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STANLEY AND KALULU. 




HOW I FOUND 



LIVING-STONE 



TRAVKLS, ADVENTURES. AND DISCOVERIES IN 
CENTRAL AFRICA 



INCLUDING AN ACCOUNT OF 



FOUR MONTHS' RESIDENCE WITH DR. LIVINGSTONE 



BY 

HENRY M. STANLEY 



WITH MAPS AND ILLUSTRATIONS AFTER DRAWINGS BY 
THE AUTHOR 



NEW YORK 

CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS 

1902 



'\ 



-5-' .\o 



3<> 



<K 



\ 



B>t«*d according to act of Congress, In the year IS^-i bn- 

»0H1B^'ER, ARMSTRO^TG & CO., 

iQ Uie Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washinifiofi. 



sn^^ 



" 






TO 

JAMES GOKDON BENNETT, ESQ. 

(PROrUIKTOR OF THE "NEW YOKK HEKAI.O.'') 

J Ills RECORD OF 
THE EXPEDITION SENT IN SEARCH OF DOCTOR IJVTNGSTONE 

AND OF 

TRAVELS. ADVENTURES. AND DISOOVERILS IN CEXIKAL AFRICA, 

AS A TRIBUTE 

rO TUE GENEROSITY AND THE LIBERALITY WHICH ORIGINATED, SUSTAINED 
AND CROWNED THE ENTERPRISE, 

BY HIS GRATEFUL SPECIAL CORRESPONDENT, 

HENRY M. STANLEY, 

LAtM OOMMAKDEJi "NEW VOKK HEliAi.I>" EXPEDITIOK 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER L 

ZANZIBAR. 



Arrival at Zanzibar — Reception by Captain Webb, U.S. Consul — 
Life at Zanzibar — System of Trade with the Interior — The town 
of Zanzibar — Population — Introduction to Dr. Kirk— Bishop 
Tozer Pages 1 to 20 



CHAPTER II. 
ORGANIZATION OF THE EXPEDITION. 

Difficulty of obtaining information — Engagement of J. W. Shaw 
and W. L. Farquhar — Mbarak Bombay — Visit to the Sultan's 
Palace — Embarkation for Bagamoyo — Courtesy and Character 
of the Sultan Pages 21 to 40 

CHAPTER III. 
BAGAMOYO. 

Arrival at Bagamoyo — Hospitality of the Jesuit Mission — Lite 
at Bagamoyo — Ali bin Salim — Dishonest Prowlers — Donkey 
stolen — Packing the Bales — Difficulty in procuring Pagazis — 
Cost of Carriage and Goods — Soor Hadji Palloo — His pecca- 
dilloes—Visit to the Livingstone Caravan — Arrival at Bagamoyo 
of Dr. Kirk — Climate of Bagamoyo — Departure of the Five 
Caravans ....... Pages 41 to 68 



^li CONTENTS, 

CHAPTEK IV. 

THROUGH UKWERE, UKAMI, AND UDOE, TO USEGUHHA. 

AiTival at first Camp, " Shamba Gonera " — The Valley of the 
I{jngani — Building Bridge across the Kiugani — The crossing — 
Peppering Hippopotami — Arrival at Kikoka — Eoute never 
travelled by a White Man — Eosako, the Frontier Village of 
Uk-nere- Impiu^tin(nt Curiosity of the Wagogo — My Watch- 
dog "Omar" — T'le Iisect Tribe — Tlf Tsetse Fly— The 
Chut wa Fly: its voracity — Commencement of the Masika, or 
Rainy Season — Death of Arab Horse — Interview with Chief of 
Kingaru— Death of Bay Horse — March to Imbiki — Arrival at 
Msuwa — Jungle troubles — Chained Slave-gang — Kisemo — The 
Belles of Kisemo — Desertion of Khamesi : his punishment — 
Crossing the Ungerengeri — The Capital, Useguhha Simba- 
mwenni — The Sultana — Stormy Dispute with Shaw — African 
Ague — Visit from the Sultana . . . Pages 69 to 12C 

CHAPTER V. 

TO UGOGO. 

The Rainy Season — Innumerable Hosts of Creeping Things — Cross- 
ing the Ungerengeri — The Flogging of Bunder Salaam : he is 
Lost : his Discovery — Soldiers imprisoned by the Sultana— The 
Makata Wilderness — Desertion and Capture of Soldier — Terri- 
ble Difficulties in crossing the Makata Swamp — Encampment 
at Usagara — Shaw's Letter to Farquhar — Farquliar's Reply— 
His extravagant Expenditure — Shaw's Dilatoriness — Novel 
mode of using a Cart — Lake Ugombo — Shaw and Farquhar at 
Breakfast — Shaw "measures his length" on the ground — 
Asks for his Discharge — He Repents — A Shot fired through my 
Tent — Farquhar left behind at Mpwapwa — Abdullah bin 
Nasib — Scenery of Mpwapwa . . . Pages 121 to 170 

CHAPTER VI. 

THROUGH MARENGA MKALI, UGOGO, UYANZl, TO UNYANYEMBK. 

Arrival at Chunyo — Bitter Water — Marenga Mkali — No Water 
for Thirty-six Hours — A Dangerous Fever attack — Arrival 



CONTENTS, Ix 

at Ugogo — Furio'is Mob — Plentiful Supplies at Mvinni — 
Tribute to the Great Sultan — The Sultan of Matamburu — 
March to Bihaw;ina — ^Whipping the Wagogo — Visit from the 
Sultan of Mizanza — The Wahumba a fine Eace — Arrival at 
Mukonduku — Departure — Counsel with Arabs as to Eoute — 
Dispute and Separation from them — They follow — Ugogo 
proves to be a Land of Gall and Bitterness — Arrival at Kiti — 
Sultan bin Mohammed — Halt at Kusuri — Thief shot — Mud- 
fsh — Uubuga in Eulis — i\.mir bin {>ulta;i — Crossing tho Mtcni 
--Arii^al ill Unyanyeoabe • . • • PagQj 171 to 212 



CHAPTER VII. 

GEOGRAPHICAL AND ETHNOGRAPHICAL REMARKS. 

Pages 223 to 257 



CHAPTER VIII. 

LIFE IN UNYANYEMBE. 

Hospitality of the Governor, Sayd bin Salim — Comfortable 
Quarters — Tabora, the principal Arab Settlement — Mirambo, 
Chief of Uyoweh — His Depredations — A Council of "War — The 
Livingstone Caravan found — Terrible attack of Fever — March 
for Ujiji — Arrival at Masangi — Shaw taken 111— Join the Arab 
Army at Mfuto — Fi^ht with Mirambo — Capture of the Village 
of Zimbizo — Fever again — Defeat and great Slaughter of the 
Arabs by Mirambo — Retreat to Mfuto . . Pages 258 to 286 

CHAPTER IX. 

LIFE IN UNYANYEMBE, 

The Arabs Retreat to Tabora — I proceed — Arrival at Kwihara — 
Try another Eoute — My Position most Serious — Death of 
Farquhar reported — Defeat of the Arabs at Tabora — Khamis 
bin Abdullah slain — Tabora in Flames — Preparations for 
Defence — The Philosopher Sheikh bin Nasib — I determine to 
lead a Flying Caravan to Ujiij — Death of Baruti — Men dis- 
pirited — The little Boy Kalulu — His baptism — Mirambo 
attacks Mfuto, and is defeated — Selim Delirious from constant 
Fevers — Two Guides, Asmani and Mabruki — My Eesolution to 
find Livingstone Pages 287 to 809 



I CONTENTS. 

CHAPTEK X. 

TO WRERA, UKONONGO. 

Start from Kwiliara — Bombay gets a Thrashing — Shaw wishes to 
stay behind — I compel him to go on — Another Fever attack 
— Livingstone's Letter-carrier missing — Arrival at Kasegera — 
Shaw gives in, and is sent back to Kwihara — The splendid 
Forests of Unyamwezi — We reach Ugnnda — The Mukungnru — 
Description of this Fever — A magnificent Sycamore — A Victim 
to Small-pox — Numerous Skeletons found on the Eoad-side — 
Arrival at Manyara — Dispute as to Tribute with the Sultan — 
Visit from him — A Dose of Concentrated Ammonia — The 
Sultan's Astonishment — The Hunter's Paradise — My first Game, 
an Antelope shot — Zebra-stalking — Adventure with a Croco- 
dile — Two Days' Hunting — Mutiny — Asmani and Mabruki 
present their Guns at me — Peace restored — Bombay Thrashed 
again, and put in Chains — Characters of the Principal Men — 
Arrival at Ziwani — The Honey-Bird — Utende — Mwaru — 
Arrival at Mrera — Shoe-mending . , • Pages 310 to 360 



. CHAPTEE XL 

THROUGH UKAWENDL, UVINZA, AND UHHA, TO UJIJI. 

Departure from Mrera — Camp in the Jungle — I sink to my 
Neck in the Ooze of the Eungwa — The Mpokwa Eiver — The 
Home of the Lion first seen — A Troop of Monkeys — Adventure 
with a huge Wild Boar — Followed by a Lion — A Day of great 
Troubles — A Buffalo shot — A Leopard — Buffalo-stalking — 
Famine stares us in the face — Welled Nzogera's — Food plentiful 
— A Donkey sinks in the Morass — Embassy to Chief Kiala — 
Seven Hours of Talk — On the Banks of the Malagarazi — Our 
Donkey " Simba " seized and carried away by a Crocodile — 
News or Livingstone! — Halt at Kawanga — Disputes about 
Tribute — Exorbitant Demands — We cross the Pombwe and 
the Kanengi Eivers — A Midnight March through the Jungle — 
A Crazy Woman almost betrays us by yelling — Thunder from 
the Tanganika — On the Banks of the Eugufu — Niamfaga — 
The Tanganika! Hurrah! Unfurl the Flags ! — Susi, Dr. Living- 
stone's Servant, says, " Good-morning, Sir !" — " Dr. Living- 
BTONE, I PRESUME ?" " Tes \" — CoHversation with the Doctor 
^Good-tight Pages 361 to 419 



CONTENTS. iJ 

CHAPTER XIL 
INTERCOURSE WITH LIVINGSTONE AT UJIJI. 

Summary from my Note-book of Livingstone's Travels 

Pages 420 to 474 

CHAPTER XIIL 

OUR CRUISE ON THE TANGANIKA. 

Oni Ship, a cranky Canoe — Enormous Dog-nosed Monkey — 
The Fishermen of the Tanganika — The Zassi River and 
Tillage — Soundings of the Lake — Nyabigma Island — Disturbed 
at Supper — Hostility of the Natives — War between Mukamba 
and Warumashanya — A Mgwana asserts that the Rusizi flows out 
of the Lake — I am struck down by Fever — Nursed by the 
Doctor — The Mgwana's Report contradicted by Mukamba — 
Swarms of Crocodiles — Ruhinga's Information — The Head of 
the Lake and the Mouth of the Rusizi — The Question, Was the 
Rusizi an Effluent or Influent, answered for ever — The Doctor 
still believes in an Outlet — Burton and Speke's Extreme Point 
— Signs of Disturbance in Mruta's Village — " New York Herald 
Islets " — Cape Luvumba — A Fight about to Commence — The 
Sultan Pacified — A serio-comic Scene — Return to Ujiji 

Pages 476 to 515 

CHAPTER XIV. 

GEOGRAPHICAL AND ETHNOGRAPHICAL REMARKS. 

Pages 516 to 567 

CHAPTER XV. 

OUR JOURNEY TO UNYANYEMBEL 

Chat with Livingstone over the Licidents of the " Pic-nic ** — The 
Doctor declines to return Home until his Work is done — 
Blames Dr. Kirk for sending him Slaves, and commanding 
them to bring him back — Recovery of his Enfield Rifles — The 
Doctor resolves to accompany me to Unyanyembe — Attack oC 
Remittent Fever— How we spent Christmas-day— Departure 
from Ujiji — Our Voyage down the Tanganika — Arrival at, and 
crossing the Liuche — Crossing the Malagarazi — ^No Current in 
the Tanganika — Arrival at Urimba — Zebra-shooting — The 
Valley of Loajeri — Bufialo Cow shot — Confronting an Elephant 
— Travellers* Tales — Red-bearded Monkeys— Magdala sighted 



xi! CONTENTS. 

—The Valley of Imrera — The Doctor foot-sore — Herds of 
Game in Mpokwa Plain — Two Zebras shot — A Herd of Giraffe 
— Giraffe wounded — Ibrahim's Slave Ulimengo absconds — 
Latitude of Mpokwa — Zinc Canteens converted into Bullets — 
Giraffe brought down therewith — Start for Misonghi — The 
Doctor dreadfully Stung by Wild Bees — Mirambo famished — 
Death of Shaw — Incidents in the Career and Death of Robert 
Livingstone — A Lion in the Grass— A Triplet of Lions — 
Arrival at Ugunda — Oaptire of tho Deserter, Hamdallah— • 
Arrival at Unyaiyembe . . • . Pagej 558 to 607 

CHAPTER XVL 
HOMEWARD BOUND. 

Livingstone's Stores opened — Found to be a Delusion — Asmani 
found Guilty — White Ants consuming the Brandy and replac- 
ing the Corks ! — The Goods turned over to Dr. Livingstone — 
He writes his Letters home — His Letter to James G. Bennett 
—Native Song — Last Night with Livingstone — His Journal 
sealed up — Our final Departure — Farewell — Halt at Tura — 
Letters from the Doctor — Arrival at Kiwyeh — Wagogo War 
Horns sounding everywhere — Full Fighting Costume — A false 
Alarm— Khonze Chief resists our Advance — Preparation for a 
Fight — Mnyamwezi seized by the Throat, and Peace restored — 
Arrival at Kanyenyi— Visit from the Sultan — The Village of 
Mapanga— Sudden Rush of Armed Natives— Forty Spears 
against Forty Guns — ^^Tribute Demanded and Paid — Leucole's 
Account of Farquhar's Death— The Valley of the Mukondokwa 
— Privation from the Masika — Awful Floods — Fighting Swarms 
of Mosquitoes — The Doctor's Despatch-Box in Jeopardy — 
Dragged through the River by Ropes — Arrival at Simba- 
mwenni —The Wall swept away — Terrific Storm — Destruction 
of One Hundred Villages — The Msunva Jungle — Its Horrors— 
"Hot-water " Ants — News from Zanzibar — Arrival at Bagamoyo 
— The meeting with the Livingstone Search and Relief Expe- 
dition ..,•••• Pages 608 to 657 

CHAPTER XVIL 
VALEDICTORY • . . . . , • • Pages 658 to 692 



APPENDIX . Pages 693 to 719 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 



<^ull-page |lIustratioits. 

t. Portrait of James Gordon Bennett, Esq. 

2. A VIEW OF Zanzibar 

3. A VIEW OF Bagamoyo 

4. Simbamwenni — "The Lion City* 

5. Discomforts of African travel— Tue Makata 

Swamp .... 

6. Shaw's mode of marching 

7. 'J he Lake and Peak of Ugumdo 

8. Mount Kidwe, and the Valley of the Mukon- 

dokwa J'iver . 

9. We attack Mirambo , • 

10. View of Kwihara 

11. Ma-manyara takes medicine 

12. The mutiny on the Gomi>e Eiver 

13. Ski.im, the Intkrpueter 

14. The wounded boar comes to a halt 

15. "Dr. Livingstone, I presume?" 

16. Our lev^e at Magala, Urundi 

17. At the mouth of the Kuslzi 

' il'ot-pourri — arms, implements, and pipes 
19. ) 

20. Dr. Livingstone at work on his journal 

21. On Lakk Tanganika— homeward bound 

22. " He is shot ! He is shot !" — shooting a buf- 

falo cow ..... 

23. A surprise 

24. A lion in the grass 

25. Mv HOUSE IN Kwihara, Unyanyembe 

26. The Wagogo on the war path 

27. Symptoms of a fight . 

28. " Look out 1 You drop that box — Fll shoot 

you" • 



to face Introduct 
to lace lage 



at pages 544 and 
to face page 



ION. 

3 
41 
115 

135 
1^2 
154 

245 
280 
310 
334 
345 
352 
371 
412 
494 
504 

545 

563 
567 

577 

680 
602 

ei2 

632 
636 

64:^ 



Smaller |Ilnstralions. 

1. View of Bagamoyo 

2. Portrait of Bombay and Mabruki • 

3. Woman gsindisg cobn . . • 



41 

69 

106 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS, 



4. Portrait of Shaw and Farquhab 

5. Our camp at Chunyo 

6. Mgogo man and woman . , 

7. a gate of a village , , 
6. wsapons of war 
9. Youthful Wasagara . , 

10. Bird's-eye view of a tembe 

11. View in front of my tembe , 

12. Group of Wanyamwezi . , 

13. Gigantic sycamore and camp . 

14. View in Uvinza 

15. Village in Uzavira — native pottery 

16. Our house in Ujiji 

17. View on Lake Tanganika 

18. Susi, the servant of Livingstone 

19. Ujiji cow, Unyamwezi cow, pariah dog, and 

20. The fishes of the '1'anganika . 

21. An idol ..... 

22. Daggers and spear-heads , 

23. Our camp at Urimba . , 

24. Making the most of a halt , 

25. The Memorial 



fat-tailed 



sheep 



PAGE 

121 
171 
223 

239 
242 
248 
253 
258 
287 
328 
361 
367 
420 
475 
499 
616 
532 
552 
556 
558 
609 
719 



Map of Eastern Central Africa — Frontispiece. 

Plan of Central Unyanyembe to face page 259. 

Plan of water system in page 229. 

Sketch map of Livingstone's discoveries to face page 449. 

Survey of northern half of Tanganika to face page 475. 

Small sketch map of Livingstone's discoveries to face page 1. 



EERATA. 

la^e Wini for read 

•29 et passinif line 25, &c. . Syed ...... Seyd. 

41 plate Bap^omoyo ..... Bacfamoyo, 

G^, 63 passim O'Reilly Reilly. 

tdl et passim, line 13, <tc. . Sarmian . ... Sarmean. 

142 29 baughy banghy. 

1G6 19 quahary Kwaheri. 

171 10 (col. 1) .... Manieka Munieka. 

237 20 representations . . . representatives, 

245 plate ..••.. MukandokAWi .... Mukondokwa. 

259 23 ..»•.. . Nghema Ngema. 

330 18 . . • • • . . stamped tamped. 

841 33 O'Reilly Reilly. 

370 33 its his 

g83 2G beasts reptiles. 

g91 6 has not spoken . . . has spoken. 

C08 3* • • • . • • insert ^* of at beginning of line. 




JAHES GOKDON BENNETT, ESQ. 
Propnetor of the ''New York Herald:' 



mTRODUCTORY. 



On" the sixteentli day of October, in the year of our 
Lord one thousand eight hundred and sixty-nine, I am in 
Madrid, fresh from the carnage at Valencia. At 10 a.m. 
Jacopo, at No. — Calle de la Cruz, hands me a telegram : 
on opening it I find it reads, " Come to Paris on 
important business." The telegram is from Jas. Gordon 
Bennett, jun., the young manager of the " New York 
Herald." 

Down come my pictures from the walls of my apart- 
ments on the second floor ; into my trunks go my 
books and souvenirs, my clothes are hastily collected, 
some half washed, some from the clothes-line half dry, 
and after a couple of hours of hasty hard work my 
portmanteaus are strapped up, and labelled for " Paris." 

The express-train leaves Madrid for Hendaye at 
3 P.M. I have yet time to say farewell to my friends. 
I have one at No. 6 Calle Goya, fourth floor, who 
happens to be a contributor to several London dailies. 
lie has several children, in whom 1 have taken a warm 



xri INTRODUCTORY, 

interest. Little Charlie and Willie are fast friends of 
mine ; they love to hear of my adventures, and it has 
been a pleasure to me to talk to them. But now I 
must say farewell. 

Then I have friends at the United States Legation 
whose conversation I admire — there has come a sudden 
ending of it all. " I hope you will write to us, we 
shall always be glad to hear of your welfare." How 
often have I not during my feverish life as a flying 
journalist heard the very same words, and how often 
have I not suffered the same pang at parting from 
fj'iends just as warm as these. 

But a journalist in my position must needs suffer. 
Like a gladiator in the arena, he must be prepared foi 
the combat. Any flinching, any cowardice, and he is 
lost. The gladiator meets the sword that is sharpened 
for his bosom — tlie flying journalist or roving corre- 
spondent meets the command that may send him to 
his doom. To the battle or the banquet it is ever the 
s>une — " Get ready and go." 

At 3 P.M. I was on my way, and being obliired to 
stop at Bayonne a few hours, did not arrive at Paris 
until the following night. I went straight to the 
** Grand Hotel," and knocked at the door of Mr. 
Bennett's room. 

** Come in," I heard a voice say. 

Entering, I found Mr. Bennett in bed. 

" Who are you ?" he asked. 

" My name is Stanley!" I answered. 



INTRODUCTORY. xvil 

" All, yes ! sit down ; I have important business on 
hand for you." 

After throwing over his shoulders his robe-de-chambre, 
Mr. Bennett asked, " Where do you think Living- 
stone is ?" 

" I really do not know, sir !" 

" Do you think he is alive ?'* 

" He may be, and he may not bo !" I answered. 

*' Well, I think he is alive, and that he can be found, 
and I am going to send you to find him." 

*' What !" said I, " do you really think I can find Dr. 
Livingstone ? Do you mean me to go to Central Africa ?" 

" Yes ; I mean that you shp.ll go, and find him 
wherever you may hear that he is, and to get vvhat 
news you can of him, and perhaps'* — delivering himse.f 
thoughtfully and deliberately — '^ the old man may be in 
want : — take enough with you to help him should he 
require it. Of course you will act according to your 
own plans, and do what you think best — but find 
Livingstone! 

Said I, wondering at the cool order of sending one 
to Central Africa to search for a man whom I, in 
common with almost all other men, believed to be dead, 
'* have you considered seriously the great expense you 
are likely to incur on account of this little journey ?" 

" What will it cost ?" he asked, abruptly. 

" Burton and Speke*s journey to Central Africa cost 
between £3,000 and £5,000, and I fear it cannot be 
done under £2,500." 



xviii INTRODUCTORY. 

" Well, I will tell you what you will do. Draw a 
thousand pounds now ; and when you have gone 
through that, draw another thousand, and when that 
is spent, draw another thousand, and when you have 
finished that, draw another thousand, and so on ; but, 
FIND Livingstone. 

Surprised but not confused at the order, for I knew 
that Mr. Bennett when once he had made up his mind 
was not easily drawn aside from his purpose, I yet 
thought, seeing it was such a gigantic scheme, that he 
had not quite considered in his own mind the pros and 
cons of the case ; I said, " I have heard that should 
your father die you would sell the ' Herald ' and retire 
from business." 

'' Whoever told you that is wrong, for there is not 
money enough in New York city to buy the ' New 
York Herald.' My father has made it a great paper, 
but I mean to make it greater. I mean that it shall be 
a news paper in the true sense of the word. I mean 
that it shall publish whatever news will be interesting 
to the world at no matter what cost." 

" After that," said I, " I have nothing more to say. 
Do you mean me to go straight on to Africa to search 
for Dr. Livingstone ?" 

" No ! I wish you to go to the inauguration of the 
Suez Canal first and then proceed up the Nile. I hear 
Baker is about starting for Upper Egypt. Find out 
what you can about his expedition, and as you go up 
describe as well as possible whatever is interesting for 



INTBODUCTORY. xix 

tourists ; and tlien write up a guide — a practical one — 
for Lower Egypt, tell us about whatever is worth 
seeing and how to see it. 

" Then you might as well go to Jerusalem ; I hear 
Captain Warren is making some interesting discoveries 
there. Then visit Constantinople, and find out about 
that trouble between the Khedive and the Sultan. 

"Then— let me see — you might as well visit the 
Crimea and those old battle-giounds. Then go across 
the Caucasus to the Caspian Sea, I hear there is a 
Eussian expedition bound for Khiva. From thence 
you may get through Persia to India ; you could write 
an interesting letter from Fersepolis. 

" Bagdad will be close on your way to India ; suppose 
you go there, and write up something about the Eu- 
phrates Yalley Railway. Then, when you have come 
to India, you can go after Livingstone. Probably you 
will hear by that time that Livingstone is on his way 
to Zanzibar ; but if not, go into the interior and find 
him, if alive. Get what news of his discoveries you 
can ; and, if you find he is dead, bring all possible 
proofs of his being dead. That is all. Good-night, 
and God be with you." 

" Good-night, sir," I said ; " what it is in the power 
of human nature to do I will do ; and on such an errand 
as I go upon, God will be with me." 

I lodged with young Edward King, who is making 
such a name in New England. He was just the man 
who would have delighted to tell the Journal he waa 



XX INTRODUCTORY. 

engaged upon what young Mr. Bennett was doing, and 
what errand I was bound upon. 

I should have liked to exchange opinions with him 
upon the probable results of my journey, but I dared 
not do so. Though oppressed with tbe great task 
before me, I had to appear as if only going to be 
present at the Suez Canal. Young King followed me 
to the express- train bound for Marseilles, and at the 
station we parted — he to go, and read the newspapers 
at Bowles' Reading-room— I to Central Africa and — 
who knows ? 

There is no need to recapitulate what I did before 
going to Central Africa. 

I went up the Nile, and s^v7 Mr. Higginbotha-H, 
chief-engineer in Baker's Expedition, at Philae, and 
was the means of prev^enting a duel between him and a 
mad young Fienchman, who wanted to fight Mr. Hig- 
ginbotham with pistols, because that gentleman re- 
sented the idea of being taken for an Egyptian, through 
wearing a fez cap. I had a talk with Capt. Warren 
at Jerusalem, and descended one of the pits with a 
sergeant of engineers to see the marks of the Tyrian 
workmen on the foundation stones of the Temple of 
Solomon. I visited the mosques of Stamboul with 
the Minister Resident of the United States, and the 
American Consul General. I travelled over the 
Crimean battle-grounds with Kinglake's glorious books 
for reference in my hand. I dined with tbe widow of 
General Liprandi at Odessa. I saw the Arabian 



INTRODUCTORY, xxi 

traveller Palgrave at TrebizoPid, and Bnroii Nicolay, 
the Civil Governor of the Caucasus, at Tiflis. I lived 
with the Russian Ambassador while at Teheran, and 
wherever I went through Persia I received the most 
hospitable welcome from the gentlemen of the Indo- 
Earopean Telegraph Company ; and following the 
examples of many illustrious men, I wrote my name 
apon one of the Persepolitan monuments. In the 
month of August, 1870, I arrived i^i India. 

On the 12th of October I sailed on the barque 
" Polly " from Bombay to Mauritius. As the " Polly " 
was a slow sailer,- the passage lasted &irty-seven days. 
On board this barqus was a William Lawrence 
Farquhar— hailing f^xm Leith, Scotland — in the ca- 
pacity of first-mate. He was an excellent navigator, 
and thinking he might be useful to ma, I employed 
him ; his pay to begin from the date we should leave 
Zanzibar for Bagamoyo. As there was no opportunity 
of getting to Zanzibar direct, I took ship to Seychelles. 
Three or four days after arriving at Mahe, one of the 
Seychelles group, I was fortunate enough to get a 
passage for myself, William Lawrence Farquhar, and 
Selim — a Christian Arab boy of Jerusalem, who was to 
act as interpreter — on board an American whaling 
vessel, bound for Zanzibar, at which port we arrived 
on the 6th of January, 1871. 

I have skimmed over my travels thus far, because 
these do not concern the reader. They led over many 
lands, but this book is only a narrative of my search 



xxil INTRODUCTORY 

after Livingstone, the great African traveller. It is 
an Icarian flight of journalism, I confess; some even 
have called it Quixotic ; but this is a word I can now 
refute, as will be seen before the reader arrives at the 
" Finis." 

I have used the word " soldiers " in this book. The 
armed escort a traveller engages to accompany him 
into East Africa is composed of free black men, natives 
of Zanzibar, or freed slaves from the interior, who call 
themselves " askari," an Indian name which, translated, 
means '' soldiers." They are armed and equipped like 
soldiers, though they engage themselves also as ser- 
vants ; but it would be more pretentious in me to call 
them servants^ than to use the word '* soldiers ;" and 
as I have been more in the habit of calling them 
soldiers, than my watuma — servants — this habit has 
proved too much to be overcome. I have therefore 
allowed the word " soldiers " to appear, accompanied, 
however, with this apology, 

I have also used the personal pronoun first person 
singular, " I," oftener, perhaps, than real modesty would 
admit. 

But it must be remembered that 1 am writing a 
narrative of my own adventures and travels, and that 
until I meet Livingstone, I presume the greatest interest 
is attached to myself, my marches, my troubles, my 
thoughts, and my impressions. Yet though I may 
sometimes write, " my expedition," or **my caravan," 
it by no means follows that I arrogate to myself this 



INTRODUCTORY. xxiii 

right. For it must be distinctly understood that it is 
the " * New York Herald ' Expedition," and that I am 
only charged with its command by Mr. James Gordon 
Bennett, the proprietor of the ' New York Herald,' as 
a salaried employe of that gentleman. 

One thing more ; I have adopted the narrative form 
of relating the story of the search, on account of the 
greater interest it appears to possess over the diary 
form, and I think that in this manner I avoid the great 
fault of repetition for which some travellers have been 
severely criticised. 

Having explained so much, I do not think it neces- 
sary to say any more in the Introduction, and shall 
therefore commence my narrative. 

HENRY M. STANLEY. 



8, Duchess Street, Portland Flaoe^ London, 
Odd)er, 1872. 



.yeT6t-< 



S.ier<*: 




HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 



CHAPTER I. 

ZANZIBAR. 



One of the fruitfulest islands of the Indian Ocean is 
Zanzibar. When I left Bombay for the purpose of 
leading the ' New York Herald ' expedition into the 
unknown heart of Africa, my abstract conception of the 
island was that it was but a little better than a great 
sandbar, or a patch of Sahara, with a limited oasis or two, 
surrounded by the sea, rife with cholera, fever, and 
nameless but dreadful diseases ; populated by ignorant 
blacks, with great thick lips, whose general appearance 
miglii be compared to Du Chaillu's gorillas, who were 
ruled over by a despotic and surly Arab. 

How it had become thus distorted in my imagina- 
tion I cannot conceive. I had read books and articles 
on Zanzibar, which were by no means unfavourably 
disposed towards it, yet it floated in my brain as an 
island whose total submersion in the sea would benefit 
the world. I am not certain, but I think I caught the 
idea from Capt. Burton's 'Lake Eegions of Central 
Africa,' along with many other eccentric ideas. The 
whole book, although wonderfully clever and truthful, 

B 



2 HOW I FO UND LI VI NG STONE. 

is somewhat bilious in tone, and I think its effect was 
manifest in me by a rush of a part of its bile into my 
head, for while I read it I saw a lethal stream, which 
drifted with me towards the eternal feverish region of 
Africa, from which a sickening presentiment said there 
was no return. But hail ! to the blessed dawn that 
dispels the dreadful dream under which you groaned in 
agony throughout the night. Hail ! to the letter that 
brings good news, and hail ! to the verdant shores of 
Zanzibar, that said to me^ " Hope ; things are seldom 
so bad as they are painted." 

It was in the early morning tliat I sailed through 
the channel that separates Zanzibar from Africa. The 
high lands of the continent loomed like a lengthening 
shadow in the grey of dawn. The island lay on our 
left, distant but a mile, coming out of its shroud of 
foggy folds, bit by bit as the day advanced, until it 
finally rose clearly into view, as fair in appearance as 
the fairest of the gems of creation. It appeared low, 
but not flat ; there were gentle elevations cropping 
hither and yon above the languid but graceful tops of 
the cocoa-trees that lined the margin of the island, and 
there were depressions visible at agreeable intervals, to 
indicate where a cool gloom might be found by those 
who sought relief from a hot sun. With the excep- 
tion of the thin line of sand, over which the sap-green 
water rolled itself with a constant murmur and moan, 
the island seemed buried under one deep stratum of 
verdure. 

The noble bosom of the strait bore several dhowS; 
speeding in and out of the bay of Zanzibar with bellying 
sails. Towards the south, above the sea line of the 
horizon, there appeared the naked masts of several 
large ships, and to the east of these a dense mass of 



J. 4. 1871.] ZANZIBAR. 3 

w/iite, flat- topped houses. This was Zanzibar, the 
capital of the island ; — which soon resolved itself into a 
pretty large and compact city, with all the characteristics 
of Arab architecture. Above some of the largest houses 
lining the bay front of the city streamed the blood-red 
bannci* of the Sultan, Syed Burghash, and the flags of the 
Americiin, English, North German Confederation, and 
French Consulates. In the harbor were thirteen large 
ships, four Zanzibar men-of-war, one English man-of- 
war — the " Nymphe," two American, one French, one 
Portuguese, two English, and two German merchantmen, 
besides numerous dhows hailing from Johanna and 
Mayotte of the Comoro Islands, dhows from Muscat and 
Cutch — traders between India, the Persian Gulf, and 
Zanzibar. 

It was with the spirit of true hospitality and courtesy 
that Capt. Francis R. Webb, United States Consul, 
(formerly of the United States Navy,) received me. 
Had this gentleman not rendered me such needful 
service, I must have condescended to take board and 
lodging at a house known as " Charley's," called after 
the proprietor, who is a Frenchman with a crooked 
nose, and withal very eccentric, who has won con- 
siderable local notoriety for harboring penniless itine- 
rants, and manifesting a kindly spirit always, though 
hidden under such a rugged front ; or I should have 
been obliged to pitch my doubled- clothed American 
drill tent on the sandbeach of this tropical island, 
an in-no-wise desirable thins:. 

But Capt. Webb's opportune proposal to make his 
commodious and comfortable house my own ; to enjoy 
myself, with the request that I would call for whatever 
I might require, obviated all unpleasant alternatives. 

One day's life at Zanzibar, made me thoroughly 

B 2 



4 ROW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

conscious of my ignorance respecting African people 
and things in general. I imagined I had read Burton 
and Speke through, fairly well, and that consequently 
I had penetrated the meaning, the full importance and 
grandeur, of the work I was about to be engaged upon. 
But my estimates, for instance, based upon book in- 
formation, were simply ridiculous, — fonciful images of 
African attractions were soon dissipated, anticipated 
pleasures vanished, and all crude ideas began to resolve 
themselves into shape. 

I strolled through the city. My general impressions 
are of crooked, narrow lanes, white-washed houses, 
mortar-plastered streets, in the clean quarter ; — of seeing 
alcoves on each side, with deep recesses, with a fore- 
ground of red-turban ed Banyans, and a back-ground of 
flimsy cottons, prints, calicoes, domestics and what 
not ; or of floors crowded with ivory tusks ; or of dark 
corners with a pile of unginned and loose cotton ; or 
of stores of crockery, nails, cheap Brummagem ware, 
tools, &c., in what I call the Banyan quarter ; — of streets 
smelling very strong — in fact, exceedingly malodorous, 
with steaming yellow and black bodies, and woolly 
heads, sitting at the doors of miserable huts, chatting, 
laughing, bargaining, scolding, with a compound smell 
of hides, tar, filth, vegetable refuse, excrement, &c., in the 
negro quarter ; — of streets lined with tall, solid looking 
houses, flat roofed, of gi'eat carved doors with large 
brass knockers, with baabs* sitting cross-legged watch- 
ing the dark entrance to their masters' houses ; of a 
shallow sea-inlet, with some dhows, canoes, boats, an odd 
steam-tug or two, leaning over on their sides in a sea 
of mud which the tide has just left behind it ; of 
a place called *' Nazi-Moya,*' " One Cocoa-tree," whither 

* Porters. 



Jan. 1871.] ZANZIBAR. 6 

Europeans wend on evenings with raost languid, mori- 
bund steps, to inhale the sweet air that glides over 
the sea, while the day is dying, and the red sun is 
sinking westward ; of a few graves of dead sailors, who 
paid the forfeit of their lives upon arrival in this land ; of 
a tall house wherein lives Dr. Tozer, " Missionary Bisliop 
of Central Africa," and his school of little Africans; 
and of many otiier things, which got together into such 
a tangle, that I had to go to sleep, lest I should never 
be able to separate the moving images, the Arab from 
the African ; the African from the Banyan ; the Banyan 
from tlie Hindi ; the Hindi from the European, &c. 

Zanzibar is the Bagdad, the Ispahan, the Stamboul, 
if you like, of East Africa. It is the great mart which 
invites the ivory traders from the African interior. To 
this market come the gum-copal, the hides, the or- 
chilla, the timber, and the black slaves from Africa. 
Bagdad had great silk bazaars, Zanzibar has her ivory 
bazaars ; Bagdad once traded in jewels, Zanzibar trades 
in gum-copal ; Stamboul imported Circassian and Geor- 
gian slaves ; Zanzibar imports black beauties from 
Uhiyow, Ugindo, Ugogo, Unyamwezi and Galla. 

The same mode of commerce obtains here as in all 
Mohammedan countries — nay, the mode was in vogue 
long before Moses was born. The Arab never changes. 
He brought the custom of his forefathers with him when 
he came to live on this island. He is as much of an Arab 
here, as at Muscat or Bagdad ; wherever he goes to live, 
he carries with him his harem, his religion, his long robe, 
his shirt, his watta,* and his dagger. If he penetrates 
Africa, not all the ridicule of the negroes can make 
him change his modes of life. Yet the land has not 
become Oriental ; the Arab has not been able to change 

* Slippers. 



8 EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, 

the atmosphere. The land is semi- African in aspect ; 

the city is but semi-Arabian. 

To a new-com>ir into Africa, the Muscat Arabs of 
Zanzibar are studies. There is a certain empressement 
about them, which we must admire. They are mostly 
all travellers. There are but few of them, that have 
not been in many dangerous positions, as they pene- 
trated Central Africa in search of the precious ivory ; 
and these, with their various experiences, have given 
their features a certain unmistakeable air of self- 
reliance, or of self-sufficiency ; there is a calm, resolute, 
defiant, independent air about them, which wins un- 
consciously one's respect. The stories that some of 
these men could tell, I have often thought would fill 
many a book of thrilling adventures. 

For the half-castes I have great contempt. They 
are neither black nor white, neither good nor bad, 
neither to be admired nor hated. They are all things, 
at all times, they are always fawning on the great 
Arabs, and always cruel to those unfortunates brought 
under their yoke. If I saw a miserable, half-starved 
negro, I was always sure to be told, he belonged to a 
half-caste. Cringing and hypocritical, cowardly and 
debased, treacherous and mean, I have always found 
him. He seems to be for ever ready to fall down and 
worship a rich Arab, but is relentless to a poor black 
slave. When he swears most, you may be sure he lies 
most, and yet this is the breed which is multiplied most 
at Zanizibar — this syphilitic, blear-eyed, pallid-skinned, 
abortion of an Africanized Arab. 

The Banyan is a born trader, the beau-ideal of a 
sharp money-making man. Money flows to his pockets 
as naturally as water down a steep. No pang of con- 
science will prevent him from cheating his fellow man. 



Jan. 1871.] ZAJ^ZIBAB, ■? 

He excels a Jew, and his only rival in a market is a 
Parsee ; an Arab is a babe to him. It is wortli money 
to see him labour with all his energy, soul, and body, to 
i^ei advantage by the smallest fraction of a coin over 
•^ native. Possibly the native has a tusk, and it may 
weigh a couple of frasilahs, but, though the scales 
indicate the weight, and the native declares solemnly 
that it must be more than two frasilahs, yet our Banyan 
will asseverate, and aver, and declare, and vow, that the 
native knows nothing whatever about it, and that the 
scales are wrong; he musters up courage to lift it, 
it is a mere song, not much more than a frasilah. 
'* Come," he will say, " close, man, take the money and 
go thy way. Art thou mad ?" If the native hesitates, 
he will scream in a fury ; he pushes him about, spurns 
the ivory with contemptuous indifference, — never was 
such ado about nothing ; but, though he tells the 
astounded native to be up and going, he never intends 
the ivory shall leave his shop. 

The Banyans exercise, of all other classes, most 
influence on the trade of Central Africa. With the ex- 
ception of a very few rich Arabs, almost all other traders 
are subject to the pains and penalties which usury 
imposes. A trader desirous to make a journey into 
the interior, whether for slaves or ivory, gum-copal, 
or orchilla weed, proposes to a Banyan to advance him 
$5,000 at 50, 60, or 70 per cent, interest. The Banyan 
is safe enough not to lose, whether the speculation the 
trader is engaged upon pays or not. An experienced 
trader seldom loses, or if he has been unfortunate, 
through no deed of his own, he docs not lose credit ; 
with the help of the Banyan, he is easily set on his 
feet again. 

We will suppose, for the sake of illustrating how 



8 now I FO UND LI VINO STONE. 

tiade with the interior is managed, that the Arab 
conveys by his caravan $5,000 worth of goods into 
the interior. At Unyanyembe tlie goods are v^orth 
$10,000; at Ujiji, tliey are worth $15,000: they have 
trebled in price. Five doti, oi $7*50, will purchase a 
slave in tbe markets of Ujiji that will fetch in Zanzibar 
$30*00. Ordinary men-slaves may be purchased for 
$6-00 which wouid sell f )r $25*03 on the coast. We 
will say he purchases slaves to the full extent of his 
means — after deducting $1,500 expenses of carriage to 
Ujiji and back — viz. $3,500, the slaves — 464 in number, 
at $7'50 per head — would realize $13,920 at Zanzibar! 
Again, let us illustrate trade in ivory. A merchant 
takes $5,000 to Ujiji, and after deducting $1,500 for 
expenses to Ujiji, and back to Zanzibar, has still remain- 
ing $3,500 in cloth and beads, with which he purchases 
ivory. At Ujiji ivory is bought at $20 the frasilah, or 
35 Ibs.^ by which he is enabled with $3,500 to collect 
175 frasilahs, which if good ivory is worth about $60 
per frasilah at Zanzibar. The merchant thi^s finds 
that he has realized $10,500 net profit! Arab traders 
have often done better than this, but they almost 
always have come I ack witli an enormous margin of 
profit. 

The next people to the Banyans in power in Zanzi- 
bar are the Mohammedan Hindis. Really it has been a 
debateable subject in my mind whether the Hindis are 
not as wickedly determined to cheat in trade, as the 
Banyans. But, if 1 have conceded the palm to the 
latter, it has been done very reluctantly. This tribe of 
Indians can produce scores of unconscionable rascals 
where they can show but one honest meichant. One 
of the honestest among men, white or black, red or 
yellow, is a Mohammedan Hindi called Tarya Topan. 



Jan. 187 J.] ZANZIBAR. % 

Among the Europeans at Zanzibar, he has become 
a proverb for honesty, and strict business integrity. 
He is enormously wealthy, owns several ships and 
dhows, and is a prominent man in the councils of Syed 
Burghash. Tarya lias many children, two or three 
of whom are grown-up sons, whom he has reared up 
even as he is himself. ButTaiyais but a representative 
of an exceedingly small minority. 

The Arabs, the Banyans, and the Mohammedan 
Hindis, represent the higher and the middle classes. 
These clas>ses own the estates, the ships, and the 
trade. To these classes bow the half-caste and the 
negro. 

The next most important people who go to make 
up the mixed population of this island are the negroes. 
They consist of the aborigines, Wasawahili, Somalis, 
Comorines, Wanyamwezi, and a host of tribal repi'e- 
sentatives of Inner Africa. 

To a white stranger about penetrating Africa, it is a 
most interesting walk through the negro quarters of the 
Wanyamwezi and the Wasawahili. For here he begins 
to learn the necessity of admitting that negroes are 
men, like himself, thougli of a different colour; that 
they have passions and pi'ejudices, likes and dislikes, 
sympathies and antipathies, tastes and feelings, in 
common with all liuuian nature. The sooner he per- 
ceives this fact, and adapts himself accordingly, the 
easier W\\\ be his journey among the several races of 
the interior. The more plastic his nature, the more 
prosperous will be his travels. 

Though I had lived souie time among the negroes of 
our Southern States, my education was Northern, and 
I had met in the United States black men, whom I was 
proud to call friends. I was thus prepared to admit any 



10 HOW I FOU^n LIVINGSTONE. 

black man, possessing the attributes of true manhood, 
or any good qiialities, to my friendship, even to a 
brotherhood with myself; and to resj)ect him for such, 
as much as if he were of my own colour and race. 
Neither his colour, nor any peculiarities of physiognomy 
should debar him with me from any rights he could fairly 
claim as a man. " Have these men — these black savages 
from pagan Africa," I asked myself, "the qualities 
which make man loveable among his fellows ?" " Can 
these men — these barbarians — appreciate kindness oi 
feel resentment like myself?" was my mental question 
as I travelled through their quarters and observed their 
actions. Need I say, that I was much comforted in 
observing that they were as ready to be influenced by 
passions, by loves and hates, as I was myself; that the 
keenest observation failed to detect any great difference 
between their nature and my own. 

The negroes of the island probably number two- 
thirds of the entire population. They compose the 
working-class, whether enslaved or free. Those en- 
slaved perform the work required on the plantations, 
the estates and gardens of the landed proprietors, or 
perform the work of hamals or carriers, whether in the 
country or the city. Outside the city they may be seen 
carrying huge loads on their heads, as happy as pos- 
sible, not because they are kindly treated or tliat their 
work is light, but because it is their nature to be gay 
and light-hearted, because they have conceived neither 
joys nor hopes which may not be gratified at will, nor 
cherished any ambition beyond their reach, and there- 
fore have not been baffled in their hopes, nor known 
disappointment. 

Within the city, negro hamals may be heard at all 
hours, in couples, engaged in the transportation of 



J AN. 18U0 ZANZIBAR, 1 J 

clove-bags, boxes of merchandise, &c., from store to 
" go-down " and from " go-down " to the beach, singing 
a kind of monotone chant for the encouragement of 
each other, and for the guiding of their pace as they 
shuffle through the streets with bare feet. You may 
recognise tliese men readily, before loug, as old ac- 
quaintances, by the consistency with which they sing 
the tunes they have adopted. Several times during 
a day have I lieard the same couple pass beneath the 
windows of the Consulate, delivering themselves of the 
same invariable tune and words. Some might possibly 
deem the songs foolish and silly, but they had a certain 
attraction for me, and I considered that they were as 
useful as anything else for the purposes they were 
intended. 

The town of Zanzibar, situate on the south-western 
shore of the island, contains a population of nearly one 
hundred thousand inhabitants ; that of the island alto- 
gether 1 would estimate at not more than two hundred 
thousand inhabitants, including all races. 

The greatest number of foreign vessels trading with 
this port are American, principally from New York 
and Salem. After the American come the German, 
then come the French and English. They arrive 
loaded with American sheeting, brandy, gunpowder, 
muskets, beads, English cottons, brass-wire, china-ware 
and otlier notions, and depart with ivory, gum- 
copal, cloves, hides, cowries, sesamum, pepper, and 
cocoa-nut oil. 

The value of the exports from this port is estimated 
at ?3, 000, 000, and the imports from all countries at 
$3,500,000. 

The Europeans and Americans residing in the town 
of Zanzibar are either Government officials, independent 



12 BOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

merchants, or agents for a few great mercantile houses 
in Europe and America. 

The most important consulate at Zanzibar is the 
British. The acting British Consul and political resi- 
dent, when I was at Zanzibar preparing my expedition 
for tlie African interior, was Dr. John Kirk. 

I felt quite a curiosity to see this gentleman, from 
the fact of his name being so often coupled with the 
object of my search — Dr. David Livingstone. 

In almost all newspapers he was mentioned as the 
** former companion of Dr. Livingstone." I imagined, 
from the tone of the articles that I saw published, and 
from his own lettei's to the Indian Government, that if 
I could obtain any positive information from any person 
regarding the whereabouts of Dr. Livingstone I should 
be able to procure it from Dr. Kirk. 

It was with feelings of no small impatience, therefore, 
that I awaited the honour of an introduction to him 
through Capt. Webb. 

On the second morning after my arrival at Zanzibar, 
according to the demands of Zanzibar etiquette, tlje 
American Consul and myself sallied out into the street, 
and in a few moments I was in the presence of this 
much-befamed man. To a man of rather slim figure, 
dressed plainly, slightly round-shouldered, hair black, 
face thin, cheeks rather sunk and bearded, Capt. 
Webb said, '' Dr. Kirk, permit me to introduce Mr. 
Stanley, of the * New York Herald.' " 

I fancied at the moment that he lifted his eyelids 
perceptibly, disclosing the full circle of the eyes. If I 
were to define such a look, I would call it a broad stare. 
During the conversation, which ranged over several 
subjects, though watching his face intently, I never 
Baw it kindle or become animated but once, and that 



Jan. 1871.] ZANZIBAR. 13 

was while relating some of liis hunting feats to us. 
As the subject nearest my heart was not entered 
upon, I promised myself I would ask him about 
Dr. Livingstone the next time I called upon him. 

Tuesday evenings " Dr. and Mrs. Kirk are at home/* 
Zanzibarites are informed. The pleasures of those 
evenings the civilised community of Zanzibar gene- 
rally ignore, but the representatives of the European 
colony do visit them nevertheless. This special 
evening, there was quite a " sprinkling " of the 
upper-ten-dom. 

As the American party of visitors arrived early, I 
was enabled to note how other guests entered into con- 
versation, and I wondered to hear each and all after 
the first greeting inquire anxiously of the Consul and 
his lady, if they had been to " Nazi-Moya " that evening, 
to which they responded in the negative ; for it hap- 
pened that they had not extended their recreative walk 
so far as the classic grounds of Nazi-Moya that par- 
ticular evening. 

" Oh," each guest said, in a tone of triumphal and 
delighted wonderment, " I thought I had not seen you 
there." 

*' Where, and what is Nazi-Moya?" I was fain to 
ask of Capt. Webb. 

" Nazi-Moya," said this pleasant cynic, " Nazi-Moya 
means in English, * One Cocoa-tree ;' it is a rendezvous 
just behind Ras Shangani (Sandy Point), whither we go 
on afternoons to enjoy the fresh sea-breeze. It is the 
usual form of opening a conversation, owing to the 
terrible dearth of topics just now we have to talk 
about." 

Capt. Webb spoke truly when he said there was a 
'* terrible dearth of topics," and subsequent experience 



14 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

proved to me that the good Europeans of Zanzibar, in 
the absence of legitimate matter, were never slow to 
avail themselves of the least bit of scandal, in order to 
make the evenings pleasant and agreeable. 

The entertainment which the British Consul and his 
lady provided for the visitors on their reception evening 
consists of a kind of mild wine and cigars ; not, because 
they have nothing else in the house — no decoction of 
bohea, or hyson, with a few cakes — but I suppose 
because it is the normal and accustomed habit of a free 
Zanzibarized European to indulge in something of this 
sort, mixed with a little soda or seltzer- water, as a 
stimulant to the bits of refined gossip, generally pro- 
mulgated under the vinous influence to sympathizing, 
interested, and eager listeners. 

It was all very fine, I dare say, but I thought it was 
the dreariest evening I ever passed, until Dr. Kirk, 
pitying the wearisomeness under which I was labouring, 
called me aside to submit to my inspection a magnificent 
elephant rifle, wliich he said was a present from a 
governor of Bombay. Then I heard eulogies upon its 
deadly powers and its fatal accuracy ; I heard anecdotes 
of jungle life, adventures experienced while hunting, 
and incidents of his travels with Livingstone. 

" Ah, yes. Dr. Kirk," I asked carelessly, " about 
Livingstone — where is he, do you think, now?" 

" Well, really," he replied, '^ you know that is very 
diflicult to answer ; he may be dead ; there is nothing 
positive whereon we can base sufficient reliance. Of 
one thing I am sure, nobody has heard anything definite 
of him for over two years. I should fancy, though, he 
must be alive. We are continually sending something 
up for him. There is a small expedition even now at 
Bagamoyo about starting shortly. I really think the 



Jan. 1871.] ZANZIBAB. 16 

old man should come home now ; he is growing old, you 
know, and if he died, the world would lose the benefit 
of his discoveries. He keeps neither notes nor journals ; 
it is very seldom he takes observations. He simply 
makes a note or dot, or something, on a map, which 
nobody could understand but himself. Oh, yes, by all 
means if he is alive he should come home, and let a 
younger man take his place. '^ 

" What kind of a man is he to get along with, 
Doctor ?" I asked, feeling now quite interested in his 
conversation. 

" Well^ I think he is a very difficult man to deal with 
generally. Personally, I have never had a quarrel 
with him, but I have seen him in hot water with 
fellows so often, and that is principally the reason, I 
think, he hates to have any one with him.'* 

'' I am told he is a very modest man ; is he ? " I asked. 

" Oh, he knows the value of his own discoveries ; no 
man better. He is not quite an angel," said he, with 
a laugh. 

'*Well now, supposing I met him in my travels — I 
might possibly stumble across him if he travels any- 
where in the direction I am going — how would he 
conduct himself towards me ?" 

" To tell you the truth," said he, " I do not think he 
would like it very well, I know if Burton, or Grant, 
or Baker, or any of those fellows were going after him, 
and he heard of their coming, Livingstone would put a 
hundred miles of swamp in a very short time between 
himself and them. I do, upon my word I do." 

This was the tenor of the interview I held with 
Dr. Kirk— former companion of Livingstone — as well 
as my journal and memory can recall it to me. 

Need I say this information from a gentleman known 



16 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

to be well acquainted with Dr. Livingstone, rather had 
tlie effect of damping my ardor for tlie search, than 
adding vigor to it. I felt very mnch depressed, and 
would willingly have resigned my commission ; but 
then the order was, "Go and find Livingstone." 
Besides, I did not suppose, though I had so readily 
consented to search for the Doctor, that the path tc 
Central Africa was strewn with roses. What though I 
were rebuked, as an impertinent interloper in the 
domain of Discovery, as a meddler in things that con* 
cerned not myself, as one whose absence would be far 
more acceptable to him than my presence — had I not 
been commanded to find him ? Well, find him I 
would, if he were above ground ; if not, then I would 
bring what concerned people to know, and keep. 

Dr. Kirk very kindly promised to give all the assist- 
ance in his power, and whatever experience he 
possessed he was willing, he said, to give me its full 
benefit. But I cannot recollect, neither do I find a 
trace of it in my journal, that he assisted me in any 
way. Of course, he was not aware that my instruc- 
tions were to hunt up Dr. Livingstone, otherwise Dr. 
Kirk, I have no doubt, would have made good his 
word. He believed I was about to ascend the Rufiji 
River to its source. But what newspaper would 
despatch a " special " to discover the sources of an in- 
significant river like the Rufiji? 

The climate of Zanzibar is not the most agreeable in 
the world. I have heard Americans and Europeans 
condemn it most heartily. I have also seen nearly one- 
half of the white colony laid up in one day from sick- 
ness. A noxious malaria is exhaled from the shallow 
inlet of Malagash, and the undrained filth, the garbage, 
ofiiil, dead mollusks, dead pariah dogs, dead cats, all 



Jan. 1871.] ZANZIBAR, 17 

species of carrion, remains of men and beasts unburied, 
assist to make Zanzibar a most unhealthy city ; and, 
considering that it ought to be a most healthy city^ 
nature having pointed out to man the means, and 
liaving assisted him so far^ it is most wonderful that 
the ruling prince does not obey the dictates of reason. 
The bay of Zanzibar is in the form of a crescent, and 
on the south-western horn of it is built the city. On 
the east the city is bounded almost entirely by the 
Malagash Lagoon, an inlet of the sea. It penetrates to 
at least two hundred and fifty yards of the sea behind 
or south of Shangani Point. Were these two hundred 
and fifty yards cut through by a ten foot ditch_, and the 
inlet deepened slightly, Zanzibar city would become an 
island of itself, and what wonders would it not effect as to 
health and salubrity ! I have never heard this sugges- 
tion made, but it struck me that the foreign consuls 
resident at Zanzibar might suggest this work to the 
sultan^ and so get the credit of having made the city as 
healthy a place to live in as any near the equator. But 
apropos of this, I remember what Cajjt. A\'ebb, the 
American Consul, told me on my first arrival, when I 
expressed to him my wonder at the apathy and inert- 
ness of men born with the indomitable energy which cha- 
racterizes the Europeans and Americans, of men imbued 
with the progressive and stirring instincts of tlie white 
people, who yet allow themselves to dwindle into pallid 
phantoms of their kind, into hypochondriacal invalids, 
into hopeless believers in the deadliness of the climate, 
with hardly a trace of that daring and invincible spirit 
wliich rules the world. 

" Oh," said Capt. Webb, " it is all very well for you to 
talk about energy and all that kind of thing, but I 
assure you that a residence of four or five years on this 

c 



18 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

island, among sucli people as are here, would make you 
feel that it was a hopeless task to resist the influence of 
the example by which the most energetic spirits are 
subdued, and to which they must submit in time, 
sooner or later. We were all terribly energetic when 
we first came here, and struggled bi'avely to mal^e i bings 
go on as we were accustomed to have them at home, 
but we hav<i found tliat we were knocking our heads 
against granite walls to no purpose whatever. These 
fellows — the Arabs, the Banyans, and the Hindis, you 
can't make them go faster by ever so much scolding and 
praying, and in a very short time you see the folly of 
fighting against the unconquerable. Be patient, and 
don't fret, that is my advice, or you won't live long 
here." 

There were three or four intensely busy men, though, 
at Zanzibar, who were out at all hours of the day. I know 
one, an American ; I fancy I hear the quick pit-pat of his 
feet on the pavement beneath the Consulate, his cheery 
voice ringing the salutation, ^' Yambo ! " to every one he 
met ; and he liad lived at Zanzibar twelve years. 

I know another, one of the sturdiest of Scotchmen, the 
most pleasant-mannered, unaffected, and sincere in what- 
ever he did or said, wdio has lived at Zanzibar several 
years, subject to the infructuosities of the business he has 
been engaged in, as well as to the calor and ennui of 
the ch'mate, who yet presents as formidable a front as 
ever to the apathetic native of Zanzibar. No man can 
charge Capt. H. C. Fraser, formerly of the Indian 
Navy, with being apathetic, whatever else malice may 
suggest. 

I might with ease give evidence of the industry of 
others, but they are all my friends, and they are all 
good. The American, English, Germans, and French 



Jan. 1871.] ZANZIBAR. 18 

residents have ever treated me with a courtesy and 
kindness I am not disposed to forget. Taken as a body, 
it would be hard to find a more generous or hospitable 
colony oJ" white men in any part of the world. 

In a great tall house with a certain grandeur of vast- 
ness about it, topped with the queerest of all steeples, 
situated on Shangani Point, Bishop Tozer, his disciples, 
his choi'isters and his flock, have found excellent quar- 
ters. The Bishop, who styles himself ** Missionary Bisliop 
of Central Africa," is one of the politest men 1 ever knew. 
I believe he is called the '' fighting parson " — a plagiar- 
ristic appellation when bestowed on him, since Dr. 
Livingstone first received it from the Duke of Wellington. 
Bishop Tozer, however, is said to have fought an insolent 
rowdy, on his way to church ; and after having punished 
him at a boxing-match, offered to punish his com- 
panions one aftej* another in the same way, which offer 
was refused. This feat of pugilism by Bishop Tozer 
converted these wolves into lambs, and won for him the 
title of Bishop, and the happy sinecure he holds. 

The Bishop in his crimson robe, and with his sacer 
dotal title ''Missionary Bishop of Central Africa" (why 
he siiould be so named I cannot conceive), has reached 
the bourne of aspiring priesthood, and is consequently 
ineffably happy. But this High Church (very High 
Church indeed) prelate in his crimson robe of office, 
and in the queerest of all head-dresses, seen stalking 
through the streets of Zanzibar, or haggling over the 
price of a tin-pot at a tinker's stall, is the most ridiculous 
sight I have seen anywhere outside of a clown show. T 
as a white man solemnly protest against the absurdity. 
A similar picture to the Bisliop, in his priestly robes and 
a paper cap, in a tinker's stall, is the King of Dahomey 
in a European hat with his body naked, promenading 

2 



2C EOW J FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

pompously about in this exquisite full dress. Whatever 
the Bishoj) in his blissful innocence may think of the 
effect which it produces in the minds of the heathen, I 
can inform him, that to the Arabs and Waii guana who 
have settled in Unyanyembe he is only an object of 
supreme ridicule ; and also, that most of his pale-faced 
brothers entertain something of the same opinion. 

Poor, dear Bishop Tozer ! I would fain love and 
admire thee, were it not for this exhibition of extreme 
High-Churchism in a place like Zanzibar ! 

The French missionaries have proceeded actively to 
work in a true practical spirit. They not only endea- 
vour to instil into the minds of their numerous converts 
the principles of religion, but also to educate them in the 
business of life. They teach their young disciples various 
useful trades ; they produce agriculturists, carpenters, 
blacksmiths, boat-builders, and mechanical engineers 
among them. Their various departments of instruction 
have able, efficient, and laborious teachers. Their 
shops at Zanzibar form one of the sights which a 
stranger would wish to see. At Bagamoyo^ on the 
mainland, their mission station is on an extensive scale. 
The estate adjoining the mission station, cultivated 
by their young pupils, is a model of industry; and the 
products serve to more than support the institution 
with all the necessaries of life. The converts and 
pupils they are educating exceed more than twc 
hundred. 



Jan. 1871.1 



CHAPTER II. 
ORGANIZATION OF THE EXPEDITION. 

1 WAS totally Ignorant of the interior, and it was difficult 
at first to know what I needed, in order to take an 
expedition into Central Africa. Time was precious, 
also, and mncli of it could not be devoted to inquiry 
and investigation. In a case like this, it would have 
been a godsend, I thought, had either of the three 
gentlemen. Captains Burton, Speke, or Grant, given 
some information on these points ; had they devoted a 
chapter upon, " How to get ready an Expedition for 
Central Africa." The purpose of this chapter, then, is 
to relate how I set about it, that other travellers 
coming after me may have the benefit of my expe- 
rience. 

These are some of the questions I asked myself, as I 
tossed on my bed at night : — 

" How much money is required ? *' 

" How many pagazis, or carriers ? " 

** How many soldiers ?" 

** How much cloth ? " 

" How many beads ? " 

" How much wire ? " 

" What kinds of cloth are required for the difierent 
tribes?" 



22 now I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

Ever so many questions to myself brought me no 
nearer the exact point I wished to arrive at. I scribbled 
over scores of sheets of paper, making estimates, draw 
ing out lists of material, calculating the cost of keeping 
one hundred men for one year, at so many yards of dif- 
ferent kinds of cloth, etc. I studied Burton^ Speke, 
and Grant in vain. A good deal of geographical 
ethnological, and otiier information appertaining to the 
study of Inner Africa was obtainable, but information 
respecting the organization of an expedition requisite 
before proceeding to Africa, was not in any book. I 
threw tbe books from me in disgust. The Europeans 
at Zanzibar knew as little as possible about this par- 
ticular point. There was not one white man at Zanzi- 
bar, who could tell how many dotis a day a force of one 
hundred men required for food on the road. Neither, 
indeed, was it their business to know. But what should 
I do at all, at all ? This was a grand question. 

I decided it were best to hunt up an Arab merchant 
who had been engaged in the ivory trade, or who was 
fresh from the interior. 

Sheikh Hashid was a man of note and of wealth in 
Zanzibar. He had himself despatched several caravans 
into the interior, and was necessarily acquainted with 
several prominent traders who came to his house to 
gossip about their adventures and gains. He was also 
the proprietor of the large house Capt. Webb occu- 
pied ; besides, he lived across the narrow street which 
separated his house from the Consulate. Of all men 
Sheikh Hashid was the man to be consulted, and he 
was accordingly invited to visit me at the Consulate. 

From the grey-bearded and venerable-looking 
Sheikh, I elicited more information about African 
currency, the mode of procedure, the quantity and 



Jan. 1871.] OROANIZATION OF THE EXPEDITION, 28 

quality of stuffs I required, than I had obtained from 
three months study of books upon Central Africa ; and 
from other Arab merchants to whom the ancient Sheikli 
introduced me, I received most valuable suggestions 
and hints, which enabled me at last to organize an 
expedition. 

The reader must bear in mind that a traveller 
requires only that which is sufficient for travel and 
exploration ; that a superfluity of goods or means will 
prove as fatal to him as poverty of supplies. It is on 
this question of quality and quantity that the traveller 
has first to exercise his judgment and discretion. 

My informants gave me to understand that for one 
hundred men, 10 doti, or 40 yards of cloth per diem, 
would suffice for food. The proper course to pursue, I 
found, was to purchase 2,000 doti of American sheeting, 
1,000 doti of Kaniki, and 650 doti of the coloured 
cloths, such as Barsati, a great favourite in Unyam- 
wezi ; Sohari, taken in Ugogo ; Ismahili, Taujiri, 
Joho, Shash, Rehani, Jamdani or Kunguru-Cuteh, 
blue and pink. These were deemed amply sufficient 
for the subsistence of one hundred men for twelve 
months. Two years at this rate would require 4000 
doti = 16,000 yards of American sheeting; 2,000 
doti = 8,000 yards of Kaniki; 1,300 doti = 5,200 
yards of mixed coloured cloths. This was definite 
and valuable information to me, and excepting the lack 
of some suggestions as to the quality of the sheeting, 
Kan - i, and coloured cloths, I had obtained all I desired 
upon this point. Second in importance to the air^ount 
of cloth required was the quantity and quality of the 
beads necessary. Beads, I was told, took the place of 
cloth currency among some tribes of the interior. One 
tribe preferred white to black beads, brown to yellow, 



24 HOW 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE, 

red to green, green to white, and so on. Thus, \n 
Unyamwezi, red (sami-sami) beads would readily be 
taken, where all other kinds would be refused ; black 
(bubu) beads, though currency in Ugogo, were posi- 
tively worthless with all other tribes; the ^gg (sungo- 
mazzi) beads, tliough valuable in Ujiji and Uguhha, 
would be refused in all other countries ; the white 
(Merikani) beads, though good in Ufipa, and some 
parts of Usagara and Ugogo, would certainly be 
despised in Useguhha, and Ukonongo. Such being the 
case, I was obliged to study closely, and calculate the 
probable stay of an expedition in the several countries, 
so as to be sure to provide a sufficiency of each kind, 
and guard against any great overplus. Burton and 
Spcke, for instance, were obliged to throw away as 
worthless several hundred fundo of beads. 

For example, supposing the several nations of Europe 
had each its own cu?Tency, without the means of 
exchange, and supposing a man was about to travel 
through Europe on foot, before starting he would be 
apt to calculate how many days it would take him to 
travel through France ; how many through Prussia, 
Austria, nnd Russia, then to reckon the expense he 
would be likely to incur per day. If the expense be 
set down at a napoleon per day, and his journey through 
France would occupy thirty days, the sum required for 
going and returning might be properly set down at 
sixty napoleons, in which case, napoleons not being 
current money in Prussia, Austria, or Russia, it v»^ould be 
utterly useless for him to burden himself with the weight 
of a couple of thousand napoleons in gold. 

My anxiety on this point was most excruciating. 
Over and over I studied the hard names and measures, 
conned again and again the polysyllables, hoping to b© 



Jan. 1871.] ORGANIZATION OF THE EXPEDITION. 25 

able to arrive some time at an intelligible definition of 
the terms. I revolved in my mind the words Mukun- 
gnrii, Grhulabio, Sungomazzi, Kadunduguru, Mntimda, 
Sami-sami, Bubu, Merikani, Hafde, Lunghio-Rega, 
and Lakhio, until I was fairl}^ beside myself. Finally, 
however, I came to the conclusion that if I reckoned 
my requirements at fifty khete, or five fundo per day, 
for two years, and if I purchased only eleven varieties, 
T might consider myself safe enough. The purchase 
was accordingly made, and twenty-two sacks of the 
best species were packed and brought to Capt. WebVs 
house, ready for transportation to Bagamoyo. 

After the beads came the wire question. I discovered, 
after considerable trouble, that Nos. 5 and 6 — almost 
of the thickness of telegraph wire — were considered the 
best numbers for trading purposes. While beads stand 
for copper coins in Africa, cloth measures for silver ; 
wire is reckoned as gold in the countries beyond the 
Tan-ga-ni-ka.* Ten frasilah, or 350 lbs., of brass-wire, 
my Arab adviser thought, would be ample. 

Having purchased the cloth, the beads, and the wire, 
it was with no little pride that I surveyed the comely 
bales and packages lying piled up, row above row, in 
Capt. Webb's capacious store-room. Yet my work was 
not ended, it was but beginning ; there were provisions, 
cooking-utensils, boats, rope, twine, tents, donkeys, 
saddles, bagging, canvas, tar, needles, tools, ammu- 
nition, guns, equipments, hatchets, medicines, bedding, 
presents for chiefs — in short, a thousand things not yet 
purchased. The ordeal of chaffering and haggling 
witli steel-hearted Banyans, Hindis, Arabs, and half- 
castes was most trying*. For instance, I purchased 

* It will be seen that I differ from Capt. Burton in the spell iii^ 
of this word, as I deem the letter " y " superfluous. 



26 EO[V I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

twenty-two donkeys at Zanzibar. $40 and $50 were 
asked, wliicli I had to reduce to $]5 or $20 by an 
infinite amonnt of argument worthy, I think, of a nobler 
cause. As was my experience with the ass-dealers so it 
was with the petty merchants ; even a paper of pins 
was not purchased without a five per cent, reduction 
from the price demaiided, involving, of course^ a loss 
of much time and patience. 

After collecting the donkeys, I discovered there werp. 
no pack-saddles to be obtained in Zanzibar. Donkeys 
without pack-saddles were of no use whatever. I in- 
vented a saddle to be manufactured by myself and my 
white man Farquhar, wholly from canvas, rope, and 
cotton. 

Three or four frasilahs of cotton, and ten bolts of 
canvas were required for the saddles. A specimen 
saddle was made by myself in order to test its efficiency. 
A donkev was taken and saddled, and a load of 140 lbs. 
was fastened to it, and though the animal — a wild 
creature of Unyamwezi — struggled and reared franti- 
cally, not a particle gave way. After this experiment, 
Farquhar was set to work to manufacture twenty-one 
more after the same pattern. Woollen pads were also 
purchased to protect the animals from being galled. It 
ought to be mentioned here, perhaps, that the idea of 
such a saddle as I manufactured, was first derived from 
the Otago saddle, in use among the transport-trains of 
the English army in Abyssinia. 

A man named John William Shaw — a native of 
London, England, lately third-mate of the American 
ship ' Nevada ' — applied to me for work. Though his 
discharge from the ' Nevada ' was rather suspicious, 
yet he possessed all the requirements of such a man as 
I needed, and was an experienced hand with the palm 



Jan. 1871.] OBGANIZATIO^ OF THE EXPEDITION. 27 

and needle, could cut canvas to fit anything, was a 
pretty good navigator, ready and willing, as far as liis 
professions went. I saw no reason to refuse his services, 
and lie was accordingly engaged at $300 per annum, 
to rank second to William L. Farquhar. 

Farquhar was a capital navigator and excellent ma- 
thematician ; was strong, energetic, and clever ; but, I 
am sorry to say, a hard drinker. Every day, wdiile we 
lived at Zanzibar, he was in a muddled condition, and 
the dissipated, vicious life he led at this place proved 
fatal to him, as will be seen, shortly after penetrating 
into the interior. 

The next thing I was engaged upon was to enlist, 
arm^ and equip, a faithful escort of twenty men for the 
road. Johari, the chief dragoman of the American 
Consulate, informed me that he knew where certain of 
Speke's " Faithfuls " were yet to be found. The idea 
had struck me before, that if I could obtain the services 
of a few men acquainted with the ways of white men, 
and who could induce other good men to join the 
expedition I was organizing, I might consider myself 
fortunate. More especially had I thought of Seedy 
Mbarak Mombay, commonly called " Bombay," who 
though his head was " woodeny," and his hands 
*• clumsy," was considered to be the " faithfulest '* of 
Ihe "Faithfuls." 

With the aid of the dragoman Johari, I secured in a 
few hours the services of Uledi (Capt. Grant's former 
valet), Ulimengo, Baruti, Ambari, Mabruki (Muinyi 
Mabruki — Bull-headed Mabruki, Capt. Burton s former 
unhappy valet) — five of Speke's " Faithfuls." When I 
asked them if they were willing to join another white 
man's expedition to Cjiji, they replied very readily that 
they were willing to join any brother of " Speke's." 



28 BOW T FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

Dr. John Kirk, Her Majesty's Consul at Zanzibar, who 
was present, told them that though I was no brother 
of *' Speke's," I spoke his language. This distinction 
mattered little to them, and I heard them, with great 
delight, declare their readiness to go anywhere with 
me, or do anything I wished. 

Mombay, as they called him, or Bombay, as we 
Wasungu know him, had gone to Pemba, an island ly- 
ing north of Zanzibar. Uledi was sure Mombay would 
jump with joy at the prospect of another expedition. 
Johari was therefore commissioned to write to him 
at Pemba, to inform him of the good fortune in store 
for him. 

On the fourth morning after the letter had been 
despatched, the famous Bombay made his appearance, 
followed in decent order and due rank by the " Faith- 
fuls" of ** Speke." I looked in vain for the " woodeny 
head" and ''aUigator teeth" with which his former 
master had endowed him. I saw a slender short man 
of fifty or thereabouts, with a grizzled head, an un- 
commonly high, narrow forehead, with a very large 
mouth, showing teeth very irregular, and wide apart. 
An ugly rent in the upper front row of Bombay's 
teeth was made with the clenched fist of Capt. Speke 
in Uganda, when his master's patience was worn out, 
and prompt punishment became necessary. That Capt. 
Speke had spoiled him with kindness was evident, 
from the fact that Bombay had the audacity to stand up 
for a boxing match with him. But these things I only 
found out when, months afterwards, I was called upon 
to administer punishment to him myself. But, at 
his first appearance, I was favourably impressed with 
Bombay, though his face was rugged, his mouth large, 
his ej es small, and his nose flat. 



Jan. 1871.] ORGANIZATION OF THE EXPEDITION. 29 

*' Salaam aliekum/' were the words be greeted me 
with. 

" Ahekum salaam," I replied, with all the gravity 1 
could muster. I then informed him I required him as 
captain of my soldiers to Ujiji. His reply was that he 
was ready to do whatever 1 told him, go wherever 1 
liked — in short, be a pattern to servants, and a model 
to soldiers. He hoped I would give him a uniform, 
and a good gun, both of which were promised. 

Upon inquiring for the rest of the " Faithfuls " who 
accompanied Speke into Egypt, I was told that at 
Zanzibar there were but six. Ferrajji, Maktub, Sadik, 
Sunguru, Manyu, Matajari, Mkata, and Almas, were 
dead ; Uledi and Mtamani were in Unyanyembe ; 
Hassan had gone to Kilwa, and Ferahan was supposed 
to be in Ujiji. 

Out of the six " Faithfuls," each of whom still retained 
his medal for assisting in the " Discovery of the Sources 
of the Nile," one, poor Mabruki, had met with a sad 
misfortune which I feared would incapacitate him from 
active usefulness. 

Mabruki the " Bull-headed," owned a shamba (or a 
house with a garden attached to it), of which he was 
very proud. Close to him lived a neighbour in similar 
circumstances, who was a soldier of Syed Majid, with 
whom Mabruki, who was of a quarrelsome disposition, 
had a feud, which culminated in the soldier inducing 
two or three of his comrades to assist him in punish- 
ing the malevolent Mabruki, and this was done in a 
manner that only the heart of an African could con- 
ceive. They tied the unfortunate fellow by his wrists 
to a branch of a tree, and after indulging their brutal 
appetite for revenge in torturing him, left him to hang 
in that position for two days. At the expiration of 



30 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

the second day, he was accidentally discover sd In a 
most pitiable condition. His hands had swollen to an 
immense size, and the veins of one hand having been 
ruptured, he had lost its use. It is needless to say that, 
when tlie affair came to Syed Majid's ears, the miscreants 
were severely punished. Dr. Kirk, who attended the 
poor fellow^ succeeded in restoring one hand to some- 
thing of a resemblance of its former shape, but the other 
hand is sadly marred, and its former usefulness gone 
for ever. 

However, I engaged Mabruki, despite his deformed 
hands, his ugliness and vanity, despite Burton's bad 
report of him, because he was one of Speke's " Faith- 
fuls." For if he but wagged his tongue in my 
service, kept his eyes open, and opened bis mouth at 
the proper time, I assured myself I could make him 
useful. 

Bombay, my captain of escort, succeeded in getting 
eighteen more free men to volunteer as " askari " 
(soldiers), men whom he knew would not desert, and 
for whom he declared himself responsible. They were 
an exceedingly fine-looking body of men, far more 
intelligent in appearance than I could ever have 
believed African barbarians could be. Tbey hailed 
principally from Uhiyow, others from Unyamwezi, some 
came from Useguhha and Ugindo. 

Their wages were set down at $36 each man per 
annum, or $3 each per month. Each soldier was pro- 
vided with a flintlock, musket, powder horn, bullet, 
pouch, knife, and hatchet, besides enough powder and 
ball for 200 rounds. 

Bombay, in consideration of his rank, and previous 
faithful services to Burton, Speke, and Grant, was en- 
gaged at $80 a year, half that sum ha advance, a good 



Jan. 1871.] ORGANIZATION OF TEE EXPEDITION. 31 

muzzle-loading rifle, besides, a pistol, knife, and hatchet 
were given to liim, while the other five *' Faitlifuls," 
Ambari, Mabruki, Ulimengo, Baruti, and Uledi, were 
engaged at $40 a year, with proper equipments as 
soldiers. 

Having studied fairly well all the East African 
travellers' books regarding Eastern and Central Africa, 
my mind ]iad conceived tlie difficulties which would 
present the nsoives during the prosecution of my search 
after Dr. Livingstone. 

To obviate all of these, as well as human wit could 
suggest, was my constant thought and aim. 

" Shall I permit myself, while looking from Ujiji over 
the waters of the Tanganika Lake to the other side, 
to be balked on the threshold of success by the insolence 
of a King Kannena or the caprice of a Hamed bin 
Sulayyam ? " was a question I asked myself To guard 
ao'ainst such a contingency I determined to carry my 
own boats. '' Then," I thought, " if I hear of Livingstone 
being on the Tanganika, I can launch my boat and 
proceed after him." 

I procured one large boat, capable of carrying twenty 
persons, with stores and goods sufficient for a cruise, 
from the American Consul, for the sum of $80, and a 
smaller one from another American gentleman for $40. 
The latter would hold comfortably six men, with suit- 
able stores. 

I did not intend to carry the boats whole or bodily, 
but to strip them of their boards, and carry the timbers 
and thwarts ordy. As a substitute for the boards, 1 
proposed to cover each boat with a double canvas skin 
well tarred. The work of stripping them and taking 
them to pieces fell to me. This little job occupied me 
five days. I also packed them up, for the pagazis. 



32 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, 

Each load was carefully weighed, and none exceeded 
68 lbs. in weight. 

John Shaw excelled himself in the workmanship dis- 
played on the canvas-boats ; when finished, they fitted 
their frames admirabl3\ The canvas — six bolts of Eng- 
lish hemp, No. 3 — was procured from Ludhai Damj, 
who furnished it from the sultan's storeroom. 

An insuperable obstacle to rapid transit in Africa is 
the want of carriers, and as speed was the main object 
of the Expedition under my command, my duty was to 
lessen this diHiculty as much as possible. My carriers 
could only be engaged after arriving at Bagamoyo, 
on the mainland. I had over twenty good donkeys 
ready, and I thought a cart adapted for tlie goat- 
paths of Africa might prove an advantage. Accord- 
ingly I had a cart constructed, eighteen inches wide 
and five feet long, supplied with two fore-wheels of a 
light American wagon, more for the purpose of con- 
veying the narrow ammunition-boxes. I estimated 
that if a donkey could carry to Unyanyembe a load of 
four frasilahs, or 140 lbs., he ought to be able to draw 
eight frasilahs on such a cart, which would be equal to 
the carrying capacity of four stout pagazis or carriers. 
Events will prove, how my theories were borne out by 
practice. 

When my purchases were completed, and I beheld 
them piled up, tier after tier, row upon row, here a 
mass of cooking-utensils, there bundles of rope, tents, 
saddles, a pile of portmanteaus and boxes, containing 
every imaginable thing, I confess I was ratlier abashed 
at my own temerity. Here were at least six tons of 
material ! " How will it ever be possible," I thought, 
"to move all this inert mass across the wilderness 
stretching between the sea, and the great lakes of 



Jan. 1871.] ORGANIZATION OF THE EXPEDITION. 33 

Africa ? Bab, cast all doubts away, raan, and have at 
tbem ! * Sufficient for the day is tbe evil thereof,' with- 
out borrowing from the morrow." 

I'he traveller, with a lake in the centre of that 
broad African continent before him, must needs make 
his way there after a fashion very different from that to 
which he has been accustomed in other countries. He 
requires to take with him just what a ship must have 
when about to sail on a long voyage. He must have 
his slop chest, his little store of canned dainties, and his 
medicines, besides which, he must have enough guns, 
powder, and ball to be able to make a series of good 
fights if necessary. He must have men to convey these 
miscellaneous articles ; and as a man's maximum load 
does not exceed 70 lbs., to convey 11,000 lbs. requires 
nearly 160 men. 

Europe and the Orient, even Arabia and Turkestan, 
have royal ways of travelling compared to Africa. 
Specie is received in all those countries, by which a 
traveller may carry his means about with him on his 
own pei^son. Eastern and Central Africa, however, 
demand a necklace, instead of a cent ; two yards of 
American sheeting, instead of half a dollar, or a florin, 
and a kitindi of thick brass-wire, in place of a gold piece. 

The African traveller can hire neither wagons nor 
camels, neither horses nor mules, to proceed with him 
into the interior. His means of conveyance are limited 
to black and naked men, who demand at least $15 a 
liead for every 70 lbs. weight carried only as far as 
Unyanyembe. 

One thing amongst others my predecessors omitted 
to inform men bound for Africa, which is of importance, 
and that is, that no traveller should ever think of coming 
to Zanzibar with his money in any other shape than 

u 



34 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, 

gold coin. Letters of credit, circular notes, and siicb 
civilized things I have found to be a centur^^ ahead of 
Zanzibar people. 

Twenty and twenty-five cents deducted out of every 
dollar I drew on paper is one of the unpleasant, if not 
unpleasantest things I have committed to lasting 
memory. For Zanzibar is a spot far removed from 
all avenues of European commerce, and coin is at a 
high premium. A man may talk and entreat, but though 
he may have drafts, cheques, circular notes, letters of 
credit, a carte-blanche to get wliat he wants, out of 
every dollar must be deducted tNxenty, twenty-five and 
thirty cents, so I was told, and so was my experience. 
What a pity there is no branch-bank here ! 

I had intended to have gone into Africa incognito. 
But the fact that a white man, even an American, was 
about to enter Africa was soon known all over 
Zanzibar. This fact was repeated a thousand times in 
the streets, proclaimed in all shop alcoves, and at the 
custom-house. The native bazaar laid hold of it, and 
agitated it day and night until my departure. The 
foreigners, including the Europeans, wished to know 
the pros and cons of my coming in and going out. 

My answer to all questions, pertinent and irapei'tinent, 
was, I am going to Africa. Though my card bore the 
words 



Henry M. Stanley. 



New York Herald. 



very few, I believe, ever coupled the woids ''New 



Jah. 1871] ORGANIZATION OF THE EXPEDITION. h& 

York Herald " with a search after " Doctor Living- 
stone." It was not my fault, was it ? 

Ah, me ! what hard work it is to start an expedition 
alone ! What with hurrying through the baking heat 
of the fierce relentless sun from shop to shop, 
strengthening myself with far-reaching and enduring 
patience for the haggling contest with the livid-faced 
Hindi, summoning courage and wit to brow-beat the 
villainous Goanese, and match the foxy Banyan, talking 
volumes throughout the day, correcting estimates, 
making up accounts, superintending the delivery of pur- 
chased articles, measuring and weighing them, to see 
that everything was of full measure and weight, over- 
seeing the white men Farquhar and Shaw, who were 
busy on donkey saddles, sails, tents, and boats for the 
Expedition, I felt, when the day was over, as though 
limbs and brain well deserved their rest. Such labours 
were mine unremittingly for a month. 

Having bartered drafts on Mr. James Gordon 
Bennett to the amount of several thousand dollars for 
cloth, beads, wire, donkeys, and a thousand necessaries, 
having advanced pay to the white men, and black escort 
of the Expedition, having fretted Capt. Webb and his 
family more than enough with the din of preparation, 
and filled his house with my goods, there was nothing 
further to do but to leave my formal adieus with the 
Europeans, and thank the Sultan and those gentlemen 
who had assisted me, before embarking for Bagamoyo. 

The day before my departure from Zanzibar the 
American Consul, having just habited himself in his 
black coat, and taking with him an extra black hat, 
in order to be in state apparel, proceeded with me to 
the Sultan's palace. The Prince had been generous 
to me ; he had presented me with an Arab horse, had 

D 2 



36 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

furnished me with letters of introduction to his agents^ 
his chief men, and representatives in the interior, and 
in many other ways had sliown himself well disposed 
towards me. 

The palace is a large, roomy, lofty, square house 
close to the fort, built of coral, and plastered thickly 
with lime mortar. In appearance it is half Arabic and 
half Italian. Tiie shutters are Venetian blinds painted 
a vivid green, and presenting a striking contrast to the 
wl lite washed walls. Before the great, lofty, wide 
door were ranged in two crescents several Baluch 
and Persian mercenaries, armed with curved swords 
and targes of rhinoceros hide. Their dress was a 
muddy-white cotton shirt, reaching to the ancles, 
girdled with a leather belt thickly studded with silver 
bosses. 

As we came in sight a signal was passed to some 
person inside the entrance. When within twenty yards 
of the door, the Sultan, who was standing w^aiting, 
came down the steps, and, passing through the ranks, 
advanced toward us, with his right hand stretched out, 
and a genial smile of welcome on his face. On our 
side we raised our hats, and shook hands with him, after 
which, doing according as he bade us, we passed forward, 
and arrived on the highest step near the entrance door. 
He pointed forward ; we bowed, and arrived at the foot 
of an unpainted and narrow staircase to turn once more 
to the Sultan. *' Go on," he said, and we ascended the 
stairs with my feelings greatly shocked, for the Sultan 
coming immediately after me, was placed in a most 
ignominious position for a sovereign prince. The 
Consul, I perceived, was ascending sideways, a mode 
of progression which I saw was intended for a compro- 
mise with decency and dignity ; I imitated him as well 



Jan. 1871.J ORGANTZATION OF TEE EXPEDITION. 87 

as I was able, but I nevertheless thought my position 
rather ptculiar. At the top of the stairs we waited, 
wilh our faces towards the up-coming Prince. Again 
we were waived magnanimously forward, for before us 
was the reception hall and tlirone-room. I noticed, as 1 
marched forward to the furtlicst end, that the room was 
high, and painttd in the Arabic style, that the carpet 
was thick and of Persian fabric, that the furniture con- 
sisted of a dozen gilt cliairs and a chandelier. 

We were seated ; Ludha Damji, the Banyan collector 
of customs, a venerable-looking old man, with a shrewd 
intelligent fice, sat on the right of the Sultan ; next to 
him was the great Mohammedan merchant, Tarya 
Topan, who had come to be present at the interview, 
not only because he was one of the councillors of His 
Highness, but because he also took a lively interest 
in this American Expedition. Opposite to Ludha sat 
Oapt. Webb, and next to him I was seated, opposite 
Tarj^a Topan. The Sultan sat in a gilt chair between 
the Americans and the councillors. Johari the drago- 
man stood humbly before the Sultan, expectant and 
ready to interpret what we had to communicate to 
the Prince. 

The Sultan, so far as dress goes, might be taken for a 
Mingreliaii gentleman, excepting, indeed, for the turban, 
whose ample folds in alternate colours of red, yellow, 
brown, and white, encircled his head. His long robe 
was of dark cloth, cinctured round the waist with his 
rich sword-belt, from which was suspended a gold-hilted 
scimitar, encased in a scabbard also enriched with gold 
His legs and feet were bare, and had a ponderous look 
about them, since he suffered from that strange curse 
of Zanzibar — elephantiasis. His feet were slipped 
into a pair of watta (Arabic for slippers), with thick 



88 HOW J FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

soles and a strong leathern band over the instep. His 
light complexion and his correct features, which are 
intelligent and regular, bespeak the Arab patrician. 
Thej indicate, however, nothing except his high descent 
and blood ; no traits of character are visible unless there 
is just a trace of amiability, and perfect contentment 
with himself and all around. 

Such is Prince, or Syed Burghash, Sultan of Zanzi- 
bar and Pemba, and the East coast of Africa, from 
Somali Land to the Mozambique, as he appeared to me. 

Coffee was served in cups supported by golden fin- 
jans, also some cocoa-nut milk, and rich sweet sherbet. 

The conversation began with the question addressed 
to the Consul, 

** Are you well ?" 

Consul, — " Yes, thank you. How is His Highness ?" 

Highness. — " Quite well !" 

Highness to me, — "Are you well ?*' 

Answer, — " Quite well, thanks ! " 

The Consul now introduces business ; and questions 
about my travels follow from His Highness — 

**How do you like Persia?'* 

"Have you seen Kerbela, Bagdad, Masr, Stamboul?" 

" Have the Turks many soldiers ? " 

" How many has Persia ? " 

" Is Persia fertile ? " 

" How do you like Zanzibar ? " 

Having answered each question to his Highness 
satisfaction, he handed me letters of introduction to his 
ofScers at Bagamoyo and Kaole, and a general intro- 
ductory letter to all Arab merchants whom I might 
meet on the road, and concluded his remarks to me, 
with the expressed hope, that on whatever mission I 
was bound, I should be perfectly successful. 



Feb. 1871.] ORGANIZATION OF THE EXPEDITION. 3fi 

We bowed ourselves out of his presence in rnucb the 
same manner that we had bowed ourselves in, he 
accompanying us to the great entiance door. 

Mr. Goodhue of Salem, an American mercliant long 
resident in Zanzibar, presented me, as I gave him my 
adieu, with a blooded bay horse, imported from the Cape 
of Good Hope, and worth, at least at Zanzibar, $500. 

Feb. 4. — By the 4th of February, twenty-eight days 
from the date of my arrival at Zanzibar, the organization 
and equipment of the " New York Herald Expedition " 
was complete ; tents and saddles had been manufac- 
tured, boats and sails were ready. The donkeys brayed, 
and the horses neighed imjDatiently for the road. 

Etiquette demanded that I should once more present 
my card to the European and American Consuls at 
Zanzibar, and the word "farewell "was said to every- 
body. 

On the fifth day, four dhows were anchored before 
tJie American Consulate. Into one were lifted the two 
horses, into two others the donkeys, into the fourth, 
the largest, the black escort, and bulky moneys of the 
Expedition. 

When about to give the order to sail, the two white 
men, Farquhar and Shaw, were absent. They were 
found, after a vigorous hunt, among the liquor si i ops, 
surrounded by about a dozen boon companions, hold- 
ing forth upon the greatness of the art of African 
exploration, trying to stave off with the aid of whisky 
the dread presentiments that would insidiously now and 
then obtrude themselves into their minds, warning them 
that though new lands were about to be revealed tc 
them, witli all the fantastic scenes credited to the new 
country, there might be something in these strange 
parts that might — " well, what ?" 



40 HOW J FOUND LIVINGSTONE, 

" Get into the dhows at once, men. This is rather a 
bad beginning after signing contracts," I said, as I saw 
them reeling to the beacli in company of Bombay, and 
four or five of the newly-enh'sted escoit. 

" If you })lease, sir, may I ask if — if — if you think I 
have done quite riglit in promising to go with you to 
Afriky ?" asked Shaw, in a most hesitating and dolor- 
ous tone. 

^' Have you not received your advance ? Have you 
not signed tlie contract ?" I asked; "and do you now 
wish to withdraw ? Get into the boat, man, at once. 
We are all in for it now, sink or swim, live or die — 
none can desert his duty." 

A little before noon we set saiL Tlie American flag, 
a present to the Expedition by tliat kind-hearted lady, 
Mrs. Webb, was raised to the mast-head ; the Consul, his 
lady, and exuberant little chikhen, Mary and Charley, 
were on the housetop waving the starry banner, hats, 
and handkerchiefs, a token of farewell to me and mine. 
Happy people, and good ! may their course and ours be 
prosperous, and may God's blessing rest on us all ! 




CAMP AT BAGAMOYO 



CHAPTER III. 



LIFE AT BAGAMOYO. 



The Isle of Zanzibar with its groves of cocoa-nut, 
mango, clove, and cinnamon, and its sentinel islets of 
Chumbi and French, witli its whitewashed city and jack- 
fruit odor, with its liarbor and ships that tread the deep, 
faded slowly from view, and looking westward, the 
African continent rose, a similar bank of gi een verdure 
to that which had just receded till it was a mere sinuous 
line above the horizon, looming in a northerly direction 
to the sublimity of a mountain chain. The distance 
across from Zanzibar to Bagamoyo may be about tw^enty- 
five miles, yet it took the dull and lazy dhows ten hours 
before they dropped anchor on the top of the coral 
reef plainly visible a few feet above the surface of the 
water, within a hundred yards of the beach. 



42 HOW I FO UND LI VI NG STONE. 

The newly-enlisted soldiers, fond of noise and excite* 
ment, discharged repeated salvos by way of a salute to 
the mixed crowd of Arabs, Banyans and Wasawabili, 
who stood on the beach to receive the Musiingu (white 
man), which they did with a g'eneral stare and a chorus 
of " Yambo, Ban a ?" (how are you, master ?) 

In our own land the meeting with a large crowd is 
rather a tedious operation, as our independent citizens 
insist on an interlacing of digits, and a vigorous shaking 
thereof before their pride is satisfied., and the peaceful 
manifestation endorsed ; but on this beach, well lined 
with spectators, a response of " Yambo, Bana!" sufficed, 
except with one who of all there was acknowledged the 
greatest, and who, claiming, like all great men, indi- 
vidual attention, came forward to exchange another 
" Yambo !" on his own behalf, and to shake hands 
This personage with a long trailing turban, was Jema- 
dar Esau, commandant (French), commander (English), 
of the Zanzibar force of soldiers, police, or Baluch gen- 
darmes stationed at Bagamoyo. He had accompanied 
Speke and Grant a good distance into the interior, 
and they, like all English travellers, had rewarded 
him liberally. He took upon himself the responsibility 
of assisting in the debarkation of the Expedition, and 
unworthy as was his appearance, disgraceful as he was 
in his filth, and with his hirsute face, I here commend 
him for his influence over the rabble to all future East 
African travellers. Foremost among those who wel- 
comed us was a Father of the Society of St.-Esprit, who 
with other Jesuits, under Father Superior Horner, have 
established a missionary post of considerable influence 
and merit at Bagamoyo. We were invited to partake 
of the hospitality of the Mission, to take our meals 
there, and, should we desire it, to pitch our camp on 



Fkb. 1871.] LIFE AT BAQAMOYO. 48 

their grounds. But however strong the geniality of 
the welcome and sincere the heartiness of the invita- 
tion, I am one of those who prefer independence to 
dependence if it is possible. Besides, my sense of the 
obligation between host and guest had just had a fine 
edge put upon it by the delicate forbearance of my 
kind host at Zanzibar, who had betrayed no sign of 
impatience at the trouble I was only too conscious of 
having caused him. I therefore informed the hospitable 
Padre, that only for one night could I suffer myself to 
be enticed from my camp. 

I selected a house near the western outskirts of the 
town, where there is a large open square through 
which the road from Unyanyembe enters. Had I been 
at Bagamoyo a month, I could not have bettered my 
location. My tents were pitched fronting the tembe 
(house) I had chosen, enclosing a small square, where 
business could be transacted, bales looked over, examined, 
and marked, free from the intrusion of curious sight- 
seers. After driving the twenty-seven animals of the 
Expedition into the enclosure in the rear of the house, 
storing the bales of goods, and placing a cordon of 
soldiers round, I proceeded to the Jesuit Mission, to a 
late dinner, being tired and ravenous, leaving the 
newly-formed camp in charge of the white men and 
Capt. Bombay. 

The Mission is distant from the town a good half mile, 
to the north of it ; it is quite a village of itself, num- 
bering some fifteen or sixteen houses. There are some 
ten padres engaged in the estabhshment, and as many 
sisters, ; nd all find plenty of occupation in educing 
from native crania the fire of intellip;ence. Truth com- 
pels me to 8t:ite that they are very successful, having 
over two hundred pupils, boys and girls, in the Mission, 



44 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, 

and, from the oldest to the youngest, they show the 

impress of the useful education they have received. 

The dinner furnished to the padres and their guest 
consisted of as many plats as a first-class hotel in Paris 
usually supplies, and cooked with nearly as much skill, 
though the surroundings were by no means equal. I 
feel assured also that the padres, besides being tasteful 
in their potages and entrees, do not stultify their ideas 
for lack of that element which Horace, Hafiz, and 
Byron have praised so much. The champagne — think of 
champagne Cliquot in East Africa ! — Lafitte, La Rose, 
Burgundy, and Bordeaux were of first-rate quality, 
and the meek and lowly eyes of the fathers were not 
a httle brightened under the vinous influence. Ah ! 
those fathers understand life, and ap])reciate its dura- 
tion. Their festive board drives the Mukunguru 
(African jungle fever) from their doors, while it soothes 
the gloom and isolation which strike one with awe, 
as one emerges from the lighted room and plunges 
into the depths of the darkness of an African night, 
enlivened only by the wearying monotone of the frogs 
and crickets, and the distant ululation of the hyaena. 
It requires somewhat above human effort, unaided by 
the ruby liquid that cheers, to be always suave and 
polite amid the dismalities of native life in Africa. 

After the evening meal, which replenished my failing 
strength, and for which I felt the intensest gratitude, 
the most advanced of the pupils came forward, to the 
number of twenty, with brass instruments, thus forming 
a full band of music. It rather astonished me to hear 
the sounds issue forth in such harmony from such 
woolly-headed youngsters ; to hear well-known French 
music at this isolated port, to hear negro boys, that a 
few months ago knew nothing beyond the traditions 



Fed . 1871.] LIFE A T BA GA MO YO. l5 

of their ignorant mothers, stand forth and chant Parisian 
songs about French valor and glory, with all tlie sang- 
froid of gamins from the purlieus of Saint-Antoine, 

I had a most refreshing night's rest, and at dawn I 
sought out my camp, with a will to enjoy the new 
life now commencing. On counting the animals, two 
donkeys were missing ; and on taking notes of ray 
African moneys, one coil of No. 6 wire was not to 
be found. Everybody had evidently fallen on the 
ground to sleep, oblivious of the fact that on the Mrima 
there are many dishonest prowlers at night. Soldiers 
were despatched to search through the town and 
neighbourhood, and Jemadar Esau, he of the trailing 
turban, the filthy face and neck, was apprised of our loss, 
and stimulated to discover the animals by the promise of 
a reward. Before night one of the missing donkeys was 
found outside the town nibbling at manioc-leaves, but 
the other animal and the coil of wire were never found. 

Among my visitors this first day at Bagamoyo was 
Ali bin Salira, a brother of the famous Sayd bin Salim, 
formerly Ras Kafilah to Burton and Speke, and subse- 
quently to Speke and Grant. His salaams were very pro- 
fuse, and moreover, his brother was to be my agent in 
Unyamwezi, so that I did not hesitate to accept his offer 
of assistance. But, alas, for my white face and too 
trustful nature ! This Ali bin Salim turned out to be a 
snake in the grass, a very sore thorn in my side. T 
was invited to his comfortable house to partake of coffee. 
I went there : the coffee was good though sugarless, his 
promises were many, but they proved valueless. Said 
he to me, " I am your friend ; I wish to serve you ; 
what can I do for you ?" — Replied I, " I am obliged 
to you, I need a good friend who, knowing the language 
and customs of the Wanyamwezi, can procure me the 



46 HOW 2 FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

pagazis I need and send me off quickly. Your brother 
is acquainted with the Wasungu (white men), and knows 
that what they promise they make good. Get me a hun- 
dred and forty pagazis and I will pay you your price." 
With unctuous courtesy, the reptile I was now warmly 
nourishing, said, " I do not want anything from you, my 
friend, for such a slight service, rest content and quiet ; 
you shall not stop here fifteen days. To-morrow morn- 
ing I will come and overhaul your bales to see what is 
needed." I bade him good morning, elated with the happy 
tliought that I was soon to tread the Unyanyembe road. 
The reader must be made acquainted with two good 
and sufficient reasons why I was to devote all my 
energy to lead the Expedition as quickly as possible 
from Bagamoyo. First, I wished to reach Ujiji be- 
fore the news reached Livingstone that I was in 
search of him, for my impression of him was that 
he was a man who would try to put as much dis- 
tance as possible between us, rather than make an 
effort to shorten it, and I should have my long journey 
for nothing. Second, the Masika, or rainy season, 
would soon be on me, which, if it caught me at Baga- 
moyo, would prevent my departure imtil it was over, 
which meant a delay of forty days, and exaggerated as 
the rains were by all men with whom I came in contact, 
it rained every day for forty days without intermission. 
This I knew was a thing to dread; for I had my 
memory stored with all kinds of rainy unpleasantnesses. 
For instance, there was the rain of Virginia and its 
concomitant horrors — wetness, mildew, agues, rheuma- 
tics, and such like ; then there were the English rains, 
a miserable drizzle causing the blue devils ; then the 
rainy season of Abyssinia with the flood-gates of the 
firmament opened, and an universal down-pour of rain, 



Feb. 1871.] LIFE AT BAGAMOYO. 41 

enougli to submerge half a continent in a few hours ; 
lastly, there was the pelting monsoon of India, a steady 
shut-in-house kind of rain. To which of these rains 
should I compare this dreadful Masika of East Africa ? 
Did not Burton write much about black mud in 
Uzaramo ? Well, a country whose surface soil is 
called black mud in fine weather, what can it be called 
when forty days' rain beat on it, and feet of pagazis and 
donkeys make paste of it ? These were natural reflec- 
tions, induced by the circumstances of the hour, and I 
found myself much exercised in mind in consequence. 

Ali bin Salim, true to his promise, visited my camp 
on the morrow, with a very important air, and after 
looking at the pile of cloth bales, informed me that I 
must have them covered with mat-bags (makandas). 
He said he would send a man to have them measured, 
but he enjoined me not to make any bargain for the 
bags, as he would make it all right. 

While awaiting with commendable patience the 140 
pagazis promised by Ali bin Salim we were all employed 
upon everything that thought could suggest needful for 
crossing the sickly maritime region, so that we might 
make the transit before the terrible fever could unnerve 
us, and make us joyless. A short experience at Baga- 
moyo showed us what we lacked, what was superfluous, 
and what was necessary. We were visited one night 
by a squall, accompanied by furious rain. I had $1,500 
worth of pagazi cloth in my tent. In the morning I 
looked, and lo ! the drilling had let in rain like a sieve, 
and every yard of cloth was wet. It occupied two 
days afterwards to dry the cloths, and fold them again. 
The drill-tent was condemned, and a No. 5 hemp-canvas 
tent at once prepared. After which I felt convinced 
that my cloth bales, and one year's ammunition, were 



48 NOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

safe, and tlmt I could defy the Masika. In the hurry of 
departure from Zanzibar, and in my ignorance of how 
bales sliould be made, I had submitted to the better judg- 
ment and ripe experience of one Jetta, a commission 
merchant, to prepare my bales for carriage. Jetta did 
not weigh tlie bales as he made them up, but piled the 
Merikani, Kaniki, Barsati, Jamdani, Joho, Ismahili, in 
alternate layers, and roped the same into bales. One or 
two pagazis came to my camp and began to chaffer ; they 
wished to sie the bales first, before they would make a 
final bargain. They tried to raise them up — ugh ! 
ugh ! it was of no use, and withdrew. A fine Salter's 
spring balance was hung up, and a bale suspended to 
the hook; the finger indicated 105 lbs. or 3 frasilah, 
whicli was just 35 lbs. or one frasilah overweight. 
Upon putting all the bales to this test, I perceived that 
Jetta's guess-work, with all his experience, had caused 
considerable trouble to me. The soldiers were set to 
work to reopen and repack, which latter task is per- 
formed in the following manner : — We cut a doti, or 
four yards of Merikani, ordinarily sold at Zanzibar for 
$2*75 the piece of thirty 3^ards, and spread it out. 
We take a piece or bolt of good Merikani, and instead 
of the double fold given it by the Nashua and Salem 
mills, we fold it into three parts, by which the folds have 
a breadtli of a foot ; this piece forms the first layer, and 
will weigh nine pounds ; the second layer consists of six 
pieces of Kaniki, a blue stuff similar to the blue blouse 
stuff of France, and the blue jeans of America, though 
much lighter ; the third layer is formed of the second 
piece of Merikani, the fourth of six more pieces of 
Kaniki, the fifth of Merikani, the sixth of Kaniki as 
before, and the seventh and last of Merikani. Wo 
have thus four pieces of Merikani, which weigh 



Feb. 1871.] LIFE AT BAOAMOYO. 49 

36 lbs., and 18 pieces of Kaniki weighing also 36 lbs., 
making a total of 72 lbs., or a little more than two 
frasilahs; the cloth is then folded singly over these 
layers, each corner tied to another. A bundle of coir- 
rope is then brought, and two men, provided with a 
wooden mallet for beating and pressing the bale, 
proceed to tie it up with as much nicety as sailors 
serve down rigging. 

When complete a bale is a solid mass three feet and a 
half long, a foot deep, and a foot wide. Of these bales 
I had to convey eighty-two to Unyanyembe, forty of 
which consisted solely of the Merikani and Kaniki. The 
other forty-two contained the Merikani and colored 
cloths, which latter were to serve as honga or tribute 
cloths, and to engage another set of pagazis from Un- 
yanyembe to Ujiji, and from Ujiji to the regions beyond. 

The fifteenth day asked of me by Ali bin Salim for 
the procuring of the pagazis passed by, and there was 
not the gliost of a pagazi in my camp. I sent Mabruki 
the Bull-lieaded — one of Burton's men — to Ali bin 
Salim, to convey my salaams and express a hope that 
he had kept his word. In half an hour's time Mabruki 
returned with the reply of the Arab, that in a few days 
he would be able to collect them all ; but, added 
Mabruki, slyly, " Bana, I don't believe him. He said 
aloud to himself, in my hearing, ' Why should I get the 
Musurigu pagazis ? Syed Burghash did not send a letter 
to me, but to the Jemadar. Why should I trouble myself 
about him ? Let Syed Burghash write me a letter to that 
purpose, and I will procure them within two days.' " 

To my mind this was a time for action : Ali bin 
Salim should see that it was ill trifling with a white 
man in earnest to start 1 rode down to his house to 
ask him what he meant. 



50 BOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

His reply was, Mabruki had told a He as black as his 
face. He had never said anything approaching to such 
a thing. He was willing to become my slave — to be- 
come a pagazi himself. But here I stopped the voluble 
Ali, and informed him that I could not think of em- 
ploying him in the capacity of a j)agazi, neither could 
I find it in my heart to trouble Syed Burghash to write 
a direct letter to him, or to reqm're of a man who had 
deceived me once, as Ali bin Salim had, any service of 
any nature wliatsoever. It would be better, therefore, 
if Ali bin Salim would stay away from my camp, and 
not enter it either in person or hy proxy. 

T had lost fifteen days, for Jemadar Sadur, at Kaole, 
had never stiried from his fortified house in that village 
in my service, save to pay a visit, after the receipt of 
the Sultan's lettei'. Naranji, custom-house agent at 
Kaole, solely under the thumb of the great Ludha 
Damji, had not responded to Ludha's worded request 
that he would procure pagazis, except with Avinks, 
nods, and promises, and it is but just stated how I 
fared at the hands of Ali bin Salim. In this extremity 
I remembered tlie promise made to me by the great 
merchant of Zanzibar — Tarya Topan — a Mohammedan 
Hindi — that he would furnish me with a letter to a 
young man named Soor Hadji Palloo, who was said to 
be tlie best man in Bagamoyo to procure a supply of 
pagazis. 

I despatched Seliin, my Arab inteipreter, by a dhow 
to Zanzibar, with a very earnest request to Capt. Webb 
that he wonld procure from Tarya Topan the intro- 
ductory letter so long delayed. It was the last card 
in my liand. 

On tlie third day the boy Selim returned, bringing 
with liim not only the letter to Soor Hadji Palloo, but 



Feb. 1871.] LIFE AT BAOAMOYO. 51 

an abundance of good things from tlie ever-hospitable 
house of Mr. Webb. In a very short time after the 
receipt of his letter, the eminent young man Soor Hadji 
Palloo came to visit me, and informed me he had been 
requested by Tarya Topan to hire for me one hundred 
and forty pagazis to Unyanyembe in the shortest time 
possible. This he said would be very expensive, for 
there were scores of Arabs and Wasawahili merchants 
on the look-out for every caravan that came in from 
the interior, and they paid 20 doti, or 80 yards of 
cloth, to each pagazi. Not willing or able to pay more, 
many of tliese merchants had been waiting as long as 
six months before they could get their quota. " If you," 
continued he, " desire to depart quickly, you must pay 
from 25 to 40 doti, and I can send you off before one 
month is ended." In reply, I said, '' Here are my cloths 
for pagazis to the amount of $1,750, or 3,500 doti, suffi- 
cient to give one hundred and forty men 25 doti each. 
The most I am willing to pay is 25 doti : send one 
hundred and forty pagazis to Unyanyembe with my 
cloth and wire, and I will make your heart glad with 
the richest present you have ever received." With a 
refreshing naivete, the " young man " said he did not 
want any present, he would get me my quota of 
pagazis, and then I could tell the '' Wasungu " what 
a good " young man " he was, and consequently the 
benefit he would receive, would be an increase of busi- 
ness. He closed his reply with the astounding remark 
that he had ten pagazis at his house already, and if 
I would be good enough to have four bales of cloth, 
two bags of beads, and twenty coils of wire carried to 
his l^ouse, the pagazis could leave Bagamoyo the next 
day, under charge of three soldiers. "For,*' he re- 
marked, " it is much better and cheaper to send many 

£ 2 



62 BOW I FO UND L I VING S TONE. 

small caravans than one large one. Large caravans 
invite attack, or are delayed by avaricious chiefs upon 
the most trivial pretexts, while small ones pass by with- 
out notice." 

The bales and beads were duly carried to Soor 
Hadji Palloo's house, and the day passed with me 
in mentally congratulating myself upon my good for- 
tune, in complimenting the young Hindi's talents for 
business, the greatness and influence of Tarya Topan, 
and the goodness of Mr. Webb in thus hastening my 
departure from Bagamoyo. I mentally vowed a hand- 
some present, and a great puff in my book, to Soor 
Hadji Palloo, and it was with a glad heart I prepared 
these soldiers for their march to Unyanyembe. 

The task of preparing the first caravan for the 
Unyanyembe road informed me upon several things 
that liave escaped the notice of my predecessors in 
East Africa, a timely knowledge of which would have 
been of infinite service to me at Zanzibar, in the purchase 
and selection of sufficient and proper cloth. I append 
here, as an example, the bill of costs for the sending of 
a caravan of ten pagazis, and three soldiers as guards 
to Unyanyembe. 

Cost of Carriage, 

To 10 pagazis' hire, at 25 doti, each doti of cloth 
beiugSOc B 125 -00 

Matama grain for 4 days' food 1 • 00 

For Food on the Road, 

Merikani, 25 doti 12-50 

Kauiki, 20 doti 25*^'^ each 5*00 

Taujiri, 2 doti 50'^" each 1-00 

Sami-Sami, 9 lbs 3 • 05 

Bubu, 3 1bs -33 

Merikani, 7 lbs 1-05 

^148-93 



Pbd. 1871.] LIFE AT BA OAMO TO. 68 

Food for Tliree Soldien 

3 lbs. Bubu beads ^ -33 

3 lbs. Merikani '45 

3 lbs. Sami-Sami 1-01| 

Merikani cloths, 7^ doti 3 • 75 

Barsati, 2 doti 1-00 

Kaniki, 2 doti -50 

Wages for 3 months, at ^ 9 per month . . . . 27 • 00 

To money to pay for ferry-boat crossing the Kingani 2 • 00 

g36 04| 

Total cost of pagazis g 148 -98 

„ soldiers 36-04§ 

H184-97f 

Value of Goods carried hy a portion of the First Caravan, 

8 bales of cloth containing — 

90 doti of Kaniki, at 25c g22-50 

112J doti of Merikani, at 50c 66-25 

3 loads of wire, or 4 frasilahs 36*87^ 

1 bag of Sungomazzi, or 1000 14 * 00 

1 bag of Sami-Sami beads, or 2 frasilalis . . , 26*00 

B 155 -62^ 

Thus the cost of carriage was a little over $29 in 
excess of the value of the goods carried. 

Supposing I despatched one hundred pagazis, the cost 
of carriage for ten times the quantity of goods con- 
veyed as estimated above would amount to $1849*76f, 
while the cost of the goods themselves would reach the 
sum of $1556-25, and together would make $3406-01|. 

And while I am about this system of transporta- 
tion, being a methodical man, I might as well annex 
the bill of costs of a portion of the third caravan, led 
by my white man Farquhar, which consisted of \en 
donkeys, three soldiers, one white man, and one cook, 



64 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

SO that the reader may compare the expenses, for he 
must remember I include everything in the bill. 

Cost of Carriage, 

To 9 donkeys bearing goods, at g; 18 . . . g 162*00 

To 1 donkey for white man 18 '00 

To 10 saddles 17-60 

1 saddle, thus: 

Canvas 33J 

Twine 5 

Cotton 25 

Iron rings 10 

American drill 15 

Cotton band 12^ 

Eope 20 

1-21 

3 months* wages to cook at g 9 27 • 00 

3 „ white man at g 26 . . . . 75 • 00 

1 tent 8-00 

Sugar, 4 lbs 25 

Tea 4-00 

Medicine 3*00 

Eice 1-00 

To 3 soldiers' wages at g 9 each 27-00 

Ferry money 2*00 

Matama grain, 16 measures 1*00 

To food on the road for donkeys, 16 doti Merikani. 8*00 

To food for 5 men, 25 doti 12-50 

„ „ 15 lbs. of beads 3-00 

g363-83 

Value of Goods conveyed. 

To 18 bales of clotli containing — 

540 doti Kaniki at 25c g 135 '00 

675 doti Merikani at 50c 337*50 

The cost of carriage in this case is much less, and 
what is in favor of the donkey as a beast of burden, is, 
that it carries much more than two pagazis will, upon 
occasion. Two pagazis with all the necessaries cost 



Feb. 1871.] LIFE AT BAGAMOYO. 55 

about $37*01, one donkey costs upon the same terms 
say about $30*40. These are only acccrding to the 
sums above quoted. But Farquliar could have led into 
Unyanyembe, twenty donkeys as easily as ten ; the cost 
of carriage would then be greatly in favor of tlie donkeys. 
If we take into consideration that Burton's thirty-three 
donkeys all died before they reached Unyanyembe, we 
must also remember that he states that all his pagazis 
deserted or tried to desert on the march. But we shall 
be better able to judge of the relative value of donkeys 
and pagazis after I have arrived at Unyanyembe ; until 
then we will leave the question open. 

The setting-out of tlie first caravan enlightened me 
also upon the subject of honga, or tribute. Tribute 
had to be packed by itself, all of choice cloth ; for the 
chiefs, besides being avaricious, are also very fastidious. 
They will not accept the flimsy colored cloth of the 
pagazi, but a royal and exceedingly high-priced dab- 
wani, Ismahili, Rehani, or a Sohari, or dotis of crimson 
broad cloth. The tribute for the fii'st caravan cost $25. 
Ilavdng more than one hundi-ed and forty pagazis to 
despatch, this tribute money would amount finally to 
$330 in gold, with a premium of 25c. on each dollar. 
Ponder on this, traveller ! I lay bare these facts for 
your special instruction. 

But before my first caravan was destined to part 
company with me, Soor Hadji Palloo — worthy young 
man — and 1, were to come to a definite understanding 
about money matters. The morning appointed for de- 
parture Soor Hadji Palloo came to my hut and pre- 
sented his bill, with all the gravity of innocence, for 
supplying the pagazis with twenty -five doti each as 
Their hire to Unyanyembe, begging immediate payment 
in money. Words fail to express the astonishment. I 



56 EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

naturally felt, that this sharp-looking young man should 
so soon have forgotten the verbal contract entered into 
between him and myself the morning previous, whicli 
was to the effect that out of the three thousand doti 
stored in my tent, and bought expressly for pagazi 
hire, each and every man hired for me as carriers from 
Bagamoyo to Unyanyembe, should be paid out of the 
store there in my tent. When I asked if he remem- 
bered the contract, he replied in tlie affirmative : his 
reasons for breaking it so soon were, that he wished to 
sell his cloths, not mine, and for his cloths he should 
want money, not an exchange. But I gave him to 
comprehend that as he was procuring pagazis for me, 
he was to pay my pagazis with my cloths; that all the 
money I expected to pay him, should be just such a sum 
as I thought adequate for his trouble as my agent, and 
that only on those terms should he act for me in this or 
any other matter, and that the " Musimgu " was not 
accustomed to eat his words. 

The preceding paragraph embodies many more words 
than are contained in it. It embodies a dialogue of an 
hour, an angiy altercation of half-an-honr's duration, a 
vow taken on the part of Soor Hadji Palloo, that if I 
did not take his cloths he should not touch my busi- 
ness., many tears, entreaties, woeful penitence, and 
much else, all of which were responded to with, " Do as 
I want you to do, or do nothing." Finally came relief, 
and a happy ending. Soor Hadji Palloo went away 
with a bright face, taking with him the three soldiers' 
posho (food), and honga (tribute) for the caravan. 
Well for me that it ended so^ and that subsequent 
quarrels of a similar nature terminated so peaceably, 
otherwise I doubt whether my departure from Bagamoyo 
would have happened so early as it did. While I am 



Feb. 1871.] LIFE AT BAGAMOTO. 57 

on this tlieme, and as it really engrossed every moment 
of my time at Bagamoyo, I may as well be more ex- 
plicit regarding Soor Hadji Palloo and liis connection 
with my business. 

Soor Hadji Palloo was a smart young man of 
business, energetic, quick at mental calculation, and 
seemed to be born for a successful salesman. His e^'es 
were never idle, they wandered over every part of my 
person, over the tent, the bed, the guns, the clothes, 
and having swung clear round, began the silent circle 
over again. His fingers were never at rest, they had a 
fidgety, nervous action at their tips, constantly in the 
act of feeling something ; while in the act of talking to 
me, he would lean over and feel the texture of the 
cloth of my trousers, my coat, or my shoes or socks ; 
then he would feel his own light jamdani shirt or dab- 
wain loin-cloth, until his eyes casually resting upon a 
novelty, his body would lean forward, and his arm was 
stretched out with the willing fingers. His jaws also 
were in perpetual motion, caused by vile habits he had 
acquired of chewing betel-nut and Hme, and sometimes 
tobacco and lime. They gave out a sound similar to that 
of a young shoat, in the act of sucking. He was a 
pious Mohammedan, and observed the external cour- 
tesies and ceremonies of the true believers. He would 
aifably greet me, take off his shoes, enter my tent 
protesting he was not fit to sit in my presence, and 
after being seated, would begin his ever-crooked errand. 
Of honesty, literal and practical honesty, this youth 
knew nothing ; to the pure truth he was an utter 
stranger; the falsehoods he had uttered during his 
short life seemed already to have quenched the bold 
gaze of innocence from his eyes, to have banished the 
color of trutli fulness from his features, to have trans- 



58 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

formed him — yet a stripling of twenty — into a most ac- 
complished rascal, and consummate expert in dishonesty. 
During the six weeks I encamped at ]]agamoyo, 
waiting for my quota of men, this lad of twenty gave 
me as much trouble as all the scoundrelism of New 
York gives to her Chief of Police. He was found out 
half a dozen times a day in dishonesty, yet was in 
no way abashed by it. He would send in his account 
of the cloths supplied to the pagazis, stating them to be 
25 paid to eacli ; on sending a man to inquire I would 
find the greatest number to have been 20, and the 
smallest 12. Soor Hadji Palloo described the cloths to 
be of first-class quality, Ulyah cloths, worth in the 
market four times more than the ordinary quality given 
to the pagazis, yet a personal examination would prove 
them to be the flimsiest goods sold, such as American 
sheeting 2 J feet broad, and wortli $2*75 per 30 yards a 
piece at Zanzibar, or the most inferior Kaniki which is 
generally sold at $9 per score. He would personally 
come to my camp and demand 40 lbs. of Sami-Sami, 
Merikani, and Bubu beads for posho, or caravan rations ; 
an inspection of their store before departure from their 
first camp from Bagamoyo would show a deficiency 
ranging from 5 to 30 lbs. Moreover, he cheated in 
cash-money, such as demanding $4 for crossing the 
Kingani Ferry for every ten pagazis, when the fare was 
$2 for the same number ; and an unconscionable amount 
of pice (copper coins equal in value to J of a cent) was 
required for posho. It was every day for four weeks 
that this system of roguery was carried out. Each day 
conceived a dozen new schemes ; every instant of his 
time he seemed to be devising how to plunder, until I 
was fairly at my wits' end how to thwart him. Ex- 
posure before a crowd of his fellows brought no blush of 



Feb. 1871.] LIFE AT BAG A MO TO. 6f 

shame to his sallow cheeks ; he would listen with a 
mere shmg of the shoulders and that was all, which I 
might interpret any way it pleased me. A threat to 
reduce his present had no effect ; a bird in the hand was 
certainly worth two in the bush for him, so 1en dollars' 
worth of goods stolen and in his actual possession was 
of more intrinsic value, than the promise of $20 in a few 
days, though it was that of a Musungu's. 

Readers will of course ask themselves why I did not, 
after the first discovery of these shameless proceedings, 
close my business with him, to which I make reply, that 
I could not do without him unless his equal were forth- 
coming, that I never felt so thoroughly dependent on 
any one man as I did upon him ; without his or his 
duplicate's aid, I must have stayed at Bagamoyo at least 
six months, at the end of which time the Expedition 
would have become valueless, the rumour of it having 
been blown abroad to the four winds. It was imme- 
diate departure that was essential to my success — depar- 
ture from Bagamoyo — after which it might be possible 
for me to control my own future in a great measure. 

These troubles were the greatest that I could at this 
time imagine. I have already stated that I had $1,750 
worth of pagazis' clothes, or 3,500 doti, stored in my 
tent, and above what my bales contained. Calculating 
one hundred and forty pagazis at 25 doti each, I sup- 
posed I had enough, yet, though I had been trying to 
teach the young Hindi that the Musungu was n©t a 
fool, nor blind to his pilfering tricks, though the 3,500 
doti were all spent ; though I had only obtained one 
hundred and thirty pagazis at 25 doti each, which in 
the aggregate amounted to 3,200 doti : Soor Hadji 
Palloo's bill was $1,400 cash extra. His plea was that 
he had furnished Ulyah clothes for Muhongo 240 doti, 



60 _ HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, 

equal in value to 960 of mj doti, that tlie money was 
spent in ferry pice, in presents to chiefs of caravans of 
tents, guns, red broad cloth, in presents to people on 
the Mrima (coast) to induce them to hunt up pagazis. 
Upon this exhibition of most ruthless cheating I waxed 
indignant, and declared to him that if he did not 
run over his bill and correct it, he should go without 
a pice. 

But before the bill could be put into proper shape, 
my words, threats, and promises falling heedlessly on a 
stony brain, a man, Kanjee by name, from the store of 
Tarya Topan, of Zanzibar, had to come over, when the 
bill was finally reduced to $738. Without any dis- 
respect to Tarya Topan, I am unable to decide which is 
the most accomplished rascal, Kanjee, or young Soor 
Hadji Palloo ; in the words of a white man who knows 
them both, ** there is not the splitting of a straw be- 
tween them." Kanjee is deep and sly, Soor Hadji 
Palloo is bold and incorrigible. But peace be to them 
both, may their shaven heads never be covered with 
the troublous crown I wore at Bagamoyo ! 

My dear friendly reader, do not think, if T speak out 
my mind in this or in any other chapter upon matters 
seemingly trivial and unimportant, that seeming such 
they should be left unmentioned. Every tittle related 
is a fact, and to know facts is to receive knowledge. 
How could I ever recite my experience to you if I did 
not enter upon these miserable details, which sorely 
distract the stranger upon his first arrival ? Had I 
been a Grovernment official, I had but wagged my finger 
and my quota of pagazis had been furnished me within 
a week, but as an individual arriving without the 
graces of official recognition, armed with no Govern- 
ment influence, I had to be patient, bide my time, 



Feb. 1871.] LIFE AT BAOAMOYO. 61 

and chew the cud of irritation quietly, but the bread I 
ate was not all sour, as this was. 

The white men, Farquhar and Shaw, were kept 
steadily at work upon water-proof tents of hemp canvas, 
for I perceived, by the premonitory showers of rain that 
marked the approach of the Masika that an ordinary 
tent of light cloth would subject myself to damp and my 
goods to mildew, and while there was time to rectify 
all errors that had crept into my plans through igno- 
rance or overhaste, I thought it was not wise to 
permit things to rectify themselves. Now that I have 
returned uninjured in health, though I have suffered the 
attacks of twenty- three fevers within the short space of 
thirteen months, I must confess I owe my life, first, to 
the mercy of God ; secondly, to the enthusiasm for my 
work, which animated me from the beginning to the 
end ; thirdly,to having never rained ray constitution by 
indulgence in vice and intemperance; fourthly, to the 
energy of my nature ; fifthly, to a native hopefulness 
which never died ; and, sixthly, to having furnished 
myself with a capacious water and damp proof canvas 
house. And here, if my experience may be of value, 
I would suggest that travellers, instead of submitting 
their better judgment to the caprices of a tent-maker, 
who will endeavour to pass off a handsomely made 
fabric of his own, which is unsuited to all climes, to 
use his own judgment, and get the best and strongest 
that money will buy. In the end it will prove the 
cheaj)est, and perhaps be the means of saving liis life. 

On one point I failed, and lest new and young 
travellers fall into the same error which marred much 
of my enjoyment, this paragraph is written. One 
must be extremely careful in his choice of weapons, 
whether for sport or defence. A traveller should have 



62 BOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

at least tbree different kinds of guns. One should be 
a fowling-] )iece, tlie second should be a double-barrelled 
rifle, No. 10 or 12, the third should be a magazine- 
rifle, for defence. For the fowling-piece I would 
suggest No. 12 bore^ with barrels at least four feet in 
length. For the rifle for larger game, I would point 
out, with due deference to old sportsmen, of course, 
that the best guns for African game are the English 
Lancaster and O'Reilly rifles; and for a fighting 
weapon, I maintain that the best yet invented is the 
American Winchester repeating rifle, or the " sixteen- 
shooter " as it is called, supplied with the London 
Eley's ammunition. If I suggest as a fighting weapon 
the American Winchester, I do not mean that the 
traveller need take it for the purpose of offence, but as 
the best means of efficient defence, to save his own life 
against African banditti, when attacked, a thing likely 
to happen any time. 

I met a young man soon after returning from the 
interior, who declared his conviction that the " Express " 
rifle was the most perfect weapon ever invented to 
destroy African game. Yery possibly the young man 
may be right, and that the " Express rifle " is all he 
declares it to be, but he had never practised with it 
against African game, and as I had never tried it, I 
could not combat his assertion : but I could relate my 
experiences with weapons, having all the penetrating 
powers of the " Express," and could inform him that 
though the bullets penetrated through the animals, tliey 
almost always failed to bring down the game at the 
first fire. On the other hand, I could inform him, that 
during the time I travelled with Dr. Livingstone the 
Doctor lent rae his heavy " O'Reilly" rifle with which 
I seldom failed to bring an animal or two home to the 



Feb. 1871.] LIFE AT BAUAMOYO. 63 

camp, and that T found tlie Fraser shell answer all 
purposes for which it was intended. The feats related 
by Capt. Speke and Sir Samuel Baker are no longer 
matter of wonderment to the young sportsman, when 
he has a Lancaster or an O'Reilly in his hand. 
After a very few trials he can imitate them, if not excel 
their deeds, provided he has a steady hand. And i1 
is to forward this end that this paragraph is written. 
African game require "' bone-crushers ;" for any ordinary 
carbine possesses sufficient penetrative qualities, yet 
has not the disabling quahties which a gun must pos- 
sess, to be useful in the hands of an African explorer. 

I had not been long at Bagamoyo before I went 
over to Mnssoudi's camp, to visit the " Livingstone 
caravan " wliich the British Consul had despatched 
on the first day of November, 1870, to the relief of 
Livingstone. The number of packages was thirty-five, 
which required as many men to convey them to Un- 
yanyembe. The men chosen to escort this caravan 
were composed of Joliannese and Wahiyow^, seven in 
number. Out of the seven, four were slaves. They 
lived in clover here — thoughtless of the errand they 
had been sent upon, and careless of the consequences. 
What these men were doing at Bagamoyo all this time I 
never could conceive, except indulging their own vicious 
])ropei;sities. It would be nonsense to say there were 
no pagazis ; because I know there were at least fifteen 
caravans which liad started ior the interior since the 
Ramadan (December 15th, 1870). Yet Livingstone's 
caravan had arrived at this little town of Bagamoyo 
November 2nd, and here it had been lying until the 
10th February, in all, 100 days, for lack of the limited 
number of tliirty-five pagazis, a number that might be 
procured within two days through consular influence. 



64 BOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

If tlie British Consul puts forward a plea that lie was 
not aware that his supplies to Livingstone were still 
halted at Bagamoyo, it will only pi'ove to mc th.at he 
was more culpably negligent than ever of his duty to a 
British subject and a brother official, wlio was left 
completely dependent on him for even the means to 
live. For it was at Zanzibar on the first evening of 
my arrival that I was first informed that there was a 
caravan at Bagamoyo about to start for the interior 
with supplies ibr Dr. Livingstone ; I then did not 
know whether it was an easy or a difficult thing to 
despatch a caravan into the interior. My surprise may 
be better imagined than described, when I discovered 
that this caravan, requiring only thirty-five men, de- 
spatched by the British Consul, had left Zanzibar on 
about the 1st or 2nd of November, 1870, and was still 
encamped at Bagamoyo on the 10th February, 1871, a 
period of one hundred days ! ''' Why," I asked myself, 
" if a small body of thirty-five men cannot be collected 
within one hundred days by a British Consul, how many 
days must elapse before a mere private individual like 
myself can collect one hundred and forty men ?" 

On or about the 10th of February, a rumom^ was 
spread throughout the bazaars at Bagamoyo, which 
reached my camp, that the "Balyuz" — teclmically 
interpreted ''ambassador" — was coming to visit Baga- 
moyo, for the purpose of despatching Livingstone's 
caravan. That same evening or the next morning 
Livingstone's caravan in a fright started for the in- 
terior with but four of the escort. 

Two days afterwards H.M.S. Columbine, Capt. 
Tucker, appeared off Bagamoyo, with Dr. Kirk, the 
acting British Consul and political resident, on board. 
The evening of the Columbine's arrival off our Af' ^osi/\ 



FiEB. 1871.] LIFE AT BAOAMOYO. 65 

port, I rode up to the French mission, whither Dr. Kirk, 
Capt. Tucker, and his executive officer, accompanied by 
M. de Yienne, the French Consul, liad gone, according to 
a hospitable invitation from Fere Horner, superior of 
the Mission. I found them at dinner and was invited 
to take wine with them. The conversation turned 
partly upon the anticipated pleasures of a hunt which 
they were organizing. 

At 6 A.M. the next morning Dr. Kirk, Capt. 
Tucker, his executive officer, Consul de Yienne, and 
Fere Horner started for the Kingani River ; later in 
the day I also proceeded to the Kingani with Farquhar, 
Shaw, and Sayd bin Sayf, to shoot hippopotami. 

As we were returning to camp, in the plain of the 
Kingani, we met Fere Horner, coming, so he said, 
(Vom Kikoka, the first camp on the Unyanyembe road 
from Bagamoyo, whither he had gone to accompany 
the sportsmen. 

On the following Friday evening the English Con- 
sul's party returned from the hunt. I dined with 
them that evening, and the subject of conversation was 
mainly upon their experiences in the woods beyond the 
Kingani. I was informed by Dr. Kirk that the officers 
of the "Columbine," with their pea-rifles, had not been 
able to shoot a thing. The only animals killed had 
been shot by himself; ard, to get any sport at all, he 
had been obliged to proceed alone into the forest. 
*^ They know now " (referring to the officers), said 
Dr. Kirk, " what reliance is to be placed on Sniders 
when levelled against African game." 

At 9 A.M. the next morning Dr. Kirk and a French 
padre paid me a visit at my camp. The former could 
only be prevailed upon to take a cup of tea, as he was 
going, he said, to see about Livingstone's caravan. 

F 



06 BOW 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

About 1 1 A.M. I heard that Dr. Kirk had gone on board 
the " Columbine," and that the children of the French 
Mission had also gone with a full brass-band of musicians 
to entertain the sailors. Between 3 and 4 p.m. the 
" Columbine " departed for Zanzibar. 

Bagamoyo has a most enjoyable climate. It is far 
\)referable in every sense to that of Zanzibar. We 
^vere able to sleep in the open air, and rose refreshed 
and healthy each morning, to enjoy our matutinal bath 
in the sea ; and bythe time the sun had risen we were 
engaged in multitudinous preparations for our departure 
tor the interior. Our days were enlivened by visits 
from the Arabs who were also bound for Unyan^^erabe ; 
by couiical scenes in llic camp, sometimes by court- 
martials held on the refractory, by a boxing-matcli 
between Farquhar and Shaw, necessitating my prudent 
interference when they waxed too wroth ; by a hunt- 
ing excursion now and then to the Kingani plain and 
river ; by social conversation with the old Jemadar and 
his band of Baluches, who were never tired of warning 
me that the Masika was at hand, and of advising me 
that my best course was to hurry on before the season 
for travelling expired. 

John Shaw would get sadly out of temper when 
these visits were paid by the swart magnates of Baga- 
moyo. Upon these occasions my first duty, following 
the custom of the Arabs, was to offer refreshments and 
coffee to my visitors, and to serve them lirst, before 
passing the tray to the white men. 

I observed that Shaw seemed very indignant, and upon 
inquiring the cause, I was informed that I had given 
him great offence by having the Arabs — " niggers " as 
he was pleased to term them — served before he — a 
white man — was. Poor Shaw ! ignorant as a babe of the 



Feb. 1371.] LIFE AT BA'JAMOYO. 6/ 

calamities in store for liim in that country to which his 
thoughts were now directed, what would he not have 
given to know that this supposed slight on his colour was 
the least trouble to be borne on this venturesome Expedi- 
tion ! He fully showed the uneducated Anglo-Saxon's 
inaptitude for travel and intercourse with other races. 

As the days passed by I found it was necessary to 
separate Farquhar from Shaw. The latter proved to be 
a character without a grain of humor, but with a fund 
of vanity that was easily alarmed, and a fond ambition 
which soared into the empyrean with him, carrying 
him often beyond all bounds of human conception. 

Farquhar by himself I thought would be much better 
off than with Shaw, who had certainly a most irri- 
tating manner to a man of Farquhar's temper and 
intelligence. I therefore chose him to lead the third 
caravan into the interior, and upon this announcement 
of my intentions peace was immediately restored between 
the contumacious belligerents. 

Among the employes with the Expedition were two 
Hindi and two Goanese. They had conceived the idea 
that the African interior was an El Dorado, the ground 
of which was strewn over with ivory tusks, and they 
had clubbed together, while their imaginations were 
thus heated, to embark in a little enterprise of their 
own. Their names were Jako, Abdul Kader, Bunder 
Salaam, and Aranselar ; Jako engaged in my service as 
carpenter and general help ; Abdul Kader as a tailor, 
Bunder Salaam as cook, and Aranselar as chief butler. 

But Aranselar, with an intuitive eye, foresaw that I 
was likely to prove a vigorous employer, and while 
there was yet time he devoted most of it to conceive 
how it were possible to withdraw from the engagement. 
He received permission upon asking for it to go to 
Zanzibar to visit his friends. Two days afterwards I 

F 2 



68 EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

was informed he had blown his right eje out, and 
received a medical confirmation of the fact, and note of 
the extent of the injury, from Dr. Christie, the physician 
to His Highness Syed Burghash. His compatriots I 
imagined were about planning the same thing, but a 
peremptory command to abstain from such folly, issued 
after they had received their advance-pay, suificed to 
check any sinister designs they may have formed. 

A groom was caught stealing from the bales, one 
night, and tlie chase after liim into the country until 
he vanished out of siglit into the jungle, was one of the 
most agreeable diversions which occurred to wear away 
the interval employed in preparing for the march. 

I had now despatched four caravans into the interior, 
and the fifth, v^hich was to carry the boats and boxes, 
personal luggage, and a few cloth and bead loads, was 
ready to be led by myself. The following is the order 
of departure of the caravans. 

1871. Feb. 6. — Expedition arrived at Bagamoyo. 

1871. Feb. 18. — First caravan departs with twenty- 
four pagazis and three soldiers. 

1871. Feb. 21. — Second caravan departs with twenty- 
eight pagazis, two chiefs, and two soldiers. 

1871. Feb. 25. — Third caravan departs with twenty- 
two pagazis, ten donkeys, one white man, one cook, and 
three soldiers. 

1871. M arch 11. — Fourth caravan departs with fifty- 
five pagazis, two chiefs, and three soldiers. 

1871. March 21. — Fifth caravan departs with 
twenty-eight pagazis, twelve soldiers, two white men, 
one tailor, one cook, one interpreter, one gun-beareP; 
seventeen asses, two horses, and one dog. 

Total number, inclusive of all souls, comprised in 
caravans connected with the " New York Herald 
Expedition;* 192. 




rO.ITRAIT OF BOMBAY AND MABRUKL 



CHAPTER IV. 



THROUGH UKWERE, UKAM[, AND UDOE TO DSEGUHHA. 



^rom Bagamoyo to- 


h. 


m. 


From Msuwa to — 


h. 


m. 


bliamba Genera , 


. 1 


30 


Kisemo 


. 4 


30 


Kikoka . . 


. 3 


40 


Mussoudi . 


. 4 


20 


Rosako 


. 5 





Mikeseh . 


. 7 





Kingaru . 


. 6 





Muhalleh . 


. 6 


45 


Imbiki . 


. 4 


30 


Simbamwenni . 


. 3 





Msuwa 


. 4 


30 









Before I proceed with this chapter a brief space must 
be given to an apology which I tender to my readers. 
Ego is first and foremost in this book. I am obh'ged to 
exhibit him as he actually was, not as he should be ; as 
he behaved, not as he sliould have behaved ; as be 
travelled, not as he ought to have travelled. I must, 
for conscience' sake, report all tilings literally as they 
occurred, and to the best of my ability record the 



70 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

incid^ints and accidents which befell the Expedition. 
However stay-at-home, chimney-corner, and easy-chair 
loving people may regard the merits of this book, the 
greatest praise and the greatest thanks will be bestowed 
on it by travellers who may succeed me in East Africa ; 
for they will at once perceive the useful lessons taught 
them by my haps and mishaps. 

On the 21st of March, exactly seventy-three days 
after my arrival at Zanzibar, the fifth caravan, led by 
myself, left the town of Bagamoyo for our first journey 
westward, with " Forward !" for its mot du guet. As 
the kirangozi unrolled the American flag, and put him- 
self at the head of the caravan, and the pagazis, animals, 
soldiers, and idlers were lined for the march, we bade a 
long farewell to the dolce far niente of civilised life, to 
the bine ocean, and to its open road to home, to the 
hundreds of dusky spectators who were there to cele- 
brate our departure with repeated salvoes of musketry. 

Our caravan is composed of twenty -eight pagazis, in- 
cluding the kirangozi, or guide ; twelve soldiers under 
Capt. Mbarak Bombay, in charge of seventeen donkeys 
and their loads ; Selim, my boy interpreter, in charge 
of tlie donkey and cart and its load ; one cook and sub, 
who is also to be tailor and ready hand for all, and 
leads the grey horse; Shaw, once mate of a ship, now 
transformed into rearguard and overseer for the caravan, 
v/ho is mounted on a good riding-donkey, and wearing 
a canoe-like topee and sea-boots ; and lastly, on a 
splendid bay horse (presented to me by Mr. Goodhue, 
an American gentleman, long resident at Zanzibar), 
my.self, called "Bana Mkuba," the "big master," by my 
people — the vanguard, the reporter, the thinker, and 
leader of the Expedition. 

The several members composing the caravan are well 



I 



March, 1871.] TlinOUOU UKWERE, ETC., TO USEGUIIITA. 71 



known to me already. They have been the subjects of 
study and selection, and no fault has been found with 
them yet ; still, as it is rather premature to describe 
their characters, I shall confine myself at this time to 
simply naming the principal personages in the order and 
rank they hold : 



1. 

2. 

3. 

4. 

5. 

6. 

7. 

8. 

9. 
10. 
11. 
12. 
13. 
14. 
15. 
16. 
17. 
18. 
19. 
20. 
21. 
22. 
23. 
24. 
25. 



soldier. 



John W. Shaw, rearguard and overseer. 

Mbarak Bombay, captain of soldiers. 

Uledi (Speke's valet), sergeant. 

Mabruki (Burton's valet), tentguard. 

Mabruki the Little 

Mabruk Saleem . . . , 

Zaidi .... 

Kamna .... 

Sarmian . . . . , 

Ferajji (a runaway of Speke's) 

Kingaru .... 

Ambari .... 

Selim (boy from Jerusalem), Arab interpreter. 

Bunder Salaam (of Malabar), cook. 



Abdul Kader 

Hamadi (Wangwana), kirangozi. 

Sarboko 

Jafooneh 

Favjalla 

Kb ami si 

Asmani 

Chamba 

Shubari 

Makoriga 

Kb amis 



tailor and help. 



pagazi. 



Probably some of these people above named will 
acquire habits or exhibit characters very different from 



72 now I FOUND LIVINLtSTONB. 

those I imagined them to have while en route to Un« 
yanyembe. We shall be better judges of them and 
their points when we shall have arrived at Tabora, 
where a general muster will be made for inspection, 
and to hear the reports of the four caravans which have 
preceded us. Altogether the Expedition numbers on the 
day of departure three white men, twenty-three soldiers, 
four supernumeraries, four chiefs, and one hundred and 
fifty-three pagazis, twenty-seven donkeys, and one cart, 
conveying cloth, beads, and wire, boat-fixings, tents, 
cooking utensils and dishes, medicine, powder, small 
shot, musket-balls, and metallic cartridges ; instruments 
and small necessaries, such as soap, sugar, tea, coffee, 
Liebig's extract of meat, pemmican, candles, &c., which 
make a total of 153 loads. The weapons of defence 
which the Expedition possesses consist of one double- 
l.)arrel breech-loading gun, smooth bore ; one American 
Winchester rifle, or " sixteen-shooter ;" one Henry rifle, 
or "sixteen-shooter;" two Starr's breech-loaders, one 
Jocelyn breech-loader, one elephant rifle, carrying balls 
eight to the pound ; two breech-loading revolvers, 
twenty -four muskets (flint-locks), six single-barreled 
pistols, one battle-axe, two swords, two daggers (Per- 
sian kummers, purchased at Shiraz by myself), one 
boar-spear, two American axes 4 lbs. each, twenty-four 
hatchets, and tweniy-four butcher- knives. 

The Expedition has been fitted with care ; whatever 
it needed was not stinted ; everything was provided. 
Nothing was done too hurriedly, yet everything was 
purchased, manufactured, collected, and compounded 
with the utmost despatch consistent with efliciency and 
means. Should it fail of success in its eiiand of lapid 
transit to Ujiji and back, it must simply happen from 
an accident which could not be controlled. So much 



March, 1871.] THBOUGH UKWERE, ETC., TO USEGUHHA. 73 

for the i^ersonnel of the Expedition and its purpose, until 
its point de mire be reached. 

We left Bagamoyo the attraction of all the curious, 
with much eclat, and defiled up a narrow lane shaded 
almost to twilight by the dense umbrage of two parallel 
hedges of mimosas. We were all in the highest 
spirits. The soldiers sang, the kirangozi lifted his 
voice into a loud bellowing note, and fluttered the 
American flag, which told all on-lookers, " Lo, a Mu- 
sungu's caravan !" and my heart, 1 thought, palpitated 
much too quickly for the sober face of a leader. But I 
could not check it ; the enthusiasm of youth still clung 
to me — despite my travels ; my pulses bounded with the 
full glow of staple health ; behind me were the troubles 
which had harassed me for over two months. With 
that dishonest son of a Hindi, Soor Hadji Palloo, I 
had said my last word ; of the blatant rabble of Arabs; 
Banyans, and Baluches I had taken my last look ; 
with the Jesuits of the French Mission I had exchanged 
farewells, and before me beamed the sun of promise 
as he sped towards the Occident. Loveliness glowed 
around me. 1 saw fertile fields, riant vegetation, 
strange trees— I heard the cry of cricket and pee-wit, 
and sibilant sound of many insects, all of which seemed 
to tell me, " At last you are started." What could I 
do but lift my face toward the pure-glowing sky, and 
cry, "' God be thanked !" 

The first camp, Shamba Gonera, we arrived at in 
1 hour 30 nn'nutes, equal to .3i miles. This first, or "little 
journey," was performed very well, " considering," 
as the Irishman says. The boy Selim upset the cart not 
more than tiiree times. Zaidi, the soldier, only onco let 
his donkey, which carried one bag of my clothes and a 
box of ammunition, lie in a puddle of black water. The 



74 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

clothes had to be re-washed ; the ammunition-box, 
thanks to my prevision, was waterproof. Kamna 
perhaps knew the art of donkey-driving, but, over- 
joyful at the departure, had sung himself into oblivion 
of the difficulties with which an animal of the pure asi- 
nine breed has naturally to contend, such as not know- 
ing the right road, and inabihty to resist the temptation 
of straying into the depths of a manioc field ; and the 
donkey, ignorant of the custom in vogue amongst ass- 
drivers of flourishing sticks before an animal's nose, 
and misunderstanding the direction in which he was 
required to go, ran off at full speed along an opposite 
road, until his pack got unbalanced, and he was fain 
to come to the earth. But these incidents were trivial, 
of no importance, and natural to the first " little 
journey " in East Africa. 

The soldiers' points of character leaked out just a 
little. Bombay turned out to be honest and trusty, but 
slightly disponed to be dilatory. Uledi did more talking 
than work ; while the runaway Ferajji and the useless- 
handed Mabruki Burton turned out to be true men 
and staunch, carrying loads the sight of which would 
have caused the strong-limbed hamals of Stamboul to 
sigh. 

The saddles were excellent, surpassing expectation. 
The strong hemp canvas bore its one hundred and fifty- 
pounds' burden with the strength of bull hide, and the 
loading and unloading of miscellaneous baggage was 
performed with systematic despatch. In brief, there 
was nothing to regret — the success of the journey 
proved our departure to be anything but premature. 

The next three days were employed in putting the 
finishing touches to our preparations for the long land 
journey and our precautions against the Masika, which 



March, 1871.] THROUOH UKWERE, ETC., TO USEGUIIIIA. 75 

was now ominously near, and in settling accounts. 
The soldiers and pagazis employed the interval in 
visiting their female friends ; but I forbear the cliro- 
n'lque scandaleuse, 

Shamba Gonera means Gonera's Field. Goneia 
is a wealthy Indian widow, well disposed towards the 
Wasungu (whites). She exports much cloth, beads, 
and wire into the far interior, and imports in return 
much ivory. Her house is after the model of the town 
houses, with long sloping roof and projecting eaves, 
affording a cool shade, under which the pagazis love to 
loiter. On its southern and eastern sides stretch the 
cultivated fields which supply Bagamoyo with the 
staple grain, matama, of East Africa; on the left grow 
Indian corn, and muhogo, a yam-like root of whitish 
color, called by some manioc ; when dry, it is ground 
and compounded into cakes similar to army slapjacks. 
On the north, just behind the house, winds a black quag- 
mire, a sinuous hollow, which in its deepest parts always 
contains water — the muddy home of the brake- and rush- 
loving '' kiboko " or hippopotamus. Its banks, crowded 
with dwarf fan-palm, tall water-reeds, acacias, and 
tiger-grass, afford shelter to numerous aquatic birds, 
pelicans, &c. After following a course north-easterly, it 
conflow^s wnth the Kingani, which, at the distance of four 
miles from Gonera's country-house, bends eastward into 
the sea. To the west, after a mile of cultivation, fall 
and recede in succession the sea-beaches of old in 
lengthy parallel waves, overgrown densely with forest 
grass and marsh reeds. On the spines of these land- 
sw^ells flourish ebony, calabash, and mango. 

" Sofari — sofari leo ! Pakia, pakia !" — " A journey — 
a journey to day ! Set out ! — set out !" rang the cheery 
voice of the kirangozi, echoed by that of my drum- 



76 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

major, servant, general help and useful hand, the Arab 
boy St'lim, on the morning of the fourth day, which 
was tliat fixed for our departure in earnest. As I hurried 
uiy men to their work^ and lent a hand witli energy to 
drop the tents, I mentally resolved that, if my caravans 
ahead should give me clear space, Unyanyembe should 
be our resting-place before three months expired. By 
6 A.M. our early breakfast was despatched, and the 
donkeys and pagazis were defiling from Camp Gonera. 
Even at this early hour, and in this country place, 
there was quite a collection of curious natives, to whom 
we gave the parting " quahary" with sincerity. My ba}^ 
horse was found to be invaluable for the service of a 
quarter-master of a transport-train ; for to sucli was I 
compelled to compare myself. I could stay behind 
until the last donkey had quitted the camp, and, by a 
few minutes' gallop, I could put myself at the head, 
leaving Shaw to bring up the rear. 

The road was a mere footpath, and led over a soil, 
which, though sandy, was of surprising fertility, produc- 
ing grain and vegetables a hundredfold, the sowing and 
planting of which was done in the most unskilful 
manner. In their fields, at heedless labor, were men 
and women in the scantiest costumes, compared to which 
Adam and Eve, in their fig-leaf apparel, must have been 
en grande tenue. Nor were they at all abashed by \\\q 
devouring gaze of men who were strangers to clotheless 
living bodies, nor did they seem to comprehend why- 
inordinate curiosity should be returned with more than 
interest. They left their work as the Wasungu drew 
nigh ; such hybrids in solar topees, white flannels, and 
horse boots were they ! Had the Wasungu been desirous 
of studying the outlines of anatomy and physiology, 
what a rich field for study ! We passed them with 



March, 1871.] THROUGH UKWERE, ETC., TO USEGUIIIIA. 77 

serious faces, while they laughed and giggled, and 
pointed their index fingers at this and that, which to 
them seemed so strange and bizarre. 

In about half an hour we had left tlie tall mataraa 
and fields of water-melons, cucumbers, and manioc ; 
and, crossing a reedy slough, were in an open forest of 
ebony and calabash. In its deptlis are deer in plentiful 
numbers, and at night it is visited by the hippopotami 
of the Kingani for the sake of its grass. In another 
hour we had emerged from the woods, and were looking 
down upon the broad valley of the Kingani, and a scene 
presented itself so utterly different from what my foolish 
imagination had drawn, that I felt quite relieved by the 
pleasing disappointment. Here was a valley stretching 
four miles east and west, and about eight miles north 
and south, left with the ricliest soil to its own wild 
growth of grass — which in civilisation would have been 
a most valuable meadow for the rearing of cattle — in- 
vested as it was by dense forests, darkening the horizon 
at all points of the compass, and folded in by tree-clad 
ridges. 

At the sound of our caravan the red antelope bounded 
away to our right and the left, and frogs hushed their 
croak. The sun shone hot, and while traversing the 
valley we experienced a little of its real African fervor. 
About half-way across we came to a sluice of stagnant 
water which, directly in the road of the caravan, had 
settled down into an oozy pond. The pagazis crossed 
a hastily-constructed bridge, thrown up a long time 
ago by some Washensi Samaritans. It was an extra- 
ordinary affair ; rugged tree limbs resting on very 
unsteady forked piles, and it had evidently tested the 
patience of many a loaded Mnyamwezi, as it did those 
porters of our caravan. Our weaker animals were 



78 EOW 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

unloaded, the puddle between Bagamoyo and Gonera 
Laving ta,ught ns prudence. But this did not occasion 
ranch delay, the men worked smartly under Shaw's 
supervision. 

The turbid Kingani, famous for its hippopotami, was 
reached in a short time, and we began to thread the 
jungle along its right bank until we were halted point- 
blank by a narrow sluice having an immeasurable 
depth of black mud. The difficulty presented by this 
wad very grave, though its breadth was barely eight 
feet ; the donkeys and least of all the horses, could not 
be made to traverse two poles like our biped carriers, 
neither could they be driven into the sluice where they 
would quickly founder. The only available way of 
crossing it in safety was by means of a bridge, to 
endure in this conservative land for generations as the 
handiwork of the Wasungu. So we set to work, there 
being no help for it, with American axes — the first of 
their kind the strokes of which ever rang in this part 
of the world — to build a bridge. Be sure it was made 
quickly, for where the civilised white is found, a diffi- 
culty must vanish. The bridge was composed of six 
stout trees thrown across, over these were laid cross- 
wise fifteen pack saddles, covered again with a thick 
layer of grass. All the animals crossed it safely, and 
then for a third time that morning the process of wading 
was performed. The Kingani flowed northerly here, 
and our course lay down its right bank. A half mile 
in that direction through a jungle of giant reeds and 
extravagant climbers brought us to the ferry, where 
the animals had to be again imloaded — verily, I wished 
when I saw its deep muddy waters that I possessed the 
power of Moses with his magic rod, or what would have 
answered my purpose as well, Aladdin's ring, for then 



March, 1871.] THROUQH UKWEBE, ETC., TO USEOUBHA. 7S 

I could have found myself and party on the opposite 
side without further trouble : but not having either of 
these gifts I issued orders for an immediate crossing, 
for it was ill wishing sublime things before this most 
mundane prospect. 

Kingwere, the canoe paddler, espying us from his 
brake covert on the opposite side, civilly responded to 
our halloes, and brought his huge hollowed tree skilfully 
over the whirling eddies of the river to where we stood 
waiting for him. While one party loaded the canoe with 
our goods, others got ready a long rope to fasten around 
the animals' necks wherewith to haul them through 
the river to the other bank. After seeing the work 
properly commenced, I sat down on a condemned canoe 
to amuse myself with the hippopotami by peppering 
their thick skulls with my No. 1 2 smooth-bore. The 
Winchester rifle (calibre 44), a present from the Hon. 
Edward Joy Morris — our minister at Constantinople — 
did no more than slightly tap them, causing about as 
much injury as a boy's sling ; it was perfect in its accu- 
racy of fire, for ten times in succession I struck the tops 
of their heads between the ears. One old fellow, with 
the look of a sage, was tapped close to the right ear by 
one of these bullets. Instead of submerging himself 
as others had done he coolly turned round his head as 
if to ask, " Why this waste of valuable cartridges on 
us ?" The response to the mute inquiry of his sageship 
was an ounce-and-a-quarter bullet from the smooth- 
bore, whicli made him bellow with pain, and in a few 
moments he rose up again tumbling in his death 
agonies. As his groans were so piteous, I refrained 
from a useless sacrifice of life, and left the amphibious 
horde in peace. 

A little knowledge concerning these uncouth inmates 



80 HOW 1 FOUND LIV7XG STONE. 

of the African waters was gained even dnring the few 
minutes we were delayed at the ferry. Wlien undis- 
turbed by foreign sounds, they congregate in shallow 
water on the sand bars, with the fore half of their 
bodies exposed to tlie warm sunshine, and are in 
appearance, when thus somnolently reposing, very like 
a herd o' enormous swine. When startled by the noise 
of an intruder, they plunge hastily into the depths, 
lashing the waters into a yellowish foam, and scatter 
themselves below the surface, when presently the heads 
of a few reap[)ear, snorting the water from their nostrils, 
to take a fresh breath and a cautious scrutiny around 
them; when thus, we see but their ears, forehead, eyes, 
and nostrils, and as they hastily submerge again It 
requires a steady wrist and a quick hand to shoot them. 
I have heard several comparisons made of their appear-" 
ance while floating in this manner : some Arabs told 
me before I had seen them that they looked like dead 
trees carried down the river ; others who in some country 
had seen hogs, thought they resembled them, but to my 
mind they look more like horses when swimming — 
their curved necks and pointed ears, their wide eyes, 
and expanded nostrils, favor greatly this comparison. 

At night they seek the shore, and wander several 
miles over the country, luxuriating among its rank 
grasses. To within four miles of the town of Bagamoyo 
(the Kiagani is eight miles distant) their wide tracks 
are seen. Frequently, if not disturbed by the startling 
human voice, they make a raid on the rich corn-stalks 
of the native cultivators, and a dozen of them will in a 
few minutes make a frightful havoc in a large field oi 
this plant. Consequently, we were not surprised, while 
delayed at the ferry, to hear the owners of the corn 
venting loud bailees, like the rosy-cheeked farmer boys 



March, 1871.] THROUGH UKWERE, ETC., TO USEGUIIHA. 81 

in England when scaring the crows away from the 
young wheat. 

The caravan in the meanwhile had crossed safely — 
bales, baggage, donkeys, and men. I had thought to 
have camped on the bank, so as to amuse myself with 
shooting antelope, and also for the sake of procuring 
their meat, in order to save my goats, of which I had a 
number constituting my live stock of provisions ; but, 
thanks to the awe and dread which my men entertained 
of the hippopotami, I was hurried on to the outpost of 
the Baluch garrison at Bagamoyo, a small village called 
Kikoka, distant four miles from the river. 

The western side of the river w^as a considerable 
improvement upon the eastern. The plain, slowly 
heaving upwards, as smoothly as the beach of a 
watering-place, for the distance of a mile, until it 
culminated in a gentle and rounded ridge, presented 
none of those difficulties which troubled us on the other 
side. There were none of those cataclysms of mire and 
sloughs of black mud and over-tall grasses, none of that 
miasmatic jungle with its noxious emissions ; it was 
just such a scene as one may find before an English 
mansion — a noble expanse of lawn and sward, with 
boscage sufficient to agreeably diversify it. After 
traversing the open plain, the road led through a grove 
of young ebony trees, where guinea-fowls and a 
hartebeest were seen ; it then wound, with all the 
characteristic eccentric curves of a goat-path, up and 
down a succession of land- waves crested by the dark 
green foliage of the mango, and the scantier and lighter- 
coloured leaves of the enormous calabash. The depres- 
sions were filled with jungle of more or less density, 
while here and there opened glades, shadowed even 
during noon by thin groves of towering trees. At our 

G 



82 now I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

approach fled in terror flocks of green pigeons, jaj's, 
ibis, turtledoves, golden pheasants, quails and moorhens, 
witli crows and hawks, while now and then a solitary 
pelican winged its way to the distance. 

Nor was this enlivening prospect without its pairs 
of antelope, and monkeys which popped away like 
Australian kangaroos; these latter were of good size, 
with round bullet heads, white breasts, and long tails 
tufted at the end. 

We arrived at Kikoka by 5 p.m., having loaded and 
unloaded our pack animals four times, crossing one 
deep puddle, a mud sluice, and a river, and performed 
a journey of eleven miles. 

The settlement of Kikoka is a collection of straw 
huts, not built after any architectural style, but after a 
bastard form, invented by indolent settlers from the 
Mrima and Zanzibar, for the purpose of excluding as 
much sunshine as possible from the eaves and interior. 
A sluice and some wells provide them with water, 
which though sweet is not particularly wholesome or 
appetizing, owing to the large quantities of decayed 
matter which is washed into it by the rains, and is then 
left to corrupt in it. A weak effort has been made 
to clear the neighbourhood for providing a place for 
cultivation, but to the dire task of wood-chopping and 
jungle-clearing the settlers prefer occupying an open 
glade, which they clear of grass, so as to be able to 
hoe up two or three inches of soil, into which they cast 
their seed, confident of return. 

To induce my readers to open the map which I have 
prepared, and which accompanies this book, I must 
state that the route traversed by me was never traversed 
by a wdiite man previously. If they will also take the 
trouble of ascertaining the route undertaken by Buitoii 



1 



Mabch, 1871.] TIIROUOE UKWERE, ETC., TO USEGUIIHA. 83 

and Speke, subsequently by Speke and Grant, tliere 
will be found to be a wide difference between mine 
and that of my predecessors. On Burton's map, the 
country, for five degrees of longitude directly west of 
Bagamoyo, is entirely barren of towns and villages and 
settlements ; on my map this deficiency is supplied, and 
tlius little by little the great lieart of Africa is becoming 
better known. Whatever may be discovered by me on 
this route, to white men hitherto unknown or unverified, 
I beg to lay claim even to that little as its discoverer. 
My object in tendering this request is that a certain 
travelled gentleman at Zanzibar, who has been residing 
there some years, tried to deter me from proceeding by 
this road, by stating that such a journey would be 
totally devoid of interest, as the whole country was 
well known. His motives were most generous, he 
would have wished that I should ascend the Rufiji 
River, so that it might become known to geographer-s. 
From my heart I wished that I could, but circumstances 
forbade the effort. I was sent out on an errand, not 
as a discoverer, and the quickest and shortest method 
of fulfilling my duty was to be my study. If that 
quickest and shortest method took me along a well- 
known road traversed by three gentlemen, each of 
whom has written what he knows of it, the blame or 
fault is not mine ; but as it has proved that it took 
me along an untravelled road, tbrough a hitherto \u\- 
known country, so much the more fortunate am I. I 
excluded the Rufiji route from my mind as being 
totally impracticable with my means, and preferred to 
choose the road through Ukwere, Ukami, Udoe, 
Useguhha, Usagara, and Northern Ugogo ; the result 
and duration of the march proves that I could not have 
bettered myself, it being a direct western course. 



84 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, 

Tbe next day was a halt at Kikoka ; the fourth 
caravan, consisting solely of Wanyamwezi, proving a 
sore obstacle to a rapid advance. Maganga, its chief, 
devised several methods of extorting more cloth and 
presents from me, he having cost already more than 
aijy three chiefs together, but his efforts were of no 
avail further than obtaining promises of reward if he 
would hurry on to Unyanyembe so that I might find 
my road clear. 

On the 27th, the Wanyamwezi having started, we 
broke camp soon after at 7 a.m. The country was of 
the same nature as that lying between the Kingani 
and Kikoka — a park land, attractive and beautiful in 
every feature. 

I rode in advance to secure meat should a chance 
present itself, but not the shadow of vert or venison did 
I see. Ever in our front — westerly — rolled the land- 
waves, now rising, now subsiding, parallel one with 
the other like a ploughed field many times magnified. 
Each ridge had its knot of jungle or its thin combing 
of heavily foliaged trees, until we arrived close to 
Rosako, our next halting place, when the monotonous 
wavure of the land underwent a change, breaking into 
independent hummocks clad with dense jungle. On 
one of these, veiled by an impenetrable jungle of thorny 
acacia, rested Rosako, girt round by its natural fortifica- 
tion, neighbouring another village to the north of it 
similarly protected. Between them sank a valley ex- 
tremely fertile and bountiful in its productions, bisected 
by a small stream which serves as a drain to the valley 
or low hills surrounding it. 

Rosako is the frontier village of Ukwere, while 
Kikoka is the north-western extremity of Uzaramo. 
We entered this village, and occupied its centra] 



i 



Mabch, 1871.] THBOUQH UKWERE, ETC., TO USEGUBHA. 86 

portion with our tents and animals. A kitanda, or 
square light bedstead, without valance, fringe, or 
any superfluit}^ whatever, but nevertheless quite as 
comfortable as with them, was brought to my tent for 
my use by the village chief. The animals were, imme- 
diately after being unloaded, driven out to feed, and 
the soldiers to a man set to work to pile the baggage up, 
lest the rain, which during the Masika season always 
appears imminent, might cause irreparable damage. 

Among other experiments which I was about to try in 
Africa was that of a good watch-dog on any unmannerly 
people who would insist upon coming into my tent at 
untimely hours and endangering valuables. Especially 
did I wish to try tlie effect of its bark on the mighty 
Wgogo, who, I was told by certain Arabs, would lift the 
door of the tent and enter whether you wished them or 
not ; who would chuckle at the fear they inspired, and 
say to you, " Hi, hi, white man, I never saw the like of 
you before ; are there many more like you ? where do 
you come from ?" Also would they take hold of your 
watch and ask you with a cheerful curiosity, " What 
is this for, white man ?" to which you of course would 
reply that it was to tell you the hour and minute. But 
the Wgogo, proud of his prowess, and more unmannerly 
than a brute, would answer you with a snort of iiisult, 
saying, '* Oh, you fool !" or, " You be damned for a 
liar!" I thought of a watch-dog, and procured a good 
one at Bombay not only as a faithful companion, but to 
threaten the heels of just such gentry. 

But soon after our arrival at Rosako it wa> found 
that the dog, whose name was " Omar," given him from 
his Turkish origin, was missing ; he had strayed away 
from the soldiers during a rain-squall and had got 
lost. I despatched Mabruki Burton back to Kikoka to 



86 rWW I FOUND LIVINOSTOJS il. 

search for liim. On the following morning, just 
as we were about to leave Rosako, the faithful fellow 
returned with the lost dog, having found him at 
Kikoka. 

Previous to our departure on the morning after this, 
Maganga, chief of the fourth caravan, brought me the un- 
happy report that three of his pngazis were sick, and he 
would like to have some " dowa " — medicine. Though 
not a doctor, or in any way connected with the pro- 
fession, I had a well-supplied medicine chest — without 
which no traveller in Africa could live — for just such a 
contingency as was now present. On visiting Maganga's 
sick men, I found one suffering from inflammation of 
the lungs, another from the Mukunguru (African inter- 
mittent), and the third from a venereal affection. They 
all imagined themselves about to die, and called loudly 
for " Mama !" '' Mama !" though they were all grown 
men. It was evident that the fourth caravan could not 
stir that day, so leaving word with Maganga to hurry 
after me as soon as possible, I issued orders for the 
march of my own. 

Excepting in the neighbourhood of the villages which 
we have passed there were no traces of cultivation. 
The country extending between the several stations 
is as much a wilderness as the desert of Sahara, though 
it possesses a far more pleasing aspect. Indeed, had 
the first man at the time of the Creation gazed at his 
world and perceived it of the beauty which belongs to 
this part of Africa, he would have had no cause of com- 
plaint. In the deep thickets, set like islets amid a sea 
of grassy verdure, he would have found shelter from 
the noonday heat, and a safe retirement for himself and 
spouse during the awesome darkness. In the morning 
he could have walked forth on the sloping sward, 



March, 1871.] THROUQU UKWEBE, ETC., TO USEOUUHA. 87 

snjojed its freshness, and performed his ablutions in 
one of the many small streams flowing at its foot. His 
garden of fruit-trees is all that is required ; the noble 
forests, deep and cool, are round about him, and in their 
shade walk as many animals as one can desire. For 
days and days let a man walk in any direction, north, 
south, east, and west, and he will behold the same scene. 

Earnestly as I wished to hurry on to Unyanyembe, 
still a heart-felt anxiety about the arrival of mj 
goods carried by the fourth caravan, served as a 
drag upon me, and before my caravan had marched 
nine miles my anxiety had risen to the highest pitch, 
and caused me to order a camp there and then. The 
place selected for it was near a long straggling sluice, 
having an abundance of water during the rainy season, 
draining as it does two extensive slopes. No sooner 
had we pitched our camp, built a boma of thorny 
acacia, and other tree branches, by stacking them 
round our camp, and driven our animals to grass, than 
we were made aware of the formidable number and 
variety of the insect tribe, which for a time was another 
source of anxiety, until a diligent examination of the 
several species dispelled it. 

As it was a most interesting hunt which I instituted 
for the several specimens of the insects, I here append 
the record of it for what it is worth. My object in 
obtaining these specimens was to determine whether 
the genus Glossina morsitans of the naturalist, or the 
tsetse (sometimes called setse) of Livingstone, Yardon, 
Gumming, and Kirk, said to be deadly to horses, was 
amongst them. I wished to preserve my two horses, if 
possil)le ; but Dr. Kirk had, with all the enthusiasm 
and dogmatism of a hobbyist, foretold the certain death 
of my horses from the tsetse fly, which, he said, 



9S EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, 

abounded in great numbers in the country west of 
Bagamoyo. Up to this date I had been nearly two 
months in East Africa, and had as yet seen no tsetse ; 
and my horses, instead of becoming emaciated — for 
such is one of the symptoms of a tsetse bite — had con- 
siderabl\- improved in condition. There were three 
different species of flies which sought shelter in my 
tent, wliich, unitedly, kept up a continual chorus of 
sounds — one performed the basso profondo, another a 
tenor, and the third a weak contralto. The first 
emanated from a voracious and fierce fly, an inch long, 
having a ventral capacity for blood quite astonishing. 

The terrible fears engendered by Dr. Kirk's asser- 
tion made it out to be the tsetse, so this was the one 
chosen for the first inspection, which was of the intensest. 
I permitted one to alight on my flannel pyjamas, which 
I wore while en deshabille in camp. No sooner had he 
alighted than his posterior was raised, his head lowered, 
and his weapons, consisting of four hair-like styles, 
unsheathed from the proboscis-like bag which concealed 
them, and immediately I felt pain like that caused by 
a dexterous lancet-cut or the probe of a fine needle. I 
permitted him to gorge himself, though my patience 
and naturalistic interest were sorely tried. I saw his 
abdominal parts distend with the plentitude ( f the 
repast until it had swollen to three times its former 
shrunken girth, when he flew away of his own accord 
laden with blood. On rolling up my flannel pyjamas 
to see the fountain whence the fly had drawn the fluid, 
I discovered it to be a little above the left knee, by a 
crimson bead resting over the incision. After wiping 
the blood the wound was similar to that caused by a 
deep thrust of a fine needle, but all pain had vanished 
with the departure of the fly. 



March, 187i.] THROUGH UKWERE, ETC., TO USEQUHHA. 89 

Having caiiglit a specimen of this fly, I next pro- 
ceeded to institute a comparison between it and tlie 
tsetse, as described by Dr. Livingstone on pp. 5G-57, 
* Missionary Travels and Researches in South Africa ' 
(Murray's edition of 1868). The points of disagree- 
ment are many, and such as to make it entirely im- 
probable that this fly is the true tsetse, though my 
men unanimously stated that its bite was fatal to horses 
as well as to donkeys. A descriptive abstract of the 
tsetse would read thus : '' Not much larger than a 
common house-fly, nearly of the same brown colour as 
the honey-bee. After-part of the body has yellow bars 
across it. It has a peculiar buzz, and its bite is death 
to the horse, ox, and dog. On man the bite has no 
effect, neither has it on wild animals. When allowed 
to feed on the hand, it inserts the middle prong of three 
portions into which the proboscis divides, it then 
draws the prong out a little way, and it assumes a 
crimson color as the mandibles come into brisk opera- 
tion ; a slight itching irritation follows the bite." 

The fly which I had under inspection is called 
mabunga by the natives. It is much larger than the 
common house-fly, fully a third larger than the common 
honey-bee, and its color more distinctly marked ; its 
head is black, with a greenish gloss to it ; the after- 
part of the body is marked by a white line running 
lengthwise from its junction with the trunk, and on 
each side of this white line are two other lines, one of 
a crimson color, the other of a light brown. As for its 
buzz, there is no peculiarity in it, it might be mistaken 
for that of a honey-bee. \A'hen caught it made 
desperate efforts to get away, but never attempted to 
bite. This fly, along with a score of others, attacked 
my grey horse, and bit it so sorely in the legs that the^^ 



90 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

appeared as if bathed in blood. Hence, I might have 
been a little vengeful if, with more than tlie zeal of an 
entomologist, I caused it to disclose whatever pecu- 
liarities its biting parts possessed. 

In order to bring this fly as life-like as possible 
before my readers, I may compare its head to a most 
tiny miniature of an elephant's, because it has a black 
proboscis and a pair of horny antennse, which in color 
and curve resemble tusks. The black proboscis, how-, 
ever, is simply a hollow sheath, which encloses, when 
not in the act of biting, four reddish and sharp lancets. 
Under the microscope these four lancets differ in thick- 
ness, two are very thick, the third is slender, but the 
fourth, of an opal color and almost transparent, is 
exceedingly fine. This last musi: be the sucker when 
the fly is about to wound, the two horny antennse are 
made to embrace the part, the lancets are unslieathed, 
and on the instant the incision is performed. This I 
consider to be the African " horse-fly." 

The second fly, which saug the tenor note, more 
nearly resembkd in size and description the tsetse. It 
was exceedingly nimble, and it occupied three soldiers 
nearly an hour to capture a specimen ; and, when it was 
finally caught, it stung most ravenously the hand, and 
never ceased its efforts to attack until it was pinned 
through. It had three or four white marks across the 
after-part of its body ; but the biting parts of this fly 
consisted of two black antennae and an opal colored 
style, which folded away under the neck. When about 
to bite this style was shot out straight, and the antennae 
embraced it closely. After death the fly lost its dis- 
tinctive white marks. Only one of this species did we 
see at this camp. 

The third fly, called " chufwa," pitched a weak alto- 



^Iarch, 1871.] THROUGH UKWERE, ETC., TO USEGUUnA. 91 

crescendo note, was a third larger tlian the house fly, and 
had long wings. If this insect sang the feeblest note, 
it certainly did the most work, and inflicted the most 
injury. Horses and donkeys streamed with blood, and 
reared and kicked through the j^ain. So determined 
was it not to be driven before it obtained its fill, that 
it was easily despatched ; but this dreadful enemy to 
cattle constantly increased in numbers. The three 
species above named are, according to natives, fatal to 
cattle ; and this may perhaps be the reason why such a 
vast expanse of first-class pasture is without domestic 
cattle of any kind, a few goats only being kept by 
the villagers. This fly 1 subsequently found to be the 
" tsetse." 

On the second morning, instead of proceeding, I 
deemed it more prudent to await the fourth caravan. 
Burton experimented sufficiently for me on the pro- 
mised word of the Banyans of Kaole and Zanzibar, 
and had to wait eleven months before he received the 
promised articles. As I did not expect to be much 
over that time on my errand altogether, it would be 
ruin, absolute and irremediable, should I be detained 
at Unyanyembe so long a time by my caravan. 
Pending its arrival, I sought the pleasures of the chase. 
I was but a tyro in hunting, I confess, though I had 
shot a little on the plains of America and Persia, yet 
I considered myself a fair shot ; and on game ground, 
and within a reasonable proximity to game, I doubted 
not but I could bring some to camp. 

After a march of a mile through the tall grass of the 
open, we gained the glades between the jungles. Un- 
successful here, after ever so much prying into fine 
hiding-places and lurking corners, I struck a trail well 
traversed by small antelope and hartebeest, which we 
followed. It led me into a jungle, and down a water- 



92 EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

course bisecting it ; but, after following" it for an hour. 
I lost it, and, in endeavouring to retrace it, lost my 
way. However, my pocket- compass stood me in good 
stead ; and by it I steered for the open plain, in the 
centre of which stood the camp. But it was terribly 
hard work — this of plunging through an African 
jungle, ruinous to clothes, and trying to the cuticle. 
In order to travel quickly, I had donned a pair of 
flannel pyjamas, and my feet were encased in canvas 
shoes. As might be expected, before I had gone a few 
paces a branch of the acacia horrida — only one of a 
hundred such annoyances — caught the right leg of my 
pyjamas at the knee, and ripped it almost clean off; 
succeeding which a stumpy kolquall caught me by the 
shoulder, and another rip was the inevitable conse- 
quence. A few yards farther on, a prickly aloetic 
plant disfigured by a wide tear the other leg of my 
pyjamas, and almost immediately I tripped against a 
convolvulus strong as ratline, and was made to measure 
my length on a bed of thorns. It was on all fours, like 
a hound on a scent, that I was compelled to travel ; my 
solar topee getting the worse for wear every minute ; 
my skin getting more and more wounded ; my clothes 
at each step becoming more and more tattered. Besides 
these discomforts, there was a pungent, acrid plant, 
which, apart from its strong odorous emissions, struck 
me smartly on the face, leaving a burning effect similar 
to cayenne ; and the atmosphere, pent in by the density 
of the jungle, was hot and stifling, and the perspiration 
transuded through every pore, making my flannel 
tatters feel as if I had been through a shower. When 
I had finally regained the plain and could breathe free, 
I mentally vowed that the penetralia of an African 
jungle should not be visited by me again, save under 
most urgent necessity. 



I 



March, 1871.] THROUGH VKWERE, ETC., TO U^EGUIUIA. 93 

Notwithstanding the ruthless rents in my clothes 
and my epidermal wounds, as I looked over the grandly 
undulating plain, lovely with its coat of green verdure, 
with its boundaries of noble woods, heavy with vernal 
leafage, and regarded the pretty bosky islets amid its 
wide expanse, I could not but award it its meed of 
high praise. Daily the country advanced in my estima- 
tion, for hitherto I felt that I was but obeying orders ; 
and sickly as it might be, I was in duty bound to 
go on ; but, for fear of the terrible fever, made more 
terrible by the feverish perspective created in my ima- 
gination by the embitterment of Capt. Burton's book, 
I vowed I would not step one foot out of my way. 
Shall I inform you, reader, what 'The Lake Regions 
of Central Africa,' and subsequently the reports of 
European merchants of Zanzibar, caused me to imagine 
the interior was like ? It was that of an immense 
swamp, curtained round about with the fever — "a 
species of Yellow Jack," which was sure, if it did not 
kill me outright, so to weaken body and brain as to 
render me for the future a helpless imbecile. In this 
swamp, which extended over two hundred miles into 
the interior, sported an immense number of hippopo- 
tami, crocodiles, alligators, lizards, tortoises, and toads ; 
and the miasma rising from this vast cataclysm of mud, 
corruptioiij and putrescence, was as thick and sorely 
depressing as the gloomy and suicidal fog of London. 
Ever in my mind in the foreground of this bitter 
picture were the figures of poor Burton and Speke, 
" the former a confirmed invalid, and the other perma 
nently affected " in the brain by this fever. The worm 
wood and fever tone of Capt. Burton's book I regarded 
as the result of African disease. But ever since my 
arrival on the mainland, day by day the pall-like 



94 ROW 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

curtain had been clearing away, and the cheerless 
perspective was brightening. We had been now two 
montlis on the East African soil, and not one of my 
men had been sick. The Europeans had gained in 
flesh, and their appetites were always in prime order. 

The second and third day passed without any news 
of Maganga. Accordingly, Shaw and Bombay were 
sent to hurry him up by all means. On the fourth 
morning Shaw and Bombay returned, followtd by the 
^procrastinating Maganga and his laggard people. Ques- 
tions only elicited an excuse that his men had been 
too sick, and he had feared to tax their strength before 
they were quite equal to stand the fatigue. Moreover 
he suggested that as they would be compelled to stay 
one day more at the camp, I might push on to Kin- 
garu and camp there, until his arrival. Acting upon 
which suggestion I broke camp and started for Kin- 
garu, distant five miles. 

On this march the land was more broken, and the 
caravan first encountered jungle, which gave consider- 
able trouble to our cart. Pieolitic limestone cropped out 
in boulders and sheets, and we began to imagine ourselves 
approaching healthy highlands, and as if to give con- 
firmation to the thought, to the north and north-west 
loomed the purple cones of Udoe, and topmost of all 
Dilima Peak, about 1,500 feet in height above the 
sea level. But soon after singeing into a bowl-like 
valley, green with tall corn, the road slightly deviated 
from north-west to west, the country still rolling before 
us in wavy undulations. 

In one of the depressions between these lengthy land- 
swells stood the village of Kingaru, with surroundings 
significant in their aspect of ague and fever. Perhaps 
the clouds surcharged with rain, and the overhanging 



Mabch, 1871.] THROUGH UKWERE, ETC., TO USEGUEHA. 96 

ridges and tlieir dense forests dulled by the gloom, made 
the place more than usually disagreeable, but my first 
impressions of the sodden hollow, pent in by those dull 
woods with the deep gully close by containing pools 
of stagnant water, were by no means agreeable. 

Before we could arrange our camp and set the tents 
up, down poured the furious harbinger of tlie Masika 
season, in torrents sufficient to damp the ardor and 
new-born love for East Africa I had lately manifested. 
However, despite rain, we worked on until our camp 
was finished and the property was safely stored from 
weather and thieves, and we could regard with resigna- 
tion the raindrops beating the soil into mud of a very 
tenacious kind, and forming lakelets and rivers of our 
camp-ground. 

Towards night, the scene having reached its acme 
of unpleasantness, the rain ceased, and the natives 
poured into camp from the villages in the woods with 
their vendibles. Foremost among these, as if in duty 
bound, came the village sultan — lord, chief, or head — 
bearing three measures of matama and half a measure 
of rice of which he begged, with paternal smiles, my 
acceptance. But under the smiling mask, bleared eyes, 
and wrinkled front of him was visible the soul of 
trickery, which was of the cunningest kind. Responding 
under the same mask adopted by this knavish elder, 
I said, " The chief of Kingaru has called me a rich 
sultan. If I am a rich sultan why comes not the chief 
with a rich present to me that he might get a rich 
return ?" Said he, with another leer of his wrinkled 
visage, '' Kingaru is poor, there is no matama in the 
village." To which I replied that since there was no 
matama in the village I would pay him half a shukka, 
or a yard of cloth, which would be exactly equivalent 



96 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

to his present ; that if he preferred to call his small 
basketful a present, I should be content to call my yard 
of cloth a present. With which logic he was fain to 
be satisfied. 

April \st. — To-day the Expedition suffered a loss in 
the death of the grey Arab horse presented by Syed 
Burghash, Sultan of Zanzibar. The night previous 
I had noticed that the horse was suffering. Bearing in 
mind what Dr. Kirk, acting British Consul at Zanzibar, 
had so frequently asserted, namely^ that no horses 
could live in the interior of Africa because of the tsetse, 
I had him opened, and the stomach, which I believed 
to be diseased, examined. Besides much undigested 
matama and grass there were found twenty-five short, 
thick^ white worms, sticking like leeches into the 
coating of the stomach, while the intestines were almost 
alive with the numbers of long white worms. I was 
satisfied that neither man nor beast could long exist 
with such a mass of corrupting life within him. 

In order that the dead carcase might not taint the 
valley, I had it buried deep in the ground, about a score 
of yards from the encampment. From such a slight 
cause ensued a tremendous uproar from Kingaru — 
chief of the village — who, with his brother-chiefs of 
neighbouring villages, numbering in the aggregate two 
dozen wattled huts, had taken counsel upoT] tlie best 
means of mulcting the Musungu of a full doti or two 
of Merikani, and finally had arrived at the conviction 
that the act of burying a dead horse in their soil with- 
out " By your leave, sir," was a grievous and fineable 
fault. Affecting great indignation at the unpardonable 
omission, he, Kingaru, concluded to send to the Musungu. 
four of his young men to say to him that " since you 
have buried your horse in my ground, it is well ; let 



April, 187].] THROUOH UKWERE, ETC., TO USEQUHHA, 97 

him remain there^ but you must pay me two doti of 
Merikani." For reply the messengers were told to say 
to the chief tliat I would prefer talking the matter over 
with himself face to face, if he would condescend to visit 
me in my tent once again. As the village was but a 
stone's throw from our encampment, before many 
minutes had elapsed the wrinkled elder made his 
appearance at the door of my tent with about half the 
village behind him. 

The following dialogue which took place will serve 
to illustrate the tempers of the people with whom I was 
about to have a year's trading intercourse : — 

WJiite Man. — " Are you the great chief of Kingaru?" 

Kingaru. — " Huh-uh. Yes." 

W. 31—" The great, great chief?" 

Kingaru. — " Huh-uh. Yes." 

W, M, — " How many soldiers have you?" 

Kingaru—" Why ?" 

W, M. — " How many fighting men have you ?" 

Kingaru. — '' None." 

W. M. — " Oh ! I thought you might have a thou- 
sand men with you, by your going to fine a strong 
white man, who has plenty of guns and soldiers, two 
doti for burying a dead horse." 

Kingaru (rather perplexed). — '' No ; I have no 
soldiers. I have only a few young men." 

W, M. — " Why do you come and make trouble, 
then r 

Kingaru. — " It was not I ; it was my brothers who 
said to me, ' Come here, come here, Kingaru, see 
what the white man has done ! Has he not taken 
possession of your soil, in that he has put his horse into 
your ground without your permission ? Come, go to 
fiim and see by what right.' Therefore have I come 

H 



98 EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

to ask yoii, who gave you permission to use my soil for 
a burying-ground ?" 

W. M, " I want no man's permission to do what is 
right. My horse died; had I left him to fester and 
stink in your valley, sickness would visit your village, 
your water would become unwholesome, and caravans 
would not stop here for trade; for they would say^ 'This 
is an unlucky spot, let us go away.' But enough said ; 
I understand you to say that you do not want him 
buried in your ground ; the error I have fallen into is 
easily put right. This minute my soldiers shall dig 
him out again, and cover up the soil as it was before ; 
and the horse shall be left where he died." (Then 
shouting to Bombay.) " Ho ! Bombay, take soldiers 
with jembes to dig my horse out of the ground, drag 
him to where he died, and make everything ready for a 
march to-morrow morning." 

Kingaru, his voice considerably higher, and his head 
moving to and fro with emotion, cries out, " Akuna, 
akuna, Bana !" — " No, no, master ! Let not the white 
man get angry. The horse is dead, and now lies 
buried ; let him remain so, since he is already there, 
and let us be friends again." 

The Sheikh of Kingaru being thus brought to his 
senses, we bid each other the friendly " quahary," and 
I was left alone to ruminate over my loss. Barely 
half an hour had elapsed, it was 9 p.m., the camp was 
in a semi-doze, when I heard deep groans issuing from 
one of the animals. Upon inquiry as to what animal 
was suffering, I was surprised to hear that it was my 
bay horse. With a bull's-eye lantern, I visited him, 
and perceived that the pain was located in the stomach, 
but whether it was from some poisonous plant he had 
eaten while out grazing, or from some equine disease. 



April, 1871.] THROUGH UKWERE, ETC., TO USEGUTinA. 99 

T did not know. He discharged copious quantities of 
loose matter, but there was nothing peculiar in its 
color. The pain was evidently very great, for the 
groans were truly piteous, and his struggles very 
violent. I was up all night, hoping that it was but a 
temporary effect of some strange and noxious plant ; 
but at 6 o'clock the next morning, after a short period 
of great agony, he also died ; exactly fifteen hours 
after his companion. When the stomach was opened, 
it was found that deatli was caused by the internal 
rupture of a large cancer, which had affected the larger, 
half of the coating of his stomach, and had extended an 
inch or two up the larynx. The contents of the 
stomach and intestines were deluged with the yellow 
viscous efflux from the cancer. 

I was thus deprived of both my horses, and that 
within the short space of fifteen hours. With my limited 
knowledge of veterinary science, however strengthened 
by the actual and positive proofs obtained by the 
dissection of the two stomachs, I can scarcely dare con- 
tradict the assertion of Dr. Kirk, and state that horses 
can live to reach Unyanyembe, or that they can travel 
with ease through this part of East Africa. But should 
I have occasion at some future day I should not hesitate 
to take four horses with me, though I should certainly 
endeavour to ascertain previous to purchase whether 
they were perfectly sound and healthy, and to those 
travellers who cherish a good horse I would say, " Try 
one," and be not discouraged by my unfortunate 
experiences. 

The 1st, 2nd, and 3rd of April passed, and nothing 
had we heard or seen of the ever-lagging fourth caravan 
In the meanwhile the list of casualties was being aug- 
mented. Besides the loss of this precious time, through 

H 2 



Lore. 



100 IWW 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE, 

the perverseness of the chief of the other caravan, and the 
loss of my two horses, a pagazi carrying boat-fixtnres 
improved the opportunity, and deserted. My interpreter, 
Selim, was struck down with a severe attack of ague and 
fever, and was soon after followed by the cook, then 
by the assistant cook and tailor, Abdul Kader. Finally, 
before tlie third day was over, Bombay had rheumatism, 
Uledi (Grant's old valet) had a swollen throat, Zaidi 
had the flux, Kingaru had the Muknnguru ; Khamisi, a 
pagazi, suffered from a weakness of the loins ; Farjalla 
had a bilious fever ; and before night closed Makoviga 
had diarrhoea. My meditated rush towards Unyanyembe, 
and rapid transit through the dread maritime region, 
seemed destined to end somewhat similarly to the rush 
upon Magdala which Dr. Austin, of the London 
''Times," so particularly urged upon Sir Robert Napier 
in Abyssinia. Out of a force of twenty-five men one had 
deserted, and ten were on the sick-list, and the presenti- 
ment that the ill-looking neighbourhood of Kingaru 
would prove calamitous to me, was verified. 

On the 4th April, Maganga and his people appeared, 
after being heralded by musketry-shots and horn- 
blowing, the usual signs of an approaching caravan in 
this land. His sick men were considerably improved, 
but they required one more day of rest at Kingaru. 
In the afternoon he came to lay siege to my generosity, 
by giving details of Soor Hadji Palloo's heartless 
cheats upon him ; but I informed him, that since I had 
left Bagamoyo, I could no longer be generous ; we were 
now in a land where cloth was at a high premium ; that 
I had no more cloth than I should need to furnish food 
for myself and men ; that he and his caravan had cost 
me more money and trouble than any three caravans I 
had, as indeed was the case. With this counter-state- 



April, 1871.] THROUGH UKWERE, ETC., TO USEGUHHA. 101 

merit be was obliged to be content. But I again solved 
his pecuniary doubts by promising that, if he liurried 
his caravan on to Unyanyembe, he should have no 
cause of complaint. 

The 5t]i of April saw the fourth caravan vanish for 
once in our front, with a fair promise that, however 
fast we should follow, we should not see them the 
hither side of Sinbamwenni. 

The following morning, in order to rouse my people 
from t1ie sickened torpitude they had lapsed into, I beat 
an exhilarating alarum on a tin pan witli an iron ladle, 
intimating that a sofari was about to be undertaken. 
This had a very good effect, judging from the extra- 
ordinary alacrity with which it was responded to. 
Before the sun rose we started. The Kingaru villagers 
were out with the velocity of hawks for any rags or 
refuse left behind us. 

The long march to Imbiki, fifteen miles, proved that 
our protracted stay at Kingaru had completely demo- 
ralized my soldiers and pagazis. Only a few of them 
had strength enough to reach Imbiki before night. The 
others, attending the laden donkeys, put in an appear- 
ance next morning, in a lamentable state of mind and 
body. Khamisi — the pagazi with the weak loins — had 
deserted, taking with him two goats, the property tent, 
and the whole of Uledi's personal wealth, cunsisting 
of his visiting dish-dasheh — a Jong shirt of the 
Arabic pattern, 10 lbs. of beads, and a few fine cloths, 
which Uledi, in a generous fit, had entrusted to him, 
while he carried the pagazi's load, 70 lbs. of Bubu beads. 
This defalcation was not to be overlooked, nor should 
Khamisi be permitted to return without an effort to 
apprehend him. Accordingly Uledi and Fera^jji were 
despatched in pursuit while we rested at Imbiki, in 



102 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

order to give the dilapidated soldiers and animals time 
to recruit. 

On the 8tl> we continued our journey, and arrived at 
Msuwa. This march v^ill be remembered by our caravan 
as the most fatiguing of all, though the distance was but 
len miles. It was one continuous jungle, except three 
interjacent glades of narrow limits, which gave us three 
breathing pauses in the dire task of jungle travelling. 
The odour emitted from its fell plants was so rank, so 
pun gently acrid, and the miasma from its decayed vege- 
tation so dense, that I expected every moment to see my- 
self and men drop down in paroxysms of acute fever. 
Happily this evil was not added to that of loading and 
unloading the frequently falling packs. Seven soldiers 
to attend seventeen laden donkeys were entirely too 
small a number while passing through a jungle ; for 
while the path is but a foot wide, with a wall of thorny 
plants and creepers bristling on each side, and pro- 
jecting branches darting across it, with knots of spikey 
twigs stiff as spike-nails, ready to catch and hold any- 
thing above four feet in height, it is but reasonable to 
suppose that donkeys standing four feet high, with 
loads measuring across from bale to bale four feet, would 
come to grief. This grief was of frequent recurrence 
here, causing us to pause every few minutes for re- 
arrangements. So often had this task to be performed, 
that the men got perfectly discouraged, and had to be 
spoken to sharply before they set to work. By the time 
I reached Msuwa there was nobody with me and the 
ten donkeys I drove, but Mabruk the Little, who, 
though generally stolid, stood to his work like a 
man. Bombay and Uledi were far behind, with the 
most jaded donkeys. Shaw was in charge of the cart, 
and his experiences were most bitter, as he informed 



Apbil, 1871.] THROUOH UKWERE, ETC., TO UlSEGUHHA. lOS 

me he had expended a whole vocabulary of stormy 
abuse known to sailors, and a new one which he had 
invented extempore. He did not arrive until two o'clock 
next morning, and was completely worn out. Truly I 
doubt if the most pious divine, in travelling through 
that long jungle under such circumj; tances, with such 
oft-i'ecurring annoyances and Sisyphean labor, could 
have avoided cursing his folly for coming hither. How 
in this difficult march 1 regretted my former easy 
circumstances — the soft repose of my too easy chair in 
Madrid ! The man who first said that travelling was 
a fool's paradise must certainly have been inspired by 
the experiences of a similar day to this. 

Another halt was fixed at Msuwa that we and our 
animals might recuperate. The chief of the village, a 
white man in everything but color, sent me and mine 
the fattest broad-tailed sheep of his flock, with five 
measures of matama grain. The mutton was excellent, 
unapproachable. For his timely and needful present 
I gave him two doti, and amused him with an exhibi- 
tion of the wonderful mechanism of the Winchester 
rifle, and my breechloading revolvers. 

He and his people were intelligent enough to com- 
prehend the utiHty of these weapons at an emergency, 
and illustrated in expressive pantomime the powers 
they possessed against niunbers of people armed only 
with spears and bows, by extending their arms with 
an imaginary gun and describing a clear circle. 
" A'erily," said they, " the Wasungu are far wiser 
than tlie Washensi. What heads they have! What 
AN^onderfiil things they make ! Look at their tents, 
their guns, their time-pieces, their clothes, and that 
little rolling thing (the cart) which carries more than 
five men, — que !*' 



104 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

On the lOth, recovered from the excessive strain of 
the last march, my caravan marched out of Msuwa, 
accompanied by the hospitable villagers as far as their 
stake defence, receiving their unanimous " quaharys." 
Outside the village the march promised to be less 
ardiious than between Imbiki and Msuwa. After 
crossing a beautiful little plain intersected by a dry 
gully or mtoni, the route led by a few cultivated 
fields, where tlie tillers greeted us with one grand 
unwinking stare, as if fascinated. 

Soon after we met one of those sights common in 
this part of the world, to wit, a chained slave-gang, 
bound east. The slaves did not appear to be in any 
way down-h carter] ; on the contrary, they seemed imbued 
with the philosophic jollity of the jolly servant of 
Martin Chuzzlewit. Were it not for their chains, it 
would have been difficult to discover master froui 
slave ; tbe physiognomic traits were alike — the mild 
benignity with which we were regarded was equally 
visible on all faces. The chains were ponderous, they 
might have held elephants captive ; but as the slaves 
carried nothing but tbemselves, their weight could not 
bave been in-upportable. 

The jungle was scant on this march, and though in 
some places the packs met with accidents, they were 
not such as seriously to retard progress. By 10 a.m. 
we were in camp in the midst of an imposing view of 
green sward and forest domed liy a cloudless sky. We 
had again pitched our camp in the wilderness, and, as 
is the custom of caravans, fired two shots to warn 
any Washensi having grain to sell, that we were willing 
to trade. 

Our next halting-place was Kisemo, distant but eleven 
miles from Msuwa, a village situated in a populous dis- 



April, 1871.] THROUGH UKWERE, ETC., TO USEOUHHA. 106 

trict, having in its vicinity no less than five other 
villages, each fortified by stakes and thorny abattis, 
with as much fierce independence as if tlieir petty lords 
were so many Percys and Douglases. Each topped a 
ridge, or a low hummock, with an assumption of defiance 
of the cock-on-its- own-dunghill type. Between these 
humble eminences and low ridges of land, wind narrow 
vales which are favored with the cultivation of matama 
and Indian corn. Behind the village flows the Unger- 
engeri River, an impetuous Tramontana during the 
Masika season, capable of overflowing its steep banks, 
but in the dry season it subsides into its proper status, 
which is that of a small stream of very clear sweet 
water. Its course from Kisemo is south-west, then 
easterly ; it is the main feeder of the Kingani River. 

The belles of Kisemo, of gigantic posterioral propor- 
tions, are noted for their vanity in brass wire, which is 
wound in spiral rings round tlieir wrists and ancles, 
and the varieties of style which their hispid heads 
exhibit ; while their poor lords, obliged to be contented 
with dingy torn clouts and split ears, show what wide 
sway Asmodeus holds over this terrestrial sphere — 
for it must have been an unhappy time when the 
hard-besieged husbands finally gave way before their 
hotly-pressing spouses. Besides tliese brassy ornaments 
on their extremities, and the various hair-dressing styles, 
the women of Kisemo frequently wear lengthy necklaces 
which run in rivers of colors down their black bodies. 

But a more comical picture is seldom presented than 
that of one of these highly-dressed females with the 
magnificent development alieady noted, engaged in the 
homely and necessary task of grinding corn for herself 
and family. The grinding a[)paratus consists of two 
portions : one, a thick pole of hard wood about six feet 



106 



HOW 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 



long, answering for a pestle ; the other, a capacious 
wooden mortar, three feet in height. Swaying with 
the pestle as it rises and falls the pectoral and pos- 
terioral exuberances alternate to her strokes in the very 




WOMAN GRINDING CORN, 



drollest rhythm ; so strongly marked that I feared for 
the walls of the hut before which I saw tlie corn- 
pounding going on. 

While engaged in setting his tent, Shaw was obliged 
to move a small flat stone, to drive a peg into the 
ground. The village chief, who saw him do it, rushed 
up in a breathless fashion, and replaced the stone 
instantly, then stood on it in an impressive manner, 
indicative of the great importance attached to that 
stone and location. Bombay seeing Shaw standing in 
silent wonder at the act, volunteered to ask the chief 
what was the matter. The Sheikh solemnly answered, 
with a finger pointing downward^, " Uganga !" Where- 



April, 1871.] THROUGH UKWERE, ETC., TO USEOUHHA. 107 

upon I implored him to let me see what was under the 
stone. With a graciousness quite affecting he complied. 
My curiosity was gratified with the sight of a small 
whittled stick, which pinned fast to the ground an 
insect, the cause of a miscarriage to a young female 
of the village. 

During the afternoon, Uledi and Ferajji, who had 
been despatched after the truant Khamisi, returned with 
him and all the missing articles. Khamisi, soon after 
leaving the road and plunging into the jungle, where 
he was mentally triumphing in his booty, was met by 
some of the plundering Washensi, who are always on 
the qui vive for stragglers, and unceremoniously taken 
to their village in the woods, and bound to a tree 
preparatory to being killed. Khamisi said that he 
asked them why they tied him up, to which they 
answered, that they were about to kill him, because he 
was a Mgwana, whom they were accustomed to kill as 
soon as they were caught. But Uledi and Ferajji shortly 
after coming upon the scene, both well armed, put an 
end to the debates upon Khamisi's fate, by claiming 
him as an absconding pagazi from the Musungu's camp, 
as well as all the articles he possessed at the time of 
capture. The robbers did not dispute the claim for the 
pagazi, goats, tent, or any other valuable found with 
him, but intimated that they deserved a reward for 
apprehending him. The demand being considered just, 
a reward to the extent of two doti and a fundo or ten 
necklaces of beads was given. 

Khamisi, for his desertion and attempted robbery, 
could not be pardoned without first suffering punish- 
ment. He had asked at Bagamoyo, before enlisting in 
my service, an advance of $5 in money, and had 
received it ; and a load of Bubu beads, no heavier 



108 EOW 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

than a pagazi's load, had been given him to carry ; he 
had, therefore, no excuse for desertion. Lest I should 
overstep prudence, however, in punishing him, I con- 
vened a court of eight pagazis and four soldiers to sit in 
nidgmeiit, and asked them to give me their decision as 
to what should be done. Their unanimous verdict was 
that he was guilty of a crime almost unknown among 
the Wanyamwezi pagazis, and as it was likely to give 
bad repute to the Wanyamwezi carriers, they therefore 
sentenced him to be flogged with the " Great Master's " 
donkey whip. I then ordered him to be bound, and 
considering that by his act the pagazis had suffered in 
name, the soldiers, in the master's estimation, as efficient 
guards, Shaw in being reprimanded by me for not 
looking better after tlie stragglers, I ordered that each 
of the pagazis and soldiers and Shaw should punish 
him with one blow each, which was accordingly done. 
to poor Khamisi's crying sorrow. 

Before night arrived a small caravan of AYanguana, 
who brought with them a long letter from the kind- 
hearted American Consul at Zanzibar, as well as a file 
of late " Heralds," latest date of which was February 4. 
Among other gratifying intelligence found in them 
concerning the doings of Congress and the New York 
Legislature, and the revelations of startling crimes in 
America, was an account of President Grant's second 
levee, in which Jenkins described with laboured ver- 
bosity the toilets of the ladies who attended this notable 
reception ; how a lavender ostrich plume waved among 

the lovely grey curls of Mrs. ; how diamonds 

finished the magnificent toilet of Mrs. , that lady 

who presented such an imposing appearance ; how 

Mrs. had an overskirt with ruchings of crimson 

satin; liow Mrs. radiated a blaze of light from 



Apbil, 1871.] THnOUGH UKWEBE, ETC., TO USEGUTIIIA. 109 

her diamonds, as she moved along in royal purple 
satin ; and how the President, with the deep manly 
voice and the pair of searching grey eyes, was sacri- 
ficing himself for the sovereign people on this occasion 
of his second levee ; and much else of the same 
adulatory tenor. 

Looking up from this refreshing reading, I beheld 
my tent door crowded with the dark-skinned bodies of 
Kisemo's daughters, who had become lost in vain en- 
deavours to penetrate the mystery of those long sheets 
of paper over which I had been bending so long. So 
sudden and vast was the contrast between what my friend 
Jenkins had been describing, and this most real sight 
visible to my naked eyes, that it required a strong effort 
of mind and memory ^o recall what such grandly-dressed 
ladies were like, to decide where lay the difference 
between a " blonde beauty with a mass of glittering, 
golden hair, with eyes which vied with the lustre of 
her diamonds," and one of these plump black girls of 
twelve or thirteen, ripening into womanhood, with a 
cock's-comb of woolly hair on the top of her head, 
with the redundant luxuriance behind veiled but by two 
yards of old sheeting, with 3 lbs. of brass wire ornament 
on each limb, and streams of beads round her neck ; 
one out of the many who were attending mi/ levee in 
the natural glory and beauty of nakedness. But indeed 
and indeed there is a vast difference between my court 
and that of the President, which has such an able 
Jenkins for its reporter ! 

On the 12th the caravan reached Mussoudi, on the 
Ungerengeri river. Happily for our patient donkeys 
this march was free from all the annoying troubles of 
the jungle. Happily for ourselves also, for we had no 
more the care of the packs and the anxiety about 



no EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

arriving at camp before night. The packs once put 
firmly on the backs of our good donkeys, they marched 
into camp — the road being excellent — without a single 
displacement or cause for one impatient word. If 
the road to Unyanyembe were all like this I should 
consider it as comfortable as crossing over to Staten 
Island for a Sunday holiday, or riding in the horse- 
cars to Central Park. Take away the gravelled paths, 
the lakes and ponds, the museums within, the trellised 
arbors, the kiosk, the uniformed policemen and well- 
dressed visitors, — in short, all particulars and evidences 
of the presence of ripe civilization, and Central Park 
thus denuded, with only its refreshing lawns, gentle 
hollows, and grove-clad ridges, would present, to those 
who could imagine the New York park in this state, a 
not unfaithful image of the country which opened 
before us soon after leaving Kisemo. This beautiful 
prospect, glorious in its wild nature, fragrant with its 
numerous flowers and variety of sweetly-smelling 
shrubs, among which I recognised the wild sage, the 
indigo plant, &c., terminated at the foot of Kira Peak 
and sister cones, which mark the boundaries between 
Udoe and Ukami, yet distant twenty miles.. Those 
distant mountains formed a not unfit background to 
this magnificent picture of open plain, forest patches, 
and sloping lawns — there was enough of picturesque- 
ness and sublimity in the blue mountains to render it 
one complete whole. 

When drawing near the valley of Ungerengeri, 
granite knobs and protuberances of dazzling quartz 
showed their heads above the reddish soil. Descending 
the ridge where these rocks were prominent^ we found 
ourselves in the sable loam deposit of the Ungerengeri, 
and in the midst of teeming fields of sugar-cane and 



April, 1871.] THBOUGIl UKWERE, ETC, TO USEOUHHA. lU 

mataraa, Indian corn, muhogo, and gardens of curry, 
egg, and encumber plants. On the banks of the Un- 
gerengeri flonrished the banana, and overtopping it by 
seventy feet and more shot up the stately mparamusi, 
the rival in beauty of the Persian chenar and Abyssinian 
plane. Its trunk is straight and comely enough for 
the mainmast of a first-class frigate, while its ex- 
panding crown of leafage is distinguished from all 
others by its density and vivid greenness. There were 
a score of varieties of the larger kind of trees whose 
far- extending branches embraced across the narrow but 
swift river. The depressions of the valley and the 
immediate neighbourhood of the river were choked 
with young forests of tiger-grass and stiff reeds. 

Mussoudi is situated on a higher elevation than the 
average level of the village, and consequently looks 
down upon its neighbours, which number a hundred 
and more. It is the western extremity of Ukwere. On 
the western bank of the Ungerengeri the territory of 
the Wakami commences. We had to halt one day at 
Mussoudi because the poverty of the people prevented 
us from procuring the needful amount of grain. The 
cause of this scantiness in such a fertile and populous 
valley was, that the numerous caravans which had 
preceded us had drawn heavily for their stores for the 
up-marches. 

On the 14th we crossed the Ungerengeri, which here 
flows southerly to the southern extremity of the valley, 
where it bends easterly as far as Kisemo. After crossing 
the river here, fordable at all times and only twenty 
yards in breadth, we had another mile of the valley 
with its excessivly moist soil and rank growth of grass. 
It then ascended into a higher elevation, and led through 
a forest of mparamusi, tamarind, tamarisk, acjacia, and 



112 HOW I FOVND LIVINGSTONE. 

the blooming mimosa. This ascent was continued fc, r 
t\\^o hours, when we stood upon tlie spine of the largest 
ridge, where we conld obtain free views of the wooded 
plain below" and the distant ridges of Kisemo which we 
had but lately left. A descent of a few hundred feet 
terminated in a deep but dry mtoni with a sandy bed, 
on the other side of which we had to regain the eleva- 
tion we had lost, and a similar country opened into 
view until we found a newly-made boma with well- 
built huts of grass near a pool of water, which we at 
once occupied as a halting-place for the night. The 
cart gave us considerable trouble; not even our strongest 
donkey, though it carried with ease on its back 196 lbs. 
could draw the cart with a load of only 225 lbs. weight 
Earl}^ on the morning of the 15th we broke camp 
and started for Mikeseh. By 8.30 a.m. we were as- 
cending the southern face of the Kira Peak. When 
we had gained the height of two hundred feet above the 
level of the surrounding country, we were gratified 
with a magnificent view of a land whose soil knows no 
Sabbath, which, had Professor Malthus himself but 
seen, he had never penned that foolish pamphlet of his 
about legislating for the prevention of early marriages, 
and raved like " Adversity Hume " about over-crowded 
populations and certain ruin to England. If there are too 
many English-speaking people in any one place I have 
as much faith in them as the far-seeing editor of ' Noctes 
Ambrosianse ' had in " Brother Jonathan," and know 
that their stout elbows will make room somewhere, let 
the weal or woe of those who withstand them light 
where it may. There are plenty of Hengists and 
Horsas, Capt. John Smiths, and Pilgrim Fathers among 
the Anglo-Saxon race yet, and when America is filled 
up with their descendants, who shall say that Africa, 



April, 187L] THROUGH UKWERE, ETC., TO USEGUliHA. 113 

and especially this glorious part of it, shall not be tlieir 
next resting-place ? 

After travelling the spine of a ridge abutting against 
the southern slope of Kira we again descended into tlie 
little valley of Kiwrima, the first settlement we meet 
ni Udoe, where there is always an abundant supply of 
water. Two miles west of Kiwrima is Mikiseh. 

On the 16th we reached Ulagalla after a few hours' 
march. Ulagalla is the name of a district, or a portion 
of a district, lying between the mountains of Uruguru 
which bound it southerly, and the mountains of Udoe 
lying northerly and parallel with them, and but ten 
miles apart. The principal part of the basin thus 
formed is called Ulagalla. 

Muhalleh is the next settlement, and here we found 
ourselves in the territory of the Waseguhha. On this 
march we were hemmed in by mountains — on our left 
by those of Uruguru, on our right by those of Udoe 
and Useguhha — a most agreeable and welcome change 
to us after the long miles of monotonous level we had 
hitherto seen. When tired of looking into the depths 
of the forest that still ran on either side of the road, we 
had but to look up to the mountain's base, to note 
its strange trees, its plants and vari colored flowers, 
we had but to raise our heads to vary this pleasant 
occupation by observing the lengthy and sinuous spine 
of the mountains, and mentally report upon their out- 
line, their spurs, their projections and ravines, their 
bulging rocks and deep clefts, and, above all, the dark 
green woods clothing them from summit to base. And 
when our attention was not required for the mundane 
task of regarding the donkeys' packs, or the pace of 
the cautious-stepping pagazis, it was gratifying to watch 
the vapors play about the mountain summits — to see 

I 



114 ROW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, 

them fold into fleecy crowns and fantastic clusters, 
dissolve, gather together into a pall that threatened 
rain, and sail away again before the brightening sun. 

At Muhalleh was the fourth caravan under Maganga 
with three more sick men, who turned with eager eyes 
to myself, " the dispenser of medicine," as I approached. 
Salvos of small arms greeted me, and a present of rice 
and ears of Indian corn for roasting were awaiting my 
acceptance; but, as I told Maganga, 1 would have pre- 
ferred to hear that his party were eiglit or ten marches 
ahead. At this camp, also, we met Salim bin Rashid, 
bound eastward, with a huge caravan carrying three 
hundred ivory tusks. This good Arab, besides welcom- 
ing the new-comer with a present of rice, gave me news 
of Livingstone. He had met the old traveller at Ujiji, 
had lived in the next hut to him for two weeks, 
described him as looking old, with long grey mous- 
taches and beard, just recovered from severe illness, 
looking very wan ; when fully recovered Livingstone 
intended to visit a country called Manyema by way of 
Maruiigu. 

The valley of the Ungerengeri with Muhalleh 
exhibits wonderful fertility. Its crops of matama 
were of the tallest, and its Indian corn would rival 
the best crops ever seen in the Arkansas bottoms. The 
numerous mountain-fed streams rendered the great 
depth of loam very sloppy, in consequence of which 
several accidents occurred before w^e reached the camp, 
such as wetting cloth, mildewing tea, watering sugar, 
and rusting tools ; but prompt attention to these neces- 
sary things saved us from considerable loss. 

There was a slight difference noticed in the de- 
meanour and bearing of the Waseguhha compared with 
the Wadoe, Wakaiui, and Wakwere heretofore seen 



April, 1871.] THBOUOH UKWERE, ETC., TO USEGUHHA, 116 

There was none of that civility we had been until now 
pleased to note : their express desire to barter was 
accompanied with insolent hints that we ought to take 
their produce at their own prices. If we remonstrated 
they became angry; retorting fiercely, impatient of 
opposition, they flew into a passion, and were glib in 
threats. This strange conduct, so opposite to that of 
the calm and gentle Wakwere, may be excellently 
illustrated by comparing the manner of the hot-headed 
Greek with that of the cool and collected German. 
Necessity compelled us to purchase eatables of them, 
and, to the credit of the country and its productions be 
it said, their honey had the peculiar flavour of that of 
famed Hymettus. 

Following the latitudinal valley of the Ungerengeri, 
within two hours on the following morning we passed 
close under the wall of the capital of Useguhha — Sim- 
bamwenni. The first view of the walled town at the 
western foot of the Uruguru mountains, with its fine 
valley abundantly beautiful, watered by two rivers, and 
several pellucid streams of water distilled by the dew 
and cloud-enriched heights around, was one that we 
did not anticipate to meet in Eastern Africa. In 
Mazanderan, Persia, such a scene would have answered 
our expectations, but here it was totally unexpected. 
The town may contain a population of 3,000, having 
about 1,000 houses ; being so densely crowded perhaps 
5,000 would more closely approximate. The houses in 
the town are eminently African, but of the best type of 
construction. The fortifications are on an Arabic -Persic 
model — combining Arab neatness with Persian plan. 
Through a ride of 950 miles in Persia I never met a town 
outside of the great cities better fortified than Simbam- 
wenni. In Persia the fortifications were of mud, even 

I 2 



IIG now I FO UND LI VINO STONE, 

those of Kasvin, Taheran, Ispahan, and Shiraz ; those of 
Simbamwenni are of stone, pierced with two rows of 
loopholes for musketry. The area of the town is about 
half a square mile, its plan being quadrangular. Well- 
built towers of stone guard each corner ; four gates, one 
facing each cardinal point, and set half-way between the 
several towers, permit ingress and egress for its inhabi- 
tants. The gates are closed with solid square doors made 
of African teak, and carved with the infinitesimally 
fine and complicated devices of the Arabs, from which I 
suspect that the doors were made either at Zanzibar or 
on the coast, and conveyed to Simbamwenni plank by 
plank ; yet as there is much communication between 
Bagamoyo and Simbamwenni, it is just possible that 
native artisans are the authors of this ornate workman- 
ship, as several doors chiselled and carved in the same 
manner, though not quite so elaborately, were visible 
in the largest houses. The palace of the Sultan is after 
the style of those on the coast, with long sloping roof, 
wide eaves, and veranda in front. 

The Sultana is the eldest daughter of the famous 
Kisabengo, a name infamous throughout the neigh- 
bouring countries of Udoe, Ukami, Ukwere, Kingaru, 
Ukwenni, and Kiranga-Wanna, for his kidnapping pro- 
pensities. Kisabengo w^as another Theodore on a small 
scale. Sprung from humble ancestry, he acquired dis- 
tinction for his personal strengtli, his powers of harangue, 
and his amusing and versatile address, by which he 
gained great ascendency over fugitive slaves, aiid w^as 
chosen a leader among them. Fleeing from justice which 
awaited him at the hands of the Zanzibar Sultan, he 
arrived in Ukami, which extended at that time from 
Ukwere to Usagara, and here he commenced a career of 
conquest, the result of which was the cession by the 



April 1871.] THrxOUGII UKWERE, ETC., TO USEGUIIIIA. 117 

Wakami of an immense tract of fertile country, in 
the valley of the Ungerengeri. On its most desirable 
site, with the river flowing close under the walls, he 
built his capital, and called it Simbamwenni, whicli 
means " The Lion," or the strongest city. In old ng(3 
the successful robber and kidnapper changed his name 
of Kisabengo, which had gained such a notoriety, 
to Simbamwenni, after his town ; and wlien dying, 
after desiring that his eldest daughter should succeed 
him, he bestowed the name of the town upon her also, 
which name of Simbamwenni the Sultana now retains 
and is known by. 

While crossing a rapid stream, which, as I said 
before, flowed close to the walls, the inhabitants of 
Simbamwenni had a fine chance of gratifying their 
curiosity of seeing the "Great Musungu," whose several 
caravans had preceded him, and who unpardonably, be- 
cause unlicensed, had spread a report of his great wealth 
and power. I was thus the object of a universal stare. 
At one time on the banks there were considerably over 
a thousand natives going through the several tenses and 
moods of the verb " to stare," or exhibiting every phase 
of the substantive, viz. — the stare peremptory, insolent, 
sly, cunning, modest, and casual. The warriors of the 
Sultana, holding in one hand the spear, the bow, and 
sheaf or musket, embraced with the other their respec- 
tive friends, like so many models of Nisus and Euryalus, 
Theseus and Pirithous, Damon and Phintias, or Achilles 
and Patroclus, to whom they confidentially related their 
divers opinions upon my dress and color. The words 
" Musungu kuba " had as much charm for these 
people as the music of the Pied Piper had for the rats 
of Hamelin, since they served to draw from within 
the walls across their stream so large a portion of 



118 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

the population ; and when I continued the journej 
to the Ungerengeri, distant four miles, I feared that the 
Hamelin catastrophe might have to be repeated before 
I could rid myself of them. But fortunately for my 
peace of mind, they finnlly proved vincible under the 
hot sun, and the distance we had to go to camp. 

As we were obliged to overliaul the luggage, and 
repair saddles, as well as to doctor a few of the 
animals, whose backs had by this time become very 
sore, I determined to halt here two days. Provisions 
were very plentiful also at Simbamwenni, though com- 
paratively dear. 

On opening the Makanda-bound luggage, we found 
it to be much better than we had anticipated, 
considering the series of thorough drenchings it had 
lately stood ; it being now the full height of the Masika 
season. But several valuable things, such as cases 
of ammunition and gun-boxes and tea, had suffered, all 
of which I ascribed to Shaw's thoughtlessness in 
driving the donkeys across gulleys breast deep with 
water, when common prudence could have told him to 
unload. In calling Shaw to my tent to exhibit to him 
the loss, my gentleman flew into a passion, and charged 
me with requiring from him too much work, with 
being too fastidious, and impossible to please, with much 
else of the same tenor, ending his stormy reply with 
stating his intention to quit my service, and to return 
by the first caravan we should meet. Responding, I 
informed him that, as he had proved himself inefficient 
and careless, loving his ease better than work, I would 
■oppose no obstacle to his departure ; that he might 
depart that moment if he pleased, but must go without 
his personal baggage, which I should retain in lieu of 
the money advanced to him at Zanzibar. This perti- 



April, 1871.] THROUGH UK WEB E, ETC., TO USEOUBBA. 119 

nent annoimcement of my intention restored Shaw to 
his proper equilibrium, which he had somewhat lost 
during his wrathful mood ; and before many hours had 
elapsed he was purposely busy on my concerns, and 
peace was restored. 

On the second day I was, for the first time, made 
aware that my acclimatization in the ague -breeding 
swamps of Arkansas was powerless against the Mu- 
kunguru of East Africa. The premonitory symptoms 
of the African type were felt in my system at 10 a.m. 
First, general lassitude prevailed, with a disposition to 
drowsiness ; secondly, came the spinal ache which, com- 
mencing from the loins, ascended the vertebras, and 
extended around the ribs, until it reached the shoulders, 
where it settled into a weary pain ; thirdly, came a chil- 
liness over the whohi body, which was quickly followed 
by a heavy head, swimming eyes, and throbbing temples, 
with vague vision, which distorted and transformed all 
objects of sight. This lasted until 10 p.m., and the 
Mukunguru left me, much prostrated in strength. 

The remedy, applied for three mornings in succession 
after the attack, was such as my experience in Arkansas 
had taught me was the most powerful corrective, viz., 
a quantum of fifteen grains of quinine, taken in three 
doses of five grains each, every other hour from dawn 
to meridian — the first dose to be taken immediately 
after the first effect of the purging medicine taken at 
bed-time the night previous. I may add that this 
treatment was perfectly successful in my case, and in 
all others which occurred in my camp. After the 
Mukunguru liad declared itself, there was no fear, with 
such a treatment of it, of a second attack, until at least 
some days afterwards. 

On the third day the camp was visited by the ambaa- 



120 EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, 

sadors of Her Highness the Sultana of Slmbamwenni, 
who came as her representatives to receive the tribute 
which she regards herself as powerful enough to enforce. 
But they, as well as Madame Simbamwenni^ were in- 
formed, that as we knew it was their custom to charge 
owners of caravans but one tribute, and as they remem- 
bered the Musungu (Farquhar) had paid already, it 
was not fair that I should have to pay again. The 
ambassadors replied with a " Ngema " (very well), and 
promised to carry my answer back to their mistress. 
Though it was by no means " very well in fact," as it 
will be seen in a subsequent chapter how the female 
Slmbamwenni took advantage of an adverse fortune 
which befell me to pay herself. With this I close the 
chapter of incidents experienced during our transit 
across the maritime region. 



>^# 




PORTRAIT OF SHAW AND FARQUHAR. 



CHAPTER Y. 





TO UGOOO. 






USEGUHHA. 


h. 


m. 






h. 


m. 


Qgerengeri Eiver to — 








Eehenneko to — 






Simbo ..... 


2 







Camp on mountain . 3 


30 


Camp in plain . 


4 


10 




Kiora . 


. 3 


40 


Makata River . 


2 


30 




Camp on river . 
Madete . 


. 4 

. 2 


50 
30 


USAGARA. 








Lake Ugombo 


. 3 





Camp west of Makata 





5 




Matamombo 


. 6 





Camp in plain. 


4 


30 




Mpuapwa . 


. 7 





Camp , , . . 


2 







Kisokweh . 


. 2 





Eehenneko 


3 


15 




Cliunyo . 


. . 1 


30 


HR distance from 


Bagani 


0} 


^0 to Simbara 


wenni 


we 



found to be 119 miles, and was accomplished in four- 
teen marches. But these marches, owing to difficulties 
arising from the Masika season, and more especially to 
the lagging of the fourth caravan under Maganga, 
extended to twenty-nine days, thus rendering our 



122 ROW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

progress very slow indeed — but a little more than four 
miles a-daj. I infer, from what I have seen of the tra- 
velling, tliat had I not been encumbered by the sick 
Wanyamwezi porters, I could have accomplished the 
distance in sixteen days. For it was not tlie donkeys that 
proved recr?:int to my confidence ; they, poor animals, 
carr^ang a weight of 150 lbs. each, arrived at Simbam- 
wenni in first-rate order ; but it was Maganga, com- 
posed of greed and laziness, and his weakly-bodied, syphi- 
h'tic tribe, who were ever falling sick. In dry weather 
the number of marches might have been much reduced. 
Of the half-dozen of Arabs or so who preceded this 
Expedition along this route, two accomplished the 
entire distance in eight days. From the brief descrip- 
tions given of the country, as it day by day expanded 
to our view, enough may be gleaned to give readers 
a fair idea of it. But, casting a retrospective glance 
away from Simbamwenni to distant Bagamoyo on the 
coast, I know of one state in our country that might be 
very well compared to this tract in fertility, in physical 
contour, in its forests and bits of level prairie inclosed 
by tall woods, in its cones, in its ridges and grand 
undulations, verdure-clad — and that is Missouri. The 
elevation of Simbamwenni cannot be much over 1,000 
feet above the level, the rise of the land having been 
gradual. It being the rainy season, about which so 
many ominous statements were doled out to us by those 
ignorant of the character of the country, we naturally 
saw it under its worst aspect ; but, even in this adverse 
phase of it, with all its depth of black mud, its excessive 
dew, its dripping and chill grass, its density of rank 
jungle, and its crouching fevers, I look back upon the 
scene with pleasure, for the wealth and prosperity it 
promises to some civilized nation, which in some future 



Aphil, 1871.] TO UGOGO. 123 

time will come and take possession of it. A railroad 
from Bagamo^^o to Sirabamwenni miglit be constructed 
with as much ease and rapidity as, and at far less cost 
than the Union Pacific Railway, whose rapid strides 
day by day towards completion the world heard of and 
admired. A residence in this part of Africa, after a 
thorough system of drainage had been carried out, 
would not be attended with any more discomfort than 
generally follows upon the occupation of new land. The 
temperature at this season during the day never exceeded 
85° Fahrenheit. The nights were pleasant — too cold 
without a pair of blankets for covering ; and, as far as 
Simbamwenni, they were without that pest which is so 
dreadful on the Nebraska and Kansas prairies, the 
mosquito. The only annoyances I know of that would 
tell hard on the settler is the determined ferocity of 
the mabungu, or horse-fly, the chnfwa, &c., already 
described, which, until the dense forests and jungles 
were cleared, would be certain to render the keeping 
of domestic cattle unremunerative. 

Contrary to expectation the Expedition was not able 
to start at the end of two days ; the third and the fourth 
days were passed miserably enough in the desponding 
valley of Ungerengeri. This river, small as it is in the 
dry seasons, becomes of considerable volume and power 
during the Masika, as we experienced to our sorrow. 
It serves as a drain to a score of peaks and two long 
ranges of mountains ; winding along their base, it is the 
recipient of the cascades seen flashing during the few 
intervals of sunlight, of all the nullahs and ravines 
which render the lengthy frontage of the mountain 
slopes so rugged and irregular, until it glides into the 
valley of Simbamwenni a formidable body of water, 
opposing a serious obstacle to caravans without means 



124 ffOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

to build bridges ; added to which was an incessant 
downfall of rain — such a rain as shuts people in-doors 
and renders them miserable and unamiable — a real 
London rain — an eternal drizzle accompanied with mist 
and fog. When the sun shone it appeared but a pale 
image of itself, and old pagazis, wise in their traditions 
as old whaling captains, shook their heads ominously at 
the dull spectre, and declared it was doubtful if the 
rain would cease for three weeks yet. The site of the 
caravan camp on the hither side of the Ungerengeri 
was a hot-bed of malaria, unpleasant to witness — an 
abomination to memory. The filth of generations ot 
pagazis had gathered innumerable hosts of creeping 
things. Armies of black, white, and red ants infest the 
stricken soil ; centipedes, like worms, of every hue, 
clamber over shrubs and plants ; hanging to the under- 
growth are the honey-combed nests of yellow-headed 
wasps with stings as harmful as scorpions ; enormous 
beetles, as large as full-grown mice, roll dunghills over 
the ground ; of all sorts, shapes, sizes, and hues are the 
myriad-fold vermin with which the ground teems ; in 
short, the richest entomological collection could not vie 
in variety and numbers with the species which the four 
walls of my tent enclosed from morning until night. 

On the fifth morning, or the 23rd April, the rain 
gave us a few hours' respite, during which we managed 
to wade through the Stygian quagmire reeking with 
noisomeness to the inundated river-bank. The soldiers 
commenced at 5 a.m. to convey the baggage across from 
bank to bank over a bridge which was the most rustic 
of the rustic kind. Only an ignorant African would 
have been satisfied wiih its small utility as a means 
to cross a deep and rapid body of water. Even for light- 
fuotc'l Wanyamwezi pagazis it was anything but com* 



April, 1871.] TO UQOGO. 125 

fortable to traverse. Only a professional tight-rope 
performer could have carried a load across with ease. 
To travel over an African bridge requires^ first, a long 
leap from land to the limb of a tree (which may or may 
not be covered by water), followed by a long jump 
ashore. With 70 lbs. weight on his back, the carrier 
finds it difficult enough. Sometimes he is assisted by 
ropes extemporized from the long convolvuli which 
hang from almost every tree, but not always, these 
being deemed superfluities by the Washensi. 

Fortunately the baggage was transferred without a 
single accident, and thougli the torrent was strong, the 
donkeys were dragged through the flood by vigorous 
efforts and much objurgation without a casualty. This 
performance of crossing the Ungerengeri occupied fully 
five hours, though energy, abuse, and fury enough 
were expended for an army. 

Reloading and wringing our clothes dry, we set om 
from the horrible neighbourhood of the river, with its 
reek and filth, in a northerly direction, following a road 
which led up to easy and level ground. Two obtruding 
hills were thus avoided on our left, and after passing 
them we had shut out the view of the hateful valley. 

I always found myself more comfortable and light- 
hearted while travelling than when chafing and fretting 
in camp at delays which no effort could avoid, and 
consequently I fear tliat some things, while on a marcli, 
may be tinted somewhat stronger than their appearance 
or merit may properly warrant. But I thought that 
the view opening before us was much more agreeable 
than the valley of Simbamwenni with all its indescrib- 
able fertility. It was a series of glades opening one 
after another between forest clumps of young trees, 
hemmed in distantly by isolated peaks and scattered 



J26 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, 

mountains. Now and again, as we crested low emi- 
nences we caught sight of the blue Usagara mountains, 
bounding the horizon westerly and northerly, and looked 
down upon a vast expanse of plain which lay between. 

At the foot of the lengthy slope, well-watered by 
bubbling springs and mountain rills, we found a com- 
fortable khambi with well-made huts, which the natives 
call Simbo. It lies just two hours or five miles north- 
west of the Ungerengeri crossing. The ground is 
rocky, composed principally of quartzose detritus swept 
down by the constant streams. In the neighbourhood 
of these grow bamboo, the thickest of which was about 
two and a half inches in diameter ; the " myombo," a 
very shapely tree, with a clean trunk like an ash, the 
" imbite," with large, fleshy leaves like the " mtamba," 
sycamore, plum-tree, the " ugaza," or tamarisk^ and the 
" mgungu," a tree containing several wide branches 
with small leaves clustered together in a clump, and the 
silk-cotton tree. 

Though there are no villages or settlements in view 
of Simbo Khambi, there are several clustered within 
the mountain folds, inhabited by Waseguhha somewhat 
prone to dishonest acts and murder. 

On the morning of the 24th, as we were about to 
leave Simbo, an accident occurred which was the cause 
of much anxiety to me for many days. Bunder Salaam, 
a native of Malabar, employed as my cook, was caught 
for the fifth time pilfering the rations of my mess. 
His confederate and bosom-friend Abdul Kader, sub- 
cook, tailor, and supernumerary, and Selim the Arab 
boy, were the informers and witnesses, and, accord- 
ingly, after an impartial examination and forgive- 
ness for the fourth time, Shaw was ordered to 
administer to him one dozen lashes. The flogging was 



April, 1871.] FO UOOQO, 12? 

given to him over his clothes, and consequently was 
not very severe, and but reasonably adequate to the 
offence ; but the severest measure was his expulsion 
from camp, he and his donkey and kit, with the 
declaration that I would bear with no such incorrigible 
thief. I did not mean that he should be really driven 
away, and put at the mercy of every greedy Mshensi 
he should meet^ but I thought that a good scare would 
have a good effect in amending his evil propensities. 
But the cook took it in good earnest, and as soon as his 
hands were released he rushed out from camp towards 
the mountains without regarding hat, donkey, or pro- 
perty. Bombay and Abdul Kader used their lungs in 
vain to recall the fugitive. Bunder Salaam would not 
return, but, thinking that he might possibly do so, his 
donkey, with his property, was tied to a tree near the 
camp, while we proceeded on our march. 

The long broad plain visible from the eminences 
crossed between the Ungerengeri and Simbo was now 
before us, and became known to sorrowful memory sub- 
sequently, as the Makata Yalley. The initial march was 
from Simbo, its terminus at Eehenneko, at the base of 
the Usagara mountains, six marches distant. The valley 
commences with broad undulations, covered with young 
forests of bamboo, which grow thickly along the 
streams, the dwarf fan-palm, the stately Palmyra, and 
the mgungu. These undulations soon become broken by 
gulleys containing water, nourishing dense crops of cane 
reeds and broad-bladed glass, and, emerging from this 
district, wide savannahs covered with tall grass open 
into view, with an isolated tree here and there agree- 
ably breaking the monotony of the scene. The Makata 
is a wilderness containing but one village of the 
Waseguhha throughout its broad expanse. Venison, 



128 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

consequently, abounds within the forest dumps, and 
the kudu, hartebeest, antelope, and zebra may be seen at 
early dawn emerging into the open savannahs to feed. 
At night, the cyn-hyaena prowls about with its hideous 
clamour seeking for sleeping prey, man or beast. 

The slushy mire of the savannahs rendered marching 
a work of great difficulty ; its tenacious hold of the 
feet told terribly on men and animals. A ten-mile 
march required ten hours, we were therefore compelled 
to camp in the middle of this wilderness, and construct 
a new khambi, a measure which was afterwards adopted 
by half a dozen caravans. 

The cart did not arrive until nearly midniglit, and 
with it, besides three or four broken-down pagazis, 
came Bombay with the dolorous tale, that having put 
his load — consisting of the property tent, one large 
American axe_, his two uniform coats, his shirts, beads 
and cloth, powder, pistol and hatchet — on tlie ground, 
to go and assist the cart out of a quagmire, he had 
returned to the place where he had left it and could 
not find it, that he believed that some thieving 
Washensi, who always lurk in the rear of caiavans to 
pick up stragglers, had decamped with it. Which 
dismal tale told me at black midnight was not received 
at all graciously, but rather with most wrathful words, 
all of which the penitent captain received as his 
proper due. Working myself into a fury, i enume- 
rated his sins to him : he had lost a goat at Mulialleh, 
he had permitted Khamisi to desert with valuable 
property at Imbiki ; he had frequently shown culpable 
negligence in not looking after the donkeys, jdcj mit- 
ting them to be tied up at night without seeing that 
they had water, and in the mornings, when about to 
march, he preferred to sleep until 7 o'clock, rath^^if 



April, 1871.] TO UGOOO. 129' 

than wake up early and saddle the donkeys, that we 
might start at 6 o'clock ; he had shown of late great 
love for the fire, cowering like a bloodless raan before 
it, torpid and apathetic ; he had now lost the property- 
tent in the middle of the Masika season, by which 
carelessness tlie cloth bales would rot and become 
valueless; he had lost the axe which I should want 
at lljiji to construct my boat ; he had lost a pistol and 
hatchet, and a flaskful of the best powder ; and, finally, 
had come to camp without the cook, when he well 
knew that I never meant that the poor fellow should 
be driven out by himself to be murdered. Considering 
all these tilings, IjOw utterly incompetent he was to 
be captain, I would degrade him from his office and 
appoint Mabruki Burton instead. Uledi, also (Grant's 
valet), following the example of Bombay, instead of 
being second captain, should give no orders to any 
soldiers in future, but should himself obey those given 
by Mabiuki — the said Mabruki being worth a dozen 
Bombays, and two dozen Uledis ; and so he was dis- 
missed with orders to return at daylight to find the 
tent, axe, pistol, powder, and hatchet. 

The next morning the caravan, thoroughly fatigued 
with the last day's exertions, was obliged to halt. 
Bombay was despatched after the lost goods ; Kingaru, 
Mabruki the Great, and Mabruki the Little were de- 
spatched as far as Simbamwenni after the missing cook, 
and on their return with him were to bring back three 
doti-worth of grain, on which we were to subsist in the 
wilderness. 

Three days passed away and we were still at camp, 
awaiting, with what patience we possessed, the return 
of the soldiers sent after the foolish Hindi. In the 
meantime provisions ran very low, no game could be 

K 



180 SOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, 

procured, the birds were so wild. Two days' shooting 
procured but two potfulls of birds, consisting of grouse, 
quail, and pigeons. Bombay returned unsuccessfully 
froui liis search after the missing property, and suffered 
deep disgrace. 

On the fourth day I despatched Shaw with two more 
soldiers, to see what iiad become of Kingaru and the 
two Mabrukls. Towards night he returned completely 
prostrated, with a violent attack of the Mukunguru, or 
ague ; but bringing the missing soldiers, who were 
thus left to report for themselves. 

The summary of their report amounts to this : — 
On leaving our camp they had marched quickly to 
Simbo, which place they reached by 10 a.m. After 
searching the neigl)bourhood of our late khanibi at 
that place, for traces of Bunder Salaam, or of his 
donkey and property, and finding none, they decided 
to proceed straight to the Ungerengeri bridge, and 
make inquiries of its proprietors concerning the 
passengers who had crossed since the departure of the 
Musungu. At the bridge they heard that a white 
donkey, such as had been seen with the Musungu, 
crossed the river towards Simbamwenni ; but no 
Hindi in Kisungu clothes had been seen. My three 
ddsky detectives were spurred to quicker motion by 
this intelligence, believing without a doubt that the 
cook had been murdered by those Washensi, who 
were seen driving his donkey, with all tlie cook's 
property on its back. At Simbamwenni they arrived 
in short time, and to the wondering warriors at its 
westi'rn gate, they breathlessly imparted the intelli- 
gence that two Washensi, who must have passed their 
town driving a white donkey, had murdered a man 
m Kisungu clothes, belonging to the Musungu. The 



ApRn,, 1871.1 TO UOOGO. 131 

men of Siiiibamweinii coiidiictecl my messengers to 
the Sultana, to whom they told their story. The 
Sultana demanded of the watchmen of the towers if 
they had seen the two Washensi with the white 
donkey. The watchmen answered in the affirmative ; 
upon which she at once despatched twenty of her 
musketeers in pursuit to Muhalleh, who returned before 
night, bringing with them the two Wasliensi, and the 
donkey with the cook's entire kit. The Sultana, who 
is evidently possessed of her father's energy, with all 
his lust for wealth, had my messengers, the two 
Washensi, the cook's donkey and property, at once 
brought before her. The two Washensi were ques- 
tioned as to how they became ])ossessed of the donkey, 
and such a store of Kisungu clothes, cloth, and beads ; 
to which they answered that they had found the 
donkey tied to a tree, with the property on the ground 
close to it ; that seeing no owner or claimant anywhere 
in the neighbourhood, they thought they had a right 
to it, and accordingly had taken it with them. My 
soldiers were then asked if they recognized the donkey 
and property, to which question they unhesitatingly made 
answer that they did. They further informed Her 
Highness that they were not only sent after the donkey 
and property, but also after the owner, who had deserted 
their master's service ; they would like to know from 
the Washensi what they had done with him. Her 
Highness was also anxious to know what the Washensi 
had done with the Hindi, and accordingly, in order to 
elicit the fact, she charged them with murdering him ; 
and informed them, she but wished to know what they 
had done with the body. The Washensi declared most 
earnestly that they had spoken the truth, that they had 
never seen any such man as described ; and if the 

K 2 



132 now I FO UND LIVING S TON?:. 

Sultana desired It they would swear to such a state- 
ment. Her Highness did not wish them to swear to 
what she believed in her heart to be a lie ; but she 
would chain them, and send them in charge of a cara- 
van to Zanzibar to Syed Burghash, who would know 
what to do with them. Then turning to my soldiers, 
she demanded to know why the Musungii had not paid 
the tribute for w^iich she had sent her chiefs. The 
soldiers could not answer, knowing nothing of such 
concerns of their master. The heiress of Kisabengo, 
true to the character of her robber sire, then informed 
my trembling men, that as the Musungu had not paid 
the tribute, she would now take it ; their guns should 
be taken from them, together with that of tlie cook — 
the cloth and beads found on the donkey she would also 
take, the Hindi's personal clothes her chiefs should 
retain ; while they themselves should be chained until 
the Musungu himself should return to take them by 
force. And as she threatened, so was it done. For 
sixteen hours my soldiers w^ere in chains in the market- 
place, exposed to the taunts of the servile populace. 
It chanced the next day, however, that Sheikh Thani, 
whom I had met at Kingaru, and had since passed by 
five days, had arrived at Simbamwenni, and proceeding 
to the town to purchase provisions for the crossing of 
the Makata wilderness, saw my men in chains, and at 
once recognized them as being in my employ. After 
hearing their storj^, the good-hearted Sheikh sought the 
presence of the Sultana, and informed her that she was 
doing very wrong — a wrong that could terminate only 
in blood. '^ The Musungu is strong," he said, " very 
strong ; he has got two guns which shoot forty times 
without stopping, carrying bullets half an hour's 
distance ; he has got several guns which carry bullets 



Afbil, 1871.] TO UGOOO. 133 

that l)urst, and tear a man in pieces. He could go to 
the top of that mountain, and could kill every man, 
woman, and child in the town, hefore one of your 
soldiei's could reach the top. The road will then be 
stopped, Syed Burgliash will march against your 
country, the Wadoe and Wakami will come and take 
revenge on what is left ; and the place that your father 
made so strong will know the Waseguhha no more. 
Set free the Musungu's soldiers ; give them their food, 
and grain for the Musungu ; return the guns to the 
men and let them go ; for the white man may even 
now be on his way here." 

The exaggerated report of my power and dread pic- 
ture sketched by the Arab Sheikh pi oduced good effect, 
inasmuch as Kingaru and the Mabrukis were at once 
released from durance, furnished with food sufficient to 
last our caravan four days, and one gun, with its ac- 
coutrements and stock of bullets and powder, was 
returned, as well as the cook's donkey, with a pair 
of spectacles, a book in Malabar print, and an old hat 
which belonged to one whom we all now believed to be 
dead. The Sheikh took charge of the soldiers as far as 
Simbo ; and it was in his camp, partaking largely of 
rice and ghee, that Shaw found them, and the same 
bountiful hospitality was extended to him and his 
companions. 

I lieard this long story in much astonishment, with 
my bosom surging with the various and conflicting 
emotions it evoked, it was so utterly different in its 
entirety from what I had anticipated. First, I believed 
the cook would be found, and had not the least idea 
that any dire fate had befallen him; then there were 
keen regrets that I had punished him, and mental vows 
that, whatever member of my caravan robbed me of 



134 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, 

any valuable, I would not drive liim out to perish at 
the hands of such ruthless assassins. Secondly, there 
was much astonishment at the conduct of the Amazon 
Simbamwenni, for it was contrary to custom that she 
should demand two tributes from one owner ; and had 
it not been the custom, the four days I encamped on the 
Ungerengeri allowed sufficient time to rectify any error 
I may have committed by refusal to render tribute ; 
and 1 surely would not have imperilled the safety of 
my caravan liad her ambassadors returned to reiterate 
the demand. And this feeling was succeeded by hot 
indignation at the base robbery of my guns, which 
might have prompted me to retaliate on the suburbs of 
the town had I been nearer to Simbamwenni ; but the 
delay of four days, which the search after the cook had 
occasioned, cooled my ire to such an extent, that I began 
to feel thankful that my ill luck was no worse. Thirdly, 
there was much amusement at the well-intentioned exag- 
gerations of Sheikh Thani, and the woeful tale of the 
three soldiers. That night I wrote a full account of 
what transpired, to be despatched to the American 
Consul by the first caravan bound eastward, so that 
Syed Burghash might know both sides of the story 
which the unaccountable disappearance of the cook had 
created. 

With most thankful hearts did we quit our camp, 
where so much anxiety of mind and fretfulness had 
been suffered, not heeding a furious rain, which, after 
drenching us all night, might have somewhat damped 
our ardor for the march under other circumstances. The 
road for the first mile led over reddish ground, and was 
drained by gentle slopes falling east and west ; but, 
leaving the cover of the friendly woods, vii whose 
eastern margin we had been delayed so long, we 




lilillllllll 



April, 1871.] TO UOOGO. 135 

emerged into one of the savannahs, whose soil during 
the rains is as soft as slush and tenacious as tliick 
mortar, where we were all threatened witli the fate of 
the famous Arkansas traveller, who had sunk so low in 
one of the many quagmires in Arkansas county, that 
nothing but his tall stove-pipe hat was left visible. 

Shaw was sick, and the whole duty of driving the 
foundering caravan devolved upon myself. The Wan- 
yamwezi donkeys stuck in the mire as if they were 
rooted to it. As fast as one was flogged from his stub- 
born ])osition, prone to the depths fell another, giving 
me a Sisyphean labour, which was maddening under 
pelting rain, assisted by such men as Bombay and Uledi, 
who could not for a whole skin's sake stomach the storm 
and mire. Two hours of such a task enabled me to 
drag my caravan over a savannah one milu and a half 
broad ; and barely had I finished congratulating myself 
over my success before 1 was halted by a deep ditch, 
which, filled with rain-water from the inundated savan- 
nahs, had become a considerable stream, l.)reast-deep, 
flowing swiftly into the Makata. Donkeys had to be 
unloaded, led through a torrent, and loaded again on the 
other bank — an operation which consumed a full hour. 

Presently, after straggling through a wood clump, 
barring our progress was another stream, swollen into 
a river. The bridge being swept away, we were obliged 
to swim and float our baggage over, which delayed us 
two hours more. Leaving this second river-bank, we 
splashed, waded, occasionally half-swinnning, and reeled 
through mire, water-dripping grass and matama stalks, 
along the left bank of the Makata proper, until farther 
progress was effectually prevented for that day by a 
deep bend of the river, which we should be obliged to 
cross the next day. 



136 BOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

Though but six miles were traversed during that 
miserable day. the march occupied ten hours. 

Half dead with fatigue, I yet could feel thankful tliat 
it was not accompanied by fever, which it seemed a 
miracle to avoid; for if ever a district was cursed 
with the ague, the Makata wilderness ranks foremost of 
tliose afflicted. Surely the sight of the dripping woods 
enveloped in opaque mist, of the inundated country 
with lengthy swathes of tiger-grass laid low by the 
turbid flood, of mounds of decaying trees and canes, of 
the swollen river and the weeping sky, was enough 
to engender the Mukunguru ! The well-used kliambi, 
and the heaps of filth surrounding it, were enough to 
create a cholera ! 

The Makata, a river whose breadth during the dry 
season is but forty feet, in the Masika season assumes 
the breadth, depth, and force of an important river. 
Should it happen to be an unusually rainy season, 
it inundates the great plain which stretches on either 
side, and converts it into a great lake. It is the main 
feeder of the Wami river, which empties into the sea 
between the ports of Saadani and Wlmide. About 
ten miles nortli-east of the Makata crossing, the Great 
Makata, the Little Makata, a nameless creek, and 
the Rudewa river unite ; and the river thus formed 
becomes known as the Wami. Throughout Usagara 
the Wami is known as the Mukondokwa. Three of 
these streams take their rise from the crescent-like 
Usagara range, which bounds the Makata plain south 
and south-westerly ; while tlie Rudewa rises in the 
northern horn of the same range. 

So swift was the flow of the Makata, and so much 
did its unsteady bridge, half buried in the water, 
imperil the safety of the property, that its transfer 



April, 1871.] TO UGOOO. 187 

from bank tc bank occupied fully five hoars. No 
sooner had we landed every article on the other bide, 
undamaged by the water, than the rain poured down 
in torrents that drenclied them all, as if they had 
been dragged through the river. To proceed through 
the swamp which an hour's rain had formed was 
utterly out of the question. We were accordingly 
compelled to camp in a place where every hour fur- 
nished its quota of annoyance. One of the Wanguana 
soldiers engaged at Bagamoyo, named Kingaru, im- 
proved an opportunity to desert with another Mgwana's 
kit. My two detectives, Uledi (Giant's valet), and 
Sarmian, were immediately despatched in pursuit, both 
being armed with American breech-loaders. They went 
about their task with an adroitness and celerity which 
augured well for their success. In an hour they 
returned with the runaway, having found him hidden 
in the house of a Mseguhha chief called Kigondo, who 
lived about a mile from the eastern bank of the river, 
and who had accompanied Uledi and Sarmian to 
receive his reward, and render an account of the 
incident. 

Kigondo said, when he had been seated, " I saw 
this man carrying a bundle, and running hard, by 
which I knew tliat he was deserting you. We (my 
wife and I) were sitting in our little watch-hut watch- 
ing our corn ; and, as the road runs close by, this man 
was obliged to come close to us. We called to him 
when lie was near, saying, ' Master, where are you 
going so fast? Are you deserting the Musungu, for 
we know you belong to him, since you bought from 
us yesterday two doti wortli of meat ?' ' Yes,' said 
he, * I am running away ; I want to get to Sim- 
bamwenni. If you will take me there, I will give you 



138 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, 

M doti/ We said to him then, ' Come into our house^ 
and we will talk it over quietly.' AVhen he was in our 
house in an inner room, we locked him up, and went 
out again to the watch ; but leaving word with the 
women to look out for him. We knew tliat, if you 
wanted him, you would send askari (soldiers) after him. 
We had but lit our pipes when we saw two men armed 
with short guns, and having no loads, coming along 
the road, looking now and then on the ground, as if 
tliey w^ere h)oking at footmarks. We knew them to be 
the men we were expecting ; so we hailed them, and 
said, ' Masters, what arc ye looking for ?' They said, 
* We are looking for a man wlio has deserted our master. 
Here are his footsteps. If you have been long in your 
hut you must have seen him. Can you tell us wliere 
he is ?' We said, ' Yes ; he is in our house. If you 
will come with us, w^e will give him up to you; but 
your master must give us something for catching 
him.' " 

As Kigondo had promised to deliver Kingarii up, there 
remained nothing further to do for Uledi and Sarmian 
but to take charge of their prisoner, and bi-ing him 
and his captors to my camp on the western bank of 
the Makata. Kingaru received two dozen laslies, and 
was chained ; his captor a doti, besides five khete of red 
coral beads for his wife. 

That down-pour of rain which visited us the day 
we crossed the Makata proved the last of the 
Masika season. As the first rainfall wdiich we had 
experienced occurred on the 23rd March, and the last 
on the 30th April, its duration was thirty-nine days. 
The seers of Bagamoyo had delivered their vaticina- 
tions concerning this same Masika with solemnity. 
" For forty days," said they, ** rain would fall inces- 



May, 1871.] TO UGOQO, 139 

saiitly ;" whereas we had but experienced eighteen 
days' rain. Nevertheless, we were glad that it was 
over, for we were tired of stopping day after day to 
dry llie bales and grease tlie tools and ironware, and 
of seeing all things of cloth and leather rot visibly 
before our eyes. 

The 1st of May found us struggling through the 
mire and water of the Makata with a caravan bodily 
sick, from the exertion and fatigue of crossing so many 
rivers and wading through marshes. Shaw was still 
suffering from his first Mukunguru, exhibiting himself 
under a new phase — a phase none of the pleasantest. 
Besides delivering himself of certain desires not at all 
complimentary to the Expedition within nervous hear- 
ing, he seemed to assume by degrees the character of a 
chronic hypochondriac, which, at all times an unlovely 
character, is positively hateful to the Mtongi of an 
African expedition battling with swamps and rain, with 
a sickened caravan ; Zaidi, a soldier, was critically ill 
with the small-pox ; the kichuma-chuma, " little irons," 
had hold of Bombay across the chest, rendering him 
the most useless of the unserviceables ; Mabruk Saleem, 
a youth of lusty frame, following the example ol 
Bombay, laid himself down on the marshy ground, 
professing, while imitating a man who vomits, his total 
inability to breast the Makata swamp, but a plaited 
thong vigorously laid across his naked shoulders ex- 
purged the seeming nausea from the stomach ; Abdul 
Kader, the Hindi tailor and adventurer — the weakliest 
of mortal bodies — was ever ailing for lack of " force," as 
he expressed it in French, i.e. " strejigth," ever indis- 
posed to work, shiftless, mock-sick, but ever hungry. 
'* Oh ! God," was the cry of my tired soul, " were ali 
the men of my Expedition like this man I should be 



140 HO W 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

compelled to return, but not before taking sumTnarj) 
vengeance upon the whole of them." The virtue of a 
good whip was well tested by me on this day, and 
Abdul Kader (and may he carry the tale to all his kith, 
kin and race), one may make sure, will never accom- 
pany a white man again to Africa. Solomon was wise 
perhaps from inspiration, perhaps from observation ; I 
was becoming wise by experience, and I was comj^elled 
to observe that when mud and wet sapped the physical 
energy of the lazily-inclined, a dog-whip became their 
backs, restoring them to a sound — sometimes to an 
extravagant activity. 

For thirty miles from our camp was the Makata 
plain, an extensive swamp. The water was on an 
average one foot in depth ; in some places we plunged 
into holes three, four, and even five feet deep. Plash, 
splash, plash, splash, were the only sounds we heard 
from the commencement of the march until we found 
the bomas occupying the only dry spots along the 
line of march. This kind of work continued for two 
days, until we came in sight of the Hudewa river, 
another powerful stream with banks brimful of rushing 
rain-water. Crossing a branch of the Rudewa, and 
emerging from the dank reedy grass crowding the 
western bank, the view consisted of an immense sheet 
of water topped by clumps of grass tufts and foliage of 
thinly scattered trees, bounded ten or twelve miles off 
by the eastern front of the Usagara mountain range. 
The acme of discomfort and vexation was realised on 
the five-mile march from the Rudewa branch. As 
myself and tlie Wanguana appeared with the loaded 
donkeys, the pagazis were observed huddled on a 
mound. When asked if the mound was the camp, they 
replied "No." "Why, then, do you stop here?" — 



May, 1871.] TO UGOQO. Ill 

'' Ugh ! water plenty ! ! " One drew a line across his 
loins to indicate the depth of ^Yater before ns, another 
drew a h'ne across his chest, another across his throat, 
another held his hand over his head, by which he 
meant that we should have to swim. Swim five miles 
throngli a reedy marsh ! It was impossible ; it was 
also impossible that such varied accounts could all be 
correct. Without hesitation, therefore, I ord-ered the 
Wanguana to proceed with the animals. After three 
hours of splasliing through four feet of water we 
reached dry land, and had . traversed the swamp of 
Makata. But not without the swamp with its horrors 
having left a durable impression upon our minds ; no 
one was disposed to forget its fatigues, nor the nausea 
of travel which it almost engendered. Subsequently, 
we had to remember its passage still more vividly, and 
to regret that we had undertaken the journey during 
the Masika season, when the animals died from this date 
by twos and threes, almost every day, until but five 
sickly worn-out beasts remained ; when the Wanguana, 
soldiers, and pagazis sickened of diseases innumerable ; 
when I myself was finally compelled to lie a-bed with 
an attack of acute dysentery which brought me to the 
verge of the grave. I suffered more, perhaps, than I 
might have done had I taken the proper medicine, 
but my over-confidence in that compound, called 
" Collis Brown's Chlorodyne," delayed tlie cure which 
ultimately resulted from a judicious use of Dover's 
powder. In no one single case of diarrhoea or acute 
dysentery had this " Chlorodyne," about which so much 
has been said and written, any effect of lessening the 
attack whatever, though I used three bottles. To the 
dysentery contracted during the transit of the Makata 
swamp, only two fell victims, and those were a pagazi 



142 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

and my poor little dog " Omar," my companion fnnii 
India. 

The only tree of any prominence in the Makata 
valley was the Palmyra palm (Borassus flahellifoiinis), 
and this grew in some places in numbers sufficient to be 
called a grove ; the fruit was not ripe while we passed, 
otherwise we might have enjoyed it as a novelty. The 
other vegetation consisted of the several species of 
thorn bush, and the graceful parachute-topped and 
ever-green mimosa. 

The 4 th of May we were ascending a gentle slope 
towards the important village of Eehenneko, the first 
village near to which we encamped in Usagara. It 
lay at the foot of the mountain, and its plenitude and 
mountain air promised us comfort and health. It 
was a square, compact village, surrounded by a 
thick wall of mud, enclosing cone-topped huts, roofed 
with bamboo and holcus-stalks ; and contained a popu- 
lation of about a thousand souls. It has several 
wealth}^ and populous neighbours, whose inhabitants 
are independent enough in their manner, but not 
unpleasantly so. The streams are of the purest water, 
fresh, and pellucid as crystal, bubbling over round 
pebbles and clean gravel, with a music delightful to 
hear to tlie traveller in search of such a sweetly 
potable element. 

The bamboo grows to serviceable size in the neigh- 
bourhood of Rehenneko, strong enough for tent and 
baughy poles ; and in numbers sufficient to supply an 
army. The mountain slopes are densely wooded with 
trees that might supply very good timber for building 
pui-poses. 

We rerted four days at this pleasant spot, to recruit 
curse hes, and to allow the sick and feeble time to 



May, 1871.1 TO UGOOO. 143 

recover a little before testing their ability in tbe as(jent 
of the Usagara mountains. 

The 8th of May saw iis with our terribly jaded 
men and animals winding up the steep slopes of the 
first line of hills; gaining the summit of which we 
obtained a view remarkably grand, which exhibited as 
in a master picture the broad valley of the Makata, 
with its swift streams like so many cords of silver, as 
the sunshiine played on the unshadowed reaches of 
water, with its thousands of graceful palms adding not 
a little to the charm of the scene, with the great wall 
of the Uruguru and Uswapanga mountains dimly blue 
but sublime in their loftiness and immensity — forming 
a fit background to such an extensive far-embracing 
prospect. 

Turning our faces west, we found ourselves in a 
mountain world, fold rising above fold, peak behinu 
peak, cone jostling cone ; away to the nortli, to the 
west, to the south, the mountain tops rolled like so many 
vitrified waves ^ not one adust or arid spot was visible 
in all this scene. The diorama had no sudden changes 
or striking contrasts, for a universal forest of green 
trees clothed every peak, cone, and summit. 

To the men this first day's march through the 
mountain region of Usagara was an agreeable interlude 
after the successive journey over the flats and heavy 
undulations of the maritime region, but to the loaded 
and enfeebled ain'mals it was most trying. We were 
minus two by tlie time we had arrived at our camp, but 
sevL'n miles from Rehenneko, our first instalment of the 
debt we owed to Makata. Water, sweet and clear, was 
ai)undant in the deep hollows of the mountains, flowing 
sometimes over beds of solid granite, sometimes over a 
rich red sandstone, whose soft substance was soon pene- 



144 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

trated by tlie aqueous element, and whose particles were 
swept away constantly to enrich the valley below ; and 
in other ravines it dashed, and roared miniature thunder, 
as it leapt over granite boulders and quartz rock. 

'Jlie 9th of May, after another such an up-and-down 
course, ascending hills and descending into the twihght 
deptlis of deepening valleys, we came suddenly upon 
ttie Mukondokwa, and its narrow pent-up valley 
crowded with rank reedy grass, cane, and thorny 
bushes ; and rugged tamarisk which grappled for exist- 
ence witli monster convolvuli, winding their coils 
around tlieir trunks witli such tenacity and strength, 
that the tamarisk seemed grown but for their suppoi't. 

The valley was barely a quarter of a mile broad in 
some places — at others it widened to about a mile. The 
hills on either side shot up into precipitous slopes, 
clothed with mimosa, acacia, and tamarisk, enclosing a 
river and valley whose curves and folds were as various 
as a serpent's. 

Shortly after deboucliing into the Mukondokwa 
valley, we struck the road traversed by Captains Burton 
and Speke in 1857, between Mbumi and Kadetamare 
(the latter place should be called Misonghi, Kadetamare 
being but the name of a cliief). After following the 
left bank of the Mukondokvv^a, during which our route 
diverged to every point from south-east to west, north 
and north-east, for about an hour, we came to the ford. 
Beyond tbe ford, a short lialf-hour's march, we came to 
Kiora. 

A t this filthy village of Kiora, which was well-grounded 
with goat-dung, and peopled with a wonderful number oi 
children for a hamlet that did not number twenty 
tamilies, with a hot sun pouring on the limited open 
space, with a fury that exceeded 128° Fahrenheit; which 



May, 1871.] TO UOOOO. 145 

swarmed with flies, and insects of known and unknown 
species ; I found, as 1 had been previously informed, 
the third caravan, which had started out of Bagamoyo 
so well fitted and supplied. The leader, who was no 
other than the white man Far(|iihar, was sick a-bed 
with swollen legs (Bright's disease, engendered by 
general debauchery), unable and perhaps not a little 
unwilling to move, knowing the condition into which 
he had brought his caravan. 

While sick with dysentery at Rehenneko I had re- 
quested Shaw to write to Farquhar to obtain exact 
information respecting the state of his caravan, which 
had been reported to me by passing caravans as being 
most pitiable. Shaw accordingly nerved himself to the 
production of the following epistle : — 

" Dear Farquhar, 

" At the request of Mr. Stanley I write you to 
asertain all your misfortunes, what quanterty of clorth 
you have expened and how much you have left, how 
many donkeys is dead, and, in fact, all the perticlurs. 
How many pagazis have you discharged, and how 
many have you with you. What have you done with 
all the baggage the donkeys had, and who is your 
parangozery. What is the matter with you. What 
is the matter with Jacko, and what was the matter with 
the donkeys that dide. What sort of baggage have 
you left in your camp. Send Sarmean back to-morrow 
morning in return with AVillimingo and Barickca, ind 
the full reply to the above questions. In two days we 
shall be up with you." 

However ungramrnatical and misspelt the above note 
Is, it is far more intelligible to me, and I believe will 
be to the reader, than the reply wliich was received 

L 



146 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

from the leader of the third caravan, worded as 
follows : — 

" Dear Mr. Stanley, 

" Everything is all right, but I have used a 
good bit of cloth to pay pagazis ; one bale is entirely 

finislied. The Kirangozi was a rascal, I took 

his cloth from liim and drove him from camp. He 
said he would come to you, I made Kiranga Kirangozi 
and gave him ten doti. Food is very dear here ; oidy 
two cliickens for a shukka, and one goat costs five doti, 
and I can't get out of here. 

'' 1 liired six pagazis yesterday and sent them on with 
Uredi. Jooma said he was starving, so I gave him two 
bales of Merikani. He says he will wait for you in 
Ugogo. Jacko has been sick, I don't know with what, 
and he can't do anything for me. Wellymingoe is my 
cook now. Can you send me some sugar ? If you want 
any help I shall send my pagazis to help you for it is 
between where you are and this place that nine of my 
donkeys died, and I have only one left. All the Kaniki 
is finished, but I have got some more Merikani left. 

" Give my respects to Mr. Shaw and Selim. 
" Yours truly, 

" AV. L. Farquhar." 

This was the precious response I received to an 
anxious inquiry as to the condition of himself and 
caravan. Had the man been stark crazy he could 
hardly have indited anything better calculated to 
CO) 1 fuse one. 

Jn the first line he states " Everything is all right," 
when, accordii]g to the words immediately following, 
everything ap[)ears to me to be wrong. He turns the 



May, 1871.] TO UGOQO. 147 

Kirangozi away for a personal pique ; and to a Mgwann 
soldier of mine detailed to accompany the fiftli cara\'an, 
Jumah by name, he gives, upon his mere asking, two 
bales of Merikani, wortli $150 in gold, containing 150 
doti, a sufficient supply to feed a caravan of fifty men 
from Bagamoyo to Unyanyembe. *' All his Kaniki is 
finished" also, which shows great carelessness. In 
short, the letter is incomprehensible to me unless the 
man Farquhar is hydrophobially insane, which fact 1 
made haste to ascertain as I entered the enclosure of 
Kiora, and perceived his tent pitclied on a heap of 
goat-muck. 

As he heard my voice, Farquhar staggered out of his 
tent, as changed from my spruce mate who started from 
Bagamoyo as if he had been expressly fattened by the 
Wabembe of the Tanganika, as we do geese and 
turkeys for the Christmas dinner — as interesting a 
case of hypertrophy as Barnunis fat woman. I saw 
and regarded, not without wonder, the bloated cheeks 
and neck of my man Farquhar. His legs were also 
donderous, elephantine, since his leg-illness was of ele- 
phantiasis, or dropsy. His face was of a deathly pallor; 
but that w^as easily accounted for afterwards, when his 
men informed me that he had not been out of his tent 
for two weeks. He had made free use of the soldiers 
and pagazis, as the least of his wants required their 
services. In return, he paid them with a goat each day, 
when a goat cost five doti. Sometimes he changed the 
gift for chickens. 

A breezy hill, overlooking the village of Kiora, was 
chosen by me for my camping-ground, and as soon 
as the tents were pitched, the animals attended to, and 
a boma made of thorn bushes, Farquhar was carried up 
by four men into my tent. Upon being questioned as 

L 2 



118 EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

to the cause of his illness, be said he did not know 
what had caused it. He had no pain, he thought, any- 
where. I asked, ^' Do you not sometimes feel pain on 
the right side ?" — " Yes, 1 think I do ; but I don't 
know." — " Nor over the left nipple sometimes — a quick 
throbbing, with a shortness of breath ?" — " Yes_, I think 
I have. I know I breathe quick sometimes." He did 
not suffer from constipation ; he said his only trouble 
was in the legs, which were swollen to an immense size. 
Though he had the appetite of a horse, he yet felt weak 
in the legs. 

From the scant information of the disease and its 
peculiarities, as given by Farquhar himself, I could only 
make out, by studying a little medical book I had with 
rae, that " a swelling of the legs, purse, and sometimes 
of the body, might result from either heart, liver, or 
kidney disease." But, as the bowels were quite the re- 
verse of being sluggish, I did not know to what to 
ascribe the disease, unless it was to elephantiasis — a 
disease most common in Zanzibar ; nor did I know how 
to treat it in a man who could not tell me whether he 
felt pain in his head or in his back, in his feet or in his 
chest. 

Having found out that Farquhar's illness did not 
need any immediate and paramount attention from me, 
I set about resolving the contents of that recondite note 
he had written to me at Rehenneko, and which had 
exercised me so much ever since. But, incomprehensible 
as was his note, Farquhar's verbal information as to 
the state of the property entrusted to him was tenfold 
more perplexing, complicated, and enigmatic. Not one 
thread of his story could be unravelled to suit a me- 
thodical mind. What he did do, and what he did not 
do, what he had expended on cloth and beads, and 



May, 1871.J TO UGOGO, 149 

what lie had not expended, were so inextricably 
jumbled up together, that I felt myself drifting towards 
helpless insanity, in endeavouring to create some order 
out of the chaos of verbiage. The only way to cut 
short the difficulty was to personally overhaul every 
bale of cloth and load of beads, and ascertain, by 
reference to my account of the third caravan, what 
was missing. 

The reader will perhaps remember that I have stated 
that each caravan, before departing from Bagamoyo, or 
from any other part of the coast for the interior, must 
be furnished with cloth and beads sufficient for four 
months' subsistence on the road, independent of the 
cloth set aside for the tribute to be paid in Ugogo, and 
separate also from the bales for the carriage of which 
the owner has contracted with the pagazis. 

Farquhar's caravan was not an exception to this 
custom and rule ; but, being a white man's caravan, it 
was especially favoured for the leader s sake. It was 
composed of 23 men and 10 donkeys, and was supplied 
with 120 doti Merikani and Kaniki,and 35 lbs. of mixed 
beads to buy food. As there are 240 shukka in 120 
doti, and as one shukka bought on an average 25 kubaba 
of grain, and as one kubaba was the customary allow- 
ance for each man, it is as self-evident as an axiom that 
240 shukka were sufficient to keep the caravan in grain 
for eight months ; but as the journey to Unyanyembe 
would not occupy 120 days, there would be left for the 
white man to buy little luxuries, such as chickens, eggs, 
and sometimes a goat, 120 shukkas of good marketable 
cloth, and 35 lbs. of beads. 

Now followed the examination of the property. 
I was anxious to see if it corresponded with what 
was written on the list before the departure of the 



150 now I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

caravan from Bagamoyo. Tlie weighing, inipackiiig; 
and repacking, occupied an hour, at the end of which I 
knew the exact extent of the losses the Expedition 
had incurred from the belly-gieed and wanton care- 
lessness of this feebly-intellectual white man. Within 
seventy-three days he had consumed the 240 shukka 
given him for provisions, and 1 2 doti of colored cloths ; 
he had then broaclied the bales, out of which he had 
abstracted 82 doti, or liM shukka, all of which had 
been expended to supply his lust for goatmeat, eggs, 
and poultry. Out of the bales of cloth whicli had 
been entrusted to him to convey to Unyanyembe 
there remained but tw^o whole bales, all the other bales 
had been expended to purchase goats, or paid out as 
pagazi hire, for nine of his donkeys were dead^ and 
one was moribund. 

On making out the list of the expenditure of the 
sixth caravan, consisting of 43 souls and ] 7 donkeys led 
by myself for fifty days, 1 perceived it only amounted to 
43 doti, or 86 shukka, from which I knew that Farquhar 
had no excuse for the waste of so much valuable cloth. 
" Set a beggar on horseback and he will ride to the devil" 
is a proverb the truth of which was manifest in this 
case. I had given him a capital Zanzibar riding-ass for 
himself which he had ridden to death. He had never 
condescended to dismount from the moment he left one 
camp until he arrived at another, and, not knowing 
how to ride, he had see-sawed from side to side until the 
poor animal's back was so terribly chafed that it soon 
died. Had he continued his journey to Unyanyembe 
— how or by what means I know not — and continued 
his extravagant expenditure, not one shukka or one 
pound of beads would have been left. It was therefore 
fortunate for me that I overtook him at Kioia ; though 



May, 1871.] TO UGOGO. 151 

he was about to prove a sore incumbrance to me, 
for he was not able to walk, and the donkey -carriage, 
after the rough experience of the Makata valley, was 
failing. I could not possibly leave him at Kiora, 
death would soon overtake him there ; but how long I 
could convey a man in such a state, through a country 
devoid of carriage, was a question to be resolved by 
circumstances. 

On the 11th of May, the third and fifth caravans, now 
united, follow^ed up the right bank of the Mukondokwa, 
tl] rough fields of holcus, the great Mukondokwa 
ranges rising in higher altitude as we proceeded west, 
and enfolding us in the narrow^ river valley round 
about. We left Muniyi Usagara on our right, and 
soon after found hill-spurs athwart our road, which we 
were obliged to ascend and descend. 

A march of eight miles from the ford of Misonghi 
brought us to another ford of the Mukondokwa, where 
we bid a long adieu to Burton's road, which led up to 
the Goma pass and up the steep slopes of Rubeho. Our 
road left the right bank and follow^ed the left over 
a country quite the reverse of the Mukondokwa valley, 
enclosed between mountain ranges. Fertile soils and 
spontaneous vegetation reeking with miasma, and over- 
powering from their odour, we had exchanged for a 
drouthy wilderness of aloetic and cactaceous plants, 
where the kolquall and several thorn bushes grew 
paramount. 

Instead of the tree-clad heights, slopes and valleys, 
instead of cultivated fields, we saw now the confines ol 
an uninhabited wilderness. The hill-tops were bared 
of their bosky crowns, and revealed their rocky natures 
blertched white by rain and sun. Nguru Peak, the 
loftiest of the Usagara cones, stood right shoulder- 



152 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

wards of us as we ascended the long slope of dim-grej' 
soil which rose beyond the brown Mukondokwa on the 
left. 

At the distance of two miles from the last ford, we 
found a neat khambi, situated close to the river, where 
it first broke into a furious rapid. 

The next morning the caravan was preparing for the 
march, when I was informed that the ^' Bana Mdogo " 
— little master — Shaw^, had not yet arrived with the 
cart, and the men in charge of it. Late the previous 
night I had despatched one donkey for Shaw, who had 
said he was too ill to walk, and another for the load 
that w^as on the cart ; and had retired satisfied that 
they would soon arrive. My conclusion, when I learned 
in the morning that the people had not yet come in, 
was that Shaw was not aware that for five days we 
should have to march through a wilderness totally 
uninhabited. I therefore despatched Chowpereh, a 
Mgwana soldier, with the following note to him : — 
" You ivill, u^jon receipt of this order ^ pitcli the cart into 
the nearest ravine, gulley, or river, as well as all the extra 
pack saddles ; and come at once, for God's sake, for we 
must not starve here /" 

One, two, three, and four hours w^ere passed by m'^ in 
the utmost impatience, waiting, but in vain, for Shaw. 
Having a long march before us, I could wait no longer, 
but went to meet his party myself. About a quarter 
of a mile from the ford I met the van of the laggards — 
stout, burly Chowpereh — and, cartmakers, listen ! he 
carried the cart on liis head — wheels, shafts, body, axle, 
and all complete ; he having found that carrying it was 
much easier than drawing it. The sight was such a 
damper to my regard for it as an experiment, that 
the cart was wheeled into the depths of the tall reeds, 



May, 1871.] TO UGOGO. 15S 

and there left. The central figure was Shaw iiimself, 
riding at a gait which seemed to leave it doubtful on my 
mind whether he or his animal felt most sleepy. Upon 
expostulating with him for keeping the caravan so long 
waiting when there was a march on hand — in a most 
peculiar voice which he always assumed when disposed 
to be ugly-tempered — he said he had done the best he 
could ; but as I had seen tlie solemn pace at wdiich he 
rode, I felt dubious about his best endeavours ; and 
accordingly requested him if he could not mend his 
gait, to dismount and permit the donkey to proceed to 
camp, that it might be loaded for the march. Of course 
there was a little scene, but the young European 
Mtongi of an East African expedition must needs sup 
with the fellows he has chosen. 

We arrived at Madete at 4 p.m., minus two 
donkeys which had stretched their weary limbs in 
death. We had crossed the Mukondokwa about 3 p.m., 
and after taking its bearings and course, I made sure 
that its rise took place near a group of mountains about 
forty miles north by west of Nguru Peak. Our road 
led W.N.W., and al this place finally diverged from 
the river. 

On the 14th, after a march of seven miles over 
hills whose sandstone and granite formation cropped 
visibly here and there above the surface, whose stony 
and dry aspect seemed reflected in every bush and 
plant, and having gained an altitude of about eight 
hundred feet above the flow of the Mukondokwa, we 
sighted the Lake of Ugombo— a grey sheet of water 
lying directly at the foot of the hill, from whose 
summit we gazed at the scene. The view was neither 
beautiful nor pretty, but what I should call refreshing; 
it afforded a pleasant relief to the eyes fatigued from 



154 HOW 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

dwelling on the bleak country around. Besides, the 
immediate neighbourhood of the lake was too tame to 
call forth any enthusiasm ; there were no grandly 
swelling mountains, no smiling landscapes — nothing 
but a dun brown peak, about one thousand feet high 
above tlie surface of the lake at its western extremit}', 
from wln'ch the lake derived its name, Ugombo; nothing 
but a low dun-brown irregular range, running parallel 
with its northern shore at the distance of a mile ; 
nothing but a low plain stretching from its western 
shore far away towards the Mpwapwa j\lonn tains 
and Marenga Mkali, then apparent to us from our 
coign of vantage, from which extensive scene of 
dun-brownness we were glad to rest our eyes on the 
quiet grey water beneath. 

The outline of the lake resembles, in my mind, a 
map of England without Wales. Northumberland 
would represent very justly the western end of the 
lake, where the hippopotami sported in great numbers ; 
the coast fronting the German Sea, witli its bold l)ends 
and inlets, might find a miniature parallel in the 
northern shore of the lake ; winle the eastern side, 
which was very long, was almost the exact copy of 
the English coast as it is outlined from Kent to 
Cornwall. 

Descending from the summit of the range, which 
bounded the lake east for about four hundred feet, we 
travelled along the northern shore. The time occupied 
in the journey from the eastern to the western ex- 
tremity was exactly one hour and thirty minutes. 

As this side represents its greatest len_gth, I conclude 
that the lake is three miles long by two miles greatest 
breadth. The immediate shores of the lake on all 
sides, for at least fifty feet from the water's edge, 



May, 1871.] TO UOOGO. 165 

is one impassable morass nourishing rank reeds and 
rushes, where the hippopotamus' ponderous form has 
crushed into watery trails tlie soft composition of the 
mornss as he passes from the lake on his nocturnal 
excursions ; the lesser animals, such as the " mhogo " 
(buffalo), the " punda-terra " (zebra), the " twiga " 
(giraffe), the boar, the kudu, the hyrax or coney, and 
the antelope, come here also to quench their thirst 
by niglit. Tlie surface of the lake swarms with an 
astonisliing variety of water-fowl, such as black swan, 
duck, ibis sacra, cranes, pelicans ; and soaring above 
on the look-out for their prey are fish-eagles, and 
hawks, while the neighbourhood is resonant with the 
loud chirps of the guinea-fowls calhng for their young, 
with the harsh cry of the toucan, the cooing of the 
pigeon, and the " tu-whit, tu-whoo " of the owl. From 
the long grass in its vicinity also issue the grating and 
loud cry of the florican, woodcock, and grouse. 

Being obliged to halt here two days, owing to the 
desertion of the Hindi cooper Jako with one of my 
best carbines, I improved the opportunity of exploring 
the northern and southern shores of the lake. At the 
rocky foot of a low, humpy hill on the northern side, 
about fifteen feet above the present surface of the 
water I detected in most distinct and definite lines 
the agency of waves. From its base could be traced 
clear to the edge of the dank morass tiny lines of 
comminuted shell as plainly marked as the small par- 
ticles which lie in rows on a beach after a receding 
tide. There is no doubt that the wave marks on the 
sandstone might have been traced much higher by 
one skilled in geology ; it was only its elementary 
character that was visible to me. Nor do I entertain 
the least doubt, after a two days' exploration of the 



156 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, 

neighbourhood, especially of the low plain at the western 
end, that this Lake of Ugombo is but the tail of what 
was once a large body of water equal in extent to the 
Tanganika ; and, after ascending half way up Ugombo 
Peak, this opinion was confirmed when I saw the long- 
depressed line of plain at its base stretching towards the 
Mpwapwa Mountains thirty miles off, and thence round 
to Marenga Mkali, and covering all that extensive sur- 
face of forty miles in breadth, and an unknown length. 
A depth of twelve feet more, I thought, as I gazed upon 
it, would give the lake a length of thirty miles, and a 
breadth of ten. A depth of thirty feet would increase 
its length over a hundred miles, and give it a breadth 
of fifty, for such was the level nature of the plain that 
stretched west of Ugombo, and north of Marenga 
Mkali. Besides, the water of the lake partook slightly 
of the bitter nature of the Matamombo creek, distant 
fifteen miles, and in a still lesser degree of that of 
Marenga Mkali, forty miles off. 

Towards the end of the first day of our halt the 
Hindi cooper Jako arrived in camp, alleging as an 
excuse, that feeling fatigued he had fallen asleep in 
some bushes a few feet from the roadside. Having 
been the cause of our detention in the hungry wilder- 
ness of Ugombo, I was not in a frame of mind to 
forgive him ; so, to prevent any future truant tricks on 
his part, I was under the necessity of including him 
with the chained gangs of runaways. 

Two more of our donkeys died, Farquhar having 
killed another with his weight and see-sawing method of 
riding. To prevent any of the valuable baggnge being 
left behind, I was obliged to send Farquhar off on my 
own riding-ass to the village of Mpwapwa, thirty miles 
off, under charge of Mabruki Burton. Farquhar had 



Mat, 1871.J TO UOOOO. 167 

become the laughing-stock of the caravan, from his 
utter helplessness to do anything for himself. He was 
continually crying out like a sick baby for half a dozen 
people to wait upon him, and if they did not happen to 
understand the English language in which he addressed 
them, he poure.l out a volley of the most profane abuse 
that ever offended the ears of a Christian gentleman. 
Jako, whom J detailed as cook for him when despatched 
with the third caravan, he had beaten and flogged 
until he was almost imbecile ; and the Wanguana 
soldiers were in such dread of his insane violence, that 
they feared to go near him, and consequently Farquhar's 
voice, at no time one of the most harmonious, was 
heard night and day at the highest pitch of discordant 
querulousness. 

For six days I bore with this annoyance, and had my 
donkeys lived, I might have borne longer with it, but 
as they were all feeble, and such a rider as Farquhar 
would destroy them all one after another, to save the 
Expedition from ruin, I was reluctantly compelled to 
come to the conclusion tliat it were better for me, for 
him, and all concerned, that he be left with some kind 
chief of a village, with a six months' supply of cloth 
and beads until he got well, than that he should ruin 
me, and make his own recovery impossible. 

At breakfast time, on the 15th, as usual, Farquhar 
and Shaw were invited to breakfast. It was evident 
from their surly greeting to me, that something was 
the matter — or that something was about to happen. 
The faces of both men wore a settled dark frown, which 
seemed to bode no happy things for me. They did not 
reply to the '' Good morning " with which I greeted 
them. They turned their faces aside as I looked a1 
them closely. It now struck me that their conver 



168 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, 

sation, the animated tones of which I had every now 
and tljen heard, was about myself. 

I asked them to take seats. 

''Sehm," said I, "bring breakfast." 

A breakfast consisting of a roast quarter of goat, 
stewed hver, half a dozen sweet potatoes, some liot 
pancakes, and coffee, was served. 

'^ Shaw," said I, " please carve, and serve Far- 
quhar." 

'' What dog's meat is this ?" asked Shaw, in the 
most insolent way imaginable. 

" What do you mean ?" I asked. 

" I mean, sir, that it is a downright shame the way 
you treat us," said he, impudently, turning his face 
towards me. " I mean to say, for myself, that you are 
walking me too hard. I thought we were to have 
donkeys to ride every day, and servants to wait upon 
us. Instead of which I have now got to walk every 
day through the hot sun, until I feel as if I would 

rather be in than in this Expediti(m ; and 

I wish every soul in this may sink to this 

minute, so I do — there now ! " 

'' Listen to me, Shaw, and you, Farquhar. Ever 
since you left the coast, you have had donkeys to ride. 
You have had servants to wait upon you ; your tents 
have been set up for you ; your meals have been cooked 
for you ; you have eaten with me of the same food I have 
eaten ; you have received the same treatment I liave 
received. But now, all Farquhar's donkeys are dead ; 
seven of my own have died, and I have had to throw 
away a few things in order to procure carriage for the 
most important goods. Farquhar is too sick to walk, 
he must have a donkey to ride ; in yet a few days all 
our animals will be dead ; after which I must have 



May. 1871.] TO UGOOO. 159 

either over twenty more pagazis to take up the goods, 
or wait weeks and weeks for carriage. Yet, in the 
face of these things, you can grumble, and curse, and 
swear at me at my own table. Have you considered 
well your position ? Do you realize where you are ? 
Do you know that you are ray servant, sir, and not my 
companion ? " 

" Servant be ," said he. 

But before Mr. Shaw could finish his sentence he 
had measured his length on the ground. 

" Is it necessary for me to proceed further to teach 
you ?" I asked. 

"- 1 tell you what it is, sir,'' he replied, raising him- 
self up. ^' I think I had better go back. I have had 
enough, and I do not mean to go any further with you. 
I ask my discharge from you.'* 

"Oh, certainly. What, who is there? Bombay, 
come here." 

After Bombay's appearance at the tent door, I said 
to him, " Strike this man's tent," (pointing to Shaw.) 
" He wants to go back. Bring his gun and pistol here to 
my tent, and take this man and his baggage two hundred 
yards outside of the camp, and there leave him." 

In a few moments his tent was down, his gun and 
pistol in my tent, and Bombay returned to make his 
report, with foui' men under arms. 

" Now go, si I". You are at perfect liberty to go. 
These men will escort you outside of the camp, and 
there leave you and your baggage." 

He walked out. tlie men escorting him, and carrying 
his baggage for him. 

After breakfast, I began to explain to Farquhar how 
necessary it was to me, to be able to proceed ; that I 
had plenty of trouble, without having to think of men 



160 HOW I FOUND LlVINGSTONlS. 

who were employed to think of me and their duties \ 
that as he was sick, and would be probably unable tc 
march for a time, it would be better I should leave him 
in some quiet place, under the care of a good chief, 
who would, for a consideration, look after him until he 
got well. To all of which Farquhar agreed. 

I had barely finished speaking before Bombay came 
to the tent door saying, " Mr. Shaw would like to speak 
to you." 

I went out to the gate of the camp, and there met 
Shaw, looking extremely penitent and ashamed. He 
commenced to ask my pardon, and began imploring me 
to take him back, and promising that I should never 
find fault with him again. 

I held out my hand, saying, " Don't mention it, my 
dear fellow. Quarrels occur in the best of families. 
Since you apologize, there is an end to it." 

That night, as I was about falling asleep, I heard a 
shot, and a bullet tore through my tent, a few inches 
above my body. I snatched my revolvers, and rushed 
out of my tent, and asked the men around ihe watch- 
fires, '' Who shot ?" They had all jumped up, rather 
startled at the sudden report. 

" Who fired that gun ?" 

One said, the " Bana Mdogo " — little master. 

I lit a candle, and walked with it to Shaw's tent. 
" Shaw, did you fire r " 

There was no answer. He seemed to be asieep, he 
was breathing so hard. 

" Shaw ! Shaw ! did you fire that shot ?" 

'' Eh — eh ?" said he, suddenly awaking — "me ? — me 
fire ? I have been asleep."'' 

My eye caught sight of his gun lying near him. I 
^ized it — felt it — put my little finger down the barrel 



May, 1871.1 TOUdOGO. 16) 

The gun. was warm ; ray finger was black frora the 
burnt gunpowder ! 

" What is this ?"I asked, holding my finger up ; " the 
gun is warm. The men tell me you fired." 

*' Ah — yes," he replied ; " I remember it. I dreamed 
I saw a thief pass my door, and T fired. Ah — yes — I 
forgot. I did fire. Why, what is the matter ? " 

" Oh, nothing," I said. '' But 1 would advise you in 
future, in order to avoid all suspicion, not to fire into 
my tent, or at least so near me. I might get hurt, you 
know, in which case ugly reports would get about, aud 
this perhaps would be disagreeable, as you are probably 
aware. Good night." 

We all liad our thoughts about this matter ; but 1 
never uttered a word about it to any one until I met 
Livingstone. The Doctor embodied my suspicions in 
the words, " He intended murder ! " 

But what a clumsy way to murder ! Surely, had he 
done so, my own men would have punished him as the 
crime deserved. A thousand better opportunities than 
this would be presented in a month's march. I can 
only account for it by supposing he was momentarily 
insane. 

Tlie 16th of May saw us journeying over the plain 
which lies between Ugombo and Mpwapwa, skirting 
close, at intervals, a low range of trap-iock, out of which 
had become displaced by some violent agency several 
immense boulders. On its slopes grew the kolquall to 
a size which I had not seen in Abyssinia. In the plain 
grew baobab, and immense tamarind, and a variety of 
thorn. 

Within five hours from Ugombo the mountain range 
deflected towards the north-east, while we continued on 
a north-westerly course, heading for the lofty mountain- 

M 



162 BOW J FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

line of the Mpwapwa. To our left towered to the blue 
clouds the gigantic Rubeho. The adoption of this new 
road to Unyanyembe by which we were travelling was 
now explained — we were enabled to avoid the passes 
and stiff steeps of Rubeho, and had nothing worse to 
encounter than a broad smooth plain, which sloped 
gently to Ugogo. 

After a march of fifteen miles we camped at a dry 
mtoni, called Matamombo, celebrated for its pools of 
bitter water of the color of ochre. Monkeys and rhino- 
ceroses, besides kudus, steinboks^ and antelopes, were 
numerous in the vicinity. At this camp my little dog 
" Omar " died of inflammation of the bowels, almost 
on the threshold of the country — Ugogo — where his 
faithful watchfulness would have been invaluable to me. 

The next day's march was also fifteen miles in 
length, through one interminable jungle of thorn- 
bushes. Within two miles of the camp, the road led up 
a small river bed, broad as an avenue, clear to the 
khambi of Mpwapwa, which was situated close to a 
number of streams of the purest water. 

The following morning found us much fatigued after 
the long marches from Ugombo, and generally disposed 
to take advantage of the precious luxuries Mpwapwa 
offered to caravans fresh from the fly-plagued lands ol 
the Waseguhha and Wadoe. Sheikh Thani — clever but 
innocently-speaking old Arab — was encamped under 
the grateful umbrage of a huge Mtamba sycamore, and 
had been regaling himself with fresh milk, luscious 
mutton, and rich bullock humps, ever since his arrival 
here, two days before ; and, as he informed me, it did 
not suit his views to quit such a happy abundance so 
soon for the saline nitrous water of Marenga Mkali, 
with its several terekezas, and manifold disagreeables 



MAf,1871.] TO UQOGO, 163 

*'No!" said he to me, emphatically, "better stop here 
two or three days, give your tired animals some rest ; 
collect all the pagazis you can, fill your inside with 
fresh milk, sweet potatoes, beef, mutton, ghee, honey, 
beans, matama, maweri, and nuts; — then, Inshallah ! 
Wo shall go together through Ugogo without stopping 
anywhere." As the advice tallied accurately with my 
own desires and keen appetite for tlie good things he 
named, he had not long to wait for my assent to his 
counsel. ** Ugogo," continued he, ** is rich with milk 
and honey — rich in flour, beans, and almost every eat- 
able thing ; and, Inshallah ! before another week is 
gone we shall be in Ugogo !" 

I had heard from passing caravans so many extremely 
favourable reports respecting Ugogo and its productions 
that it appeared to me a very Land of Promise, and I was 
most anxious to refresh my jaded stomach with some of 
the precious esculents raised in Ugogo ; but when I 
heard that Mpwapwa also furnished some of those deli- 
cate eatables, and good things, most of the morning 
hours were spent in inducing the slow-witted people to 
part with them ; and when, finally, eggs, milk, honey, 
mutton, ghee, ground matama and beans had been col- 
lected in sufficient quantities to produce a respectable 
meal, my keenest attention and best culinary talents 
were occupied for a couple of hours in converting this 
crude supply into a breakfast which should be ac- 
cepted by and befit a stomach at once fastidious and 
famished, such as mine was. The subsequent healthy 
digestion of it proved my endeavours to have been 
eminently successful. At the termination of this 
eventful day, the following remark was jotted down in 
my diary : " Thank God ! After fifty-seven days of 
living upon matama porridge and tough goat, I have 

M 2 



164 HOW J FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

enjoyed with unctuous satisfaction a real breakfast and 
dinner." 

It was in one of the many small villages which are 
situated upon the slopes of the Mpwapwa that I found 
a refuge and a home for Farquhar until he should be 
enabled by restored health to start to join us at Unyan- 
yembe. 

Food was plentiful and of sufficient variety to suit 
the most fastidious, — cheap also, much cheaper than 
we had experienced for many a day. Leucole, the 
chief of the village, with whom I made arrangements 
for Farquhar's protection and comfort, was a little old 
man of mild eye and very pleasing face, and on being 
informed that I intended to leave the Musungu entirely 
under his charge, suggested that I should appoint some 
man in my employ to wait on him, and interpret his 
wishes to his people. I had thought of this further 
charge which Farquhar's illness might impose on me, 
but had hoped that Leucole would have relieved me of 
this for extra payment. The time, however, which had 
elapsed between Farquhar's arrival and our own, had 
been enough to prove to the chief his utter inability to 
minister to the wants of a man like Farquhar, who per- 
sisted in calling for the least thing in modern Anglo- 
Saxon instead of Kisagara or Kisawahili, and who, 
when not understood, would first roundly curse the 
natives in English, and then, when he found that his 
cursing was of no avail, would relapse into stubborn and 
fierce silence. No amount of money would suffice to 
bribe Leucole to undertake such a charge without an 
interpreter. It was of no use to mourn my folly in 
taking such a man as Farquhar on the Expedition : he 
was in the interior of Africa and sick ; the duty devolved 
on me to see that he was cared for. Accordingly I con- 



May, 1871.] TO UGOOO. 166 

suited with Bombay as to what man could best be 
spared ti stop with Farquhar. To my suprise, Bombay 
said, " Oh ! master, have you brought us to Africa to 
throw us away Hke this ? We signed no contract to 
stop belli iid, but to go with you to Ujiji, Ukerewe, or 
Cairo. If you tell one of tlie soldiers to stop, he will 
obey you until you are gone — he will then run away. 
No, no, master, it will not do ! " Despite Bombay's 
assertion — though there was no reason to doubt his 
word — I inquired of each man personally whether he 
would be willing to stay behind, and wait upon the sick 
Musungu. 

From each man I received an answer in the negative, 
delivered most resolutely, and their reason they stated 
to be the violent conduct of the Musungu towards the 
three soldiers detailed to accompany his caravan from 
Bagamoyo. They were afraid of him, he damned 
them so on all occasions ; and Ulimengo mimicked him 
so faithfully, yet so ludicrously, that it was almost 
impossible to abstain from laughing. As, however, the 
sick man absolutely needed some one to attend him, 1 
was compelled to use my authority, and, as Jako was 
the only one who could speak English, except Bombay 
and Selim my Arab interpreter, Jako, despite his pro- 
testations and prayers, was appointed, and the chief 
Leucole was satisfied. Six months' provisions of white 
beads, Merikani and Kaniki cloth, together with two 
doti of handsome cloth to serve as a present to Leucole 
after his recovery, were taken to Farquhar by Bombay, 
together with a Starr's carbine, 300 rounds of cartridge, 
a set of cooking pots, and 3 lbs. of tea. 

Abdullah bin Nasib, whom I found encamped here 
witli five hundred pagazis, and a train of Arab 
and Wasawahili satellites, who revolved around hie 



166 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

importance, treated me in somewhat the same manner 
that Hamed bin Sulayman treated Speke at Kasenge 
Followed by his satellites, he came (a tall nervous- 
looking man, of fifty or thereabonts) to see me in my 
camp, and asked me if I wished to purchase donkeys. 
As all my animals were either sick or moribund, I 
replied very readily in the affirmative, upon which he 
graciously said he would sell me as many as I wanted, 
and for payment I could give him a draft on Zanzibar. 
I thought bim a very considerate and kind person, 
fully justifying the encomiums lavished on him in 
Burton's ' Lake Regions of Central Africa,' and accord- 
ingly I treated him with the consideration due to so 
great and good a man. The morrow came, and with it 
went Abdullah bin Nasib, or " Kisesa," as he is called 
by the Wanyamwezi, with all his pagazis, his train 
of followers, and each and every one of his donkeys, 
towards Bagamoyo, without so much as giving a 
" quahary," or good-bye. 

At this place there are generally to be found from 
ten to thirty pagazis awaiting up-caravans. I w^as 
fortunate enough to secure twelve good people, who, 
upon my ariival at Unyanyembe, without an exception, 
voluntarily engaged themselves as carriers to Ujiji. 
With the formidable marches of Marenga Mkali in 
front, I felt thankful for this happy windfall, which 
resolved the difficulties I had been anticipating ; for 
I had but ten donkeys left, and four of these were so 
enfeebled that they were worthless as baggage animals. 

Mpwapwa — so called by the Arabs, who have 
managed to corrupt almost every native word — is 
called *' Mbambwa " by the Wasagara. It is a moun- 
tain range rising over 6,000 feet above the sea, bounding 
on the north the extensive plain which commences at 



Mat, 1871.] TO UGOQO. 167 

TJgombo lake, and on the east that part of the plain 
which is called Marenga Mkali, which stretches away 
beyond the borders of Uhumba. Opposite Mpwapwa, 
at the distance of thirty miles or so, rises the Anak 
peak of Rubeho, with several other ambitious and tall 
brethren cresting long lines of rectilinear scarps, which 
ascend from the plain of Ugombo and Marenga Mkali 
as regularly as if they had been chiselled out by the 
hands of generations of masons and stonecutters. 

Upon looking at Mpwapwa's greenly-tinted slopes, 
dark with many a densely-foliaged tree ; its many rills 
flowing sweet and clear, nourishing besides thick 
patches of gum and thorn bush, giant sycamore and 
parachute-topped mimosa, and permitting my imagi- 
nation to picture sweet views behind the tall cones 
above, I was tempted to brave the fatigue pf an ascent 
to the summit. Nor was my love for the picturesque 
disappointed. One sweep of the eyes embraced hun- 
dreds of square miles of plain and mountain, from 
Ugombo Peak away to distant Ugogo, and from 
Rubeho and Ugogo to the dim and purple pasture 
lands of the wild, untameable Wahumba. The plain 
of Ugombo and its neighbour of Marenga Mkali, 
apparently level as a sea, was dotted here and there 
with " hillocks dropt in Nature's careless haste," which 
appeared like islands amid th un and green expanse. 
Where the jungle was dense the color was green, alter- 
nating with dark brown ; where the plain appeared 
denuded of bush and brake it had a whity-brown ap- 
pearance, on which the passing clouds now and again 
cast their deep shadows. Altogether this side of the 
picture was not inviting ; it exhibited too plainly the 
true wilderness in its sternest aspect ; but perhaps the 
knowledge that in the bosom of the vast plain before 



168 ROW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

me tliere was not one drop of water bnt was bittur its 
nitre, and undriiikable as urine, prejudiced me against 
it. The hunter might consider it a paradise, for m its 
Lleptlis were all kinds of game 1o attract his keenest 
instincts ; but to the mere traveller it had a s-tern out- 
look. Nearer, however, to the base of the Mpwapwa 
tlie aspect of the plain altered. At first, the jungle 
thinned, openings in the wood appeared, then wide 
and naked clearings, then extensive fields of the hnrdy 
holcus, Indian corn, and maweri or bajii, with here 
and there a square tembe or village. Still nearer ran 
thin lines of fresh young grass, great trees surrounded 
a patch of alluvial meadow. A broad river-bed, con- 
taining several rivulets of water, ran through the 
thirsty fields, conveying the vivifying element which 
in this part of Usagara was so scarce and precious. 
Down to the river-bed sloped the Mpwapwa, roughened 
in some places by great boulders of basalt, or by rock 
masses, which had parted from a precipitous scarp, 
where clung the kolquall with a sure hold, drawing 
nourishment where every other green thing failed ; 
clad in others by the hardy mimosa, which rose like a 
sloping bank of green veidure almost to the summit. 
And happy sight to me, so long a stranger to it, there 
were hundreds of cattle grazing, imparting a pleasing 
animation to the solitude of the deep folds of the moun- 
tain range. 

But the fairest view was obtained by looking north- 
ward towards the dense group of mountains w^hich 
buttressed the front range, facing towards Rubeho. It 
was the home of the winds, which starting here and 
sweeping down the precipitous slopes and solitary 
peaks on the western side, and gathering strength as 
tliey rushed through the prairie-like Marenga Mkali, 



May, 1871.] TO UQOQO, 169 

howled through Ugogo and Unyamwezi with the force 
of a storm. It was also the home of the dews, where 
sprang the clear springs which cheered by their music 
the bosky dells below, and enriched the populous 
district of Mpwapwa. One felt better, stronger, on 
this breezy height, drinking in the pure air and feast- 
ing the eyes on such a varied landscape as it presented, 
on spreading plateaus green as lawns, on smooth 
rounded tops, on mountain vales containing recesses 
which might charm a hermit's soul, on deep and awful 
ravines where reigned a twilight gloom, on fractured 
and riven precipices, on huge fantastically-worn 
boulders which overtopped them, on picturesque tracts 
which embraced all that was wild, and all that was 
poetical in Nature. 

Mpwapwa, though the traveller from the coast will 
feel grateful for the milk it furnished after being so 
long deprived of it, will be kept in mind as a most 
remarkable place for earwigs. In my tent they might 
be counted by thousands ; in my slung cot they were 
by hundreds ; on my clothes they were by fifties ; on 
my neck and head they were by scores. The several 
plagues of locusts, fleas, and lice sink into utter insig- 
nificance compared with this damnable one of earwigs. 
It is true they did not bite, and they did not irritate 
the cuticle, but what their presence and numbers 
suggested was something so horrible that it drove one 
nearly insane to think of it. Who will come to East 
Africa without reading the experiences of Burton and 
Speke ? Who is he that having read them will not 
jemember with horror the dreadful account given by 
Speke of his encounters with these pests? My intense 
nervous watchfulness alone, I believe, saved me from a 
like calamity. 



170 HOW 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

Second to the earwigs in importance and in numbers 
were the white ants, whose powers of destriictiveness 
were simply awful. Mats, cloth, portmanteaus, clothes, 
in short, every article I possessed, seemed on the vQvgQ 
of destruction, and, as I witnessed their voracity, I felt 
anxious lest my tent should be devoured while I slept. 
This was the first khambi since leaving the coast where 
their presence became a matter of anxiety ; at all other 
camping places hitherto the red and black ants had 
usurped our attention, but at Mpwapwa the red species 
were not seen, while the black were also very scarce. 

After a three days' halt at Mpwapwa I decided on 
a march to Marenga Mkali which should be unin- 
terrupted until we reached Mvumi in Ugogo, where 
I should be inducted into the art of paying tribute to 
the Wagogo chiefs. The first march to Kisokweh was 
purposely made short, being barely four miles, in order 
to enable Sheikh Thani, Sheikh Hamed, and ^\q or 
six Wasawahili caravans to come up with me at Ohunyo 
on the confines of Marenga Mkali. 




OUR CAMP AT CllUNVTO. 



CHAPTER YL 



THROUGH MARENGA MKALT, UGOGO, AND UYANZI^ TO 
UXYANYEMBE. 



h. 



pom Marenga Mkali to- 


- 




From Msalalo to— 






Mvumi, Little Ugogo 


12 


30 


Welled Ngaraiso . 


3 


30 


Mvumi, Great Ugogo 


4 





Kusuri 


3 


15 


Matambura „ 


4 





Mgongo Tembo . 


3 


30 


Bihavana „ 


4 





„ Mtoni 


3 


30 


Kididimo „ 


2 





Ngbwhalali Mtoni 


2 


40 


Pembera Pereh „ 


10 





Madedita .... 


2 


30 


Mizanza „ 


5 


30 


Central Tuia, Unyam- 






Mukondoku „ 


6 


30 


wezi .... 


3 





Manieka „ 


5 





Kwala Eiver . . . 


7 





Mabunguru Mtoni, U- 






Rubuga .... 


7 


15 


yanzi . . . . 


8 





Kigwa 


5 





Kiti, Uyanzi . 


6 


80 


Shisa 


7 





Msalalo .... 


6 


30 


Kwihara .... 


3 






The 22nd of May saw Thani and Hamed's caravans 
united with my own at Cliunyo, three and a half 



172 BOW 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

hours' marcli from Mpwapwa. The road from the 
latter place ran along the skirts of the Mpv/apwa 
range ; at three or four places it crossed outlying spurs 
that stood isolated from the main body of the range. 
The last of these hill spurs, joijied by an elevated cross 
lidge to the Mpwapwa, shelters the tembe of Chunyo, 
situated on the western face, from the stoimy gusts 
that come roaring down the steep slopes. The water 
of Chunyo is eminently bad, in fact it is its saline- 
nitrous nature which has given the name Marenga 
Mkali — bitter water — to the wilderness which sepa- 
rates Usagara from Ugogo. Though extremely offensive 
to the palate, Arabs and the natives drink it without 
fear, and without any bad results ; but they are care- 
ful to withhold their baggage animals from the pits. 
Being ignorant of its nature, and not exactly under- 
standing what precise location was meant by Marenga 
Mkali, I permitted the donkeys to be taken to water, 
as usual after a march ; and the consequence was 
calamitous in the extreme. What the fearful swamp of 
Makata had spared, the waters of Marenga Mkali 
destroyed. In less than five days after our departure 
from Chunyo or Marenga Mkali, five out of the nine 
donkeys left to me at the time — the five healthiest 
animals — fell victims. The water appeared to cause 
retention of urine ; for three of the animals died from 
this cause. 

We formed quite an imposing caravan as we emerged 
from inhospitable Chunyo, in number amounting to 
about four hundred souls. We were strong in guns, 
Bags, horns, sounding drums and noise. To Sheikli 
Hamed, by permission of Sheikh Thani, and myself 
was allotted tlie task of guiding and leading this great 
cara\ an through dreaded Ugogo ; which was a most 
unhappy selection, as will be seen hereaftar. 



May, 1871.] THROUGH UOOGO TO UyYANYEMBE. 173 

Marenga Mkali, over thirty miles across, was at last 
before us. This distance had to be traversed within 
thirty-six hours, so that the fatigue of the ordinary 
march would be more than doubled by this. PVom 
Chunyo to Ugogo not one drop of water was to be found. 
As a large caravan, say over two hundred souls, seldom 
travels over one and three-quarter miles per hour, a 
march of thirty miles would require seventeen hours of 
endurance without water and but little rest. East 
Africa generally possessing unlimited quantities of 
water, caravans have not been compelled for lack of 
the element to have recourse to the mushok of India 
and the khirbeh of Egypt. Being able to cross the 
waterless districts by a couple of long marclies, they 
content themselves for the time with a small gourdful, 
and with keeping their imaginations dwelling upon 
the copious quantities they will drink upon arrival at 
the watering-place. 

The march through this waterless district was most 
monotonous, and a dangerous fever attacked me, which 
seemed to eat into my very vitals. The wonders of 
Africa that bodied themselves forth in the shape of 
flocks of zebras, giraffes, elands, or antelopes, galloping 
over the jungleless plain, had no charm for me ; nor 
could they serve to draw my attention from the severe 
fit of sickness which possessed me. Towards the end of 
the first march I was not able to sit upon the donkey's 
back ; nor would it do_, when but a third of the way 
across the wilderness, to halt until the next day ; 
soldiers were therefore detailed to carry me in a 
hammock, and, when the terekeza was performed in 
the afternoon, I lay in a lethargic state, unconscious of 
all things. With the night passed the fever, and, 
at 3 o'clock in the morning, when the march was 



174 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, 

resumed, I was booted and spurred, and tlie recognized 
mtongi of my caravan once more. At 8 a.m. we 
"had performed the thirty-two miles. The wilderness of 
Marenga Mkali had been passed and we had entered 
Ugogo, which was at once a dreaded land to my 
caravan, and a Land of Promise to myself. 

The transition from the wilderness into this Pro- 
mised Land was very gradual and easy. A^ery slowly 
the jungle thinned, the cleared land was a long time 
appearing, and when it had finally appeared, there 
were no signs of cultivation until we could clearly make 
out the herbage and vegetation on some hill slopes to 
our right running parallel with our route, then we saw 
timber on the hills, and broad acreage under cultivation 
— and, lo ! as we ascended a wave of reddish earth 
covered with tall weeds and cane, but a few feet from us, 
and directly across our path, were the fields of matama 
and grain we had been looking for, and Ugogo had 
been entered an hour before. 

The view was not such as I expected. I had 
imagined a plateau several hundred feet higher than 
Marenga Mkali, and an expansive view which should 
reveal Ugogo and its characteristics at once. But instead, 
while travelling from the tall weeds which covered the 
clearing which had preceded the cultivated parts, we 
had entered into the depths of the taller matama 
stalks, and, excepting some distant hills near Mvumi, 
where the Great Sultan lived — the first of the tribe to 
whom we should pay tribute — the view was extremely 
limited. 

However, in the neighbourhood of the first village a 
glimpse at some of the peculiar features of Ugogo was 
obtained, and there was a vast plain — now flat, now 
heaving upwards, here level as a table, there tilted up 



May, 1871.] THROUGH UOOGO TO UNYANYEMBE. 176 

into rugged knolls bristling with scores of rough 
boulders of immense size, which lay piled one above 
another as if the children of a Titanic race had been 
playing at house-building. Indeed, these piles of 
rounded, angular, and riven rock formed miniature 
hills of themselves, and appeared as if each body had 
been ejected upwards by some violent agency beneath. 
There was one of these in particular, near Mvumi, 
which was so large, and being slightly obscured from 
view by the outspreading branches of a gigantic 
baobab, bore such a strong resemblance to a square 
tower of massive dimensions, that for a long time I 
cherished the idea that I had discovered something most 
interesting which had strangely escaped the notice of 
my predecessors in East Africa. A nearer view dis- 
pelled the illusion, and proved it to be a huge cube of 
rock, measuring about forty feet each way. The baobabs 
were also particularly conspicuous on this scene, no 
other kind of tree being visible in the cultivated parts. 
These had probably been left for two reasons : first, 
want of proper axes for felling trees of such enormous 
growth ; secondly, because during a famine the fruit of 
the baobab furnishes a flour which, in the absence of 
anything better, is said to be eatable and nourishing. 

The first words I heard in Ugogo were from a Wa- 
g:)go elder, of sturdy form, who in an indolent way 
tended the flocks, but showed a marked interest in the 
stranger clad in white flannels, with a Hawkes' patent 
cork solar topee on his head, a most unusual thing in 
Ugogo, who came walking past him, and there were 
*' Yambo, Musungu, Yambo, Bana, Bana," delivered 
with a voice loud enough to make itself heard a full 
mile away. No sooner had the greeting been delivered 
than the word *' Musungu" seemed to electrify his 



176 now I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

entire village; and tlie people of other villages, situated 
at intervals near the road, noting the excitement that 
reigned at the first, also participate;! in the general frenzy 
which seemed suddenly to have possessed them. I con- 
sider my progress from the first village to Mvumi to 
have been most triumphant ; for I was accompanied by 
a furious mob of men, women, and children, all almost 
as naked as Mother Eve wlien the world first dawned 
upon her in the garden of Eden, fighting, quarreling, 
jostling, staggering against each other for the best view 
of the white man, the like of whom was now seen for 
the first time in this part of Ugogo. The cries of admi- 
ration, such as '^ Hi le !" which broke often and in con- 
fused uproar upon my ear, were not gratefully accepted, 
inasmuch as I deemed many of them impertinent. A 
respectful silence and more reserved behaviour would 
have won my esteem ; but, ye powers, who cause 
etiquette to be observed in Usungu, respectful silence, 
reserved behaviour, and esteem are terms un Known in 
savage Ugogo. Hitherto I had compared myself to a 
merchant of Bagdad travelling among the Kurds of 
Kurdistan, selling his wares of Damascus silk, kefiyehs, 
&c. ; but now I was compelled to lower my standard, 
and thought myself not much better than the monkey 
in the zoological collection at Central Park, whose 
funny antics elicit such bursts of laughter from young 
New Yorkers. One of my soldiers requested them to 
lessen their vociferous noise ; but the evil-minded race 
ordered him to shut up, as a thing unworthy to speak 
to the Wagogo ! When I imploringly turned to the 
Arabs for counsel in this strait, old Sheikh Tbani, 
always worldly wise, said, " Heed them not ; they are 
dogs who bite besides barking." 

At 9 A.M. we were in our boma, near Mvumi village ; 



May, 1871.1 THROUGH UOOOO TO UNYANYEMBE. VP 

but here also crowds of Wagogo came to catch a glimpse 
of the Musungii, whose presence was soon made known 
throughout the district of Mvumi. But two hours later 
T was oblivious of their endeavours to see me ; for, 
despite repeated doses of quinine, tlie Mukunguru had 
sure hold of me. 

The next day was a march of eight miles, from East 
Mvumi to West Mvumi, wljere lived the sultan of the 
district. The quantity and variety of provisions which 
arrived at our boma did not belie the reports respect- 
ing the productions of Ugogo. Milk, sour and sweet, 
honey, beans, matama, maweri, Indian corn, ghee, pea- 
nuts, and a species of bean-nut very like a large 
pistachio or an almond, water-melons, pumpkins^ mush- 
melons, and cucumbers were bi'ouglit, and readily 
exchanged for Merikani, Kaniki, and for the white 
Merikani beads and Sami-Sami, or Sam-Sam. The trade 
and barter which progressed in the camp from morning 
till niglit reminded me of the customs existing among 
the Gallas and Abyssinians. Eastward, caravans were 
obliged to despatch men with cloth, to purchase from 
the villagers. Tliis was unnecessary in Ugogo, where 
the people voluntarily brought every vendible they 
possessed to the camp. The smallest breadth of white 
or blue cloth became saleable and useful in purchasing 
provisions — even a loin-cloth worn threadbare. 

The day after our march was a halt. We had fixed 
to-day for bearing the tribute to the Great Sultan of 
Mvumi. Prudent and cautious, Sheikh Thani early 
began this important duty, the omission of which would 
have been a signal for war. Hamed and Thani sent 
two faithful slaves, well up to the eccentiicities of the 
AVagogo sultans^ — well spoken, having glib tongues 
and the real instinct for trade as carried on am(mgst 

N 



178 MOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, 

Orientals. They bore six doti of cloths, viz, one doti of 
Dabwani Ulyah contributed by myself, also one doti of 
Barsati from me, two doti Merikani Satine from Sheikh 
Thani, and two doti of Kaniki from Sheikh Hamed, as 
a first instalment of the tribute. The slaves were absent 
a full hour, but having wasted their powers of plead- 
ing, in vain, they returned with the demand for more, 
which Sheikh Thani communicated to me in this wise. 

'' Auf ! this Sultan is a very bad man — a very bad 
man indeed ; he says, the Musungu is a great man, 
I call him a sultan ; the Musungu is very rich, for he 
has several caravans already gone past ; the Musungu 
must pay forty doti, and the Arabs must pay twelve 
doti each, for they have rich caravans. It is of no use 
for you to tell me you are all one caravan, otherwise 
why so many flags and tents ? Go and bring me sixty 
doti, wnth less I will not be satisfied." 

1 suggested to Sheikh Thani, upon hearing this 
exorbitant demand, that had I twenty Wasungu armed 
with Winchester repeating rifles, the Sultan might be 
obliged to pay tribute to me ; but Thani prayed and 
begged me to be cautious lest angry words miglit irritate 
the Sultan and cause him to demand a double tribute, 
as he was quite capable of doing so ; " and if you 
preferred war," said he, " your pagazis \n ould all desert, 
and leave you and your cloth to the small mercy of the 
Wagogo." But I hastened to allay his fears by telling- 
Bombay, in his presence, that I had foreseen such de- 
mands on the part of the Wagogo, and that having set 
aside one hundred and twenty doti of honga cloths, I 
should not consider myself a sufferer if the Sultan 
demanded and I paid forty cloths to him ; that he must 
therefore open the honga bale, and permit Sheikh Thani 
to extract such cloths as the Sultan might like. 



May, 1871.] THROUGH UQOQO TO UNYANTEMBE. 17S 

Sheikh Thani, having put on the cap of consideration 
and joined heads with Hamed and the faithful serviles?, 
thought if I paid twelve doti, out of which three should 
be of Ulyah quality, that the Sultan might possibly 
condescend to accept our tribute ; supposing he was 
persuaded by the oratorical words of the *' Faithfuls,'' 
that the Musuugu had nothing with him but the 
mashiwa (boat), which would be of no use to him, 
come what might, — with which prudent suggestion the 
Musungu concurred, seeing its wisdom. 

The slaves departed, bearing this time from our boma 
thirty doti, with our best wishes for their success. In 
an hour they returned with empty hands, but yet un- 
successful. Tlie Sultan demanded six doti of Merikani, 
and a fundo of bubu, from tlie Musungu ; and from the 
Arabs and other caravans, twelve doti more. For the 
third time the slaves departed for the Sultau's tembe, 
carrying with them six doti Merikani and a fun<]o of 
bubu from myself, and ten doti from the Arabs. Again 
they returned to us with the Sultan's words, '' That, as 
the doti of the Musungu were short measure, and the 
cloth of the Aiabs of miserable quality, the Musungu 
must send three doti full measure, and the Arabs five 
doti of Kaniki." My three doti were at once measured 
out with the longest fore-arm — according to Kigogo 
measure — and sent off by Bombay; but the Arab; 
almost in despair declared they would be ruined if tbey 
gave w*ay to such demands, and out of the five doti 
demanded sent only two, with a pleading to the Sultan 
that he would consider what was paid as just and fair 
Muhongo, and not ask any more. But the Sultan of 
Mvumi was by no means disposed to consider any sue!) 
proposition, but declared he must have three doti, and 
these to be two of Ulyah cloth, and one Kitambi Barsati, 

N 2 



180 EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, 

which, as he was determined to obtain, were sent to him 
heavy with the deep maledictions of Sheikh Hamed 
and the despairing sighs of Sheikh Thani. 

Altogether the sultanship of a district in Ugogo 
must be very remunerative, besides being a delightful 
sinecure, so long as the sultan has to deal with timid 
Arab merchants who fear to exhibit anything approach- 
ing to independence and self-reliance, lest they might 
be mulcted in cloth. In one day from one boma the 
sultan received forty-seven doti, consisting of Merikani, 
Kaniki, Barsati, and Dabwani, equal to $35*25, be- 
sides seven doti of superior cloths, consisting of Rehani, 
Sohari, and Daobwani Ulyah, and one fun do of Bubu, 
equal to $14*00, making a total of $49*25 — a most 
handsome revenue for a Mgogo chief. 

On the 27th May we gladly shook the dust of Mvumi 
from our feet, and continued on our route — ever west- 
ward. Five of my donkeys had died the night before, 
from the effects of the water of Marenga Mkali. 
Before leaving the boma of Mvumi, I went to look at 
their carcases ; but found tl^em to have been clean 
picked by the hyaenas, and the bones taken possession 
of by an army of white-necked crows. 

As we passed the numerous villages, and perceived 
the entire face of the land to be one vast field of grain, 
and counted the people halted l)y scores on the roadside 
to feast their eyes with a greedy stare on the Musungu, 
I no longer wondered at the extortionate demands of 
the Wagogo. For it v/as manifest that they had but 
to stretch out their hands to possess whatever the 
wealth of a caravan consisted of; and I began to think 
better of the people \'. ho, knowing well their strength, 
did not use it — of people who were intellectual enough 
fco comprehend that their interest lay in permitting 



May, 1871.1 THROUGH UQOQO TO UNYANYEMBE. 18i 

the caravans to pass on without attempting an} 
outrage. 

Between Mvumi and the next sultan's district, that 
of Matamburu, I counted no less than twenty -five 
villages scattered over the clayey, colored plain. 
Despite the inhospitable nature of the plain, it was 
better cultivated than any part of any other country 
we had seen since leaving Bagamoyo. 

When we had at last arrived at our boma of 
Matamburu, the same groups of curious people, the 
same eager looks, the same exclamations of surprise, 
the same peals of laughter at something they deemed 
ludicrous in the Musungu's dress or manner, awaited 
us, as at Mvumi. The Arabs being " Wakonongo " 
travellers, whom they saw every day, enjoyed a com- 
plete immunity from the vexations which we had to 
endure. 

The Sultan of Matamburu, a man of herculean form, 
and massive head well set on shoulders that might vie 
with those of Milo, proved to be a very reasonable person. 
Not quite so powerful as the Sultan of Mvumi, he yet 
owned a fair share of Ugogo and about forty villages, 
and could, if he chose, have oppressed the mercantile 
souls of my Arab companions, in the same way as he 
of Mvumi. Four doti of cloth were taken to him as a 
preliminary offering to his greatness, which he said he 
would accept, if the Arabs and Musungu would send 
him four more. As his demands were so reasonable, 
this little affair was soon terminated to everybody's 
satisfaction ; and soon after, the kirangozi of Sheikh 
Hamed sounded the signal for the morrow's march. 

At the orders of the same Sheikh, the kirangozi 
stood up to speak before the assembled caravans. 
** Words, words, from the Bana," he shouted. *' Give 



182 now I FOUND LIVINGSTON''. 

ear, kirangozis ! Listen, children of UnyamAvezi ! The 
journey is for to-morrow ! The road is ciooked and 
bad, bad ! Tbe jungle is there, and many Wagogo lie 
hidden within it ! Wagogo spear tbe pagazis, and cut 
the throats of those who carry mutiimba (bales and 
ushanga beads) ! Tbe Wagogo have been to our 
camp, they have seen your bales ; to-nigbt tbey seek 
tbe jungle : to-morrow watch well, Wanyamwezi ! 
Keep close together, lag not behind ! Kirangozis walk 
slow, that the weak, the sick, and the young may 
keep up with the strong ! Take two rests en the 
journey ! These are the words of the Bana (master). 
Do you hear them, Wanyamwezi ? (A loud shout in 
the affirmative from all.) Do you understand them 
well? (another chorus) ; then Bas;" having said which, 
the eloquent kirangozi retired into the dark nigbt, and 
his straw hut. 

The march to Bihawana, our next camp, was rugged 
and long, through a continuous jungle of gums and 
thorns, up steep hills and finally over a fervid plain, 
while the sun waxed hotter and hotter as it drew 
near the meridian, until it seemed to scorch all vitality 
from inanimate nature, while the view was one white 
blaze, unbearable to the pained sight, which sought 
relief from the glare in vain. Several sandy water- 
courses, on which were impressed many a trail of 
elephants, were also passed on this marcb. The slope 
of these stream-beds trended south-east and south. 

In the middle of this scorching plain stood the 
villages of Bihawana, almost undistinguisbable, from 
the extreme lowness of the huts, which did not reach 
the height of the tall bleached grass which stood 
smoking in the untempered heat. 

Our camp was in a large boma, about a quarter of a 



May, 1871.] THROUGH UGOGO TO UNYANYEMBE. 188 

mile from the Sultan's tembe. Soon after arriving at 
the camp, I was visited by three Wagogo, who asked 
me if I had seen a Mgogo on the road with a woman 
and child. I was about to answer, very innocently, 
" Yes," when Mabruki — cautious and watchful always 
for the interests of the master — requested me not to 
answer, as the Wagogo, as customary, would charge me 
with having done away with them, and would require 
their price from me. Indignant at the imposition they 
were about to practise upon me, I was about to raise my 
whip to flog them out of the camp, when again Mabruki, 
with a roaring voice, bade me beware, for every blow 
would cost me three or four doti of cloth. As I did 
not care to gratify my anger at such an expense, I was 
compelled to swallow my wrath, and consequently the 
Wagogo escaped chastisement. 

We halted for one day at this place, which was a 
great relief to me, as I was suffering severely from inter- 
mittent fever, which lasted in this case two weeks, and 
entirely prevented my posting my diary in full, as was 
my custom every evening after a march. 

The Sultan of Bihawana, though his subjects were 
evil-disposed, and ready-handed at theft and murder, 
contented himself with three doti as honga. From this 
chief I received news of my fourth caravan, which had 
distinguished itself in a fight with some outlawed 
subjects of his; my soldiers had killed two who had 
attempted, after waylaying a couple of my pagazis, to 
carry away a bale of cloth and a bag of beads ; coming 
up in time, the soldiers decisively frustrated the attempt. 
The Sultan thought that if all caravans were as well 
guarded as mine were, there would be less depredations 
committed on them while on the road ; with this I 
heartily agreed. 



184 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, 

The next sultan's tembe througli whose territory we 
marched, this being on the 30th May, was at Kididimo, 
but four miles from Bihawana. The road led through 
a flat elongated plain lying between two lengthy hilly 
ridges thickly dotted with the giant forms of the baobab. 
Kididimo is exceedingly bleak in aspect. Even the 
faces of the Wagogo seemed to have contracted a bleak 
hue from the general bleakness around. The water of 
the pits obtained in the neighbourhood had the flavor 
of warm horse-urine, and two donkeys sickened and 
died in less than an hour from its effects. Man suffered 
belly-ache, nausea in the stomach, and a general irrita- 
bility of the system ; and accordingly revenged himself 
by cursing the country and its imbecile ruler most 
heartily. The climax came, however, when Bombay 
reported, after an attempt to settle the Muhongo, that 
the chief's head had grown big since he heard that the 
Musungu had come, and that its "bigness'' could not 
be reduced unless he could extract ten doti as tribute. 
Though the demand was large, I was not in a humour 
— being feeble, and almost nf^rveless, from repeated 
attacks of the Mukunguru — to dispute the sum : conse- 
quently it was paid without many v/ords. But the 
Arabs continued the whole afternoon negociating, and 
at the end had to pay eight doti each. 

Between Kididimo and Nyambwa, the district of 
the Sultan Pembera Peieh, was a broad and lengthy 
forest and jungle inhabited by the elephant, rhinoceros, 
zebra, deer^ antelope, and giraffe. Starting at dawn 
of the 3 1st, we entered the jungle, whose dark lines 
and bosky banks were clearly visible from our bower 
at Kididimo; and, travelling for two hours, halted lor 
rest and breakfast, at pools of sweet water surrounded 
by tracts of vivid green verdure, which were a great 



May, 1B71.] THROUGH UGOGO TO UNYANYEMBE. \^h 

resort for the wild animals of the jungle, whose track? 
were numerous and recent. A narrow nullah, shaded 
deeply with foliage, afforded excellent retreats from the 
glaring sunshine. At meridian, our thirst quenched, 
our hunger satisfied, our gourds refilled, we set out 
from tlie shade into the heated blaze of hot noon. The 
path serpentined in and out of jungle, and thin forest, 
into open tracts of grass bletiched white as stubble, 
into thickets of gums and thorns, which emitted an 
odor as rank as a stable ; through clumps of wide- 
spreading mimosa and colonies of baobab, through a 
conntry teeming with noble game, which, though we 
saw them frequently, were yet as safe from our rifles as 
if we had been on the Indian Ocean. A terekeza, 
such as we were now making, admits of no delay. 
Water we had left behind at noon : until noon- of the 
next day not a drop was to be obtained ; and unless we 
marched fast and long on this day, raging thirst would 
demoralize everybody. So for six long weary hours 
we toiled bravely ; and at sunset we camped, and still 
a march of two hours, to be done before the sun was an 
hour high, intervened between us and our camp at 
Nyambwa. That night the men bivouacked under 
the trees, surrounded by many miles of dense forest, 
enjoying the cool night unprotected by hat or tent, 
while I groaned and tossed thioughout the night in 
a paroxysm of fever. 

The morn came ; and, while it was yet young, the 
long caravan^ or string of caravans, was under vray. 
It ^vas the same forest, admitting, on the narrow line 
which we threaded, but one man at a time. Its view 
was as limited. To our right and left the forest was 
dark and deep. Above was a riband of glassy sky 
flecked by the floating nimbus. We heard nothing save 



186 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

a few stray notes from a flying bird, or the din of the 
caravans as the men sang, or hummed, or conversed, 
or shouted, as the thought struck them that we were 
nearirig water. One of my pagazis, wearied and sick, 
fell, and never rose again. The last of the caravan 
passed him before he died. Fortunately so, otherwise 
we must have committed the barbarism of leaving him 
unburied, whilst knowing he was dead. 

At 7 A.M. we were encamped at Nyambwa, drinking 
the excellent water found here with the avidity of 
thirsty camels. Extensive fields of grain had heralded 
the neighbourhood of the villages, at the sight of 
which we were conscious that the caravan was quick- 
ening its pace, as approaching its halting-place. As 
the Wasungu drew within the populated area, crowds 
of Wagogo used their utmost haste to see them before 
they passed by. Young and old of both genders 
pressed about us in a multitude — a very howling mob. 
This excessive demonstrativeness elicited from my 
sailor overseer the characteristic remark, " Well, I 
declare, these must be the genuine Ugogians, for 
they stare ! stare ! — my God, there is no end to their 
staring. I'm almost tempted to slap 'em in the face !" 
In fact, the conduct of the Wagogo of Nyambwa was 
an exaggeration of the general conduct of Wagogo. 
Hitherto, those we had met .had contented themselves 
with staring and shouting ; but these outstepped all 
bounds, and my growing anger at their excessive 
insolence vented itself in gripping the rowdiest of 
them by the neck, and before he could recover from 
his astonishment administering a sound thrashing with 
my dog-whip, which he little relished. This proceeding 
educed from the tribe of starers all their native powder 
of vituperation and abuse, in expressing which they 



May, 1871.] THROUOn UOOOO TO UNYANYEMBE. 187 

were peculiar. Approaching in manner to angry torn 
cats, they jerked their words with something of a 
splitting hiss and a half bark. The ejaculation, ae 
near as I can spell it phonetically, was " hahcht " 
uttered in a shrill crescendo tone. They paced back 
wards and forwards, asking themselves, •* Are the 
Wagogo to be beaten like slaves by this Musungu ? 
A Mgogo is a Mgwana (a free man) ; he is not used to 
be beaten. — hahcht." But whenever I made motion, 
flourishing my whip, towards them, these mighty 
braggarts found it convenient to move to respectable 
distances from the irritated Musungu. 

Perceiving that a little manliness and show of 
power was something which the Wagogo long needed, 
and that in this instance it relieved me from annoyance, 
I had recourse to my whip, whose long lash cracked 
like a pistol shot, whenever they overstepped modera- 
tion. So long as they continued to confine their 
obtrusiveness to staring, and communicating to each 
other their opinions respecting my complexion, and 
dress, and accoutrements, I philosophically resigned 
myself in silence for their amusement, but when they 
pressed on me, barely allowing me to proceed, a few 
vigorous and rapid slashes right and left with my 
serviceable thong, soon cleared the track. 

Pembera Pereh is a queer old man, very small, and 
would be very insignificant were he not the greatest 
sultan in Ugogo ; and enjoying a sort of dimediate 
power over many other tribes. Though such an im- 
portant chief, he is the meanest dressed of his subjects, — 
is always filthy, — ever greasy — eternally foul about 
the mouth ; but these are mere eccentricities : as a wise 
judge, he is without parallel, always has a dodge ever 
ready for the abstraction of cloth from the spiritless 



188 TWW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

Arab merchants, who trade with Unyanyembe every 
year ; and disposes with ease of a judicial case which 
would overtask ordinary men. 

Sheikh Hamed, who was elected guider of the 
united caravans now travelling through Ugogo, was 
of such a fragile and small make, that he might 
be taken for an imitation of his famous prototype 
" Dapper." Being of such dimensions, what he lacked 
for weight and size he made up by activity. No 
sooner was he arrived in camp than his trim dapper 
form was seen frisking about from side to side of the 
great boma, fidgeting, arranging, disturbing every- 
thing and everybody. He permitted no bales or packs 
to be intermingled, or to come into too close proximity 
to his own ; he had a favourite mode of stacking his 
goods, which he would see carried out ; he had a special 
eye for the best place for his tent, and no one else must 
trespass on that ground. One would imagine that 
walking ten or fifteen miles a day, he would leave 
such trivialities to his servants, but no, nothing 
could be right unless he had personally superin- 
tended it ; in which work he was tireless and knew 
no fatiofue. 

Another not uncommon peculiarity pertained to 
Sheikh Hamed ; as he was not a rich man, he laboured 
hard to make the most of every shukka and doti ex- 
pended, and each fresh expenditure seemed to gnaw his 
very vitals : he was ready to weep, as he himself expressed 
it, at the high prices of Ugogo, and the extortionate 
demands of its sultans. For this reason, being the 
leader of the caravans, so far as he was able we were 
very sure not to be delayed in Ugogo, where food was 
so dear. 

I'lie day we arrived at Nyambwa will be remembered 



May, 1871.] THROUGH UOOGO TO UNYANYEMBE. 189 

by Hamed as long as be lives, for the trouble and 
vexation wbicb be suffered. His misfortunes arose 
from tbe fact tbat, being too busily engaged in fidgeting 
about tbe camp, he permitted his donkeys to stray into 
the matama fields of Pembera Pereb, tbe Sultan. For 
hours be and bis servants sought for the stray donkeys, 
returning towards evening utterly unsuccessful, Hamed 
bewailing, as only an Oriental can do, when hard fate 
visits him with its inflictions, the loss of a hundred 
dollars worth of Muscat donkeys. Sheikh Tbani, older^ 
more experienced, and wiser, suggested to him that be 
should notify tbe Sultan of bis loss. Acting upon tbe 
sagacious advice, Hamed sent an embassy of two slaves, 
and the information they brought back was, that Pem- 
bera Perch's serv^ants had found the two donkeys eating 
the unripened matama, and tbat unless tbe Arab who 
owned them would pay nine doti of first-class cloths, be, 
Pembera Pereh, would surely keep them to remunerate 
him for the matama they had eaten. Hamed was in 
despair. Nine doti of first-class cloths, worth $25 in 
Unyanyembe, for half a shukka's worth of grain, was, 
as be thought, an absurd demand ; but then if be did 
not pay it, what would become of the hundred dollars 
worth of donkeys? He proceeded to the Sultan to show 
him the absurdity of tbe damage claim, and to endeavour 
to make him accept one shukka, which would be more 
than double tbe worth of what grain the donkeys had 
consumed. But the Sultan was sitting on pombe, be 
was drunk, which I believe to be his normal state — too 
drunk to attend to business, consequently his deputy, a 
renegade Unyamwezi, gave ear to tbe business. With 
most of the Wagogo chiefs lives a Unyamwezi, as their 
r-iglit-band man, prime minister, counsellor, executioner, 
ready man at all things save the general good ; a sort 



190 EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, 

of harlequin Unyamwezi, who is such an intriguing, 
restless, unsatisfied person, that as soon as one hears 
that this kind of man forms one of and the chief of a 
Mgogo sultan's council, one feels very much tempted 
to do damage to his person. Most of the extortions 
practised upon the Arabs are suggested by these crafty 
renegades. Sheikh Hamed found that the Unyamwezi 
was far more obdurate than the Sultan — nothing under 
nine doti first-class cloths would redeem the donkeys. 
The business that day remained unsettled, and the 
night following was, as one may imagine, a very sleep- 
less one to Hamed. As it turned out, however, the 
loss of the donkeys, the after heavy fine, and the 
sleepless night, proved to be blessings in disguise ; for, 
towards midnight, a robber Mgogo visited his camp, 
and while attempting to steal a bale of cloth, was 
detected in the act by the wide-awake and irritated 
Arab, and was made to vanish instantly with a bullet 
whistling in close proximity to his ear. 

From each of the principals of the caravans, the 
Unyamwezi had received as tribute for his drunken 
master fifteen doti, and from the other six caravans six 
doti each, altogether fifty-one doti, yet on the next 
morning when we took the road he was not a whit 
disposed to deduct a single cloth from the fine imposed 
on Hamed, and the unfortunate Sheikh was therefore 
obliged to liquidate the claim, or leave his donkeys 
behind. 

After travelling through the corn-fields of Pembera 
Pereh we emerged upon a broad flat plain, as level as 
the still surface of a pond, whence the salt of the 
Wagogo is obtained. From Kanyenyi on the southern 
road, to beyond the confines of Uhumba and Ubanarama, 
this saline field extends, containing many large ponds 



May, 1871.] THROUGH UOOOO TO UNYANTEMBE. 191 

of salt bitter water whose low banks are covered with 
an effervescence partaking of the nature of nitrate. 
Subsequently^ two days afterwards, having ascended the 
elevated ridge which separates Ugogo from Uyauzi, I 
obtained a view of this immense saline plain, embracing 
over a hundred square miles. I may have been 
deceived, but I imagined I saw large ex|)aiises of 
greyish-blue water, which causes me to believe that 
this salina is but a corner of a great salt lake. The 
Wahnmba, who are numerous, from Nyauibwa to the 
Uyanzi border, informed my soldiers that thei'e was a 
** Maji Kuba " away to the north. 

Mizanza, our next camp after Nyambwa, is situated 
in a grove of palms, about thirteen miles from the latter 
place. Soon after arriving I had to bury myself under 
blankets, plagued with the same intermittent fever 
which first attacked me during the transit of Marenga 
Mkali. Feeling certain that one day's halt, which 
would enable me to take regular doses of the invaluable 
sulphate of quinine, would cure me, I requested Sheikh 
Thani to tell Hamed to halt on the morrow, as 1 should 
be utterly unable to continue thus long, under repeated 
attacks of a virulent disease which was fast reducing 
me into a mere frame of skin and bone. Hamed, in a 
hurry to arrive at Unyanyembe in order to dispose 
of his cloth before other caravans appeared in the 
market, replied at first that he would not, that he could 
not, stop for the Musungu. Upon Thani's reporting his 
answer to me, I requested him to inform Hamed that, 
as the Musungu did not wish to detain him, or any 
other caravan, it was his express wish that Hamed 
would march and leave him, as he was c^uite strong 
enough in guns to march through Ugogo alone. What- 
ever cause modified the Sheikh's resolution and his 



192 now I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

anxiety to depart, Hamed's horn signal for the march 
was not heard that night, and on the morrow he had 
not gone. 

Early in the morning I commenced on my quinine 
doses ; at 6 a.m. I took a second dose ; before noon I had 
taken four more — altogether, fifty measured grains — 
the effect of wliich was manifest in the copious per- 
spiration whicli drenched flannels, linen, and blankets. 
After noon I arose, devoutly thankful that the disease 
which had clung to me for the last fourteen days had at 
last succumbed to quinine. 

On this day the lofty tent, and the American flag 
which ever flew from the centre pole, attracted the 
Sultan of Mizanza towards it, and was the cause of a 
visit with which he honored me. As he was notorious 
among the Arabs for having assisted Manwa Sera in 
his war against Sheikh Sny bin Amer, high eulogies 
upon whom have been written by Burton, and sub- 
sequently by Speke, and as he was the second most 
powerful chief in Ugogo, of course he was quite a 
curiosity to me. As the tent-door was uplifted tliat he 
might enter, the ancient gentleman was so struck ^^ ith 
astonishment at the lofty apex, and internal arrange- 
ments, that the greasy Barsati cloth whicli formed bis 
sole and only protection against the chills of night and 
the heat of noon, in a fit of abstraction was permitted 
to fall down to his feet, exposing to the Musungu's unhal- 
lowed gaze the sad and aged wreck of what must once 
have been a towering foim. His son, a youth of about 
fifteen, attentive to the infirmities of his father, hastened 
witli filial duty to remind him of his nakedness, u])on 
whicli, w^ith an idiotic titter at the incident, he resumed 
his scanty apparel and sat down to wonder and gibber 
out his admiration at the tent and the strange things 



June, 1871.] THROUGH UGOGO TO UNYANYEMBE, 193 

which formed the Musungu's personal baggage and 
furniture. A Yarangian soldier usliered into the blaze 
and magnificence of the Imperial Palace of Byzantium 
could not have been struck with more astonishment than 
was the Sultan of Mizanza at the fittings of my tent. 
After gazing in stupid wonder at the table, on which 
was placed some crockery and the few books 1 carried 
with me ; at the slung hammock, which he believed was 
suspended by some magical contrivance ; at the port- 
manteaus wliicli contained my stock of clothes, he 
ejaculated, " Hi le ! the Musungu is a great sultan 
who has come from his country to see Ugogo." He then 
noticed me, and was again wonder-struck at my pale 
complexion and straight hair, and the question now 
propounded was, " How on earth was I white when the 
sun had burned his people's skins into blackness ?" 
Whereupon he was shown my cork topee, which he 
tried on his woolly head, much to his own and to our 
amusement. The guns were next shown to him ; the 
wonderful repeating rifle of the Winchester Company, 
which was fired thirteen times in rapid succession to 
demonstrate its remarkable murderous powers. If lie 
was astonished before he was a thousand times more so 
now, and expressed his belief that the Wagogo could 
not stand before the Musungu in battle, for wherever a 
Mgogo was seen such a gua would surely kill him. 
Then the other firearms were brough tforth, each with 
its peculiar mechanism explained, until, in a burst of 
enthusiasm at my riches and power, he said he would 
send me a sheep or goat, and that he would be my 
brother. I tlianked him for the honor, and promised to 
accept whatever he was pleased to send me. At the 
instigation of Sheikh Thani, who acted as interpreter, 
who said that Wagogo chiefs must net depart with 

o 



194 EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

empty hands, I cut off a shukka of Kaniki and pre- 
sented it to him, which, after being examined and 
measured, was refused upon the ground that, the 
Musungu being a great sultan should not demean 
himself so much as to give him only a shukka. This, 
after the twelve doti received as muhongo from the 
caravans, I thought, was rather sore ; but as he was 
about to present me with a sheep or goat another 
shukka would not matter much. 

Shortly after he departed, and true to his promise, 
I received a large, fine sheep, with a broad tail, heavy 
with fat ; but with the words, " That being now his 
brother, I must send him three doti of good cloth." As 
the price of a sheep is but a doti and a half, I refused 
the sheep and the fraternal honor, upon the ground 
that the gifts were all on one side ; and that, as I had 
paid muhongo, and given him a doti of Kaniki as a 
present, I could not afford to part with any more cloth 
without an adequate return. 

During the afternoon one more of my donkeys died, 
and at night the hyaenas came in great numbers to feast 
upon the carcase. Ulimengo, the chasseur, and best 
shot of my Wangwanas, stole out and suceeded in 
shooting two, which turned out to be some of the 
largest of their kind. One of them measured six feet 
from the tip of the nose to the extremily of the tail, 
and three feet around the girth. 

On the 4th June we struck camp, and after travelling 
westvvard for about three miles, passing several ponds of 
salt water, we headed north by west, skirting the range 
of low hills which separates Ugogo from Uyanzi. 

After a three hours' march, we halted for a short time 
at Little Mukondoku, to settle tribute with the brother 
of him who rules at Mukondoku Proper. Three doti 



Tune, 1871.1 THROUOH UGOOO TO UNTANTEMBE, 196 

Batisfied the Sultan, whose district contains but two vil- 
lages, mostly occupied by pastoral Wahumba and renegade 
Wahehe. The Wahumba live in plastered (cow-dung) 
cone huts, shaped like the Tartar tents of Turkestan. 

The Wahumba, so far as I have seen them, are a fine 
and well-formed race. The men are positively hand- 
some, tall, with small heads, the posterior parts of 
which project considerably. One will look in vain for 
a thick lip or a flat nose amongst them ; on the con- 
trary, the mouth is exceedingly well cut, delicately 
small ; the nose is that of the Greeks, and so universal 
was the peculiar feature, that I at once named them 
the Greeks of Africa. Their lower limbs have not the 
heaviness of the Wagogo and other tribes, but are long 
and shapely, clean as those of an antelope. Their necks 
are long and slender, on which their small heads are 
poised most gracefully. Athletes from their youth, 
shepherd bred, and intermarrying among themselves, 
thus keeping the race pure, any of them would form a 
fit subject for the sculptor who would wish to immor- 
talize in marble an Antinous, a Hylas, a Daphnis, or 
an Apollo. The women are as beautiful as the men 
are handsome. They have clear ebon skins, not coal- 
black, but of an inky hue. Their ornaments consist of 
spiral rings of brass pendent from the ears, brass ring 
collars about the necks, and a spiral cincture of brass 
wire about their loins for the purpose of retaining their 
calf and goat skins, which are folded about their bodies, 
and, depending from the shoulder, shade one half of 
the bosom, and fall to the knees. 

The Wahehe may be styled the Eomans of Africa. 

Resuming our march, after a halt of an hour, in 
four hours more we arrived at Mukondoku Proper. 
This extremity of Ugogo is most populous. The 

2 



193 EO W I FO UND LI VI NO S TO NE. 

villages which surround the central tembe, where the 
Sultan Swaruru lives, amount to thirty-six. The 
people wIjo flocked fi'om these to see the wonderful 
men wiioso faces were white, who wore the most 
wonderful things on their persons, and possessed the 
most wonderful weapons; guns which "bum -bum- 
med " as fast as you could count on your fingers, 
formed such a mob of howling savages, that I for an 
instant thought there was something besides mere 
curiosity which caused such commotion, and attracted 
such numbers to the roadside. Halting, I asked w^hat 
'was the matter, and what they wanted, and w4iy they 
made such noise ? One burly rascal, taking my words 
'for a declaration of hostilities, promptly drew his bow, 
but as prompt as he had fixed his arrow my faithful 
Winchester with thirteen shots in the magazine was 
ready and at the shoulder, and but waited to see the 
arrow fly to pour the leaden messengers of death into 
the crowd. But the crowed vanished as quickly as they 
had come, leaving the burly Thersites^ and two or three 
irresolute fellows of his tribe, standing within pistol 
range of my levelled rifle. Such a sudden dispersion 
of the mob w^hich, but a moment before, was over- 
whelming in numbers, caused me to low^er my rifle, and 
to indulge in a hearty laugh at the disgraceful flight of 
the men-destroyers. The Arabs, who were as much 
alarmed at their boisterous obtrusiveness, now came up 
to patch a truce, in which they succeeded to everybody's 
satisfaction. A few words of explanation, and the mob 
came back in greater numbers than before ; and the 
Thersites w^ho had been the cause of the momentary 
disturbance was obliged to retire abashed before the 
pressure of public opinion. A chief now came u]), 
A^hom I afterwards learned was the second man 1o 



June, 1871.] THROUGH UGOGO TO UNYANYEMBE. 197 

Swaruru, and lectured the people upon their treatment 
of the ^' White Stranger." 

*^Know ye not, Wagogo," shouted he, "that this 
Musungu is a sultan (mtemi — a most high title). He 
has not come to Ugogo like the Wakonongo (Arabs), 
to trade in ivory, but to see us, and give presents. 
Why do you molest liim and his people ? Let 
them pass in peace. If you wish to see him, draw 
near, but do not mock him. The first of you who 
creates a disturbance, let him beware ; our great mtemi 
shall know how you treat his friends." This little bit of 
oratorical effort on the part of the chief was translated 
to me there and then by the old Sheikh Thani : which 
having understood, I bade the Sheikh inform the cln'ef 
that, after I had rested, I sliould like In'm to visit me 
in my tent. 

Having arrived at the khambi, which always sur- 
rounds some great baobab in Ugogo, at the distance of 
about half a mile from the tembe of the Sultan, the 
Wagogo pressed in such great numbers to the camp, tliat 
Sheikh Thani resolved to make an effort to stop or 
mitigate the nuisance. Dressing himself in his best 
clothes, he went to appeal to the Sultan for protection 
against his people. The Sultan was very much inebri- 
ated, and was pleased to say, " What is it you want, 
you thief? You have come to steal my ivory or my 
cloth. Gro away, thief !" But the sensible chief, whose 
voice had just been heard reproaching the people for 
their treatment of the Wasungu, beckoned to Sheik li 
Thani to come out of the tembe, and then proceeded 
with him tow^ards the khambi. 

The camp was in a great uproar ; the curious Wagogo 
monopolized almost every foot of ground ; there was no 
room to turn anywhere. I'he Wanyamwezi were quar- 



198 BOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, 

relling with the Wagogo, the Wasawahili servants were 
clamouriDg loud that the Wagogo pressed down their 
tents, and that the property of the masters was in 
danger ; while I, busy on my diary within my tent, 
cared not how great was the noise and confusion out- 
side as long as it confined itself to the Wagogo, Wan- 
yamwezi, and Wangwana. 

The presence of the chief in the camp was followed 
by such a deep silence that I was prevailed upon to go 
outside to see what had caused it. The chief's words 
were few, and to the point. He said, " To your tembes, 
Wagogo — to your tembes ! Why do you come to 
trouble the Wakonongo ? What have you to do with 
them ? To your tembes : go ! Each Mgogo found in 
the khambi without meal, without cattle to sell, shall 
pay to the mtemi cloth or cows. Away with you !" 
Saying which, he snatched up a stick and drove the 
hundreds out of the khambi, who were as obedient to 
him as so many children. During the two days we 
halted at Mukondoku we saw no more of the mob, and 
there was peace. 

The muhongo of the Sultan Swaruru was settled 
with few words. The chief who acted for the Sultan as 
his prime minister having been " made glad " with a 
doti of Rehani Ulyah from me, accepted the usual tri- 
bute of six doti, only one of which was of first-class 
cloth. 

There remained but one more sultan to whom mu- 
hongo must be paid after Mukondoku, and this was the 
Sultan of Kiwyeh, w^iose reputation was so bad that 
owners of property who had control over their pagazis 
seldom passed by Kiwyeh, preferring the hardships of 
long marches through the wilderness to the rudeness 
and exorbitant demands of the chief of Kiwyeh. But 



June, 1871.] THROUGH UQOQO TO UNYANYEMBE. 199 

the pagazis, on whom no burden or responsibility fell 
save that of carrying their loads, who could use their 
le^rs and show clean heels in the case of a hostile out- 
break, preferred the march toKiwyeh to enduring thirst 
and the fatigue of a terekeza. Often the preference of 
the pagazis won the day, when their employers were 
timid, irresolute men, like Sheikh Hamed. 

The 7th of June was the day fixed for our departure 
from Mukondoku, so the day before, the Arabs came to 
my tent to counsel with me as to fhe route we should 
adopt. On calling together the kirangozis of the re- 
spective caravans and veteran Wanyamwezi pagazis, we 
learned there were three roads leading from Mukon- 
doku to Uyanzi. The first was the southern road, and 
the one generally adopted, for the reasons already stated, 
and led by Kiwyeh. To this Hamed raised objections. 
" The Sultan was bad," he said ; " he sometimes charged 
a caravan twenty doti ; our caravan would have to pay 
about sixty doti. The Kiwyeh road would not do at all. 
Besides," he added, " we have to make a terekeza to 
reach Kiwyeh, and then we will not reach it before tlie 
day after to-morrow." The second was the central road. 
We should arrive at Munieka on the morrow ; the day 
after would be a terekeza from Mabunguru Nullah to a 
camp near Unyambogi ; two hours the next day would 
bring us to Kiti, where there was plenty of water and 
food. As neither of the kirangozis or Arabs knew this 
road, and its description came from one of my ancient 
pagazis, Hamed said he did not like to trust the 
guidance of such a large caravan in the hands of an old 
Unyamwezi, and would therefore prefer to hear about 
the third road, before rendering his decision. The third 
road was the northern. It led past numerous villages 
of the Wagogo for the first two hours ; then we should 



200 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

strike a jungle ; and a three hours' march would tLen 
bring us to Simbo, where there was water, but no village, 
Starting early next morning, we would travel six hours, 
when we would arrive at a pool of water. Here taking 
a short rest, an afternoon march of five hours would 
bring us within three hours of another village. As this 
last road was known to many, Hamed said, " Sheikh 
Thani, tell the Sahib that I think this is the best 
road." Sheikh Thani was told, after he had informed 
me that, as I had marched with them through Ugogo, 
if they decided upon going by Simbo, my caravan would 
follow. 

The routes being settled after much discussion, I 
took compass bearings of the respective points. It will 
be rem ember ^-d that I said Mukondoku had been 
reached after a three hours' march direct west from 
Mizanza, that we had then travelled for about four hours 
and a quarter north by west, skirting the base of a ridge 
which ran from the neighbourhood of Kanyenyi north by 
west to the borders of Uhumba, and which served as a 
boundary line between Ugogo and the adjacent land of 
the Wayanzi. Mukondoku was but two miles on the 
eastern side from this ridge : Kiwyeh pointed S.S.W. 
from Mukondoku, thence was a march of seven days 
to Kusuri. The direction of Simbo was N.N.W., 
thence to Kusuri was a march of six days. It is thus 
obvious enough that the shortest road was the one by 
Kiti, and the only objection to it was that it was 
unknown to any of the Arabs or kirangozis. 

Immediately after the discussion among the princi}>aLs 
respecting the merits of the several routes, arose a dis- 
cussion among the pagazis wliich resulted in an obsti- 
nate clamour against the Simbo road, for its long 
terekeza and scant prosyjects of water, the dislike to the 



June, 1871.] TH ROUGH UQOQO TO UNYANYEMBE. JOl 

Simbo road communicated itself to all the caravans, 
and soon it was magnified by reports of a wilderness 
reaching from Simbo to Kusuri, where there was 
neither food nor water to be obtained. Hamed's 
pagazis, and those of the Arab servants, rose in a body 
and declared they could not go on that march, and if 
Hamed insisted upon adopting it they would put their 
packs down and leave him to carry them himself. 

Hamed Kimiani, as he was styled by the Arabs, 
rushed up to Sheikh Thani, and declared that he must 
take the Kiwyeh road, otherwise his pagazis would all 
desert. Thaui replied that all the roads were the same 
to him, that wherever Hamed chose to go, he would 
follow. They then came to my tent, and informed me of 
the determination at which the Wanyamwezi had arrived. 
Calling my veteran Mnyamwezi who had given me 
the favourable report once more to my tent, I bade him 
give a correct account of the Kiti road. It was so 
favourable that my I'eply to Hamed was, that I was the 
master of my caravan, that it was to go wherever I 
told the kirangozi, not where the pagazis chose ; that 
when I told them to halt they must halt, and when I 
commanded a march, a march should be made ; and 
that as I fed them well and did not overwork them, 1 
should like to see the pagazi or soldier that disobeyed 
me. "You made up your mind just now that you 
would take the Simbo road, and we were agreed upon 
it, now your pagazis say they will take the Kiwyeh 
road, or desert. Gro on the Kiwyeh road and pay 
twenty doti muhongo. I and my caravan to-morrow 
morning will take the Kiti road, and when you find me 
in Unyanyembe one day ahead of you, you \\\\\ be sorry 
you did not take the same road." 

This resolution of mine had the effect of again changing 



202 EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

the current of Hamed's thoughts, for he instantly said, 
"Tiiat is the best road after all, and as the Sahib is de- 
termined to go on it, and we have all travelled together 
through the bad land of the Wagogo, Inshallah ! let us 
all go the same way," and Thani — good old man — not 
objecting, and Hamed having decided, they both joy- 
fully went out of the tent to communicate the news. 

On the 7th the caravans — apparently unanimous that 
the Kiti road was to be taken — were led as usual 
by Hamed's kiraiigozi. We had barely gone a mile 
before I perceived that we had left the Simbo road, had 
taken the direction of Kiti, and, by a cunning detour, 
were now fast approaching the defile of the mountain 
ridge before us, which admitted access to the higher 
plateau of Kiwyeh. Instantly halting my caravan, 
I summoned the veteran who had travelled by Kiti^ and 
asked him whether we were not going towards Kiwyeh. 
He replied that we were. Calling my pagazis together, 
I bade Bombay tell them that the Musungu never 
changed his mind ; that as I had said my caravan should 
march by Kiti, to Kiti it must go whether the Arabs 
followed or not. I then ordered the veteran to take up 
his load and show the kirangozi the proper road to 
Kiti. The Wanyamwezi pagazis put down their bales, 
and then there was every indication of a mutiny. The 
Wangwana soldiers were next ordered to load their 
guns and to flank the caravan, and shoot the first 
pagazis who made an attempt to run away. Dis- 
mounting, I seized my whip, and, advancing towards 
the first pagazi who had put down his load, I motioned to 
him to take up his load and march. It was unnecessary 
to proceed further ; without an exception, all marched 
away obediently after the kirangozi. I was about bid- 
ding farewell to Thani and Hamed, when Thani said, 



June, 1871.] THROUGH UOOOO TO UNYANYEMBE, 203 

** Stop a bit, Sahib ; I have had enough of this child's 
play ; I come with you," and his caravan was turned 
after mine. Hamed's caravan was by this time close 
to the defile, and he himself was a full mile behind it, 
weeping like a child at what he was pleased to call our 
desertion of him. Pitying his strait — for he was almost 
beside himself as thoughts of Kiwyeh's sultan, his ex- 
tortion and rudeness, swept across his mind — I advised 
him to run after his caravan, and tell it, as all the 
rest bad taken the other road, to think of the Sultan of 
Kiwyeh. Before reaching the Kiti defile I was aware 
that Hamed's caravan was following us. 

The ascent of the ridge was rugged and steep, thorns 
of the prickliest nature punished us severely, the acacia 
horrida was here more horrid than usual, the gums 
stretched out their branches, and entangled the .loads, 
the mimosa with its umbrella-like top served to shade 
us from the sun, but impeded a rapid advance. Steep 
outcrops of syenite and granite, worn smooth by many 
feet, had to be climbed over, rugged terraces of earth 
and rock bad to be ascended, and distant shots resound- 
ing through the forest added to the ainrm and general 
discontent, and had I not been immediately behind my 
caravan, watchful of every manoeuvre, my Wanyamwezi 
had deserted to a man. 

Though the height we ascended was barely 800 
feet above the salina we had just left, the ascent 
occupied two hours. 

Having surmounted the plateau and the worst dif- 
ficulties, we had a fair road comparatively, which ran 
through jungle, forest, and small open tracts, which in 
three hours more brought us to Munieka, a small 
village, surrounded by a clearing richly cultivated by a 
colony of subjects of Swaruru of Mukondoku. 



204 now I FOUND LIVINOSTONL, 

By the time we had arrived at camp everybody had 
recovered his good humour and content except Achmet 
Thani's men happened to set liis tent too close to 
Hamed's tree, around which his bales were stacked. 
Whether the little Sheikh imagined honest old Thani 
capable of stealing one is not known, but it is certain 
that he stormed and raved about the near neighbour- 
hood of his best friend's tent, until Thani ordered its 
removal a hundred yards off. This proceeding even, it 
seems, did not satisfy Hamed, for it was quite midnight 
— as Thani said — when Hamed came, and kissing his 
hands and feet, on his knees implored forgiveness, which 
of course Thani, being the soul of good-nature, and as 
large-hearted as any man, wilhngly gave. Hamed was 
not satisfied, however, until, with the aid of his slaves, 
he had transported his friend's tent to where it had at 
first been pitched. 

The water at Munieka was obtained from a deep 
depression in a hump of syenite, and was as clear as 
crystal, and cold as ice-water — a luxury we had not 
experienced since leaving Simbamwenni. 

We were now on the borders of Uyanzi, or, as it is 
better known, " Magunda Mkali " — the Hot-groimd, or 
Hot- field. We had passed the village populated by 
Wagogo, and were about to shake the dust of Ugogo 
from our feet. We had entered Ugogo full of hopes, 
beheviug it a most pleasant land — a land flowing with 
milk and honey. We had been grievously disap- 
pointed ; it proved to be a land of gall and bitterness, 
full of trouble and vexation of spirit, where danger was 
imminent at every step — where we were exposed to the 
caprice of inebriated sultans. Is it a wonder, then, that 
all felt happy at such a moment ? With the prospect 
before us of what was believed by many to be a real 



June, 1871.] MAGUNDA MKALI TO UNYANYEMBE. 205 

wilderness, our ardour was not abated, but was rather 
strengthened. The wilderness in Africa proves to be, 
in many instances, more friendly than the populated 
country. 

The kirangozi blew his Kudu horn much more mer- 
rily on this morning than he was accustomed to do 
while in Ugogo. We were about to enter Magunda 
Mkali. At 9 a.m., three hours after leaving Munieka, 
and two hours since we had left the extreme limits of 
Ugogo, we were halted at Mabunguru Nullah. The 
Nullah runs south-westerly after leaving its source in 
the chain of hills dividing Ugogo from Magunda 
Mkali. During the rainy season it must be nearly 
impassable, owing to the excessive slope of its bed. 
Traces of the force of the torrent are seen in the 
syenite and basalt boulders which encumber the course. 
Their rugged angles are worn smooth, and deep basins 
are excavated where the bed is of the rock, which in 
the dry season serve as reservoirs. Though the water 
contained in them has a slimy and greenish appearance, 
and is well populated with frogs, it is by no means un- 
palatable. 

At noon we resumed our march, the Wanyamwezi 
cheering, shouting, and singing, the Wangwana soldiers, 
servants, and pagazis vieing with them in volume of 
voice and noise — making the dim forest through which 
we were now passing, resonant with their voices. 

The scenery was much more picturesque than any 
we had yet seen since leaving Bagamoyo. The ground 
rose into grander waves — hills cropped out here and 
there — great castles of syenite appeared, giving a strange 
and weird appearance to the forest. From a distance 
it would almost seem as if we were approaching a bit of 
England as it must have appeared during feudalism ; 



206 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

the rocks assumed such strange fantastic shapes. Now 
they were round boulders raised one above another, 
apparently susceptible to every breath of wind ; anon, 
they towered like blunt-pointed obelisks, taller than the 
tallest trees ; again they assumed the shape of mighty 
waves, vitrified ; here, they were a small heap of frac- 
tured and riven rock ; there, they rose to the grandeur 
of hills. 

By 5 P.M. we had travelled twenty miles, and the 
signal was sounded for a halt. At 1 a.m., the moon 
being up, Hamed's horn and voice were heard through- 
out the silent camp awaking his pagazis for the march. 
Evidently Sheikh Hamed was gone stark mad, other- 
wise why should he be so frantic for the march at such 
an early hour? The dew was falling heavily, and 
chilled one like frost ; and an ominous murmur of deep 
discontent responded to the early call on all sides. Pre- 
suming, however, that he had obtained better information 
than we had. Sheikh Thani and I resolved to be governed 
as the events proved him to be right or wrong. 

As all were discontented, this night march was per- 
formed in deep silence. The thermometer was at 53°, 
we being about 4,500 feet above the level of the sea. 
The pagazis, almost naked, walked quickly in order to 
keep warm, and by so doing many a sore foot was 
made by stumbling against obtrusive roots and rocks, 
and treading on thorns. At 3 a.m. we arrived at the 
village of Unyambogi, where we threw ourselves down 
to rest and sleep, until dawn should reveal what else 
was in store for the hard-dealt with caravans. 

It was broad daylight when I aw^oke ; the sun was 
flaring his hot beams in my face. Sheikh Thani came 
soon after to inform me that Hamed had gone to Kiti 
two hours since ; but he, when asked to accompany 



June, 1871.] MAGUNDA MEALI TO UNYANYEMBE, 207 

him, positively refused, exclaiming against it as folly, 
and utterly unnecessary, when my advice was asked by 
Thani. I voted the whole thing as sheer nonsense ; 
and, in turn, asked him what a terekeza was for ? 
Was it not an afternoon march to enable caravans to 
reach water and food ? Thani replied that it was. 
I then asked him if there was no water or food to be 
obtained in Unyambogi. Thani replied that he had 
not taken pains to inquire, but was told by the villagers 
that there was an abundance of matama, hindi, maweri, 
sheep, goats, and chickens in their village at cheap 
prices, such as were not known in Ugogo. 

" Well, then," said I, "if Hamed wants to be a fool, 
and kill his pagazis, why should we ? I have as much 
cause for haste as Sheikh Hamed ; but Unyanyembe 
is far yet, and 1 am not going to endanger my 
property by playing the madman." 

As Thani had reported, we found an abundance 
of provisions at the village, and good sweet water 
from some pits close by. A sheep cost one shukka ; six 
chickens were also purchased at that price ; six measures 
of matama, maweri, or hindi, were procurable for the 
same sum ; in short, we were coming, at last, into 
the land of plenty. 

On the 10th June we arrived at Kiti after a journey 
of four hours and a half, where we found the irrepres- 
sible Hamed halted in sore trouble. He who would be 
a Caesar, proved to be an irresolute Antony. He had 
to sorrow over the death of a favourite slave girl^ the 
loss of five dish-dashes (Arab shirts), silvered-sleeve and 
gold-embroidered jackets, with which he had thought to 
enter Unyanyembe in state, as became a merchant of 
his standing, which had disappeared with three ab- 
sconding servants, besides copper trays, rice, and pilau 



208 BOW J FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

dishes, and two bales of cloth with runaway Wan* 
gwana pngazis. Seh'm, my Arab interpreter, asked 
him, " What are you doing here, Sheikh Hamed ? 
I thought you were well on the road to Unyanyembe.'* 
Said he, " Could I leave Thani, my friend, behind ?" 

Kiti abounded in cattle and grain, and we were 
able to obtain food at easy rates. The Wakimbu, 
emigrants from Ukimbu, near Urori, are a quiet race, 
preferring the peaceful arts of agriculture to war ; of 
tending their flocks to conquest. At the least rumor 
of war tliey remove their property and family, and 
emigrate to the distant wilderness, where they begin 
to clear the land, and to hunt the elephant for his 
ivory. Yet we found them to be a fine race, and 
well armed, and seemingly capable, by their numbers 
and arms, to compete with any tribe. But here, as 
elsewhere, disunion makes them weak. They are mere 
small colonies, each colony ruled by its own chief; 
whereas, were they united, they might make a very 
respectable front before an enemy. 

Our next destination was Msalalo, distant fifteen 
miles from Kiti. Hamed, after vainly searching for 
his runaways and the valuable property he had lost, 
followed us, and tried once more, when he saw us 
encamped at Msalalo, to pass us ; but his pagazis failed 
him, the march having been so long. 

Welled Ngaraiso was reached on the 15th, after a 
three and a half hours' march. It is a flourishing 
little place, where provisions were almost twice a 
cheap as they were at Unyambogi. Two hours' march 
south is Jiweh la Mkoa, on the old road, towards which 
the road which we have been travelling since leaving 
Bagamoyo was now rapidly leading. 

Dnyanyembe being near, the pagazis and soldiers 



JuNB,1871.] MAQUNDA MKALI TO UNYANYEMBK 209 

having beliaved excellently during the lengthy marches 
we had lately made, I purchased a bullock for three 
doti, and had it slaughtered for their special benefit. 
I also gave each a khete of red beads to indulge his 
appetite for whatever little luxury the ccAintry afforded. 
Milk and honey were plentiful, and three frasilah of 
sweet potatoes were bought for a shukka, equal to 
about 40 cents of our money. 

The 13th June brought us to the last village of 
Magunda Mkali, in the district of Jiweh la Singa, after a 
short march of eight miles and three-quarters. Kusuri 
— so called by the Arabs — is called Konsuli by the 
Wakimbu who inhabit it. This is, however, but one 
instance out of many where the Arabs have misnamed 
or corrupted tlie native names of villages and districts. 

Between Ngaraiso and Kusuri we pa sed the village 
of Kirurumo, now a thriving place, with many a 
thriving village near it. As we passed it, the people 
came out to greet the Musungu, whose advent had been 
so long heralded by his loud-mouthed caravans, and 
whose soldiers had helped them win the day in a battle 
against their fractious brothers of Jiweh la Mkoa. 

A little further on we came across a large khambi, 
occupied by Sultan bin Mohammed, an Omani Arab of 
high descent, who, as soon as he was notified of my 
approach, came out to welcome me, and invite me to his 
khambi. As his harem lodged in his tent, of course 1 
was not invited thither ; but a carpet outside was ready 
for his visitor. After the usual questions had been 
asked about my health, the news of the road, the latest 
from Zanzibar and Oman, he asked me if I had much 
cloth with me. This was a question often asked by 
owners of down caravans, and the reason of it is that 
the Arabs, in their anxiety to make as much as possible 

p 



210 EOW J FOUND LIVINQBTONE. 

of their cloth at the ivory ports on the Tanganika and 
elsewhere, are liable to forget that they should retain a 
portion for the do\vn marches. As, indeed, I had but a 
bale left of the quantity of cloth retained for provision- 
ing my party on the road, when outfitting my caravans 
on the coast, I could unblushirigly reply in the negative. 
A few minutes later Slieikli Hamed was announced, 
and immediately appeared, making a profound saluta- 
tion before the great man, with great pretensions to 
kiss his hands, and his " Kaif halek " evinced great 
anxiety to know if Sultan bin Mohammed was '' well — 
quite, quite well." For about five minutes the two Arabs 
exchanged anxious inquiries as to each others health 
and prospects. Then there was a little breathing pause, 
and the same question which had been propounded to 
me about my cloth was given to Hamed. " Very little 
indeed," answered the Sheikh ; and yet Sultan bin Mo- 
hammed and I, knew well that he had fifty-five bales 
with his caravan. 

The stranger Arab sent his servant with a goat's 
skin full of the beautiful and white rice of Unyanyembe 
to my khambi at Kusuri, a gift I felt very much dis- 
posed to decline, after the negative I had been com- 
pelled to give him. He also offered to convey any 
letters or small parcels I might wish to send to 
Zanzibar ; and, on being informed that I had left a 
white man sick at Mpwapwa, he promised to conduct 
him to Zanzibar. 

Soon after arriving at Kusuri, a party of Wasawahili 
elephant hunters settled at Jiweh la Singa, paid me a 
visit, under the leadership of an old man who had once 
been Diwan of Bagamoyo. Though they brought no- 
thing with them as a present, they did not fail to beg 
for paper, curry, and soap — three things I could very 



June, 1871.] MAGUNDA MKALl TO UNYANYEMBE. 2U 

ill spare, as the Makata swamp had made such stock 
but small. 

I halted a day at Kusuri to give my caravan a rest, 
after its long series of marches, before venturing on the 
two days' march through tlie uninhabited wilderness 
that separates the district of Jiweh la Singa Uyanzi 
from the district of Tura in Unyanyembe. Hamed 
preceded, promising to give Sayd bin Salim notice of 
my coming, and to request him to provide a tembe 
for me. 

On the 15th, having ascertained that Sheikh Thani 
would be detained several days at Kusuri, owing to the 
excessive number of his people who were laid up with 
that dreadful plague of East Africa, the small-pox, I 
bade him farewell, and my caravan struck out of Kusuri 
once more for the wilderness and tlie jungle. A little 
before noon we halted at the khambi of Mgongo Tembo, 
or the Elephant's Back — so called from a wave of rock 
whose back, stained into dark brownness by atmospheric 
influences, is supposed by the natives to resemble the 
blue-brown back of this monster of the forest. My 
caravan had quite an argument with me here, as to 
whether we should make the terekeza on this day or 
on the next. The majority was of the opinion that the 
next day would be the best for a terekeza ; but I, being 
the " bana," consulting my own interests, insisted, not 
without a flourish or two of my whip, that the terekeza 
should be made on this day. 

Mgongo Tembo, when Burton and Speke passed by, 
was a promising settlement, cultivating many a fair acre 
of ground. But two years ago war broke out, for some 
bold act of its people upon caravans, and the Arabs 
came from Unyanyembe with their Wangwana servants, 
attacked them, burnt the villages, and laid waste the 

P 2 



212 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

work of years. Since that time Mgongo Tembo has 
been but blackened wrecks of houses, and the fields a 
sprouting jungle. 

A cluster of date palm-trees, overtopping a dense 
grove close to the mtoni of Mgongo Tembo, revived 
my recollections of Egypt. The banks of the stream, 
wn'th their verdant foliage, presented a strange contrast 
to the brown and dry appearance of the jungle which 
lay on either side. 

At 1 P.M. we resumed our loads and walking staffs, 
and in a short time were en route for the Ngliwhalah 
Mtoni, distant eight and three quarter miles from the 
khambi. The sun was hot ; like a globe of living, 
seething flame, it flared its heat full on our heads ; 
then as it descended towards the west, scorched the air 
before it was inlialed by the lungs which craved it. 
Kibuyus of water were emptied speedily to quench the 
fierce heat that burned the throat and lungs. One 
pagazi, stricken heavily with the small-pox, succumbed, 
and threw himself down on tlie roadside to die. We 
never saw him afterwards, for the progress of a caravan 
on a terekeza, is something like that of a ship in a 
hurricane. The caravan must proceed — woe befall him 
who lags behind, for hunger and thirst will overtake 
him — so must a ship drive before the fierce gale to 
escape foundering — woe befall him who falls over- 
board 1 

An abundance of water, good, sweet, and cool, was 
found in the bed of the mtoni in deep stony reservoirs. 
Here also the traces of furious torrents were clearly 
visible as at Mabunguru. 

The Nghwhalah commences in Ubanarama to the 
north — a country famous for its fine breed of donkeys- — 
\nd after running south, south-south-west, crosses the 



June, 1871.] MAGU^^DA MKALI TO UNYANYEMBE. 212 

Unyanyembe road, from which point it lias more of a 
westerly turn. 

On the 16th we arrived at Madedita, so called froiu 
a village which was, but is now no more. Madedita is 
twelve and a half miles from the Nghwhalah Mtoni. 
A pool of good water a few hundred yards from the 
roadside is the only supply caravans can obtain, nearer 
than Tura in Unyamwezi. The tsetse or chufwa-fly, as 
called by the Wasawahili, stung us dreadfully, which is 
a sign that large game visit the pool sometimes, but 
must not be mistaken for an indication that there is 
any in the immediate neighbourhood of the water. A 
single pool so often frequented by passing caravans, 
which must of necessity halt here, could not be often 
visited by tlie animals of the forest, who are shy in this 
part of Africa of the haunts of man. 

At dawn the next day we were on the road striding 
at a quicker pace than on most days, since we were 
about to quit Magunda Mkali for the more populated 
and better land of Unyamwezi. The forest held its 
own for a wearisomely long time, but at the end of 
two hours it thinned, then dwarfed into low jungle, 
and finally vanished altogether, and we had arrived on 
the soil of Unyamwezi, with a broad plain, swelling, 
subsiding, and receding in lengthy and grand un- 
dulations in our front to one indefinite horizontal line 
which purpled in the far distance. The view consi^sted 
of fields of grain ripening, which followed the contour 
of the plain, and which rustled merrily before the 
morning breeze that came laden with the chills oi 
Usagara. 

At 8 A.M. we had arrived at the frontier village oi 
Unyamwezi, Eastern Tura, wliich we invaded without 
any regard to the disposition of the few inhabitanti^ 



J14 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

who lived there. Here we found Nondo, a runaway 
of Speke's, one of those who had sided with Baraka 
against Bombay, who, desiring to engage himself with 
me, was engaging enough to furnish lioney and sherbet 
to his former companions, and lastly to the pagazis. 
It was only a short breathing pause we made here, 
having another hour's march to reach Central Tura. 

The road from Eastern Tura led through vast fields 
of millet, Indian corn, holcus sorghum, maweri, or 
panicum, or bajri, as called by the Arabs ; gardens of 
sweet potatoes, large tracts of cucumbers, water-melons, 
mush-melons, and pea-nuts which grew in the deep 
furrows between the ridges of the holcus. 

Some broad-leafed plantain plants were also seen in 
the neighbourhood of the villages, which as we ad- 
vanced became very numerous. The villages of the 
Wakimbu are like those of the Wagogo, square, flat- 
roofed, enclosing an open area, which is sometimes 
divided into three or four parts by fences of matama 
stalks. 

At Central Tura, where we encamped, we had evi- 
dence enough of the rascality of the Wakimbu of Tura. 
Hamed, who, despite his efforts to reach Unyanyembe 
in time to sell his cloths before other Arabs came with 
cloth supplies, was unable to compel his pagazis to the 
double march every day, was also encamped at Central 
Tura, together with the Arab servants who preferred 
Hamed's imbecile haste, to Thani's cautious advance. 
Our first niglit in Unyamwezi was very exciting indeed. 
The Musungu's camp was visited by two crawling 
thieves, but they were soon made aware by the por- 
tentous click of a trigger that the white man's camp 
was well guarded. 

Hamed's camp was next visited; but here also the 



Jmni, 1871.J TUBA TO UNYANYEMBE. 216 

restlessness of the owner frustrated their attempts, for 
he was pacing backwards and forwards through his 
camp, with a loaded gun in his hand ; and the thieves 
were obliged to rehnquish the chance of stealing any 
of hi^ bales. From Hamed's they proceeded to Has- 
san's camp (one of the Arab servants), where they were 
successful enough to reach and lay bold of a couple of 
bales ; but, unfortunately, they made a noise, which 
awoke the vigilant and quick-eared slave, who snatched 
his loaded musket, and in a moment had shot one of 
them through the heart. Such were our experiences of 
the Wakimbu of Tura. 

The following morning the neighbouring villages 
were made aware of the sad accident which had befallen 
their number ; but though they were bold thieves by 
night, they proved to be soulless cowards by day, and 
did not resent the deed by word or even a look. This 
day was a halt, and the inhabitants of Tura brought to 
the camp such abundant stores of honey and ghee, 
sweet potatoes and grain, that I was enabled for two 
doti to feast my men, for the celebration of our arrival 
in Unyamwezi. 

On the 18th the three caravans, Hamed's, Hassan's, 
and my own, left Tura by a road which zig-zagged 
towards all points through the tall matama fields. In 
an hour's time we had passed Tura Perro, or Western 
Tura, and had entered the forest again, whence the 
Wakimbu of Tura obtain their honey, and where 
they excavate deep traps for the elephants with which 
the forest is said to abound. An hour's march from 
Western Tura brought us to a ziwa, or pond. There 
were two, situated in the midst of a small open mbuga, 
or plain, which, even at this late season, was yet soft 
from the water which overflows it during the rainy 



216 BOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, 

season. After resting three hours, we started on the 
terekeza, or afternoon march. 

It was one and the same forest that we had entered 
soon after leaving Western Tura, that w^e travelled 
tln^ough until we reached the Kwala Mtoni, or, as 
Burton has misnamed it on his map, " Kwale." The 
water of this mtoni is contained in large ponds, or 
deep depressions in the wide and crooked gully of 
Kwala. In these ponds a species of mud-fish was 
found, off one of which I made a meal, by no means to 
be despised by one who had not tasted fish since leaving 
Bagamoyo. Probably, if I had my choice, being, when 
occasion demands it, rather fastidious in my tastes, I 
would not select the mud-fish. 

From Tura to the Kwala Mtoni is seventeen and 
a half miles, a distance which, however easy it may 
be traversed once a fortnight, assumes a prodigious 
length when one has to travel it almost every other day, 
at least, so my pagazis, soldiers, and followers found it, 
and their murmurs were very loud when I ordered the 
signal to be sounded on the march. Abdul Kader, the 
tailor who had attached himself to me, as a man ready- 
handed at all things, from mending a pair of pants, 
making a delicate entremets, or shooting an elephant^ 
but whom the interior proved to be the weakliest of the 
weakly, unfit for anything except eating and drinking 
— almost succumbed on this march. 

Long ago the little stock of goods which Abdul had 
brougl't from Zanzibar folded in a pocket-handkerchief, 
and with which he was about to buy ivory and slaves, 
and make his fortune in tlie famed land of Unyamwezi, 
had disappeared with the great eminent hopes he had 
built on them, like those of Alnaschar the unfortu- 
nate owner of crockery in the Arabian tale. He came 



JuN£,1871.J TUBA TO UNYANYEMBE. 217 

to me as we prepared for the march, with a most 
dolorous tale about his approaching death, wliicli he felt 
in his bones, and weary back : his legs would barely 
bold him up; in short, be had utterly collapsed— would 
I take mercy on him, and let him depart ? The cause 
of this extraordinary request, so unlike the spirit with 
which he had left Zanzibar, eager to possess tlie ivory 
and slaves of Unyamwezi, was that on tbe last long 
march two of my donkeys being dead, I bad ordered that 
the two saddles which they had carried, should be Abdul 
Kader's load to Unyanyembe. The weight of the 
saddles was 16 lbs., as the spring balance -scale indicated, 
yet Abdul Kader became weary of life, as he counted 
the long marches that intervened between the mtoni 
and Unyanyembe. On the ground he fell prone, to 
kiss my feet, begging me in the name of God to 
permit him to depart. 

As I bad had some experience of Hindoos, Mala- 
barese, and coolies in Abyssinia, I knew exactly how to 
deal with a case like this. Unhesitatingly I granted the 
request as soon as asked, for as mucb tired as Abdul 
Kader said, he was of life, I was with Abdul Kader's 
worth lessness. But the Hindi did not want to be left in 
the jungle, he said, but after arriving in Unyanyembe. 
" Ob," said I, " tben you must reach Unyanyembe first ; 
in the meanwhile you will carry those saddles there for 
the food wbich you must eat." " Have you no mercy ?" 
he implored. " None for such an incorrigibly lazy 
wretch as you," T replied, accompanying my words 
witli a vigorous and most necessary application of my 
donkey lash, which resuscitated the moribund into 
active, if not useful life. 

I confess I was somewhat ill-tempered on the morn- 
ing of the 18th, somewhat tired also, and my kirangozi 



218 now 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

came in for a fair share of scolding. I had no energetic 
Muinyi Kidogo such as Burton had, otherwise I should 
have valued such a man, methinks, much more highly 
than my ])redecessor. Many a time I sighed for such a 
man, when, all my eloquence failing to inspire my 
caravan for the march, I had recourse to threats, and 
sometimes to flogging right and left to rouse the 
pagazis and soldiers up. Upon every occasion of a 
terekeza it was I who had to order, no one ever had 
occasion to request that I should make one — it was I 
who had to aigue its utility and necessity, I who was 
obliged to cut sh<jrt Bombay's vain words of pleading, 
and rouse the pagazis out of the khambi by premonitory 
cracks of my whip. 

Very passionate were my reproaches to the kirangozi 
for his mulish obtuseness in not perceiving that as 
we neared Unyanyembe I could not fail to remember 
when I l)akshished those who had pleased me — that the 
kirangozi, instead of going when I told him, always 
abided by the advice of the pagazis. I asked him 
with how many doti he had been bribed by the pagazis 
to make small marches and long halts. He replied 
that not one of the pagazis was going to give him any 
cloth that he knew of. '' Well, then," I asked, " how 
many doti could I give you if you pleased me, and did 
what I told you ?" " Oh, many, many !" he answered. 
" Very well, then," I said, " take up your load, and let 
me see from here to Unyanyembe how hard and how 
fast you can walk;" upon which he promised most 
solemnly to abide by my word, only to march when 
I ordered him, to halt only when I deemed it ne- 
.cessary. 

As the march to Rubuga was eighteen and three- 
quarter miles, the pagazis walked fast and long without 



JtTNE, 1871.] BUBUOA TO UNYANYEMBE. 2,U 

resting. The kirangozi had made, as he had promised, 
his legs and arms strong with a vengeance, for he 
travelled the whole distance to Rubuga Central without 
a halt, much to the dismay of his train of pagazis, who 
thought he was gone mad. Hitherto, we had been 
compelled by the kirangozi to make an afternoon 
march when the distance was but fifteen or sixteen 
miles. 

Eubuga, in the days of Burton, according to his book, 
was a prosperous district. Even when we passed, the 
evidences of wealth and prosperity which it possessed 
formerly, were plain enough in the wide extent of its 
grain fields, which stretched to the right and left of the 
Unyanyembe road for many a mile. But they were 
only evidences, of what once were numerous villages, a 
well-cultivated and populous district, rich in herds of 
cattle and stores of grain. All the villages are burnt 
down, the people have been driven north three or four 
days from Rubuga, the cattle were taken by force, the 
grain fields were left standing, to be overgrown with 
jungle and rank weeds. We passed village after 
village that had been burnt, and were mere blackened 
heaps of charred timber and smoked clay ; field after 
field of grain ripe years ago was yet standing in 
the midst of a crop of gums and thorns, mimosa and 
kolquall. 

We arrived at the village, occupied by about sixty 
Wangwana, who have settled here to make a living by 
buying and selling ivory. Food is provided for them 
in the deserted fields of the people of Rubuga. We 
were very tired and heated from the long march, but 
the pagazis had all arrived by 3 p.m. 

At the Wangwana village we met Amer bin Sultan, 
the very type of an old Arab sheikh, such as we read 



220 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

of in books, with a snowy beard, and a clean reverend 
face, wiio was returning to Zanzibar after a ten years' 
residence in Unyanyembe. He presented me with a 
goat, and a goat-skin full of rice ; a most acceptable gift 
in a place where a goat cost five shukkas. 

After a day's halt at Rubuga, during which I 
despatched soldiers to notify Sheikh Sayd bin Salim 
and Sheikh bin Nasib, the two chief dignitari(?s of 
Unyanyembe, of my comings on the 21st of June we 
resumed the march for Kigwa, distant five hours. The 
road ran through another forest similar to that which 
separated Tura from Rubuga, the country rapidly 
sloping as we proceeded westward. Kigwa we found 
to have been visited by the same vengeance which 
rendered Rubuga such a waste. 

The next day, after a three and a half hours' rapid 
march, we crossed the mtoni — which was no mtoni — 
separating Kigwa from Unyanyembe district, and after 
a short halt to quench our thirst, in three and a half 
hours more arrived at Shiza. It was a most delightful 
march, though a long one, for its picturesqueness of 
scenery which every few minutes was revealed, and the 
proofs we everywhere saw of the peaceable and indus- 
trious disposition of the people. A short half hour 
from Shiza we beheld the undulating plain wherein the 
Arabs have chosen to situate the central depot which 
commands such a wide and extensive field of trade. 
The lowing of cattle and the bleating of the goats and 
slieep were everywhere heard, giving the country a 
happy, pastoral aspect. 

The Sultan of Shiza desired me to celebrate my 
arrival in Unyanyembe, with a five -gallon jar of 
pombe, which he brought for that purpose. 

As the pombe was but stale ale in taste, and milk and 



J ONE, 1871.] UNYANYEMBE. 221 

water in color, after drinking a small glassful I passed 
it to the delighted soldiers and pagazis. At my request 
the Sultan brought a fine fat bullock, for which he 
accepted four and a half doti of Merikani. The 
bullock was immediately slaughtered and served out to 
the caravan as a farewell feast. 

No one slept much that night, and long before 
the dawn the fires were lit, and great steaks were 
broiling, that their stomachs might rejoice before part- 
ing with the Musungu, whose bounty they had so often 
tasted. Six rounds of powder were served to each 
soldier and pagazi who ow^ied a gun, to fire away 
when we should be near the Arab houses. The meanest 
pagazi had his best cloth about his loins, and some 
were exceedingly brave in gorgeous Ulyah " Coombeesa 
Poonga " and crimson " Jawah," the glossy " Rehani," 
and the neat " Dabwani." The soldiers were mustered in 
new tarbooshes, and the long white shirts of the Mrima 
and the Island. For this was the great and happy day 
which had been on our tongues ever since quitting the 
coast, for which we had made those noted marches 
latterly — one hundred and seventy -eight and a half 
miles in sixteen days, including pauses — something over 
eleven miles a day ! 

The signal sounded, and the caravan was joyfully off 
with banners flying, and trumpets and horns blaring. 
A short tw^o and a half hours' march brought us w^ithin 
sight of Kwikuru, which is about two miles south of 
Tabora, the main Arab town ; on the outside of which 
we saw a long line of men in clean shirts, whereat we 
opened our charged batteries, and fired a volley of 
small arms such as Kwikuru seldom heard before. The 
pagazis closed up and adopted the swagger of veterans : 
the soldiers blazed away uninterruptedly, while I 



222 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

seeing that the Arabs were advancing towards me, left 
the ranks, and held out my hand, which was immediately 
grasped by Sheikh Sayd bin Sahm, and then by about 
two dozen people, and thus our entree into Unyanyembe 
was effected. 




UGOGO MAN AND WOMAN. 



CHAPTER YII. 



GEOGRAPHICAL AND ETHNOGRAPHICAL REMARKS. 

The geography of the country through which we have 
just traversed has been described aheadj^ under its 
various aspects — as we were informed through native 
reports, and as we saw it ourselves— in the preceding 
pages. But it would be as well to summarise, as 
cleaily as possible, in a chapter specially devoted to 
the geography and ethnography of the country, what 
additional knowledge we have gained of the interior of 
Africa. 

There were three routes to Unyanyembe from Baga- 
moyo, either of which might have been taken by our 
Expedition ; but two of them were already known by 
the minute description which we have received from 
my predecessors in this part of Africa — Messrs. Burton, 



224 now J FOUND LJVJXG STONE. 

Speke, and Grant. There was one, a more northern 
and direct route to Unyanyembe, which was said to 
lead through Northern Uzaramo, Ukwere, Ukami, 
Udoe, Useguhha or Usegnra, Usagara, Ugogo, Uyanzi 
thence to Unyamwezi. It was this which I adopted. 

As the crow flies, or, in geographical parlance, 
recti Hneally, the distance from Bagamoyo to Unyan- 
yembe is nearly 6° of longitude, or three hundred and 
sixty miles. The sinuosity of the path taken by 
caravans, which in Afri-:;^ is adapted to the lay of 
the country, and follows the easier, less dangerous, 
more available course, extends the distance to be 
traversed, to over five hundred and twenty miles. 
I reckon of course by the time occupied by the 
marches, and the rate of progress, which I presume to 
be not more nor less than 2 * 5 miles per hour. 

That portion of country extending from Bagamoyo 
to Kikoka is called the '' Mrima " — the hill ; it may 
also be designated Sawahili, and also Zanguebar. We 
recognize the latter name as figuring prominently in 
our ancient maps, as the designation given to a lengthy 
strip of sea-coast ertending from the mouth of the 
Jub, to Cape Delgado, or from the equator to 
S. lat. 10° 41". Sawahili means the "sea-coast," hence 
the people who live on this sea-coast of Zanguebar 
are called Wasawahili, and their language, Kisawahili. 
And it may here be mentioned that the prefix U, means 
country, Wa, for persons in the plural, M, is the sin- 
gular for one person. Thus U-zaramo, means country 
of Zaramo ; Wa-zaramo, would mean people of Zaramo ; 
M-zaramo, one person of Zaramo; Ki-zaramo, language 
of Zaramo. 

Bagamoyo is a small port on the Mrima, Sawahili, oi 
Zanguebar coast, which stands nearly opposite the port 



GEOORAPHICAL AND ETHNOGRAPHICAL REMARKS. 226 

of Zanzibar, whither caravans generally bound for Un- 
yanyembe land. A few miles higher up, north, are the 
ports of Whinde and Saadani, situated one on each side 
of the mouth of the River Wami. Four miles south of 
Bagamoyo is Kaole, a small village which contains 
a gurayza or fort, with about a dozen Baluches for a 
garrison. South of Kaole is Konduchi, and southward 
still is Dar Salaam, a new port established by the late 
Sultan. South of Dar Salaam is Mbuamaji, quite an 
important rendezvous for caravans bound for the 
interior. About sixty miles south of Mbuamaji is the 
most northern mouth of the Rufiji river, opposite the 
island of Mafia or Monfia ; and a degree further south 
we come to the famous port of Kilwa, that great 
entrepot of slave traders. 

The strip of land known as the Mrima is a most 
important one in the eyes of the civilized world, for 
upon here, now that the slave question is being 
agitated, our attention should be seriously concentrated* 
Its importance to us, arises from the fact that by means 
of its ports, Mombasah, Bueni, Saadani, Whinde, Baga- 
moyo, Kaole, Konduchi, Dar Salaam, Mbuamaji, and 
Kilwa, three-fourths of the slaves captured, kidnapped, 
or bought in the interior, are shipped abroad. This 
fact should be remembered. 

Once we cross the Kingani River on our road to 
Unyanyerabe, we may be said to have left the country 
of the Wamrima, and to have touched upon the most 
northern extremity of Uzaramo. The Sultan of Zanzibar 
has established a post at Kikoka, four miles west of the 
Kingani, and by this has made good his claim to call 
the ten miles of country from Bagamoyo to Kikoka his 
own. As there are no inhabitants between the river 
and Kikoka, his claim is not disputed. 

Q 



226' HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

On our right — which is to the north of the Un^^an- 
yembe road — stretches Ukwere, two days' marc;h, or 
twenty-five miles. West, Ukwere extends from Eosako 
to Kisemo, a distance of sixty miles. From Kisemo, 
west, half-way to Mikeseh, or east of the Kira Peak, 
extends Ukami. This country formerly stretched as far, 
as and included Simbamwenni, the capital of the Wase- 
guhha ; but tlie Wadoe, their northern neighbours, in- 
vaded and conquered the inhabitants, who were in 
their turn conquered bj the powerful tribes of the 
Waseguhha. From Kira Peak to Ulagalla is included 
under the name of Udoe, still a large country, which 
overlaps, on the north, Ukami, eastward beyond 
Ukwere to the Mi'ima, or the coast. This portion, 
between Kira Peak and Ulagalla is the south-western 
extremity of tlie territory of the Wadoe. 

Useguhha begins at Ulagalla, and its western extre- 
mity is on the eastern bank of the Makata. 

The whole of this country, embracing these several 
districts of Ukwere, Ukami, Udoe, and Useguhha, is 
drained by the Kingani, and its tributaries - or, I should 
^ay, by its chief tributary, the Ungerengeri. By 
adopting this northern route I was enabled to discover 
the principal branch of the Kingani in the Ungerengeri, 
called Rufu by the natives, as it enters into the main 
river. Speke and Grant discovered the Mgeta, another 
branch, flowing from west of the Mkambaku range, and 
circling southerly round about, thus draining the whole 
of Ukutu and Uzaramo. The area of land drained by 
the Kingani and its tributaries may be estimated at 
not more than twelve thousand square miles. 

It will be noticed by those who study African 
geography, that Speke has placed on his map, near 
long. E. 37°, a range of mountains called the Mkam- 



GEOGRAPHICAL AND ETHNOGRAPHICAL REMARKS. 227 

Daku range, extending north at least 1°. That part of 
the range called the '* Mkambaku " our Expedition saw, 
but the most northern portion of it is known as the 
Uruguru mountains. At the foot of its most northern 
extremity, as the range deflects eastward, the capital of 
southern Useguhha, Simbamwenni, is situated. 

Speke says, in 'Journal of the Discovery of the 
Sources of the Nile,' p. 32 : '' Where the Kingani itself 
rises, I never could find out ; though I liave heard that 
its source lies in a gurgling spring on the eastern face 
of the Mkambaku ; by which account the Mgeta is 
made the longer branch of the two." By whatever 
name we distinguish this river — whether it be the Kin- 
gani, or the Hamdallah, as the Wamrima call it, or the 
Rufu, as the Wakwere, Wakami, Wadoe, and Wase- 
guhha call it — its source can be no longer matter of 
conjecture. Speke has discovered that the Mgeta, one 
of the two main branches, rises on the western slope of 
the Mkambaku, and has seen it sweeping round the 
south of Khutu. I have discovered that the second 
main branch — called Ungerengeri — rises west of the 
Mkambaku, or rather, the Uruguru mountains, and that 
it sweeps northward through Useguhha and Udoe to 
southern Ukwere, and Ukami, and thence into the Kin- 
gani. This river by the natives is known as the Rufu 
from the time it enters Ukwere, to its exit into the 
ocean tliree miles north of Bagamoyo. To the Arabs, 
however, this river, from the point of confluence of the 
several branches, is known as the Kingani. Under that 
name it will be best known to students of African tra- 
vellers' maps. 

The highest altitude reached by our Expedition 
between Bagamoyo and Simbamwenni in Useguhha, 
did not exceed one thousand feet, and, excepting for a 

Q 2 



5J28 HOW J FOUND LIVINGSTON/:. 

cone here and tliere visible to the north of Kingani 
Hera, and known as Dih'ma peaks, and in the neigh- 
bourhood of Mikeseh, the land appears to rise gradually, 
in a series of lengthy and parallel nnd illations, exten- 
sively wooded, jungly, or in smooth grassy ridges, the 
slopes falling easterly and westerly into depressions like 
wave-troughs, by means of which the drainage is 
carried soutlierly and south-westerly into the Unge- 
rengeri. 

Beyond Simbamwenni and westward of the Unge- 
rengeri we suddenly front towering and isolated cones 
with truncated summits, and these cones connected one 
with another by means of low saddles, or ridges, to an 
isolated group of mountains at least two thousand feet 
above the Ungerengeri, at the base of which, on the 
northern side of this stream, a lengthy, wooded ridge 
sweeps easterly, separating the Ungerengeri from the 
Wami. 

This bold aspect of the country is most gratifying to 
the eye of the stranger, who fancies that he is about to 
ascend higher altitudes, and obtain immunity from the 
fevers, which those ignorant of the nature of the 
African interior attribute only to the jungles and 
marshes of the maritime region. 

In one march, however, from Simbamwenni by a pass 
between the mountain group, we arrive at Simbo, 
whence we may obtain a clear view of the broad valley 
of the Great Makata, bounded by the high and bold 
group at our backs, on the east, by the glorious 
mountain range of Usagara, whose bold peaks and 
aspiring summits are buried in the clouds. 

I have devoted much time to the elucidation of the 
difference existing between the Kingani and the Wami 
river. It is only after satisfying myself that I have 



GEOGRAPHICAL AND ETHNOGRAPHICAL REMARKS. 229 

ventured to assert that the difference between these 
rivers is clear and positive. Arabs, Wararima and 
natives, and my own personal knowledge of the country 
a] id its superficial configuration, tend to establish be^ 
yond further doubt that the Kingani and the Wami are 
two separate and entirely distinct rivers. The Kingani 
enters the sea three miles nortli of Eagamoyo ; tlie 
Wami at nearly half-way between the ports of Whinde 
and Sa'adani. 

The following plan will best illustrate the water- 
system of this region : 




We have found tliat the Ungerengeri flows south- 
westerly to the Kingani, and from this point where we 
stand (Simbo) the formation of the country is clearly 
visible. On our right, as we turn our faces west, is 
the valley of the Makata, or the Wami, flowing north- 
ward and eastward ; on our left is the valley of the 
Ungerengeri with the river flowing, after a bold sweep 
northward, to the south-east. Our line of march 
hither from Bagamoyo has been nearly equi-distant 
from each river, with the Wami on our right and the 
Ungerengeri, or the Kingani, on our left. 



230 HOW 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

It will be seen, on reference to the above diagram, 
how one and the same river bears three or four dis- 
tinctly different names, and how very easily travellers 
may be baffled in the pursuit of geographical informa- 
tion. Like the Kingani with its series of different 
designations, the river issuing into the sea between 
tlie Mohammedan ports of Whinde and Sa'adani 
IS called the Wami, the Rudewa, the Makata, and the 
Mukondokwa. 

The first important stream which we find as we enter 
the broad plain, or the valley of Makata, is the Little 
Makata, which, though fordable at all seasons, becomes 
a swift and dangerous river to travellers in the height 
of the Masika season. After the Little Makata we 
come to a deep nullah which overflows with water during 
the rains, and a few hundred yards beyond we come 
to the Great Makata — the Wami, or the Mukondokwa 
— a stream capable of expanding into a mighty river 
five or six hundred yards broad. Beyond the Great 
Makata we come to the Mbengerenga, a branch of 
the Rudewa, which here flows parallel with our 
line of march, emptying into the Wami at or near 
the confluence of the Great Makata with the Little 
Makata. Crossing the Mbengerenga, we presently come 
to another small branch of the Rudewa, and see the 
Rudewa itself, as it approaches our road and whirls 
round sharply to the east. Beyond this, as Ave turn 
our faces south-west, we come to the Uronga, a river 
rising in Mundu, northern Usagara, and, having 
reached our camp at Rehenneko, we strike across an 
angle of the mountains and arrive at the Makata again 
under the name of the Mukondokwa, as it is called by 
the Wasagara. Pursuing our way up the Mukondokwa 
Pass, along the same route pursued by Capts. Burton 



GEOQRAPHICAL AND ETHNOQIiAPIIICAL REMAKKS. 231 

and Speke, we arrive at a point in this valley where 
our various routes diverge, that of Burton and Speke 
leading up and along the summit of the Rubeho range, 
ours inclining northward considerably, yet keeping 
on a parallel line with their route with an interval of 
from twenty to thirty miles between. 

Burton, soon after leaving the valley of the Mukon- 
dokwa, came to a plateau which *' ended in a descent 
with rapid slopes, over falls and steps of rock and 
boulder, into the basin of the Rumuma river. It is a 
southern influent, or a bifurcation of the Mukondokwa, 
and it drains the hills to the south-west of the Rumuma 
district, whereas the main stream arising in the high- 
lands of the Wahumba, or Wamusai, carries off the 
waters of the lands to the west." 

Not eleven miles from the ford where Burton and 
Speke's and my own route parted, I came to a lake, the 
Lake Ugombo, which, though of limited dimensions, 
plays a small part in the water system of East Africa. 
For this small lake, barely three miics in length, receives 
the Rumuma and discharges it through a narrow chasm 
into the Mukondokwa. " The main-stream does not 
rise in the highlands of the Wahumba, or the Wamusai, 
nor does it carry the waters of the lands on the west;" 
but rises at least one degree north of the latitude of 
Ugombo in the mountains of Kema Kaguru, in what is 
known in Kisagara as Mundu, which is also the birth- 
place of the stream Uronga, or Ulonga. 

Among the other feeders of this Mukondokwa river 
besides the Rumuma are the streams Rufuta and 
Mdunku, which rise in Kivya, the Myombo and 
Mdunwi. 

The " lands on the west " of the longitude of Rubeho 
— at least, on our route — are drained by means of 



232 HOW 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

nullahs, which, on account of the general drought in 
this dry region, fail to carry the water into any stream. 
These nullahs, or dry water-courses, or deepened 
fiumaras — which we in America would call gulches — 
absorb all the water that flows into them from the 
sterile regions beyond, or west of the Usagara moun- 
tains. The Mukondokwa river runs from north to 
south through the mountains of Usagara, thence swerv- 
ing easterly, serves to convey the waters discharged 
into it by the Rufuta, Eumuma, Myombo, and Mdunwi, 
easterly into the Indian Ocean. 

The rainfall west of Usagara is so slight that the 
sandy fiumaras, or gulches, seldom contribute any 
water to the Rufiji river. For from westward of 
Ugogi to Tura, in Unyamwezi, the drainage slopes 
southwards into the Ruhwha, or the Rufiji River. 

That sterile region, which comprises the northern 
Marenga Mkali, the whole of Ugogo and southern 
Uhumba, or Umasai, Ihange, and Mbogwe, have no 
drainage. Whatever rain falls is received by the 
shallow pools or small lakes^ which dot the interior 
of this region so thickly. Diiriug the dry season eva- 
poration takes place, and the water is drained from 
these pools by the steady north-east monsoons into 
the grander reservoirs of the lakes occupied by the 
Victoria N'Yanza, and thence into the Nile. Aftar 
the evaporation has taken place, the surface of this 
sterile region exhibits large expanses of country 
covered with saline incrustations, or with nitrate of 
soda. Those visible west of Chaga, in tbe district of 
Angaruka, the saline lagoons of Balibali, west of Kikui, 
and those seen by myself north of Mizanza, must tend 
to establish this theory. 

Beyond Ugogo the only streams worth mentioning 



QEOQRAPHIOAL AND ETHNOORAPEICAL REMARKS. 233 

liere are the Mdaburu and the Mabungiiru, which 
flow southerly into the Kisigo, which is placed one 
degree south of Kiwyeh. We are told that it is an 
important stream, and swift, by the Wagogo of Kiwyeh, 
and that it is haunted by numbers of hippoj)otami and 
crocodiles. The Kisigo empties into the Eufiji. 

Briefly it may be said of our march to Unyanyembe 
that its first stage was across the basin of the Kingani ; 
the second, across the basin of the Wami ; the third, 
across the water-shed of the Wanii ; the fourth, across 
the most northern portion of the basin of the Ruhwha, 
and the waterless region ; and the fifth, into the borders 
of the water- shed of the Lake Tanganika. 

Now, the reader might ask — and very properly 
too — '^ What profiteth it all — these tiresome descrip- 
tions of rivers, &c., with such odd, incomprehensible 
names ?" 

Patience ! reader ; that is precisely the point I was 
about to arrive at. If you look at the map accom- 
panying this book, you will perceive the suggestion 
conveyed to you by ray description of two particular 
rivers. 

First, it appears to me, that the Wami Eiver is 
available for commerce. I know that it can be navi- 
gated with ease by light-draught steamers drawing two 
or three feet — for a distance of two degrees recti! ineally, 
or nearly two hundred miles by water — from the port 
of Whinde to Mbumi, Usagara. All impediments 
to free navigation — sucli as the mangrove trees which 
on either bank in some places, especially near Ki- 
gongo's village, interlace their far-spreading branches 
— could be easily removed by an axe. 

Mbumi is within a couple of miles from the foot 
of the Usagara mountains, the sanatoria of East Africa, 



234 HOW I FO UND LI VINO ST ONE, 

The distance from Whinde to Mbnmi could with ease 
be traversed by a steamer in four days. 

Who wishes to civihze Africa ? Wlio wishes to 
open trade direct with Usagara, Useguhha, Ukutu, 
Uhehe ; to get the ivory, the sugar, the cotton, the 
orc}iilla-weed, the indigo, and the grain of tliese 
countries ? Here is an opportunity ! 

Four days by steamer bring the missionary to the 
healthy uplands of Africa, where he can live amongst 
the gentle Wasagara without fear or alarm; where he 
can enjoy the luxuries of civilized life without fear 
of being deprived of them, amid the most beautiful 
and picturesque scenes a poetic fancy could imagine ! 
Here is the greenest verdure, purest water ; here are 
valleys teeming with grain stalks, forests of tama- 
rind, mimosa, gum-copal tree ; here is the gigantic 
mvule, the stately mparamusi, the beautiful palm— a 
i^cene such as only a tropic sky covers ! Health and 
abundance of food are assured to the missionary ; gentle 
people are at his feet ready to welcome him ! Except 
civilized society, nothing that the soul of man can 
desire is lacking here ! 

From the village of Kadetamare a score of admirable 
mission sites are available, with fine health-giving 
breezes blowing over ihem, water in abundance at 
their feet, fertility unsurpassed around them, with 
docile, good-tempered people dwelling everywhere at 
peace with each other, and all travellers and neighbours. 

As the passes of Olympus unlocked the gates of the 
Eastern empire to the hordes of Othman ; as the passes 
of Kumayle and Suru admitted the British into Abj^s- 
sinia — so the passes of the Mukondokwa may admit the 
Gospel and its beneficent influences into the heart of 
savage Africa. 



GEOORAPBICAL AND ETENOORAPHICAL REMARKS. 235 

I can fancy old Kadetamare rubbing his hands Tsdth 
glee at the sight of the white man coming to teach his 
people the words of the " Mulungu " — the Sky Spirit ; 
how to sow, and reap, and build houses ; how to cure 
their sick, how to make themsehes comfortable ; — in 
short, how to be civilized. But the missionary, to be 
successful, must know his duties as well as a tliorough 
sailor must know how to reef, hand, and steer. He must 
be no kid-glove, effeminate man, no journal writer, no 
disputatious polemic, no silken stole and chasuble-loving 
priest — but a thorough earnest laborer in the garden of 
the Lord — a man of the David Livingstone, or of the 
Robert Moffatt stamp. 

The other river, the Rufiji or Ruhwha, is a still more 
important stream than the Wami. It is a much longer 
river, and discharges twice as much water into the 
Indian Ocean. It rises near some mountains about 
one hundred miles south-west of U bena. Kisigo River, 
the most northern and most important affluent of the 
Ruhwha, is supposed to flow into it near E. longitude 
35°; from the confluence to the sea, the Ruhwha 
has a length of 4° of direct longitude. This fact of 
itself must prove its importance and rank among the 
rivers of East Africa. Yery little is known of it except 
that it is navigable by small boats for eight tides, or 
say sixty miles up ; that Banyans trade for this distance 
up the river, and collect the ivory from the tribes on its 
banks. 

The traveller perceives a striking contrast between 
tlie lower and upper regions, or the maritime and sterile 
regions, in the growth of vegetation. In the valleys of 
the Ungerengeri and Wami, the power of production 
in the soil is remarkable. The rich black alluvial, the 
deposit for many ages of these rivers, knows no bounds 



236 now 1 FOUJ^D LIVINGSTONE, 

to its fertility. Every species of vegetation is shot up 
to gigaiitic proportions. The grass stalks are enlarged 
to the size of ordinary bamboo; and the trees, such as 
the mparamusi, and the mvule-trees, have stems a 
liundred feet high. The Indian corn giown in these 
valleys eclipses the finest crops in the bottom lands 
of Arkansas, Missouri, and Mississippi. The holcus 
sorghum, or matama, have stalks rivalling in thickness 
the finest sugar-cane, and some reach to the height of 
twelve feet. The density of the jungles is something 
appalliug, and the variety of species of plants and trees 
would task the skill of the most learned botanists to 
class them. 

In my diurnal accounts of our marches and expe- 
riences I have attempted to sketch out the nature of the 
country as it appeared to us during the time of transit. 
Through the maritime region our transit occuned 
during the Masika season, and as it progressed we were 
enabled to observe its effect on the grasses. 

When the Masika season begins, these grasses hardly 
ever appear above the knee ; but towards the end, they 
have grown to their full height. A month after the 
Masika, when they present quite a bleached appearance, 
the natives set fire to them, and the country for days 
afterwards, resounds with the roar of the fierce con- 
flagrations, canopied by a thick curtain of black smokf 
which even lends its sombre coloring to the sky. 

When these fires have raged through the forests, and 
have devoured the grass, then is the best time for tra- 
velling. Progress is easy, and almost double the num- 
ber of marches is effected, than while the grass presents 
constant impediments, from its density and height. The 
eye is then permitted to rove free over the swelling 
contours and low knolls, without the glance being dis- 



QEOORAPHTCAL AND ETJTNOORaPTIICAL BEMAliKS, 237 

turbed by a young forest of thick grasses directly be- 
tween you and the pleasing prospect, over whose tops 
only a man fifteen feet high could gratify his love of 
natural scenery. 

It were a difficult task to distinguish nice ethnical 
differences between the Wamrima and the more occi- 
dental Washensi. I am constantly wondering how Capt. 
Burton has been able to draw his fine lines — which, 
I must assure the reader, are imperceptible to ordinary 
men like myself. 

After Zanzibar, our debut into Africa is made vid 
Bagamoyo. At this place we may see Wangindo. Wa- 
sawahili, Warori, Wagogo, Wanyamwezi, Waseguhha, 
and Wasagara ; yet it would be a difficult task for any 
person, at mere sight of their features or dresses, to note 
the differences. Only by certain customs or distinctive 
marks, such as tattooing, puncturing of the lobes of the 
ears, ornaments, wearing the hair, &c., which would 
appear at first too trivial to note, could one discriminate 
between the various tribal representations. There are 
certainly differences, but not so varied or marked as 
they are reported. 

The Wasawahili — of course through their intercourse 
with semi-civilization — present us with a race, or tribe, 
influenced by a state of semi-civilized society, and are, 
consequently, better dressed, and appear to better ad- 
vantage than their more savage brethren further west. 
As it is said that underneath the Russian skin lies the 
Tartar, so it may be said that underneath the snowy 
dish-dasheh, or shirt, of the Msawahili one will find the 
true barbarian. In the street, or bazaar, he appears semi- 
Arabized ; his suavity of manner, his prostrations and 
genuflexions, the patois he speaks, all prove his contact 
and affinity with the dominant race, whose subject he is. 



238 EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

Once out of the coast towns, in the Washensi villages, 
he sheds the shirt that had half civilized him, and 
appears in all his deep blackness of skin, prognathous 
jaws, thick lips — the pure negro and barbarian. Not 
the keenest eye could detect a difference between him 
and the Mshensi, unless his attention had been drawn 
to the fact that the two men were of different tribes. 

The next tribe to which we are introduced are the 
Wakwere, who occupy a limited extent of country be- 
tween the Wazaramo and the Wadoe. They are the 
first representatives of the pure barbarian the traveller 
meets when but two days' journey from the sea-coast. 
They are a timid tribe, and a very unlikely people to 
commence an attack upon any body of men for mere 
plunder's sake. They have not a very good reputation 
among the Arab and Wasawahili traders. They are 
said to be exceedingly dishonest, of which I have not 
the least doubt. They furnished me with good grounds 
for believing these reports while encamped at Kingaru- 
Hera and Imbiki. The chiefs of the more eastern part 
of Ukwere profess nominal allegiance to the Diwans of 
the Mrima. They have selected the densest jungles 
wherein to establish their villages. Every avenue into 
one of their valleys is jealously guarded by strong 
wooden narrow gates, seldom over 4i feet high, and so 
narrow sometimes that one must enter sideways. 

These jungle islets, which in particular dot the extent 
of Ukwere, present formidable obstacles to a naked 
enemy. The plants, bushes, and young trees which 
form their natural defence are generally of tlie aloetic 
and thorny species, growing so dense, interlaced one 
with another, that the hardiest and most desperate 
robber would not brave the formidable array of sharp 
tlionis which bristle everywhere. 



QEOOBAPEICAL AND ETHNOGRAPHICAL REMARKS. 239 



Some of these jungle islets are infested with gangs of 
banditti, who seldom fail to take advantage of the weak- 
ness of a single wayfarer, more especially if he be a 
Mgwana, a freeman of Zanzibar, as every negro re- 
sident of the island of Zanzibar is distinguished by the 
Washensi natives of the interior. 

1%. ^//^l^^^. /'4' 







A GATE OF A VILLAGE- 



I should estimate the population of tikwere, allowing 
about 100 villages to this territory (which is not more 
than tldrty miles square, its bounds on the south being 
the Rufu river, and on the north the river Wami), at 
not more than 5000 souls. Were all these banded 
together under the command of one chief, the Wakwere 
might become a powerful tribe. 

After the Wakwere we come to the Wakami, a rem- 
nant of a once grand nation which occupied the lands 
from the Ungerengeri to the Great Makata River. 
Frequent wars with the Wadoe and the Waseguhha 



240 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

hav(3 reduced them to a narrow belt of country, ten 
rectilinear miles across, which may be said to be com- 
prised between Kira Peak and the stony ridge bounding 
the valley of the Ungerengeri on the east, within a 
couple of miles from the east bank of the river. 

They are as numerous as bees in the Ungerengeri 
valley. Its unsurpassed fertility has been a great in- 
ducement to retain for these people the distinction of a 
tribe. By the means of a spy-glass one may see, as he 
stands on that stony ridge looking down into the fair 
valley, clusters of brown huts visible amid bosky clumps, 
fulness and plenty all over the valley, and may count 
easily over a hundred villages. 

From Ukami we pass to Southern Udoe, and find a 
warlike, fine-looking people, with a far more intelligent 
cast of features, and a shade lighter than the Wakami 
and Wakwere — a people who are full of traditions of 
race, a people who have boldly rushed to war upon the 
slightest encroachment upon their territories, and who 
have bravely defended themselves against the Wase- 
guhha and Wakami, as well as against nomadic 
marauders from Uhumba. 

Udoe, in appearance, is amongst the most picturesque 
countries between the sea and Unyanvembe. Great 
cones shoot upward above the everlasting forests, 
tipped by the light fleecy clouds, through which the 
warm glowing sun darts its rays, bathing the whole in 
sunlight, which brings out of those globes of foliage 
which rise in tier after tier to the summits of the 
hills, colors which would mock the most ambitious 
painter's efforts at imitation. Udoe first evokes the 
traveller's love of natural beauty after leaving the sea : 
her roads lead him up along the sharp spines of hilly 
ridges, whence he may look down upon forest-clad 



GEOOBAPniCAL AND ETIINOOUAFHICAL REMARKS. 241 

slopes, declining on either side of him inio the depths 
of deep valleys, to rise up beyond into aspiring cones 
which kiss the sky, or into a bigli ridge with deep 
concentric folds, which almost tempt one to undergo 
much labor in exploring them, for the provoking air of 
mystery in which they seem to be enwrapped. Sup- 
posing a Byron saw some of these scenes in Udoe, he 
would be inclined to say, — 

" Moru dawns ; and with it stern Udoe's hills, 
Dark Uruguru's rocks, and Kira's peak, 
Robed half in mist, bedewed with various rills, 
Arrayed in many a dun and purple streak." 

And how true each word would be ! 

What a tale this tribe could relate of the slave- 
traders' deeds ! Attacked by the joint forces of the 
Waseguhha from the west and north, and the slave- 
traders of Whinde and Sa'adani from the east, the 
Wadoe have seen their wives and little ones carried 
inlo slavery a hundred times, and district after district 
taken from their country and attached to Useguhha. 
For the people of Useguhha were hired to attack their 
neighbours the Wadoe by the Whinde slave-traders, 
and w^ere also armed with muskets and supplied with 
ammunition by them to effect large and repeated cap- 
tures of Wadoe slaves. The people of this tribe, espe- 
cially women and children, so superior in physique and 
intelligence to the servile races by which they were 
surrounded, were eagerly sought for as coucubines and 
domestics by the lustfid Mohammedans. 

This tribe we first note to have distinctive tribal 
marks — by a line of punctures extending lengthwise 
on each side of the face, and a chipping of the two 
inner sides of the two middle teeth of the upper row 

The arms of this tribe are similar to the arms ot the 

R 



242 



HOW I FOUND LIVINGSIONE. 



VVakami and Wakwere, and consist of a bow aiie. 
arrows, a shield, a couple of light spears or assegais, a 
long knife, a handy Httle battleaxe, and a club with a 
large knob at one end of it, which latter is dexterously 
swung at the head of an enemy, inflicting a stunning 
and sometimes a fatal blow 




WEAPONS OF WAE 



Emerging from the forests of Mikeseh we enter the 
territory of the Waseguhha, or Wasegura,* as the 
Arabs wrongly call this country. Useguhha extends 
over two degrees in length, and its greatest breadth is 
ninety geographical miles. It has two main divisions, 
that of Southern Useguhha from Urnguru to the Wami 

* All the interior tribes know this tribe as the Wasegiihha, and 
none other. Burton adopts the Arabic C(^rrupted term Wasegura. 
Krapf, New, Wakefield and myself have adopted the native pronun- 
ciation, Waseguhha. 



QEOQRAPHICAL AND ETHNOGRAFEIGAL MEMAEK8. 243 

River, and Northern Useguhha, under the chieftain 
Moto, from the Wami River to Umagassi and Usum- 
bara. 

In the rise of this tribe into prominence and power, 
we have an example before us of the vicissitudes which 
the barbarian races have experienced during ages. 
Thirty years ago the Waseguhha were hmited to a 
narrow belt of country between the Wasambara and 
the Wadoe. The Wadoe were the supreme race east 
of the Usagara mountains, but the slave-traders, 
bringing ruin with them, betrayed them into the hands 
of organized banditti, consisting of renegade Wamrima, 
runaway slaves, offenders against the law of Zanzibar, 
convicts, and kidnappers^ which infested the forests 
between Usagara and the sea. These bands made war 
on some of the sub-tribes of the Wadoe, aud since the 
slaves of this tribe were in great demand, and were 
readily bought owing to their beauty of form, their fine 
physique aud general superiority, these raids against 
the tribe increased until in a few years the Wadoe were 
almost driven entirely awny from the fair valleys and 
beauteous country of the Ungerengeri. Foremost 
among these raiders was the notorious Kisabengo, 
whom I have already traced through his nefarious 
career, to the time of his establishing his stronghold, 
Simbamwenni, near the Ungerengeri. 

Mostly all the Waseguhha warriors are armed with 
muskets, and the Arabs supply them with enough 
ammunition, in return for which they attack Waruguru, 
Wadoe, and Wakwenni, to obtain slaves for the Arab 
market, and it is but five years since the Waseguhha 
organized a successful raid into the very heart of tlic 
Wasagara mountains, during which they desolated tV 
populated portions of the Makata plain, capturing ce:" 

R 2 



244 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

five hundred slaves. Formerly wars in this country 
were caused by blood-feuds between different chiefs; 
they are now encouraged by the slave-buyers of the 
Mrima, for the purpose of supplying these human 
chattels for the market of Zanzibar. 

The East African squadron has the power to crush 
this liornet's nest, and stop the inhuman traffic in 
slaves, so far as concerns Useguhha's ability to main- 
tain it. Let a steam launch with fifty men on board be 
detached for this service up the Wami river. By 
ascending the river as far as Kigongo's they would 
arrive within twenty miles of the town of Simba- 
mwenni, which could be marched in a night, and in 
the morning they could attack and burn the place, and 
break up this nucleus of the slave-trade in East Africa 
at once and for ever. The Waseguhha, aided by the 
slave-buyers, are the real scourge of this part of East 
Africa, and once their stronghold was taken and 
deistroyed they would be pow^erless for evil. 

The Waseguhha are about the most thorough be- 
lievers in witchcraft, yet the professors of this dark 
vvcience fare badly at their hands. It is a very common 
sight to see cinereous piles on the roadside, and the 
waving garments suspended to the branches of trees 
above them, which mark the fate of the unfortunate 
*' waganga " or medicine men. So long as their pre- 
dictions pro\'e correct, and have a happy culmination, 
these professors of " uchawi," magic arts, are regarded 
with favor by the people ; but if an unusual calamity 
overtakes a family, and they can swear that it is the 
result of the magician's art, a quorum of relentless inqui- 
.-itoi? is soon formed, and a like fate to that which over- 
took the '' witches '' in the dark days of New England 
L\ii3]j avraits him. Enough dead wood is soon found 



OEOQRAPIUCAL AND ETENOQEAFEICAL REMARKS. 2^5 

m their African forests, and the unhappy one perishen 
by fire, and as a warning to all false professors of the 
art, his loin-cloth is hung up to a tree above the spot 
where he met his doom. 

The Wasagara are mountaineers. The country whicls 
they inhabit is the mountain chain and its immediate 
base, extending from the Makata River to the desert of 
Marenga Mkah*, a breadth of seventy-five geographical 
miles, and a length of very nearly three degrees of 
latitude. 

The mountain range lies longitudinally in a north-by- 
east direction. The highest peak may probably have 
an elevation of about 6,000 feet above the sea. Mount 
Kibwe must be about 2,500 feet above the Mukondokwa 
Yalley near Kadetamare, and Kadetamare must be 
2,000 feet above the sea. But there are peaks in the 
Nguru group near Ugombo which I should estimate 
to be at least 1,500 feet higher than Mount Kibwe. 
To the north, as we approach the range from the 
Makata River, the mountains loom up more stupendous 
and lofty than those contiguous to the Pass of the 
Mukondokwa. On the tops and slopes of these moun- 
tains the vapours drifted liither by the monsoon winds 
shed their burden of water, and become rivers as the 
streams trickle down the slopes and unite in the valley.s 
at their eastern base. 

However much geographers may disagree with me, 
my opinion is that this chain of mountains is to East 
Africa what the Rocky Mountains are to Central North 
America. I regard it as the backbone of East Africa. 
Travellers place Kilima-Nj to in east longitude 37° 27'. 
and Mount Kenia in 37° 35' east, and I place Mr>unt 
Kibwe in longitude 36^ 50'; and Burton believes tXvM 
this same mountain chain of Usagara has " its culmi- 



246 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

nating apex in Njesa-Uliiyou.*' If the Rubwha Valley, 
through which the Riifiji issues into the sea from the 
highlands beyond, is only a gap in the Usagara range, 
why is not the Mukondokwa Yalley a gap ? Why 
may not the low plain of Uhumba, or Masai, be a gap? 
Why should the Ngaserai Hills, the mountain group of 
KiHma-Njaro, the snowy peak of Kenia, its southern 
neighbour Doeno Camwea, and its northern neighbour 
Msarara Mount, all heaving upward on the same 
line of longitude, not belong to this same Usagara 
Range ? 

The same effect observable in the plains to the east 
and the west of the Rocky Mountains is visible at 
either base of the Usagara Range. In Western North 
America it is well known that the Plain of Colorado, 
Wyoming, and a large portion of Nebraska, on the 
east, and fchat portion of Colorado and Utah at the 
western base of the Rocky Mountains, do not appear to 
possess that remarkable fertility observable near the 
Missouri River and eastward, or west of Utah. These 
denuded regions of America are from 500 to 800 miles 
in breadth on either side of the Rocky Mountains, and 
have a length of nearly 2,000 miles. But it must be re- 
membered that the Rocky Mountains have an average 
altitude of about 11,000 or 12,000 feet above the level 
of the sea. Such gigantic physical features are not to 
be seen in East Africa, I should estimate the average 
altitude of the more easterly portion of the Usagara 
Range to be about 3,500 feet above the sea level, while 
the most westerly should be estimated at 1,000 feet 
higher. The Makata Plain or Yalley, east of Usagara, 
has the same denuded appearance that our western 
plains have, and the region west of Usagara, embracing 
fhe ^v-jiolc of Marenga Mkali and Ugogo, may be com- 



GEOORAPIllCAL AND ETENOGBAFIJICAL REMARKS. 247 

pared, for the effect given by its denuded sterile 
aspect and saline incrustations, to Utah and Western 
Colorado. 

But in Uyanzi, west of Ugogo, the country heaves 
upward longitudinally into an altitude of about 1,000 
feet higher than the plain of Ugogo, and the conse- 
quence is that as they intercept the vapors borne 
westward by the monsoons, they appear more pro- 
ductive, second only in fertihty to the Yalley of the 
Mukondolnva. This sterile region, embracing the 
Marenga Mkali, though it has only a breadth of about 
100 to 150 geographical miles, has a length of about 
600 geographical miles, perhaps more. 

In Southern Usagara the people are most amiable ; 
but in the north, in those districts adjacent to the 
Wahumba, the people partake of the ferocious character 
of their fierce neighbours. Repeated attacks from the 
Waseguhha kidnappers, fi-ora the Wadirigo or Wahehe 
robbers on the south-west^ from the Wagogo on the 
west, and from the Wahumba on the north — have 
caused them to regard strangers with suspicion, but 
after a short acquaintance they prove to be a frank, 
amiable, and brave people. Indeed, they have good 
cause to be distrustful of the Arabs and the Wangwana 
of Zanzibar. Mbumi, Eastern Usagara, has been twice 
burnt down within a few years by the Arab and 
^^'aseguhha kidnappers ; Rehenneko has met the same 
fate, and it is not many years ago since Abdullah bin 
Nasib carried fire and sword from Misonghi to 
Mpwapwa. Kanyaparu, lord of the hills around 
Chunyo, or Kunyo, once cultivated one-fourth of the 
Marenga Mkali, but is now restricted to the hill-tops 
from fear of the Wadirigo marauders. 

In Eastern Usagara the broad distinctions which 



248 



EO W I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 



mark the pure Wasagara from the Waseguhha are not 
to be seen. We first find them among the villages of 
Mpwapwa. Here the long slender ringlets, ornamented 
with brass and copper pendicles, balls, with bright pice 
from Zanzibar, with a thin line of miniature beads 
running here and there among the ringlets, are first 
seen. A youthful Msagara, with a faint tinge of ochre 
embrowning the dull black hue of his face, with four or 
five bright copper coin ranged over his forehead, with 




YOUTHFUL WASAGARA. 



a tiny gourd's neck in each ear, distending his ear- 
lobes, with a thousand ringlets well greased and orna- 
mented with tiny bits of brass and copper, witli a head 
well thrown back, broad breast tlirown well forward, 
and muscular arms, and full-{)roportioned limbs, repre- 
sents the heaU'ideal of a handsome young African 
savage. 



OEOGRArniCAL AND ETHNOORAPHICAL REMARKS. 249 

The Wasagara, male and female, tattoo the forehead, 
bosom, and arms. Besides inserting the neck of a 
gourd in each ear — which carries his little store of '' tum- 
bac," or tobacco, and lime which he has obtained by 
burning land shells — he carries quite a number of most 
primitive ornaments around his neck, such as two or 
three snowy cowrie-shells, carved pieces of wood, or a 
small goat's horn, or some medicine consecrated by the 
medicine-man of the tribe, a fundo of white or red 
beads, or two or three pierced Sungomazzi egg-beads, 
or a string of copper coin, and sometimes small brass 
chains, like a Cheap Jack watch-chain. These things 
they have either made themselves or purchased from 
Arab traders for chickens or goats. The children all 
go nalvcd ; youths wear a goat or a sheep-skin ; grown 
men and women, blessed with progeny, wear domestic, 
or a loin-cloth of Kaniki, or a barsati, which is a 
favourite coloured cloth in Usagara ; chiefs wear caps 
such as are worn by the VYamrima Diwans, or the Arab 
tarboosh. 

Next on our line of march appear the Wagogo, a 
powerful race inhabiting the region west of Usagara 
to Uyanzi, which is about eighty miles in breadth, and 
about one hundred in length. The traveller has to 
exercise great prudence, discretion, and judgment in 
his dealings with them. Here he first hears the word 
"honga," after passing Simbamwenni, a word which 
signifies now, tribute, though it formerly meant a 
present to a friend. Since it is exacted from him with 
threats ihat if it is not paid, they will make war on 
him, its best interpretation would be, " force-extorted 
tribute" or toll. 

The following are three routes through Ugogo, from 
which the traveller may take his choice, and the sunj 



250 



HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 



of the tribute to be paid by a caravan of a hundred and 
fifty men. 



Northern. 


Tribute. 


Central. 


Tribute. 


Southern. 


Tribute 




Cloths. 




Clotlis. 




Cloths. 


Mvumi 


35 


Mvumi . 


35 


Kifukiiru 


25 


Matamburu . 


24 


Mubalata . 


25 


KisGwah. 


30 


Biliawana 


10 


Mafanya 


15 


Kanyeni. 


40 


Kididimo . 


26 


Kanyenyi . 


60 


Sanza 


15 


Pembera Pereli 


30 


Sanza . 


15 


Usekke . 


21 


Mizanza . 


22 


Kbonse . 


20 


Khonko . 


20 


Mukondoku . 


32 


Khonko 
Kiwyeh 


20 

27 


Kiwyeh . 


27 




179 


197 


178 



These cloths are only paid by the np-caravans ; hoes 
and ivory are generally taken by the return caravans. 

Naturally, if the traveller desires to be mulcted of a 
large sum, he will find the Wagogo ready to receive 
every shred of cloth he gives them. Mvumi will 
demand sixty cloths, and will wonder at his own mag- 
nanimity in asking for such a small number of cloths 
from a great Musungii (white man). The traveller, 
however, will be wise if he permits his chief men to 
deal with them, after enjoining tliem to be careful, and 
not to commit themselves too hastily to any number. 

They are, physically and intellectually, the best of the 
races between Unyamwezi and the sea. Their colour 
is a rich dark brown. There is something in their 
frontal aspect which is almost leonine. Their faces 
are broad and intelligent. Their eyes are large and 
round. Their noses are flat, and their mouths are very 
large ; but their lips, though tliick, are not so mon- 
strously thick as those our exaggerated ideal of a negro 
lias. For all this, though the Mgogo is a ferocious man, 
capable of proceeding to any length upon the slightest 



GEOORAPniCAL AND ETHNOOPAFHICAL REMARKS. 261 

temptation, he is an attractive figure to a white 
traveller. He is proud of his chief, proud of his 
country, sterile and unloveable tliough it be ; he is 
proud of himself, his prowess, his weapons, and his 
belongings; he is vain, terribly egotistic, a bully, and a 
tyrant, yet the Mgogo is capable of forming friend- 
ships, and of exerting himself for friendship's sake. 
One grand vice in his character, which places him in a 
hostile light to travellers, is his exceeding avarice, and 
greed for riches ; and if the traveller suffers by this, he 
is not likely to be amiably disposed towards him. 

This sturdy native, with his rich complexion, his 
lion front, menacing aspect, bullying nature, haughty, 
proud, overbearing^ and quarrelsome, is a mere child 
with a man who will devote himself to the study of his 
nature, and not offend his vanity. He is easily amused, 
as his curiosity is easily aroused. A traveller with an 
angular disposition is sure to quarrel with him ; but in 
presence of this rude child of nature, especially when 
he is so powerful, it is to his advantage and personal 
safety to soften these angles of his own nature. The 
Kigogo " Eob Roy " is on his native ground, and has a 
decided advantage over the white foreigner. He is 
not brave, but he is at least conscious of the traveller's 
weakness, and he is disposed to take advantage of it, 
but is prevented from committing an act because it is 
for his interest to keep the peace. Any violence to a 
traveller would close the road ; caravans would seek 
other ways, and the chiefs would be deprived of much 
of their revenue. 

The Mgogo warrior carries as his weapons a bow, 
and a sheaf of murderous-looking arrows, pointed, 
pronged, and barbed ; a couple of light, beautifully- 
made assegais, a broad sword-like spear, with a blade 



252 now J FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

over two feet long ; a battle-axe, and a rungu, or knob- 
club. He has also a shield, painted with designs in 
black and white, oval-shaped, sometimes of rhinoceros, 
or elephant, or bull-hide. From the time he was a 
toddling urchin he has been familiar with his weapons, 
and by the time he was fifteen years old he was an 
adept with them. 

He is armed for battle in a very short time. The 
messenger from the chief darts from village to village 
and blows his ox-horn, the signal for war. The warrior 
hears it, throws his hoe over his shoulder, enters his 
house_, and in a few seconds issues out again, arrayed 
in war paint, and full fighting costume. Feathers of 
the ostrich, or the eagle, or the vulture, nod above his 
head ; his long crimson robe streams behind him, his 
shield is on his left arm, his darting assegai in his left 
hand, and his ponderous man-cleaver — double-edged 
and pointed, heading a strong staff — is in his right 
hand ; jingling bells are tied around his ancles and 
knees ; ivory wristlets are on his arms, with which he 
sounds his approach. "With the plodding peasant's hoe 
he has dropped the peasant's garb, and is now the 
proud, vain, exultant w^arrior — bounding aloft like a 
gymnast, eagerly sniffing the battle-field. 

The strength and power of the Wagogo are derived 
from their numbers. Though caravans of Wagogo 
sometimes are found passing up and down along the 
Unyamwezi road, they are not so genej-ally employed 
as the Wanyamwezi in trade. Their villages are thus 
always full of warriors. Weak tribes, or remnants of 
tribes, are very glad to be admitted under their pro- 
tection. Individuals of other tribes, also, who have 
been obliged to exile themselves from their own tribes 
for some deed of violence, are often Ibund in the 



GEOGRAPHICAL AND ETllNOGRAFHICAL REMARKS. 253 

villages of tlie Wagogo. In the north, the Wahumba 
are very numerous; in the south may be found the 
Wahehe and Wakimbu, and in the east may be found 
many a family from Usagara. Wanyamwezi are also 
frequently found in this country. Indeed these latter 
people are like Scotchmen, they may be found almost 
everywhere throughout Central Africa, and have a 
knack of pushing themselves into prominence. 

As in Western Usagara the houses of the Wagogo 
are square, arranged around the four sides of an area — 
to which all the doors open. The roofs are all flat, 




BIRDS-EYE VIEW OF A TEMBE. 



on which are spread the grain, herbs, tobacco, and 
pumpkins. The back of each apartment is pierced with 
small holes for observation and for defence. 

The tenibe is a fragile affair as constructed inUgogo; 
it merely consists of a line of slender sticks daubed 
over with mud, with three or four strong poles planted 



254 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

at intervals to support the beams and rafters on which 
rests the flat clay roof. A musket-ball pierces the 
wattled walls of a Kigogo tembe through and through. 
In Uyanzi the tembe is a formidable affair, because of 
the abundance of fine trees, which are cut down and 
split into rails three or four inches thick. 

The tembe is divided into apartments, separated from 
each other by a wattled wall. Each apartment may 
contain a family of grown-up boys and girls, who form 
their beds on the floor out of dressed hides. The father 
of the family, only, has a kitanda, or fixed cot made of 
oxhide stretched over a frame_, or of the bark of the 
myombo tree. The floor is of tamped mud, and is 
exceedingly filthy, smelling strongly of every abomina- 
tion. In the corners, suspended to the rafters, are the 
fine airy dwellings of black spiders of very large size, 
and other monstrous insects. 

Rats, a peculiarly long-headed, dun-colored species, 
infest every tembe. Cows, goats, sheep, and cats are 
the only domestic animals permitted to dwell within 
the tembe. The dogs (the pariah breed) lodge outside 
with the cattle. 

The Wagogo believe in the existence of a god, or sky 
spirit, whom they call Mulungu. Their prayers are gene- 
rally directed to him, when their parents die. A Mgogo, 
after he has consigned his father to the grave, collects his 
fathers chattels together, his cloth, his ivory, his knife, 
his jembe (hoe), his bows and arrows, his spears, and his 
cattle, and kneels before them repeating a wish that Mu- 
lungu would increase his worldly wealth, that he would 
bless his labours, and make him successful in trade. 

The following conversation occurred between myself 
and a Mgogo trader : 

** Who do you suppose made your parents ?" 

" Why, Mulungu, white man 1" 4 



GEOGRAPHICAL AND ETHNOQRAPHICAL REMARKS. 255 

" Well, who made jou ?** 

'* If God made my father, God made me, didn't he?*' 
" That's very good. Where do you suppose your 
father is gone to, now that he is dead ?" 

" The dead die," said he, solemnly : " they are no 
more. The sultan dies, he becomes nothing — he is then 
no better than a dead dog, he is finished, bis words are 
finished — there are no words from him. It is true," he 
added, seeing a smile on my face^ " the sultan becomes 
nothing. He who says other v/ords is a liar. There !" 
" But then he is a very great man, is he not ?" 
" While he lives only — after death he goes into the 
pit, and there is no more to be said of him than of any 
other man." 

" Kow do you bury a Mgogo ?" 

*' His legs are tied together, his right arm to his 
body, and his left is put under his head. He is then 
rolled on his left side in the grave. His cloth he wore 
during his life is spread over him. We put the earth 
over him, and put thorn bushes over it to prevent the 
fizi (hyaena) from getting at him. A woman is put 
on her right side in a grave apart from the man." 
" What do you do with the sultan when he is dead ? " 
"We bury him too, of course, only he is buried in 
the middle of the village, and we build a house over 
it. Each time they kill an ox, they kill before his 
grave. When the old sultan dies, the new one calls foi 
an ox, and kills it before his grave, calling on Mulungu 
to witness that he is the rightful sultan. He then 
distributes the meat in his father's name.'' 

" Who succeeds the sultan. Is he the eldest son ?" 
" Yes, if he has a son ; if childless, the great chief 
aext to him in rank. The msagira is the next to 
the sultan, whose business it is to hear the cause of 



S56 HOW J FO UND LI VINO S TONE. 

complaint and convey it to the sultan, who, through the 
sultan, dispenses justice ; he receives the honga, carries 
it to the mtemi (sultan), places it before him, and 
when the sultan has taken what he wishes, the rest 
goes to the msagira. The chiefs are called manya-para; 
the msagira is the chief manya-para." 

"" How do the Wagogo marry ?" 

'* Oh, they buy their women." 
" What is a woman worth ?" 

" A very poor man can buy his wife from her father 
for a couple of goats." 

'' How much has the sultan got to pay?" 

" He has got to pay about one hundred goats, or so 
many cows, so many sheep and goats, to his bride's father. 
Of course he is a chief. The sultan would not bay a 
common woman. The father's consent is to be obtained, 
and the cattle have to be given up. It takes many 
days to finish the talk about it. All the family and 
friends of the bride have to talk about it before she 
leaves her lather's house." 

"Ill cases of murder, what do you do to the man 
who kills another ?" 

** The murderer has to pay fifty cows. If he is too 
poor to pay, the sultan gives his permission to the 
murdered man's friends or relatives to kill him. It 
they catch him, they tie him to a tree, and throw spears 
at him — one at a time first : they then spring on him, 
cut his head off, then his arms, and limbs, and scatter 
them about the countr3\" 

** How do you punish a thief?" 

*Mf he is found steahng, he is killed at once, and 
nothing is said about it. Is he not a thief?" 

'' But suppose you do not know who tho thief is ?" 

** If a man is brought before us accused of stealing, 



GEOGRAPHICAL AND ETHNOGBAPIITCAL ItrMARKS. 257 

we kill a chicken. If the entrails are white^ he is 
innocent — if yellow, he is guilty." 

*' Do you believe in witchcraft ?" 

'' Of course we do, and punish the man with death 
if he bewitches cattle, or stops rain." 

Next to Ugogo is Uyanzi, or the " Magunda Mkali " 
— the Hot Field. In former days before the Magunda 
Mkali was inhabited by emigrants from Ukimbu, carriers 
complained of the excessive heat and thirst they suffered 
during its transit. Water was scarce on the route they 
adopted, and the all-day marches were frequent : hence 
it was termed by the Wanyarawezi pagazis the *' Hot 
Field." 

Uyanzi, or Magunda Mkali, is at present verj 
populous. Along the northern route— that leading 
via Munieka — water is plentiful enough, villages are 
frequent, and travellers begin to perceive that the title 
is inappropriate. The people who inhabit the country 
are Wakimbu from the south. They are good agricul- 
turists, and are a most industrious race. They are some- 
thing like the Wasagara in appearance, but do not 
obtain a very high reputation for bravery. Their 
weapons consist of light spears, bows and arrows, and 
battle-axes. Their tembes are strongly made, showing 
considerable skill in the art of defensive constructions. 
Their bomas are so well made, that one would require 
cannon to effect an entrance, if the villages were at all 
defended. They are skilful also in constructing traps 
for elephants and buffaloes. A stray lion or leopard is 
sometimes caught by them. 

After marching through Magunda Mkali, we come 
to Unyamwezi, or the Land of the Moon ; but I shall 
leave a description of the people inhabiting this in- 
teresting district to a future chapter. 

8 




VIEW IN FRONT OF MY TEMBE. 



CHAPTER VIIL 



LIFE IN UNYANYEMBE. 

I RECEIVED a noiseless ovation as I walked side by 
side with the governor, Sayd bin Salim, towards 
his tembe in Kwil^uru, or the capital. The Wanyam- 
vvezi pagazis were out by hundreds, the warriors of 
Mkasiwa, the sultan, hovered around their chief, the 
children — naked dusky cherubs — were seen between the 
legs of their parents, even infants, a few months old, 
slung over their mothers' backs, all paid the tribute 
due to my color, with one grand concentrated stare. 
The only persons who talked with me were the Arabs, 
and aged Mkasiwa, ruler of Unyanyembe. 

Sayd bin Salim's house was at the north-western 
corner of the inclosure, a stockaded boma of Kwikuru. 



k 



" Heh-heh-h ! This is news ;" — stroking his beard. 

8 2 



JT' : ShsO. 



R EFE R EK C E 

1 KwSvnt Capital of UnyaTcvenibe., Suttajr^ PdJojce in. -die, centre' 

ShsOih, Hn Nomjh 
$ yiouif v'Tiae I,i>ingstorie & Stanley Ixfed, m, Kwihara, 
-i .ibcbJldlb bm, Jixmah 
ScdcL bin. Earned 
(I Thani HMxiruTi 

7 Kjftra., a slave, irajier 

8 Cfmye-yarJj ',vhere JoTut W. Shcav was Txuried' 

9 Borxua. of SdUyri bin, BasfdH in, Mararo 
Thani am- AhcbilLaK 

11 SuJUun bin, AH 

22 iSyy Tmv Amer's tsnihe. now AhduUdh. Tmx Muasorhci 

13 Buriaris Tumse, rww Massaiid, Irin, AbduXldlv 



14 Spekei Hovse, - jr Musa. Mzuris 

15 Jmrojn, iin. Muss arid caIl£X"Two 

16 Mofanna, tin, SuZc^mwx 

17 Mixaids On. AbduUnlv 

18 ScMm, Viit Sasfrt 

19 Sa}'d, tnn. SaJtim: 

20 Sc^H bin, EcOtib 

21 SwigvaiL, Hie, .Bhxdcsrmih 

22 llomed, Mnviwa, 

23 MiiaL bin, S. 
4- War^amwezi, 

■6 d: _ D? 




June, 1871.] LIFE IN UN7ANYEMBE. 259 

We had tea raade in a silver tea-pot, and a bonntiful 
supply of " dampers " were smoking under a silver 
cover ; and to this repast I was invited. When a man 
has walked eight miles or so without any breakfast, 
and a hot tropical sun has been shining on him for three 
or four hours, he is apt to do justice to a meal, especially 
if his appetite is healthy. I think I astonished the 
governor by the dexterous way in which I managed 
to consume eleven cups of his aromatic concoction of an 
Assam herb, and the easy effortless style with which I 
demolished his high tower of " slap-jacks," that but a 
minute or so smoked hotly under their silver cover. 

For the meal, I thanked the Sheikh, as only an earnest 
and sincerely hungry man, now satisfied, could thank 
him. Even if I had not spoken, my gratified looks 
had well informed him, under what obligations I had 
been laid to him. 

Out came my pipe and tobacco-pouch. 

*' My friendly Sheikh, wilt thou smoke ?" 

** No, thanks ! Arabs never smoke." 

** Oh, if you don't, perhaps you would not object to 
me smoking, in order to assist digestion ?" 

*< Nghema — good — go on, master." Then began the 
questions, the gossipy, curious, serious, light questions : 

" How came the master ?" 

" By the Mpwapwa road." 

" It is good. Was the Makata bad ?" 

"Very bad." 

"What news from Zanzibar?" 

" Good ; Syed Toorkee has possession of Muscat^ an<l 
Azim bin Ghis was slain in the streets. 

"Is this true, Wallahi ?" (by God.) 

"It is true." 

" Heh-heh-h ! This is news ;" — stroking his beard. 

8 2 



260 now / FOUND lAV J NORTON E. 

"Have you heard, master, of Suleiman bin All ?'* 
"Yes, tlie Bombay governor sent him to Zanzibar, in 
a man-of-war, and Suleiman bin Ali now lies in the 
gurayza (fort)." 

*'• Heh, that is very good." 

" Did you have to pay much tribute to the AYagogo ?" 

"Eight times; Hamed Kimiani wished me to go by 

Kiwyeh, but I declined, and struck through the forest 

to Munieka. Hamed and Thani thought it better to 

follow me, than brave Kiwyeh hy themselves." 

"Where is that Hajji Abdullah that came here, and 

Spiki r 

^^ Hajji Abdullah! What Hajji Abdullah? Ah! 
Sheikh Burton we call him. Oh, he is a great man 
now ; a balyuz, at El Scham." 

" Heh-heh ; balyuz ! Heh, at El Scham ! Is not that 
near Betlem el Kudis ?" 

'^Yes, about four days. Spiki is dead. He shot him- 
self by accident." 

"Ah, ah, Wallah (by God), but this is bad news, 
Spiki dead ? Mash- Allah ! Ough, he was a good man — 
a good man ! Dead 1" 

^^But where is this Kazeh, Sheikh Sayd ?" 

*'Kazeh? Kazeh? I never heard the name before." 

'* But you were with Burton, and Speke, and the 
other man. Grant, at Kazeh ; you lived there several 
months, when you were all stopping in Unyanyembe; 
it must be close here somewhere. Where did Hajji 
Abdullah and Spiki live when they were in Unyan- 
yembe ? Was it not in Musa Mzuri's house ?" 

'^ That was in Tabora " 

" Well, then, where is Kazeh ? I have never seen the 
man yet who could tell me where that place is, and yet 
the three white men have that word down, as the 



June, 1871.] LIFE IN UNYANYEMBE. 261 

uame of the place they lived at when you were with 
them. You must know where it is." 

" Wallahi, bana, I never heard the name ; but stop, 
Kazeh, in Kinyamwezi, means 'kingdom.' Perhaps they 
gave that name to the place they stopped at. But then, 
I used to call the first house Sny bin Amer's house, 
and Speke and Grant lived at Musa Mzuri's house, bui 
both houses, as well as all the rest, are in Tabora." 

"Thank you, Sheikh. I should like to go and look 
after my people ; they must all be wanting food." 

'' I shall go with you to show you your house. The 
tembe is in Kwihara, only an hour s walk from Tabora." 

On leaving Kwikuru we crossed a low ridge, and 
soon saw Kwihara lying between two low ranges of 
hills, the northernmost of which was terminated west> 
ward by the round fortress-like hill of Zimbili. There 
was a cold glare of intense sunshine over the valley, 
probably the effect of an universal bleakness or an 
autumnal ripeness of the grass, unrelieved by anj 
depth of color to vary the universal sameness. The 
hills vvere bleached, or seemed to be, under that dazzling 
sunshine, and clearest atmosphere. The corn had 
long been cut, and there lay the stubble, and fields, — a 
browny-white expanse ; the houses were of mud, and 
their flat roofs were of mud, and the mud was of a 
hrowny-whiteness ; the huts were thatched, and the 
stockades around them of barked timber, and these were 
of a browny whiteness. The cold, fierce, sickly wind 
from the mountains of Usagara sent a deadly chill to 
our very marrows, yet the intense sunshiny glare never 
changed, a black cow or two, or a tall tree here and 
there, caught the eye for a moment, but they never 
made one forget that the first impression of Kwihara 
was as of a picture without color, or of food without 



262 EOW 2 FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

taste ; and if one looked up, there was a sky of a pale 
blue, spotless, and of an awful serenity. 

As I approached the tembe of Sayd bin Salim, Sheikh 
bin Nasib and other great Arabs joined us. Before the 
great door of the tembe the men had stacked ^he bales, 
and piled the boxes, and were using their tongues at a 
furious rate, relating to the chiefs and soldiers of the 
first, second, and fourth caravans, the many events 
which had befallen them, and which seemed to them 
the only things worth relating. Outside of their own 
limited circles they evidently cared for nothing. Then 
the several chiefs of the other caravans had in turn to 
relate their experiences of the road ; and the noise of 
tongues was loud and furious. But as we approached, all 
this loud-sounding gabble ceased, and my caravan chiefs 
and guides rushed to me to hail me as " master," and to 
salute me as tlieir friend. One fellow, faithful Baruti, 
tlirew himself at my feet, the others fired their guns and 
acted like madmen suddenly become frenzied, and a 
general cry of '* welcome " was heard on all sides. 

" Walk in, master, this is your house, now ; here are 
your men's quarters; here you will receive the great 
Arabs, here is the cook-house, here is the store-house ; 
here is the prison for the refractory; here are your white 
man's apartments ; and these are your own : see, here is 
the bedroom, here is the gun-room, bath-room, <kc. ;" so 
Sheikh Sayd talked, as he showed me the several places. 

On my honor, it was a most comfortable place, this, 
in Central Africa. One could almost wax poetic, but 
we will keep such ambitious ideas for a future day. 
Just now, however, we must have the goods stored, and 
the little army of carriers paid off and disbanded. 

Bombay was ordered to unlock the strong store- 
roo"i, to pile the bales in regular tiers, the beads in 



Jdnb, 1871.] LIFE IN UNYANYEMBE. 263 

rov7s one aDove another, and the wire in a separate 
place. The boats, canvas, &c., were to be placed high 
above reach of white ants, and the boxes of ammunition 
and powder kegs were to be stored in the gun-room, 
out of reach of danger. Then a bale of cloth was 
opened, and each carrier was rewarded according to 
his merits, that each of them might proceed home to 
his friends and neighbours, and tell them how much 
better the white man behaved, tlian the Arabs. 

The reports of the leaders of the first, second, and 
fourth caravans were then received, their separate 
stores inspected, and the details and events of their 
marches heard. The first caravan had been engaged in 
a war at Kirurumo, and had come out of the fight 
successful, and had reached Unyanyembe without loss 
of anything. The second had shot a thief in the 
forest between Pembera Pereli and Kididimo ; the 
fourth had lost a bale in the jungle of Marenga Mkali, 
and the porter who carried it had received a " very 
sore head" from a knob stick wielded by one of the 
thieves, who prowl about the jungle near the frontier 
of Ugogo. I was delighted to find that their mis- 
fortunes were no more, and each leader was then and 
there rewarded with one handsome cloth, and five doti 
of Merikani. 

Just as I began to feel hungry again, came several 
slaves in succession, bearing trays full of good things 
from the Arabs ; first an enormous dish of rice, with a 
bowlful of curried chicken, another with a dozen huge 
wheaten cakes, another with a plateful of smoking hot 
crullers, another with papaws^ another with pome- 
granates and lemons ; after these came men driving 
five fat hump-backed oxen, eight sheep, and ten goati:^, 
aud another man came with a dozen chickens, and a 



2M now I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

dozen fresh eggs. This was real, practical, noclb 
courtesy, munificent hospitality, which quite took zi^y 
gratitude by storm. 

My people, now reduced to twenty-five, were a,t; 
delighted at the prodigal plenitude visible on my tables 
and in my yard, as I was myself. And, as I saw their 
eyes light up at the unctuous anticipations presented to 
tbem by their riotous fancies, I ordered a bullock to be 
slaughtered and distributed. 

The second day of the arrival of the " New York 
Herald Expedition " in tlie country wbich I now looked 
upon as classic ground, since Capts. Burton, Speke, and 
Grant years ago had visited it, and described it, came 
the Arab magnates from Tabora to congratulate me. 

Tabora"* is the principal Arab settlement in Central 
Africa. It contains over a thousand huts and tcmbes, 
and one may safely estimate the population, Arabs, 
Wangwana, and natives, at fixe thousand people. 
Between Tabora and the next settlement, Kwihara, 
rise two rugged hill ridges, separated from each other 
by a low saddle, over the top of which Tabora is always 
visible from Kwihara. 

They were a fine, handsome body of men, these 
Arabs. They mostly hailed from Oman ; others were 
Wasawahili ; and each of my visitors had quite a re- 
tinue with him. At Tabora they live quite luxuriously. 
The plain on which the settlement is situated is exceed- 
ingly fertile, though naked of trees ; the rich pasturage 
it furnishes permits them to keep hirge herds of cattle 
and goats, from which they have an ample supply of 
milk, cream, butter, and ghee. Rice is grown every- 
where, sweet potatoes, yams, muhogo, holcus sojghum, 
maize, or Indian corn, sesame, millet, field peas, or 
''^ Tlierc is no such recognised place as Kazeh. 



June, 1871.] LIFE IN UNYANYEMBE. 265 

vetches, called choroko, are cheap, and always pro- 
curable. Around their tembes the Arabs cultivate a 
little wheat for their own purposes, and have planted 
orange, lemon, papaw, and mangoes, which thrive here 
fairly well. Onions and garlic, chilies, cucumbers, 
tomatoes, and binijalls, may be procured by the white 
visitor from the more important Aiabs, who are un- 
doubted epicureans in their way. Their slaves convey 
to them from the coast, once a year at least, their stores 
of tea, coffee, sugar, spices, jellies, curries, wine, brandy, 
biscuits, sardines, salmon, and such fine cloths and 
articles as they require for their own personal use. 
Almo-^t every Arab of any eminence is able to show a 
wealth of Persi;ai carpets, and most luxurious bedding, 
complete tea and coffee services, and magnificently 
carved dishes of tinned copper and lirass lavers. 
Several oi them sport gold watches and chains, mostly 
all a watch and chain of some kind. And, as in Persia, 
Afghanistan, and Turkey, the harems form an essential 
feature of every Arab's household, the sensualism of the 
Mohammedans is as prominent here as in the Orient. 
Each Arab, according to his means, maintains a troop of 
concubines, for the [)ruriency of his animal nature must 
be gratified litre as in the " City of Victory." The eye 
that at first despised the unclassic face of the black woman 
of Africa soon loses its regard for fine lines and mellow 
pale color ; it finds itself ere long lingering wantonly 
over the inharmonious and heavy curves of a negroid 
form, and looking lovingly on the broad, unintellectual 
face, and into jet eyes that never flash with the dazzling 
lovelight that makes poor humanity beautiful. 

The Arabs who now stood before the front door 
of my teniL)e were the donors of the good things 
received the day before. As in duty bound, of coui'se 



266 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

I greeted Sheikh Sayd first, then Sheikh bin Nasib, 
his Highness of Zanzibar's consul at Karagwa^ then I 
greeted the noblest Trojan amongst the Arab popula- 
tion, noblest in bearing, noblest in courage and manly 
worth — Sheikh Khamis bin Abdullah ; then young 
Amram bin Mussoud, who is now making war on the 
king of Urori and his fractious people ; then handsome, 
courageous Soud, the son of Sayd bin Majid ; then 
dandified Thani bin Abdullah ; then Mussoud bin 
Abdullah, and his cousin Abdullah bin Mussoud, who 
own the houses where formerly lived Burtoii and 
Speke ; then old Suliman Dowa, Sayd bin Sayf, and 
the old Hetman of Tabora — Sheikh Sultan bin Ali. 

As the visit of these magnates, under whose loving 
protection white travellers must needs submit them- 
selves, was only a formal one, such as Arab etiquette, 
ever of the stateliest and truest, impelled them to, it 
is unnecessary to relate the discourse on my health, and 
their wealth, my thanks, and their professions of loyalty, 
and attachment to me. After having expended our 
mutual stock of congratulations and nonsense, they 
departed, having stated their wish that I should visit 
them at Tabora and partake of a feast which they were 
about to prepare for me. 

Three days afterwards I sallied out of my tenibe, es- 
corted by eighteen bravely dressed men of my escort, to 
pay Tabora a visit. On surmounting the saddle over 
which the road from the valley of Kwihara leads to Ta- 
bora, the plain on which the Arab settlement is situated, 
lay before us, one expanse of dun pasture land, stretch- 
ing from the base of the hill on our left as far as the banks 
of the northern Gombe, which a few miles beyond Tabora 
heave into purple-coloured hills and blue cones. 

Within three quarters of an hour we were seated oi) 



JuxXB, 1871.] LIFE IN UNYANYEMBE. 267 

the mud veranda of the tembe of Sultan bin Ali, who, 
because of his age, his wealth, and position — being 
a colonel in Syed Burghash's unlovely army — is looked 
upon by his countrymen, high and low, as referee and 
counsellor. His boma or enclosure contains quite a 
village of hive-shaped huts and square tembes. From 
here, after being presented with a cup of Mocha coffee, 
and some sherbet, we directed our steps towards 
Khamis bin Abdullah's house, who had, in anticipation 
of my coming, prepared a feast to which he had invited 
his friends and neighbours. The group of stately Arabs 
in their long white dresses, and jaunty cajos, also of 
a snowy white, who stood ready to welcome me to 
Tabora, produced quite an effect on my mind. I was 
in time for a council of war they were holding — and I 
was requested to attend — Selim, my Arab interpreter, 
forming one of the number. 

Khamis bin Abdullah, a bold and brave man, ever 
ready to stand up for the privileges of the Arabs, and 
their rights to pass through any countries for legitimate 
trade, is the man who, in Speke's ' Journal of the 
Discovery of the Source of the Nile,' is reported to 
have shot Maula, an old cliief who sided with Manwa 
Sera during the wars of 1860 ; and who subsequently 
after chasing his relentless enemy for five years through 
Ugogo and Unyamwezi as far as Ukonongo, had the 
satisfaction of beheading him, was now urging the 
Arabs to assert their rights against a chief called 
Mirambo of Uyoweh, in a crisis which was advancing. 

This Mirambo of Uyoweh, it seems, had, for the last 
few years, been in a state of chronic discontent with the 
policies of the neighbouring chiefs. Foimerly a pagazi 
for an Arab, he had now assumed regal power, with the 
usual knack of unconscionable rascals who care not by 



268 BOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

what means they step into power. When the chief of 
Uyoweli died, Mirambo, who was head of a gang 
of robbers infesting the forests of Wilyankuru, suddenly 
entercd Uyoweh, and constituted himself loi-J para- 
mount by force. Some feats of enterprise, which lie 
performed to the enrichment of all those who recognised 
his authority, established him firmly in his position. 
This was but a beginning ; he carried war through Ugara 
to Ukonongo, through Usagozi to tlie borders of Uvinza, 
and after destroying the populations over three degrees 
of hititude, he conceived a grievance against Mkasiwa, 
and against the Arabs, because they would not sustain 
liim in his ambitious projects against their ally and 
friend, with whom they were living in peace. 

The first outrage which this audacious man committed 
against the Arabs was the halting of an Ujiji-bound 
caravan, and the demand for five kogs of gunpowder, 
five guns, and five bales of cloth. This extraordinary 
demand, after expending more than a day in fierce 
controversy, was paid; but the Arabs, if they were 
surprised at the exorbitant black-mail demanded of 
them, were more than ever surprised when they were 
told to return the way they came ; and that no Arab 
caravan should pass through his country to Ujiji except 
over his dead body. 

On the return of the unfortunate Arabs to Unyan- 
yembe, they reported the facts to Sheikh Sayd bin 
Salim, the governor of the Arab colony. Tliis old 
man being averse to war, of course tried every means 
to induce Mirambo as of old to be satisfied with 
presents, but Mirambo this time was obdurate, and 
Bternly determined on war unless the Arabs aided him 
in the warfare he was about to wage against old 
Mkasiwa, sultan of the Wanjamwezi of Unyanyembe. 



June 1871.] LIFE IN UNYANYEMBE. 269 

" Tliis is tlie status of affairs," said Khamis bin Ab- 
dullah. " Mirambo says : that for years he has been 
engaged in war against the neighbouring Washensi 
and has come out of it victorious, he says this is a great 
year with him ; that he is going to fight the Arabs, and 
the Wanyamwezi of Unyanyembe, and that he shall 
not stop until every Arab is driven from Unyanyembe, 
and he rules over this country in place of Mkasiwa. 
Children of Oman, shall it be so ? Speak, Salim, son 
of Sayf, shall we go to meet this Mshensi (pagan) or 
shall we return to our island ?" 

A murmur of approbation followed the speech of 
Khamis bin Abdullah, the majority of those present 
being young men eager to punish the audacious 
Mirambo. Salim, the son of Sayf, an old patriarch, 
slow of speech, tried to appease the passions of the 
young men^ scions of the aristocracy of Muscat and 
Muttrah, and Bedaweens of the Desert, but Khamis's 
bold words had made too deep an impression on their 
minds. 

Soud, the handsome Arab whom I have noticed 
already as the son of Sayd the son of Majid, spoke : 
" My father used to tell me that he remembered the days 
when the Arabs could go through the country from 
Bagamoyo to Ujiji, and from Kilwa to Lunda, and 
from Usenga to Uganda armed with canes. Those 
days are gone by. We have stood the insolence of the 
Wagogo long enough. Swaruru of Usui just takes 
from us whatever he wants ; and now, here is Mirambo, 
who says, after taking more than five bales of cloth 
as tribute from one man, that no Arab caravan shall 
go to Ujiji, but over his body. Are we prepared to 
give up the ivory of Ujiji, of Urundi, of Karagwah, 
of Uganda, because of this one man ? I say war — wai 



270 EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

until we have got his beard under our feet — war until 
the whole of Uyoweh and Wilyankuru is destroyed — war 
until we can again travel through any part of the country 
with only our walking canes in our hands !" 

The universal assent that followed Soud's speech 
proved beyond a doubt that we were about to have a 
war. I thought of Livingstone. What if he were 
marching to Unyanyembe directly into the war country ? 

Having found from the Arabs that they intended 
to finish the war quickly — at most within fifteen 
days, as Uyoweh was only four marches distant — I 
volunteered to accompany them, take my loaded cara- 
van with me as far as Mfuto, and there leave it in 
charge of a few guards, and with the rest march on 
with the Arab army. And my hope was, that it might 
be possible, after the defeat of Mirambo, and his forest 
banditti — the Ruga-Ruga — to take my Expedition direct 
to Ujiji by the road now closed. The Arabs were 
sanguine of victory, and I partook of their enthusiasm. 

The council of war broke up. A great dishful of 
rice and curry, in which almonds, citron, raisins, and 
currants were plentifully mixed, was brought in, and it 
was wonderful how soon we forgot our warlike fervor 
after our attention had been drawn to this royal dish. 
I, of course, not being a Mohammedan, had a dish of 
my own, of a similar composition, strengthened by 
platters containing roast chicken, and kabobs, crullers, 
cakes, sweetbread, fruit, glasses of sherbet and lemonade, 
dishes of gum-drops and Muscat sweetmeats, dry raisins, 
prunes, and nuts. Certainly Khamis bin Abdullah 
proved to me that if he had a warlike soul in him, he 
could also attend to the cultivated tastes acquired 
under the shade of the mangoes on his father s estates in 
Zanzibar — the island. 



/UNE, 1871.] LIFE IN UNYANYEMBE. 271 

After gorging ourselves on these unccmmon dainties, 
some of the chief Arabs escorted me to other tembep 
of Tabora. When we went to visit Mussoiid bin 
Abdullah, he showed me the very ground where 
Burton and Speke's house stood — now pulled down 
and replaced by his office — Sny bin Amer's house was 
also torn down, and the fashionable tembe of Unyan- 
yembe, now in vogue, built over it, — finely-carved 
rafters — huge carved doors, brass knockers, and lofty 
airy rooms, a house built for defence and comfort. 

Tlie finest house in Unyanyembe belongs to Amram 
bin Mussoud, who paid sixty frasilah of ivory — over 
$3,000 — for it. Yery fair houses can be purchased for 
fiom twenty to thirty frasilah of ivory. Amram's 
liouse is called the "Two Seas" — '' Baherein." It is 
one hundred feet in length_, and twenty feet high, with 
walls four feet thick, neatly plastered over with mud 
mortar. The great door is a marvel of carving-work 
for Unyanyembe artisans. Each rafter within is also 
carved with fine designs. Before the front of the house 
is a young plantation of pomegranate trees, which 
flourish here as if they were indigenous to the soil. A 
shadoof, such as may be seen on the Nile, serves to 
draw water to irrigate the gardens. 

Towards evening we walked back to our own finely 
situated tembe in Kwihara, well satisfied with what we 
had seen at Tabora. My men drove a couple of oxen, 
and carried three sacks of native rice — a most superior 
kind — the day's presents of hospitality from Khamis bin 
Abdullah. 

In Unyanyembe I found the Livingstone caravan, 
which readers must remember I said started off in a 
fright upon the mere rumour that Kirk, the English 
" balyuz," was coming. As all the caravans were now 



272 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

halted at Unyanyembe because of the now approaching 
war, I suggested to Sayd bin Salim, that it were bet+er 
that the men of the Livingstone caravan should live 
with mine in my tembe, that I might watch over the 
white man's goods. Of course since Dr. Kirk had uevei 
asked me or authorized me to take charge of Living- 
stone's goods, I could not interfere with the governor 
or the caravan. Fortunately Sayd bin Sahm agreed 
with me, and the men and goods were at once brought 
to my tembe. 

One day Asmani, who was now chief of Livingstone's 
caravan, the other having died of small-pox, two or 
three days before, brought out a tent to the veranda 
where I was sitting writing, and shewed me a packel 
of letters, which to my surprise was marked : — 

" To Dr. Livingstone, 
" Ujiji, 
"November 1st, 1870. 

" Registered letters." 

Here was the best evidence in the world that the 
letters were sealed up in that packet on the date men- 
tioned on the bag. From November 1st, 1870, to 
February 10th, 1871, just one hundred days, at Baga- 
moyo ! A miserable small caravan of thirty-three men 
halting one hundred days at Bagamoyo, only twenty-five 
r lies by water from Zanzibar ! Poor Livingstone! Who 
knows but he may be suffering for want of these Yerj 
supplies that have been detained so long wnthin easy 
reach of the British Consulate, and will be detained 
here in Unyanyembe, now, God knows how long ! 
The caravan arrived in Unyanyembe sometime about 
the middle of May. About the latter part of May the 



.IULY,187L] LIFE IN UNYANYEMBE. 273 

first disturbances took place. Had this caravan arrived 
}iere in the middle of March, or even the middle of 
April, they might have travelled on to Ujiji without 
trouble. 

I asked Asmani : 

*' When did you see Dr Kirk last ?" 
" About five or six weeks before the Eamadan.'* 
" When did you get this packet of letters ?" 
"The day before I left Zanzibar for Bagamoyo/' 
^' Did you not see him at Bagamoyo, when he came to 
shoot near the Kingani ? " 

" No, we heard he was coming, and we left. We 
heard he had been there. Two days from Kikoka we 
stopped a week, to wait for four men of the escorting 
party who had not yet started from Bagamoyo. 

On the 7th of July, about 2 p.m., I was sitting on the 
burzani as usual ; I felt listless and languid, and a drowsi- 
ness came over me ; I did not fall asleep, but the power 
of my limbs seemed to fail me. Yet the brain was busy ; 
all my life seemed passing in review before me ; when 
these retrospective scenes became serious, I looked 
serious ; when they were sorrowful, I wept hysterically ; 
when they were joyous, I laughed loudly. Rem.iniscences 
of yet a young life's battles and hard struggles came 
surging into the mind in quick succession ; events of 
boyhood, of youth, and manhood ; perils, travels, scenes, 
joys, and sorrows ; loves and hates ; friendships and 
indifferences. My mind followed the various and rapid 
transition of my life's passages ; it drew the lengthy, 
erratic, sinuous lines of travel my footsteps had passed 
over. If 1 had drawn them on the sandy floor, what 
enigmatical problems they had been to those around 
me, and wliat plain, readable, intelligent histories they 
had been to me ! 

T 



2-74 ffOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

Tbe loveliest feature of all to me was the form of a 
noble, and true man, who called me son. Of my life in 
the great pine forests of Arkansas, and in Missouri, I 
retained the most vivid impressions. The dreaming 
days I passed under the sighing pines on the Ouachita's 
shores; the new clearing, the block-house, our faithful 
black servant, the forest deer, and the exuberant life I led, 
were all well remembered. And I remembered how 
one day, after we had come to live near the Mississippi, 
I floated down, down, hundreds of miles, with a wild 
fraternity of knurly giants, the boatmen of the Missis- 
sippi, and how a dear old man welcomed me back, as \i 
from the grave. 1 remembered also my travels on foot 
through sunny Spaiu, and France, with numberless 
adventures in Asia Minor, among Kurdish nomads. 1 
remembered the battle fields of America and the stormy 
scenes of rampant war. I remembered gold mines, and 
broad prairies, Indian councils, and much experience in 
the new western lands. I remembered the shock it 
gave nie to hear after my return from a barbarous 
country of the calamity that had overtaken the fond 
man whom I called fatber, and the hot fitful life that 
followed it. Stop ! ****** Dear me ; is it the 
21st of July ? Yes, Shaw informed me that it was the 
21st of July after I recovered i'rom my terrible attack of 
fever ; the true date was the 14tli of July, but I was 
not aware that. I had jumped a week, until I met 
Dr. Livingstone. We two together examined the 
* Nautical Almanack,' which I brought with me. We 
found that the Doctor was three v^'eek.s out of hip 
reckoning, and to my great surprise I was also one 
week out, or one week ahead of tlie actual date. The 
mistake was made by my being informed that I had 
been two weeks sick, and as the day I recovered my 



July, 1871.] LIFE IN UNYANYEMBK. 276 

senses was Friday, and Shaw and the people were 
morally sure that I was in bed two weeks, I dated it on 
my Diary the 21st of July. That Sliaw liad lost his 
reckoning also can easily be accounted for, for the 
fever was rapidly destroying his memory, and indeed 
his reason. Selim had j^ttended me, according to 
directions plainly written, which he had been ordered 
to follow in case of :,ucli a crisis, I had diligently 
taught him, until he knew every medicine in the chest, 
and its uses. He told me he had fed me with tea and 
a little brandy in it; Shaw had thi'ee or four times fed 
me with sago gruel. However, on the tenth day after 
the first of my illness, I was in excellent trim again, 
only, however, to see and attend to Shaw, who was in 
turn taken sick. By the 22nd July Shaw was re- 
covered, then Selim was prostrated, and groaned in 
his delirium for four days, but by the 28th we were all 
recovered, and were beginning to brighten up at the 
prospect of a diversion in the shape of a march upon 
Mirambo's stronghold. 

The morning of the 29th I had fifty men loaded with 
bales, beads, and wire, for Ujiji. When they were 
mustered for the march outside the tenibe, the only 
man absent was Bombay. While mien were sent to 
search for him, others departed to get one more look, 
and one more embrace with their black Delilahs. Bom- 
bay was found sometime about 2 p.m., his face faithfully 
depicting the contending passions under which he was 
labouring— sorrow at parting from the fleshpots of 
Unyanyembe — regret at parting from his Dulcinea of 
Tabora — to be bereft of all enjoyment now, nothing 
but marches — hard, long marches — to go to the war — 
to be killed, perhaps. Oh ! Inspired by such feelings, 
no wonder Bombay was inclined to be pugnacious 

T 2 



876 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

when I ordered him to his place, and I was in a 
shocking bad temper for having been kept waiting 
from 8 A.M. to 2 P.M. for him. There was simply a 
word and a savage look, and my cane was flying 
around Bombay's shoulders, as if he were to be anni- 
hilated. I fancy that tlie eager fury of my onslaught 
broke his stubbornness more than anything else ; for 
before I had struck him a dozen times he was crying 
for "pardon.'* At that word I ceased belaboring him, 
for this was the first time he had ever uttered that word. 
Bombay was conquered at last. 

** March !" and the guide led oflP, followed in solemn 
order by forty-nine of his fellows, every man carrying a 
Heavy load of African monies, besides his gun, hatchet, 
and stock of ammunition, and his ugali-pot. We pre- 
sented quite an imposing sight while thus marching on 
in silence and order, with our flags flying, and the red 
blanket robes of the men streaming behind them as the 
furious north-easter blew right on our flank. 

The men seemed to feel they were worth seeing, for 
I noticed that several assumed a more martial tread as 
they felt their royal Joho cloth tugging at their necks, as 
it was swept streaming behind by the wind. Maganga, 
a tall Mnyamwezi, stalked along like a very Golinli 
about to give battle alone, to Mirambo and his thousand 
warriors. Frisky Khamisi paced on under his load, 
imitating a lion ; and there was the rude jester — the 
incorrigible Ulimengo — with a stealthy pace like a cat. 
But their silence could not last long. Their vanity was 
so mach gratified, the red cloaks danced so incessantly 
before their eyes, that it would have been a wonder if 
they conld have maintained such ^eiious gravity or dis- 
content one half hour longer. 

Ulimengo was the first who broke it. He had con- 



July, 1871.] LIFE JN UNYANYEjMJBB, 277 

stituted himself the kirangozi or guide, and was th-e 
standard-bearer, bearing the American flag, which tlie 
men thought would certainly strike terror into the hearts 
of the enemy. Growing confident first, then valorous, 
then exultant, he suddenly faced the army he was 
leading, and shouted 

*' Hoy ! Hoy ! 

Chorus, — Hoy ! Hoy 1 

Hoy ! Hoy ] 

Chorus, — Hoy ! Hoy ! 

Hoy! Hoy! 

Chorus. — Hoy ! Hoy ! 

Where are ye going? 
Chorum, — Going to war. 

Against whom? 
Chorus. — Against Mirambo. 

Who is your master ? 
Chorus. — The White Man. 
Ough ! Ough ! 
Chorus, — Ough ! Ough ! 
Hyah ! Hyah ! 
Chorus.—Hysih ! Hyah I" 

This was the ridiculous song they kept up all day 
without intermission. 

We camped the first day at Bomboma's village, 
situated a mile to the south-west of the natural hill 
fortress of Zirnbili. Bombay was quite recovered 
from his thrashing, and had banished the sullen thoughts 
that had aroused my ire, and the men having behaved 
themselves so well, a five-gallon pot of pombe was 
brought to further nourish the valour, which they one 
and all thought they possessed. 

The second day we arrived at Masangi. I wsb 



278 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

visited soon afterwards by Soud, the son of S'dyd 
bin Majid, who told me the Arabs were waiting for 
me ; that they would not march from Mfuto until I had 
arrived. 

Eastern Mfuto, after a six hours' march, was reached 
on the third day from Unyanyembe. Shaw gave in, 
laid down in the road, and declared he was dying. 
This news was brought to me about 4 p.m. by one of 
the last stragglers. 1 was bound to despatch men to 
carry him to me, into my camp, though every man 
was well tired after the long march. A reward stimu- 
lated half-a-dozen to venture into the forest just at 
dusk to find Shaw, who was supposed to be at least 
three hours away from camp. 

About two o'clock in the morning my men returned, 
having carried Shaw on their backs the entire distance. 
I was roused up, and had him conveyed to my tent. I 
examined him, and I assured myself he was not suffering 
from fever of any kind ; and in reply to my inquiries 
as to how he felt, he said he could neither walk nor 
ride, that he felt such extreme weakness and lassitude 
that he was incapable of moving further. After ad- 
ministering a glass of port wine to him in a bowlful of 
sago gruel, we both fell asleep. 

We arrived early the following morning at Mfuto, the 
rendezvous of the Arab army. A halt was ordered the 
next day, in order to make ourselves strong by eating 
the beeves, which we freely slaughtered. 

The personnel of our army was as follov/s : — 



Sheikh Sayd bin Salim 



Khamis bin Abdullah . 
Thani bin Abdullah . 
Mussoud bin Abdullah 
Abdullah bin Mnssoud 
Ali bin Sayd bin Nasib 



25 half 
250 slaves 

80 „ 

75 „ 

80 „ 
250 ^ 



August, 1871.] LIFE IN UNYANYEMDE, 279 

Sheikh Nasur bin Miissoud 50 slaves 

„ Hamed Kimiani ...... 70 „ 

„ Sheikh Hamdani 30 „ 

„ Sayd bin Habib 50 „ 

„ SalimbinSayf 100 „ 

„ Sunguru 25 „ 

„ Saiboko ,25 „ 

„ Soud bin Sayd bin Majid ... 50 „ 

„ Mohammed bin Mussoud .... 30 „ 

„ Sayd bin Hamed 90 „ 

„ The ' Herald ' Expedition ... 50 soldiers 

„ Mkasiwa's Wanyamwezi .... 800 „ 

„ Half-castes and Wangwana . . .125 „ 

„ Independent chiefs and their followers 300 „ 

These made a total of 2,255, according to nnmber3 
given me by Thani bin Abdullah, and corroborated by 
a Baluch in the pay of Sheikh bin Nasib. Of these 
men 1,500 were armed with guns — flint-lock muskets, 
German and French double barrels, some English 
En fields, and American Springfields — besides these 
muskets, tliey were mostly armed with spears and long 
knives for the purpose of decapitating, and inflicting 
vengeful gashes in the dead bodies. Powder and ball 
were plentiful : some men were served a hundred rounds 
each, my pe )|)le received each man sixty rounds. 

As we filed out of the stronghold of Mfiito, with 
waving banners denoting the various commanders, with 
booming horns, and the roar of fifty bass drums, called 
gomas — with blessings showered on us by the mollahs, 
and happiest predications from the soothsayers, astro- 
logers, and the diviners of the Koran — who could have 
foretold that this grand force, before a week passed 
over its head, would be hurrying into that same strong- 
hold of Mfuto, with en ell man's heart in his moi.th 
from fear ? 

The date of our leaving Mfuto for battle witt 



280 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

Miiambo was the 3rd of August. All my goo'ls weie 
stored in Mfuto, ready for the march to Ujiji, should 
we be victorious over the African chief, but at least for 
safety, wliatever befel us. 

Long before we reached Umanda, I was in my ham 
mock in the paroxysms of a fierce attack of intermittent 
fever, which did not leave me until late that night. 

At Umanda, six hours from Mfuto, our warriors 
bedaubed themselves with the medicine which the 
wise men had manufactured for them— a compound of 
matama flour mixed with the juices of a herb whose 
virtues were only known to the Waganga of the Wan- 
yamw^ezi. 

At 6 A.M. on tlie 4th of August we were once more 
prepared for tlie road, but before we were marched out 
of the village, the " manneno," or speech, was delivered 
by the orator of the Wanyamwezi : 

u Words ! words ! words ! Listen, sons of Mkasiwa, 
children of Unyamwezi ! the journey is before you, the 
thieves of the forest are waiting ; yes, they are thieves, 
they cut up your caravans, they steal your ivory, they 
murder your women. Behold the Arabs are with you, 
El Wali of the Arab sultan, and the white man are 
with you. Go, the son of Mkasiwa is with you ; fight, 
kill, take slaves, take cloth, take cattle, kill, eat, and 
fill yourselves ! Go !" 

A loud, wild shout followed this bold harangue, the 
gates of the village were thrown open, and blue, red, 
and wln'te-robed soldiers were bounding uj)ward like so 
many gymnasts, firing their guns incessantly, in order 
to encourage themselves witli noise, or to strike terror 
into the hearts of those who awaited us within the 
strong enclosure of Zimbizo, Sultan Kolongo's place. 

As Zimhizo was distant only five hours from Umanda, 



August, 1871.] LIFE IN UNYANYEMBE, 281 

at 11 A.M. we came in view of it. We halted on the 
verge of the cultivated area around it and its neign- 
bours, within the shadow of the forest. Strict orders 
had been given by the several chiefs to their respective 
commands not to fire, until they were within shooting 
distance of the boma. 

Khamis bin Abdullah crept through the forest to the 
west of the village. The Wanyamwezi took their 
position before the main gateway, aided by the forces 
of Soud the son of Sayd on the right, and the son of 
Habib on the left, Abdullah, Mussoud, myself, and 
others made ready to attack the eastern gates, which 
arrangement effectually shut them in, with the exceptioii 
of the northern side. 

Suddenly, a volley opened on us, as we emerged from 
the forest along the Unyanyembe read, in the direction 
they liad been anticipating the sight of an enemy, and 
immediately the attacking forces began their firing in 
most splendid style. There were some ludicrous scenes 
)f men pretending to fire, then jumping off to one side. 
:.hen forw ard, then backward, with the agility of hop- 
ping frogs, but the battle was none the less in earnest. 
The breech-loaders of ray men swallowed my metallic 
cartridges much faster than I liked to see ; but happily 
there was a lull in the firing, and we were rushing into 
the village from the west, the south, the north, througn 
the gates and over the tall palings that surrounded the 
villaoe, like so many Merry Andrews ; and the poor 
vill^gvrs were flying from the enclosure towards tht- 
mountains, through the northern gate, pursued by the 
fleetest runners of our force, and pelted in tlie back by 
bullets from breech-loaders and shot-guns. 

Tlie village was strongly defended, and not more 
than twenty dead bodies were found in it, the strong 



282 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE 

thick wooden paling having afforded excellent protec- 
tion against our bullets. 

From Zimbizo, after having left a sufficient force 
within, we sallied out, and in an hour had cleared the 
neighbourhood of the enemy, having captured two 
other villages, which we committed to the flames, after 
gutting them of all valuables. A few tusks of ivory, 
and about fifty slaves, besides an abundance of grain, 
composed the " loot," which fell to the lot of the 
Arabs. 

On the 5t]'. a detachment of Arabs and slaves, seven 
hundred strong, scoured the surrounding country, and 
carried fire and devastation up to the boma of Wilyan- 
kuru. 

On the 6th, Soud bin Sayd and about twenty other 
young Arabs led a force of five hundred men against 
Wilyankur". itself, where it was supposed Mirambo 
was living. Another party went out towards the low 
wooded hills, a short distance north of Zimbizo, near 
which j^lace they surprised a youthful forest thief asleep, 
whose head they stretched backwards, and cut it off as 
though he were a goat or a sheep. Another party 
sallied out southward, and defeated a party of Mirambo's 
" bush-whackers," news of which came to our ears at 
noon. 

In the morning 1 had gone to Sayd bin Salim's 
tembe, to represent to him how necessary it was to 
burn the long graes in the forest of Zimbizo, lest it 
might hide any of the enemy ; but soon afterwards I 
had been struck down with another attack of inter- 
mittent fever, and was obliged to turn in and cover 
myself with blankets to produce perspiration, but not, 
however, till I had ordered Shaw and Bombay not 
to permit any of my men to leave the camp. But I 



August, 1871.] LIB'E IN UNYANYEMBE. 282 

was told soon afterwards by Selim that more than 
one half had gone to the attack on Wilyankuru, with 
Soud bin Sayd. 

About G P.M. the entire camp of Zimbizo was elec- 
trified with the news that all the Arabs who had 
accompanied Soud bin Sayd had been killed ; and thai 
more than one-half of his party had been slain. Some 
of my own men returned, and from them I learned 
that Uledi, Grant's former valet, Mabruki Khatalabu 
(Killer of his father), Mabruki (the Little), Baruti 
of Useguhha, and Ferahan had been killed. I learned 
also that they had succeeded in capturing Wilyankuru 
in a very short time, that Mirambo and his son were 
there, that as they succeeded in effecting an entrance, 
Mirambo had collected his men, and after leaving the 
village, had formed an ambusli in the grass, on each 
side of the road, between Wilyankuru and Zimbizo^ 
and that as the attacking party were returning home 
laden with over a hundred tusks of ivory, and sixty 
bales of cloth, and two or three hundred slaves, Mir- 
ambo's men suddenly rose up on each side of them, 
and stabbed them with their spears. The brave Soud 
had fired his double-barreled gun and shot two men, 
and was in the act of loading again when a spear was 
launched, which penetrated through and through liim : 
all the other Arabs shared the same fate. This sudden 
attack from an enemy they believed to be conquered, so 
demoralized the party that, dropping their spoil, each 
man took to his heels, and after making a wide detour 
througli the woods, returned to Zimbizo to repeat the 
dolorous tale. 

The effect of this defeat is indescribable. It was 
impossible to sleep, from the shrieks of the women 
whose husbands had fallen. All night they howled 



284 now 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

their lamentations, and sometimes might be heard the 
groans of the wounded who had contrived to crawl 
through the grass unperceived by the enemy. Fugi- 
tives were continually coming in throughout the night, 
but none of my men who were reported to be dead, 
were ever heard of again. 

The 7th was a day of distrust, sorrow, and retreat ; 
the Arabs accused one another for urging war without 
expending all peaceful means first. There were stormy 
councils of war held, wherein were some who proposed 
to return at once to Unyan3^embe, and keep within their 
own houses ; and Khamis bin Abdullah raved, hke an 
insulted monarch, against the abject cowardice of his 
compatriots. These stormy meetings and propositions 
to retreat were soon known throughout the camp, and 
assisted more than anything else to demoralize com- 
pletely the combined forces of Wanyamwezi and 
slaves. I sent Bombay to Sayd bin Salim to advise 
him not to think of retreat, as it would only be inviting 
Mirambo to carry the war to Unyanyembe. 

After despatching Bombay with this message, I fell 
asleep, but about 1.30 p.m. I was awakened by Selim 
saying, " Master, get up, they are all running away, 
and Khamis bin Abdullah is himself going.*' 

With the aid of Selim I dressed myself, and stag- 
gered towards the door. My first view was of Thani 
bin Abdullah being dragged away, who, when he 
caught sight of me, shouted out " Bana — quick — 
Mirambo is coming/' He was then turning to run, and 
putting on his jacket, with his eyes almost starting out 
of their sockets with terror. Khamis bin Abdullah 
was also about departing, he being the last Arab tc 
leave. Two of my men were following him; these 
Seiiui was ordered to force back with a revolver. 



A.OGU8T, 1871.] LIFE IN UNYANYEMBE. 286 

Shaw was saddling his donkey with my own saddle, pre- 
paratory to giving me the slip, and leaving me in the 
lurch to the tender mercies of Mirambo. There were 
only Bombay, Mabruki Speke, Chanda who was QOoWy 
eating liis dinner, Mabruk Unyanyerabe, Mtamani, 
Jnma, and Sarmian — only seven out of fifty. All 
the others had deserted and were by this time far away, 
except Uledi (Manwa Sera) and Zaidi, whom Selim 
brought back at the point of a loaded revolver. Selim 
was then told to saddle my donkey, and Bombay to 
assist Shaw to saddle his own. In a few moments we 
were on the road, the men ever looking back for the 
coming enemy ; they belabored the donkeys to some 
purpose, for they went at a hard trot, which caused me 
intense pain. I would gladly have lain down to die, 
but life was sweet, and I had not yet given up all hope 
of being able to preserve it to the full and final accom- 
plishment of my mission. My mind was actively at 
work planning and contriving during the long lonely 
hours of night, which we employed to reach Mfuto, 
whither I found the Arabs had retreated. In the night 
Shaw tumbled off his donkey, and would not rise, 
though implored to do so. As I did not despair myself, 
so I did not intend that Shaw should despair. He was 
lifted on his animal, and a man was placed on each side 
of him to assist him ; thus we rode through the dark- 
ness. At midnight we readied Mfuto safely, and were 
at once admitted into the village, from which we had 
issued so valiantly, but to which we were now returned 
so ignominiously. 

I found all my men had arrived here before dark. 
Ulimengo, the bold guide who had exulted in his 
weapons and in our immbers, and was so sanguine ol 
victory, had perlbrmed the eleven hours' march ia 



286 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

six hours ; sturdy Chowpereli, whom I regarded as 
the faithfiilest of my people, had arrived only half an 
hour later than Ulimengo; and frisky Khamisi, the 
dandy — the orator — the rampant demagogue yes — lie 
had come third ; and Speke's ''Faithfuls" had proved 
as cowardly as any poor " nigger " of them all. Only 
Selim — the Arah boy from Jerusalem, had proved brave 
and faithful. Shaw, though an European born, pi'oved 
he possessed a soul as base and mean as, if not 
meaner than, that of the negroes. 

I asked Selim, '* Why did you not also run away, and 
leave your master to die ?" 

" Oh, sir," said the Arab boy, naively, '* I was afraid 
you v/ould whip me/' 




GBOUP OF WANYAMWEZI. 



CHAPTER IX. 
LIFE IS UNYANYEMBE — {continued). 

It never occurred to the Arab magnates that I had 
cause of complaint against them ; it never occurred to 
them that I bad a right to feel aggrieved at their conduct, 
for the base desertion of an ally, who had, as a duty to 
friendship, taken up arms for tlieir sake. Their 
'' salaams " the next morning after the retreat, were 
given as if nothing had transpired to mar the good 
feeling that had existed between us. 

They were hardly seated, however, before I began 
to inform them that as the war was only between them 
and Mirambo, and that as I was afraid, if they were 
accustomed to run away after every little check, that the 



288 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

war might last a much longer time than I could afiford 
to lose ; and that as they had deserted their wounded 
on tlie field, and left their sick friends to take care of 
themselves, they must not consider me in the light of 
an ally any more. " I am satisfied," said I, " having 
seen your mode of fighting, that the war will not be 
ended in so short a time as you think it will. It took 
you five years, I hear, to conquer and kill Manwa Sera, 
you will certainly not conquer Mirambo in less than a 
year. I am a white man, accustomed to wars after a 
different style, I know something about fighting, but 
I never saw people run away from an encampment 
like ours at Zimbizo, for such slight cause as you had. 
By running away, you have invited Mirambo to follow 
you to Unyanyembe ; you may be sure he will come." 

The Arabs protested one after another that they had 
not intended to have left me, but the Wanyamwezi of 
Mkasiwa had shouted out that the '• Musungu " was 
gone, and the cry had caused a panic among their 
people, which it was impossible to allay. 

Later that day the Arabs continued their retreat to 
Tabora, whicli is twenty -two miles distant from Mfuto. 
1 determined to proceed moie leisurely, and on the 
bccond day after tlie flight from Zimbizo, my Expedition, 
with all tlie stores and baggage, marched back to 
Masangi, and on the third day to Kwihara. 

The folicAving extracts from the Diary I kept will 
serve to show better than anything else, my feelings 
and thoughts about this time^ after our disgraceful 
retreat : 

Kwihara, Friday^ Wth August, 1871. — Arrived to- 
day from Zimbili, village of Bomborna's. I am quite 
disappointed and almost disheartened. But I have one 
consolation, I liave done my duty by the Arabs, a duty 



August, 1871.] LIFE IN UNYANYEMDF. 289 

I thoTiorbt I owed to the kindness tliey received me 
witli ; now, however, the duty is discJiarged, and I 
ain free to pursue ray own course. I feel happy, for 
some reasons, that the duty has been paid at such a 
sh'ght sacrifice. Of course if I had lost my life in 
this enterprise, I should have been justly punished. 
But <\\A\vt from my duty to the consideration with 
which the Arabs liad received me, was the necessity of 
trying (.'very method of reaching Livingstone. This 
road which the war witli Mirambo has closed, is only 
a montlTs march from this place, and if tlie road could 
be opened with my aid, sooner than without it, why 
should I refuse my aid ? The attempt has been made 
for the second time to Ujiji — both have failed. I am 
going to try another route ; to attempt to go by the 
north would be folly. Mirambo's mother and people, and 
the Wasui, are between me and Ujiji, without including 
tlie Watuta, who are his allies, and robbers. The 
southern route seems to be the most practicable oneL 
Yery few people know anything of tlie cor.ntry south ; 
those whom I have questioned concerning it speak of 
" want of water " and robber VVazavira, as serious 
obstacles ; they also say that the settlements are few and 
far between. 

But before I can venture to try this new route, I 
have to employ a new set of men, as those whom I 
took to Mfuto consider their engagements at an end, 
and the fact of five of their number being killed rather 
damps their ardor for travelling. It is useless to hope 
that Wanyamwezi can be engaged, because it is against 
their custom to go with caravans, as carriers, during 
war time. My position is most serious. I have 
a good excuse for returning to the coast, but my 
conscience will not permit me to do so, after so much 

u 



290 BOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

money has been expended, and so much confidence has 
been placed in me. In fact, I feel I must die sooner 
than return. 

Saturday^ August \2t]i, — My men, as I supposed they 
would, have gone ; they said that I engaged them to 
go to Ujiji by Mirambo's road. I Imve only thirteen 
left. \Yith this small body of men, whither can I go ? 
I have over one hundred loads in the storeroom. 
Livingstone's caravan is also here ; his goods consist of 
seventeen bales of clotli, twelve boxes, and six bags of 
beads. His men are luxuriating upon the best the 
country affords. 

If Livingstone is at Ujiji, he is now locked up with 
small means of escape. I may consider myself also 
locked up at Unyanyembe, and I suppose cannot go to 
Ujiji until this war with Mirambo is settled. Living- 
stone cannot get his goods, for they are here with mine. 
He cannot return to Zanzibar, and the road to the Nile 
is blocked up. He might, if he has men and stores, 
possibly reach Baker by travelling northwards, through 
Urundi thence through Ruanda, Karagwah, Uganda, 
Unyoro, and Ubari to Gondokoro. Pagazis he cannot 
obtain, for the sources Avhence a supply might be 
obtained, are closed. It is an erroneous supposition to 
think that Livingstone, any more than any other 
energetic man of his calibre, can travel through Africa 
without some sort of an escort, and a durable supply of 
marketable cloth and beads. 

I was lOiJ to-day by a man that when Livingstone 
was coming from Nyassa Lake towards the Tanganika 
(the very time that people thought him murdered) he 
was met by Sayd bin Omar's caravan, wliich was bound 
for Ulamba. Tie was travelling with Mohammed bin 
Gharib. This Arab, who was coming from Urungii, 



August, 1871.] LIFE IN VNYANYEMBE. 21)1 

met Livingstone at Chi-ciimbi's, or Kwa-clii-kumWs, 
country, and travelled witli him afterwards, I hear, tc 
Manyuema or Manyema. Manyuema is forty marches 
from the north of Nyassa. Livingstone was walking ; 
he was dressed in American sheeting. He had lost all 
his cloth in Lake Liemba while crossing it in a boat. 
He had three canoes with liim ; in one he put his cloth, 
another he loaded with his boxes and some of his men, 
into the third he went himself with two servants and 
two fishermen. The boat with his cloth was upset. 
On leaving Nyassa, Livingstone went to Ubissa, thence 
to Uemba, thence to Unmgd. Livingstone wore a cap. 
He had a breecli-loading double-barreled rifle with him, 
which fired fulminating balls. He was also armed with 
two revolvers. The Wahiyow with Livingstone told 
this man that their master had many men with him at 
first, but that several had deserted him. 

August 13th, — A caravan came in to-day from the 
sea-coast. They reported that William L. Farquhar, 
whom I left sick at Mpwapwa, Usagara, and his cook, 
were dead. Farquhar, I was told, died a few days 
after I had entered Ugogo, his cook died a few weeks 
later. My first impulse was for revenge. I believed 
that Leukole had played me false, and had poisoned 
him, or that he had been murdered in some other 
manner ; but a personal interview with the Msawahili 
who brought the news informing me that Farquhar 
had succumbed to his dreadful illness has done away 
with that suspicion. So far as I could understand him, 
Farquhar had in the morning declared himself well 
enough to proceed, but in attempting to rise, had fallen 
backward and died. I was also told that the Wasagarn, 
possessing some superstitious notions respecting the dead, 
had ordered Jako to take the body out for burial, that 



292 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

Jako, not being able to cany it, had dragged tlie body 
to the jungle, and there left it naked without the 
slightest covering of earth, or any tiling else. 

•' There is one of us gone, Sliaw, my boy ! Who will 
be the next?" I remarked that night to my companion. 

August 14:th, — Wrote some letters to Zanzibar. 
Sbaw was taken very ill last night, whether of fever or 
what, I do not know. I do not think it is the fever. 
I suspect it is a fierce attack of a venereal affection. 
I have no medicines for this disease. So I have sent 
three soldiers to Zanzibar for them, having bribed them 
to haste, with a promise of $50 each. 

August l^tli. Saturday, — My soldiers are employed 
stringing beads. Shaw is still a-led. We hear that 
Miranibo is coming to Unyanyembe. A detachment 
of Arabs and their slaves have started this morning to 
possess themselves of the powder left there by the 
redoubtable Sheikh Sayd bin Salim, the connnander-in- 
chief of the Arab settlements. 

August 2\st. Monday. — Shaw still sick. One 
hundred fundo of beads have been strung. The Arabs 
are preparing for another sally against Mirambo. The 
advance of Mirambo upon Unyanyembe was denied by 
Sayd bin Salim, this morning. 

August 22nd. — We were stringing beads this morning 
when, about 10 a.m., we heard a continued firing from 
the direction of Tabora. Rushing out from oui- work 
to the front door facing Tabora, we heard considerable 
volleying, and scattered firing, plainly; and ascending 
to the top of my tembe, I saw with my glasses the 
smoke of the guns. Some of my men who were sent 
on to ascertain the cause came running back with the 
information that Mirambo had attacked Tabora with 
ii\cr two thoui^and men, and that a force of over one 



I 



August, 1871.] LIFE IN UNYANYEMBE, 293 

thousand Watuta, who had allied tliemselves with him 
for the sake of plunder, had come suddenly upon 
Tabora, attacking from opposite directions. 

Later in the day, or about noon, watching the low 
saddle over which we could see Tabora, we saw i{ 
crowded with fugitives from that settlement, who were 
rushing to our settlement at Kwihara for protection. 
From these people we heard tlie sad information that 
the noble Khamis bin Abdullah^ his little protege, 
Khamis, Mohammed bin Abdullah, Ibrahim bin Eashid, 
and Sa^^f, the son of Ali, the son of Sheikh, the son of 
Nasib, had been slain. 

When I inquired into the details of the attack, and 
the manner of the death of these Arabs, I was told 
that after the first firing which warned the inhabitants 
of Tabora that the enemy was upon them, Khamis bin 
Abdullah and some of the principal Arabs who 
happened to be with him, had asc(;nded to the roof of 
his tembe, and with his spyglass he had looked towards 
the direction of the firing. To his great astonishment 
he saw the plain around Tabora filled witli approaching 
savages, and about two miles off, near Kazima, a tent 
pitched which he knew to belong to Mirambo, from its 
having been presented to that chief by the Arabs of 
Tabora when they were on good terms with him. 

Khamis bin Abdullah descended to his hou;^e saying, 
"Let us go to meet him. Arm yourselves, my friends, 
and come with me." His friends advised him strongly 
not to go out of his tembe ; for so long as each Arab 
kept to his tembe they were more than a match ^oy 
the Ruga-Ruga and the Watuta together. But Khamis 
broke out impatiently with, ^' Would you advise us 
to stop in our tembes, for fear of this Mshensi (|)aganj ? 
Who goes with me?" His little protege, Khamis, son 



294 EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, 

of a dead friend, asked to be allowed to be his gun- 
bearer ; Mohammed bin Abdullah, Ibrahim bin Rashid, 
and Sayf, the son of Ali, young Arabs of good families, 
who were proud to live with the noble Khamis/ also 
offered to go with him. After hastily arming eighty 
of his slaves, contrary to the advice of his prudent 
friends, he sallied out, and was soon face to face with 
his cunning and determined enemy Mirambo. This 
chief, upon seeing the Arabs advance towards him, 
gave orders to retreat slowly. Khamis, deceived by 
this, rushed on with his friends after them. Suddenly 
Mirambo ordered his men to advance upon them in a 
body, and at the sight of the precipitate rush upon their 
party, Khamis's slaves incontinently took to their heels, 
never even deigning to cast a glance behind them, 
leaving their master to the fate which was now over- 
taking him. The savages surrounded the five Arabs, 
and though several of them fell before the Arabs' fire, 
continued to shoot at the. little party, until Khamis bin 
Abdullah received a bullet in the leg, which brought 
him to his knees, and, for the first time, to the knowledge 
that his slaves had deserted him. Though wounded, the 
brave man continued shooting, but he soon afterwards 
received a bullet tli rough the heart. Little Khamis, upon 
seeing his adopted father's fall, exclaimed ! *'My father 
Khamis is dead^ I will die with him," and continued 
fighting until he received, shortly after, his death wound. 
In a few minutes there was not one Arab left alive. 

Late at night some more particulars arrived of this 
tragic scene. I was told by people who saw the bodies, 
that the body of Khamis bin Abdullah, who was 
a fine, noble, brave, portly man, was found with 
the skin of his forehead, the beard and skin of the lower 
part of his face, the fore part of the nose, the fat over 



August, 1871.] LIFE IN UNYANYEMBE. 295 

the stomach and abdomen, the genital organs, and, 
lastly, a bit from each heel, cut off, by the savage 
allies of Mirambo. And in the same condition were 
found the bodies of his adopted son and fallen friends. 
The flesh and skin thus taken from the bodies was 
taken, of course, by the waganga or medicine men, to 
make what they deem to be the most powerful potion 
of all to enable men to be strong against their enemies. 
This potion is mixed up with their ugali and rice, and 
is taken in this manner with the most perfect confidence 
in its efficacy, as an invulnerable protection against 
bullets and missiles of all descriptions. 

It was a most sorry scene to witness from our excited 
settlement at Kwihara, almost the whole of Tabora in 
flames, and to see the hundreds of people crowding into 
Kwihara. 

Perceiving that my people were willing to stand by 
me, I made preparations for defence by boring loop- 
holes for muskets into the stout clay walls of my 
tembe. They were made so quicldy, and seemed so 
admirably adapted for the efficient defence of the tembe, 
that my men got quite brave, and Wangwana refugees 
with guns in their hands, driven out of Tabora, asked 
to be admitted into our tembe to assist in its defence. 
Livingstone's men were also collected, and invited to 
help defend their master's goods against Mirambo's 
supposed attack. By night I had one hundred and fifty 
armed men in my courtyard, stationed at every possible 
point where an attack might be expected. To-morrow 
Mirambo has threatened tliat he will come to Kwihara. 
I hope to God he will come, and if he comes within 
range of an American rifle, I shall see what virtue lieg 
in American lead. 

August 23rd. — We have passed a very anxious day in 



i96 now J FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

the valley of Kwihara. Our eyes were constantly directed 
towards uu fortunate Tabora. It has been said that 
three tembes ouly have stood the brunt of the attack. 
Abid bin Suliman's house has been destroyed, and over 
two hundred tusks of ivory that belonged to him have 
become tlie property of the African Bonaparte. My 
tembe is in as efficient a state of defence as its style and 
means of defence will allow. Rifle-pits surround the 
house outside, and all native huts that obstructed the 
view have been torn down, and all trees and shrubs 
which might serve as a slielter for any one of the 
enemy have been cut. Provisions and water enough 
for six days have been brought. I have ammunition 
enough to last two weeks, and, without boasting, I 
do not think that 10,000 Africans could take it, though 
a body of 400 or 500 Europeans might easily do it, 
unassisted by cannon ; with cannon 50 Europeans 
could easily take tlie place. The walls are three feet 
thick, and theie are apartments within apartments, so 
that a desperate body of men could fight until the last 
room had been taken. 

The Arabs, my neighbours, endeavour to seem brave, 
but it is evident they are about despairing; I have 
heard it rumoured that the Arabs of Kwihara, if Tabora 
is taken, will start en masse for the coast, and give the 
country up to Mirambo. If such are their intentions, 
and they are really carried into effect, I shall be in a 
pretty mess. However, if they do leave me, Mirambo will 
not reap any benefit from my stores, nor from Living- 
stone's either, for I sliall burn the whole house, and 
everything in it; that's my idea. But what in the 
name of every thiiig will become of Shaw ? In such a 
crisis nobody would carry him. 

Aiiijust '2 4//^ - The American flag is still waving 



August, 1871.] . LIFE IN UNYANYEMBE. 297 

above my house, and the Arals are still in [Jnyan- 
yembe. 

About 10 A.M., a messenger came from Tabora, 
asking us if we were not going to assist tliem against 
Mirambo. I felt very much like going out to help 
them ; but after debating long upon the pros and cons 
of it, — asking myself, Was it prudent ? Ouglit I to 
go ? What will become of the people if I were killed ? 
Will they not desert me again ? What was the 
fate of Khamis bin Abdullah ? — I sent word that I 
would not go ; that they ought to feel perfectly at 
home in their tembes against such a force as Mirambo 
had, that I should be very glad if they could induce 
him to come to Kwihara, in which case I would try and 
pick him off. 

They say that Mirambo, and his principal officer, 
carry umbrellas over their heads, that he himself has 
long hair like a Mnyamwezi pagazi, and a beard. If 
he comes, all the men carrying umbrellas will have 
bullets rained on them in the hope that one lucky bullet 
may hit him. According to popular ideas, I should 
make a silver bullet, but I have no silver with me. I 
might make a gold one. 

About noon I went over to see Sheikh bin Nasib, 
leaving about LOO men inside the house to guard it 
while I was absent. This old fellow is quite a philo- 
sopher in his way. I should call him a professor of 
minor philosophy. He is generally so sententious — 
fond of aphorisms, and a very deliberate character. I 
was astonished to find him so despairing. His aphorisms 
have deserted him, his philosophy has not been able to 
stand against disaster. He listened to me, more like a 
man moribund, than one possessing all the means of 
defence and offence. 



298 now 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

I loaded his two-pouiider with ball, and gra-pe, and 
small slugs of iron, and advised him not to fire it until 
Mirambo's people were at his gates. 

About 4 P.M. I heard that Mirambo had deported 
himself to Kazima, a place north-west of Tabora a 
couple of miles, 

August 2'oth, — The Arabs sallied out this morning 
to attack Kazima, but refrained, because Mirambo 
asked for a day's grace, to eat the beef he had stolen 
from them. He has asked them impudently to come 
to-morrow morning, at which time he says he will give 
them a billyful of fighting. 

Kwihara is once more restored to a peaceful aspect, 
and fugitives no longer throng its narrow limits in fear 
and despair. 

August 21th, — Mirambo retreated during the night; 
and uhen tlie Arabs went in force to attack his village 
of Kazima, tliey found it vacant. 

The Arabs hold councils of war now-a-days — battle 
meetings, of which they seem to be very fond, but 
extremely slow to act upon. They were about to make 
friends with the northern Watuta, but Mirambo was 
ahead of tliem. They had talked of invading Mirambo's 
territory the second, time, but Mirambo invaded Un- 
yanyembe with fire and sword, bringing death to many 
a household, and he has slain the noblest of them all. 

The Arabs spend their hours in talking and arguing, 
while the Ujiji and Karagwali roads are more firmly 
closed than ever. Indeed, many of the influential 
Arabs are talking of returning to Zanzibar ; saying, 
" Unyanyembe is ruined." I have lost all my respect 
for them. 

Meanwhile, with poor success, however, perceiving 
the impossibility of procuring Wanyamwezi pagazis, 



August, 1871.] LIFE IN VNYANYEMBE. £99 

I am hiring the Wangwana renegades living in 
Unyanyembe to proceed with me to Ujiji, at treble 
prices. Each man is offered 30 doti, ordinary hiie of 
a carrier being only from 5 to 10 doti to Ujiji. I want 
fifty men. I intend to leave about sixty or seventy 
loads here under charge of a guard. I shall leave all 
personal baggage behind, except one small port- 
manteau. 

August 2Sth. — No news to-day of Mirambo. Shaw 
is getting strong again. 

Sheikh bin Nasib called on me to-day, but, except 
on minor philosophy, he had nothing to say. 

I have determined, after a study of the country, 
to lead a flying caravan to Ujiji, by a southern road 
through northern Ukonongo and Ukawendi. Sheikh 
bin Nasib has been informed to-night of this deter- 
mination. 

August 29th, — Shaw got up to-day for a little work. 
Alas ! all my fine-spun plans of proceeding by boat over 
the Victoria N'Yanza, thence down the Nile, have been 
totally demolished, I fear, through this war with 
Mirambo — this black Bonaparte. Two months have 
been wasted here already. The Arabs take such a long 
time to come to a conclusion. Advice is plentiful, and 
words are as numerous as the blades of grass in our 
valley ; all that is wanting is decision. The Arabs' 
hope and stay is dead — Khamis bin Abdullah is no 
more. Where are the other warriors of whom the 
Wangwana and Wanyamwezi bards sing ? Where is 
mighty Kisesa— great Abdullah bin Nasib ? Where 
is Sayd, the son of Majid ? Kisesa is in Zanzibar, 
and Sayd, the son of Majid, is in Ujiji, as yet ignorant 
that his son has fallen in the forest of Wilyankuru. 

Shaw is improving fast. I am unsuccessful as 



300 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

yet In procuring soldiers. I almost despair of ever 
being able to move from here. It is such a drowsy, 
sleepy, slow, dreaming country. Arabs, Wangwana, 
Wanyamwezi, are all alike — all careless bow time 
flies. Their to-morrow means sometimes within a 
month. To me It Is simply maddening. 

August oOth. — Shaw will not work. I cannot get 
him to stir himself. I have petted him, and coaxed 
him ; I have even cooked little luxuries for him myself. 
And, while I am straining every nerve to get ready 
for Ujiji^ Rhaw is satisfied with looking on listlessly. 
What a change from the ready -handed bold man he 
was at Zanzibar ! 

I sat down by his side to-day with my palm and 
needle, in order to encourage him, and to-day, for the 
first time, I told him of the real nature of my mission. 
I told him that I did not care about the geograpljy 
of the country lialf as much as I cared about fixdixg 
Livingstone 1 I told him, for the first time, " Now, my 
dear Shaw, you think probably that I have been sent 
here to find the depth of the Tanganika. Not a bit of 
it, man ; I was told to find Livingstone. It is to find 
Livingstone I am here. It is to find Livingstone I am 
going. Don't you see, old fellow, the Importance of 
the mission, don't you see what reward you will get 
from Mr. Bennett, if you will help me. I am sure, if 
ever you come to New York, you will never be in want 
of a fifty-dollar bill. So shake yourself; jump about; 
look lively. Say you will not die; that is half the 
battle. Snap your fingers at the fever. I wiU 
guarantee the fever won't kill you. I have medicine 
enough for a regiment here!" 

Bah ! Bah ! I was talking to a lifeless mummy. 
His e}es lit up a little, but the light that shone in theuj 



Sept. 1871.] LIFE IN UNYANYEMBE, SOI 

shortly focled, and died. I was quite disheartened. 1 
made some strong punch, to put fire in bis veins, that I 
might see life in him. I put sugar, and eggs, and 
seasoned it with lemon and spice. " Drink, Shaw," 
said I, "and forget your miserable infirmities. Don't 
breathe in my f\ice, man, as if you were about to die. 
Leave off this pantomime. You are not sick, dear 
fellow ; it is only ennui you are feeling. Look at Selim 
there. Now, I will bet any amount, that he will not 
die; that I will carry him home safe to his friends at 
Jerusalem ! I will carry you home also, if you will 
let me !" 

Piff-puif at his nasty pipe. Hear him breathe ! You 
would think he was dying ; but he is not even sick. 
He told me, only the other day, that he knew every 
trick of old sea-salts, when they wished to shirk duty at 
sea. I am sure he is practising a trick on me. This 
intermittent fever ! I know <dYQry stage of it; and I feel 
convinced he has not got it. 

Of one thing I feel sure, that if I took a stick I 
could take the nonsense out of him. 

September \st. — According to Thani bin Abdullah 
whom I visited to-day, at his tembe in Maroro, Mirambo 
lost two hundred men in the attack upon Tabora, 
while the Arabs' losses were, five Arabs, thirteen free- 
men and eight slaves, besides three tembes^ and over 
one hundred small huts burned, two hundred and 
eighty ivory tusks, and sixty cows and bullocks 
captured. 

September 3rd, — Received a packet of letters and 
newspapers from Capt. Webb, at Zanzibar. What a 
good thing it is that one's friends, even in far America, 
think of the absent one in Africa ! They tell me, that 
no one dreams of my being in Africa yet ! 



cJ02 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

I applied to Sheikh bin Nasib to-day to permit 
Livingstone's caravan to go under my charge to Ujiji, 
but he would not listen to it. He says he feels certain 
I am going to my death. 

September Ath. — Shaw is quite well to-day, he says. 
Selim is down with the fever. My force is gradually 
increasing, though some of my old soldiers are falling 
off. Umgareza is blind ; Baruti has the small-pox very 
badly ; Bilali has a strange disease, an ulcer or some- 
thing, rear-ward ; Sadala has the Mukunguru (the 
intermittent). 

September bth. — Baruti died this morning. He was 
one of my best soldiers ; and was one of those men 
who accompanied Speke to Egypt. Baruti is number 
seven of those w4io have died since leaving Zanzibar. 

To-day my ears have been poisoned with the reports 
of the Arabs, about the state of the country I am about 
to travel through. " The roads are bad ; they are all 
stopped ; the Ruga-Riiga are out in the forests ; the 
Wakonongo are coming from the south to help 
Mirambo ; the Washensi are at war, one tribe against 
another." My men are getting dispirited, they have 
imbibed the fears of the Arabs and the Wanyamwezi. 
Bombay begins to feel that I had better go back to the 
coast, and try again some other time. 

We buried Baruti under the shade of the banyan- 
tree, a few yards west of my tembe. The grave was made 
four and a half feet deep and three feet wide. At the 
bottom on one side a narrow trench was excavated, into 
which the body was rolled on his side, with his face 
turned towards Mecca. The body was dressed in a doti 
and a half of new American sheeting. After it was 
placed properly in its narrow bed, a sloping roof of 
Bticks, covered over with matting and old canvas, was 



Sept. 1871.] LIFE IN UNYANYEMBE. 3CS 

made, to prevent the earth from falling over the body. 
The grave was tlien filled, the soldiers laughing merrily. 
On the top of the grave was planted a small slnaib, and 
into a small hole made with the hand, was poured water 
lest he might feel thirsty — they said — on his way to 
Paradise ; water was then sprinkled all over the grave, 
and the gourd broken. This ceremony being ended, 
the men recited the Arabic Fat-hah, after which they 
left the grave of their dead comrade to think no more 
of him. 

September 1th. — An Arab named Mohammed pre- 
sented me to-day with a little boy slave, called "Ndugu 
M'hali " (my brother's wealth). As 1 did not like the 
name, I called the chiefs of my caravan together, and 
asked them to give him a better name. One suggested 
" Simba " (a lion), another said he thought " Ngombe " 
(a cow) would suit the boy-child, another thought he 
ought to be called '^ Mirambo," which raised a loud 
laugh. Bombay thought " Bombay Mdogo " would suit 
my black-skinned infant very well. Ulimengo, however 
after looking at his quick eyes, and noting his celerity 
of movement, pronounced the name Ka-lu-lu as the 
best for liim, "because," said he, "just look at his eyes, 
so bright ! look at his form, so slim ! watch his move- 
ments, how quick 1 Yes, Kalulu is his name." " Yes, 
bana," said the others, " let it be Kalulu." 

" Kalulu *' is a Kisawahili term for the young of the 
blue-buck (perpusilla) antelope. 

" Well, then," said I, water being brought in a huge 
tin pan, Selim, who was willing to stand godfather 
holding him over the water, " let his name henceforth be 
Kalulu, and let no man take it from him," and thus it 
was that the little black boy of Mohammed's came to be 
called Kalulu. 



:!04 now I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

The Expedition is increasing in numbers; it is no^ 
composed of: 

2 white men. 
1 Arab boy. 
1 Hindi. 
29 Wangwana. 
1 boy from Londa (Cazembes). 
1 boy from Uganda. 
1 boy from Liemba, or Uwemba. 

We had quite an alarm before dark. Much firing 
was heard at Tabora, which led us to anticipate an 
attack on Kwibara. It turned out, however, to be a 
salute fired in honor of the arrival of Sultan Kitambi 
to pay a visit to Mkasiwa, Sultan of Unyanyembe. 

SeptcviluT Sth. — Towards night Sheikh bin Nasib 
received a letter from an Arab at Mfuto, reporting that 
an attack was made on that place by Mirambo and his 
Watuta allies. It also warned him to bid the people 
of Kwibara hold themselves in readiness, because if 
Mirambo succeeded in storming Mfuto, he would march 
direct on Kwibara. 

September dth, — Mirambo was defeated with severe 
loss yesterday, in his attack upon Mfuto. He was 
successful in an assault he made upon a small Wanyam- 
wezi village, but when he attempted to storm Mfuto, he 
was repulsed with severe loss, losing three of his 
principal men. Upon withdrawing his forces from the 
attack, the inhabitants sallied out, and followed him to 
the forest of Umanda, where he was again utterly 
routed, himself ingloriously fiying from the field. 

The heads of his chief men slain in the attack were 
brought to Kwikuru, the boma of Mkasiwa. 

September lYth, — Shaw is a sentimental driveller, 



Sept. 1871.] LIFE IN UNYANYEMBE. 305 

with a large share of the principles of Jose|)h Surface 
within his nature. He is able at times to kindle 
into an eloquent rant about the vices of mankind, 
particularly those of rich people. His phih'ppics on this 
topic deserved a better audience than I furnished him. 

He has a habit of being self-absorbed— is an oddity 
quite the reverse of Jack Bunsby. Instead of looking 
towards the horizon, he regards the ground at his feet 
with a look which seems to say, there is something 
wrong somewhere, and I am trying to find out where 
it can be, and how to rectify it. 

He told me to-day his father had been a captain in 
Her Majesty's navy, that he had been present at four 
levees of Queen Victoria. This can liardly be, however, 
as I cannot imagine a naval captain's son being so 
ignorant of penmanship as scarcely to be able to write 
his own name, nor can I see how it is possible that he 
could have been presented to the Queen, for I have 
always understood that the Court of St. James's is the 
most aristocratic in Europe. 

He is very angry, though, with me, because I laugh 
at him, and has just opened a sentimental battery on 
me which makes me almost cry out with vexation that 
I encumbered myself with such a fool. 

September lith. — The Arab boy Selim is delirious 
from constant fevers. Shaw is sick again, or pretends 
to be. These two occupy most of my time. I am turned 
into a regular nurse, for 1 have no one to assist me in 
attending upon tliem. If I try to instruct Abdul Kader 
in the art of being useful, his head is so befogged with 
the villainous fumes of Unyamwezi tobacco, that he 
wanders bewildered about, breaking dislies, and up- 
^etting cooked dainties, until I get so exasperated that 
my peace of mind is broken completely for a full hour 



306 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

if 1 ask F'erajji, my now formally constituted cook to 
assist, his thick wooden head fails to receive an idea, and 
I am thus obliged to play the part of chef de cuisine. 

September I5th, — The third month of my residence 
in Unyanyembe is almost finished, and I am still here, 
but I hope to be gone before the 23rd inst. 

All last night, until nine a.m. this morning, my 
soldiers danced and sang to the manes of their dead 
comrades, whose bones now bleach in the forests of 
Wilyankuru. Two or three huge pots of pombe failed 
to satisfy the raging thirst which the vigorous exercise 
they were engaged in, created. So, early this morning, 
[ was called upon to contribute a shukka for another 
potful of the potent liquor. 

To-day I was busy selecting the loads for each 
soldier and pagazi. In order to lighten their labor as 
much as j)ossible, I reduced each load from 70 lbs. to 
60 lbs., by which I hope to be enabled to make some 
loug marches. I have been able to engage ten pagazis 
during the last two or three days. 

I have two or three men still very sick, and it is 
almost useless to expect that they will be able to carry 
anything, but I am in hopes that other men may be 
engaged to take their places before the actual day of 
departure, which now seems to be drawing near 
rapidly. 

September Y^tJi. — We have almost finished our work — 
on the fifth day from this — God willing — we shall march. 
I engaged two more pagazis besides two guides, named 
Asmani and Mabruki. If vastuess of the human form 
could terrify any one, certainly Asniani's appearance is 
well calculated to produce that effect. He stands con- 
siderably over six feet without shoes, and has shoulders 
broad enough for two ordinary men. 



Sept. 1871.] LlFE IN UNYANYEMBE. 307 

To-morrow I mean to give the people a farewell feast, 
to celebrate our departure from this forbidding and 
imhappy country. 

September 17th. — The banquet is ended. I slaugh- 
tered two bullocks, and had a barbacue ; three sheep, 
two goats, and fifteen chickens, 120 lbs. of rice, twenty 
large loaves of bread made of Indian corn-flour, one hun- 
dred eggs, 10 lbs. of butter, and five gallons of sweet- 
milk, were the contents of which the banquet was 
formed. The men invited their friends and neighbours, 
and about one hundred women and children par- 
took of it. 

After the banquet was ended, the pombe, or native 
beer, was brought in in five gallon pots, and the people 
commenced their dance, which continues even now as 1 
write. 

September Idth. — I had a slight attack of fever to-day, 
which has postponed our departure. Selim and Shaw 
are both recovered. Selim tells me that Shaw has said 
thai I would die like a donkey ; and that he said he would 
take charge of my journals, and trunks, and proceed to 
the coast immediately, if I die. This afternoon, ho is 
stated to have said that he does not intend to go to 
Ujiji, but that when I am gone, he will stock the yard 
full of chickens, in order to be able to get fresh eggs 
every day, and that he will buy a cow, from which 
he will be able to procure fresh milk daily. 

At night Shaw came to me while the fever was at its 
height, to ask me to whom I would like to have him 
write, in case I should die, because, said he, even the 
strongest of us may die. I told him to go and mind hi& 
own business, and not be croaking near me. 

About 8 P.M. Sheik bin Nasib came to me imploring 
me not to go away to-morrow, because I was so sick, 



808 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTOJ^E, 

Thani Sakliburi suggested to me that I might stay 
another month ; in answer, I told them that white men 
are not accustomed to break their words. I had said 
I would go, and I intended to go. 

Sheikh bin Nasib gave up all hope of inducing me 
to remain another day, and he has gone away, with a 
promise to write to Syed Burghash to tell him how 
ohstinate I am, and that I am determined to be killed. 
This was a parting shot. 

About 10 P.M. the fever had gone. All were asleep 
in the tembe but myself, and an unutterable lone- 
liness came on me as I reflected on my position, and 
my intentions, and felt the utter lack of sympathy 
with me in all around. Even my own white assistant, 
witli whom I had striven hard, was less sympathizing 
than my little black boy Kalulu. It requires more 
nerve than I possess, to dispel all the dark pre- 
sentiments that come upon the mind. But probably 
what I call presentiments are simply the impi-ess on 
the mind of the warnings which these false-) i ear ted 
Arabs have repeated so often. This melancholy and 
loneliness I feel, may probably have their origin from 
the same cause. The single candle, which barely lights 
up the dark shade that fills the corners of my room, 
is but a poor incentive to cheerfulness. I feel as though 
I were imprisoned between stone walls. But why 
should I feel as if baited by these stupid, slow-witted 
Arabs and their warnings and croakings ? I fancy a 
suspicion haunts my mind, as I write, that there lies 
some motive behind all this. I wonder if these Arabs 
tell me all these things to keep me here, in the hope 
that I miglit be induced another time to assist them in 
their war with Mirambo ! If they think so, tliey are 
much mistaken, for I have taken a solemn, eudurij^g 



Sept. 1871.] LIFF. JN UNYANYEMBB 309 

oath, an oath to be kept while the least liope of life 
remains in me, not to be tempted to break the resolution 
I have formed, never to give up the search, until T find 
Livingstone alive, or find his dead body ; and never 
to return home vrithout the strongest possible proofs 
that he is alive, or that he is dead. No living man, 
or living men, shall stop me, only death can prevent 
me. But death — not even this ; I shall not die, I will 
not die, 1 cannot die ! And something tells me, I do 
not know what it is — perhaps it is the ever-living hope- 
fulness of my own nature, perhaps it is the natural, 
presumption born out of an abundant and glowing 
vitality, or the outcome of an overweening confidence 
in one's self — anyhow and every how, something tells 
me to-night I shall find him, and — write it larger — 
FiXD HIM ! Find him ! Even the words are inspiring. 
I feel more happy. Have I uttered a prayer ? I shall, 
sleep calmly to-night. 

I have felt myself compelled to copy out of my Diary 
the above notes, as they explain, written as they are on 
the spot, the vicissitudes of my ** Life at Unyanyenibe." 
To me they appear to explain far better than any 
amount of descriptive writing, even of the most graphic, 
the nature of the life I led. There they are, un- 
exaggerated, in their literality and entirety, precisely 
as 1 conceived them at the time they happened. Thej 
speak of feveis without number to myself and men^ 
without en*/ering into any diagnosis of or disquisition 
npiin tlicni , tbey relate our dangers, and little joys, oui 
oiinoyAiicea and our pleasures, as they occurred. 



no 



HOW J FOUND LTVTNQSTONF, 







CHAPTER X. 






TO MRERA, 


UKONONGO. 




Unyamwezi 




Ukonongo. 


From Kwiliara to 


— 


h.m. 


From Manyara to- 


h. m. 


Mkwenkwe 




. 1 30 


Gombe River 


. . 4 16 


Inesuka . 




. 2 


Ziwani 


. . 5 20 


Kasegera 




..30 


Tongoni , 


. . 1 30 


Kigandu , 




. 2 46 


Camp 


. . 5 15 


Ugunda . 




..70 


Marefu . 


..30 


Benta 




. 3 15 


Utende . 


. . 7 16 


Kikuru 




..60 


Mtoni 


...40 


Ziwani . 




. 4 


Mwaru 


. . . 5 15 


Manyara . 




. 6 30 


Mrera . , 


. . 5 13 



The 20th of September had arrived. This was the day 
I liad decided to cut loose from those who tormented 
me with their doubts, their fears, and behefs, and com- 
mence the march to Ujiji by a southern route. I was 
very weak from the fever that had attacked me the day 
before, and it was a most injudicious act to commence a 
march under such circumstances. But I had boasted to 



Sept. 1871.] TO MBEBA, UKONONGO, 3U 

Sheikh bin Nasib that a wliite man never breaks his 
word, and my reputation as a white man would have 
been ruined had I stayed behind, or postponed the 
march, in consequence of feebleness. 

I mustered the entire caravan outside the tembe, 
our flags and streamers were unfurled, the men had 
their loads resting on the walls, there was considerable 
shouting, and laughing, and negroidal fanfaronnade. 
The Arabs had collected from curiosity's sake to see us 
off — all except Slieikh bin Nasib, whom I had offended 
by my asinine opposition to his wishes. The old Sheikh 
took to his bed, but sent his son to bear me a last morsel 
of philosophic sentimentality, which I was to treasure 
up as the last words of the patriarchal Sheikh, the son of 
Nasib, the son of Ali, the son of Sayf. Poor Sheikh ! if 
thou hadst only known what was at the bottom of this 
stubbornness — this ass-like determination to proceed 
the wrong way — what wouldst thou then have said, 
Sheikh ? But the Sheikh comforted himself with the 
thought that I might know what I was about better 
than he did, which is most likely, only neither he nor 
any other Arab will ever know exactly the motive that 
induced me to march at all westward — when the road 
to the east was ever so much easier. 

My braves whom I had enlisted for a rapid march 
somewhere, out of Unyanyembe, were named as fol- 
lows : — 

1. John William Shaw, London, England. 

2. Selim Heshmy, Jerusalem, Palestine. 

3. Seedy Mbarak Mombay, Zanzibar. 

4. Mabruki Speke, ditto. 

5. Ulimengo, ditto. 

6. Ambari, ditto. 

7. Uledi, ditto. 



812 HOW I FOUND LIVING8T0NK 

8. Asmani, Zanzibar. 

9. Sarmian, ditto. 

10. Kamna, ditto. 

11. Zaidi, ditto. 

12. Kbamisi, ditto. 

13. Chowpereh, Bagamoyo. 

14. Kingani, ditto. 

15. Belali, ditto. 

16. Ferous, Unyanyembe. 

17. Rojab, Bagamoyo. 

18. Mabnik Unyanyembe, Unyanyembe. 

19. Mtamani, ditto. 

20. Cbanda, Maroro. 

21. Sadabi, Zanzibar. 

22. Kombo, ditto. 

23. Saburi tbe Great, Maroro. 

24. Saburi tbe Little, ditto. 

25. Marora, ditto. 

26. Ferajji (tbe cook), Zanzibar. 

27. Mabruk Saleem^ Zanzibar. 

28. Baraka, ditto. 

29. Ibrabini, Maroro. 

30. Mabruk Ferous, ditto. 

31. Baruti, Bagamoyo. 

32. Umgareza, Zanzibar. 

33. Hauiadi (tbe guide), ditto. 

34. Asinani, ditto ditto. 

35. Mabruk, ditto ditto. 

36. Hanidallab, ditto, Tabora. 

37. Juuiah, Zanzibar. 

38. Magaiiga, Mkwenkwe. 

39. Muccadum, Tabora. 

40. Dasturi, ditto. 

41. Tuuiayoua, Ujiji. 



Sept. 1871.] TO MBEBA, UKONONGO, W» 

42. Mparamoto, Ujiji. 

43. Wakiri, ditto. 

44. Mufii, ditto. 

45. Mpepo, ditto. 

46. Kapingii, ditto. 

47. Mashishanga, ditto. 

48. Muheruka, ditto. 

49. Missossi, ditto. 

60. Tufum Byah, ditto. 

51. Majwara (boy), Uganda. 

52. Belali (boy), UerriLa. 

53. Kalulu (boy), Limda. 

54. Abdul Kader (tailor), Malabar. 

These are the men and boys whom I had selected to 
be crowned as Immortals, whom I had cliosen to be my 
companions on the apparently useless mission of seek- 
ing for the lost traveller, David Livingstone. The 
goods with which I had burdened them, consisted of 
1,000 doti, or 4,000 yds. of cloth, six bags of beads, four 
loads of ammunition, one tent, one bed and clothes, one 
box of medicine, sextant and books, two loads of tea, 
coffee, and sugar, one load of flour and candles, one 
load of canned meats, sardines, and miscellaneous 
necessaries, and one load of cooking utensils. 

The men were all in their places except Bombay. 
Bombay had gone ; he could not be found. I despatched 
a man to hunt him up. He was found weeping in the 
arms of his Delilah. 

" Why did you go away, Bombay, when you knew I 
intended to go, and was waiting?" 

" Oh, master, I was saying good-bye to my missis." 

" Oh, indeed ?" 

" Yes, master ; you no do it, when you go away ?" 



814 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

" Silence, sir." 

" Oil ! all right." 

** What is the matter with you, Bombay ?" 

" Oh, nuffin." 

As 1 saw he was in a humor to pick a quarrel with 
me before those Arabs who had congregated outside of 
my tembe to witness my departure, and as I was not 
in a humor to be balked by anything that might turn 
up, the consequence was, that I was obliged to thrash 
Bombay with my dog- whip, an operation which soon 
cooled his hot choler, but brought down on my head a 
loud chorus of remonstrances from my pretended Arab 
friends — *' Now, master, don't, don't — stop it, master : 
the poor man knows better than you what he and you 
may expect on the road you are now taking." 

If anything was better calculated to put me in a rage 
than Bombay's insolence before a crowd it was this 
gratuitous interference with what I considered my own 
especial business ; but I restrained myself, though I 
told them, in a loud voice, that I did not choose to be 
interfered with, unless they wished to quarrel with me. 

" No, no, bana " they all exclaimed ; " we do not 
wish to quarrel with you. In the name of God ! go on 
your way in peace." 

" Fare you well, then," said L shaking hands with 
them. 

" Farewell, master, farewell. We wish you, we are 
sure, all success, and God be with you, and guide you !" 

'^ March!" 

A parting salute was fired ; the flags were raised up 
by the guides, each pagazi rushed for his load, and in a 
short time, with songs and shouts, the head of the Expe- 
dition had filed round the western end of my tembe 
along the road to Ugunda. 



Sept. 1871.] TO MRERA, UKONONQO. 815 

" Now, Mr. Shaw, I am waiting, sir. Mount your 
donkey, if you cannot walk." 

" Please, Mr. Stanley, I am afraid I cannot go.'* 

*^Why?" 

*' I don't know, I am sure. I feel very weak." 

** So am I weak. It was but late last night, as you 
know, tbat the fever left me. Don't back out, man, 
before these Arabs ; remember you are a white man. 
Here, Selim, Mabruki, Bombay, help Mr. Shaw on his 
donkey, and walk by him." 

" Oh, bana, bana," said the Arabs, " don't take him. 
Do you not see he is sick ?" 

" You keep away ; nothing will prevent me from 
taking him. He shall go." 

*' Gro on, Bombay." 

The last of my party had gone. The tembe, so lately 
a busy scene, had already assumed a naked, desolate 
appearance. I turned towards the Arabs, lifted my hat, 
and said again, " Farewell," then foced about for the 
south, followed by my four young gun-bearers, Selim, 
Kalulu, Majwara, and Belali. 

Before we had gone five hundred yards the wild 
Kinyamwezi donkey, probed behind by sly Mabruki, 
lifted up his heels, and John Shaw, never a very good 
rider, measured his length on the ground near a thorn- 
bush. Shaw screamed, and we all ran up to assist 
him. 

" What is it, my dear fellow ?" I asked. " Are you 
hurt ?" 

" Oh dear, oh dear ! Let me go back, please, Mr. 
Stanley." 

** Why ? Because you have had a fall from a donkey ? 
Come, pluck up courage, man. I should be so sorry to 
have to say you backed out. In four or five days you 



310 now I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, 

will be laughing at this little mishap. Mostly all pec pie 
feel a little downhearted when they leave a pleasant 
place. Get on your donkey again, old fellow. Say 
you will go — that's the ticket." 

We assist,ed him once more ; but I was all the time 
wondering, nevertheless, if it were not much better to 
send him back, rather than carry an unwilling man 
almost by force with me over the hundreds of miles that 
must lie between me and Ujiji. What if he died on the 
road ! Perhaps he really is sick ! No, he is not — he 
is only pretending ! But I confess that, had I been 
assured that I would not be laughed at by the Arabs, I 
would have sent him back there and then. 

After half an hour's march the scenery became more 
animated. Shaw began to be amused. Bombay had 
forgotten our quarrel, and assured me, if I could pass 
Mirambo's country, I should " catch the Tanganika ;" 
Mabruki Speke believed we should. Selim was glad to 
leave Unyanyembe, wlr^.re he had suffered so much 
from fever ; and there was a something in the bold 
aspect of the hills which cropped upward above fair 
valleys, that enlivened and encouraged me to proceed. 

In an hour and a half, we arrived at our camp in the 
Kinyamwezi village of Mkwenkwe, the birthplace of our 
famous chanter Maganga. 

My tent was pitched, the goods were stored in one of 
the tembes; but one-half the men had returned to Kwi- 
hara, to take one more embrace of their wives and 
concubines. 

Towards night I was attacked once again with the 
intermittent fever. Before morning it had departed, 
leaving me terribly prostrated with weakness. I had 
heard the men conversing with each other over their 
rump-fires upon the probable prospects of the next day 



Sept. 1871.] TO MRERA, UKONONGO. 317 

It was a question with them whether I should continue 
the march. Mostly all were of the opinion that, since the 
master was sick, there would be no march. A super- 
lative obstinacy, however, impelled me on, merely to 
spite their supine souls; but when I sallied out of my 
tent to call them to get ready, I found that at least 
twenty were missing ; and Livingstone's letter-carrier, 
"Kaif-Halek" — or, How-do-ye-do ? — had not arrived 
with Dr. Livingstone's letter-bag. 

Selecting twenty of the strongest and faithfulest 
men, 1 despatched them back to Unyanyembe in search 
of the missing men ; and Selim was sent to Sheikh bin 
Nasib to borrow, or buy, a long slave-chain. 

Towards niglit my twenty detectives returned with 
nine of the missing men. The Wajiji had deserted in 
a body, and they could not be found. Selim also re- 
turned with a strong chain, capable of imprisoning 
within tlie collars attached to it, at least ten men. Kaif- 
Halek also appeared w4th the letter-bag which he was 
to convey to Livingstone under my escort. The men 
were then addressed, and the slave-chain exhibited to 
them. I told them that I was the first white man who 
had taken a slave-chain with him on his travels ; but, 
as they were all so frightened of accompanying me, I 
was obliged to make use of it, as it was the only means 
of keeping them together. The good need never fear 
being chained by me — only the deserters, the thieves, 
who received their hire and presents, guns and ammu- 
nition, and then ran away. I would not put any one 
this time in chains ; but whoever deserted after this 
day I should halt, and not continue the march till I 
found him, after which he should march toUjiji with the 
slave-chain round his neck. *' Do you hear ?" — " Yes," 
was the answer. " Do you understand ?" — '^ Yes.'* 



U8 now I FOUND LIVINQSTOXE. 

We broke ii]:> camp at 6 p.m., and took the road for 
Enesuka, at wliicli place we arrived at 8 p.m. 

When we were about commencing tlie march the 
next morning, it was discovered that two more had 
deserted. Baraka and Bombay were at once despatched 
to Unyanyembe to bring back the two missing men 
— Asmani and Kingaru, with orders not to return with- 
out them. This was the third time that the latter had 
deserted, as the reader may remember. While the 
pursuit was being effected we halted at the village of 
Inesuka, more for the sake of Shaw, than any one else. 

In the evening the incorrigible deserters were brought 
back, and, as I had threatened, were well flogged and 
chained, to secure them against further temptation. 
Bombay and Baraka had a picturesque story to relate 
of the capture ; and, as I was in an exceedingly good 
humor, their services were rewarded with a fine cloth 
each. 

On the following morning another carrier had ab- 
sconded, taking with him his hire of fifteen new cloths 
and a gun ; but to halt anywhere near Unyanyembe 
any longer was a danger that could be avoided only by 
travelling without stoppages towards the southern 
jungle-lands. It will be remembered I had in my train 
the redoubted Abdul Kader, the tailor, he who had 
started from Bagamoyo with such bright anticipations 
of the wealth of ivory to be obtained in the great in- 
terior of Africa. On this morning, daunted by the 
reports of the dangers ahead, Abdul Kader craved to be 
discharged. He vowed lie was sick, and unable to 
proceed any further. As I was pretty well tired of 
him, I paid him off in cloth, and permitted him to go. 

About half way to Kasegera Mabruk Saleem was 
suddenly taker) sick witli vomiting, looseness, aod 



Sept. 1871.] TO MR EL' A, UKONONGO, 819 

constant discliarge of worms. I treated him with a 
grain of calomel, and a couple of ounces of brandy. 
As he was unable to walk, I furnished him with a 
donkey. Another man named Zaidi was ill with a 
rheumatic attack ; and Shaw tumbled twice off the 
animal he was riding, and required an infinite amount 
of coaxing to mount again. Yerily, my Expedition was 
pursued by adverse fortunes, and it seemed as if the 
Fates had determined upon our return. It really 
appeared as if everything was going to wreck and 
ruin. If I were only fifteen days from Unyanyembe, 
thought I, I should be saved. 

Kasegera was a scene of rejoicing the afternoon and 
evening of our arrival. Absentees had just returned 
from the coast, and the youths were brave in their 
gaudy bedizenment, their new barsatis, their !^oharis, 
and long cloths of bright new kaniki, with which they 
had adorned themselves behind some bush before they 
had suddenly appeared dressed in all this finery. The 
women '' Hi-hi'ed " like maenads, and the '' Lu-lu- 
lu'ing " was loud, frequent, and fervent the whole of that 
afternoon. Sylph-like damsels looked up to the youth- 
ful heroes with intensest admiration on their features ; 
old w^omen coddled and fondled them ; staff-using, 
stooping-backed patriarchs blessed them. This is fame 
in Unyamwezi. All the fortunate youths had to use 
their tongues until the wee hours of next morning had 
arrived, relating all the wonders they had seen near the 
Great Sea, and in the '^Unguja," the island of Zan- 
zibar ; of how they saw great white men's ships, and 
numbers of white men, of their perils and trials during 
their journey through the land of the fierce Wagogo, 
and divers other facts, with which the reader and 1 
are by this time well acquainted. 



820 EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

On the 24th we struck camp, and marched through 
a forest of imbiti wood in a S.S.W. direction, and in 
about three hours came to Kigandu. 

On arriving before this village, which is governed 
by a daughter of Mkasiwa, we were informed we 
could not enter unless we paid toll. As we would not 
pay toll, we were compelled to camp in a ruined, rat- 
infested boma, situated a mile to the left of Kigandu, 
being well scolded by the cowardly natives for deserting 
Mkasiwa in his hour of extremity. We were accused 
of running away from the war. 

Almost on the threshold of our camp Shaw, in 
endeavouring to dismount, lost his stirrups, and fell 
prone on his face. This little by-play of Mr. Shaw's was 
getting too frequent. So, as the men rushed to assist 
him, I ordered them to leave him alone. The foolish 
fellow actually laid on the ground in the hot sun a full 
hour ; and when I coldly asked him, if he did not feel 
rather uncomfortable, he sat up, and wept like a child. 

" Do you wish to go back, Mr. Shaw ?" 

" If you please. I do not believe I can go any 
farther ; and if you would only be kind enough, I 
should like to return very much." 

" Well, Mr. Shaw, I have come to the conclusion 
that it is best you should return. My patience is worn 
out. I have endeavoured faithfully to lift you above 
these petty miseries which you nourish so devotedly. 
You are simply suffering from hypochondria. You 
imagine yourself sick, and nothing, evidently, will 
persuade you that you are not. Mark my words 
— to return to Unyanyembe, is to die! Should }ou 
happen to fall sick in Kwihara who knows how 
to administer medicine to you? Supposing you are 
delirious, how can any of my soldiers know what yoii 



Skpt. 1871.] TO MRERA, UKONONOO. 321 

want, or what is beneficial and necessary for you ? 
Once again, I repeat, if you return, you dik !" 

'' Ah, dear me ; I wish I had never ventured to 
come ! I thought life in Africa was so different from 
this. I would rather go back if you will permit me." 

The next day was a halt, and arrangements were 
made for the transportation of Shaw back to Kwihara 
A strong litter was made, and four stout pagazis were 
hired at Kigandu to carry him. Bread was bakea, 
a canteen was filled with cold tea, and a leg of a kid 
was roasted for his sustenance while on the road. 

The night before we parted we spent together. 
Shaw played some tunes on an accordion wliich I had 
purchased fur him at Zanzibar; but, though it was 
only a miserable teii-dolUir ailair, I thought the homely 
tunes evoked from the instrument that night were 
divine melodies. The last tune played before retiring 
was "Home, sweet Home ;" and I fancy that before 
it ended we had mutually softened towards each 
other. 

The morning of the 27th we were all up early. 
There was considerable vis in our movements. A 
long, long march lay before us that day ; but then I 
was to leave behind all the sick and ailing. Only 
those who were healthy, and could march fast and 
long, were to accompany me Mabruk Saleem I left 
in charge of a native doctoi-, who was to medicate him 
for a gift of cloth which I gave him in advance. 

The horn sounded to get ready. Shaw was lifted 
in his litter on the shoulders of his carriers. My men 
formed two ranks ; the flags were lifted ; and betw een 
these two living rows, and under those bright streamers, 
which w^ere to float over the waters of the Tanganika 
before he should see them again, Shaw was borne away 

Y 



322 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

towards the nortli ; while we filed off to the south, with 
quicker and more elastic steps, as if we felt au incubus 
had been taken from us. 

We ascended a ridge bristling with syenite boulders 
of massive size, appearing above a forest of dwarf trees. 
The view which we saw was similar to that we had 
often seen elsewhere. An illimitable forest stretching 
in grand waves far beyond the ken of vision — ridges, 
forest-clad, rising gently one above another until they 
receded in the dim purple-blue distance — with a warm 
haze floating above them, which, though clear enough 
in our neighbourhood, became impenetrably blue in the 
far distance. Woods, woods, woods, leafy branches, 
foliaged globes, or parachutes, green, brown, or sere in 
color, forests one above another, rising, falling, and 
receding — a very leafy ocean. The hoi'izon, at all 
points, presents the same view ; there may be an in- 
distinct outline of a hill far away, or here and there a 
tall tree higher than the rest, conspicuous in its outlines 
against the translucent sky — with this exceptiou it is 
the same — the same clear sky dropping into the depths 
of the forest, the same outlines, the same forest, the 
same horizon, day after day, week after week ; we hurry 
to the summit of a ridge, expectant of a change, but 
the wearied eyes, after wandering over the vast expanse, 
return to the immediate surroundings, satiated with 
the ever-sameness of such scenes. Carlyle, somewhere 
in his writings, says, that though the Vatican is great, 
it is but the chip of an eggshell compared to the star- 
fretttd dome where Arcturus and Orion glance for 
ever ; and I say that, thougli the grove of Centi'al Park, 
New York, is giand compared to the thin groves seen 
in other great cities, that, though the Windsor and the 
New Forests may be very fine and noble in England, 



Sept. 1871.] TO MRERA, UKONONGO. 32« 

vet they are but faggots of sticks compared to these 
eternal forests of Unjamwezi. 

We marched three hours and then halted for refresh- 
ments. I perceived that the people were very tired, 
not yet inured to a series of long marches, or rather, 
not in proper trim for earnest, hard work after our long 
rest in Kwihara. When we resumed our march again 
there were several manifestations of bad temper and 
weariness. But a few good-natured remarks about 
their laziness put them on their mettle, and we reached 
Ugunda at 2 p.m. after another four hours' spurt. 

Ugunda is a very large village in the district of 
Ugunda, which adjoins the southern frontier of Unya- 
nyembe. The village probably numbers four hundred 
families, or two thousand souls. It is well protected by 
a tall and strong palisade of three-inch timber. Stages 
have been erected at intervals above the palisades with 
miniature embrasures in the timber, for the muskets of 
the sharpshooters, who take refuge within these box- 
like stages to pick out the chiefs of an attacking force. 
An inner ditch, with the sand or soil thrown up three 
or four feet high against the palings, serves as pro- 
tection for the main body of the defenders, who kneel 
in the ditch, and are thus enabled to withstand a 
very large force. For a mile or two outside the village 
all obstructions are cleared, and the besieged are thus 
warned by sharp-eyed watchers to be prepared for the 
defence before the enemy approaches within musket 
range. Mirambo withdrew his force of robbers from 
before this strongly-defended village after two or three 
ineffectual attempts to storm it, and the Wagunda have 
been congratulating themselves ever since, upon having 
driven away the boldest marauder that Unyamwezi has 
seen for generations. 



324 EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

The Waguuda have about three thousand square 
acres under cultivation around their principal village, 
and this area suffices to produce sufficient grain not 
only for their own consumption, but also for the 
many caravans which pass by this way for Ufipa and 
Marungu, 

However brave the Wagunda may be within the 
strong enclosure with which they have surrounded 
their principal village, they are not exempt from the 
feeling of insecurity which fills the soul of a Mnyam- 
wezi during war-time. At this place the caravans are 
accustomed to recruit their numbers from the swarms 
of pagazis wdio volunteer to accompany them to the 
distant ivory regions south ; but I could not induce a 
soul to follow me, so great was their fear of Mirarabo 
and his Ruga-Ruga. They were also full of rumors of 
wars ahead. It was asserted that Mbogo was advancing 
towards Ugunda with a thousand Wakonongo, that 
the Wazavira had attacked a caravan four months 
previously, that Simba was scouring the country with a 
band of ferocious mercenaries, and much more of the 
same nature and to the same intent. 

On the 28th we arrived at a small snug village 
embosomed within the forest called Benta, three hours 
and a quarter from Ugunda. The road led through the 
cornfields of the Wagunda, and then entered the clear- 
ings around the villages of Kisari, within one of which 
we found the proprietor of a caravan who was drumming 
up carriers for Ufipa. He had been halted here two 
montlis, and he made strenuous exertions to induce my 
men to join his caravan, a proceeding that did not tend 
to promote harmony between us. A few days after- 
wards 1 found, on my return, that he had given up the 
idea of proceeding south. Leaving Kisari, we marched 



Sept. 1871.] TO M It ERA, UKONONQO, 325 

through a thin jungle of black jack, over sun-cracked 
ground with here and there a dried-up pool, the bottom 
of which was well tramped by elephant and rhinoceros. 
Buffalo and zebra tracks were now frequent, and we 
were buoyed up with the hope that before long we 
should meet game. 

Benta was well supplied with Indian corn and a 
grain which the natives called choroko, which I take to 
be vetches. I purchased a large supply of choroko for 
my own personal use, as I found it to be a most 
healthy food. The corn was stored on the flat roofs of 
the tembes in huge boxes made out of the bark of the 
mtundu-tree. The largest box I have ever seen in Africa 
was seen here. It might be taken for a Titan's hat-box ; 
it was seven feet in diameter, and ten feet in heiglit. 

On the 29th, after travelling in a S.W. by S. direc- 
tion, we reached Kikuru. The march lasted for five 
hours over sun-cracked plains, growing the black jack, 
and ebony, and dwarf shrubs, above which numerous 
ant-hills of light chalky-colored earth appeared like 
sand dunes. 

The mukunguru, a Kisawahili term for fever, is fre- 
quent in this region of extensive forests and flat plains, 
owing to the imperfect drainage provided by nature for 
them. In the dry season there is nothing very offensive 
in the view of the country. The burnt grass gives rather 
a sombre aspect to the country, covered with the hard- 
baked tracks of animals which haunt these plains during 
the latter part of the rainy season. In the forest 
numbers of trees lie about in the last stages of decny, 
and working away with might and main on the pro- 
strate trunks may be seen numberless insects of various 
species. Impalpably, however, the poison of the dead 
and decaying vegetation is inhaled into the system 



826 BOW 1 FOUSn LIVINGSTONE. 

with a result sometimes as fiital as that which is said tc 
arise from tlie vicinity of the Upas-tree. 

The first evil results experienced from the presence 
of malaria are confined bowels and an oppressive languor, 
excessive drowsiness, and a constant disposition to 
yawn. The tongue assumes a yellowish, sickly hue, 
colored almost to blackness ; even the teeth become 
yellow, and are coated with an offensive matter. The 
eyes of the patient sparkle lustrously, and become 
suffused with water. These are sure symptoms of the 
incipient fever whicli shortly will rage through the 
system, laying the sufferer prostrate and quivering with 
agony. 

Sometimes this fever is preceded by a violent shaking 
fit, during which period blankets may be heaped on the 
patient's form, with but little amelioration of the deadly 
chill he feels. It is then succeeded by an unusually 
severe headache, with excessive pains about the loins 
and spinal column, which presently will spread over 
tlie shoulder-blades, and, running up the neck, find 
a final lodgment in the back and front of the head. 
Usually, however, the fever is not preceded by a chill, 
but after languor and torpitude have seized him, with 
excessive heat and throbbing temples, the loin and spinal 
column aches, and raging thirst soon possesses him. 
The brain becomes crowded with strange fancies, which 
sometimes assume most hideous shapes. Before the 
darkened vision of the suffering man, float in a seeth- 
ing atmosphere, figures of created and uncreated 
reptiles, which are metamorphosed every instant into 
stranger shapes and designs, growing every moment 
more confused, more complicated, more hideous and 
terrible. Unable to bear longer the distracting scene, 
he makes an effort and opens his eyes, and dissolves the 



Oct. 1871.] TO MRERA, UKONONOO, 327 

delirious dream, only, however, to glide again uncon- 
sciously into another dream-land where anotlier unreal 
inferno is dioraraicallj revealed, and new agonies suf- 
fered. Oh! the many many hours that I liave groaned 
under the terrible incubi which the fits of real 
delirium evoke. Oh ! the racking anguish of body 
that a traveller in Africa must undergo ! Oh ! the 
spite, the fretfulness, the vexation which the horrible 
phantasmagoria of diabolisms iiiduce ! The utmost pa- 
tience fails to appease, the most industrious attendance 
fails to gratify, the deepest humility displeases. During 
these terrible transitions, which induce fierce distraction, 
Job himself would become irritable, insanely furious, 
and choleric. A man in such a state regards himself 
as the focus of all miseries. When recovered, he feels 
chastened, becomes urbane and ludicrously amiable, he 
conjures up fictitious delights from all things which, but 
yesterday, possessed for him such awful portentous 
aspects. His men he regards with love and friendship ; 
whatever is trite he views with ecstasy. Nature 
appears charming ; in the dead woods and monotonous 
forest his mind becomes overwhelmed with delight. I 
speak for myself, as a careful analysation of the attack, 
in all its severe, plaintive, and silly phases, appeared 
to me. I used to amuse myself with taking notes of the 
humorous and the terrible, the fantastic aud exagge- 
rated pictures that were presented to me — even while 
suffering the paroxysms induced by fever. 

We arrived at a large pool, known as the Ziwani, 
after a four hours' march in a S.S.W. direction, the 
1st of October. We discovered an old half-burnt 
khambi, shehered by a magnificent mkuyu (sycamore), 
the giant of the forests of Unyamwezi, which after an 
hour we transformed into a splendid camp. 



328 



HOW 1 FOUNT) LIVINGSTONE. 



If T recollect rightly, the stem of the tree measnred 
thirty-eight feet in circumference. It is the finest tree 
of its kind I have seen in Africa, A regiment might 
with perfect ease have reposed under this enormons 
dome of foliage during a noon halt. The diameter of 
the shadow it cast on the ground was one hundred 
and twenty feet. The healthful vigor that I wns 
enjoying about this time enabled me to regard my 







GIGANTIC SYCAMORK, AND CAMP UliXKATH IT, 



surroundings admiringly. A feeling of comfort and 
j)erfect contentment took possession of me, such as I 
knew not while fretting at Unyanyembe, wearing my 
life away in inactivity. I talked with my pco 'e as to 
my friends and equals. We argued with each other 
about our prospects in quite a companionable, sociable 
vein. 

When daylight was dying, and the sun was sinking 
down rapidly over the western horizon, vividly paint- 



Oct. 1871.] TO MBEBA, UKONONGO. 329 

ing the sky with the colors of gold and silver, saffron, 
and opal, when its rays and gorgeous tints were re- 
flected upon the tops of the everlasting forest, with the 
quiet and holy calm of heaven resting upon all around, 
and infusing even into the untutored minds of those 
about me, the exquisite enjoyments of such a life as we 
were now leading in the depths of a great expanse of 
forest, the only and sole human occupants of it — this 
was the time, after our day's work was ended, and the 
camp was in a state of perfect security, when we all 
would produce our pipes, and could best enjoy the 
labors which we had performed, and the contentment 
which follows a work well done. 

Outside nothing is heard beyond the cry of a stray 
florican, or guinea-fowl, which has lost her mate, or 
the hoarse croaking of the frogs in the pool hard 
by, or the song of the crickets which seems to lull the 
day to rest ; inside our camp are heard the gurgles of 
the gourd pipes as the men inhale the blue ether, which 
I also love. I am contented and happy, stretched on 
my caipet under the dome of living foliage, smoking 
my short meerschaum, indulging in thoughts — despite 
the beauty of the still grey light of the sky, and of the 
air of seienity which prevails around — of home and 
friends in distant America, and these thoughts soon 
change to my work — yet incomplete ; to the man who 
to me is yet a myth, who, for all 1 know, may be dead, 
or may be near or far from me tramping through just 
such '1 forewtj whose tops I see bound tl^e view outside 
my camp. We are both on the same soil, perhaps, in 
the same forest — who knows ? — yet is he to me so far 
remov«?d that he might as well be in his own little 
cottage of Uiva. Though I am even now ignorant of 
his very existence, yet I feel a certain complacency, a 



330 now I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

certain satisfaction which would be difficult to describe 
Why is man so feeble, and weak, that he must tramp^ 
tramp hundreds of miles to satisfy the doubts his 
impatient and uncurbed mind feels? Why cannot my 
form accompany the bold flights of my mind and 
s^atisfy the craving I feel to resolve the vexed question 
that ever rises to my lips — " Is he alive ?'* ! soul 
of mine, be patient, thou hast a felicitous tranquillity, 
which other men might envy thee! Sufficient for the 
hour is the consciousness thou hast that thy mission is 
a holy one ! Onward, and be hopeful ! 

Monday, +be 2nd :)f October, found us traversing the 
forest and |jiain that extends from the Ziwani to Man- 
yara, .^hich occupied us six and a half hours. The sun 
was intensely hot ; but the mtundu and miombo trees 
grew at intervals, just enough to admit free growth to 
each tree, while the blended foliage formed a grateful 
shade. The path was clear and easy, the stamped and 
firm red soil offered no obstructions. The only provo- 
cation we suffered was from the attacks of the tsetse, or 
panga (sword) fly, which swarmed here. We knew we 
were approaching an extensive habitat of game, and we 
were constantly on the alert for any specimens that 
might be inhabiting these forests. 

While we were striding onward, at the rate of nearly 
three miles an hour, the caravan I perceived sheered off 
from the road, resuming it about fifty yards ahead of 
something on the road, to which the attention of the 
men was directed. On coming up, I found the object to 
be the dead body of a man, who had fallen a victim to 
that fearful scourge of Africa, the small-pox. He was 
one of Oseto's gang of marauders, or guerillas, in the 
service of Mkasiwa of Unyanyembe, who were hunting 
these forests for the guerillas of Mirambo. They had 



Or. 1871.] TO MRERA, UKONONOO. 331 

been returning from Ukonongo from a raid iliey had 
instituted against the Sultan of Mbogi), and they had 
left their comrade to perish in the road. He had appa- 
rently been only one day dead. 

Apropos of this, it was a frequent thing with us to 
discover a skeleton or a skull on the roadside. Almost 
every day we saw one, sometimes two, of these relics of 
dead, and forgotten humanity. 

Shortly after this we emerged from the forest, and 
entered a mbuga, or plain, in which we saw a couple of 
giraffes, whose long necks were seen towering above a 
bush they had been nibbling at. This sight was greeted 
with a shout ; for we now knew we had entered the 
game country, and that near the Gombe creek, or river, 
where we intended to halt, we should see plenty of 
these animals. 

A walk of three hours over this hot plain brought 
us to the cultivated fields of Manyara. Arriving before 
the village-gate, we were forbidden to enter, as the 
country was throughout in a state of war, and it 
behoved them to be very careful of admitting any party, 
lest the villagers might be compromised. We were, 
however, directed to a khambi to the right of tlie vil- 
lage, near some pools of clear water, where we disco- 
vered some half dozen ruined huts, which looked very 
uncomfortable to tired people. 

After we had built our camp, the kirangozi was fur-« 
nished with some cloths to purchase food from the village 
for the transit of a wilderness in front of us, which was 
said to extend nine marches, or 135 miles. He was 
informed that the Mtemi had strictly prohibited his 
people from selling any grain whatever. 

This evidently was a case wherein the exercise of a 
little diplomacy could only be effective ; because it 



532 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, 

would detain us several days here, if we were compelled 
to send men back to Kikuru for provisions. Opening 
a bale of choice goods, I selected two royal cloths, and 
told Bombay to carry them to him, with the compli- 
ments and friendship of the white man. The Sultan 
sulkily refused them, and bade him return to the white 
man and tell him not to bother him. Entreaties were 
of no avail, he would not relent ; and the men, in ex- 
ceedingly bad temper, and hungry, were obliged to go 
to bed supperless. The words of Njara, a slave-trader, 
and parasite of the great Sheikh bin Nasib, recurred to 
me. " Ah, master, master, you will find the people 
will be too much for you, and that you will have to 
return. The Wa-manyara are bad, the Wakonongo are 
very bad, the Wazavira are the worst of all. You have 
come to this country at a bad time. It is war every- 
where." And, indeed, judging from the tenor of the 
conversations around our camp-fires, it seemed but too 
evident. There was every prospect of a general decamp 
of all my people. However, I told them not to be 
discouraged ; that I would get food for them in the 
morning. 

The bale of choice cloths was opened again next 
morning, and four royal cloths were this time selected, 
and two dotis of Merikani, and Bombay was again 
despatched, burdened with compliments, and polite 
words. It was necessary to be very politic with a 
man who was so surly, and too powerful to make an 
enemv of. What if he marie ud his mind to imitate 
the redoubtable Mirambo, King of Uyoweh ! The effect 
of my munificent liberality was soon seen in the 
abundance of provender which came to my camp. 
Before an hour went by, there came boxes full of cho- 
roko, beans, rice, matama or donna, and Indian corn, 



Oct. 1871.] TO MRERA, UKONONGO. 333 

carried on tlie heads of a dozen villagers, and shortly 
aftei" the Mtemi himself came, followed by about thirty 
musketeers and twenty spearmen, to visit the first 
white man ever seen on this road. Behind these 
warriors came a liberal gift, fully equal in value 
to that sent to him, of sevend large gourds of honey, 
fowls, goats, and enough vetches and beans to supply 
my men with four days' food. 

I met the chief at the gate of my camp, and bowing 
profoundly, invited l]im to my tent, which I had arranged 
as well as my circumstances would permit, for this 
reception. My Persian carpet and bear skin were 
spread out, and a broad piece of bran-new crimson 
cloth covered my kitanda^ or bedstead. 

The chief, a tall robust man, and his chieftains, were 
invited to seat themselves. They cast a look of such 
gratified surprise at myself, at my face, my clothes, and 
guns, as is almost impossible to describe. They looked at 
me intently for a few seconds, and then at each other, 
which ended in an uncontrollable burst of laughter, and 
repeated snappings of the fingers. They spoke the 
Kinyamwezi larjguage, and my interpreter Maganga 
was requested to inform the chief of the great delight 
I felt in seeing them. After a short period expended in 
interchanging compliments, and a competitive excellence 
at laughing at one anotlier, their chief desired me to 
show him my guns. The " sixteen -shqoter," the 
Winchester rifle, elicited a thousand flattering observa- 
tions from the excited man ; and the tiny deadly 
revolvers, whose beauty and workmanship they thought 
were siqoerhuman, evoked such gratified eloquence that I 
was fain to try something else. The double-barreled 
guns fired with heavy charges of powder, caused them 
to jump up in affected alarm, and then to subside 



334 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

to their seats convulsed with laughter. As the 
enthusiasm of my guests increased, they seized each 
other's index fingers, screwed them, and pulled at them 
until I feared they would end in their dislocation. 
After liaviug explained to them the difference between 
white men and Arabs, I pulled out my medicine chest, 
which evoked another burst of rapturous sighs at 
the cunuing neatness of the array of vials. He asked 
what they meant. 

'^ Dowa," I rej^lied sententiously, a word which may 
be interpreted — medicine. 

" Oh-h, oh-h," they murmured admiringly. I suc- 
ceeded, before long, in winning unqualified admiration, 
and my superiority, compared to the best of the Arabs 
they had seeu, was but too evident. *' Dowa, dowa," 
they added. 

" Here," said I, uncorking a vial of medicinal brandy, 
"is the Kisuugu pombe " (white man's beer); 'take 
a spoonful and try it," at the same time Handing it. 

*' Hacht, hacht, oh, hacht ! what ! eh ! what strong 
beer the white men have ! Oh, how my throat 
burns !" 

" Ah, but it is good," said I, " a little of it makes men 
feel strong, and good ; but too much of it makes men 
bad, and they die." 

"Let me have some," said one of the chiefs; ''and 
me/' " and me," " and me," as soon as each had tasted. 

I next produced a bottle of concentrated ammonia, 
which as I explained was for snake bites, and liead- 
aches ; the Sultan immediately complained he had 
a head-ache, and must have a little. Telling him 
to close his eyes, I suddenly uncorked the bottle, and 
presented it to His Majesty's nose. The effect was 
magical, for he fell back as if shot, and such contortions 



Oct. 1871.] TO MRERA, UKONONGO. 335 

as his features underwent are indescribable. His chiefs 
roared with laughter, and clapped their hands, pinched 
each other, snapped their fingers, and committed many 
other ludicrous things. I verily believe if sucli a scene 
were presented on any stage in the world the effect of 
it would be visible instantaneously on the audience ; 
that had they seen it as I saw it, they would have 
laughed themselves to hysteria and madness. Finally 
the kSultan recovered himself, great tears rolling down 
his cheeks, and his features quivering with laughter, 
then he slowly uttered the word " kali," — hot, strong, 
quick, or ardent medicine. He required no more, but 
the other chiefs pushed forward to get one w^ee sniff, 
which they no sooner had, than all went into paroxysms 
of uncontrollable laughter. The entire morning was 
passed in this state visit, to the mutual satisfaction of 
all concerned. '* Oh," said the Sultan at parting, 
*' these white men know everything, the Arabs are dirt 
compaied to them !" 

That night Hamdallah, one of the guides, deserted, 
carrying with him his hire (27 doti), and a gun. It was 
useless to follow him in the morning, as it would have 
detained me many moi-e days than I could afford ; but 
I mentally vowed that Mr. Hamdallah should work out 
those 27 doti of cloths, before I reached the coast. 

Wednesday, October 4th, saw us travelling to the 
Gombe River, which is 4 h. 15 m. march from Manyara. 

We had barely left the waving cornfields of my 
friend Ma-manvara before we came in ^vA\t of a 
herd of noble zebra ; two hours afterwards we had 
entered a grand and noble expanse of park land, 
whose glorious magnificence and vastness of jDrosj^ect, 
with a far-stretching carpet of verdure, darkly flecked 
here and there by miniature clumps of jungle, with 



336 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

spreading trees growing here and there, was certainly 
one of the finest scenes to be seen in Africa. Added 
to which, as I surmounted one of the numerous small 
knolls, I saw herds after herds of buffalo and zebra, 
giraffe and antelope, which sent the blood coursing 
through my veins in the excitement of the moment, a& 
when I first landed on African soil. We crept along 
the plain noiselessly to our camp on the banks of the 
sluggish waters of the Gombe. 

Here at last was the hunter s Paradise I How petty 
and insignificant appeared my hunts after small ante- 
lope and wild boar, what a foolish waste of energies 
those long walks through damp grasses and through 
thorny jungles ! Did I not well remember my first 
bitter experience in African jungles when in the 
maritime region ! But this — where is the nobleman's 
park that can match this scene ? Here is a soft, velvety 
expanse of young grass, grateful shade under those 
spreading clumps ; herds of large and varied game 
browsing within easy rifle range. Surely I must feel 
amply compensated now for the long southern detour I 
have made, when such a prospect as this opens to the 
view ! No thorny jungles and rank smelling swamps 
are here to daunt the hunter, and to sicken his aspira- 
tions after true sport ! No hunter could aspire alter a 
nobler field to display his prowess. 

Having settled the position of the camp, which over- 
looked one of the pools found in the depression of the 
Gombe cieek, I took my double-barreled smooth bore, 
and sauntered off to the park-land. Emerging from 
behind a clump, three fine plump spring-bok w^ere seen 
browsing on the young grass just within one hundred 
yards. 1 knelt down and fired ; one unfortunate ante- 
lope bounded upward instinctively, and fell dead. Its 



Oct. 1871.] TO MRERA, UKONOXGO. 337 

companions sprang higli intc^ the nir, taking leaps aboni 
twelve feet in length, as if they were qnadrnpeds prac- 
tising gymnastics, and away they vanished, rising up 
like India-rubber balls, until a knoll hid them from 
view. My success was hailed with loud shouts by the 
soldiers^ who came running out from the camp as soon 
as they heard the reverberation of the gun, and my 
gun-bearer had his knife at the beast's throat, uttering 
a fervent " Bismillah !" as he almost severed the head 
from the body. 

Hunters were now directed to proceed east and north 
to procure meat, because in each caravan it generally 
happens that there are fundi, whose special trade it is 
to hunt for meat for the camp. Some of these are 
experts in stalking, but often find themselves in 
dangerous positions, owing to the near approach neces- 
sary, before they can lire their most inaccurate weapons 
with any certainty. 

After luncheon, consisting of spring-bok steak, hot 
corn-cake, aiid a cup of delicious Mocha coffee, I strolled 
towards tlie south-west, accompanied by Kalulu and 
Majwara, two boy gun-bearers. The tiny perpusilla 
started up like rabbits from me as I stole along through 
the underbrush ; the honey-bird hopped from tree 
to tree chirping its call, as if it thought I was seeking 
the little sweet treasure, the hiding-place of which it 
only knew; but no! I neither desired perpusilla nor the 
honey. I was on the search for something great this 
day. Keen-eyed fish-eagles and bustards poised on trees 
above the sinuous Gombe thought, and probably with 
good reason, that I was after them ; judging by the 
ready flight with which both species disappeared as 
they sighted my approach. Ah, no ! nothing but 
hartebeest, zebra, giraffe, eland, and buffalo this day ! 



338 now I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

After following the Gombe's course for about a inilcj 
delighting my eyes with long looks at the broad and 
lengthy reaches of water to which I was so long a 
stranger, I came upon a scene which delighted the 
innermost recesses of my soul ; five, six, seven, eight, 
ten zebras switching their beautiful striped bodies, and 
biting one another, within about one hundred and fifty 
yards. The scene was so pretty, so romantic, never did 
I so thoroughly realize that I was in Central Africa. I 
felt momentarily proud that I owned such a vast do- 
main, inhabited with such noble beasts. Here I pos- 
sessed, within reach of a leaden ball, any one I chose of 
the beautiful animals, the pride of the African forests ! 
It was at my option to shoot any of them ! Mine they 
were without money and without price ; yet, knowing 
this, twice I dropped my rifle, loth to wound the royal 
beasts, but — crack ! and a royal one was on his back 
battling the air with his legs. Ah, it was such a pity ! 
but, hasten, draw the keen sharp-edged knife across the 
beautiful stripes which fold around the throat ; and — 
what an ugly gash ! it is done, and I have a superb 
animal at my feet. Hurrah ! I shall taste of Ukonongo 
zebra to-night. 

I thouglit a spring-bok and zebra enough for one 
day's sport, especially after a long march. The Gombe, 
a long stretch of deep water, winding in and out of green 
groves, calm, placid, with lotus leaves lightly resting 
on its surface, all pretty, picturesque, peaceful, as a 
summer's dream, looked very inviting for a bath. I 
sought out the most shady spot under a wide-spreading 
mimosa, from which the ground sloped smooth as a 
lawn, to the still, clear water. I ventured to undress, 
and had already stepped. in to my ancles in the water, 
and had brought my hands together for a glorious dive, 



Oct. 1871.] TO MBEJiA, UKONONGO. 339 

when my attention was attracted by an enormously 
long body which shot into view, occupying the spot 
beneath the surface that I was about to explore by a 
^* header." Great heavens, it was a crocodile ! I sprang 
backward instinctively, and this proved my salvation, 
for the monster turned away with the most disappointed 
look, and I was left to congratulate myself upon my 
narrow escape from his jaws, and to register a vow 
never to be tempted again by the treacherous calm of 
an African river. 

As soon as I had dressed I turned away from the 
now repulsive aspect of the stream. In strolling 
through the jungle, towards my camp, I detected the 
forms of two natives, looking sharply about them, and, 
after bidding my young attendants to preserve perfect 
quiet, I crept on towards them, and, by the aid of a 
thick clump of under-bush, managed to arrive within 
a few feet of the natives undetected. Their mere 
presence in the immense forest, unexplained, was a 
cause of uneasiness in the then disturbed state of the 
country, and my intention was to show myself suddenly 
to them, and note its effect, which, if it betokened any- 
thing hostile to the Expedition, could without difficulty 
be settled at once, with the aid of my double-barreled 
smooth-bore. 

As I arrived on one side of this bush, the two suspi- 
cious-looking natives arrived on the other side, and we 
were separated by only a few feet. I made a bound, 
and we were face to face. The natives cast a glance 
at the sudden figure of a white man, and seemed pe- 
trified for a moment, but then, recovering themselves, 
they shrieked out, ** Bana, bana, you don't know us. 
We are Wakonongo, who came to your camp to accom- 
pany you to Mrera, and we are looking for honey." 



340 now I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

" Oh, to be sure, you are the Wakonougo. Yes — 
Yes. All, it is all right now, I thought jou might be 
Ruga-Ruga." 

So the two parties, instead of being on hostile terms 
with each other, burst out laughing. The Wakonongo 
enjoyed it very much, and laughed heartily as they 
proceeded on their way to searcVi for the wild honey. 
On a piece of bark they carried a little fire with which 
they smoked the bees out from their nest in the great 
mtundu- trees. 

The adventures of the day were over ; the azure of 
the sky had changed to a dead grey ; the moon was 
appearing just over the trees; the water of the Grombe 
was like a silver belt; hoarse frogs bellowed their notes 
loudly by the margin of the creek ; the fish-eagles 
uttered their dirge-like cries as they were perched high 
on the tallest tree ; elands snortsd their warning to the 
herds in the forest; stealthy forms of the carnivora 
stole through the dark woods outside of our camp. 
Within the high inclosure of bush and thorn, which we 
had raised around our camp, all was jollity, laughter, 
and radiant, genial comfort. Around every camp-fire 
dark forms of men were seen squatted : one man gnawed 
at a luscious bone ; another sucked the rich marrow in 
a zebra's leg-bone ; another turned the stick, garnished 
with huge kabobs, to the bright blaze ; another held a 
large rib over a flame ; there were others busy stirring 
industriously great black potfuls of ugali, and watching 
anxiously the meat simmering, and the soup bubbling, 
while the fire-light flickered and danced bravely, and 
cast a bright glow over the naked forms of the men, 
and gave a crimson tinge to the tall tent that rose in 
the centre of the camp, like a temple sacred to some 
mysterious god ; the fires cast their reflections upon tne 



Oct. 18 ri.] TO MRERA, UEONONQO. 341 

massive arms of the trees, as they branched over our 
camp, and, in the dark gloom of their foliage, the most 
fantastic shadows were visible. Altogether it was a 
wild, romantic, and impressive scene. But little recked 
my men for shadows and moonhght, for crimson tints, 
and temple-like tents — they were all busy relating their 
various experiences, and gorging themselves with the 
rich meats our guns had obtained for us. One was 
telling how he had stalked a wild boar, and the furious 
onset the wounded beast made on him, causing him to 
drop his gun, and climb a tree, and the terrible grunt 
of the beast he well remembered, and the whole welkm 
rang with the peals of laughter which his mimic powers 
evoked. Another had shot a buffalo-calf, and another 
had bagged a hartebeest ; the Wakonongo relatec. 
their laughable rencontre with me iu the woods, and 
were lavish in their description of the stores of honey 
to be found in the woods ; and all this time Selim 
and his youthful subs were trying their sharp teeth 
on the meat of a young pig which one of the hunters 
had shot, but which nobody else would eat, because 
of the Mohammedan aversion to pig, which they had 
acquired during their transformation from negro 
savagery to the useful docility of the Zanzibar freed-man. 
We halted the two following days, and made frequent 
raids on the herds of this fine country. The first day I 
was fairly successful again in the sport. I bagged a 
couple of antelopes, a kudu (A, strepsiceros) with fine 
twisting horns, and a pallah-buck {A. rnelampus), a 
reddish -brown animal, standing about three and a half 
feet, with broad posteriors. I might have succeeded in 
getting dozens of animals had I any of those accurate, 
heavy rifles manufactured by Lancaster, O'lxeilly, or 
Blissett, whose every shot tells. But my weapons^ 



842 EOW I FOUKB LIVINOSTONE. 

save my light smooth-bore, were unfit for African game. 
My weapons w^ere more for men. With the Winchester 
rifle, and the Starr's carbine, I was able to hit anything 
within two hundred yards, but the animals, though 
wounded, invariably managed to escape the knife, until 
I was disgusted with the pea-bullets. What is wanted 
for this country is a heavy bore — No. 10 or 12 is the 
real bone-crusher — that will drop every animal shot, 
in its tracks, by which all fatigue and disappointment 
are avoided. Several times during these two days 
was I disappointed after most laborious stalking and 
creeping along the ground. Once I came suddenly 
upon an eland while I had a Winchester rifle in my 
hand — the eland and myself mutually astonished — at not 
more than twenty-five yards apart. I fired at its chest, 
and the bullet, true to its aim, sped far into the internal 
parts, and the blood spouted from the wound : in a few 
minutes he was far away, and I w^as too much disap- 
pointed to follow him. All love of the chase seemed to 
be dying away before these several mishaps. What 
were two antelopes for one day's sport to the thousands 
that browsed over the plain ? 

The animals taken to camp during our three days' 
sport were two buffaloes, two wild boar, three hartebeest, 
one zebra, and one pallah ; besides which, were shot 
eight guinea-fowls, three florican, two fish-eagles, one 
pelican, and one of the men caught a couple of large 
silurus fish. In the meantime the people had cut, sliced, 
and dried this bounteous store of meat for our transit 
through the long wilderness before us. 

Saturday the 7th day of October, we broke up camp, 
to the great regret of the meat-loving, gormandizing 
Wangwana. They delegated Bombay early in the 
morning to speak to me, and entreat of me to stop 



Oct. 1871.] TO MREBA, UKONONOO. 343 

one day longer. It was ever the case ; they had always 
an unconquerable aversion to work, when in presence of 
meat. Bombay was well scolded for bearing any such 
request to me after two days' rest, during which time 
they had been filled to repletion of meat. And Bombay 
was by no means in the best of humor, flesh-pots full 
of meat were more to his taste than a constant tramping, 
and its consequent fatigues. I saw his face settle into 
sulky ugliness, and his great nether lip hanging down 
limp, which meant as if expressed in so many words, 
'' Well, get them to move yourself, you wiclced hard 
man ! I shall not help you." 

An ominous silence followed my order to the kiran- 
gozi to sound the horn, and the usual singing and 
chanting were not heard. The men turned sullenly 
to their bales, and Asmani, the gigantic guide, our fundi, 
was heard grumblingly to say he was sorry he had en- 
gaged to guide me to the Tanganika. However, they 
started, though reluctantly. I stayed behind with my 
gunbearers, to drive the stragglers on. In about half an 
hour I sighted the caravan at a dead stop, with the 
bales thrown on the ground, and the men standing in 
groups conversing angrily and excitedly. 

Taking my double-barrel gun from Selim's shoulder, 
I selected a dozen charges of buck-shot, and slipping 
two of them into the barrels, and adjusting my revolvers 
in order for handy work, I walked on towards them. 
I noticed that the men seized their guns, as I advanced. 
When within thirty yards of the groups, I discovered 
the heads of two men appear above an anthill on niy 
left, with the barrels of their guns carelessly pointed 
toward the road. 

I halted, threw the barrel of my gun into the hollow 
of the left hand, and then, taking a deliberate aim at 



344 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

them, threatened to blow their heads off if thej 
did not come forward to talk to me. These two men 
were, gigantic Asmani and his sworn companion 
Mabniki, the guides of Sheikh bin Nasib. As it was 
dangerous not to comply with such an order, they 
presently came, but, keeping my eye on Asmani, I saw 
him move his fingers to the trigger of his gun, and 
bring his gun to a "ready." Again I lifted my gun, 
and threatened him with instant death, if he did not 
drop his gun. 

Asmani came on in a sidelong way with a smirking 
smile on his face, but in his eyes shone the lurid light 
of murder, as plainly as ever it shone in a villain's 
eyes. Mabruki sneaked to my rear, deliberately 
putting powder in the pan of his musket, but sweeping 
the gun sharply round, I planted the muzzle of it at 
about two feet from his wicked-looking face, and 
ordered him to drop his gun instantly. He let it fall 
from his hand quickly, and giving him a vigorous 
poke in the breast with my gun, which sent him 
reeling away a few feet from me, I faced round to 
Asmani, and ordered him to put his gun down, accom- 
panying it with a nervous movement of my gun, 
pressing gently on the trigger at the same time. Never 
was a man nearer his death than was Asmani during 
those few moments. I was reluctant to shed his blood, 
and I was willing to try all possible means to avoid 
doing so ; but if I did not succeed in cowing this 
ruffian, authority was at an end. The truth was, they 
feared to proceed further on the road, and the only 
possible way of inducing them to move was by an 
overpowering force, and exercise of my power and 
will in this instance, even though he might pay the 
penalty of his disobedience with death. As I \^^as 



Oct. 1871.] TO MRERA, UKONONGO. 34c 

beginning to feel that Asmani had passed his last 
moment on earth, as he was Hfting his gun to his 
shoulder, a form came up from beliind him, and swept 
his gun aside with an impatient, nervous movement, and 
I heard Mabruki Speke say in horror-struck accents : 

" Man, how dare you point your gun at the master?" 
Mabruki then threw himself at my feet, and en- 
deavoured to kiss them and entreated me not to punish 
him. " It was all over now," he said ; " there would be 
no more quarrehng, they would all go to the Tanga- 
nika, without any more noise; and Inslmlhih!" said 
he, ''we shall find the old Musungu at Ujiji." 

" Speak, men, freedmen, shall we not ? — shall we not 
go to the Tanganika without any more trouble ? tell 
the master with one voice." 

" Ay Wallah ! Ay Wallah ! Bana yango ! Hamuna 
mannenc mgini ! " which literally translated means, 
'' Yes by God ! Yes by God ! my master ! There are no 
other words," said each man loudly. 

" Ask the master's pardon, man, or go thy way," 
said Mabruki peremptorily, to Asmani : which Asmani 
did^ to the gratification of us all. 

It remained for me only to extend a general pardon 
to all, except to Bombay and Anibari, the instigators 
of the mutiny, which was now happily quelled. For 
Bombay could have by a word, as my captain, nipped 
all manifestation of bad temper at the outset, had he 
been so disposed. But no, Bombay was more averse 
to marching than the cowardliest of his fellows, not 
because he was cowardly, but because he loved in- 
dolence, and made a god of his belly. So snatching up 
a spear, I laid its staff vigorously on his shoulders, and 
then sprang upon Ambari, whose mocking face soon 
underwent a remarkable transformation, and then 



346 EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

clapped them both in chains, with a threat that they 
would be kept chained until they knew how to ask my 
pardon ; and Asmani and Mabruki were fold to be 
cautious not to exhibit their ugly tempers any more, 
lest they might taste the death they had fortunately 
escaped. 

Again the word was given to march, and each man, 
with astonishing alacrity, seized his load, and filed off 
quickly out of sight, Bombay and Ambari in the rear 
in chains, with Kingaru and Asmani^ the deserters, 
weighted with the heaviest loads. 

We had barely travelled an hour from the Gombe 
before Bombay and Ambari in trembling accents 
implored my pardon, which I permitted them to con- 
tinue for half-an-hour longer, when I finally relented, 
releasing them both from their chains, and restoring the 
former to his full honors as captain. 

While on this subject, I may as well give here a 
sketch of each of the principal men whose names must 
often appear in the following chapters. According to 
rank, they consist of Bombay, Mabruki Speke, Asmani 
the guide, Cliowpereh, Uhmengo, Khamisi, Ambari, 
Jumah, Ferajji the cook, Maganga the Mriyamwezi, 
Selim the Arab boy, and youthful Kalulu a gunbearer. 

Bombay has received an excellent charactei- from 
Burton, Speke, and Grant, but I am sorry to say he 
will never be able to have it endorsed by me. '' In- 
carnation of honesty " Burton grandly terms him. 
The truth is, though, that Bombay was neither very 
honest nor very dishonest, i.e., he did not venture to 
steal much. He sometimes contrived cunningly, as he 
distributed the meat, to hide a very large share lor his 
own use. This peccadillo of his did not disturb me 
much ; he deserved as captain a larger share than the 



Oct. 1871.] TO MRERA, UKONONGO. 347 

others. He required to be closely watched, and when 
aware that this was the case, he seld m ventured to 
appropriate more cloth than I would have freely given 
him, had he asked for it. As a personal servant, or 
valet, he would have been unexceptionable, but as a 
captain or jemadar over his fellows, he was out of his 
proper sphere. It was too much brain-work, and was 
too productive of anxiety to keep him in oi'der. At 
times he was helplessly imbecile in his movements, 
forgot every order the moment it was given him, 
consistently broke or lost some valuable article, was 
fond of argument, and addicted to bluster. He thinks 
Hajji Abdullah one of the wickedest white men born, 
because he saw him pick up men's skulls and put them 
in sacks, as if he was about to prepare a horrible 
medicine with them. He wanted to know whether his 
former master had written down all he himself did, 
and when told that Burton had not said anything, in 
his books upon the Lake Regions, upon collecting 
skulls at Kilwa, thought 1 would be doing a good work 
if I published this important fact.* Bombay intende, to 
make a pilgrimage to visit Speke's grave some day. 

Mabruki, *'Ras-bukra Mabruki," Bull-headed Mabruki, 
as Burton calls him, Mabruki Speke, as he was called by 
us in distinction from other Mabrukis, is a very much 
abused man in my opinion. Burton and Mabruki had 
glorious quarrels with each other, so the latter tells me, 
and if he is to be believed his master did not come off 
always best. The great traveller used to call to him in 
Arabic, and abuse him in the choice vocabulary of El 
Scham. " Ji'ib el haleeb Bil-alek," Mabruki says, used 

* I find upon returning to England, that Capt. Burton has informed the 
world of this " wicked and abominable deed/' in his book u])on Zanzibar 
and that the interesting collection may be seen at the Royal College cd 
Surgeons, London. 



348 now 1 FOUND LIVINGSTOXE. 

to be told liim often ; which means, " Bring the milk, 

you ." Well, I am sure I am not sufficiently 

up in Syrian Arabic to be able to translate the last 
^vord. It is something awful, I have no doubt, because 
it still exercises Mabruki considerably. Mabruki says 
he would like to have a stand-up figlit with his former 
master, but I do not think he would hurt him very 
much, after all. But Mabruki, though he is stupid, is 
faithful. He is entirely out of his element as valet, he 
might as well be clerk. As a watchman he is invaluable, 
as a second captain or fundi, whose duty it is to bring 
up stragglers, he is superexcellent. He is ugly, and 
vain, but he is no coward. 

Asmani the guide is a large fellow, standing over six 
feet, with the neck and shoulders of a Hercules. 
Besides being guide, he is a fundi, sometimes called 
Fundi Asmani, or hunter. A very superstitious man, who 
takes great care of his gun, and talisnianic plaited cord, 
which he has dipped in the blood of all the animals he has 
ever shot. He is afraid of lions, and will never venture 
out where lions are known to be. All other animals he 
regards as game, and is indefatigable in their pursuit. 
He is seldom seen without a smile on his face, not a 
kindly kind, but an apologetic, a treacherous smile. He 
could draw a knife across a man's throat and still smile. 

Chowpereh is a sturdy short man of thirty or there- 
abouts ; very good-natured, and humorous. When 
Chowpereh speaks in his dry Mark Twain style, the 
whole camp laughs. I never quarrel with Chowpereh, 
never did quarrel with him. A kind word given to 
Chowpereh is sure to be reciprocated with a good 
deed. He is the strongest, the healthiest, the amiablest, 
the faith fullest of all. He is the embodiment of a good 
follower. 



Oct. 1871.] TO MREEA, UKONONGO. 34 c 

Kliamisi is a neat, cleanly boy of twenty or there- 
abouts, active, loud-voiced, a boaster, and the cowardliest 
of the cowardly. He will steal at every opportunity. 
He clings to his gun most aifectionately ; is always 
excessively anxious if a screw gets loose, or if a flint 
will not strike fire, yet 1 doubt that he would be able to 
fire his gun at an enemy from excessive trembling. 
Khamisi would rather trust his safety to his feet, which 
are small, and well shaped. 

Ambari is a man of about forty. He is one of the 
*' Faithfuls " of Speke, and one of my Faithfuls. He 
would not run away from me except wdien in the 
presence of an enemy, and imminent personal danger. 
He is clever in his way, but is not sufficiently clever to 
enact the part of captain, could take charge of a small 
party, and give a very good account of them. Is lazy, 
and an admirer of good living, abhors marching, unless 
he has nothing to carry but his gun. 

Jumah is the best abused man of the party. Not by 
me, however, for I very seldom quarrel with him, 
because he has old-womanish ways with him, and in 
his old-womanish ways is disposed to do the best he can 
for me, though he will not carry a pound in weight 
without groaning terribly at his hard fate. To me he 
is sentimental and pathetic ; to the unimportant members 
of the caravan he is stern and uncompromising. But 
the truth is, that I could well have dispensed with 
Jumah's presence: he was one of the incorrigible 
inuiiles, eating far more than he was worth ; besides 
being an excessively grumbling and querulous fool. 

Ulimengo, a strong stalwart fellow of thirty, was the 
maddesrt and most hare-brained of my party. Though 
an arrant coward, he was a consummate boaster. But 
though a devotee of pleasure and fun, he was not averse 



350 EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

from work. With one hundred men such as he, I could 
i ravel through Africa provided there was no fighting 
to do. It will be remembered that he was the martial 
coryphaeus who led my little army to war against 
Mirambo, chanting the battle-song of the Wangwana ; 
and that I stated, that when the retreat was determined 
upon, he was the first of my party to reach the strong- 
hold of Mfuto. He is a swift runner, and a fair 
hunter. I have been indebted to him on several 
occasions, for a welcome addition to my larder. 

Ferajji, a former dishwasher to Speke, was my cook. 
He was promoted to this office upon the defection of 
Bunder Salaam, and the extreme non-fitness of ^bdul 
Kader. For cleaning dishes, the first corn-cob, green 
twig, a bunch of leaves or grass, answered Ferajji's 
purposes in the absence of a cloth. If I ordered a plate, 
and I pointed out a black, greasy, sooty, thumbmark 
to him, a rub of a finger Ferajji thought sufficient to 
remove all objections. If I hinted that a spoon was 
rather dirty, Ferajji fancied that with a little saliva, 
and a rub of his greasy loin cloth, the most fastidious 
ought to be satisfied. Every pound of meat, and every 
three spoonfuls of musk or porridge I ate in Africa, 
contained at least ten grains of sand. Ferajji was 
considerably exercised at a threat I made to him that 
on arrival at Zanzibar, I would get the great English 
doctor there to open my stomach, and count every grain 
of sand found in it, for each grain of which Ferajji 
should be charged one dollar. The consciousness that 
my stomach must contain a large number, for which 
the forfeits would be heavy, made him feel very sad at 
times. Otherwise, Ferajji was a good cook, most 
industrious, if not accomplished. He could produce a 
cup of tea, and three or four hot pancakes, within ten 



()c'T. 1871.] TO MRERA, UKONONGO. 351 

minutes after a halt was ordered, for which I was most 
grateful, as I was almost always hungry after a long 
march. Ferajji sided with Baraka against Bombay 
in Uiiyoro, and when Speke took Bombay's side of the 
question, Ferajji, out of love for Baraka, left Speke's 
service, and so forfeited his pay. 

Maganga was a Mnyamwezi, a native of Mkwenkwe, 
a strong, faithful servant, an excellent pagazi, witli an 
irreproachable temper. He it was who at all times, 
on the march, started the wildly exuberant song of the 
Wanyamwezi porters, which, no matter how hot the 
sun, or how long the march, was sure to produce 
gaiety and animation among the people. At such 
times all hands sang, sang with voices tliat could 
be heard miles away, which made the great forests 
ring with the sounds, which startled every animal big 
or little, for miles around. On approaching a village 
the temper of whose people might be hostile to us, 
Maganga would commence his song, with the entire 
party joining in the chorus, by which mode we knew 
whether the natives were disposed to be friendly or 
hostile. If hostile, or timid, the gates would at once 
be closed, and dark faces would scowl at us from the 
interior ; if friendly, they rushed outside of their gates 
to welcome us, or to exchange friendly remarks. 

The most important member of the Expedition, next 
to myself, was Selim, the young Arab boy, a Christian 
from Jerusalem. He was educated by good Bishop 
Gobat, and if all the Arab boys of his school turn out 
as well as Selim, then Bishop Grobat deserves the 
highest praise for his noble work. Without Selim 1 
must have perished at Mfuto ; without Selim I could 
not have so well obtained the friendship of the chief 
Arabs in the interior ; neither could I have well com- 



3r)2 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

niunicated with them, for though I understood Ai«abic, 
I could not speak it. I employed this boy in January 
1870 ; since which time he had travelled with me through 
Southern Russia, the Caucasus, and Persia. In my 
service he was honest and faithful, if called to the 
death ; he was without fear, and without reproach ; 
and I feel while recording these praises of him that 
they are totally insufficient to convey my sense of the 
services he rendered to me. 

I have already related how Kalulu came to be in my 
service, and how he came to bear his present name. I 
soon found how apt and quick he was to learn, in 
consequence of which, he was promoted to the rank of 
persona] attendant. Even Selim could not vie with 
Kalulu in promptness and celerity, or in guessing my 
wants at the table. His little black eyes were con- 
stantly roving over the dishes, studying out the 
problem of what was further necessary, or had become 
unnecessary. 

We arrived at the Ziwani, in about 4 h. 30 m. 
from the time of our quitting the scene which 
had well-nigh witnessed a sanguinary conflict. The 
Ziwani, or pool, contained no water, not a drop, 
until the parched tongues of my people warned them 
that they must proceed to excavate for water. This 
excavation was performed (by means of strong hard 
sticks sharply pointed) in the dry hard-caked bottom. 
After digging to a depth of six feet their labours were 
rewarded with the sight of a few drops of muddy 
liquid percolating through the sides, which were 
eagerly swallowed to relieve their raging thirst. Some 
voluntarily started with buckets, gourds, and canteens 
south to a deserted clearing called the " Tongoni " in 
Ukamba, and in about three hours returned with a 




SELIM THE INTERPRETER. 



Oct. 1871.] TO MRERA, UKONONGO. 353 

plentiful supply for immediate use, of good arxd clear 
water. 

In 1 h. 30 m. we arrived at this Tongoni, or de- 
serted clearing of the Wakamba. Here were three or 
four villages burnt, and an extensive clearing desolate, 
the work of the Wa-Euga-Euga of Mirambo. Those 
of the inhabitants who were left, after tlie spoliation 
and complete destruction of the flourishing settlement, 
emigrated westerly to Ugara. A large herd of buffalo 
now slake their thirst at the pool which supplied the 
villages of U kamba with water. 

Great masses of iron haematite cropped up above the 
surface in tliese forests. Wild fru began to be abun- 
dant ; the wood-apple and tamarind and a small plum- 
like fruit, furnished us with many an agreeable repast. 

The honey-bird is very frequent in these forests 
of Ukonongo. Its cry is a loud, quick chirrup. 
The Wakonongo understand how to avail themselves 
of its guidance to the sweet treasure of honey, which 
the wild bees have stored in the cleft of some great tree. 
Daily, the Wakonongo who had joined our caravan 
brought me immense cakes of honey-comb containing 
delicious wdiite and red honey. The red honey-comb 
generally contains large numbers of dead bees, but our 
exceedingly gluttonous people thought little of these. 
They not only ate the honey-bees, but they also ate 
a good deal of the wax. 

As soon as the honey-bird descries the traveller, he 
immediately utters a series of wild, excited cries, hops 
about from twig to twig, and from branch to branch, 
then hops to another tree, incessantly repeating his 
chirruping call. The native, understanding the nature 
of the little bird, unhesitatingly follows him ; but per- 
haps his L.eps are too slow for the impatient caller, 

2 A 



354 HOW I FO UND LI VINQSTONE. 

upon which he flies back, urgiijg with louder, more 
impatient cries, to hasteo, and then darts swiftly for- 
ward, as if he would show^ how quickly he could go to 
the honey-store, until at last the treasure is reached, 
the native has applied fire to the bees' nest^and secure :l 
the honey, while the little bird preens himself, and 
chirrups in triumphant notes, as if he were informing 
the biped that without his aid he never could have 
found the honey. 

Buffalo gnats and tsetse were very troublesome on 
this march, owing to the numerous herds of game in 
the vicinity. 

On the 9th of October we made a long march in a 
southerly direction, and formed our camp in the centre 
of a splendid grove of trees. The water was very 
scarce on the road. The Wamrima and Wanyamwezi 
are not long able to withstand thirst. When water 
is plentiful they slake their thirst at every stream and 
pool ; when it is scarce^ as it is here and in the deserts 
of Marenga and Magunda Mkali, long afternoon- 
marches are made ; the men previously, however, filling 
their gourds, so as to enable them to reach the water 
early next morning. Selim was never able to endure 
thirst. It mattered not, how much of the precious 
liquid he carried, he generally drank it all before 
reaching camp, and he consequently suffered during 
the night. Besides this, he endangered his life 
by quaffing from every muddy pool ; and on this day 
he began to complain that he discharged blood, which 
I took to be an incipient stage of dysentery. 

During these marches, ever since quitting Ugundn. 
a favourite topic at the camp-fires were the Wa-Ruga- 
Ruga, and their atrocities, and a possible encounter 
that we might have with these bold rovers of the forest 



Oct. 1871.] TO MRERA, UKONONOO. 555 

I verily believe that a sudden onset of half a dozen of 
Mirambo's people would have set the whole caravan 
a-running. 

We reached Marefu the next day, after a short three 
hours' march. We there found an embassy sent by the 
Arabs of Unyanyembe, to the Southern Watuta, bear- 
ing presents of several bales, in charge of Hassan the 
Mseguhha. This valiant leader and diplomatist had 
halted here some tun days, because of wars, and ru- 
mours of wars in his front. It was said that Mbogo, 
Sultan of Mbogo in Ukonongo, was at war with the 
brother of Manwa Sera, and as Mbogo was a large 
district of Ukonongo, only two days' march from Marefu, 
fear of being involved in it was deterring old Hassan 
from proceeding. He advised me also not to proceed, 
as it was impossible to be able to do so without being 
embroiled in the conflict. I informed him that I 
intended to proceed on my way, and take my chances, 
and graciously offered him my escort as far as the 
frontier of Ufipa, from which he could easily and 
safely continue on his way to the Watuta, but he 
declined it. 

We had now been travelling fourteen days in a 
south-westerly direction, having made a little more 
than one degree of latitude. I had intended to have 
gone a little further south, because it was such a good 
road, also since by going further south we should have 
laboured under no fear of meeting Mirambo ; but the 
report of this war in our front, only two days off, com- 
pelled me, in the interest of the Expedition, to strike 
across towards the Tanganika, on a west-by-nortli 
course through the forest, travelling, when it was advan- 
tageous, along elephant tracks and local paths. This 
new plan was adopted after consulting with Asmani^ 



S56 BOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, 

fche guide. We were now in UkoiiongT), having entered 
this district when we crossed the Gombe creek. 

The next day after arriving at Marefii we plunged 
westward, in view of the villagers, and tlie Arab 
ambassador, who kept repeating until the last moment 
that we should " certainly catch it." 

We marclied eight hours througli a forest, wliere the 
forest peachy or the " mbembu," is abundant. The tree 
that bears this fruit is very like a pear-tree, and is 
very jjroductive. I saw one tree, upon which I esti- 
mated there were at least six or seven bushels. I ate 
numbers of the peaches on this day. So long as this 
fruit can be procured, a traveller in these regions need 
notfear s tarvatiou. 

At the base of a graceful hilly cone we found a 
village called Utende, the inhabitants of which were in 
a state of great alarm, as we suddenly appeared on the 
ridge above them. Diplomacy urged me to send forward 
a present of one doti to the Sultan, who, however, would 
not accept it, because he happened to be drunk with 
pombe, and was therefore disposed to be insolent. 
Upon being informed that he would refuse any present, 
unless he received four more cloths, I immediately 
ordered a strong boma to be constructed on the summit 
of a little hill, near enough to a plentiful supply of 
water, and quietly again packed up the present in the 
bale. I occupied a strategically chosen position^ as I 
could have swept the face of the hill, and the entire 
space between its base and the village of the Watende. 
Watchmen were kept on the look-out all night; but 
we were fortunately not troubled until the morning, 
when a delegation of the principal men c;vme to ask 
if I intended to depart without having made a present 
to tlie chief. I replied to them that 1 did not intend 



Oct. 1871.] TO MRERA, UKONONQO. 357 

passing through any country without making friends 
with tlie chiefs ; and if their chief would accept a good 
cloth from me, I would freely give it to him. Though 
they demurred at the amount of the present at first, 
the difference between us was finally ended by my 
adding a fundo of red beads — sami-sami — for the chief's 
wife. 

From the hill and ridge of Utende sloped a forest 
for miles and miles westerly, which was terminated by 
a grand and smooth-topped ridge rising 500 or 600 feet 
above* tlie plain. 

A four liours' march, on the 12th of October, brousrhl 
us to a nullah similar to the Gombe, which, durin^- the 
wet season, flows to the Gombe River, and thence into 
the M.'ilagarazi River. 

A little; before camping we saw a herd of nimba, or 
pallah ; I had the good fortune to shoot one, wdiich was 
a welcome addition to our fast diminishing store oi 
dried meats, j)repared in our camp on the Gombe. By 
the quantity of house de vache^ we judged buffaloes w^ere 
plentiful here, as well as elephant and rhinoceros. The 
feathered species were well represented by ibis, fish- 
eagles, pelicans, storks, cranes, several snowy spoon- 
bills, and flamingoes. 

From the nullah, or mtoni, we proceeded to Mwaru, 
the principal village of the district of Mwaru, the chiei 
of which is Ka-mirambo. Our march lay over deso- 
lated clearings once occupied by Ka-mirambo*s people, 
but wlio were driven away by Mkasiwa some ten years 
ago, during his warfare against Manwa Sera. Niongo, 
the brother of the lattjr, now waging war against 
Mbog-), had parsed t'iro gh Mwaru the day before we 
arrived, after being defe ted by his enemy. 

The hilly ridge that bo inded the westward horizon, 



358 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

visible from Utende, was surmounted on this day. The 
v\'estern slope trends south-west, and is drained by the 
River Mrera, which emptit^s into the Malagarazi River. 
We perceived the influence of the Tanganika, even 
liere, though we were yet twelve or fifteen marches 
From the lake. The jungles increased in density, and the 
grasses became enormously tall ; these points reminded 
us of the maritime districts of Ukwere and Ukami. 

We heard from a caravan at this place, just come 
from Ufipa, that a white man was reported to be in 
''Urua," which I supposed to mean Livingstone. ' 

Upon leaving Mwaru we entered the district of 
Mrera, a chief who ouce possessed great power and 
influence over this region. Wars, however, have 
limited his possessions to three or four villages snugly 
embosomed within a jungle, whose outer rim is so 
dense that it serves like a stone wall to repel invaders. 
There were nine bleached skulls, stuck on the top of as 
liiany poles, before the principal gate of entrance, 
which told us of existing feuds between the Wako- 
nongo and the Wazavira. This latter tribe dwelt in a 
country a few marches west of us ; whose territory we 
should have to avoid, unless we sought another oppor- 
tunity to distinguish ourselves in battle with the 
natives. The Wazavira, we were told by the Wako- 
nongo of Mrera, were enemies to all Wangwana. 

In a narrow strip of marsh between Mwaru and 
Mrera, we saw a small herd of wild elephants. It was 
the first time I had ever seen these animals in their 
native wildness, and my first impressions of them I 
shall not readily forget. I am induced to think that 
the elephant deserves the title of 'Mving of beasts." His 
huge form, the lordly way in which he stares at an 
intruder on his domain, and his whole appearance indi- 



()cr. 1871.1 TO MR ERA, UKONONOO. 359 

cative of conscious might, afford good grounds for his 
claim to that title. This herd, as we passed it at the 
distance of a mile, stopped to survey the caravan as it 
passed ; and, after having satisfied their curiosity, the 
elephants trooped into the forest which bounded the 
marshy plain southward, as if caravans were every-day 
things to them, Avhilst they — the free and unconquerable 
lords of the forest and the marsh — had nothing in com- 
mon with the cowardly bipeds, wlio never found courage 
to face tliem in fair combat. The destruction which a 
herd makes in a forest is simply tremendous. When the 
trees are young, whole swathes may be found uprooted 
and prostrate, which mark the track of the elephants as 
they " trampled their path through wood and brake." 

The boy Selim was so ill at this place that I was 
compelled to halt the caravan for him for three days. 
He seemed to be affected with a disease in the limbs, 
which caused him to sprawl, and tremble most painfully, 
besides 'suffering from an attack of acute dysentery. 
But constant attendance and care soon brought him 
round again ; and on the fourth day he was able to 
endure the fatigue of riding. 

I was able to shoot several animals during our stay at 
Mrera. The forest outside of the cultivation teems with 
noble animals. Zebra, giraffe, elephant, and rhinoceros 
are most common : ptarmigan and guinea-fowl were 
also plentiful. 

The warriors of Mrera are almost all armed wnth 
muskets, of which they take great care. They were 
very importunate in their demands for flints, bullets, 
and powder, which I always made it a point to refuse, 
lest at ai\y moment a fracas occurring they might use 
the ammunition thus supplied to my own disadvantage. 
The men of this village were an idle set, doing little 



mo HOW I FOUND LIVINQSTONJ^. 

but hunting, gaping, gossiping, and playing like gieal 
boys. 

During the interval of my stay at Mrera I employed 
a large portion of my time in mending my slioes^ and 
patching up the great rents in my clothes, which the 
thorn species, during the late marches, had almost 
destroyed. Westward, beyond Mrera, was a wilderness, 
the transit of which we were warned would occupy 
nine days ; hence arose the necessity to purchase a large 
supply of grain, which, ere attempting the great unin^ 
habited void in our front, was to be ground and sifted 







Vli:.\V IN UVINZA. 



CHAPTER XI. 



THROUGH UKAWENDI, UYINZA^ AND UHHA, TO UJIJI. 



TIkonongo. 

From Mrera to Mtoni 

Misonghi . 

Mtoni .... 

Mpokwa in Utanda 

Mtoni .... 



Ukawendi. 

Mtambu River. 
Imrera 

Rusawa Mts. . 
Mtoni . . . 
Mtoni . . . 
Camp in Forest 
Camp in Forest 

UVINZA. 

Welled Nzogera 



m. 
30 
30 


45 





4 


30 


4 


20 


2 


30 


4 





5 





6 





5 


30 



2 30 



h. m. 

Camp in Forest . . 4 15 

Siala on the Malagarazi 2 45 
Ihata Island in the 

Malagarazi ... 1 30 

Katalambula . . 1 45 

UlIHA. 

Kawanga in Uhha . 5 30 
Lnkomo „ .10 

Kahirigi „ .40 

Rusngi River ... 5 
Lake Musunya ..40 
Rugufu River . . . 4 30 
Simuzzi „ . . . 3 
Niamtaga Ukaranga . 9 30 

Ujiji. PortofUjjii . 6 



We bade farewell to Mrera on the 17th of October, 
to continue our route north-westward. All the men 



362 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, 

and I were firm friends now ; all squabbling had long 
ceased. Bombay and I had forgotten our quarrel ; the 
kirangozi and myself were ready to embrace, so loving 
and affectionate were the terms upon which we stood 
towards one another. Confidence returned to all hearts 
— for now, as Mabruk Unyanyembe said, " we could 
smell the fish of tlie Tanganika." Unyanyembe, with 
ail its disquietude, was far behind. We could snap our 
fingers at that terrible Mirambo and his unscrupulous 
followers, and by-and-by, perhaps, we may be able to 
laugh at the timid seer who always prophesied por- 
tentous events — Sheikh, the son of Nasib. We laughed 
joyously, as we glided in Indian file through the young 
forest jungle beyond the clearing of Mrera, and boasted 
of our prowess. Oh ! we were truly brave that 
morning ! 

Emerging from the jungle, we entered a thin forest, 
where numerous ant-hills were seen like so many sand 
dunes. I imagine that these ant-hills were formed 
during a remarkably wet season, when, possibly, the 
forest-clad plain was inundated. I have seen the ants 
at work by thousands, engaged in the work of erecting 
their hills in other districts suffering from inunda- 
tion. What a wonderful system of cells these tiny 
insects construct ! A perfect labyrinth — cell within 
cell, room within room, hall within hall — an exhibition 
of engineering talents and high architectural capacity 
— a model city, cunningly contrived for safety and 
comfort ! 

Emerging after a short hour's march out of the 
forest, we welcome the sight of a murmuring trans- 
lucent stream, swiftly flowing towards the north-west, 
which we regard with the pleasure which only men 
who have for a long time sickened themselves with 



Oct. 1871.] UKAWENDI, UVINZA, AND U/llLl, TO UJIJJ. 36? 

that potable liquid of the foulest kind, found in salinas. 
mbugas, pools, and puddle-holes, can realize. Beyond 
this stream rises a rugged and steep ridge, from the 
summit of which our eyes are gladdened with scenes 
that are romantic, animated, and picturesque. They 
form an unusual feast to eyes sated with looking into 
the depths of forests, at towering stems of trees, and at 
tufted crowns of foliage. We have now before us 
scores of cones, dotting the surface of a plain which 
extends across Southern Ukonongo to the territory of 
the Wafipa, and which reaches as far as the Rikwa 
Plain. The immense prospect before which we are sud- 
denly ushered is most varied ; exclusive of conical hills 
and ambitious flat-topped and isolated mountains, we 
are in view of the watersheds of the Rungwa River, 
which empties into the Tanganika south of where we 
stand, and of the Malagarazi River, which the Tan- 
ganika receives, a degree or so north of this position. 
A single but lengthy latitudinal ridge serves as a 
dividing line to the watershed of the Rungwa and 
Malagarazi ; and a score of miles or so further west 
of this ridge rises another, which runs north and 
south. 

We camped on this day in the jungle, close to a 
narrow ravine with a marshy bottom, through the oozy, 
miry contents of which the waters from the watershed 
of the Rungwa slowly trickled southward towards the 
Rikwa Plain. This was only one of many ravines, 
however, some of which were several hundred yards 
hroad, others were but a few yards in width, the 
bottoms of which were most dangerous quagmires, 
overgrown with dense tall reeds and papyrus. Over 
the surface of these great depths of mud were seen 
hundreds of thin threads of slimy ochre-colored water, 



364 HOW 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

which swarmed with animalculae. By-and-by, a few 
miles south of the base of this ridge (which I call 
Kasera, from the country which it cuts in halves), 
these several ravines converge and debouch into the 
broad, marshy, oozy, spongy " river " of Uscnse, which 
trends in a south-easterly direction ; after which, 
gathering the contents of the watercourses from the 
north and north-cast into its own broader channel, it 
soon becomes a stream of some breadth and conse- 
quence, and meets a river flowing from the east, from 
the direction of Urori, with which it conflows in the 
Rikwa Plain, and empties about sixty rectilineal miles 
further west into the Tanganika Lake. The Rungwa 
River, I am informed, is considered as a boundary line 
between the country of Usowa on the north, and Ufipa 
on tlje south. 

We had barely completed the construction of our 
camp defences when some of the men were heard 
challenging a ^mall party of natives v/liich advanced 
towards our camp, headed by a man who, from his 
garb and head-dress, we knew was from Zanzibar. 
After interchanging the customary salutations, I was 
informed that this party was an embassy from Simba 
('' Lion "), who ruled over Kasera, in Southern Unya- 
mwezi. Simba, I was told, was the son of Mkasiwa, 
King of Unyanyembe, and was carrying on war with the 
Wazavira, of whom I was warned to beware. He had 
heard such reports of my greatness that he was sorry I 
did not take his road to Ukawendi, that he might have 
had the opportunity of seeing me, and making friends 
with me ^ but in the absence of a personal visit Simba 
had sent this embassy to overtake me, in the hope that 
1 would present him with a token of my friendship in 
the shape of cloth. Though I was rather taken aback 



Oct. 1871.] UKAWENDI, UVINZA, AND UHHA, TO UJIJI. 365 

by the demand, still it was politic in me to make this 
powerful chief my friend, lest on my return from the 
search after Livingstone he and I might fall out. 
And since it was incumbent on me to make a present. 
for the sake of peace, it was necessary to exhibit my 
desire for peace by giving— if I gave at all — a royal 
present. The ambassador conveyed from me to Simba, 
or the *' Lion " of Kasera, two gorgeous cloths, and two 
other doti consisting of Merikani and Kaniki ; and, if I 
might believe the ambassador, I had made Simba a 
friend for ever. 

On the 18th of October, breaking camp at the usual 
hour, we continued our march north-westward by a 
road which zig-zagged along the base of the Kasera 
mountains, and which took us into all kinds of diffi- 
culties. We traversed at least a dozen marshy ravines 
the depth of mire and water in which caused the 
utmost anxiety. T sunk up to my neck in deep holes 
in the Stygian ooze caused by elephants, and had to 
tramp through the oozy beds of the Rungwa sources 
with my clothes wet and black with mud and slime. 
Decency forbade that I should strip, and wade through 
the sedgy marsh naked ; and the hot sun would also 
blister my body. Moreover, these morasses were too 
frequent to lose time in undressing and dressing, and, 
as each man was weighted with his own proper load, it 
would have been cruel to compel the men to bear me 
across. Nothing remained, therefore, but to march on, 
all encumbered as I was with my clothing and accoutre- 
ments, into these several marshy watercourses, with all 
the philosophical stoicism that my nature could muster 
for such emergencies. But it was very uncomfortable, 
to say the least of it. 

We soon entered the territory of the dreaded Waza- 



366 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

vira, but no enemy was in sight. Simba, in his wars, 
had made clean work of the northern part of Uzavira, 
and we encountered nothing worse than a view of the 
desolated country, which must have been once — judg- 
ing from the number of burnt huts and debris of ruined 
villages — extremely populous. A young jungle was 
sprouting up vigorously in their fields, and was rapidly 
becoming the home of wild denizens of the forest. In 
one of the deserted and ruined villages, I found quarters 
for the Expedition, which were by no means uncom- 
fortable. I shot three brace of guinea fowl in the 
neighborhood of Misonghi, the deserted village we 
occupied, and Ulimengo, one of my hunters, bagged an 
antelope, called the " mbawala," for whose meat some 
of the Wanyaiuwezi liave a superstitious aversion. I 
take this species of antelope, which stands about three 
and a half feet high, of a reddish hide, head long, horns 
short, to be the " Nzoe " antelope discovered by Speke in 
Uganda^ and whose Latin designation is, according to 
Dr. Sclater, "' Tragelaphus Spekii." It has a short 
bushy tail, and long hair along the spine. 

A long march in a west-by-north direction, lasting 
six hours, through a forest where the sable antelope 
was seen, and which was otherwise prolific with game, 
brought us to a stream which ran by the base of 
a lofty conical hill, on whose slopes flourished quite a 
forest of feathery bamboo. 

On the 20th, leaving our camp, which lay between 
the stream and the conical hill above mentioned, and 
surmounting a low ridge which sloped from the base of 
the hill-cone, we were greeted with another picturesque 
view^ of cones and scarped mountains, which heaved 
upward in all directions. A march of nearly five hours 
through this picturesque country brought us to the 



Oct. 1871.] UKA WENDI, UVINZA, AND URI/A, TO UJIJl. 367 

Mpokwa River, one of the tributaries of the Rungwa, 
and to a village lately deserted by the Wazavira. The 
huts were almost all intact, precisely as they were left 
by their former inhabitants. In the gardens were yet 
found vegetables, which, after living so long on meat, 
were most grateful to us. On the branches of trees still 
rested the Lares and Penates of the Wazavirn, in the 
shape of large and exceedingly w^ll-inadc earihoi pots. 




In the neighboring river one of my men succeeded, 
in a few minutes, in catching sixty fish of tlie silurus 
species by the hand alone. A number of birds 
hovered about the stream, such as the white-headed 
fish-eagle and the black kingfisher^ enormous snowy 
spoonbills, ibis, martins, &c. This river issued from 
a mountain clump eight miles or so north of the 
village of Mpokwa, and comes flowing down a narrow 
thread of water, sinuously winding amongst tall reeds 



368 now I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

and dense brakes on either side — the home of hun- 
dreds of antelo[)es and buffaloes. South of Mpokwa, 
the valley broadens, and the mountains deflect eastward 
and westward^ and beyond this point commences the 
plain known as the Rikwa, which, during the Masika 
is inundated, but which, in the dry season, presents the 
same bleached aspect that plains in Africa generally do 
when the glass has ripened. 

Travel Hng up along the right bank of the Mpokwa, 
on the 2ist we came to the head of the stream, and 
the sources of the Mpokwa, issuing out of deep defiles 
enclosed by lofty ranges. The mbawala and the buffalo 
were plentiful. 

On the 22nd, after a march of four hours and a half, 
we came to the beautiful stream of Mtambu — the water 
of which was sweet, and clear as crystal, and flowed 
northward. We saw for the first time the home of the 
lion and the leopard. Hear what Freiligrath says of 
the place : 

" Where the thorny brake and thicket 

Densely fill the interspace 
Of the trees, through whose thick branches 

Never sunshine lights the place, 
There the lion dwells, a monarch, 

Mightiest among the brutes ; 
There his right to reign supremest 

Never one his claim disputes. 
There he layeth down to slumber, 

Having slain and ta'en his fill ; 
There he roameth, there he croucheth, 

As it s.uits his lordly will." 

We camped but a few yards from just such a place 
as the poet describes. The herd-keeper who attended 
the goats and dnnkeys, soon after our arrival in camp, 
Irove the animals to water, and in order to obtain it 



Oct. 1871.] UKAWENDI, UVINZA, AND UHHA, TO UJIJl. 369 

fcbey travelled through a tunnel in the brake, caused by 
elephants and rhinoceros. They had barely entered the 
dark cavernous passage, when a black-spotted leopard 
sprang, and fastened its fangs in the neclc of one of 
the donkeys, causing it, from the pain, to bray hideously. 
Its companions set up such a frightful chorus, and 
so lashed their heels in the air at the feline marauder, 
as to cause the leopard to bound away througli the 
brake, as if in sheer dismay at the noisy cries which 
the attack had provoked. The donkey's neck exhibited 
some frightful wounds, but the animal was not dan- 
gerously hurt. 

Thinking that possibly I might meet with an adven- 
ture with a lion or a leopard in that dark belt of tall 
trees, under whose impenetrable shade grew the dense 
thicket that formed such admirable coverts for the car- 
nivorous species, I took a stroll along the awesome 
place with the gunbearer, Kalulu, carrying an extra 
gun, and a further supply of ammunition. We crept 
cautiously along, looking keenly into the deep dark 
dens, the entrances of which were revealed to us, as 
we journeyed, expectant every moment to behold the 
reputed monarch of the brake and thicket, bound for- 
ward to meet us, and I took a special delight in pictur- 
ing, in my imagmation, the splendor and majesty of 
the wrathful brute, as he might stand before me. 1 
peered closely into every dark opening, Ijoping to see 
the deadly glitter of the great angry eyes, and the 
glowering menacing front of the lion as he would 
regard me. But, alas ! after an hour's search for 
adventure, I had encountered nothing, and I accord- 
ingly waxed courageous, and crept into one of these 
leafy, thorny caverns, and found myself shortly stand- 
ing under a canopy of foliage that was held above my 

2 B 



370 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, 

head fully a hundred feet by the shapely and towering 
stems of the royal mvide. Who can imagine the 
position ? A smooth lawn-like glade ; a dense and 
awful growth of impenetrable jungle around us ; those 
stately natural pillars — a glorious phalanx of royal 
trees, bearing at such sublime heights vivid green 
masses of foliage, tlirough which no single sun-ray 
penetrated, while at our feet babbled the primeval 
brook, over smooth pebbles, in soft tones befitting the 
sacred quiet of the scene ! Who could have desecrated 
this solemn, holy harmony of nature? But just as I 
was thinking it impossible that any man could be 
tempted to disturb tlie serene solitude of the place, I 
saw a monkey perched high on a branch over my head, 
contemplating, with something of an awe-struck look, 
the strange intruders beneath. Well, I could not help 
it, I laughed — laughed loud and long, until I was 
hushed by the chaos of cries and strange noises which 
seemed to respond to my laughing. A troop of 
monkeys, hidden in the leafy depths above, had been 
rudely awakened, and, startled by the noise I made, 
were hurrying away irom the scene ^^ith a dreadful 
clamor of cries and shrieks. 

Emerging again into the broad sunlight, I strolled 
further in search of something to shoot. Presently, I 
saw, feeding quietly in the forest which bounded the 
valley of the Mtambu on the left, a huge, reddish 
colored wild boar, armed with most horrid tusks. Leav- 
ing Kalulu crouched down behind a tree, and my solar 
helmet behind nnother close by — that I might more 
safely stalk the animal — T advanced towards him 
some forty yards, and after taking a deliberate aim, 
fired at its fore shoulder. As if nothing had hurt him 
whatever, the animal made a furious bound, and then 



Oct. 1871.] UKAWENDI, UVINZA, AND UBBA, TO UJIJI. 371 

stood witli ^*3 bristles erected, and tufted tall, curved 
over tlie ba^k a most formidable brute in appearance. 
While he was thus listening, and searching the neigh- 
bourhood wi+h his keen Miiall eyes, I planted another 
shot in his chest, which ploughed its way through his 
body. Instead of falling, liowever, as I expected he 
would, he charged furiously in the direction the bullet 
had come, and as he rushed past me, another ball was 
fired, which went right through him ; but still he kept 
on, until, within six or seven yards from the trees 
behind which Kalulu was crouching down on one 
side, and the helmet was resting behind another, he 
suddenly halted, and then dropped. But as I was 
about to advance on him with my knife to cut his 
throat, he suddenly started up ; his eyes had caught 
sight of the little boy Kalulu, and were then, almost 
immediately afterwards, attracted by the siglit of the 
snowy helmet. These strange objects on either side of 
him proved too much for the boar, for, with a terrific 
grunt, he darted on one side into a thick brake, from 
which it was impossible to oust him, and as it was now 
getting late, and the camp was about three miles away, 
I was reluctantly obliged to return without the meat. 

On our way to camp we were accompanied by a 
large animal which persistently followed us on our left. 
It was too dark to see plainly, but a large form was 
visible, if not very clearly defined. It must have been 
a lion, unless it was the ghost of the dead boar. 

That night, about 11 p.m., we were startled by the 
roar of a lion, in close proximity to the camp. Soon 
it was joined by another, and another still, and the 
novelty of the thing kept me awake. I peered through 
the gate of the camp, and endeavoured to sight a rifle 
— n>y little Winchester, in the accuracy of which I had 



»72 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

perfect confidence ; but, alas ! for the cartridges, thej 
might have been as well filled with sawdust for all 
the benefit I derived from them. Disgusted with the 
miserable ammunition, I left the lions alone, and turned 
in, with their roar as a lullaby. 

That terrestrial paradise for the hunter, the valley 
of the pellucid Mtambu, was deserted by us the next 
morning for the settlement commonly known to the 
Wakawendi as Imrera's, with as much unconcern as 
thougli it were a howling desert. The village near 
which we encamped was called Itaga, in the district of 
Rusawa. As soon as we had crossed the River Mtambu 
we, had entered Ukawendi, commonly called " Kawendi " 
by the natives of the country. 

The diistrict of Rusawa is thickly populated. The 
people are quiet and well-disposed to strangers, though 
few ever come to this region from afar. One or two 
Wasawahili traders visit it every year or so from 
Pumburu and Usowa ; but very little ivory being 
obtained from the people, the long distance between 
the settlements serves to deter the regular trader from 
venturing hither. 

If caravans arrive here, the objective point to them is 
the district of Pumburu, situated south-wosteil)^ one 
day's good marchiug, or, say, thirty statute miles from 
Imrera ; or tliey make for Usowa, on the Tanganika, via 
Pumburu, Katuma, Uyombeh, and Ugarawah. Usowa 
is quite an important district on the TanganilvM, popu- 
lous and flourishing. This was the road we had 
intended to adopt after leaving Imrera, but the 
reports received at the latter place forbade sucli a 
v.ejiture. For Mapunda, the Sultan of Usowa, though 
a great friend to Arab traders, was at war with the 
colony of the Wazavira, who we must remembej' were 



Oct. 1871.] UKAWENDJ, UVINZA, AND UIIUA, TO UJIJI. 37S 

driven from Mpokwa and vicinity in Utanda, and who 
were said to have settled between Pumbnru and Usowa. 

It remained for us, like wise, prudent men, having 
charge of a large and valuable Expedition on our Imnds, 
to detjide what to do, and what route to adopt, now tliat 
we had approached much nearer to Ujiji than we were to 
Unyanyembe. I suggested that we should make direct 
for the Tanganika by compass, trusting to no road or 
guide, but to march direct west until we came to the 
Tanganika, and then follow the lake shore on foot until 
we came to Ujiji. For it ever haunted my mind, that, 
if Dr. Livingstone should hear of my coming, which 
he might possibly do if I travelled along any known 
road, he would leave, and that my search for him 
would consequently be a *' stern chase." But mj 
principal men thought it better that we should now 
boldly turn our faces north, and march for the Mala- 
garazi, which was said to be a large river flowing from 
the east to the Tanganika. But none of my men 
knew the road to the Malagarazi, neither could guides 
be hired from Sultan Imrera. We were, however, 
informed that the Malagarazi was but two days' marcli 
from Imrera. I thought it safe, in such a case, to 
provision my men with three days' rations. 

The village of Itaga is situated in a deep mountain 
hollow, finely overlooking a large extent of cultivation. 
The people grow sweet potatoes, manioc — out of which 
tapioca is made — beans, and the holcus. Not one 
chicken was to be purchased for love or money, and, 
besides grain, only a lean, scraggy specimen of a goat, 
a long time ago imported from Uvinza, was procurable. 

October the 25th will be remembered by me as a 
day of great troubles ; in fact, a series of troubles began 
from this date. We struck an easterly road in order to 



374 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

obtain a passage to the lofty plateau which bounded 
the valley of Imrera on the west and on the north. 
AVe camped, after a two and a half hours' march, at its 
foot. The defile promised a feasible means of ascent to 
the summit of the plateau, which rose upward in 
a series of scarps a thousand feet above the valley of 
Imrera. 

I was given to understand by my men that they 
wished to halt at this camp one day, for the purpose of 
eliciting further information from Imrera concerning 
the nature of the country between us and the Malagarazi. 
This was, of course, nonsense, as I had already halted 
one day at Imrera, and the guides had urged me to 
adopt this road, as — so they argued — they had obtained 
reliable information from the natives about the country. 
I remembered General Andrew Jackson's advice to a 
young friend of his, which was, " Look well before you 
attempt to do a thing, but, when you have decided to 
do it, go and do it, and never look behind," and this 
was precisely what I intended to do. 

Towards night one of my men shot a buffalo, and 
this little incident was another cause of dissension and 
angry retort. The buffalo managed to escape into a 
jungle, where he would be sure to be found dead in the 
morning. I was asked by several belly-worshippers 
and lazy gluttons if I would stop but just one day more, 
that they might make their limbs strong with eating 
meat. " Not an hour after sunrise to-morrow," was 
my answer. Immediately ensued a general cry of " No 
* posho ' — food." " You have three days' food," I an- 
swered; *' but if you wish more, here is cloth : go and 
buy." 

Rut, when challenged to proceed to the village to 
purchase, they each and all pleaded fatigue. They 



Oct. 1871.] UK A WEND J, UVINZA, AND UIIHA, TO UJIJJ. 376 

insisted, however, that I was in duty bound to halt one 
day longer, for, even if they purchased grain, the grain 
required to be ground before they could eat it. The 
pampered fellows maintained this kind of argument 
long. But I was inexorable. And all night they were 
debating what steps to take to induce me to halt ; but 
Bombay and Mabruki were already prohibited from 
coming to me with any sucli request, upon pain of 
battle k la Heeiian ; and Bombay always remembered 
the terrible punishment he received from Speke too well 
to ever desire a repetition of it. 

The next morning, at sunrise, 1 issued the order to 
'^ march " in as stern and uncompromising a tone as I 
could assume, thus precluding any allusion to a halt. 
They were very sulky, and in fit mood to rebel, but, as 
nothing more was left whereon to hang an argument, 
they finally, though reluctantly, yielded to my wilL 
By the time we arrived at our camp at the head of the 
Rugufu River, the men had forgotten the fat buffalo, 
and were in excellent humor. 

While ascending that lofty arc of mountains which 
bounded westerly and northerly the basin of Imrera, 
extensive prospects southward and eastward were re- 
vealed. The chvaracter of the scenery of Ukawendi is 
always animated and picturesque, but never sublime. 
The folds of this ridge contained several ruins of 
bomas, which seemed to have been erected during war 
time. 

The mbembu fruit was plentiful along this march, 
and every few minutes I could see from the rear one or 
two of the men hastening to secure a treasure of it 
which they discovered on the ground. 

A little before reaching the camp I had a shot at a 
leopard, but failed to bring him down as he bounded 



376 now I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, 

awa}^ At niglit the lions roared as at the Mtambii 
River. 

A lengthy march under the deep twilight shadows 
of a great forest, which protected us from the hot 
sunbeams, brought us, on the next day, to a camp 
newly constructed by a party of Arabs from Uji ji, who 
had advanced thus far on their road to Unyanyembe, 
bnt, alarmed at the reports of the war between Mirambo 
and the Arabs, had returned. Our route was along 
the right bank of the Rugufu, a broad sluggish stream, 
well choked with the matete reeds and tlie papyrus. 
Tlie tracks and tlie bouse de vaclie of buffaloes were 
numerous, and there were several indications of rhino- 
ceros being near. In a deep clump of timher near this 
river we discovered a colony of bcaided and leonine- 
looking monkeys. 

As we were about leaving our camp on the morning 
of the 28tli a 1/erd of buffalo walked deliberately into 
view. Silence was quickly restored, but not before the 
animals, to their great surprise, had discovered the 
danger which confronted them. We commenced stalk- 
ing them, hut we soon heard the thundering sound of 
their- gallop, alter which it becomes a useless task to 
follow them, with a long march in a wilderness before 
one. 

The road led on this day over immense sheets of 
sandstone and iron ore. The water was abominable, 
and scarce, a: d famine began to stare us in the face. 
We travel h'd for six hours, and had yet seen no sign 
of cultivation anywhere. According to my map we 
were yet two long marches from the Malagnrazi — if 
Captain l)Uiron had correctly laid down the position of 
the river; • ccording to the natives' account, we should 
have arrived at the Malagarazi on this day. 



Oct. 1871.] UKAWENDI, UVINZA, AND UIIHA, TO UJTJI. 37 < 

On the 29tli we left our camp, and after a few 
minutes, we were in view of the sublimest, but rug- 
gedest scenes we had yet beheld in Africa. The country 
was cut up in all directions by deep, wild, and narrow 
ravines trending in all directions, but generally toward 
the north-west, while on either side rose enormous 
square masses of naked rock (sandstone), sometimes 
towering, and rounded, sometimes pyramidal, some- 
times in truncated cones, sometimes in circular ridges, 
with sharp, rugged, naked backs, with but little vege- 
tation anywhere visible, except it obtained a precarious 
tenure in the fissured crown of some gigantic hill-top, 
whither some soil had fallen, or at the base of the 
reddish ochre scarps which everywhere lifted their 
fronts to our view. 

A long series of descents down rocky gullies, wherein 
we were environed by threatening masses of disinte- 
grated rock, brought us to a dry, stony ravine, with 
mountain heights looming above us some thousand 
feet high. This ravine we followed, winding around in 
all directions, but which gradually widened, however, 
into a broad plain, with a western trend. The road, 
leaving this, struck across a low ridge to the north ; 
and we were in view of deserted settlements where the 
villages were built on frowning castellated masses of 
rock. Near an upright mass of rock over seventy feet 
high, and about fifty yards in diameter, which dwarfed 
the gigantic sycamore close to it, we made our camp, 
after Mvc hours and thirty minutes' continuous and rapid 
marching. 

The people were very hungry; they had eaten every 
scnjp of meat, and every grain they possessed, twenty 
lioin-s l)efore,and there was no immediate prospect of food. 
I had but a pound and a-half of flour left, and this would 



378 HOW 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE, 

not have sufficed to begin to feed a force of o^er forty- 
five people ; but I had something like thirty pounds of 
tea, and twenty pounds of sugar left, and I at once^ as 
soon as we arrived at camp, ordered every kettle to be 
filled and placed on the fire, and then made tea for all. 
giving each man a quart of a hot, grateful beverage, 
well sweetened. Parties stole out also into the depths 
of tlie jungle to search for wild fruit, and soon returned 
laden with baskets of the wood-peach and tamarind 
fruit, which, though it did not satisfy, relieved them. 
That night, before going to sleep, the Wangwana set 
up a loud prayer to " Allah " to give them food. 

We rose betimes in the morning, determined to travel 
on until food could be procured, or we dropped down 
from sheer fatigue and weakness. Rhinoceros' tracks 
abounded, and buffalo seemed to be plentiful, but we 
never belield a living thing. We crossed scores of 
short steeps, and descended as often into the depths of 
dry, stony gullies, and then finally entered a valley, 
bounded on one side by a triangular mountain with 
perpendicular sides, and on the other by a bold group, 
a triplet of hills. While marching down this valley — 
which soon changed its dry, bleached aspect to a vivid 
green — we saw a forest in the distance, and shortly 
found ourselves in corn-fields. Looking keenly around 
for a village, we descried it on the summit of the lofty 
triangular hill on our right. A loud exultant shout was 
raised at the discovery. The men threw down their 
packs, and began to clamor for food. Yolunteers 
were asked to come forward to take cloth, and scale 
the heights to obtain it from the village, at any price. 
While three or four sallied off we rested on the ground, 
quite worn out. 

In about an hour the foraging party returned with 



Oct. 1871.] UKA WENDl, UVINZA, AND UJITIA, TO UJIJI. S79 

the glc/rious tidings that ff)od was plentiful ; that the 
village we saw was called, '' Welled Nzogera's " — the 
son of Nzogera — by which, of course, we knew that we 
were in Uvinza, Nzogera being the principal chief in 
Uvinza. We were further informed that Nzogera, the 
father, was at war with Lokanda-Mira, about some salt- 
pans in the valley of the Malagarazi, and that it would 
be difficult to go to Ujiji by the usual road, owing to 
this war ; but, for a consideration, the son of Nzogera 
was willing to supply us with guides, who would take 
us safely, by a northern road, to Ujiji. 

Everything auguring well for our prospects, we en- 
camped to enjoy the good cheer, for which our troubles 
and privations, during the transit of the Ukawendi 
forests and jungles, had well prepared us. 

Then began a diplomatic course of arguments re- 
specting the quantity and quality of the cloths which 
the son of Nzogera usually demanded from travellers. 
From ten doti, we succeeded in reducing the demand 
to seven and a half doti of Merikani and Kaniki, and 
were successful in procuring the guides we desired. 

I am now going to extract from my diary of the 
march, as, without its aid, I deem it impossible to relate 
fully our various experiences, so as to show them pro- 
perly as they occurred to us ; and as these extracts 
were written and recorded at the close of each day, 
they possess more interest, in my opinion, than a cold 
relation of facts, now toned down in memory. 

October ^\st. Tuesday^ — Camp in jungle. Direc- 
tion of road, north-by-east. Time occupied by march, 
4 hours 15 minutes. 

Our road led E.N.E. for a considerable time after 
leaving the base of the triangular mountain whereon 
the son of Nzogera has established his stronghold, in 



380 now I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

order to avoid a deep and impassable portion of marshy 
that stood between us and the direct route to the 
Malagarazi River. The valley sloped rapidly to this 
marsh, which received in its broad bosom the drainage 
of three extensive ranges. Soon we turned our faces 
north-west, and prepared to cross the marsh ; and the 
guides informed us, as we halted on its eastern bank, 
of a terrible catastrophe which occurred a few yai'ds 
above where we were preparing to cross. They 
told of an Arab and his caravan, consisting of thirty- 
five slaves, who had suddenly sunk out of sight, and who 
were never more heard of. This marsh, as it appeared 
to us, presented a breadth of some hundreds of yards, 
on which grew a close network of grass, with much 
decayed matter mixed up with it. In the centre of this, 
and underneath it, ran a broad, deep, and rapid stream. 
Ab the guides proceeded across, the men stole after them 
with cautious footsteps. As they arrived near the centre 
we began to see this unstable grassy bridge, so curiously 
provided by nature for us, move up and down in heavy 
languid undulations, Kke the swell of the sea after a 
storm. Where the two asses of the Expedition moved, 
the grassy waves rose a foot high ; but suddenly one un- 
fortunate animal plunged his feet through, and as he was 
unable to rise, he soon made a deep hollow, which was 
rapidly filling with water. With the aid of ten men, 
however, we were enabled to lift him bodily up and land 
him on a firmer part, and guiding them both across 
rapidly, the entire cai-avan crossed without accident. 

On arriving at the other side, we struck ofi' to the 
north, and found ourselves in a delightful country, in 
every way suitable for agriculturists. Great rocks rose 
here and there, but in their fissures rose stately trees, 
under whose umhi'age nestled the villages of the people. 



Nov. 1871.] UEAWENDI, UVINZA, AND UHIIA, TO UJTJL 381 

We found the various village elders greedy for cloth, 
but the presence of the younger son of Nzogera's men 
restrained their propensity for extortion. Goats and 
sheep were remarkably cheap, and in good condition ; 
and, consequently, to celebrate our arrival near the 
Malagarazi, a flock of eight goats were slaughtered, 
and distributed to the men. 

November Vst. — Striking north-west, after leaving 
our camp, and descending the slope of a mountain, we 
soon beheld the anxiously looked-for Malagarazi, a 
narrow but deep stream, flowing through a valley pent 
in by lofty mountains. Fisli-eating birds lined the trees 
on its banks ; villages were thickly scattered about. 
Food was abundant, and cheap. 

After travelling along the left bank of the river a 
few miles, we arrived at the settlements recognizing 
Kiala as their ruler. I had anticipated we should be 
able at once to cross the river, but difficulties arose. 
We were told to camp, before any negotiations could 
be entered into. When we demurred, we were informed 
we might cross the river if we wished, but we should 
not be assisted by any Mvinza. 

Being compelled to halt for this day, the tent was 
pitched in the middle of one of the villages, and the 
bales were stored in one of the huts, with four soldiers 
to guard them. After despatching an embassy to 
Kiala, eldest son of the great chief Nzogera, to request 
permission to cross the river as a peaceable caravan, 
Kiala sent word that the white man should cross his 
river after the payment of fifty-six cloths ! Fifty-six 
cloths signified a bale nearly ! Here w^as another 
opportunity for diplomacy. Bombay and Asmani wefe 
empowered to treat with Kiala about the honga, 
but it was not to exceed twenty-five doti. At 6 a.m., 



382 BOW 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE, 

liaviiig spoken for seven hours, the two men returned, 
with the demand for thirteen doti for Nzogera, and ten 
doti for Kiala. Poor Bombay was hoarse, but Asmani 
still smiled; and I relented, congratulating myself 
that the preposterous demand, which was simply 
robbery, was no worse. 

Three hours later another demand was made. Kiala 
had been visited by a couple of chiefs from his father ; 
and the chiefs being told that a white man was at the 
ferry, put in a claim for a couple of guns and a keg of 
gunpowder. But here my patience was exhausted, and 
I declared that they should have to take them by force, 
for I would never consent to be robbed and despoiled 
after any such fasliion. 

Until i 1 P.M., Bombay and Asmani were negotiating 
about this extra demand, arguing, quarrelling, threaten- 
ing, until Bombay declared they would talk him mad if 
it lasted much longer. I told Bombay to take two 
cloths, one for each chief, and, if they did not consider 
it enough, then I should fight. The present was taken, 
and the negotiations were terminated at midnight. 

November 2nd. — Ihata Island, one and a half hour west 
of Kiala's. We arrived before the Island of Ihata, on 
the left bank of the Malagarazi, at 5 p.m. ; the morning 
having been wasted in puerile talk with the owner of 
the canoes at the ferry. The final demand for ferriage 
across was eight yards of cloth and four fundo* of 
sami-sami, or red beads ; which was at once paid. 
Four men, with their loads, were permitted to cross in 
the small, unshapely, and cranky canoes. When the 
boatmen had discharged their canoes of their passengers 
and cargoes^ they were ordered to halt on the other 
side, and, to my astonishment, another demand was 
* 4 fundi = -10 necklaces; 1 fundo being 10 necklaces. 



Nov. 1871.] UKAWENDI, UVINZA, AND UBIIA, TO UJIJI. &8a 

made. The ferrymen had found that two fundo of these 
were of short measure, and two fundo more must be 
paid, otherwise the contract for ferrying us across would 
Le considered null and void. So two fundo more were 
added, but not without demur and " talk," which in 
these lands are necessary. 

Three times the canoes went backwards and forwards, 
when, lo ! another demand was made, with the usual 
clamor and fierce wordy dispute ; this time for five 
khete* for the man w^ho guided us to the ferry, a 
shukka of cloth for a babbler, who had attached him- 
self to the old-womanish Jumah, who did nothing but 
babble and increase the clamor. These demands were 
also settled. 

About sunset we endeavoured to cross the donkeys. 
" Simba," a fine wild Kinyamwezi donkey, went in 
first, with a rope attached to his neck. He had arrived 
at the middle of the stream when we saw him begin to 
struggle — a crocodile had seized him by the throat. 
The poor animal's struggles were terrific. Chowpereh 
was dragging on the rope with all his might, but to no 
use, for the donkey sank, and we saw no more of him. 
The depth of the river at this place was about fifteen 
feet. We had seen the light-brown heads, the glitter- 
ing eyes, and the ridgy backs, hovering about the 
vicinity, but we had nevt?r thought that the beasts would 
advance so near such an exciting scene as the vicinity 
of the ferry presented during the crossing. Saddened 
a little by this loss, we resumed our work, and by 7 p.m. 
we w^ere all across, excepting Bombay and the only 
donkey now left, which was to be brought across in the 
morning, when the crocodiles should have deserted the 
river. 

* Necklaces. 



884 HOW I FO UND LI VING STONE. 

JVoceniber 3rd. — What contention have we not been a 
witness to these last three days ! What anxiety have 
we not suffered ever since our arrival in Uvinza ! The 
Wavinza are worse than the Wagogo, and their greed is 
more insatiable. We got the donkey across with the 
aid of a m^-anga, or medicine man, who spat some 
chewed -leaves of a tree which grows close to the stream 
over him. He informed me he could cross the river 
at any time, day or night, after rubbing his body with 
these chewed leaves, which he believed to be a most 
potent medicine. 

About 10 A.M. appeared from the direction of Ujiji 
a caravan of eighty Wagulilia, a tribe which occupies a 
tract of country on the south-western side of tlic Lake 
Tangauika. We asked the news, and were told a 
white man had just arrived at Ujiji from Manyuema, 
This news startled us all. 

" A white man ? " we asked. 

*' Yes, a white man," they replied. 

'' How is he dressed ?" 

'' Like the master," they answered, referring to me. 

*' Is he young, or old ?" 

" He is old. He has white hair on his face, and 
is sick." 

" Where has he come from ?" 

" From a very far country away beyond Uguhha, 
called Manyuema." 

" Lideed ! and is he stopping at Ujiji now ?" 

" Yes, we saw him about eight days ago." 

" Do you think he will stop there until we see 
him ?" 

*^ Sl(jue " (don't know). 

" Was lie ever at Ujiji before ?" 

•' Yes, he went away a long time ago." 



Nov. 1871.] UKAWENDl, UVINZA, AND UHHA, TO I'JIJI. 385 

Hurrah ! This is Livingstone ! He must be 
Livingstone! He can be no other; but still ;— he 
may be some one else — some one from the West Coast 
■ — or perhaps he is Baker ! No ; Baker has no white 
hair on his face. But we must now march quick, lest 
he hears we are coming, and runs away. 

I addressed my men, and asked them if they were 
wiUing to march to Ujiji without a single halt, and 
then promised them, if they acceded to my wishes, two 
doti each man. All answered in the affirmative, almost 
as much rejoiced as I was myself. But I was madly 
rejoiced ; intensely eager to resolve the burning ques- 
tion, " Is it Dr. David Livingstone ?" God grant me 
patience, but I do wish there was a railroad, or, at least, 
horses in this country. With a horse I could reach 
Ujiji in about twelve hours. 

We set out at once from the banks of the Malagarazl, 
accompanied by two guides furnished us by Usenge, 
the old man of the ferry, who, now that we had crossed, 
showed himself more amiably disposed to us. We 
arrived at the village of Isinga, Sultan Katalambula, 
after a little over an hour's march across a saline 
plain, but which as we advanced into the interior 
became fertile and productive. We were warned after 
camping that to-morrow's march would have to be 
made with caution, as a band of Wavinza, under 
Makumbi, a great chief of Nzogera's, were returning 
from war, and it was the custom of Makumbi to leave 
nothing behind him after a victory. Intoxicated with 
success, he attacked even the villages of his own tribe, 
capturing the live stock — slaves and cattle. The result 
of a month's campaign against Lokanda-Mira ^vas the 
destruction of two villages, the killing of one of the 
children of that chief, and the slaughter of several men • 

2 c 



386 BOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

Makiimbi also lost five men from thirst during the 
crossing of a saline desert soutli of the Malagarazi. 

November 4if A.— Started early with great caution, 
maintaining deep silence. The guides were sent for- 
ward, one two hundred yards ahead of the other, that 
we might be warned in time. The first part of the 
march was through a thin jungle of dwarf trees, which 
got thinner and thinner until finally it vanished alto- 
gether, and we had entered Uhha— a plain countiy. 
Tillages were visible by the score among the tall 
bleached stalks of dourra and maize. Sometimes three, 
sometimes five, ten, or twenty beehive-shaped huts 
formed a village. The Wahha were evidently living in 
perfect security, for not one village amongst them all 
was surrounded with the customary defence of an 
African village. A narrow diy ditch formed the 
only boundary between Uhha and Uvinza. On 
entering Uhha, all danger from Makumbi vanished. 

We halted at Kawanga, the chief of which lost uo 
time in making us understand that he was the great 
Mutware of Kimenyi under the king, and that he was 
the tribute gatherer for his Kiha majesty. He declared 
that he was the only one in Kimenyi — an eastern divi- 
sion of Uhha — who could demand tribute ; and that it 
would be very satisfactory to him, and a saving of 
trouble to ourselves, if we settled his claim of twelve 
doti of good cloths at once. We did not think it the 
best way of proceeding, knowing as we did the 
character of the native African j so we at once pro- 
ceeded to diminish this demand ; but, after six hours^ 
hot argument, the Mutware only reduced it by two. 
This claim was then settled, upon the understanding 
that we should be allowed to travel through Uhha as 
far as the Rusugi River without being further mulcted. 



Nov, 1871.] UKAWENDI, UVINZA, AND UBffA, TO UJTJl. 38? 

November f)th, — Leaving Kawanga early in the morn- 
ing, and continuing our march over the boundless plains, 
which were bleached white by the hot equatorial sun, 
we were marching westward full of jjleasaiit anti- 
cipations that we were nearing the end of our troubles, 
joyfully congratulating ourselves that within five days 
we sliould see that which I had come so far from 
civilisation, and through so many difficulties, to see, and 
were about passing a cluster of vilhiges, with all the 
confidence which men possess against whom no one 
had further claim or a word to say, when I noticed 
two men darting from a group of natives who were 
watching us, and running towards the head of the 
Expedition, with the object, evidently, of preventing 
further progress. 

The caravan stopped, and I walked forw^ard to 
ascertain tlie cause from the two natives. I was 
greeted politely by the two Wahha with the usual 
" Yaml)Os," and was then asked, 

*' Wliy does the white man pass by the village of 
the King of Uhha witliout salutation and a gift ? 
Does not the white man know there lives a king in 
Uhha, to whom the Wangwana and Arabs pay some- 
thing for right of passage ?" 

<* Why, we paid last night to the chief of Kawanga^ 
who informed us that he was the man deputed by tlie 
King of Uhha to collect the toll." 

" How much did you pay ?'* 

" Ten doti of good cloth/' 

" Are you sure ?" 

'' Quite sure. If you ask him, he will tell you so." 

** Well," said one of the Wahha, a fine, handsome, 
intelligent-looking youth, ** it is our duty to the King 
to halt you here until we find out the truth of this. 



888 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

Will you walk to our village, and rest yourselves 
under the shade of our trees until we can send mes- 
sengers to Kawanga ?" 

^^ No ; the sun is but an hour high, and we have far 
to travel ; but, in order to show you we do not seek to 
pass through your country without doing that which is 
right, we will rest where we now stand, and we will 
send with your messengers two of our soldiers, who 
will show you the man to whom we paid the cloth." 

The messengers departed ; but, in the meantime, the 
handsome youth, who turned out to be the nephew of 
the King, whispered some order to a lad, who imme- 
diately hastened away, with the speed of an antelope, to 
the cluster of villages which we had just passed. The 
result of this errand, as we saw in a short time, was the 
approach of a body of warriors, about fifty in number, 
headed by a tall, fine-looking man, who was dressed in 
a crimson robe called Joho, two ends of which were 
tied in a knot over the left shoulder ; a new piece of 
American sheeting was folded like a turban around his 
head, and a large curved piece of polished ivory was 
suspended to his neck. He and his people were all 
armed with spears, and bows and arrows, and their 
advance was marked with a deliberation that showed 
they felt perfect confidence in any issue that might 
transpire. 

We were halted on the eastern side of the Pombwe 
stream, near the village of Lukomo, in Kimenyi, Uhha. 

The gorgeously-dressed chief was a remarkable man 
in appearance. His face was oval in form, high cheek- 
bones, eyes deeply sunk, a prominent and bold fore- 
head, a fine nose, and a well-cut mouth ; he was tall in 
figure, and perfectly symmetrical. 

When near to us, he hailed me with the words, 



Nov. 1871.] UKAWENDI, UVINZA, AND UHEA, TO UJIJI. 389 

" Yambo, bana ? — How do you do, master ?" in quite 
a cordial tone. 

I replied cordially also, *' Yambo, mutware ? — How 
do you do, chief ?" 

We, myself and men, interchanged ** Yambos " with 
his warriors ; and there was nothing in our first intro- 
duction to indicate that the meeting was of a hostile 
character. 

The chief seated himself, his haunches resting on his 
heels, laying down his bow and arrows by his side:; 
his men did likewise. 

1 seated myself on a bale, and each of my men sat 
down on their loads, forming quite a semicircle. The 
Wahha slightly outnumbered my party ; but, while 
they were only armed with bows and arrows, spears, 
and knob-sticks, we were armed with rifles, muskets, 
revolvers, pistols, and hatchets. 

All were seated, and deep silence was maintained by 
the assembly. The great plains around us were as 
still in this bright noon as if they were deserted of 
all living creatures. Then the chief spoke : 

" I am Mionvu, the great Mutware of Kimenyi, and 
am next to the King, who lives yonder," pointing to a 
large village near some naked hills about ten miles to 
the north. " I have come to talk with the white man. 
It has always been the custom of the Arabs and the 
Wangwana to make a present to the King when they 
pass through his country. Does not the white man 
mean to pay the King's dues? Why does the white 
man halt in the road? Why will he not enter the 
village of Lukomo, where there is food and shade — 
where we can discuss this thing quietly ? Does the 
white man mean to fight ? I know well he is stronger 
than we are. His men have guns, and the Wahha 



390 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

have but bows and arrows, and spears; but Ulilia ia 
large, and our villages are many. Let him look about 
him everywhere — all is Uhha, and our couutiy extends 
much further than he can see or walk in a day. The 
King of Uhlia is strong : yet he wishes friendsln'p only 
with the white man. Will the white man have war or 
peace ?" 

A deep murmur of assent followed this speech of 
Mionvu from his people, and disapprobation, blended 
with a certain uneasiness, from my men. When about 
replying, the words of General Sherman, which I 
heard him utter to the chiefs of the Arapahoes and 
Cheyennes at North Platte, in 1867, came to my mind ; 
and something of their spirit I embodied in my reply 
to Mionvu, Mutware of Kimenyi. 

" Mionvu, the great Mutware, asks me if I have 
come for war. When did Mionvu ever hear of white 
men warring against black men ? Mionvu must under- 
strind that the white men are different from the black. 
White men do not leave their country to fight the 
black people, neither do they come here to buy ivory 
or slaves. They come to make friends with black 
people ; they come to search for rivers, and lakes, and 
mountains ; they come to discover what countries, what 
peoples, what rivers, what lakes, what forests, what 
plains, what mountains and hills are in your country ; 
to know the different animals that are in the land of 
the black people, that, when they go back, they 
may tell the white kings, and men, and children, 
wdiat they have seen and heard in the land so far 
from them. The white people are different from the 
Arabs and Wangwana ; the white people know every- 
thing, and are very strong. When they fight, the 
Arabs and the Wangwana run away. We have great 



Nov. 1871.] UKA WENDT, UVINZA, AND UIIUA, TO UJIJL 391 

guns which thunder, and when they shoot the earth 
trembles ; we have guns which carry bullets further than 
you can see: even with these little things" (pointing 
to my revolvers) " I could kill ten men quicker than 
you could count. We are stronger than the Waliha. 
Mionvu has not spoken the truth, yet we do not wish 
to fight. I could kill Mionvu now, yet I talk to him 
as to a friend. I wish to be a friend to Mionvu, and 
to all black people. Will Mionvu say what I can 
do for him ?" 

Jls these words were translated to him — imperfectly, 
I suppose, but still, intelligibly — the faces of the Wahha 
showed how well they appreciated them. Once or 
twice I thought I detected something like fear, but my 
assertions that I desired peace and friendship with 
them soon obliterated all such feelings. 

Mionvu replied : 

" The white man tells me he is friendly. Why does 
he not come to our village ? Why does he stop on the 
road ? The sun is hot. Mionvu will not speak here 
any more. If the white man is a friend he will come 
to the village." 

" We must stop now. It is noon. You have broken 
our march. We will go and camp in your village," I 
said, at the same time rising and pointing to the men 
to take up their loads. 

We were compelled to camp ; there was no help for 
it ; the messengers had not returned from Kawanga. 
Having ari'ived in his village, Mionvu had cast himself 
at full length under the scanty shade afforded by a few 
trees within the boma. About 2 p.m. the messengers 
returned, saying it was true the chief of Kawanga 
had taken ten cloths ; not, however for the King of 
Uhha, but for himself! 



392 HOW 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

Mionvu, who evidently was keen-witted, and knev? 
perfe'ctly what he was about, now roused himself, and 
began to make miniature faggots of thin canes, ten in 
each faggot, and shortly he presented ten of these small 
bundles, which together contained one hundred, to me. 
saying eacli stick represented a cloth, and the amount 
of the " honga " required by the King of Uhha was 
ONE HUNDRED CLOTHS ! — nearly two bales ! 

Recovering from our astonishment, which was almost 
indescribable, we offered ten. 

" Ten ! to the King of Uhha ! Impossible. You do 
not stir from Lukomo until you pay us one hundred !" 
exclaimed Mionvu, in a significant manner. 

I returned no answer, but went to my hut, which 
Mionvu had cleared for my use, and Bombay, Asmani, 
Mabruki, and Chowpereh were invited to come to me 
for consultation. Upon my asking them if we could 
not fight our way through Uhha, they became terror- 
stricken, and Bombay, in imploring accents, asked me 
to think well what I was about to do, because it was 
useless to enter on a war with the Wahha. " Uhlia is 
all a plain country ; we cannot hide anywhere. Every 
village will rise all about us, and how can forty-five 
men fight thousands of people ? They would kill us all 
in a few minutes, and how would you ever reach Ujiji 
if you died ? Think of it, my dear master, and do not 
throw your life away for a few rags of cloth.'' 

" Well, but, Bombay, this is robbery. Shall we submit 
to be robbed? Shall we give this fellow every tiling 
he asks? He might as well ask me for all the cloth, 
and all my guns, without letting him see that we can 
fight. I can kill Mionvu and his principal men myself, 
and you can slay all those howlers out there wiihout 
much trouble. If Mionvu and his principal were dead, 



^I0V. 1871.] UKAWENDI, UVINZA, AND UHHA, TO UJTJI. 3«J3 

we should not be troubled much, and we could strike 
south to the Malagarazi, and go west to Ujiji." 

" No, no, dear master, don't think of it for a moment. 
If we went near the Malagarazi we should come across 
Lokanda-Mira." 

'' Well, then, we will go north." 

" Up that way Uhha extends far ; and beyond Uhha 
are the Watuta.'* 

" Well, then, say what we shall do. We must do 
sometliing ; but we must not be robbed." 

^' Pay Mionvu what he asks, and let us go away from 
here. This is the last place we shall have to pay. And 
in four days we shall be in Ujiji." 

" Did Mionvu tell you that this is the last time we 
would have to pay ?" 

" He did, indeed." 

"What do you say, Asmani? Shall we fight or 

?»» 

Armani's face wore the usual smile, but he replied, 
" I am afraid we must pay. This is positively the last 
time." 

"And you, Cliowpereh?" 

" Pay, bana ; it is better to get along quietly in this 
country. If we were strong enough they would pay 
us. Ah, if we had only two hundred guns, how these 
Wahha would run !" 

" What do you say, Mabruki?" 

" Ah, master, dear master ; it is very hard, and 
these people are great robbers. I would like to chop 
their heads off, all; so I would. But you bad better 
pay. Tin's is the last time; and what are one hundred 
cloths to you ?" 

" AVell, then, Bombay and Asmani, go to Mionvu, 
and otier him twenty. If he will not take twenty, 



394 BOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

give hira thirty. If he refuses thirty, give him forty; 
then go up to eighty, slowly. Make plenty of talk ; 
not one doti more. I swear to you I will shoot Mionvu 
if he demands more than eighty. Go, and remember 
to be wise !" 

I will cut the matter short. At 9 p.m. sixty-four doti 
were handed over to Mionvu, for the King of Ulilia ; six 
doti for himself, and five doti for his sub ; altogether 
seventy-five doti — a bale and a quarter ! No sooner 
had we paid than they began to fight amongst them- 
selves over the booty, and I was in hopes that the 
factions would proceed to battle, that I might have 
good excuse for leaving them, and plunging south to 
the jungle tliat I believed existed there, by which 
means, under its friendly cover, we might strike west. 
But no, it was only a verbose war, which portended 
nothing more than a noisy clamor. 

November 6th. — At dawn we were on the road, very 
silent and sad. Our stock of cloth w^as much diminislied ; 
we had nine bales left, sufficient to have taken us to the 
Atlantic Ocean— aided by the beads, which were yet 
untouched — if we practised economy. If I met many 
more like Mionvu I had not enough to take me 
to Ujiji, and, though we were said to be so near, 
Livingstone seemed to me just as far as ever. 

We crossed the Pombwe, and then struck across a 
slowly-undulating plain rising gradually to mountains 
on our right, and on our left sinking towards the valley 
of the Malaga razi, which river was about twenty miles 
away. Villages rose to our view" everywhere. Food 
was cheap, milk was plentiful, and the butter good. 

After a four hours' march, we crossed the Kanengi 
River, and entered the boma of Kahirigi, inhabited 
by several Watusi and Wahha. Here, we were told, 



Nov. 1871.] UKAWE^WI, UVINZA, AND UHUA, TO UJIJI. 305 

lived the King of Uhlia's brother. This ami oini cement 
was anything but welcome, and I began to suspect I 
had fiiUen into another hornet's nest. We had not 
rested tw^o hours before two Wangwana entered my 
tent, who were slaves of Thani bin Abdullah, our 
dandified friend of Unyanyembe. These men came, on 
the part of the king's brother, to claim the Hoxga ! 
The king's brother demanded tlnrty doti ! Half a bale ! 

If I only dared publish all the wild, furious thoughts 
that raged in my mind when this was announced I 
should be shocked myself at some future calm moment, 
I dare say. But I was angry. Angry ! angry is not 
the word. I was savage — rendered despeiately savage ! 
Able, ready, and willing to fight and die, but not to be 
halted by a set of miserable naked robbers ! Within 
sight of Ujiji, one may almost say — but four days 
march from this white man whom I take to be Living- 
stone, unless there is a duplicate of him travelling 
about in these countries. Merciful Providence ! What 
shall I do ? 

We had been told by Mionvu that the honga of 
Uhha was settled — and now here is another demand 
from the King's brother ! It is the second tiine the lie 
has been told, and we have twice been deceived. We 
shall be deceived no more. 

These two men informed us there were five more 
chiefs, living but twu hours from each other, who would 
exact tribute, or black-mail, like those we had seen. 
Knowing this much, I felt a certain calm. It was far 
better to know the worst at once. Five more chiefs 
with their demands would assuredly ruin us. in view 
of which, what is to be done ? How am I to reach 
Livingstone, without being beggared ? 

Dismissing the men, I called Bombay, and told him 



39fi ffOW J FOUND LIVINGSTONE, 

to assist Asmani in settling the honga — ^'as cbeaplj? 
as possible." I then lit my pipe, put on the cap oi 
consideration, and began to think. Within half an hour. 
I had made a plan, which was to be attempted to be put 
in execution that very night, 

I summoned the two slaves of Thani bin Abdullah, 
after the honga had been settled to everybody's satis- 
faction — though the profoundest casuistries and diplo- 
matic arguments failed to reduce it lower than twenty- 
six doti — and began asking them about the possibility 
of evading the tribute-taking Wahha ahead. 

This rather astonished them at first, and they declared 
it to be impossible ; but, finally, after being pressed, 
they replied, that one of their number should guide us 
at midnight, or a little after, into the jungle which 
grew on the frontiers of Uhha and Uvinza. By 
keeping a direct west course through this jungle until 
we came to Ukaranga we might be enabled — we were 
told — to travel through Uhha without further trouble. 
If I were willing to pay the guide twelve doti, and if I 
were able to impose silence on my people while passing 
through the sleeping village, the guide was positive I 
could reach Ujiji without paying another doti. It is 
needless to add, that I accepted the proffered assistance 
at such a price with joy. 

But there was much to be done. Provisions were to 
be purchased, sufficient to last four days, for the tramp 
through the jungle, and men were at once sent with 
cloth to purchase grain at any price. Fortune favoured 
us, for before 8 p.m. we had enough for six days. 

November It/i. — I did not go to sleep at all last 
night, but a little after midnight, as the moon was 
beginning to show itself, by gangs of four, the men 
stole quietly out of the village ; and by 3 a.m. the entire 



Nov. 1871.] UKAWENDI, UVINZA, AND UHHA, TO UJIJI. 397 

Expedition was outside the boma, and not the sh'ghtest 
alarm had been made. After whistHng to the new 
guide, the Expedition began to move in a southern 
direction along the right bank of the Kanengi Kiver, 
After an hour's march in this direction, we struck 
west, across the grassy plain, and maintained it, despite 
the obstacles we encountered, which were sore enough 
to naked men. The bright moon lighted our path : 
dark clouds now and then cast immense long shadows 
over the deserted and silent plains, and the moonbeams 
were almost obscured, and at such times our position 
seemed awful — 

" Till the moon, 
Rising in clouded majesty, at length, 
Apparent queen, unveiled her peerless light, 
And o'er the dark her silver mantle thi-ew." 

Bravely toiled the men, without murmur, though their 
legs were bleeding from the cruel grass. " Ambrosial 
morn *' at last appeared, with all its beautiful and lovely 
features. Heaven was born anew to us, with com- 
forting omens and cheery promise. The men^ though 
fatigued at the unusual travel, sped forward with quicker 
pace as dayhght broke, until, at 8 a.m., we sighted the 
swift Rusugi River, when a halt was ordered in a 
clump of jungle near it, for breakfast and rest. Both 
banks of the river were alive with buffjilo, eland, and 
antelope, but, though the sight was very tempting^ we 
did not fire, because we dared not. The report of a gun 
would have alarmed the whole country. I preferred 
my coffee, and the contentment which my mind expe- 
rienced at our success. 

An hour after we had rested, some natives, carrying 
salt from the Malagarazi, were seen coming up the right 
bank of the river. When abreast of our hiding-place 



398 EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, 

they detected us, and dropping their salt-bags, thej 
took to their heels at once, shouting out as they ran, to 
alarm some villages that appeared about four miles 
north of us. The men were immediately ordered to 
take up their loads, and in a few minutes we had crossed 
the Rusugi, and were making direct for a bamboo 
jungle that appeared in our front. Almost as soon as 
we entered, a weak-brained woman raised a series ol 
piercing yells. The men were appalled at this noisy 
demc nstration, which would call down upon our heads 
the vengeance of the Wahha for evading the tribute, to 
which they thought themselves entitled. In half an 
hour we should have hundreds of howling savages 
about us in the jungle, and probably a general mas- 
sacre would ensue. The woman screamed fearfully, 
again and again, for no cause whatever. Some of the 
men, with the instinct of self-preservation, at once 
dropped their bales and loads, and vanished into the 
jungle. The guide came rushing back to me, imploring 
me to stop her noise. The woman's husband, livid with 
rage and fear, drew his sword, and asked my permission 
to cut her head off at once. Had I given the least 
signal, the woman had paid with her life for her folly. 
I attempted to hush her cries by putting my hand over 
her mouth, but she violently wrestled with me, and 
continued her cries worse than ever. There remained 
nothing else for me to do but try the virtue of my whip 
over her shoulders. I asked her to desist after the first 
blow. " No !" She continued her insane cries with in- 
creased force and volume. Again my whip descended 
on her shoulders. " No, no, no !" Another blow. '* Will 
you hush ?" *' No, no, no !" louder and louder she cried, 
and faster and faster I showered the blows for the 
taming of this shrew. However, seeing I was as 



I 



Nov. 1871.] UKAWENDI, UVINZA, AND UIIHA, TO UJIJI. 399 

determined to flog as she was to ciy, she desisted belbre 
the tenth blow, and became silent. A cloth was folded 
over her mouth, and her arms w^ere tied behind her ; 
and in a few moments, the runaways having returned 
to their duty, the Expedition moved forward again with 
redoubled pace. On, on, we kept steadily until, at 1 p.m., 
we sighted the little lake of Musunya, as wearied as 
possible with our nine hours' march. 

Lake Musunya is one of the many circular basins 
found in this part of Uhha. There was quite a group 
of them. The more correct term for these lakes would 
be immense pools. In the Masika season, Lake Mu- 
sunya must extend to three or four miles in length by 
two in breadth. It swarms with hippopotami, and its 
shores abound with noble game. 

We were very quiet, as may be imagined, in our 
bivouac ; neither tent nor hut was raised, nor was fire 
kindled, so that^ in case of pursuit, we could move off 
without delay. I kept my Winchester rifle (the gift of 
my friend Mr. Morris, and a rare gift it was for such a 
crisis) with its magazine full, and two hundred car- 
tridges in a bag slung over my shoulders. PJach 
soldier's gun was also ready and loaded, and we retired 
to sleep our fatigues off w^ith a feeling of perfect 
security. 

November Sth. — Long before dawn appeared, we were 
on the march, and, as daylight broke, we emerged from 
the bamboo jungle, and struck across the naked plain 
of Uhha, once more passing several large pools by the 
way — far-embracing prospects of undulating country, 
with here and there a characteristic cluijip of trees 
relieving the general nudity of the whole. Hour after 
hour we toiled on, across the rolling land waves, the 
sun shining with all his wonted African fervor, but 



400 EOW I FOUND LIVING STONK 

with its heat slightly tempered by the welcome breezes^ 
which came laden with the fragrance of young grass, 
and perfume of strange flowers of various hues, that 
flecked the otherwise pale-green sheet which extended 
.<o far around us. 

We arrived at the Rugufa Eiver — not the Ukawend: 
Rugufu, but the northern stream of that name, a tri- 
butary of the Malagarazi. It was a broad shallow 
stream, and sluggish, with an almost imperceptible 
flow south-west. While we halted in the deep shade 
afibrded by a dense clump of jungle, close to the right 
bank, resting awhile before continuing our journey, I 
distinctly heard a sound as of distant thunder in the 
west. Upon asking if it were thunder, I was told it was 
Kabogo. 

" Kabogo ? what is that ?" 

" It is a great mountain on the other side of the 
Tanganika, full of deep holes, into which the water 
rolls ; and when there is wind on the Tanganika, there 
is a sound like mvuha (thunder). Many boats have 
been lost there, and it is a custom with Arabs and 
natives to throw cloth — Merikani and Kaniki — and 
especially white (Merikani) beads, to appease the 
mulungu (god) of tlie lake. Those who throw beads 
generally get past without trouble, but those who do 
not throw beads into the lake get lost, and are drowned. 
Oh, it is a dreadful place 1" This story was told me by 
the ever-smiling guide Asmani, and was corroborated 
by other former mariners of the lake whom I had 
with me. 

At the least, this place where we halted for dinner, 
on the banks of the Rugufu River, is eighteen and 
a half hours, or forty-six miles, from Ujiji ; and, as 
Kabogo is said to be near Uguhha, it must be over 



Nov. 1871.] UKAWENDT, UVINZA, AND UEHA, TO UJIJL 401 

sixty miles from Ujiji ; therefore tlie sound of the thim- 
(lering surf, which is said to roll into the caves of 
Kabogo, was heard by us at a distance of over one 
hundred miles away from them. 

Continuing our journey for three hours longer, 
through thin forests, over extensive beds of primitive 
rock, among fields of large boulders thickly strewn 
about, passing by numerous herds of buffalo, giraffe, and 
zebra, over a quaking quagmire which resembled peat, 
we arrived at the small stream of Sunuzzi, to a camp- 
ing place only a mile removed from a large settlement 
of Wahha. But we were buried in the depths of a 
great forest — no road was in the vicinity, no noise was 
made, deep silence was preserved ; nor were fires lit. 
We might therefore rest tranquilly secure, certain that 
we should not be disturbed. To-morrow morning the 
kirangozi has promised we shall be out of Uhha, and if 
we travel on to Niamtaga, in Ukaranga, the same day, 
the next day would see us in Ujiji. Patience, my soul 1 
A few hours more, then the end of all this will be 
known ! I shall be face to face with that white man 
with the white hairs on his face, whoever he is ! 

November ^tli. — Two hours before dawn we left our 
camp on the Sunuzzi River, and struck through the 
forest in a north-by-west direction, having muzzled our 
goats previously, lest, by their bleating, they might 
betray us. This was a mistake which might have 
ended tragically, for just as the eastern sky began to 
assume a pale greyish tint, we emerged from the jungle 
on the high road. The guide thought we had passed 
Uhha, and set up a shout which was echoed by every 
member of the caravan, and marched onward with new 
vigor and increased energy, when plump we came 
to the outskirts of a village, the inhabitants of which 

2 D 



402 EOW I FO UND LI VING STONE, 

were beginning to stir. Silence was called for at otice, 
and the Expedition halted immediately. I walked 
forward to the front to advise with the guide. He did 
not know what to do. There was no time to consider, 
so I ordered the goats to be slaughtered and left on the 
road, and the guide to push on boldly tlirough the 
village. The chickens also had their throats cut ; after 
which the Expedition resumed the march quickly and 
silently, led by the guide, who had orders to plunge 
into the jungle south of the road. 1 staid until the 
last man had disappeared ; then, after preparing my 
Winchester, brought up the rear, followed by my gun- 
bearers with their stock of ammunition. As we were 
about disappearing beyond the last hut, a man darted 
out of his hut, and uttered an exclamation of alarm, and 
loud voices were heard as if in dispute. But in a short 
time we were in the depths of the jungle, hurrying 
away from the road in a southern direction, and edging 
slightly westward. Once T thought we were pursued, 
and I halted behind a tree to check our foes if they 
persisted in following us ; but a few minutes proved to 
me that we were not pursued. After half-an-hour's 
march we again turned our faces westward. It was 
broad daylight now, and our eyes were delighted with 
most picturesque and sequestered little valleys, where 
wild fruit-trees grew, and rare flowers blossomed, and 
tiny brooks tumbled over polished pebbles — where all 
was bright and beautiful — until, finally, wading through 
one pretty pure streamlet, whose soft murmurs we took 
for a gentle welcome, we passed the boundary of 
wicked Uhha, and had entered Ukaranga ! — an event 
that was hailed with extravagant shouts of joy. 

Presently we found the smooth road, and we trod gaily 
with elastic steps, with limbs quickened for the march 



Nov. 1871.] VKAWENDI, UVJNZA, AND UHHA, TO UJIJL 405 

which we all knew to be drawing near its end. What 
cared we now for the difficulties we had encountered — 
for the rough and cruel forests, for the thorny thickets 
and hurtful grass, for the jangle of all savagedom, of 
which we had been the joyless audience ! To-morrow !, 
Ay, the great day draws nigh, and we may well, 
laugh and sing while in this triumphant mood. We 
have been sorely tried ; we have been angry with each 
other when vexed by troubles, but we forget all these 
now, and there is no face but is radiant with the 
happiness we have all deserved. 

We made a short halt at noon, for rest and refresh- 
ment. I was shown the hills from which the Tanganika 
could be seen, which bounded the valley of the Liuche 
on the east. I could not contain myself at the sight of 
them. Even with this short halt I was restless and 
unsatisfied. We resumed the march again. I spurred 
my men forward with the promise that to-morrow 
should see their reward. Fish and beer should be 
given them, as much as they could eat and drink. 

We were in sight of the villages of the Wakaranga ; 
the people caught sight of us, and manifested consider- 
able excitement. I sent men ahead to reassure them, 
and they came forward to greet us. This was so new 
and welcome to us, so different from the turbulent 
Wavinza and the black-mailers of Uhha, that we were 
melted. But we had no time to loiter by the way to 
indulge our joy. I was impelled onward by my almost 
uncontrollable feelings. I wished to resolve my doubts 
and fears. Was he still there ? Had he heard of my 
coming ? Would he fly ? 

How beautiful Ukaranga appears ! The green hills are 
crowned by clusters of straw-thatched cones. The hills 
rise and fall; here denuded and cultivated, there in 



404 ' HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

pasturage, here timbered, yonder swarming with huts, 
The country has somewhat the aspect of Maryland. 

We cross the Mkuti, a glorious little river ! We 
ascend the opposite bank, and stride through the forest 
like men who have done a deed of which they may be 
proud. We have already travelled nine hours, and the 
Run is sinking rapidly towards the west ; yet, appa- 
rently, we are not fatigued. 

We reach the outskirts of Niamtaga, and we hear 
drums beat. The people are flying into the woods ; 
they desert their villages, for they take us to be Ruga- 
Ruga — the forest thieves of Mirambo, wlio, after con- 
quering the Arabs of Unyanyembe, are coming to 
fight the Arabs of Ujiji. Even the King flies from his 
village, and every man, woman, and child, terror- 
stricken, follows him. We enter into it and quietly 
take possession, and my tent is set. Finally, the word 
is bruited about that we are Wangwana, from Unyan- 
yembe. 

*' Well, then, is Mirambo dead ?" they ask. 

" No," we answer. 

" Well, how did you come to Ukaranga ?" 

'^ By way of Ukonongo, Ukawendi, and Uhha." 

"Oh — hi-le!" Then they laugh heartily at their 
fright, and begin to make excuses. The King is intro- 
duced to me, and he says he had only gone to the 
woods in order to attack us again — he meant to have 
come back and killed us all, if we had been Ruga- 
Ruga. But then we know the poor King was terribly 
frightened, and would never have dared to return, had 
we been Ruga-Ruga — not he. We are not, however, 
in a mood to quarrel with him about an idiomatic 
phrase peculiar to him, but rather take him by the 
baud and shake it well, and say we are so very glad to 



Nov. 1871.] UKAWENDI, UVINZA, AND UIIIIA, TO UJIJL 408 

see liim. x\iid he shares in our pleasure, and imme- 
diately three of the fattest sheep, pots of beer, flour, 
and honey are brought to us as a gift, and 1 make hiju 
happier still with two of the finest cloths I have in 
my bales ; and thus a friendly pact is entered into 
between us. 

"While I write my diary of tliis day's proceedings, 1 
tell Sehm to lay out my new flannel suit, to oil my 
boots, to clialk my helmet, and fold a new puggaree 
around it, that I may make as presentable an appeai- 
ance as possible before the white man with the grqy 
beard, and before the Arabs of Ujiji ; for the clothes I 
have worn through jungle and forest are in tatters. 
Good-iiiglit ; only let one day come again, and we shall 
see wliat we shall see. 

November iOth. Friday. — The 236th day from Baga- 
moyo, and the 51st day from Unyanyembe. General 
direction to Ujiji, west- by-south. Time of march, sijc 
hours. 

It is a happy, glorious morning. The air is fresh 
and cool. The sky lovingly smiles on the earth and 
her children. The deep woods are crowned in bright 
green leafage; the water of the Mkuti, rushing under 
the emerald shade afforded by the bearded banks, seema 
to challenge us for the race to Ujiji, with its continuons 
brawl. 

We are all outside the village cane fence, every man 
of us looking as spruce, as neat, and happy as when we 
embarked on the dhows at Zanzibar, which seems to ua 
to ha,ve been ages ago — we have witnessed and ex- 
perienced so much. 

" P'orwanl !" 

"Ay Wallah, ay Wallah, bana yango !" and the light- 
hearted braves stride away at a rate which must soon 



406 MOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

bring us within view of Ujiji. We ascend a hill over- 
grown with bamboo, descend into a ravine through 
which dashes an impetuous little torrent, ascend 
another short hill, then, along a smooth footpath 
running across the slope of a long ridge, we push 
on as only eager, light-hearted men can do. 

In two hours I am warned to prepare for a view of 
the Tanganika, for, from the top of a steep mountain 
the kirangozi says I can see it. I almost vent the 
feelings of my heart in cries. But wait, we must 
behold it first. And we press forward and up the hill 
breathlessly, lest tlie grand scene hasten away. We 
are at last on the summit. Ah ! not yet can it be seen. 
A little further on — just yonder, oh ! there it is — a 
silvery gleam. I merely catch sight of it between the 
trees, and — but here it is at last ! True — the Tanga- 
nika ! and there are the blue-black mountains of 
Ugoma and Ukaramba. An immense broad sheet, a 
burnished bed of silver — lucid canopy of blue above — 
lofty mountains are its valances, palm forests form its 
fringes ! Tlie Tanganika ! — Hurrah ! and the men 
respond to the exultant cry of the Anglo-Saxon with 
the lungs of Stentors, and the great forests and the 
hills seem to share in our triumph. 

" Was this the place where Burton and SpeKC stood, 
Bombay, when they saw the lake first ?'* 

" I don't remember, master ; it was somewhere about 
here, I think." 

" Poor fellows ! The one was half-paralyzed, the 
other half-blind," said Sir Roderick Murchison, when 
he described Burton and Speke's arrival in view of the 
Tanganika. 

And I ? Well, I am so happy that, were I quite 
paralyzed and blinded, I think that at this supreme 



Nov. 1871.] UKAWENDly UVINZA, AND UHIJA, TO UJIJL 407 

moment I could take up my bed aud walk, and 
all blindness would cease at once. Fortunately, how- 
ever, I am quite well ; I have not suffered a day's 
sickness since the day I left Unyanyembe. How 
much would Shaw be willing to give to be in my place 
now ? Who is happiest — he, revelling in the luxuries 
of Unyanyembe, or I, standing on the smnmit of this 
mountain, looking down with glad eyes and proud heart 
on the Tanganika ? 

We are descending the western slope of the mountain, 
with the valley of the Liuche before us. Something 
like an hour before noon we have gained the thick 
matete brake, which grows on both banks of the river ; 
we wade through the clear stream, arrive on the other 
side, emerge out of the brake, and the gardens of the 
Wajiji are around us — a perfect marvel of vegetable 
wealth. Details escape my hasty and partial obser- 
vation. I am almost overpowered with my own emo- 
tions. I notice the graceful palms, neat plots, green 
with vegetable plants, and small villages surrounded 
with frail fences of the matete-cane. 

We push on rapidly, lest the news of our coming 
might reach the people of Bunder Ujiji before we come 
in sight, and are ready for them. We halt at a little 
brook, then ascend the long slope of a naked ridge, the 
very last of the myriads we have crossed. This alone 
prevents us from seeing the lake in all its vastness. 
We arrive at the summit, travel across and arrive at its 
western rim, and — pause, reader — the port of Ujiji is 
below us, embowered in the palms, only five hundred 
yards from us ! At this grand moment we do not 
think of the hundreds of miles we have marched, of the 
hundreds of hills that we have ascended and descended, 
of the many forests we have traversed, of the jungles and 



408 SOW I FOUJSID LIVINGSTONE, 

thickets that annoyed us, of the fervid salt plains that 
blistered our feet, of the hot suns that scorched us, nor 
the dangers and difficulties, now happily surmounted. 
At last the sublime hour has arrived ! — our dreams, ouV 
hopes, and anticipations are now about to be realized ! 
Our hearts and our feelings are with our eyes, as we 
peer into the palms and try to make out in which hut 
or house lives the white man with the grey beard we 
heard about on the Malagarazi. 

" Unfurl the flags, and load your guns !" 

" Ay Wallah, ay Wallah, bana !" respond the men, 
eagerly. 

" One, two, three — fire !" 

A volley from nearly fifty guns roars like a salute 
from a battery of artillery : we shall note its effect 
presently on the peaceful-looking village below. 

" Now, kirangozi, hold the white man's flag up 
high, and let the Zanzibar flag bring up the rear. 
And you men keep close together, and keep firing 
until we halt in the market-place, or before the white 
man's house. You have said to me often that you 
could smell the fish of the Tanganika — I can smell the 
fish of the Tanganika now. There are fisli, and beer, 
and a long rest waiting for you. March !" 

Before we had gone a hundred yards our repeated 
volleys had the effect desired. We had awak'ened Ujiji 
to the knowledge that a caravan was coming, and the 
people were witnessed rushing up in liundreds to meet 
us. The mere sight of the flags infoiraed every one 
immediately that we were a caravan, but the American 
flag borne aloft by gigantic Asmani, wliose face was 
one vast smile on this day, rather staggered them at 
first. However, many of the people who now ap- 
proached us remembered the flag. They had seen it 



Nov. 1871.J UKAWENDI, UVINZA, AND UUIIA, TO UJIJI. 409 

float above the American Cousulate, and from tlie mast- 
head of many a ship in the harbor of Zanzibar, and 
they were soon heard welcoming the beautiful flag with 
cries of "Bindera Kisungu!" — a white man's flag ^ 
" Bindera Merikani!" — the American flag ! 

Then we were surrounded by them : by Wajiji, 
Wanyamwezi, Wangwana, Warundi, Waguliha, Wa- 
manyueraa and Arabs, and were ahnost deafened with 
the shouts of ** Yambo, yambo, bana ! Yambo, bana ! 
Yambo, bana !" To all and each of my men the 
welcome was given. 

We were now about three hundred yards from the 
village of Ujiji, and the crowds are dense about me. 
Suddenly I hear a voice on my right say, 

" Good morning, sir !" 

Startled at hearing this greeting in the midst of such 
a crowd of black people, I turn sharply around in search 
of the man, and see him at my side, with the blackest 
of faces, but animated and joyous — a man dressed in a 
long wliite shirt, with a turban of American sheeting 
around his woolly head, and I ask : 

" Who the mischief are you ?'* 

" I am Susi, the servant of Dr. Livingstone," 
said he, smiling, and showing a gleaming row of 
teeth. 

" What ! Is Dr. Livingstone here ?" 

" Yes, sir." 

" In this village ?" 

" Yes, sir." 

" Are 3'ou sure ?'* 

" Sure, sure, sir. Wh}^ I leave him just now." 

'*Good morning, sir," said another voice. 

*' Hallo," said I, " is this another one ?" 

"Yes, sir." 



410 HOW 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

" Well, what is your name ?" 

" My name is Chumah, sir." 

** What ! are you Chumah, the friend of Wekotani ?" 

" Yes, sir." 

" And is the Doctor well ?" 

" Not very well, sir." 

** Where has he been so long ?" 

" In Manyiiema." 

*' Now, you Susi, run, and tell the Doctor I am 
coming." 

*' Yes, sir," and off he darted like a madman. 

But by this time we were within two hundred yards 
of the village, and the multitude was getting denser, 
and almost preventing our march. Flags and streamers 
were out; Arabs and Wangwana were pushing their 
way through the natives in order to greet us, for, 
according to their account, we belonged to them. But 
the great wonder of all was, " How did you come from 
Unyanyembe ?" 

Soon Susi came running back, and asked me my 
name ; he had told the Doctor that I was coming, but 
the Doctor was too surprised to believe him, and, when 
the Doctor asked him my name, Susi was rather 
staggered. 

But, during Susi's absence, the news had been con- 
veyed to the Doctor that it was surely a white man 
that was coming, whose guns were firing and whose 
flag could be seen ; and the great Arab magnates of 
Ujiji — Mohammed bin Sali, Sayd bin Majid, Abid bin 
Suliman, Mohammed bin Gharib, and others — had 
gathered together before the Doctor's house, and the 
Doctor had come out from his veranda to discuss the 
matter and await my arrival. 

In the meantime, the head of the Expedition had 



Nov. 1871.] UKAWENDl, UVINZA, AND UIIHA, TO UJIJI. 411 

halted, and the kirangozi was out of the ranks, holding 
his flag aloft, and Selim said to me, " I see the Doctor, 
sir. Oh, what an old man ! He has got a white beard." 

And I what would I not have given for a bit 

of friendly wilderness, where, unseen, I might vent my 
joy in some mad freak, such as idiotically biting my 
hand, turning a somersault, or slashing at trees, in 
order to allay those exciting feelings that were well^ 
nigh uncontrollable. My heart beats fast, but I must 
not let my lace betray my emotions, lest it shall 
detract from the dignity of a white man appearing 
under such extraordinary circumstances. 

So I did that which I thought was most dignified. I 
pushed back the crowds, and, passing from the rear, 
walked down a living avenue of people, until I came in 
front of the semicircle of Arabs, in the front of which 
stood the white man with the grey beard. As I 
advanced slowly towards him I noticed he was pale, 
looked wearied, had a grey beard, wore a bluish cap 
with a faded gold band round it, had on a red-sleeved 
waistcoat, and a pair of grey tweed trousers. I would 
have run to him, only I was a coward in the presence 
of such a mob — would have embraced him, only, he 
being an Englishman, I did not know how he would 
receive me ;* so I did what cowardice and false pride 

* " This Englishman, as I afterwards found, was a military man 
returning to his country from India, and crossing the Desert at this 
fart in order to go through Palestine. As for me, I had come pretty 
straight from England, and so here we met in the wilderness at about 
half-way from our respective starting-points. As we approached 
each other, it became with me a question whether we should speak ; I 
thought it likely that the stranger would accost me, and in the event 
of his doing su. 1 was quite ready to be as sociable and chatty as I 
could be, according to my nature ; but still I could not think of 
anything part.cular that I had to say to him; of course among 
civilized people, the not having anything to say is no excuse at all 



412 EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

suggested was the best thing — walked delibeiately tc 
bim, took off my hat, and said : 

" Dr. Livingstone, I presume ?" 

** Yes," said he, with a kind smile, lifting his cap 
slightly. 

I replace my hat on my head, and he puts on his 
cap, and we both grasp hands, and I then say aloud : 

" I thank God, Doctor, I have been permitted to see 

you." 

He answered, " I feel thankful that I am here to 
welcome you." 

I turn to the Arabs, take off my hat to them in 
response to the saluting chorus of " Yambos " I receive, 
and the Doctor introduces them to me by name. Then, 
oblivious of the crowds, oblivious of the men who shared 
with me my dangers, we — Livingstone and I — turn 
our faces towards his tembe. He points to the veranda, 
or, rather, mud platform, under the broad overhanging 
eaves ; he points to his own particular seat, which I see 
his age and experience in Africa has suggested, namely, 
a straw mat, with a goatskin over it, and another skin 
nailed against the wall to protect his back from contact 
with the cold mud. I protest against taking this seat, 
which so much more befits him than me, but the Doctor 
will not yield : I must take it. 

We are seated — the Doctor and I — with our backs to 
the wall. The Arabs take seats on our left. More than 
a thousand natives are in our front, filling the whole 
square densely, indulging their curiosity, and discussing 



for not speaking, but I was shy, and indolent, and I felt no great wish 
to stop, and talk like a morning visitor, in the midst of thoso broad 
solitudes. The traveller perhaps felt as I did, for except that wo 
lifted our hands to our caps, and waved our arms in courtesy, we passed 
each other as if we had passed in Bond Street." — Kinglake's Eothen. 



Nov. 1871.] UKAWENDI, UVINZA, AND UffBA, TO UJIJI. 413 

the fact of two white men meeting at UjijI — one just 
come from Manyuema, in the west^ the otlier from 
Unyanyembe, in the east. 

Conversation began. What about? I declare I 
have forgotten. Oh 1 we mutually asked questions of 
one another, such as : 

" How did you come here ?" and " Where have you 
been all this long time ? — the world has believed you to 
be dead." Yes, that was the way it began ; but what- 
ever the Doctor informed me, and that which I commu- 
nicated to liim, I cannot correctly report, for I found 
myself gazing at him, conning the wonderful man at 
whose side I now sat in Central Africa. Every hair of his 
head and beard, every wrinkle of his face, the wanness 
of his features, and the slightly wearied look he wore, 
were all imparting intelligence to me — the knowledge I 
craved for so much ever since I heard the words, " Take 
what you want, but find Livingstone." What I saw 
was deeply interesting intelligence to me, and un- 
varnished truth. I was listening and reading at the 
same time. What did these dumb witnesses relate to 
me ? 

Oh, reader, had you been at my side on this day in 
Ujiji, how eloquently could be told the nature of this 
man's work ! Had you been there but to see and hear ! 
His lips gave me the details ; lips that never lie. I 
cannot repeat what he said ; I was too much engrossed 
to take my note-book out, and begin to stenograph his 
story. He had so much to say that he began at the 
end, seemingly oblivious of the fact that five or six 
years had to be accounted for. But his account was 
oozing out ; it was growing fast into grand proportions 
— into a most marvellous history of deeds. 

The Arabs rose up, with a delicacy I approved, as if 



414 HOW I FO UND LI VINGSTONK 

they intuitively knew that we ouglit to be left to our- 
selves. I sent Bombay with them, to give them the 
news they also wanted so much to know about the 
affairs at Unyanyembe. Sayd bin Majid was the father 
of the gallant young man whom I saw at Masange, and 
who fought with me at Zimbizo, and who soon after- 
wards was killed by Mirambo's Ruga-Ruga in the forest 
of Wilyankuru ; and, knowing that I had been there, 
he earnestly desired to hear the tale of the fight ; but 
they had all friends at Unyanyembe, and it was but 
natural that they should be anxious to hear of what 
concerned them. 

After giving orders to Bombay and Asmani for the 
provisioning of the men of the Expedition, I called 
" Kaif-Halek," or '* How-do-ye-do," and introduced 
him to Dr. Livingstone as one of the soldiers in 
charge of certain goods left at Unyanyembe, whom I 
had compelled to accompany me to Ujiji, that he might 
deliver in person to his master the letter-bag he had 
been entrusted with by Dr. Kirk. This was that 
famous letter-bag marked "Nov. 1st, 1870," which was 
now delivered into the Doctor's hands 365 days after it 
left Zanzi bar ! How long, I wonder, had it remained 
at Unyanyembe had I not been despatched into Central 
Africa in search of the great traveller ? 

The Doctor kept the letter-bag on his knee, then, 
presently, opened it, looked at the letters contained 
there, and read one or two of his children's letters, his 
face in the meanwhile lighting up. 

He asked me to tell him the news. ** No, Doctor," 
said I, *' read your letters first, which I am sure you 
must be impatient to read." 

" Ah," said he, " I have waited years for letters, and 
I have been taught patience. I can surely afford to 



Nov. 1871.] UKAWENDI, UVTNZA, AND UBEA, TO VJIJL 415 

wait a few hours longer. No, tell me the general 
news : how is the world getting along ?" 

" You probably know much already. Do you know 
that the Suez Canal is a fact — is opened, and a regular 
trade carried on between Europe and India through it ?" 

" I did not hear about the opening of it. Well, that 
is grand news ! What else ?" 

Shortly I found myself enacting the part of an 
annual periodical to him. There was no need of exag- 
geration — of any penny-a-line news, or of any sensa- 
tionalism. The world had witnessed and experienced 
much the last few years. The Pacific Railroad had 
been completed ; Grant had been elected President 
of the United States ; Egypt had been flooded with 
savans ; the Cretan rebellion had terminated ; a 
Spanish revolution bad driven Isabella from the throne 
of Spain, and a Regent had been appointed ; General 
Prim was assassinated ; a Castelar had electrified Europe 
with his advanced ideas upon the liberty of worship ; 
Prussia had humbled Denmark, and annexed Schleswig- 
Holstein, and her armies were now around Paris ; the 
"Man of Destiny " was a prisoner at Wilhelmshohe ; 
the Queen of Fashion and the Empress of the French 
was a fugitive ; and the child born in the purple had 
lost for ever the Imperial crown intended for his head ; 
the Napoleon dynasty was extinguished by the Prus- 
sians, Bismarck and Yon Moltke ; and France, the 
proud empire, was humbled to the dust. 

What could a man have exaggerated of these facts ? 
What a budget of news it was to one who had emerged 
from the depths of the primeval forests of Manyuema ! 
The reflection of the dazzling light of civilization was 
cast on him while Livingstone was thus listening in 
wonder to one of the most exciting pages of history ever 



416 ffOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, 

repeated. How the puny deeds of barbarism paled 
before these! Who could tell under what new phases 
of uneasy life Europe was laboring even then, while 
we, two of her lonely children, rehearsed the tale of 
her late woes and glories ? More worthily, perhaps, 
had the tongue of a lyric Demodocus recounted them ; 
but, in the absence of the poet, the newspaper corre- 
spondent jjerformed his part as well and truthfully 
as he could. 

Not long after the Arabs had departed, a dishful of 
hot hashed-nieat cakes was sent to us by Sayd bin 
Majid, and a curried chicken was received from Mo- 
hammed bin Sail, and Moeni Kheri sent a dishful of 
stewed goat-meat and rice ; and thus presents of food 
came in succession, and as fast as the}' were brought we 
set to. I had a healthy, stubborn digestion — the exer- 
cise I had taken had put it in prime order ; but Living- 
stone — he had been complaining that he had no appetite, 
that his stomach refused everything but a cup of tea 
now and then — he ate also — ate like a vigorous, hungry 
man; and, as he vied with me in demolishing the pan- 
cakes, he kept repeating, '* You have brought me new 
life. You have brought me new life.'' 

" Oh, by George! " I said, '* I have forgotten some- 
thing. Hasten, Selim, and bring that bottle ; you 
know which ; and bring me the silver goblets. I 
brought this bottle on purpose for this event, which 
I hoped would come to pass, though often it seemed 
useless to expect if 

Selim knew where the bottle was, and he soon 
returned with it — a bottle of Siilery champagne; 
and, handing the Doctor a silver goblet brimful of 
the exhilarating wine, and pouring a small quantity 
into my own, I said, 



Nov 1871.] UKAWENDI, UVINZA, AND UHJJA, TO UJIJI. 417 

" Dr. Livingstone, to your very good health, sir." 

'' And to yours," he responded. 

And the champagne I had treasured for this happy 
meeting was drunk with hearty good wishes to each 
other. 

But we kept on talking and talking, and prepared 
food was being brought to us all tliat afternoon ; and 
we kept on eating every time it was brought, until 
I had eaten even to repletion, and the Doctor was 
obliged to confess that he had eaten enougli. Still, 
Halimah, the female cook of the Doctor's estabhshment, 
was in a state of the greatest excitement. She had 
been protruding her head out of the cookhouse to make 
sure that there were really two white men sitting down 
in the veranda, when there used to be only one, who 
would not, because he could not, eat any tiling ; and she 
had been considerably exercised in her mind about this 
fact. She was afraid the Doctor did not properly 
appreciate her cuHnary abilities ; but now slie was 
amazed at the extraordinaiy quantity of food eaten, 
and she was in a state of deh'ghtful excitenient. We 
could hear her tongue rolling off a treinendous volume 
of clatter to the wondering crowds who halted before 
the kitchen to hear the current of news with which 
she edified them. Poor, faithful soul ! While we 
listened to the noise of her furious gossip, the Doctor 
related her faitliful services, and the terrible anxiety 
she evinced when the guns first announced the arrival 
of another white man in Ujiji ; how slie had been 
flying about in a state of the utmost excitement, from 
the kitchen into his presence, and out again into the 
square, asking all sorts of questions ; how she was 
in despair at the scantiness of the general larder and 
treasury of the strange household ; how she was anxious 

2 £ 



418 EOW 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE, 

to make up for tlieir poverty by a grand appearance — 
to make up a sort of Barmecide feast to welcome 
the white man. " Why," said she, " is he not one 
of us ? Does he not bring plenty of cloth and beads ? 
Talk about the Arabs ! Who are they that they should 
be compared to white men ? Arabs, indeed !" 

The Doctor and I conversed upon many things, 
especially upon his own immediate troubles, and his 
disappointment, upon his arrival in Ujiji, when told 
that all his goods had been sold, and he was 
reduced to poverty. He had but twenty cloths or 
so left of the stock he had deposited with the man 
called Sherif, the hali-caste drunken tailor, who was 
sent by the British Consul in charge of the goods. 
Besides which he had been sufferiug from an attack of 
dysentery, and his condition was most deplorable. 
He wacs but little improved on this day, though he 
had eaten well, and already began to feel stronger and 
better. 

This day, like all others, though big with happiness 
to me, at last was fading away. We, sitting with our 
faces looking to the east, as Livingstone had been 
sitting for days preceding my arrival, noted the dark 
shadows which crept up above the grove of palms 
beyond the village, and above the rampart of moun- 
tains which we had crossed that day, now looming 
through the fast approaching darkness ; and we listened, 
with our hearts full of gratitude to the great Giver 
of Good and Dispenser of all Happiness, to the sonorous 
thunder of the surf of the Tanganika, and to the 
chorus which the night insects sang. Hours passed, 
and we were still sitting there with our minds busy 
upon the day's remarkable events, when I remembered 
that the traveller had not yet read his letters. 



Nov. 1871.] UKAWENDI, UVINZA, AND UBffA, TO UJIJI. 419 

" Doctor," I said, "you had better read your letters. 
I will not keep you up any longer." 

*' Yes," he answered, " it is getting late ; and I will 
go and read my friends' letters. Good-night, and God 
bless you." 

" Good-night, my dear Doctor ; and let me hope that 
your news will be such as you desire." 

And now, dear reader, having related succinctly 
'* How I found Livingstone," I bid you also '' Good- 
night." 




OTIS HOUSE IN UJIJI. 

CHAPTER XII. 

INTERCOURSE WITH LIVINGSTONE AT UJIJI. 

" If there is love between us, inconceivably delicious, and profit- 
able will our intercourse be ; if not, your time is lost, and you will 
only annoy me. I shall seem to you stupid, and the reputation I 
Iiave false. All my good is magnetic, and I educate not by lessons, 
but by going about my business." — Emerson's Bejpresentative Men. 

I WOKE up early next morning with a sudden start. 
The room was strange ! It was a house, and not my 
tent! Ah, yes! I recollected I had discovered Living- 
stone, and I was in his house. I listened, that the 
knowledge dawning on me might be confirmed by the 
sound of his voice. I heard nothing but the sullen 
roar of the surf. 

I lay quietly in bed. Bed ! Yes, it was a primitive 
four-poster, with the leaves of the palm-tree spread upon 
ft instead of down, and horsehair and my bearskin 



I^ov. 1871.] INTEnCOURSE WITH LIVINGSTONE, 421 

spread over this serving me in place of linen. I be^an 
to put myself under a rigid mental cross-examination, 
and to an analysation of my position. 

" What was I sent for ?" 

*' To find Livingstone." 

" Have you found him ?" 

*^ Yes, of course ; am I not in his house ? Whose 
compass is tliat hanging on a peg there? Whose 
clothes, whose boots, are those ? Who reads those 
newspapers, those * Saturday Reviews ' and numbers of 
* Punch ' lying on the floor ?'' 

*^ Well, what are you going to do now 'P 

" I shall tell him this morning who sent me, and 
what brought me here. I will then ask him to write a 
letter to Mr. Bennett, and to give what news he can 
spare. I did not come here to rob him of his news. 
Sufficient for me is it that I have found him. It is a 
complete success so far. But it will be si greater one if 
he gives me letters for Mr. Bennett, and an acknowledg- 
ment that he has seen me.'* 

" Do you think he will do so ?" 

*' Why not ? I have come here to do him a service. 
He has no goods. I have. He has no men with him. 
I have. If I do a friendly part by him, will he not do 
a friendly part by me ? What sajs the poet ? — 

' Nor hope to find 
A friend, but who has found a friend in thee. 
All like the purchase ; few the price will pay: 
And this makes friends such iconders here below/ 

I have paid the purchase, by coming so far to do him b 
service. But I think, from what I have seen of him last 
night, that he is not such a niggard and misanthrope as 
I was told he was by a man who said he knew him. He 



422 EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

exhibited considerable emotion, despite the monosyllabic 
greeting, when he shook my hand. Neither did he run 
away, as I was told he would ; though perhaps that 
was because he had no time. Still, if he was a man 
to feel annoyance at any person coming after him, he 
would not have received me as he did, nor would he 
ask me to live with him, but he would have surlily 
refused to see me, and told me to mind my own business, 
and he would mind his. Neither does he mind my 
nationality ; for ' here,' said he, ' Americans and Eng- 
lishmen are the same people. We speak the same 
language and have the same ideas.' Just so, Doctor; 
I agree with you. Here, at least, Americans and Eng- 
lishmen shall be brothers, and whatever I can do for 
you^ you may command me as freely as if I were flesh 
of your flesh, bone of your bone." 

I dressed myself quietly, intending to take a stroll 
along the Tanganika before the Doctor should rise ; 
opened the door, which creaked horribly on its liinges, 
and walked out to the veranda. 

"Halloa, Doctor! — you up already? I hope you 
have slept well ?'' 

" Good-morning, Mr. Stanley ! I am glad to see 
you. Hope you rested well. I sat up late reading my 
letters. You have brought me good and bad news. 
But sit down." He made a place for me by his side. 
" Yes, many of my friends are dead. My eldest son 
has met with a sad accident — that is, my boy Tom ; my 
second son, Oswald, is at college studying medicine, 
and is doing well, I am told. Agnes, my eldest daughter, 
has been enjoying herself in a yacht, with ' Sir Parafifine 
Young and his family. Sir Roderick, also, is well, and 
expresses a hope that he will soon see me. You have 
brought me quite a budget." 



Nov. 1871.1 INTERCOURSE WITH LIVINGSTONE. 423 

The man was not an apparition, then, and yesterday's 
scenes were not the result of a dream ! and I gazed on 
him intently, for thus I was assured he had not run 
away, which was the great fear that constantly haunted 
me as I was journeying to Ujiji. 

" Now, Doctor," said I, " you are, probably, won- 
dering why I came here ?" 

" It is true," said he ; " I have been wondering. I 
thought you, at first, an emissary of the French 
Government, in the place of Lieutenant Le Saint, who 
died a few miles above Grondokoro. I heard you had 
boats, plenty of men, and stores, and I really believed 
you were some French officer, until I saw the American 
flag; and, to tell you the truth, I was rather glad it 
was so, because I could not have talked to him in 
French ; and if he did not know English, we had been 
a pretty pair of white men in Ujiji ! I did not like to 
ask you yesterday, because it was none of my business." 

" Well," said I, laughing, '' for your sake I am glad 
that I am an American, and not a Frenchman, and that 
we can understand each other perfectly without an 
interpreter. I see that the Arabs are wondering tliat 
you, an Englishman, and I, an American, understand 
each other. We must take care not to tell them that 
the English and Americans have fought, and that there 
are ' Alabama ' claims left unsettled, and that we have 
such people as Fenians in America, who hate you. 
But, seriously, Doctor — now don't be frightened when I 
tell you that I have come after — you !" 

" After me r 

" Yes." 

" How r 

" Well. You have heard of the ' New York 
Herald?'" 



424 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, 

" Oil — who has not heard of that newspaper ?" 

" Sh-sli ! Without his father's knowledge or consent^ 
Mr. James Gordon Bennett, son of Mr. James Gordon 
Bennett, the proprietor of the ' Herald,' has commis- 
sioned me to find you — to get whatever news of your 
discoveries you like to give — and to assist you, if I can, 
with means." 

" Young Mr. Bennett told you to come after me, to 
find me out, and help me ! It is no wonder, then, you 
praised Mr. Bennett so much last night." 

" I know liim — I am proud to say — to he just what I 
say he is. He is an ardent, generous, and true man." 

" Well, indeed! I am very mucli obliged to him; 
and it makes me feel proud to think that you Americans 
think . so much of me. You have just come in the 
proper time; for I was beginning to tliink that I should 
have to beg from the Arabs. Even they are in want 
of cloth, and there are but few beads in Ujiji. That 
fellow Sherif has robbed me of all. I wish I could 
embody my thanks to Mr. Bennett in suitable words ; 
but if I fail to do so, do not, I beg of you, believe me 
the less gratefuL" 

" And now, Doctor, having disposed of this little 
affair, Ferajji shall bring breakfast ; if you have no 
objection." 

" Yon ha\ e given me an appetite," he said. " Halimah 
is my cook, biit slie never can tell the difference between 
tea and coffee." 

Fer:;j;i, ^lie cook, was ready as usual with excellent 
tea, and a <lisli of smoking cakes ; "dampers," as the 
Doctor called them. I never did care much for this 
kiud of a cake fried in a pan, but they were necessary 
to the Doctor, who had nearly lost all his teeth from the 
hard fare of Lnnda. He had been compelled to subsist 



Nov. 1871.1 INTERCOURSE WITH LIVINGSTONE. 425 

on green ears of Indian corn ; there was no meat in 
that district ; and the effort to gnaw at the corn ears 
had loosened all his teeth. I preferred the corn scones 
of Virginia, which, to my mind, w^ere the nearest 
approach to palatable bread obtainable in Central 
Africa. 

The Doctor said he had thought me a most luxurious 
and rich man, when he saw my great bath-tub carried 
on the shoulders of one of my men ; but he thought me 
still more luxurious this morning, when my knives and 
forks, and plates, and cups, saucers, silver spoons, and 
silver tea-pot were brought forth shining and bright, 
spread on a rich Persian carpet, and observed that I 
was well attended to by my yellow and ebon Mercuries. 

This was the beginning of our life at Ujiji. I knew 
him not as a friend before my arrival. He was only 
an object to me — a great item for a daily newspaper, as 
much as other subjects in which the voracious news- 
loving public delight in. I had gone over battlefields, 
witnessed revolutions, civil wars, rebellions, emeutes 
and massacres ; stood close to the coiidemned murderer 
•to record his last struggles and last sighs ; but never 
had I been called to record anything that moved me so 
much as this man's woes and suffeiings, his privations 
and disappointments, which now were ])oured into my 
ear. Yerily did I begin to perceive that " the Gods 
above do with just eyes survey the affairs of men." I 
began to recognize the hand of an overruling and 
kindly ProvichMK-o. 

These are facts worthy for reflection. I was com- 
missioned for tlie duty of discovering Livingstone 
sometime in October, 1869. Mr. Bennett was ready 
with the money, and I was ready for tlie jc^urney. But, 
observe, reader, that 1 did not proceed directly upon 



*26 EOW 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

the searcli mission. I had many tasks to fulfil before 
I roceeding with it, and many thousand miles to travel 
over. Supposing that I had gone direct to Zanzibar 
from Paris, seven or eight months afterwards, perhaps, 
I should have found myself at Ujiji, but Livingstone 
^^•ould not have been found there then ; he was on the 
Lualaba ; and I should have had to follow him on 
his devious tracks through the primeval forests of 
Manyuema, and up along the crooked course of the 
Lualaba for hundreds of miles. The time taken by me 
in travelling up the Nile, back to Jerusalem, then to Con- 
stantinople, Southern Enssia, the Caucasus, and Persia, 
was employed by Livingstone in fruitful discoveries 
west of the Tanganika. Again, consider that I arri\'ed 
at Unyanyembe in the latter part of June, and that 
owing to a war I was delayed three montlis at Unyan- 
yembe, leading a fretful, peevish and impatient life. But 
while I was thus fretting myself, and being delayed by 
a series of accidents, Livingstone was being forced back 
to Ujiji in the same month. It took him from June to 
October to march to Ujiji. Now, in September, I 
broke loose from the thraldom which accident had 
imposed on me, and hurried southward to Ukonongo, 
then westward to Kawendi, then northward to Uvinza, 
then westward to Ujiji, only about three ^eeks after 
the Doctor's arrival, to find him resting under the 
veranda of his house with his face turned eastward, the 
direction from which I was coming. Had I gone direct 
from Paris on the search I might have lost him ; had I 
been enabled to have gone direct to Ujiji from Unyan- 
yembe I might have lost him. 

The days came and went peacefully and happily, 
under the palms of Ujiji. My companion was im- 
proving in health and spirits. Life had been brought 



Nov. 1871.] INTERCOURSE WITH LIVINGSTONE. 427 

back to him ; his fading vitality was restored, hig 
enthusiasm for his work was growing up again into a 
height that was compelling him to desire to be up and 
doing. But what could he do, with five men and 
fifteen or twenty cloths ? 

" Have you seen the northern head of the Tanganika, 
Doctor ?" I asked one day. 

" No ; I did try to go there, but the Wajiji were 
doing their best to fleece me, as they did both Burton 
and Speke, and I had not a great deal of cloth. If I 
had gone to the head of the Tanganika, I could not 
have gone to Manyuema. The central line of drainage 
was the most important, and that is the Lualaba. 
Before this line the question whether there is a 
connection between the Tanganika and the Albert 
N'Yanza sinks into insignificance. The great line of 
drainage is the river flowing from latitude 11° south, 
which I followed for over seven degrees northward. The 
Chambezi, the name given to its most southern ex- 
tremity, drains a large tract of country south of the 
southernmost source of the Tanganika ; it must, there- 
fore, be the most important. I have not the least 
doubt, myself, but that this lake is the Upper Tanga- 
nika, and the Albert N'Yanza of Baker is the Lower 
Tanganika, which are connected by a river flowing 
from the upper to the lower. This is my belief, based 
upon reports of the Arabs, and a test I made of the 
flow with water-plants. But I really never gave it 
much thought." 

" Well, if I were you, Doctor, before leaving Ujiji, I 
should explore it, and resolve the doubts upon the 
subject ; lest, after you leave here, you should not return 
by this way. The Royal Geographical Society attach 
much importance to this supposed connection, and 



428 HOW 2 FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

declare you are tbe only man who can settle it. If 1 
can be of any service to you, you may command me. 
Though I did not come to Africa as an explorer, I have 
a good deal of curiosity upon the subject, and should be 
willing to accompany you. I have with me about 
twenty men who understand rowing ; we have plenty 
of guns, cloth, and beads ; and if we can get a canoe 
from the Arabs we can manage the thing easily." 

" Oh, we can get a canoe from Sayd bin Majid. This 
man has been very kind to me, and if ever there was 
an Arab gentleman, he is one." 

" Then it is settled, is it, that we go?" 

" I am ready, whenever you are." 

" I am at your command. Don't you hear my 
men call you the ' Great Master,' and me the * Little 
Master ?' It would never do for the ' Little Master ' to 
command." 

By tbis time Livingstone was becoming known to 
me. I defy any one to be in his society long without 
thoroughly fathoming him, for in him there is no 
guile, and what is apparent on the surface is the thing 
that is in him. I hope that in my summary of his 
character, and of his discoveries, I offend no one. 
I simply write down my own opinion of the man as I 
have seen him, not as he represents himself; as I know 
him to be, not as I have heard of him. I lived with 
him from the iOth November, 1871, to the 14th March, 
1872 ; witnessed his conduct in the camp, and on the 
march, and my feelings for him are those of unqualified 
admiration. The camp is. the best place to discover a 
man's weaknesses, where, if he is flighty or wrong- 
headed, lie is sure to develop his hobbies and weak 
side. I tliiiik it possible, however, that Livingstone^ 
with an i;ii>^iiitable companion, might feel annoyance 



Nor. 1871.] INTERCOURSE WITH LIVINGSTONE. 420 

I know I sliould do so very readily, if a man's character 
was of that oblique nature that it was an impossibility 
to travel in his company. I have seen men, in whose 
company I felt nothing but a thraldom, which it was 
a duty to my own self-respect to cast off as soon as 
possible ; a feeling of utter incompatibility, with whose 
nature mine could never assimilate. But Livingstone's 
was a character that I venerated, that called forth all 
my enthusiasm, that evoked nothing but sinceresi 
admiration. 

Dr. Livingstone is about sixty years old, though after 
he was restored to health he appeared more like a 
man who had not passed his fiftieth year. His hair 
has a brownish color yet, but is here and there 
streaked with grey lines over the temples ; his beard 
and moustaches are very grey. His eyes, which 
are hazel, are remarkably bright ; he has a sight keen 
as a hawk's. His teeth alone indicate the weakness 
of age ; the hard fare of Lunda has made havoc in 
their lines. His form, which soon assumed a stoutish 
appearance, is a little over the ordinary height, with 
the slightest possible bow in the shoulders. When 
walking he has a firm but heavy tread, like that of an 
overworked or fatigued man. Pie is accustomed to 
wear a naval cap with a semicircular peak, by which 
he has been identified throughout Africa. His dress, 
when first I saw him, exhibited traces of patcliing and 
repairing, but was scrupulously clean. 

I was led to believe that Livingstone 2)0ssessed a 
splenetic, misanthropic temper ; some have >said that he 
is garrulous, that he is demented; that lie has utterly 
changed from the David Livingstone whom people knew 
as the reverend missionary ; that he takes no notes or 



130 EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

observations but sucli as those wbicb no other person 
could read but himself; and it was reported, before I 
proceeded to Central Africa, that he was married to an 
African princess. 

I respectfully beg to differ with all and each of the 
above statements. I grant he is not an angel, but 
he approaches to that being as near as the nature of 
a living man will allow. I never saw any spleen 
or misanthropy in him : as for being garrulous, Dr. 
Livingstone is quite the reverse; he is reserved, if 
anything ; and to the man who says Dr. Livingstone 
is changed, all I can say is, that he never could have 
known him, for it is notorious that the Doctor has a 
fund of quiet humor, which he exhibits at all times 
whenever he is among friends. • I must also beg leave 
to correct the gentleman who informed me that Living- 
stone takes no notes or observations. The huge Letts's 
Diary which I carried home to his daughter is full of 
notes, and there are no less than a score of sheets within 
it filled with observations which he took during the 
last trip he made to Manyuema alone ; and in the middle 
of the book there is sheet after sheet, colunm after 
column, carefully written, of figures alone. A large 
letter which I received from him has been sent to Sir 
Thomas MacLear, and this contains nothing but obser- 
vations. During the four months I was with him, I 
noticed him every evening making most careful notes ; 
and a large tin box that he has with him contains 
numbers of field note-books, the contents of which I 
dare say will see light some time. His maps also 
evince great care and industry. As to the report of 
his African marriage, it is unnecessary to say more 
than that it is untrue, and it is utterly beneath a 



I 



Nov. 1871.] INTERCOURSE WITH LIVINGSTONE, 431 

gentleman even to hint at such a thing in connection 
with the name of Dr. Livingstone. 

You may take any point in Dr. Livingstone's cha- 
racter, and analyse it carefully, and I would challenge 
any man to find a fault in it. He is sensitive, I 
know ; but so is any man of a high mind and generous 
nature. He is sensitive on the point of being doubted 
or being criticised. But who are they who doubt him ? 
Easy-chair geographers, of course ; not the hard-working 
travellers who number hundreds on the list of the 
Royal Geographical Society. I have not found a 
Richard Burton or a Winwood Reade criticising him. 
And to have one's maps and observations altered to 
suit the caprices of irresponsible parties is no pleasant 
thing to a man who has been so painstaking and 
industrious. Livingstone may be mistaken in his 
concliisions on certain points, but the geographer who 
stays at home cannot correct him unless he has data to 
go upon received from parties who have explored the 
same region. No Francis Galton or Dr. Beke, with 
ever so many opinions, can prove the Lake Tanganika 
a myth ; four travellers have seen and reported upon 
it. No Francis Galton or Dr. Beke can prove to 
Colonel Grant that there is no such stream as the 
Victoria Nile. Yet how much of this river — of this 
stream — did Colonel Grant see ? Not fifty miles. But, 
because he saw it flow north and north-westerly, he 
believes, sincerely and honestly, that it is the same 
river which he observed flowing past Gondokoro. 
Livingstone also believes that — after following the 
Chambezi, Luapula, and Lualaba, over seven degrees of 
latitude, and seeing it still flow northward, and hearing 
from natives that there is a large lake north of where 
he halted in his grand march northward, following the 



43i ROW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

current of tlie mighty Lualaba — that this Lualaba ia 
none other than the Nile. Has he no right, then, to 
feel vexed that easy-chair geographers draw a great 
range of mountains, extending over three degrees oi 
latitude, simply to demonstrate by that black, sinister- 
looking line '' that he has been knocking his head 
against a stone wall ?" Livingstone, with all his know- 
ledge of African mysteries, knows not yet how to 
manufacture a mountain. He is too humble-souled to 
dare attempt to transform the face of nature after the 
arbitrary method known to stay-at-home geographers.* 

In Livingstone I have seen many amiable traits. 
His gentleness never forsakes him ; his hopefulness 
never deserts him. No harassing anxieties, distraction 
of mind, long separation from home and kindred, can 
make him complain. He thinks " all will come out 
right at last;" he has such faith in the goodness of 
Providence. The sport of adverse circumstances, the 
plaything of the miserable beings sent to him from 
Zanzibar — he has been baffled and worried, even almost 
to the grave, yet he will not desert the charge imposed 
upon him by his friend. Sir Eoderick Murchison. To 
the stern dictates of duty, alone, has he sacrificed his 
home and ease, the pleasures, refinements, and luxuries 
of civilized life. His is the Spartan heroii^m, the 
inflexibility of the Roman, the enduring resolution of 
the Anglo-Saxon — never to relinquish liis work, though 
his heart }'earns for home ; never to surrender his 
obligations until he can write Fixis to his work. 

There is a good-natured abandon about Livingstone 

♦ All the criticisms which I have seen upon Livingstone's dis- 
coveries are tainted with too much of the odium geograpJiicum to be 
received with the weight due to the cool and calm declaration of sound 
and logical opinion of experienced travellers and scientific men. 



Nov. 1871.] INTERCOURSE WITH LIVINGSTONE. f83 

which was not lost on me. Whenever he began to 
langh, there was a contagion about it, tliat compelled 
me to imitate him. It was such a laugli as Herr 
Teufelsdrockli's — a laugh of the whole man from head 
to heel. If he told a story, he related it in such a way, 
as to convince one of its truthfulness ; his face was so 
lit up by the sly fun it contained, that I was sure the 
story was worth relating, and worth listening to. 

The wan features which had shocked me at first 
meeting, the heavy step which told of age and hard 
travel, the grey beard and bowed shoulders, belied the 
man. Underneath that well-worn exterioi- lay an 
endless fund of high spirits and inexhaustible humor ; 
that rugged frame of his enclosed a young and most 
exuberant soul. Every day I heard innumerable jokes 
and pleasant anecdotes ; interesting hunting stories, in 
which his friends Oswell, Webb, Yardon, and Gordon 
Gumming were almost always the chief actoVs. I was 
not sure, at first, but this joviality, humor, and abundant 
animal spirits were the result of a joyous hysteria; but 
as I found they continued while I was with him, I am 
obliged to think them natural. 

Another thing which specially attracted my attention 
was his wonderfully retentive memory. If we re- 
member the many years he has spent in Africa, 
deprived of books, we may well think it an inicommon 
memory that can recite whole poems from Byron, 
Burns, Tennyson, Longfellow, Whittier, and Lowell. 
The reascm of this may be found, perhaps, in the fact, 
that he has lived all his life almost, we may say, 
within himself. Zimmerman, a great student of 
human nature, says on this subject : " The unen- 
cumbered mind recalls all that it has read, that all 
pleased the eye, and delighted the ear ; and reflecting 

2 F 



434 HOW 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

Oil every idea which either observation, or expe- 
j'ience, or discourse has produced^ gains new infor- 
mation by every reflection. The intellect contera plates 
all the former scenes of life; views by anticipation 
tliose that are yet to come ; and blends all ideas of past 
and future in the actual enjoyment of the present 
moment." He has lived in a world which revolved 
inwardly, out of which he seldom awoke except to 
attend to the immediate practical necessities of himself 
and people ; then relapsed again into the same happy 
inner world, which he must have peopled with his own 
friends, relations, acquaintances, familiar readings, 
ideas, and associations ; so that wherever he might 
be. or by whatsoever he was surrounded, his 
own world always possessed more attractions to his 
cultured mind than were yielded by external cir- 
cumstances. 

The study of Dr. Livingstone would not be 
complete if we did not take the religious side of his 
character into consideration. His religion is not of 
the theoretical kind, but it is a constant, earnest, 
sincere practice. It is neither demonstrative nor loud, 
but manifests itself in a quiet, practical way, and is 
always at work. It is not aggressive, which sometimes 
is troublesome, if not impertinent. In him, religion 
exhibits its loveliest features ; it governs his conduct not 
only towards his servants, but towards the natives, the 
bigoted Mrihammedans, and all who come in contact 
with him. Without it, Livingstone, with his ardent 
. temperament, his enthusiasm, his high spirit and 
courage, must have become uncompanionable, and a 
bard master. Religion has tamed him, and made him a 
Christian gentleman ; the crude and wilful have been 
refined and subdued ; religion has made him the most 



Nov. 1871.1 INTERCOURSE WITH LIVINGSTONE. 435 

compainonable of men and indulgent of masters — a 
man whose society is pleasurable to a degree. 

I have often heard our servants discuss our respective 
merits. " Your master," say my servants to Living- 
stone's, " is a good man — a very good man ; he does 
not beat you, for he has a kind heart ; but ours — oh ! 
he is sharp — hot as fire " — " mkali sana, kana moto." 
From being hated and tlnvarted in every possible way 
by the Arabs and half-castes upon first arrival in Ujiji, 
he has, through his uniform kindness and mild, pleasant 
temper, won all hearts. I observed that universal 
respect was paid to him. Even the Mohammedans 
never passed his house without calling to pay their 
compliments, and to say, " The blessing of Grod rest on 
you." Each Sunday morning he gathers his little 
flock around him, and reads prayers and a chapter from 
the Bible, in a natural, unaffected, and sincere tone ; 
and afterwards delivers a short address in the Kisawa- 
hili language, about the subject read to them, which is 
listened to with evident interest and attention. 

There is another point in Livingstone's character 
about which readers of his books, and students of his 
travels, would like to know, and that is his ability to 
withstand the dreadful climate of Central Africa, and 
the consistent energy with which he follows up his 
explorations. His consistent energy is native to him 
and to his race. He is a very fine example of the 
perseverance, doggedness, and tenacity which charac- 
terise the Anglo-Saxon spirit ; but his ability to 
withstand the climate is due not only to the happy 
constitution with which he was born^ but to the strictly 
temperate life he has ever led. A drunkard and a 
man of vicious habits could never have withstood the 
climate of Central Africa. 



436 HOW I FOUND IJVIKGSTOXK 

The second day after my arrival in Ujiji I asked the 
Doctor if he did not feel a desire, sometimes, to visit 
his country, and take a little rest after his six years' 
explorations ; and the answer he gave me fully reveals 
the man. Said he : 

" I would like very much to go liome and see my 
children once again, but I cannot bring my heart to 
abandon the task I have undertaken, when it is so 
nearly completed. It only requires six or seven 
months more to trace the true source tliat I have 
discovered with Petherick's branch of the AVhite Nile, 
or wath the Albert N'Yanza of Sir Samuel Baker 
which is the lake called by the natives 'Chowambe.' 
Why should I go home before my task is ended, to 
have to come back again to do what I can very well 
do now ?" 

" And why," I asked, " did you come so far back 
without finishing the task which you say you have got 

to do r 

" Simply because I was forced. My men would not 
budge a step forward. They mutinied, and formed a 
secret resolution — if I still insisted on going on — to 
raise a disturbance in the conntry, and after they had 
effected it to abandon me ; in which case I should have 
been killed. It was dangerous to go any further. I had 
explored six hundred miles of the watershed, had traced 
all the principal streams which discharged their waters 
into the central line of drainage, but when about start- 
ing to explore the last hundred miles the hearts of my 
people failed them, and they set about frustrating me 
in every possible way. Now, having returned seven 
hundred miles to get a new supply of stores, and an- 
other escort, I find myself destitute of even the means 
to live but for a few weeks, and sick in mind and body/* 



Nov. 1871.] INTERCOURSE WITH LIVINGSTONE. 437 

Here T may pause to ask the reader how he would 
have comported himself in such a crisis, under such an 
accumulation of difficulties. Many would have been in 
exceeding Inn-ry to get home to tell the news of the 
continued explorations and discoveries, and to relieve 
the anxiety of the sorrowing family and friends await- 
ing their returji. Enough surely had been accom- 
plished towards the solution of the problem that had 
exercised the minds of his scientific associates of the 
Koyal Geographical Society. This was no negative 
exploration, it was hard, earnest labor of years, self- 
abnegation, enduring patience, and exalted fortitude 
such as ordinary men fail to exhibit. 

Suppose Livingstone, following the custom of otlier 
travellers, had hurried to the coast after he had dis- 
covered Lake Bangweolo, to tell the news to the geo- 
graphical world ; then had returned to discover Moero, 
and run away again; then came back once more only 
to discover Kamolondo, and to race back again. But 
no ; he not only discovers the Chambezi, Lake Bang- 
weolo, Luapula River, Lake Moero, Luahiba River, and 
Lake Kamolondo, but he still tirelessly urges his steps 
forward to put the final completion to the gra;.d 
lacustrine river system. Had he followed the example 
of ordinary explorers, he would have been running 
backwards and forwards to tell the news, instead of 
exploring; and he might have been able to write a 
volume upon the discovery of each lake, and earn 
much money thereby. They are no few months' explo- 
rations that form the contents of his books. His 
' Missionary Travels' embraces a period of sixteen years ; 
his book on the Zambezi, five years ; and If the great 
traveller lives to come home, his third book, the grandest 
of all, must contain the records of eight or nine years. 



i38 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

It is a principle with Livingstone to do well what 
he undertakes to do ; and in the consciousness that 
he is doing it, despite the yearning for his home 
which is sometimes overpowering, he finds, to a cer- 
tain extent, contentment, if not happiness. And 
though to men differently constituted a long residence 
amongst the savages of Africa would be contemplated 
with horror, yet Livingstone's mind can find pleasure 
and food for philosophic studies. The wonders of pri- 
meval nature, the great forests and sublime mountains, 
the perennial streams and sources of the great lakes, 
the marvels of the earth, the splendors of the tropic 
sky by day and by night — all terrestrial and celestial 
phenomena are manna to a man of such self-abnegation 
and devoted philanthropic spirit. He can be charmed 
with the primitive simplicity of Ethiop's dusky children, 
with whom he has spent so many years of his life ; he 
has a sturdy faith in their capabilities; sees virtue in 
them where others see nothing but savagery ; and 
wherever he has gone among them, he has souglit to 
elevate a people that were apparently forgotten of God 
and Christian man. 

One night I took out my note-book, and prepared to 
take down from his own lips what he had to say about 
his travels ; and unhesitatingly he related his expe- 
riences, of which the following is a summary : 

Dr. David Livingstone left the island of Zanzibar 
in March, 1866. On the 7th of the following month he 
departed from Mikindiny Bay for the interior, with an 
expedition consisting of twelve Sepoys from Bombay, 
nine men from Johanna, of the Comoro Islands, seven 
liberated slaves, and two Zambezi men, taking tlieni as 
an experiment; six camels, three buffaloes, two mules, 
and three donkeys. He had thus thirty men with him, 



Nov. 1871.] INTERCOURSE WITH LIVINGSTONE. 439 

twelve of whopi, viz., the Sepoys, were to act as guards 
for the expedition. They were mostly armed with the 
Enfield rifles presented to the Doctor by the Bombay 
Government. Tlie baggage of the expedition consisted 
of ten bales of cloth and two bags of beads, which were 
to serve as the currency by which they would be enabled 
to purchase the necessaries of life in the countries the 
Doctor intended to visit. Besides the cumbrous moneys, 
they carried several boxes of instruments, such as chro- 
nometers, air thermometers, sextant, and artificial 
horizon, boxes containing clothes, medicines, and per- 
sonal necessaries. The expedition travelled up the left 
bank of the Rovuma River, a route as full of difficulties 
as any that could be chosen. For miles Livingstone 
and his party had to cut their way with their axes 
tbrough the dense and almost impenetrable jungles 
which lined the river's banks. The road was a mere 
footpath, leading in tbe most erratic fashion into and 
through the dense vegetation^ seeking the easiest outlet 
from it without any regard to the course it ran. The 
pagazis were able to proceed easily enough, but the 
camels, on account of their enormous height, could not 
advance a step without the axes of the party first 
clearing the way. These tools of foresters were almost 
always required; but the advance of the expedition was 
often retarded by the unwillingness of the Sepoys and 
Johanna men to work. 

Soon after the departure of the expedition from the 
coast, the murmurings and complaints of these men 
began, and upon every occasion and at every oppor- 
tunity they evinced a decided hostility to an advance. 
In order to prevent the progress of the Doctor, in hopes 
that it would compel him to return to the coast, these 
men so cruelly treated the animals that before long tlieie 



440 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

was not one left alive. But as this scheme failed, they 
set about instigating the natives against the white man, 
whom they accused most wantonly of strange practices. 
As this plan was most likely to succeed, and as it was 
dangerous to ha\e such men with him, the Doctor 
arrived at the conclusion that it was best to discharge 
them, and accordingly sent the Sepoys back to the 
coast; but not without having first furnished them with 
the means of subsistence on their journey to the coast. 
These men were such a disreputable set that the natives 
spoke of them as the Doctor's slaves. One of their 
worst sins w^as their custom of giving their guns and 
ammunition to carry to the first woman or boy they 
met_, whom they impressed for that purpose by such 
threats or premises as they were totally unable to 
perform, and unwarranted iii making. An honr's marcli- 
ing was sufficient to fiitigue them, after which they lay 
down on the road to bewail their hard fate, and concoct 
new schemes to frustrate their leader's purposes. To- 
wards night tliey generally made their appearance at 
the camping-ground with the looks of half-dead men. 
Such men naturally made but a poor escort ; for, had 
the party been attacked b}' a wandering tribe of natives 
of any strength, the Doctor could have made no defence, 
and no other alternative would have been left to him 
but to surrender and be ruined. 

The Doctor and his little part}^ arrived on the 18th July, 
1866, at a village belonging to a chief of the Wahiyou, 
situate eight days' march south of the Rovuma, and over- 
looking the watershed of the Lake Nyassa. The terri- 
tory lying between the Rovuma River and this Wahiyou 
chieftain was an uninhabited wilderness, during the 
transit of which Livingstone and his ex2:)edition suffered 
considerably from hunger and desertion of men. 



Nov. 1871.1 INTERCOURSE WITH LIVINGSTONE. 4il 

Early in August, 186G, the Doctor came to the country 
of Mponda, a chief who dwelt near the Lake Nyassa. 
On the road thither, two of the liberated slaves deserted 
him. Here also, Wekotani — not Wakotaui — a protege 
of the Doctor, insisted upon his discharge, alleging as 
an excuse — an excuse which the Doctor subsequently 
found to be untrue — that he had found his brother. 
He also stated that his family lived on the east side 
of the Nyassa Lake. He further stated that Mponda's 
favourite wife was his sister. Perceiving that Weko- 
tani was unwilling to go with him further, the Doctor 
took him to Mponda, who now saw and heard of him 
for tlie first time, and, having furnished tlie ungrateful 
boy with enough cloth and beads to keep him until his 
"big brother" should call for him, left him with the 
chief, after first assuring himself that he would 
receive honourable treatment from him. The Doctor 
also gave Wekotani writing-paper — as he eould read 
and write, being accomplishments acquired at Bombay, 
where he had been put to school — so that, should 
he at any time feel disposed, he might write to Mr. 
Horace Waller or to himself. The Doctor further 
enjoined him not to join in any of tbe slave raids 
usually made by his countrymen, the men of Nyassa, 
on their neighbours. Upon finding tliat li is application 
for a discharge was successful, Wekotani endeavoured 
to induce Chumah, another protege of the Doctor's, and 
a com^panion, or chum, of Wekotani, to leave the 
Doctor's service and proceed with him, pronu'sing, as a 
bribe, a wife and plenty of pombe from liis '' big 
brother." Chumah, upon referring the nrittrr to the 
Doctor, was advised not to go, as he (the Doctor) 
strongly suspected that Wekotani wanted only to make 
him his slave. Chumah wisely withdrew from his 



442 ffOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

tempter. From Mponda's, the Doctor proceeded to tlie 
heel of the Nyassa, to the village of a Babisa chief, 
who required medicine for a skin disease. With his 
usual kindness, he stayed at this chief's village to treat 
his malady. 

While here, a half-caste Arab arrived from the 
western shore of the lake, and reported that he had 
been plundered by a band of Mazitu, at a place which 
the Doctor and Musa, chief of the Johanna men, were 
very well aware was at least 150 miles north-north- 
west of where they were then stopping. Musa, how- 
ever, for his own reasons— which will appear presently 
— eagerly listened to the Arab's tale, and gave full 
credence to it. Having well digested its horrible 
details, he came to the Doctor to give him the full 
benefit of what he had heard with such willing ears. 
The traveller patiently listened to the narrative, which 
lost nothing of its portentous significance through 
Musa's relation, and then asked Mnsa if he 5 relieved it. 
" Yes," answered Mnsa, readily ; *' he tell me true, true. 
I ask him good, and he tell true, true." The Doctor, 
however, said he did not believe it, for the Mazitu 
would not have been satisfied with merely plundering 
a man, they would have murdered him ; but suggested, 
in order to allay the fears of his Moslem subordinate, 
that they should both proceed to the chief with whom 
they were staying, who, being a sensible man, would 
be able to advise them as to tlie probability or impro- 
bability of the tale being correct. Together, they pic- 
ceeded to the Babisa chief, who, when he had heard the 
Arab's story, unhesitatingly denounced the Arab as a 
liar, and his story without the least foundation in fact ; 
giving as a reason that, if the Mazitu had been lately in 
that vicinity, he should have heard of it soon enough. 



Nov. 1871.1 INTERCOURSE WITH LIVINGSTONE. 443 

But Musa broke out witli " No, no, Doctor ; no, no, 
no ; I no want to go to Mazitu. I no want Mazitu to 
kill me. I want see my father, my mother, my child, 
in Johanna. I want no Mazitu." These are Musa's 
ipsissima verba. 

To which the Doctor replied, " I don't want Mazitu 
to kill me either ; but, as you are afraid of them, I 
promise to go straight west until we get far past the 
beat of the Mazitu." 

Musa was not satisfied, but kept moaning and sorrow- 
ing, saying, " If we had two hundred guns with us I 
would go ; but our small party of men will attack by 
night, and kill all." 

The Doctor repeated his promise, '* But I will not go 
near them ; I will go west." 

As soon as he turned his face westward, Musa and 
the Johanna men ran away in a body. 

The Doctor says, in commentiug upon Musa's con- 
duct, that he felt strongly tempted to shoot Musa and 
another ringleader, but was, nevertheless, glad that he 
did not soil his hands with their vile blood. A day or 
two afterwards, another of his men — Simeon Price by 
name — came to the Doctor with the same tale about 
the Mazitu, but, compelled by the scant number of his 
people to repress all such tendencies to desertion and 
fiiint-heartedness, the Doctor silenced him at once, and 
sternly forbade him to utter the name of the Mazitu 
any more. 

Had the natives not assisted him, he must have de- 
spaired of ever being able to penetrate the wild and 
unexplored interior which he was now about to tread. 
"Fortunately," as the Doctor says with unction, "I was 
in a country now, after leaving the shores of Nyassa, 
which the foot of the slave-trader has not trod ; it 



444 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

was a new and virgin land, and of course, as I have 
always found in such cases, the natives were really good 
and hospitable, and for very small portions of cloth 
my baggage was conveyed from village to village by 
them." In many other ways the traveller, in his ex- 
tremity, was kindly treated by the yet unsophisticated 
and innocent natives. 

On leavmg this hospitable region in the early part 
of December, 18 (36, the Doctor entered a country where 
the Mazitu hnd exercised their customary marauding 
propensities. The land was swept clean of provisions 
and cattle, and the people had emigrated to other 
countries, beyond the bounds of those ferocious plun- 
derers. Again the expedition was besieged by the 
pinching hunger they suffered ; they had recourse to 
the wild fruits which some parts of the country fur- 
nished. At intervals the condition of the hard-pressed 
band was made worse by the heartless desertion of some 
of its members, who more than once departed with the 
Doctor's persoi ud kit, changes of clothes, linen, &c. 
With more or less misfortunes constantly dogging 
his footsteps, he traversed in safety the countries 
of the Babisa, Bobemba, Barungu, Ba-ulungu, and 
Lunda. 

In the country of Lunda lives the famous Cazembe, 
who was first made known to Europeans by Dr. Lacerda, 
the Portuguese traveller. Cazembe is a most intelligent 
prince ; he is a tall, stalwart man, who wears a peculiar 
kind of dress, made of crimson print, in the form of a 
prodigious kilt. In this state dress, King Cazembe 
received Dr. Livingstone, surrounded by his chiefs and 
body-guards. A chief, who had been deputed by the 
King and elders to discover all about the white man, 
then stood up before the assembly, and in a loud voice 



I 



i 



^ov 1871.1 INTEPxCOVRSE WITH LIVINGSTONE. 445 

gave the result of the inquiry he had instituted. He had 
heard that the white man had come to look for waters. 
for rivers, and seas ; thoug]i he could not understand 
what the white man could want witli such things, he 
had no doubt that the object was good. Then Cazembe 
asked what the Doctor proposed doing, and where he 
thought of going. Tlie Doctor replied that he had 
thought of proceeding south, as he had heard of lakes 
and rivers being in that direction. Cazembe asked, 
" What can you want to go there for ? The water is 
close here. There is plenty of large water in this neigh- 
bourhood." Before breaking up the assembly, Cazembe 
gave orders to let the white man go where he would 
through his country undisturbed and unmolested. He 
was the first Englishman he had seen, he said, and he 
liked him. 

Shortly after his introduction to the King, the Queen 
entered the large house, surrounded by a body-guard 
of Amazons with spears. She was a fine, tall, handsome 
young woman, and evidently thought she was about to 
make an impression upon the rustic white man, for she 
had clothed herself after a most royal fasliion, and was 
armed with a ponderous spear. But her appearance — 
so different from what the Doctor had imagined — caused 
him to laugh, which entirely spoiled the effect in- 
tended ; for the laugh of the Doctor was so contagious, 
that she herself was the first to imitate it, and the 
Amazons, courtier-like, followed suit. Much discon- 
certed by this, the Queen ran back, followed by her 
obedient damsels — a retreat most undignified and un- 
queenlike, compared with her majestic advent into the 
Doctor's presence. But Livingstone will have much to 
say about his reception at this court, and about this 
interesting King and Queen ; and who can so well rekte 



*46 EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

tlio scenes lie witnessed, and which belong exclusively 
to him, as he himself? 

Soon after his arrival in the country of Lunda, or 
Londa, and before he had entered the district ruled ovei 
by Cazembe, he had crossed a river called the Chambezi, 
which was quite an important stream. The similarity 
of the name with that large and noble river south, 
which will be for ever connected with his name, misled 
Livingstone at that time, and he, accordingly, did not 
pay to it the attention it deserved, believing that the 
Chambezi was but the head- waters of the Zambezi, and 
consequently had no bearing or connection with the 
sources of the river of Egypt, of which he was in search. 
His fault was in relying too implicitly upon the cor- 
rectness of Portuguese information. This error it cost 
him many months of tedious labour and travel to rectify. 

From the beginning of 1867 — the time of his arrival 
at Cazembe's — till the middle of March, 1869 — the time 
of his arrival at Ujiji — he was mostly engaged in cor- 
recting the errors and misrepresentations of the Por- 
tuguese travellers. The Portuguese, in speaking of 
the Eiver Chambezi, invariably spoke of it as " our 
own Zambezi," — that is, the Zambezi which flows 
through the Portuguese possessions of the Mozambique. 
" In going to Cazembe from Nyassa," said they, " you 
will cross our own Zambezi/' Such positive and 
reiterated information — given not only orally, but in 
their books and maps — was, naturally, confusing. 
When the Doctor perceived that what he saw and 
wliat they described were at variance, out of a sincere 
wish to be correct, and lest he might have been mis- 
taken himself, he started to re travel the ground he 
had travelled before. Over and over again he traversed 
the several countries watered by the several rivers of 



Nof, 1871.] INTERCOURSE WITH LIVINGSTONE. 447 

the complicated water sj^stem, like an uneas}^ spirit. 
Over and over again be asked the same questions from 
the different peoples he met, until he was obliged tr 
desist, lest they might say, " The man is mad ; he has 
got water on the brain !" 

But his travels and tedious labours in Lunda and 
the adjacent countries have established beyond doubt 
— first, that the Chambezi is a totally distinct river 
from the Zambezi of the Portuguese ; and, secondly, 
that the Chambezi, starting from about latitude 11 
south, is no other than the most southerly feeder of 
the great Nile ; thus giving that famous river a length 
of over 2,000 miles of direct latitude ; making it, second 
to the Mississippi, the longest river in the world. The 
real and true name of the Zambezi is Dombazi. When 
Lacerda and his Portuguese successors, coming to 
Cazembe, crossed the Chambezi, and heard its name, 
they very naturally set it down as "our own Zambezi," 
and, without further inquiry, sketched it as running in 
that direction. 

During his researches in that region, so pregnant 
in discoveries, Livingstone came to a lake lying 
north' east of Cazembe, which the natives call Liemba. 
from the country of that name which bordered it on 
the east and south. In tracing the lake north, he 
found it to be none other than the Tanganika, or 
the south-eastern extremity of it, which looks, on the 
Doctor's map, very much like an outline of Italy. Tlie 
latitude of the southern end of this great body of water 
is about 8° 42' south, which thus gives it a length, 
from north to south, of 360 geographical miles. From 
the southern extremity of the Tanganika lie crossed 
Marungu, and came in sight of Lake Moero. Tracing 
ihis lake, which is about sixty miles in length, to its 



448 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, 

soutliern head, he found a river, called the Luapiila^ 
entering it from that direction. Following the Luapula 
south, he found it issue from the large lake of Bang- 
weolo, whicli is nearly as large in superficial area as 
the Tangauika. In exploring for the waters which 
discharged tliemselves into the lake, he found that by far 
the most important of these feeders was the Chambezi ; 
so that he had thus traced the Chambezi from its source 
to Lake Jiangwcolo, and the issue from its northern 
head, under the name of Luapula, and found it enter 
Lake Moero. Again he returned to Cazembe's, well 
satisfied tl)at the river running north through three 
degrees of latitude could not be the river running 
south under the name of Zambezi, though there might 
be a remarkable resemblance in their names. 

At Cazembe's he found an old white-bearded half- 
caste named Mahomraed bin Sali, who was kept as a 
kind of prisoner at large by the King because of certain 
suspicious circumstances attending his advent and stay 
in the country. Through Livingstone's influence 
Mahommed bin Sali obtained his release. On the 
road to Ujiji he had bitter cause to regret having 
exerted himself in the half caste's behalf. He turned 
out to be a most ungrateful wretch, who poisoned the 
minds of the Doctors few followers, and ingratiated 
himself vAth them by selling the favours of his con- 
cubines to them, by which he reduced them to a kind of 
bondage under him. The Doctor was deserted by all 
but two, even faithful Susi and Chumah deserted him 
for the service of Mahommed bin Sali. But they soon 
repented, and returned to their allegiance. From the 
day he had the viJe old man in his company manifold 
and bitter misfortunes followed the Doctor up to his 
arrival at Ujiji in March, 1869. 



■J 



of considerable magnitude connected witli Moero by 
the large river called the Lualaba, and which was a 

2 G 



..^ 



xVov. 1871.] INTEBCOUBSE WITH LIVINGSTONS, 440 

From the date of his arrival until the end of June, 
18Gn, he remained at XJjiji, whence he dated those 
letters which, though the outside world still doubted 
!iis being alive, satisfied the minds of the Royal 
Geographical people, and his intimate friends, that he 
still existed, and that Musa's tale was the false though 
ingenious fabrication of a cowardly deserter. It was 
during this time that the thought occurred to him of 
sailing around the Lake Tanganika, but the Arabs and 
natives were so bent upon fleecing him that, had he 
undertaken it, the remainder of his goods would not 
have enabled him to explore the central line of drainage, 
the initial point of which he found far south of Cazembe's, 
in about latitude 11°, in the river called Chambezi. 

In the days when tired Captain Burton was resting 
in Ujiji, after his march from the coast near Zanzibar, 
the land to which Livingstone, on his departure from 
Ujiji, bent his steps was unknown to the Arabs save by 
vague report. Messrs. Burton and Spt-ke never heard 
of it, it seems. Speke, who was the geographer of 
Burton's expedition, heard of a place called Urua, 
which he placed on his map, according to the general 
direction indicated by the Arabs ; but the most enter- 
prising of the Arabs, in their search after ivory, only 
touched the frontiers of Rua, as the natives and Living- 
stone call it ; for Rua is an immense country, with a 
length of six degrees of latitude, and as yet an un- 
defined breadth from east to west. 

At the end of June, 1869, Livingstone quitted 
Ujiji and crossed over to Uguhha, on the western 
shore, for his last and greatest series of explorations ; 
the result of which was the further discovery of a lake 
of considerable magnitude connected with Moero by 
the large river called the Lualaba, and which was a 

2 G 



450 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, 

continuation of the chain of lakes he had previously 
discovered. 

From the port of Uguhha he set off, in company with 
a body of traders, in an almost direct westerly course, 
for the country of Urua. Fifteen days' march brought 
them to Bambarre, the first important ivory depot 
in Manyema, or, as the natives pronounce it, Ma- 
nyuema. For nearly six months he was detained at 
Bambarre from ulcers in the feet, which discharged 
bloody ichor as soon as he set tliem on the ground. 
When recovered, he set off in a northerly direction, and 
after several days came to a broad lacustrine river, 
called the Lualaba, flowing northward and westward, 
and in some places southward, in a most confusing way. 
The river was from one to three miles broad. By 
exceeding pertinacity he contrived to follow^ its erratic 
course, until he saw the Lualaba enter the narrow, long 
lake of Kamolondo, in about latitude 6° 30'. Eetracing 
this to the south, he came to the point wdiere he had 
seen the Luapula enter Lake Moero. 

One feels quite enthusiastic when listening to Living- 
stone's description of the beauties of Moero scenery. 
Pent in on all sides by high mountains, clothed to the 
edges with the rich vegetation of the tropics, the Moero 
discharges its superfluous waters through a deep rent 
in the bosom of the mountains. The impetuous and 
grand river roars through the chasm with the thunder 
of a cataract, but soon after leaving its confined and 
deep bed it expands into the calm and broad Lualaba, 
stretching over miles of ground. After making great 
bends west and south-west, and then curving north- 
ward, it enters Kamolondo. By the natives it is called 
the Lualaba, but the Doctor, in order to distinguish it 
from other rivers of the same name, has given it the 



Nov. 1871.] INTERCOURSE WITH LIVINGSTONE. 451 

name of " Webb's River," after Mr. Webb, the wealthy 
proprietor of Newstead Abbey, whom the Doctor distin- 
guishes as one of his oldest and most consistent friends. 
Away to the south-west from Kamolondo is another 
large lake, which discharges its waters by the important 
River Loeki, or Lomami, into the great Lualaba. To 
this lake, known as Chebungo by the natives, Doctor 
Livingstone has given the name of '* Lincoln," to be 
hereafter distinguished on maps and in books as Lake 
Lincoln, in memory of Abraham Lincoln, our murdered 
President. This was done from the vivid impression 
produced on his mind by hearing a portion of his 
inauguration speech read from an English pulpit, which 
related to the causes that induced him to issue his 
Emancipation Proclamation, by wdnch memorable deed 
4,000,000 of slaves w^ere for ever freed. To the me- 
mory of the man whose labours on behalf of the negro 
race deserves the commendation of all good men, 
Livingstone has contributed a monument more durable 
than brass or stone. 

Entering Webb's River from the south-south-west, a 
little north of Kamolondo, is a large river called Lufira, 
but the streams that discharge themselves from the water- 
shed into the Lualaba are so numerous that the Doctor's 
map would not contain them, so he has left all out except 
the most important. Continuing his way north, tracing 
the Lualaba through its manifold and crooked curves 
as far as latitude 4° south, he came to where he heard of 
another lake to the north, into which it ran. But here 
you may come to a dead halt, and read what lies beyond 

this spot thus This was the furthermost point, 

whence he was compelled to return on the weary road 
to Ujiji, a distance of 700 miles. 

In this brief sketch of Dr. Livingstone's wonderful 



452 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, 

fcravels it is to be hoped the most superficial reader, as 
\\ell as the student of geography, comprehends this 
grand system of lakes connected together by Webb's 
River. To assist him, let him glance at the map 
accompanying this book. He will then have a fair 
idea of what Dr. Livingstone has been doing during 
these long years, and what additions he has made to the 
study of African geography. That this river, dis- 
tLnguished under several titles, flowing from one lake 
into another in a northerly direction, with all its great 
crooked bends and sinuosities, is the Nile — the true 
Nile — the Doctor has not the least doubt. For a long 
time he entertained great scepticism, because of its deep 
bends and curves west, and south-west even ; but, 
having traced it from its head waters, the Cliambezi, 
through 7° of latitude— that is, from 11° S. to lat. 4° N. 
— he has been compelled to come to the conclusion that 
it can be no other river than the Nile. He had thought 
it was the Congo ; but has discovered the sources of the 
Congo to be the Kassai and the Kwango, two rivers 
which rise on the western side of the Nile watershed, 
in about the latitude of Bangweolo ; and he was told of 
another river, called tlie Lubilash, which ro.-e from 
the north, and ran west. But the Lualaba, the Doctor 
thinks, cannot be the Congo, from its great size and 
body, and from its steady and continued flow north- 
ward through a broad and extensive valley, bounded 
by enormous mountains westerly and easteily. The 
altitude of the most northerly point to which tlie Doctor 
traced the wonderful river was a little in excess of 
2,000 feet; so that, though Baker makes out liis lake 
to be 2,700 feet above tlie sea. yet the Balii- (Jliazal, 
through which Petherick's branch of the Wliite Nile 
issues into the Nile, is but 2,000 feet ; in wliic-h case 



Nov. 1871.] INTERCOURSE WITH LIVINGSTONE. 453 

there is a possibility that the Lualaba may be none other' 
than Petherick's branch. 

It is well known that trading stations for ivory have 
been established for about 500 miles up Petherick's 
branch. We must remember this fact when told that 
Gondokoro, in lat. 4° N., is 2,000 feet above the sea, 
and lat. 4° S., where the halt was made, is only a little 
over 2,000 feet above the sea. That the two rivers 
said to be 2,000 feet above the sea, separated from each 
other l)y 8^ of latitude, are one and the same river, 
may among some men be regarded as a startling state- 
ment. But we must restrain mere expressions of 
surprise, and take into consideration that this mighty 
and broad Lualaba is a lacustrine river broader than 
the Mississippi ; that at intervals the body of water 
forms extensive lakes ; then, contracting into a broad 
river, it again forms a lake, and so on, to lat. 4° ; 
and even beyond this point the Doctor hears of a large 
lake again north. 

We must wait also until the altitudes of the two 
rivers, the Lualaba, where the Doctor halted, and the 
southern point on the Bahr Ghazal, where Petherick 
has been, are known with perfect accuracy. 

Now, for the sake of argument, suppose we give tliis 
nameless lake a length of 6° of latitude, as it may 
be the one discovered by Piaggia, the Italian traveller, 
from wliicli Petherick's branch of the White Nile 
issues out through reedy marshes, into the Bahr Ghazal, 
thence into the White Nile, south of Gondokoro. By 
this metho;] we can suppose the rivers one ; for if 
the lake extends over so many degrees of latitude, 
the necessity of explaining the differences of altitude 
that mu^t naturally exist between two points of a 
river 8° ot latitude apart, would be obviated. 



154 HOW I FOUND UVINGSTONK 

Also, Livingstone's instruments for observation anj 
taking altitudes may have been in error ; and this is 
very likely to have been the case, subjected as they 
have been to rough handling during nearly six years 
of travel. Despite the apparent difficulty of the alti- 
tude, there is another strong reason for believing 
Webb's River, or the Lualaba, to be the Nile. The 
watershed of this river, 600 miles of which Livingstone 
has travelled, is drained from a valley which lies north 
and south between lofty eastern and western ranges. 

This valley, or Hue of drainage, while it does not 
receive the Kassai and the Kwango, receives rivers 
flowing from a great distance west, for instance, the 
important tributaries Liifira and Lomami, and large 
rivers from the east, such as the Lindi and Luamo ; 
and, while the most intelligent Portuguese travellers 
and traders state that the Kassai, the Kwango, and 
Lubilash, are the head waters of the Congo Eiver, no 
one has yet started the supposition that the grand 
river flowing north, and known by the natives as the 
Lualaba, was the Congo. 

This river may be the Congo, or, perhaps, the Niger. 
If the Lualaba is only 2,000 feet above the sea, and 
the Albert N'Yanza 2.700 feet, the Lualaba cannot 
enter that lake. If the Bahr Ghazal does not extend 
by an arm for eight degrees above Gondokoro, then 
the Lualaba cannot be the Nde. But it would be 
premature to dogmatize on the subject. Livingstone 
will clear up the point himself; and, if he finds it to 
be the Congo, will be the first to admit his error. 

Livingstone admits the Nile sources have not been 
found, though he has traced the Lualaba through 
seven degrees of latitude flowing north ; and, though 
he has not a particle of doubt of its being the Nile. 



Nov. 1871.1 INTERCOUBSE WITH LIVINGSTONE. 455 

not yet can the Nile question be said to be resolved 
and ended. For two reasons : 

1. He has heard of the existence of four fountains, 
two of which give birth to a river flowing north, Webb's 
River, or the Lualaba, and to a river flowing south, 
which is the Zambezi. He has repeatedly heard of these 
fountains from the natives. Several times he has 
been within 100 and 200 miles from them, but some- 
thing always interposed to prevent his going to see 
them. According to those who have seen them, they 
rise on either side of a mound or level, which contains 
no stones. Some have called it an ant-hill. One 
of these fountains is said to be so large that a man, 
standing on one side, cannot be seen from the other. 
These fountains must be discovered, and their position 
taken. The Doctor does not suppose them to be south 
of the feeders of Lake Bangweolo. In his letter to the 
* Herald ' he says : " These four full-grown gushing 
fountains, rising so near each other, and giving origin 
to four large rivers, answer in a certain degree to the 
description given of the unfathomable fountains of the 
Nile, by the secretary of Minerva, in the city of Sais, 
in Egypt, to the father of all travellers — Herodotus." 

For the information of such readers as may not have 
the original at hand I append the following from Cary*s 
translation of Herodotus : — 

With respect to the sources of the Nile, no man of all the 
Egyptians, Libyans, or Grecians, with whom I have conversed, ever 
pretended to know anything, except the registrar of Minerva's treasury 
at Sais, in Egypt. He, indeed, seemed to be trifling with me when he 
said he knew perfectly well; yet his account was as follows: "That 
there are two mountains, rising into a sharp peak, situated between 
the city of Syene, in Thebais, and Elephantine. The names of these 
mountains are, the one Crophi, the other Mophi ; that the sources of 
the Nile, which are bottomless, flow from between these mountains j 



466 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

and that half of the water flows over Egypt and to the north, the othel 
half over Ethioi^ia and the south. That the fountains of the Nile are 
bottomless, he said, Psamraitichus, King of Egypt, proved by experi- 
ment : for, having caused a line to be twisted many thousand fathoms in 
Length, he let it down, but could not find a bottom."' Such, then, was the 
opinion the registrar gave, if, indeed, he spoke the real truth ; proving, 
in my opinion, tliat there are strong whirlpools and an eddy licre, so that 
the water beating against the rocks, a sounding-line, when let down, 
cannot reach the b<<ttom, I was unable to learn anytliing more from 
any one else. But thus much I learnt by carrying my researches as 
far as possible, having gone and made my own observations as far as 
Elephantine, and beyond that obtaining information from hearsay. 
As one ascends tlse river, above the city of Elephjuitine, tlie country is 
steep; here, therefore, it is necessary to attach a rope on both sides of 
a boat, as one d -es with an ox in a plough, and so proceed ; but if the 
rope should happen to ])reak. the boat is carried away by the force of 
the stream. This kind of country lasts for a four-days' passage, and 
the Nile here winds as much as the Mfeander. There are twelve 
schoeni, which it is necessary to sail through in this manner; and after 
that you will come to a level plain, where the Nile flows round an 
island ; its name is Tachompso. Ethiopians inhabit the country 
immediately ab:)ve Ele})hantine, and one half of the island ; the other 
half is inhabited by P>gyptians. Near to this island lies a vast lake, 
on the borders of which Ethiopian nomades dwell. After sailing 
through this lake you will come to the channel of the Nile, which flows 
into it: then you will have to land and travel f(jrty diiys by the side of 
the river, for shar}) rocks rise in the Nile, and there are many sunken 
ones, through which it is not possible to navigate a boat. Having 
passed this country in the forty days, you must go on board another 
boat, and s:iil for twelve days ; and then you will arrive at a large city, 
called Meroe : th;s city is said to be the capital of all E hiopia. The 
inhabitants worship no other gods than Jupiter and Bacchus ; but these 
they honour with great magnificence. They have also an oracle of 
Jupiter ; and tliey make war whenever that god bids them by an oracular 
warning, and against whatever country he bids tl:eni. Sailing from 
this city, you w 11 arrive at the country of the Automoli, in a S2)ace of 
time e(iunl t'j th:it whch you took in coming from Elephantine to the 
capital of the Ethiopians. These Automoli are called by the name of 
Asmak, which, in tin- language of Greece, signifies -'those that stand 
at the left hand of the king." These, to the number of two hundred 
and forty thousaml of the Egyptian war-tribe, revolt d to the Ethio- 
pians on the fl!" i II ^ occasion. In the reign of King rsamniitichus 
garrisons were sta 'ned at Elephantine against the Ethiopians, and 



Nov. 1871] INTERCOURSE WITH LIVINGSTONE. 457 

another at tlio Peliisian Daphnse against the Arahians and Syrians, 
and another at Marea against Libya ; and even in my time garrisons 
of the Persians are stationed in the same places as they were in the 
time of Psammitichus, for they maintain guards at Elephantine and 
Daphnae. Now, these Egyptians, after they had been on duty three 
years, were not relieved ; therefore, having consulted together and 
come to an unanimous resolution, they all revolted from Psammitichus, 
and went to Ethiopia. Psammitichus, hearing of this, pursued them ; 
and wlien he overtook them he entreated them by many arguments, 
and adjured them not to forsake the gods of their fathers, and their 
children and wives. But one of them is reported to have uncovered 
his private parts, and to have said, " that wheresoever these were, 
there they should find both children and wives." These men, when 
they arrived in Ethiopia, oflfered their services to the king of the 
Ethiopians, who made them the following recompence. There were 
certain Ethiopians disafi'ected towards him ; these lie bade them expel, 
and take possession of their land. By the settlement of these men 
among the Ethiopians, the Ethiopians became more civilized, and 
learned the manners of the Egyptians. 

Now, for a voyage and land journey of four months, the Nile is 
known, in addition to the part of the stream that is in Egypt; for, 
upon computation, so many months are known to be spent by a person 
who travels from Elephantine to the Automoli. This river flows from 
the west and the setting of the sun; but beyond this no one is able 
to speak with certainty, for the rest of the country is desert by reason 
of the excessive heat. But I have heard the following account from 
certain Cyrcufeans, who say that they went to the oracle of Ammon, 
and had a conversation with Etearchus, King of the Animonians, and 
that, among other subjects, they happened to discourse about the Nile 
— that nobody knew its sources; whereupon Etcarehus said that 
certain Nasainonians once came to him — this nation is Lybian, and 
inhabits the Syrtis, and the country for no great distance eastward of 
the Syrtis — and that when these Nasamonians arrived, and were asked 
if they could give any farther information touching the deserts of 
Libya, they answered, that there were some daring youths amongst 
them, scms of powerful men; and that they, having reached man's 
estate, forrr^cd rr.aiiy '^ther extravigant plans> R!**^, m'»r"0"'^n chose five 
of their number by lot to explore the deserts of Libya, to see if they 
could make any further discovery than those who had penetrated the 
farthest. (For, as respects the parts of Libya along the Northern 
Sea, beginning from Egypt to the promontory of S.)l()is, where is the 
extremity of Libya, Libyans and various nations of Libyans reach 
all along it, except those parts which are occupied by Grecians and 



458 HOW I FOUND LIVJNGSTONE. 

Phoenicians ; but as respects the parts above the sea, and those nations 
which reach down to the sea, in the upper parts Libya is infested by 
wild beasts ; and all beyond that is sand, dreadfully short of water, 
and utterly desolate.) They further related, " that when the young 
men deputed by their companions set out, well furnished with water 
and prov sions, they passed first through the inhabited country ; and 
having traversed this, they came to the region infested by wild 
beasts ; and after this they crossed the desert, making their way 
towards the west ; and when they had traversed much sandy ground, 
during a journey of many days, they at length saw some trees 
growing in a plain ; and that they approached and began to gather 
the fruit that grew on the trees ; and while they were gathering, some 
diminutive men, less than men of middle stature, came up, and having 
seized them carried them away ; and that the Nasamonians did not at 
all understand their language, nor those who carried them off the 
language of the Nasamonians. However, they conducted them through 
vast morasses, and when they had passed these, they came to a city, 
in which all the inhabitants were of the same size as their conductors, 
and black in color : and by the city flowed a great river, running from 
the west to the east, and that crocodiles were seen in it." Thus far I 
have set forth the account of Etearchus the Ammonian ; to which may 
be added, as the Cyrenagans assured me, " that he said the Nasamonians 
all returned safe to their own country, and that the men whom they 
came to were all necromancers." Etearchus also conjectured that this 
river, which flows by their city, is the Nile ; and reason so evinces : 
for the Nile flows from Libya, and intersects it in the middle ; and 
(as I conjecture, inferring things unknown from things known) it 
sets out from a point corresponding with the Ister. For the Ister, 
beginning from the Celts, and the city of Pyrene, divides Europe in its 
course ; but the Celts are beyond the pillars of Hercules, and border 
on the territories of the Cynesians, who lie in the extremity of Europe 
to the westward ; and the Ister terminates by flowing through all 
Europe into tlie Euxine Sea, where a Milesian colony is settled in 
Istria. Now the Ister, as it flows through a well peopled country, is 
generally known ; but no one is able to speak about the sources of 
the Nile, because Libya, through which it flows, is uninhabited and 
desolate. Respecting this stream, therefore, as far as I was able to 
reach by inquiry, I have already spoken. It however discharges 
itself into E^;ypt ; and Egypt lies, as near as may be, opposite to the 
mountains of Cilicia ; from whence to Sinope, on the Euxine Sea, is a 
five days' journey in a straight line to an active man ; and Sinope ia 
opposite to the Ister, where it discharges itself into the sea. So I 
think that the Nile, traversing the whole of Libya, may be properly 



Nov. 1871.] INTEBCOURSE WITH LIVINGSTONE. 462 

compared with the Ister. Such, then, is the account that I am ahle to 
give respecting the Nile. 



2. Webb's Eiver must be traced to its connection 
with some portion of the old Nile. 

When these two things have been accomplished, 
then, and not till then, can the mystery of the Nile be 
explained. The two countries through which the 
marvellous lacustrine river, the Lualaba, flows, with its 
manifold lakes and broad expanse of water, are Rua 
(the Uruwwa of Speke) and Manyuema. For the first 
time Europe is made aware that between the Tangan- 
ika and the known sources of the Congo there exist 
teeming millions of the negro race, who never saw, or 
heard of, the white people who make such a noisy and 
busy stir outside of Africa. Upon the minds of those 
who had the good fortune to see the first specimen of 
these remarkable white races in Dr. Livingstone, he 
seems to have made a favourable impression, though, 
through misunderstanding his object, and coupling him 
with the Arabs, who make horrible work there, his life 
was sought more than once. These two extensive coun- 
tries, Eua and Manyuema, are populated by true heathens, 
governed, not as the sovereignties of Karagwah, Urundi, 
and Uganda, by despotic kings, but each village by its 
own sultan or lord. Thirty miles outside of their own 
immediate settlements, the most intelligent of these 
small chiefs seem to know nothing. Thirty miles from 
the Lualaba, there were but few people who had ever 
heard of the great river. Such ignorance among the 
natives of their own countries naturally increased the 
labours of Livingstone. Compared with these, all 
tribes and nations in Africa with whom Livingstone 
came in contact may be deemed civilized, yet, in the 



460 ' HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, 

arts of home man-afacture, these wild people of Ma- 
nyucma were far superior to any he had seen. Where 
other tribes and nations contented themselves with 
hides and skins of animals thrown negligently over 
their shoulders, the people of Manynema manufactured a 
cloth from fine grass, which may favourably compare 
with the finest grass cloth of India. They also know 
the art of dyeing them in various colours — black, 
yellow, and purple. The Wangwana, or freed-men 
of Zanzibar, struck with the beauty of the fabric, 
eagerly exchange their cotton cloths for fine grass 
cloth ; and on almost every black man from Manyuema 
I have seen this native cloth converted into elegantly 
made damirs (Arabic) — short jackets. These countries 
are also very rich in ivory. The fever for going to 
Manyuema to exchange tawdry beads for its precious 
tusks, is of the same kind as that which impelled 
men to the gulches and placers of California, Colorado, 
Montana, and Idaho ; after nuggets to Australia, and 
diamonds to Cape Colony. Manyuema is at present 
the El Dorado of the Arabs and the Wamrima tribes. 
It is only about four years since that the first Arab 
returned from Manyuema, with such wealth of ivory, 
and reports about the fabulous quantities found there, 
that ever since the old beaten tracks of Karagwah, 
Uganda, Ufipa, and Marungu, have beer -comparatively 
deserted. The people of Manyuema, ignorant of the 
value of the precious article, reared their huts upon 
ivory stanchions. Ivory pillars were common sights 
in Manyuema, and, hearing of these, one can no 
longer wonder at the ivory palace of Solomon. For 
generations they have used ivory tusks as door-posts 
and supports to the eaves, until they had become 
perfectly rotten and worthless. But the advent of 



Nov. 1871.] INTERCOURSE WITH LIVINGSTONE. 461 

the Arabs soon taught them the value of the article. 
It has now risen considerably in price, though still 
fabulously cheap. At Zanzibar, the value of ivory per 
frasilah of 35 lbs. weight is from $50 to $60, according 
to its quality. In Unyanyembe it is about $1*10 per 
pound, but in Manyuema it may be purchased for from 
half a cent to li cent's worth of copper per pound of 
ivory. The Arabs, however, have the knack of spoiling 
markets by their rapacity and cruelty. With muskets, 
a small party of Arabs is invincible against such 
people as those of Manyuema, who, until lately, never 
heard the sound of a gun. The discharge of a musket 
ir«;pires mortal terror in them, and it is almost im- 
possible to induce them to face the muzzle of a gun. 
They believe that the Arabs have stolen the lightning, 
and that against such people the bow and arrow can 
have little effect. They are by no means devoid of 
courage, and they have often declared that, were it not 
for the guns, not one Arab would leave the country 
alive ; this tends to prove that they would willingly 
engage in fight with the strangers who have made 
themselves so detestable, were it not that the startling 
explosion of gunpowder inspires them with terror. 

Into what country soever the Arabs enter, they con- 
trive to render their name and race abominated. But 
the mainspring of it all is not the Arab's nature, color, 
or name, but simply the slave-trade. So long as the 
slave trade is permitted to be kept up at Zanzibar, so 
long will these otherwise enterprising people, the 
Arabs, kindle against them the hatred of the natives 
throughout Africa. 

On the main line of travel from Zanzibar into the 
interior of Africa these acts of cruelty are unknown. 
for the very good reason that the natives having 



462 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, 

been armed with guns, and taught how to use thosu 
weapons, are by no means loth to do so whenever 
an opportunity presents itself. When, too late, they 
have perceived their folly in selling guns to the 
natives, the Arabs now begin to vow vengeance on 
the person who will in future sell a gun to a native. 
But they are all guilty of the same mistake, and it 
is strange they did not perceive that it was folly 
when they were doing so. In former days the Arab, 
when protected by his slave escort, armed with 
guns, could travel through Useguhha, Urori, Ukonongo, 
Ufipa, Karagwah, Unyoro, and Uganda, with only a 
stick in his hand ; now, however, it is impossible for 
him or any one else to do so. Every step he takes, 
armed or unarmed, is fraught with danger. The 
Waseguhha, near the coast, detain him, and demand 
the tribute, or give him the option of war ; entering 
Ugogo, he is subjected every day to the same oppres- 
sive demand, or to the fearful alternative. The Wa- 
nyamwezi also show their readiness to take the 
same advantage ; the road to Karagwah is besieged 
with difficulties ; the terrible Mirambo stands in the 
way, defeats their combined forces with ease, and makes 
raids even to the doors of their houses in Unyanyembe ; 
and should they succeed in passing Mirambo, a chief — 
Swaruru — stands before them who demands tribute by 
the bale, and against whom it is useless to contend. 
These remarks have reference to the slave-trade 'naugu- 
rated in Manyuema by the Arabs. Harassed on the 
road between Zanzibar and Unyanyembe by minatory 
natives, who with bloody hands are ready to avenge 
the slightest affront, the Arabs have refrained from 
kidnapping between the Tanganika and the sea ; but 
in Manyuema, where the natives are timid, irresolute, 



Nov. 1871.J INTERCOURSE WITH LIVINGSTONE. 463 

and divided into small weak tribes, they recover their 
audacity, and exercise their kidnapping propensities 
unchecked. The accounts which the Doctor bring? 
from that new region are most deplorable. He was 
an unwilling spectator of a horrible deed — a massacre 
committed on the inhabitants of a populous district who 
had assembled in the market-place on the banks of the 
Lualaba, as they had been accustomed to do for ages. 
It seems that tlie Wamanyuema are very fond of mar- 
keting, believing it to be the summum honum of human 
enjoyment. They find endless pleasure in chaffer- 
ing with might and main for the least mite of their 
currency — the last bead ; and when they gain the point 
to which their peculiar talents are devoted, they feel in- 
tensely happy. The women are excessively fond of this 
marketing, and, as they are very beautiful, the market- 
place must possess considerable attractions for the male 
sex. It was on such a day, amidst such a scene, that 
Tagamoyo, a half-caste Arab, with his armed slave 
escort, commenced an indiscriminate massacre by firing 
volley after volley into the dense mass of human beings. 
It is supposed that there were about 2,000 present, and 
at the first sound of the firing these poor people all 
made a rush for their canoes. In the fearful hurry to 
avoid being shot, the canoes were paddled away by the 
first fortunate few who got possession of them ; those 
that were not so fortunate sprang into the deep waters 
of the Lualaba, and though many of them became an 
easy prey to the voracious crocodiles which swarmed to 
the scene, the majority received their deaths from the 
bullets of the merciless Tagamoyo and his villanous 
band. The Doctor believes, as do the Arabs them- 
selves, that about 400 people, mostly women and 
children, lost their lives, while many more were made 



464 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, 

slaves. This outrage is onlj one of many such he has 
unwiHingly witnessed, and he is utterly unable to 
describe tlie feelings of loathing he feels for the inhu- 
man perpetrators. Slaves from Manyuema command a 
higher price than those of any other country, because 
of their fine forms and general docility. The women, 
the Doctor said repeatedly, are remarkably pretty crea- 
tures, and have nothing, except the hair, in common 
with the negroes of the West Coast. They are of very 
light color, have fine noses, well-cut and not over-full 
lips, while the prognathous jaw is uncommon. These 
women are eagerly sought after as wives by the half- 
castes of the East Coast, and even the pure Omani 
Arabs do not disdain to take them in marriage. To 
the north of Manyuema, Livingstone came to a light- 
complexioned race, of the color of Portuguese, or our 
own Louisiana quadroons, who are very fine people, 
and singularlj^ remarkable for commercial " 'cuteness'^ 
and sagacity. The women are expert divers for oysters, 
which are found in great abundance in the Lualaba. 

Rua, at a place called Katanga, is rich in copper. The 
copper-mines of this place have been worked for ages. 
In the bed of a stream, gold has been found, washed 
down in pencil-shaped pieces or in particles as large as 
split peas. Two Arabs have gone thither to prospect 
for tliis metal ; but, as they are ignorant of the art of 
gulch-mining, it is scarcely possible that they will 
succeed. From these highly-important and interesting 
discoveries. Dr. Livingstone was turned back, when 
almost on the threshold of success, by the positive 
refusal of In's men to accompany him further. They 
were afraid to go on unless accompanied by a large force 
of men ; and, as these were not procurable in Manyuema, 
the Doctor reluctantly turned his face towards Ujiji. 



Nov. 1871.] INTERCOURSE WITH LIVINGSTONE. 465 

It was a long and weary road back. The joTirney 
had now no interest for him. He had traveller 1 tlie road 
before when going westward, full of hi^-h liopes and 
aspirations, impatient to reach the goal which promised 
him rest from his labors — now, returning unsuccessful, 
baffled, and thwarted, when almost in sight of the end, 
and having to travel the same path back on foot, with 
disappointed expectations and defeated hopes preying 
on his mind, no wonder that the old brave spirit 
almost succumbed, and the strong constitution almost 
went to wreck. 

Livingstone arrived at Ujiji, October 16th, almost at 
death's door. On the way he had been trying to cheer 
himself up, since be had found it impossible to contend 
against the obstinacy of his men, with, " It won't take 
long ; five or six months more ; it matters not since it 
cannot be helped. I have got my goods in Ujiji, and 
can hire other people, and make a new start again." 
These are the words and hopes by which he tried to 
delude himself into the idea that all would be right yet; 
but imagine the shock he must have suffered, when he 
found that the man to whom was entrusted his goods 
for safe keeping had sold every bale for ivory. 

The evening of the day Livingstone had returned to 
Ujiji, Susi and Chuma, two of his most faithful men, 
were seen crying bitterly. The Doctor asked of them 
what ailed them, and was then informed, for the first 
time, of the evil tidings that awaited him. 

I Said they, " All our things are sold, sir ; Sherif has 
sold everything for ivory." 
Later in the evening, Sherif came to see him, and 
shamelessly offered his hand, but Livingstone repulsed 
him, saying he could not shake hands with a thief. As 
an excuse, Sherif said he had divined on the Koran, 
1" ^ ° 



166 EOW 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

and that this had told him the Hakim (Arabic for 
Doctor) was dead. 

Livingstone was now destitute ; he had just enough 
to keep him and his men alive for about a month, when 
lie would be forced to beg from the Arabs. 

The Doctor further stated, that when Speke gives 
the altitude of the Tanganika at only 1,800 feet above 
\\ie sea, Speke must have fallen into that error by a 
frequent writing of the Anno Domini, a mere slip of 
the pen ; for the altitude, as he makes it out, is 2,800 
feet by boiling point, and a little over 3,000 feet by 
barometer. 

The Doctor's complaints were many because slaves 
were sent to him, in charge of goods, after he had so often 
implored the people at Zanzibar to send him freemen. 
A very little eifort on the part of those entrusted with the 
despatch of supplies to him might have enabled them 
to procure good and faithful freemen ; but if they 
contented themselves, upon the receipt of a letter from 
Dr. Livingstone, with sending to Ludha Damji for 
men, it is no longer a matter of wonder that dishonest 
and incapable slaves were sent forward. It is no new 
fact that the Doctor has discovered when he states that 
a negro freeman is a hundred times more capable and 
trustworthy than a slave. Centuries ago Eumaeus, the 
herdsman, said to Ulysses — 

" Jove fixed it certain, that whatever day 
Makes man a slave, takes half his worth away." 

Dr. Livingstone states that he has repeatedly enjoined 
on Dr. Kirk not to send him slaves. None knew better 
how trustless they were ; and one can conceive — each 
time he was thwarted and baffled by these incapables — • 
how hopeless his mission would seem to him. It must 



Nov. 1871.] INTERCOURSE WITE LIVINGSTONE. 467 

be for ever a matter of regret to the friends of both 
gentlemen that Dr. Livingstone's entreaties on tliis 
subject were not better understood. 

There is one point, also, on which I wish to mnkc 
some observations, and that is, on the ** doctoring" oF 
Livingstone's despatches. If a traveller in Central 
Africa discovers anything, wlietlier it be a lake, moun- 
tain, plain, or river, and arrives at some conclusions 
respecting his discovery, his reasons, above all others, 
should have greatest weight. Often the reasons are 
manifold — too many, at least, to be written in a despatch 
— and he is compelled, for lack of space, to withhokl them, 
until such time as he can embody them in a book. In 
such a case, it must be obvious to all, that easy-chair 
geographers, in the absence of accurate data, cannot 
improve upon the despatch of the original discoverer 
and explorer; and no opinions, advanced with the view 
of disproving the fact, should justify readers in attaching 
weight or importance to them. 

Livingstone has refrained from communicating with 
the Royal Geographical Society as a body ; but he wrote 
to his friend. Sir Roderick Murchison, and, whatever 
was contained in the lengthy letters, the President of 
the Society would be justified in laying them — as he 
was expected to do — before the august scientific body of 
which he was chief. But, as Livingstone has related 
to me, and as he has written to other friends, the reason 
that he has refrained from giving detailed disclosures is 
his fear that his despatches may be subjected to captious 
emendations, to suit pet theories — many of the critics 
being oblivious of the fact that what he relates he 



468 BOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, 

has teen permitted to know only after persevering 
exploration. 

It is a laniental)le thing, truly, that discoverers 
may not utter what they know to be indisputable 
truths, without being supposed to belong to a partisan 
clique to unsettle the pet theories of geographers at 
home, or without being accused of "distorting well- 
known facts," If the " learr^ed Mr. Cooley " has drawn 
from tlie hearsay of an Arab the outlines of a large 
lake which occupies tlie whole of Central Africa, em- 
bracing the several lakes of Nyassa, Tanganika, and 
the N'Yanza, why should he not admit at once tliat he 
is in error, when Livingstone, Burton, Speke, Grant, 
Wakefield, New, Roscher, Yonderdecken, and Baker, 
prove that there are several lakes, far and wide apart, 
bearing different names ? There is very little extra 
labor in sketching six lakes more than there is in the 
outlining of one large one. And the testimony of such 
an array of travellers, surely, ought to have greater 
weight than that of one Arab. Yet Mr. Cooley accuses 
me of deafness, or misapprehension, when I state that 
the Lake Tanganika is a separate body of water by 
itself; and he has been angry with Captain Burton ever 
since his discovery of that lake. With all his erudition 
on geographical matters, he yet lacks the moial courage 
of confessing himself in error. But Mr. Cooley is only a 
type of a small body of geographers ; this Cooleyism 
' — despite large experience, erudition, and high faculties 
— evidently is contagious ; for Mr. F. Galton, with a 
wonderful suavity of manner, and an elongated smile, 
called my defence of the explorer " a sensational story ;" 



Nov. 1871.] INTEBCOURSE WITH LIVINGSTONE, 469 

while Dr. Beke, with all the persistence of a man with 
a hobby, emphatically declared that Livingstone had 
NOT discovered the sources of the Nile. This emphatic 
declaration of a hastily-formed opinion cannot, surely, 
be anything but deplorable fatuity on the part of 
Dr. Bcke. Neither of the three gentlemen whose 
names I have mentioned are entitled to more ciedence 
than tlie great explorer, who has written his notes 
on this point in lat. S. 4° and long. E. 25° in Central 
Africa. ^ 

-Well, Doctor Livingstone, despising this Cooleyism, 
whicli means obstinacy, intolerance, and narrow-minded- 
ness declares he will keep his notes to himself; and 
indeed, in my humble opinion, he has done very rights 
The Geographical Society was instituted to disseminate 
and ])iomote the knowledge of the true geogiaphy 
of all countries. If the Society were leavened with 
this Cooleyism, and resolutely closed its ears against 
the revelations of explorers, how could it ever attain the 
object for which it was constituted and incorporated? 
Would such conduct be encouraging to explorers ? If 
the members allowed themselves to be swayed by petty- 
jealousies, pet fancies, crude and impossible theories, 
would men go and expend thousands of dollars to the 
enlightenment of the world respecting the mysterious 
interior of Africa ? 

I have advanced no opinions of my own respecting 
anything I have not seen, as I am not ambitious of 
being vilified more than I have been already. I am, 
unfortunately, under the ban of the displeasure of some 
geogi'aphers, because, unconsciously, I have performed 



470 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

what they desired to have had done by one of their 
own number. 

I believed — and so, indeed, did all the world — that 
their great Associate was an object of concern to them ; 
— ^they were anxious to know — so they said — if David 
Livingstone was alive. This anxiety was shared by 
Americans; and an American newspaper proprietor 
suddenly undertook to despatch a man on a mission of 
search and relief to Central Africa. The man selected 
happened to be successful, returned back to civilisation, 
and proclaimed that Livingstone, the great explorer, was 
alive. Whereupon the news was pooh-poohed ! The 
President of the Royal Geographical Society declared 
it to be nonsense ; the Vice-President declared it to be 
a sensational story ; Cooleyism declared it to be deaf- 
ness and misapprehension ; and a Beke declared that 
the iheo?y of Dr. Livingstone was impossible. Nearly 
all England, and a great part of America, was plunged 
into perplexity ; but, gradually, proofs were brought 
forward of the great fact, that Livingstone was not 
only alive, but that he wrote every letter which pur- 
ported to have been written by him, without a single 
phrase, suggestion, or interpolation from any other 
hand. Then began attacks on the character of the 
unfortunate newspaper correspondent. One individual 
called him a " charlatan, and a liar ;" another insinnated 
that he was anything but what he professed to be ; 
while others thought that the much-abused journalist 
had stolen the despatches from a messenger ; and much 
else of everything that was vile and unjust. 

Permit the humble newspaper correspondent to ask 



Nov. 1871.] INTERCOURSE WITH LIVINQ STONE. 471 

all geographers, editors, reviewers, critics, and scandal- 
mongers, if you had continued your debating, theorising 
and discussing, wrangling, guessing and speculating 
— good God ! gentlemen, between you all, whither 
had David Livingstone, the illustrious explorer, gone 
to, if some one had not conveyed to him comfort, 
health, and aid ? 

Little did Dr. Livingstone think that his humble 
friend would be rewarded by attacks such as these, and 
little thought I that my humble efforts, which had 
been carried out with singleness of purpose and uncon- 
sciousness of the possibility of envy or malice, would 
have been so received. In my innocence I thought I 
had only to tell my story honestly and truly, 
and that it would be at once received by all with- 
out cavil and without doubt, and it is not unnatural 
that I should feel aggrieved at attacks upon my 
honour and my veracity in quarters where I had 
least expected it, and where I had most hoped for a 
different reception. 

The Doctor entertained grave doubts as to the 
propriety of sending any despatches to the Royal 
Geographical Society, without a guaranty that the infor- 
mation conveyed to it would not be made the subject 
of pecuniary profit. For the private information of the 
members he was very willing to relate what he knew; 
but he was unwilling that his discoveries should be at 
the beck and call of any member who had a desire to 
enrich himself at his expense. He also complained 
that a certain member had unscrupulously made use 
of a rough sketch-map he had sent to the Society, 



472 BOW I FO UND LIVINGSTONE. 

to illustrate his route ; and, on Livingstone's return, 
when he declared his wish to have a correct map 
made, according to observations verified and corrected 
by the Cape of Good Hope Observatory, this member 
turned round, and informed him how he had been 
working at that map five or six months, and he could 
not think of making a new one unless he was paid some- 
thing like £200 for his trouble. Such facts as these Dr. 
Livingstone complains of. Of the Royal Geographical 
Society, as a body, he entertains the highest respect, 
and thiiiks with pride of his relations with them. He 
complains only against the few members whom he 
supposes to have " doctored " his despatcheo, icQ'matized 
and theorized against him, and altered his maps, to 
suit their own idiopathies and Cooleyistic fancies. But 
though these members are few, they are too influential 
to be passed by witliout notice. 

AYe passed several happy days at Ujiji, and it was 
time we were now preparing for our cruise on the 
Tanganika. Livingstone was imj)roving every day 
under the different diet which my cook furnished him. 
I could give him no such suppers as that which Jupiter 
and Mercury received at the cottage of Baucis and 
Philemon. We had no berries of chaste Minerva, 
piclded cherries, endive, radishes, dried figs, dates, 
fragrant apples, and grapes; but we had cheese, and 
butter which I made myself, new-laid eggs, chickens, 
roast mutton, fish from the lake, rich curds and cream, 
wine from the Guinea palm, egg-plnnts, cucumbers, 
sweet potatoes, pea-nuts, and beans^ white honey from 
Ukaranga, luscious singwe — a plum-like fruit — from the 



Nov. 1871.] INTERCOUBSE WITH LIVINGSTONE, 473 

forests of Ujiji, and corn scones and dampers, in place 
of wheaten bread. 

During the noontide heats we sat under onr veranda 
discussing our various projects, and in tlie early morning 
and evening we sought the shores of the lake — prome- 
nading up and down the beach to breathe the cool 
breezes which raffled the surface of tlie water, and 
rolled the unquiet surf far up on the smooth and 
whitened shore. 

It was the dry season, and we had most lovely 
weather ; the temperature never was over 80° in the 
shade. 

The market-place overlooking the broad silver water 
afforded us amusement and instruction. Itepresentatives 
of most of the tribes dwelling near the lake were daily 
found there. There were the agricultural and pastoral 
Wajiji, with their flocks and herds; there were the 
fishermen from Ukaranga and Kaole, from beyond 
Bangwe, and even from Urundi, with thuir whitebait, 
which they called dogara^ the silurus, the perch, and other 
fish ; there were the palm-oil merchants, principally 
from Ujiji and Urundi, with great five-gallon pots full 
of reddish oil, of the consistency of butter ; there were 
the salt merchants from the salt-plains of Uvinza and 
Uhha ; there were the ivory merchants from Uvira 
and Usowa ; there were the canoe-makers from Ugorna 
and Urundi ; there were the cheap- Jack pedlers from 
Zanzibar, selling flimsy prints, and brokers exchanging 
blue mutunda beads for sami-sami, and sungomazzi, and 
sofi. The sofi beads are like pieces of thick clay-pipe stem 
about half an inch long, and are in great demand here. 



474 EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, 

Here were found Waguliha, Wamanyuema, Wagoma, 
Wavira, Wasige, Warundi, Wajiji, Waha, Wavinza, 
\Vasowa, Wangwana, Wakawendi, Arabs, and Wasa- 
waliili, engaged in noisy chaffer and barter. Bare- 
headed, and almost barebodied, the youtlis made love to 
the dark-skinned and woolly -headed Phyllises, who 
knew not how to blush at the ardent gaze of love, as 
their white sisters; old matrons gossiped, as the old 
w^omen do everywhere; the children played, and 
laughed, and struggled, as children of our own lands ; 
and the old men, leaning on their spears or bows, were 
just as garrulous in the Place de Ujiji as the aged 
elders of other climes. 



yv,oM f 



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V 



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VIEW ON LAKE TANGANIKA. 



CHAPTER XIII, 



OUR CRUISE ON THE TANUANIKA, 



** I distinctly deny that * any misleading by my instructions from 
the Royal Geographical Society as to the position of the White Nile * 
made me unconscious of the vast importance of ascertaining the 
direction of the Rusizi River. The fact is, we did our best to reach 
it, and we failed." — Burton's Zanzibar. 

" The universal testimony of the natives to the Rusizi River being 
an influent is the most conclusive argument that it does run out of 
the lake." — Speke. 

" I therefore claim for Lake Tanganika the honour of being the 
Southernmost Reservoir of the Nile, until some more positive 
evidence, by actual observation, shall otherwise determine it."-^ 
Findlay, R.G.S. 

Had Livingstone and myself, after making up our 
minds to visit the northern head of the Lake Tanganika, 
been compelled by the absurd demands or fears of a 
crew of Wajiji to return to Unyanyembe without having 



476 now I FO UND LIVINGSTONE. 

resolved the problem of the Rusizi River, we had surely 
deserved to l)e greeted by everybody at home with 
a universal ,a'io-g]iiig and cackling. But Capt. Burton's 
failure to settle it, by engaging Wajiji, and tliat ridi- 
culous savage chief Kannena, had warned us of the 
negative assistance we could expect from such people 
for the solution of a geographical problem. We had 
enough good sailors with us, who were entirely under 
our commands. Could we but procure the loan of a 
canoe, we thought all might be well. 

Upon api)lication to Sayd bin Majid, he at once 
generously permitted us to use his canoe for any service 
for which we might require it. After engaging two 
Wajiji guides at two doti each, we prepared to sail 
from the port of Ujiji, in about a week or so after my 
entrance into Ujiji. 

I have already stated how it was that the Doctor and 
I undertook the exploration of the northern half of the 
Tanganika and the River Rusizi, about which so much 
had been said and written. 

Before embarking on this enterprise, Dr. Livingstone 
had not definitely made up his mind which course 
he should take, as his position was truly deplorable. 
His servants consisted of Susi, Chumah, Hamoydah, 
Gardner, and Halimah, the female cook and wife of 
Hamoydah ; to these was added Kaif-Halek, tlie man 
whom I compelled to follow me from Unyanyembe to 
deliver the Livingstone letters to his master. 

Whither could Dr. Livingstone march with these 
few men, and the few table-cloths and beads that re- 
mained to him from the store squandered by the imbe- 
cile Sherif? This was a puzzling question. Had Dr. 
Livingstone been in good health, his usual hardihood 
and indomitable spirit had answered it in a summary 



Nov. 1871.] OUR CRUISE ON THE TANGANIKA. 477 

way. He might have borrowed some cloth from Sayd 
bin Majid at an exorbitant price, sufficient to bring 
liim to Unyanyembe and the sea-coast. But how long 
would he have been compelled to sit down at Ujiji, 
waiting and waiting for the goods that were said to be 
at Unyanyembe, a prey to high expectations, hoping 
day after day that the war would end — hoping week 
after week to hear that his goods were coming ? Who 
knows how long his weak health had borne up against 
the several disappointments to which he would be 
subjected ? 

Though it was with all due deference to Dr. Living- 
stone's vast experience as a traveller, I made bold to 
suggest the following courses to him, either of which 
he could adopt : 

1st. To go home, and take the rest he so well de- 
served, and, as he appeared then, to be so much in 
need of. 

2nd. To proceed to Unyanyembe, receive his goods, 
and enlist pagazis sufficient to enable him to travel 
anywhere, either to Manyuema or Rua, and settle the 
Nile problem, which he said he was in a fair way of 
doing. 

3rd. To proceed to Unyanyembe, receive his caravan, 
enlist men, and try to join Sir Samuel Baker, either 
by going to Muanza, and sailing through Ukerewe or 
Victoria N'Yanza in my boats — which I should put up 
— to Mtesa's palace at Uganda, thus passing by Mirambo 
and Swaruru of Usui, who would rob him if he took 
the usual caravan road to Uganda ; thence from Mtesa 
to Kamrasi, King of Unyoro, where he would of course 
hear of the great white man who was said to be with a 
large force of men at Gondokoro. 

4th. To proceed to Unyanyembe, receive his caravan, 



478 SOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE 

enlist men, and return to TJjiji, and back to Manyuema 
by way of Uguhha. 

5tli. To proceed by way of tbe Rnsizi tbrongh 
Ruanda, and so on to Ttara, Unyoro, and Baker. 

For either course, wbichever he thought most ex- 
pedient, I and my men would assist him as escort and 
carriers, to the best of our ability. If he should elect to 
go home, I informed him I should be proud to escort 
him, and consider myself subject to his commands — 
travelling only when he desired, and camping only 
when he gave the word. 

6th. The last course which I suggested to him, was 
to permit me to escort him to Unyanyembe, where 
he could receive his own goods, and where 1 could 
deliver up to him a large supply of first-class cloth and 
beads, guns and amm.unition, cooking utensils, clothing, 
boats, tents, &c., and where he could rest in a comfort- 
able house, while I would hurry down to the coast, 
organize a new expedition composed of fifty or sixty 
faithful men, well armed, by whom I could send an 
additional supply of needful luxuries in the shape of 
creature comforts. 

After long consideration, he resolved to adopt the 
last course, as it appeared to him to be the most feasible 
one, and the best, though he did not hesitate to com- 
ment upon the unaccountable apathy of his agent at 
Zanzibar, which had caused him so much trouble and 
vexation, and weary marching of hundreds of miles. 

Our ship — though nothing more than a cranky canoe 
hollowed out of the noble mvule tree in Ugoma — was 
an African Argo, bound on a nobler enterprise than its 
famous Grecian prototype. We were bound upon no 
mercenary errand, after no Golden Fleece, but perhaps 
to discover a highway for commerce which should 



Nov. 1871.] OUR CRUISE ON THE TANOANIKA. 479 

bring the ships of the Nile up to Ujiji, Usowa, and far 
Marunga. We did not know what we might discover 
on our voyage to the northern head of the Tanganika ; 
we supposed that we should find the Rusizi to be an 
effluent of the Tanganika, flowing down to the Albert 
or the Victoria N'Yanza. We were told by natives 
and Arabs that the Rusizi ran out of the lake. 

Sayd bin Majid had stated that his canoe would 
carry twenty-five men, and 3,500 lbs. of ivory. Acting 
upon this information, we embarked twenty -five men, 
several of whom had stored away bags of salt for tlie 
purposes of trade with the natives ; but upon pushing 
off from the shore near Ujiji, we discovered the boat 
was too heavily laden, and was down to the gunwale. 
Returning in-shore, we disembarked six men, and 
unloaded the bags of salt, which left us with sixteen 
rowers, the Arab boy Selim, Ferajji the cook, and tlie 
two Wajiji guides. 

Having thus properly trimmed our boat we again 
pushed off, and steered her head for Bangwe Island, 
which was distant four or five miles from the Bunder 
of Ujiji. While passing this island the guides informed 
us that the Arabs and Wajiji took shelter on it during 
an incursion of the Watuta — which took place some 
years ago —when they came and invaded Ujiji, and mas- 
sacred several of the inhabitants. Those who took refuge 
on the island were the only persons who escaped the fire 
and sword with which the Watuta had visited Ujiji. 

After passing the island and following the various 
bends and indentations of the shore, we came in sight 
of the magnificent bay of Kigoma, which strikes one 
at once as being an excellent harbor from the variable 
winds which blow over the Tanganika. About 10 a.m. 
we drew in towards the village of Kigoma, as the east 



480 EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, 

wind was then rising, and threatened to drive us to 
sea. With those travelling parties who are not in 
much hurry Kigoma is always the first port for canoes 
bound north from Ujiji. The next morning at dawn 
we struck tent, stowed baggage, cooked, and drank 
coffee, and set off northward again. 

The lake was quite calm; its waters, of a dark-green 
color, reflected the serene blue sky above. The 
hippopotami came up to breathe in alarmingly close 
proximity to our canoe, and then plunged their heads 
again, as if they were playing hide-and-seek with ns. 
Arriving opposite the high wooded hills of Bemba, and 
being a mile from shore, we thought it a good oppor- 
tunity to sound the depth of the water, whose color 
seemed to indicate great depth. We found thirty-five 
fathoms at this place. 

Our canoeing of this day was made close in-shore, 
with a range of hills, beautifully wooded and clothed 
with green grass, sloping abruptly, almost precipitously, 
into the depths of the fresh-water sea, towering imme- 
diately above us, and as we rounded the several capes 
or points, roused high expectations of some new wonder, 
or some exquisite picture being revealed as the deep 
folds disclosed themselves to us. Nor were we dis- 
appointed. The wooded hills, with a wealth of boscage 
of beautiful trees, many of which were in bloom, and 
crowned with floral glory, exhaling an indescribably 
sweet fragrance, lifting their heads in varied contour 
— one pyramidal, another a truncated cone ; one table- 
topped, another ridgy, like the steep roof of a church ; 
one a glorious heave with an even outline, another 
jagged and savage — interested us considerably ; and the 
pretty pictures, exquisitely pretty, at the head of the 
several bays, evoked many an exclamation of admiration, 



Nov. 1871.] OUn CBUISE ON THE TANGANIKA, 481 

It was the most natural thing in the world that T should 
feel deepest admiration for these successive pictures of 
quiet scenic beauty, but the Doctor had quite as much to 
say about them as I had myself, though, as one might 
imagine, satiated with pictures of this kind far more 
beautiful — far more wonderful — he should long ago 
have expended all his powers of admiring scenes in 
nature. 

From Bagamoyo to TJjiji I had seen nothing to com- 
pare to them — none of these fishing settlements under 
the shade of a grove of palms and plantains, banians 
and mimosa, with cassava gardens to the right and left 
of palmy forests, and patches of luxuriant grain looking 
down upon a quiet bay, whose calm waters at the early 
morn reflected the beauties of the hills which sheltered 
them fiom the rough the boisterous tempests that so 
often blew without. 

'i1ie fishermen evidently think themselves comfortably 
situated. The lake affords them all the fish they re- 
quire, more than enough to eat, and the industrious a 
great deal to sell. The steep slopes of the hills, 
cultivated by the housewives, contribute plenty of 
grain, such as dourra and Indian corn, besides cassava, 
ground-nuts or pea-nuts, and sweet potatoes. The 
palm trees afford oil, and the plantains an abundance 
of delicious fruit. The ravines and deep gullies supply 
them with the tall shapely trees from which they cut 
out their canoes. Nature has supplied them bountifully 
with all that a man's heart or stomach can desire. It 
is while looking at what seems both externally and 
internally complete and perfect happiness that the 
thought occurs — how must these people sigh, when 
driven across the dreary wilderness that intervenes 
between the lake country and the sea-coast, for such 

2 I 



482 EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

homes as these ! — those unfortunates who, lought hy 
the Arabs for a couple of doti, are taken away to 
Zanzibar to pick cloves, or do hamal work 1 

As we drew near Niasanga, our second camp, the 
comparison between the noble array of picturesque hills 
and receding coves, with their pastoral and agricultural 
scenes, and the shores of old Pontus, was very great. 
A few minutes before we hauled our canoe ashore, 
two little incidents occurred. I shot an enormous dog- 
faced monkey, which measured from nose to end of tail 
4 feet 9 inches ; the face was 8^ inches long, its body 
weighed about 100 lbs. It had no mane or tuft at end 
of tail, but the body was covered with long wiry hair. 
Numbers of these specimens w(.'re seen, as well as of the 
active cat-headed and long-tailed smaller ones. The 
other was the sight of a large lizard, about 2| feet long, 
which waddled into cover before we had well noticed 
it. The Doctor thought it the Monitor terrestris. 

We encamped under a banian tree ; our surroundings 
were the now light-grey waters of the Tanganika, an 
amphithcatral range of hills, and the village of Niasanga, 
situated at the mouth of the rivulet Niasanga, with its 
grove of palms, thicket of plantains, and plots of grain 
and cassava fields. Near our tent were about half-a- 
dozen canoes, large and small^ belonging to the villagers. 
Our tent door fronted the glorious expanse of fresh 
water, inviting the breeze, and the views of distant 
Ugoma and Ukaramba, and the Island of Muzimu, 
whose ridges appeared of a deep-blue color. At our 
feet were the clean and well-washed pebbles, borne 
upward into tiny lines and heaps by the restless surf. 
A search amongst these would reveal to us the 
material of the mountain heaps which rose behind and 
on our right and left; there was schist, conglomerate 



Nov. 1871.] OUR CRUISE ON THE TANQANIKA. 483 

Bandstone, a hard white clay, an ochreish clay containing 
much iron, polished quartz, &c. Looking out of our 
tent, we could see a line on each side of us of thick tall 
reeds, which formed something like a hedge between 
the beach and the cultivated area around Niasanga. 
Among birds seen here, the most noted were the merry 
wagtails, which are regarded as good omens and 
messengers of peace by the natives, and any harm done 
unto them is quickly resented, and is fineable. Except 
to the mischievously inclined, they offer no inducement 
to commit violence. On landing, they flew to meet us, 
balancing themselves in the air in front, within easy 
reach of our hands. The other birds were crows, 
turtle-doves, fish-hawks, kingfishers, ibis nigra and ibis 
religiosa, flocks of whydah birds, geese, darters, paddy 
birds, kites, and eagles. 

At this place the Doctor sufiered from diarrhoea — it 
is his only weak point, he says ; and, as I afterwards 
found, it is a frequent complaint with him. Whatever 
disturbed his mind, or any irregularity in eating, was 
sure to end in diarrhoea. With me it was quite the 
reverse ; any exposure to malaria, encamping near a 
fetid swamp, or mind disturbed, was sure to produce 
excessive costiveness, and perhaps an attack of ague. 

The third day of our journey on the Tanganika 
brought us to Zassi River and village, after a four 
hours' pull. Along the line of road the mountains 
rose 2,000 and 2,500 feet above the waters of the lake. 
I imagined the scenery getting more picturesque and 
animated at every step, and thought it by far lovelier 
than anything seen near Lake George or on the 
Hudson. The cosy nooks at the head of the many 
small bays constitute most admirable pictures, filled in 
as they are with the ever-beautiful feathery palms and 

2 I 2 



484 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTON!':. 

broad green plantain fronds. These nooks have all 
been taken possession of by fishermen, and tlieir 
conically beehive-shaped huts always peep from under 
the frondage. The shores are tlnis extremely populous ; 
every terrace, small plateau, and bit of level ground 
is occupied. 

Zassi is easily known by a group of conical hills 
which rise near by, and are called Kirassa. Opposite to 
these, at the distance of about a mile from shore, we 
sounded, and obtained 35 fathoms, as on the previous 
day. Getting out a mile further, I let go the whole 
length of my line, 115 fathoms, and obtained no 
bottom. In drawing it up again the line parted, and 
I lost the lead, with three-fourths of the line. The 
Doctor stated^ apropos of this, that he had sounded 
opposite the lofty Kabogo, south of Ujiji, and obtained 
the great depth of 300 fathoms. He also lost his lead 
and 100 fathoms of his line, but he had nearly 900 
fathoms left, and this was in the canoe. We hoped 
to use this long sounding line in going across from the 
eastern to the western shore. 

On the fourth day we arrived at Nyabigma, a sandy 
island in Ururidi. We had passed the boundary line 
between Ujiji and Urundi half-an-hour before arriving 
at Nyabigma. The Mshala River is considered by both 
nations to be the proper divisional line ; though there 
are parties of Warundi who have emigrated beyond the 
frontier into Ujiji ; for instance, the Mutware and 
villagers of populous Kagunga, distant an hour north 
from Zassi. There are also several siiiall parties of 
Wajiji, who have taken advantage of the fine lands in 
the deltas of the Kasokwe, Namusinga, and Luaba 
Rivers, the two first of which enter the Tanganika in 
this bay, near the head of which Nyabigma is situated. 



Nov. 1871.] OUR CRUISE ON TEE TANQANIKA, 485 

From Nyabigma, a pretty good view of tlie deep 
curve in the great mountain range which stretches 
from Cape Kaziriga and terminates at Cape Kasofn, 
may be obtained — a distance of twenty or twenty- five 
miles. It is a most imposing scene, this great humpy, 
rilgy, and irreguhir Hue of mountains. Deep ravines 
and chasms afford outlets to the numerous streams and 
rivers which take their rise in the background ; the 
pale fleecy ether almost always shrouds its summit. 
From its base extends a broad alluvial plain, rich 
beyond description, teeming with palms and plantains, 
and umbrageous trees. Villages are seen in clusters 
everywhere. Into this alluvial plain run the Luaba, 
or Ruaba River, on the north side of Cape Kitunda, and 
the Kasokwe, Namusinga, and Mshala Rivers, on the 
south side of the cape. All the deltas of rivers empty- 
ing into the Tanganika are hedged in on all sides 
with a thick growth of matete, a gigantic species of 
grass, and papyrus. In some deltas, as that of Luaba 
and Kasokwe, morasses have been formed, in which the 
matete and papyrus jungle is impenetrable. In the 
depths of them are quiet and deep pools, frequented by 
various aquatic birds, tsuch as geese, ducks, snipes, 
widgeons, kingfishers and ibis, cranes and storks, and 
pelicans. To reach their hamits is, however, a work of 
great difficulty to the sportsman in quest of game ; a 
work often attended with great danger, from the 
treacherous nature of these morasses, as well as from 
the dreadful attacks of fever which, in these regions, 
invariably follow wet feet and wet clothes. 

At Nyabigma we prepared, by distributing ten rounds 
of ammunition to each of our men, for a tussle with the 
Warundi of two stages ahead, should they invite it by a 
too forward exhibition of their prejudice to strangers. 



i86 now I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

At dawn of the fifth day we quitted the haven ol 
Nyabigma Island, and in less than an hour had arrived 
off Cape Kitunda. This cape is a low platform of con- 
glomerate sandstone, extending for about eight miles 
from the base of the great mountain curve which gives 
birth to the Luaba and its sister streams. Crossing the 
deep bay, at the head of which is the delta of the Luaba, 
we came to Cape Kasofu. Villages are numerous in this 
vicinity. From hence we obtained a view of a series 
of points or capes, Kigongo, Katunga, and Buguluka, 
all of which we passed before coming to a halt at the 
pretty position of Mukuugu. 

At Mukungu, where we stopped on the fifth day, we 
were asked for honga, or tribute. The cloth and 
beads upon which we subsisted during our lake voyage 
were mine, but the Doctor, being the elder of the two, 
more experienced, and the " big man " of the party, had 
thecharge of satisfying all such demands. Many and many 
a time had I gone through the tedious and soul-wearying 
task of settling the honga, and I was quite curious to 
see how the great traveller would perform the work. 

The Mateko (a man inferior to a Mutware) of 
Mukungu asked for two and a half doti. Tliis was the 
extent of the demand, which he made known to us a 
little after dark. The Doctor asked if nothiug had 
been brought to us. He was answered, '" No, it was 
too late to get anything now ; but. if we paid the 
honga, the Mateko would be ready to give us some- 
thing when we came back." Livingstone, upon hearing 
this, smiled, and the Mateko being then and there in 
front of him, he said to him^ " Well, if you can't get us 
anything now, and intend to give us something when we 
return, we had better keep the honga until then." The 
Mateko was rather taken aback at this, and demurred 



Nov. 1871.] OUR CRUI8E ON THE TANOANIKA. 487 

to any sucli proposition. Seeing that he was dis- 
satisfied, we urged him to bring one sheep — one little 
sheep — for our stomachs were nearly empty, having 
been waiting more than half a day for it. The appeal 
was successful, for the old man hastened, and brouglit 
us a lamb and a three-gallon pot of sweet but strong 
zogga, or palm toddy, and in return the Doctor gave 
him two and a half doti of cloth. The lamb was killed, 
and, our digestions being good, its flesh agreed with us ; 
but, alas, for the effects of zogga, or palm toddy ! 
Susi, the invaluable adjunct of Dr. Livingstone, and 
Bombay, the headman of my caravnn, were the two 
charged with watching the canoe ; but, having imbibed 
too freely of this intoxicating toddy, they slept heavily, 
and in the morning the Doctor and 1 had to regret the 
loss of several valuable and indispensable things ; among 
which may be mentioned the Doctors i^OO-fathom 
sounding-line, 500 rounds of pin, rim, and central-fire 
cartridges for my arms, and ninety musket bullets, 
also belonging to me. Besides these, which were indis- 
pensable in hostile Warundi, a large bag of flour and 
the Doctor's entire stock of white sugar were stolen. 
This was the third time that my reliance in Bombay's 
trustworthiness resulted in a great loss to me, and for 
the ninety-ninth time I had to regret bitterly having 
placed such entire confidence in Speke's and Grant's 
loud commendation of him. It was only the natural 
cowardice of ignorant thieves that prevented the 
savages from taking the boat and its entire contents, 
together with Bombay and Susi as slaves. I can well 
imagine the joyful surprise which must have been called 
forth at the sight and exquisite taste of the Doctor's 
sugar, and the wonder with which they must have 
regarded the strange ammunition of the Wasungu. It 



488 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, 

is to be sincerely hoped they did not hurt themselves 
with the explosive bullets and rim cartridges through 
any ignorance of the nature of their deadly contents ; 
in which case the box and its contents would prove a 
very Pandora's casket. 

Much grieved at our loss^ we set off on the sixth day 
at the usual hour on our watery journey. We coasted 
close to the several low headlands formed by the rivers 
Kigwena, Kikumu, and Kisunwe ; and when any bay 
promised to be interesting steered the canoe according 
to its indentations. \Yhile travelling on the water — 
each day bi'ought forth similar scenes -on our right 
rose tlie mountains of Urundi, now and then disclosing 
the ravines through which the several rivers and streams 
issued into the great lake ; at their base were the 
alluvial plains, where flourished the oil palm and grate- 
ful plantain, while scores of villages were grouped under 
their shade. Now and then we passed long narrow 
strips of pebbly or sandy beach, whereon markets were 
improvised for selling fish and the staple products of 
the respective communities. Then we passed broad 
swampy morasses, formed by the numerous streams 
which the mountains discliargod, where the matete and 
papyrus flourished. Now the mountains approached to 
the water; their sides descending abruptly to the 
water's edge, then they receded into deep folds, at the 
base of which w^as sure to be seen an alluvial plain 
from one to eight miles broad. Almost constantly 
we observed canoes being punted vigorously close to 
the surf, in fearless defiance of a catastrophe, such as 
a capsize and gobbling-up by voracious crocodiles. 
Sometimes we sighted a canoe a short distance ahead 
of us ; whereupon our men, with song and chorus, 
Would exert themselves to the utmost to overtake 



Xov. 1871.] OUR CRUISE ON THE TANOANJKA 48S 

it. Upon observing our efforts, the natives would 
bend themselves to their tasks, and paddling standing 
and stark naked, give us ample opportunities for study- 
ing at our leisure comparative anatomy. Or we saw a 
group of fishermen lazily reclining in purls 7iaturalibus 
on the beach, regarding with curious eye the canoes 
as they passed their neighbourhood ; then we passed a 
flotilla of canoes, their owners sitting quietly in their 
huts, busily plying the rod and hook, or casting their 
nets, or a couple of men arranging their long drag nets 
close in shore for a haul ; or children sporting fearlessly 
in the water, with their mothers looking on approvingly 
from under the shade of a tree, from which I infer that 
there are not many crocodiles in the lake, except in the 
neighbourhood of the large rivers. 

After passing the low headland of Kisunwe, formed 
by the Kisunwe River, we came in view of Murembwe 
Cape, distant about four or five miles: the intervening 
ground being low land, a sandy and pebbly beach. 
Close to the beach are scores of villages, while the 
crowded shore indicates the populousness of tlie place 
beyond. About half way between Cape Kisunwe and 
Murembwe, is a cluster of villages called Bikari, 
which has a Mutware who is in the habit of taking 
honga. As we were rendered unable to cope for 
any length of time with any mischievously inclined 
community, all villages having a bad reputation with 
the Wajiji were avoided by us. But even tlie Wajiji 
guides were sometimes mistaken, and led us more than 
once into dangerous places. The guides evidently 
had no objections to halt at Bikari, as it was the 
second camp from Mukungu ; because with them 
a halt in the cool shade of plantains was infinitely 
preferable to sitting like carved pieces of wood in a 



190 BOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

cranky canoe. But before they stated their objections 
and preferences, the Bikari people called to us in a loud 
voice to come ashore, threatening us with the vengeance 
of the great Wami if we did not halt. As the voices 
were anything but siren-like, we obstinately refused to 
accede to the request. Finding threats of no avail, 
they had recourse to stones, and, accordingly, flung 
them at us in a most hearty manner. As one came 
within a foot of my arm, I suggested that a bullet be 
sent in return in close proximity to their feet ; but 
Livingstone, though he said nothing, yet showed 
plainly enough that he did not quite approve of this. 
As these demonstrations of hostility were anything but 
welcome, and as we saw^ signs of it almost every time 
we came opposite to a village, we kept on our way 
until we came to Murembwe Point, which, being a 
delta of a river of the same name, was well protected 
by a breadth of thorny jungle, spiky cane, and a thick 
growth of reed and papyrus, from which the boldest 
Mrundi might well shrink, especially if he called to 
mind that beyond this inhospitable swamp were the 
guns of the strangers his like had so rudely chal- 
lenged. We drew our canoe ashore here, and, on a 
limited area of clean sand, Ferajji, our rough-and- 
ready cook, lit his fire, and manufactured for us a 
supply of most delicious Mocha coffee. Despite the 
dangers which still beset us, we were quite happy, and 
seasoned our meal with a little moral philosophy, which 
lifted us unconsciously into infinitely superior beings 
to the pagans by whom we were surrounded — upon 
whom we now looked down, under the influence of Mocha 
coffee and moral philosophy, with calm contempt, not 
unmixed with a certain amount of compassion. The 
Doctor related some experiences he had had among 



Nov. 1871.] OUR CRUISE ON THE TANQANIKA. 401 

people of similar disposition, but did not fail to ascribe 
them, witli the wisdom of a man of ripe experiences, to 
the unwise conduct of the Arabs and half-castes ; in 
this opinion I unreservedly concur. 

From Murembwe Point, having finished our coffee 
and ended our discourse on ethics, we proceeded on our 
voyage, steering for Cape Sentakeyi, which, though it 
was eight or ten miles away, we hoped to make before 
dark. The Wangwana pulled with riglit good will, but 
ten hours went by, and night was drawing near, and we 
were still far from Sentakeyi. As it was a fine moon- 
light night, and we were fully alive to the dangerous 
position in which we might find ourselves, they con- 
sented to pull an hour or two more. About 8 p.m., we 
pulled in shore for a deserted spot — a clean shelf of sand, 
about thirty feet long by ten deep, from which a clay 
bank rose about ten or twelve feet above, while on each 
side there were masses of disintegrated rock. Here 
we thought, that by preserving some degree of silence, 
we might escape observation, and consequent annoyance, 
for a few hours, when, being rested, we might con- 
tinue our journey. Our kettle was boiling for tea, and 
the men had built a little fire for themselves, and had 
filled their black earthen pot with water for porridge, 
when our look-outs perceived dark forms creeping 
towards our bivouac. Being hailed, they at once came 
forward, and saluted us with the native " Wake." 
Our guides explained that we were Wangwana, and 
intended to camp until morning, when, if they had 
anything to sell, we should be glad to trade with them. 
They said they were rejoiced to hear this, and after they 
had exchanged a few words more — during which time 
we observed that they were taking mental notes of the 
camp — th.ey went away. Upon leaving, they promised 



492 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

to return in the morning with food, and make fi- lends 
with us. While drinking our tea, the look-outs warned 
us of the approach of a second party, whicli went through 
the same process of saluting and observing as tlie first 
had done. Tliese also went away, over-exuberant, as I 
thought, and were sliortly succeeded by a third party, 
who came and went as the others had. From all this 
we inferred that the news was spreading rapidly 
through tlie villages about, and we had noticed two 
canoes passing backwards and forwards with rather more 
haste than we deemed usual or necessary. We had good 
cause to be suspicious ; it is not customary for people 
(at least, between Ujiji and Zanzibar) to be about visit- 
ing and saluting after dark, under any pretence ; it is 
not permitted to persons to prowl about camp after dark 
without being shot at ; and this going backward and for- 
ward, this ostentatious exuberance of joy at the arrival 
of a small party of Waugwana, which in many parts of 
Urundi would be regarded as a very common event, 
was altogether very suspicious. While tho Doctor and 
I were arriving at the conclusion that the^e move- 
ments were preliminary to or significant of hostility, a 
fourth body, very boisterous and loud, came and visited 
us. Our supper bad been by this time despatched, and 
we thought it high time to act. The fourth party having 
gone with extravagant manifestations of delight, the 
men were hurried into the canoe, and, when all were 
seated, and the look-outs embarked, we quietly pushed off, 
but not a moment too soon. As the canoe was gliding 
from the darkened light that surrounded us, I called 
the Doctor's attention to several dark forms ; some of 
whom were crouching behind the rocks on our right, 
and others scrambling over them to obtain good or 
better positions ; at the same time people were approach- 



Nov. 1871.] OUR CRUISE ON THE TANOANIKA, 403 

ing from the left of our position, in the same suspicious 
way ; and directly a voice hailed us from the top of the ' 
clay bank overhanging the sandy shelf where we had 
lately been resting. " Neatly done," cried the Doctor, 
as we were shooting through the water, leaving the 
discomfited would-be robbers behind us. Here, again, 
my hand was stayed . from planting a couple of good 
shots, as a warning to them in future from molesting 
strangers, by the mere presence of the Doctor, who, as I 
thought, if it were actually necessary, would not hesitate 
to give the word. 

After pulling six hours more, during which we had 
rounded Cape Sentakeyi, we stopped at the small 
fishing village of Mugeyo, where we were permitted 
to sleep unmolested. At dawn w^e continued our 
journey, and about 8 a.m. arrived at the village of the 
friendly Mutware of Magala. We had pulled for 
eighteen hours at a stretch, which, at the rate of two 
miles and a half per hour, would make forty-five miles. 
Taking bearings from our camp at Cape Magala, one 
of the most prominent points in travelling north from 
Ujiji, we found that the large island of Muzimu, 
which had been in sight ever since rounding Cape 
Bangwe, near Ujiji Bunder, bore about south-south- 
west, and that the western shore had considerably 
approached to the eastern ; the breadth of the lake 
being at this point about eight or ten miles. We had 
a good view of the western highlands, which seemed to 
be of an average height, about 3,000 feet above the 
lake. Luhanga Peak, rising a little to the north of 
west from Magala, might be about 500 feet higher ; 
and Sumburizi, a little north of Luhanga, where lived 
Mruta, Sultan of Uvira, the country opposite to this 
part of Urundi, about 300 feet higher than the neigh- 



494 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

boring heiglits. Nortliward from Magala Cape the 
lake streamed away between two chains of mountains ; 
both meeting in a point about thirty miles north of us. 

The Warundi of Magala were very civil, and pro- 
found starers. They flocked around the tent door, and 
most pertinaciously gazed on us, as if we were subjects 
of most intense interest, but liable to sudden and 
eternal departure. The Mutware came to see us late 
in the afternoon, dressed with great pomp. He turned 
out to be a boy whom I had noticed in the crowd of 
gazers for his good looks and fine teeth, which he 
showed, being addicted to laughing, continually. There 
was no mistaking him, though he was now decorated 
with many ivor} ornaments, with necklaces, and with 
heavy brass bracelets and iron wire anklets. Our 
admiration of him was reciprocated ; and, in return for 
our two doti of cloth and a fundo of samsam, he gave 
a fine fat and broad-tailed sheep, and a pot of milk. 
In our condition both were extremely acceptable. 

At Magala we heard of a war raging between 
Mukamba, for whose country we were bound, and 
Warumashanya, a Sultan of an adjoining district ; and 
we were advised that^ unless we intended to assist one 
of these chiefs against the other, it would be better 
for us to return. But, as we had started to solve the 
problem of the Rusizi River, such considerations had 
no weight with us. 

On the eighth morning from leaving Ujiji we bade 
farewell to the hospitable people of Magala, and set off 
for Mukamba's country, which was in view. Soon 
after passing the boundary between Urundi proper, 
and what is known as Usige, a storm from the south- 
west arose ; and the fearful yawing of our canoe 
into the wave trough warned us from proceeding 



Xov. 1871.] OUR CEUISE OJS THE TANGANIKA. 495 

further ; so we turned her head for Kisuka village, 
about four miles north, where Mugere, in Usige, 
begins. 

At Kisuka a Mgwana living with Mukainba came to 
see us, and gave us details of the war between Mu- 
kamba and Warumashanya, from which it seemed that 
these two chiefs were continually at loggerheads. It is 
a tame way of fighting, after all. One chief makes a 
raid into the other's country, and succeeds in making 
off with a herd of cattle, killing one or two men who 
have been surprised. Weeks, or perhaps months elapse 
before the other retaliates^ and effects a capture in a 
similar way, and tlien a balance is struck in which 
neither is the gainer. Seldom do they attack each 
other with courage and hearty good will, the constitu- 
tion of the African being decidedly against any such 
energetic warf ;re. 

This Mgwana, further, upon being questioned, gave 
us information far more interesting, viz., about the 
Rusizi. He told us positively, with the air of a man 
who knew all about it, and as if anybody who doubted 
him might well be set down as an egregious ass, that the 
Rusizi River flowed out of the lake, away to Suna's 
(Mtesa's) country. "Where else could it flow to?" he 
asked. The Doctor was inclined to believe it, or, 
perhaps, he was more inclined to let it rest as stated until 
our own eyes should confirm it. I was more inclined to 
doubt, as I told the Doctor ; first, it was too good to be 
true ; second, the fellow was too enthusiastic upon a 
subject that could not possibly interest him. His 
"Barikallahs" and "Inshallahs" were far too fervid; his 
answers too much in accordance with our wishes. The 
Doctor laid great stress on the report of a Mgwana 
he met far south, who stated that the grandfather oi 



496 BOW 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

father of Rumanlka, present King of Karngwah, had 
thought of excavating the bed of the Kitangule River, 
in order tliat his canoes miglit go to Ujiji to open a 
trade. From this T imagine, coinciding as it did with 
his often-expressed and present firm behef that the 
waters of the Tanganika have an outlet somewhere, the 
Doctor was partial to tlie report of the Mgwana ; but 
as we proceed we shall see how all this will end. 

On the ninth morning from Ujiji, about two hours 
after sunrise, we passed the broad delta of the Mugere, 
a river which gives its name also to the district on the 
eastern shore ruled over by Mukamba. We had coine 
directly opposite the most southern of its three mouths, 
when we found quite a difference in the colour of the 
water. An almost straight line, drawn east and west 
from the mouth would serve well to mark off the 
difference that existed between the waters. On the 
south side was pure water of a light green; on 
the north side it was muddy, and the current could 
be distinctly seen flowing north. Soon after passing 
the first mouth we came to a second, and then a third 
mouth, each only a few yards broad, but each dis- 
charging sufficient water to permit our following the 
line of tlie currents several rods north beyond the re- 
spective mouths. 

Beyond the third mouth of the Mugere a bend dis- 
closed itself, with groups of villages beyond on its 
bank. These were Mukamba's, and in one of them 
lived Mukamba, the chief. The natives had yet never 
seen a white man, and, of ^.ourse, as soon as we landed 
we wer^ surrouided by a large concourse, all armed 
with long spears — the only weapon visible amongst 
them save a club-stick, and here and there a 
hatchet. 



Nov. 1871.] OUR CRUISE ON THE TANGANIKA. 497 

We were shown into a hut, which the Doctor and I 
shared between us. What followed on that day I have 
but a dim recollection, having been struck down by 
fever — the first since leaving Unyanyembe. I dimly 
recollect trying to make out what age Mukamba might 
be, and noting that he was good-look* "ig wiihal, and 
kindly-disposed towards us. And during the intervals 
of agony and unconsciousness, I saw, or fancied I saw, 
Livingstone's form moving towards me, and felt, or 
fancied I felt, Livingstone's hand tenderly feeling my 
hot head and limbs. I had suffered several fevers 
between Bagamoyo and Unyanyembe, without anything 
or anybody to relieve me of the tedious racking 
headache and pain, or to illumine the dark and gloomy 
prospect which must necessarily surround the bedside 
of the sick and solitary traveller. But though this fever, 
having enjoyed immunity from it for three months, 
was more severe than usual, I did not much regret its 
occurrence, since I became the recipient of the very 
tender and fatherly kindness of the good man whose 
companion I now found myself. 

The next morning, having recovered slightly from 
the fever, when Mukamba came with a present of an 
ox, a sheep, and a goat, I was able to attend to the 
answers which he gave to the questions about the 
Rusizi River and the head of the lake. The ever 
cheerful and enthusiastic Mgwana was tliere also, and 
he was not a whit abashed wlien, through him, the 
chief told us that the Rusizi, joined by tlie Ruanda, or 
Luanda, at a distance of two days' journey by water, or 
one day by land from the head of the lake, flowed IXTO 
the lake. 

Thus our hopes, excited somewhat by the positive 
and repeated assurances that the river flowed out away 

2 K 



498 now I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

towards Karagwah, collapsed as speedily as they were 

raised. 

We paid Mukamba the honga, consisting of nine doti 
and Jiine fundo of* samsani, lunghio, muzurio n'zige. 
Tl)e printed handkerchiefs, which I had in abundance 
at Unyanyembe, would have gone well here. After 
receiving his present; the chief introduced his son, a 
tall youth of eighteen or thereabouts, to the Doctor, as 
a would-be son of the Doctor ; but, with a good- 
natured laugh, the Doctor scouted all su('h relationship 
with him, as it was instituted only for the purpose of 
drawiuiT more cloth out of him. Mukamba took it in 
good part, and did not insist on getting more. 

Our second evening at Mukamba's, Susi, the Doctor's 
servant, got gloriously drunk, througli the chief's liberal 
and profuse gifts of pombe. Just at dawn next morn- 
ing I was awakened by hearing sevei'al sharp, crack- 
like sounds. I listened, and I found the noise was 
in our hut. It was caused by the Doctor, who, towards 
midnight, had felt some one come and lie d-own by his 
side on the same bed, and, thinking that it was me, he 
liad kindly made room, and laid down on the edge of 
the bed. But in the morning, feeling rather cold, he 
had been thoroughly awakened, and, on rising on his 
elbow to see wlio his bed-fellow was, he discovered, to 
his great astonishment, that it was no other than 
his black servant, Susi, who taking possession of his 
blankets, and folding them about himself most 
selfishly, was occupying almost the wliole bed. The 
Doctor, with that gentleness chaiacteristic of him, 
instead of taking a rod, had contented himself with 
slapping Susi on the back, saying, '' Get up, Susi, 
will you ? You are in my bed. How dare you, sir, 
get drunk in this way, after I have told you so often 



Dbo. 1871.] OUR CRUISE ON THE TANGANIKA, 



499 



not to ? Get up. You won't ? l^ake that, and that, 
and that." Still Susi slept and grunted ; so the slapping 
continued, until even Susi's thick hide began to feel it, 
and he was thoroughly awakened to the sense of his 
want of devotion and sympathy for his master in the 
usurping of even his master's bed. Susi looked very 
much crestfallen after this expose of his infirmity before 
the "little master," as I was called. 




8US1, THE SERVANT OF LIVINGSTONE. 



The next day at dusk — Mukamba having come to 
bid us ^ood-bye, and requested that as soon as we 
reached his brother Ruhinga, whose country was at the 
head of the lake, we would send our canoe back for 
him, and that in the meanwhile we should leave two of 
our men with him, with tlieir guns, to help defend him 
in case Warumashanya should attack him as soon as we 
were gone — we embarked and pulled across. In iiino 



600 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, 

hours we had arrived at the head of the lake in 
Mugihewa, the country of Iluhinga, Mukamba's elder 
brother. In looking back to where we had come from 
we perceived that we had made a diagonal cut across 
from south-east to north-west, instead of having made a 
direct east and west course ; or, in other words, from 
Mugere — which was at least ten miles from the north- 
ernmost point of the eastern shore — we had come to 
Mugihewa, situated at the northernmost point of the 
western shore. Had we continued along the eastern 
shore, and so round the northern side of the lake, we 
should have passed by Mukanigi, the country of War u- 
mashanya, and Usumbura of Simveh, his ally and friend. 
But by making a diagonal course, as just described, we 
had arrived at the extreme head of the lake without 
any difticulty. 

The country in which we now found ourselves, Mugi- 
hewa, is situated in the delta of the Rusizi River. It 
is an extremely flat country, the highest part of which 
is not ten feet above the lake, with numerous depres- 
sions in it overgrown with the rankest of matete- 
grass and the tallest of papyrus, and pond-like hollows, 
filled with stagnant water, which emit malaria whole- 
sal^. Large herds of cattle are reared on it ; for where 
the ground is not covered with marshy plants it pro- 
duces rich, sweet grass. The sheep and goats, espe- 
cially the former, are always in good condition ; and 
though they are not to be compared with English or 
American sheep, they are the finest I have seen in 
Africa. Numerous villages are seen on this land, 
because the intervening spaces are not occupied with 
the rank and luxuriant jungle common in other parts 
of Africa. Were it not for the Euphorbia kol quail of 
Abyssinia — which some chief has caused to be planted 



Deo. 1871.1 OUR CIWISE ON THE TANGANIKA. 501 

as a defence round the villages — one might see from 
one end of Mugihewa to the other. The waters along 
the head of the lake, from the western to the eastern 
shores, swarm with crocodiles. From the banks, I 
counted ten heads of crocodiles^ and the Eusizi, we were 
told, was full of them. 

Euhinga, who came to see us soon after we had 
taken up our quarters in his village, was a most amiable 
man, who always contrived to see something that ex- 
cited his risibility ; though older by five or six years 
perhaps — he said he was a hundred years old — than 
Mukamba, he was not half so dignified, nor regarded 
with so much admiration by his people as his younger 
brother. Euhinga had a better knowledge, however, 
of the country than Mukamba, and an admirable 
memory, and was able to impart his knowledge of the 
country intelligently. After he had done the honours 
as chief to us — presented us with an ox and a slieep, 
milk and honey — we were not backward in endeavour- 
ing to elicit as much information as possible out of him. 

The summary of the information derived from Eu- 
hinga may be stated as follows : 

The country bordering the head of the lake from 
Urundi proper, on the eastern shore, to Uvira on 
the western, is divided into the following districts : 
1st. Mugere, governed by Mukamba, through which 
issued into the lake the small rivers of Mugere and 
Mpanda. 2nd. Mukanigi, governed by Warumash- 
anya, which occupied the whole of the north-eastern 
head of the lake, through which issued into t-\e lake 
the small rivers of Karindwa and Mugera wa Kanigi. 
3rd. On the eastern half of the district, at the head of 
the lake, was Usumbura, governed by Simvc^i, ally 
and friend of Warumashanya, extending to the eastern 



602 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

bank of the E-usizi. 4th. Commencing from the 
western bank of the Eusizi, to the extreme north- 
western head of the lake, was Mugihewa — Rnhinga's 
country. 5th. From Uvira on the west, running north 
past Mugihewa, and overlapping it on the north 
side as far as the hills of Chamati, was Ruwenga, 
also a country governed by Mukamba. Beyond 
Ruwenga, from the hills of Chamati to the Ruanda 
River, was the country of Chamati. West of Ruwenga, 
comprising all the mountains for two days' journey in 
that direction, was Uashi. These are the smaller sub- 
divisions of what is commonly known as Ruwenga 
and Usige. Ruwenga comprises the countries of Ru- 
wenga and Mugihewa ; Usige, the countries of Usum- 
bura, Mukanigi, and Mugere. But all these countries 
are only part and parcel of Urundi, which comprises 
all that country bordering the lake from Mshala River, 
on the eastern shore, to Uvira, on the western, extend- 
ing over ten days' journey direct north from the head 
of the lake, and one month in a north-eastern direction 
to Murukuko, the capital of Mwezi, Sultan of all 
Urundi. Direct north of Urundi is Ruanda; also a 
very large country. 

The Rusizi River — according to Ruhinga — rose 
near a lake called Kivo, which he said is as long as 
from Mugihawa to Mugere, and as broad as from 
Mugihawa to Warumashanya's country, or, say 
eighteen miles in length by about eight in breadth. 
The lake is surrounded by mountains on the western 
and northern sides : on the south-western side of one 
of these mountains issues the Rusizi — at first a small 
rapid stream ; but as it proceeds towards the lake it 
receives the rivers Kagunissi, Kaburan, Mohira, Nyam- 
Bgana, Nyakagunda, Ruviro, Rofubu Kavimvira, 



Dec. 1871.] OUR CRUISE ON THE TANGANIKA. 603 

Mjove, Ruhulia, Mukindii, Sange, Rubirizi, KiriLa, 
and, lastly, the Ruanda River, wliicli seems to be the 
largest of tliem all. Kivo Lake is so called from the 
country in which it is situated. On one side is Mu- 
tumbi (probably the Utumbi of Spoke and Baker), on 
the west is Ruanda; on the east is Urundi. The 
name of the chief of Kivo is Kwansibura. 

After so many minute details about the River 
Rusizi, it only remained for us to see it. On the 
second morning of our arrival at Mugihewa we 
mustered ten strong paddlers, and set out to explore the 
head of the lake and the mouth of the Rusizi. We 
found that the northern head of the lake was indented 
with seven broad bays, each from one and a half to three 
miles broad ; that long broad spits of sand, overgrown 
with matete, separated each bay from the other. The 
first, starting from west to east, at the broadest part, to 
the extreme southern point of Mugihewa, was about 
three miles broad, and served as a line of demarcation 
between Mukamba's district of Ruwenga and Mugihewa 
of Ruhinga ; it was also two miles deep. The second 
bay was a m.ile from the southern extremity of Mugi- 
hewa to Ruliinga's village at the head of the bay, and 
•'t was a mile across to another spit of sand which was 
terminated by a small island. The third bay stretched 
for nearly a mile to a long spit, at the end of 
which was another island, one and a quarter mile in 
length, and was the western side of the fourth bay, at 
the head of which was the delta of the Rusizi. This 
fourth bay, at its base, was about three miles in depth, 
and penetrated half a mile further inland than any 
other. Soundings indicated six feet deep, and the 
same depth was kept to within a few hundred yards 
of the principal mouth of the Rusizi. The current 



504 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

was very sluggisli ; not more tlian a mile an hour* 
Though we constantly kept our binocular searching 
for the river, we could not see the main channel until 
within 200 yards of it, and then only by watching by 
what outlet the fishing canoes came out. The bay at 
this point had narrowed from two miles to about 
200 yards in breadth. Inviting a canoe to show us 
the way, a small flotilla of canoes preceded us, from 
the sheer curiosity of their owners. We followed, and 
in a few minutes were ascending the stream, which was 
very rapid, though but about ten yards wide, and very 
shallow ; not more than two feet deep. We ascended 
about half a mile, the current being very strong, from 
six to eight miles an hour, and quite far enough to 
observe the nature of the stream at its embouchure. We 
could see that it widened and spread out in a myriad of 
channels, rushing by isolated clumps of sedge and matete 
grass ; and that it had the appearance of a swamp. We 
had ascended the central^ or main channel. The western 
channel was about eight yards broad. We observed, after 
we had returned to the bay, that the easternmost channel 
was about six yards broad, and about ten feet deep, but 
very sluggish. We had thus examined each of its 
three mouths, and settled all doubts as to the Rusizi 
being an effluent or influent. It was not necessary to 
ascend higher, there being nothing about the river itself 
to repay exploration of it. 

The question, *' Was the Rusizi an effluent or an 
influeni ?" was answered for ever. There was now 
no doubt any more on that point. In size it was 
not to be compared with the Malagarazi River, 
neither is it, or can it be, navigable for anything 
but the smallest canoes. The only thing remarkable 
about it is that it abounds in crocodiles, but not 



Deo. 1871.] OUR CRUISE ON THE TAXGANJKA. 505 

one hippopotamus was seen ; which may be taken 
as another evidence of its shallowness. The bays 
to the east of the Rusizi are of the same conforma- 
tion as those on the west. Carefully judging from 
the width of the several bays from point to point, and 
of the several spits which separate them, the breadth of 
the lake may be said to be about twelve or fourteen 
miles. Had we contented ourselves with simply looking 
at the conformation, and the meeting of the eastern and 
western ranges, we should have said that the lake 
ended in a point, as Captain Speke has sketched it on 
his map. But its exploration dissolved that idea. 
Chamati Hill is the extreme northern termination of 
the western range, and seems, upon a superficial ex- 
amination, to abut against the Ramata mountains of 
the eastern range, which are opposite Chamati ; but a 
valley about a mile in breadth separates the two ranges, 
and through this valley the Rusizi flows towards the 
lake. Though Chamati terminates the western range, 
the eastern range continues for miles beyond, north- 
westerly. After its issue from this broad gorge, the 
Rusizi runs seemingly in a broad and mighty stream, 
through a wide alluvial plain, its own formation, in a 
hundred channels, until, approaching the lake, it flows 
into it by three channels only, as above described. 

I should not omit to state here, that though the 
Doctor and I have had to contend against the strong 
current of the Rusizi River, as it flowed swift and 
strong INTO the Tanganika, the Doctor still adheres to 
the conviction that, whatever part the Rusizi plays, 
there must be an outlet to the Tanganika somewhere, 
from the fact that all fresh-water lakes have outlets. 
The Doctor is able to state his opinions and reasons fai 
better than T can for him ; and, lest I misconstrue the 



606 EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

subject, I sliall leave it until he lias an opportunity tc 
explain them himself; which his great knowledge of 
Africa will enable him to do with advantage. 

One thing is evident to ine, and I believe to the 
Doctor, that Sir Samuel Baker will have to curtail the 
Albert N'Yanza by one, if not two degrees of latitude. 
That well-known traveller has drawn his lake far 
into the territory of the Warundi^ while Ruanda has 
been placed on the eastern side ; whereas a large portion 
of it, if not all, should be placed north of what he has 
designated on his map as Usige. The information of 
such an intelligent man as Ruhinga is not to be 
despised ; for, if Lake Albert came within a hundred 
miles of the Tanganika, he would surely have heard of 
its existence, even if he had not seen it himself. Originally 
he came from Mutumbi, and he has travelled from that 
country into Mugihewa, the district he now governs. 
He has seen Mwezi, the great King of Urundi, and 
describes him as a man about forty years old, and as a 
very good man. 

Our work was now done ; there was nothing more to 
detain us at Mugihewa. Ruhinga had been exceedingly 
kind, and given us one ox after another to butcher 
and eat. Mukamba had done the same. Their women 
had supplied us with an abundance of milk and butter, 
and we had now bounteous supplies of both. 

The Doctor had taken a series of observations for 
latitude and longitude ; and Mugihewa was made out 
to be in 3° 19' S. latitude. 

On the 7th December, early in the morning, we left 
Mugihewa, and rowing past the southern extremity 
of the Katangara Islands, we approached the highlands 
of Uashi, near the boundary line between Mukamba's 
country and Uvira. The boundary line is supposed 



Dec. 1871.] OUR CRUISE ON THE TANG AN IK A. 507 

to be a wide ravine, in the depths of wln'ch is a 
grove of tall, beautiful, and straight-stemmed trees, 
out of which the natives make their canoes. 

Passing Kanyamabengu Eiver, which issues into the 
lake close to the market-ground of Kirabula, the ex- 
treme point of Burton and Speke's explorations of the 
Tanganika, we steered south along the western shore of 
the lake for half an hour longer to Kavimba, where we 
halted to cook breakfast. 

The village where lived Mruta, the King of Uvira, 
was in sight of our encampment, and as we observed 
parties of men ascending and descending tl^e mountains 
much more often than we thought augured good to our- 
selves, we determined to continue on our course south. 
Besides, there was a party of disconsolate-looking 
Wajiji here, who had been plundered only a few da^^s 
before our arrival, for attempting, as the Wavira 
believed, to evade the honga payment. Such facts as 
these, and our knowledge of the general state of in- 
security in the country, resulting from the many wars 
in which the districts of the Tanganika were engaged, 
determined us not to halt at Kavimba. 

We embarked quickly in our boat before the Wavira 
had collected themselves, and headed south against a 
strong gale, which came driving down on us from the 
south-west. After a hard pull of about two hours 
in the teeth of the storm, which was rapidly rising, 
we pointed the head of the boat into a little quiet cove, 
almost hidden in tall reeds, and disembarked for the 
night. 

Cognizant of the dangers which surrounded us, 
knowing that savage and implacable man was the 
worst enemy we had to fear, we employed our utmost 
energies in the construction of a stout fence of thorn 



508 HOW 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE, 

biislies, and then sat down to supper after our work waii 
done, and turned in to sleep ; but not before we had 
posted watchmen to guard our canoe, lest tlie daring 
thieves of Uvira might abstract it, in which case we 
should have been in a pretty plight, and in most un- 
enviable distress. 

At daybreak, leaving Kukumba Point after our 
humble breakfast of coffee, cheese, and dourra cakes was 
despatched, we steered south once more. Our fires had 
attracted the notice of the sharp-eyed and suspicious 
fishermen of Kukumba ; but our precautions and the 
vigilant watch we liad set before retiring, had proved 
an effectual safeguard against the Kivira thieves. 

The western shores of the lake as we proceeded 
were loftier, and more bold than the wooded heights of 
Urundi and bearded knolls of Ujiji. A back ridge — 
the vanguard of the mountains which rise beyond — - 
disclosed itself between the serrated tops of the front 
line of mountains, which rose to a height of from 2,500 
to 3,000 feet above the lake. Within the folds of the 
front line of mountains rise isolated hills of considerable 
magnitude, precipitous and abrupt, but scenically very 
picturesque. The greater part of these hills have the 
rounded and smooth top, or are tabularly summited. 
The ridge enfolding these hills shoots out, at intervals, 
promontorial * projections of gradual sloping outlines, 
which on the map I have designated capes, or points. 
When rounding these points, up went our compasses for 
the taking of bearings, and observing the directions of all 
prominent objects of interest. Often these capes are 
formed by the alluvial plains, through which we may 
be sure a river will be found flowing. These pretty 
alluvial plains, enfolded on the south, the west, and the 
north by a grand mountain arc, present most luxurious 



Dec. 1871.] OUR CRUISE ON THE TANUANIKA. 509 

and enchanting scenery. The vegetation seems to be 
of spontaneous growth. Groups of the Elseis Guinensis 
pahn embowering some dun-brown village ; an array 
of majestic, superb growth of mvule trees; a broad 
extent covered with vivid green sorghum stalks; 
parachute-like tops of mimosa ; a line of white sand, 
on which native canoes are drawn far above the 
reach of the plangent, uneasy surf; fishermen idly 
reclining in the shade of a tree ; — these are the scenes 
which reveal themselves to us as we voyage in our canoe 
on the Tanganika. When wearied with the romance 
of wild tropic scenes such as these, we have but to lift 
our eyes to the great mountain tops looming darkly 
and grandly on our right ; to watch the light pencilling 
of the cirrus, brushing their summits, as it is drifted 
towards the north by the rising wind *. to watch 
the changing forms which the clouds assume, from 
the fleecy horizontal bars of the cirrus, to the denser, 
gloomier cumulus^ prognosticator of storm and rain, 
whicli soon settles into a portentous group — Alps above 
Alps, one above another — and we know the storm 
which was brewing is at hand, and that it is time to 
seek shelter. 

Passing Muikamba, we saw several groves of the 
tall mvule tree. As far as Bemba the Wabembe 
occupy the mountain summits, while the Wavira culti- 
vate the alluvial plains along the base and lower slopes 
of the mountain. At Bemba we halted to take in 
pieces of pipe-clay, in accordance with the superstition 
of the Wajiji, who thought us certain of safe passage 
and good fortune if we complied with the ancient 
custom. 

Passing Ngovi, we came to a deep bend, which 
curved off to Cape Kabogi at the distance of ten miles. 



510 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

About two-thirds of the way we arrived at a group of 
islets, three in number, all very steep and rocky ; the 
largest about 800 feet in length at the base, and about 
200 feet in breadth. Here we made preparations 
to halt for the night. The inhabitants of the island 
were a gorgeously-feathered old cock, which was kept 
as a propitiatory offering to the spirit of the island, a 
sickly, yellow-looking thrush, a hammer-headed stork, 
and two fish-hawks, who, finding we had taken posses- 
sion of what had been rehgiously reserved for them, 
took flight to the most western island, where from 
their perches they continued to eye us most solemnly. 

As these islands were with difficulty pronounced by 
us as Kavunvweh, the Doctor, seeing that they were 
the only ol:)jects we were likely to discover, named 
them the " New York Herald Islets ;" and, in confirma- 
tion of the new designation given them, shook hands 
with me upon it. Careful dead-reckoning settled them 
to be in lat. 3"^ 41' S. 

The summit of the largest island was well adapted 
to take bearings, and we improved the opportunity, as 
most extensive views of the broad and lengthy lake 
and surrounding lines of imposing mountains were 
attainable. The Ramata Hills w^ere clearly visible, and 
bore N.N.E. from it ; Katanga Cape, S.E. by S. ; 
Sentakeyi, E.S.E. ; Magala, E. by N. ; south-western 
point of Muzimu bore S., northern point of Muzimu 
island, S.S.E. 

At dawn on the 9th December w^e prepared to 
resume our voyage. Once or twice in the night we had 
been visited by fishermen, but our anxious watchful- 
ness prevented any marauding. It seemed to me, how- 
ever, tliat the people of the Oj^posite shore, who were 
our visitors, were eagerly watching an opportunity to 



Dmo.1871.] OUR CRUISE ON THE TANG ANTE A. 511 

pounce upon our canoe, or take us bodily for a prey ; and 
our men were considerably affected by these thoughts, 
if we may judge from the hearty good-will with which 
they rowed away from our late encampment. 

Arriving at Cape Kabogi, we came to the territory 
of the Wasansi. We knew we were abreast of a dif 
ferent tribe by the greeting " Moholo," which a group 
of fishermen gave us ; as that of the Wavira was 
" Wake,'' like that of Urundi, Usige, and Uhha. 

We soon sighted Cape Luvumba — a sloping projec- 
tion of a mountain ridge which shot far into the lake. 
As a storm was brewing, we steered for a snug Httle 
cove that ajDpeared before a village ; and, drawing our 
canoe from the water, began to set the tent, and make 
other preparations for passing the night. 

As the natives appeared quiet and civil enough, we 
saw no reason to suspect that they entertained any 
hostility to Arabs and Wangwana. Accordingly we 
had our breakfast cooked, and as usual laid down for 
an afternoon nap. I soon fell asleep, and was dreaming 
away in my tent, in happy oblivion of the strife and 
contention that had risen since I had gone to sleep, 
when I heard a voice hailing me with, " Master, 
master ! get up, quick. Here is a fight going to 
begin!" I sprang up, and snatching my revolver belt 
fi'om the gun-stand, walked outside. Surely, there 
appeared to be considerable animus between the several 
factions ; between a noisy, vindictive-looking set of 
natives of the one part, and our people of tbe other 
part. Seven or eight of our people had taken refuge 
behind the canoe, and had their loaded guns half 
pointing at the passionate mob, which was momentarily 
increasing in numbers, but I could not see the Doctor 
anywhere. 



612 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, 

" Wliere is the Doctor ?" I asked. 

" He has gone over that hill, sir, with his compass,*' 
said Selira. 

" Anybody with him ?" 

" Susi and Chumah." 

" You, Bombay, send two men oflf to warn the Doctor, 
and tell him to hurry up here." 

But just at this period the Doctor and his two men 
appeared on the brow of the hill, looking down in a 
most complacent manner upon the serio-comic scene 
that the little basin wherein we were encamped pre- 
sented. For, indeed, despite the serious aspect of it, 
there was much that was comical blended with it — in 
a naked young man who — perfectly drunk, barely able 
to stand on his feet — was beating the ground with his 
only loin-cloth_, screaming and storming away like a 
madman ; declaring by this, and by that, in his own 
choice language, that no Mgwana or Arab should halt 
one moment on the sacred soil of Usansi. His father, 
the Sultan, was as inebriated as himself, though not 
quite so violent in his behaviour. 

In the meantime the Doctor arrived upon the scene, 
and Selim had slipped my Winchester rifle, with the 
magazine full of cartridges, into my hand. The Doctor 
calmly asked what was the matter, and was answered 
by the Wajiji guides that the people wished us to leave, 
as they were on hostile terms with the Arabs, because 
the eldest son of the Sultan of Muzimu, the large island 
nearly opposite, had been beaten to deatli by a Baluch, 
nauicd Khamis, at Ujiji, because the young fellow had 
dared look into his harem, and ever since peace had 
been broken between the Wasansi and Arabs. 

After consulting with the guides, the Doctor and I 
came to the conclusion that it were better that we 



Deo. 1871.] OVB CRUISE ON THE TANGANIKA. 5X3 

should endeavour to pacify the Sultan by a present, 
rather than take offence at a drunken boy's extravagant 
freak. In his insane fury he had attempted to slash at 
one of my men with a billhook he carried. This had 
been taken as a declaration of hostilities, and the soldiers 
were ready enough to engage in war ; but there was no 
necessity to commence fighting with a drunken mob, 
who could have been cleared off the ground with our 
revolvers alone had we desired it. 

The Doctor, baring his arm, said to them that he was 
not a Mgwana, or an Arab, but a white man ; that 
Arabs and Wangwana had no such color as we had. 
We were wliite men, different people altogether from 
those whom they were accustomed to see ; that no 
black men had ever suffered injury from white men. 
This seemed to produce great effect, for after a little 
gentle persuasion the drunken youth, and his no less 
inebriate sire, were induced to sit down to talk quietly. 
In their conversation with us, they frequently referred 
to Monibo, the son of Kisesa, Sultan of Mnzimu, who 
was brutally murdered. '' Yes, brutally murdered !" 
they exclaimed several times, in their own tongue ; 
illustrating, by a faithful pantomime, how the unfor- 
tunate youth had died. 

Livingstone continued talking with them in a mild, 
paternal way, and their loud protestations against Arab 
cruelty were about to subside, when the old Sultan 
suddenly rose up and began to pace about in an excited 
manner, and in one of his perambulations deliberately 
slashed his leg with the sharp blade of his spear, and 
then exclaimed that the Wangwana had wounded him ! 

At this cry one half of the mob hastily took to flight, 
but one old woman, who carried a strong staff w^ith a 
carved lizard's body on its top, commenced to abuse the 

2 L 



514 now I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

chief with all the power of her voluble tongue, charging 
liira w4th a desire to have them all killed, and other 
women joined in with her in advising him to be quiet, 
and accept the present we were willing to give. 

But it was evident that there was little needed 
to cause all men present in that little hollow to begin a 
most sanguinary strife. The gentle, patient bearing of 
the Doctor had more eifect than anything else in 
making all forbear bloodshed, while there was left the 
least chance of an amicable settlement, and in the end 
it prevailed. The Sultan and his son were both sent 
on their way rejoicing. 

While the Doctor conversed with them, and en- 
deavoured to calm their fierce passions, I had the tent 
struck, and the canoes launched, and the baggage stowed, 
and when the negotiations had concluded amicablj^, I 
begged the Doctor to jump into the boat, as this 
apparent peace was simply a lull before a storm ; 
besides, said I, there are two or three cowardly creatures 
in the boat, who, in case of another disturbance, would 
not scruple to leave both of us here. 

From Cape Luvumba, about 4*30 p.m., we commenced 
pulling across ; at 8 P.M. we were abreast of Cape 
Panza, the northern extremity of the island of Muzimu ; 
at 6 A.M. we were southward of Bikari, and pulling for 
Mukungu,inUrundi,at which place we arrived at 10 a.m., 
having been seventeen hours and a half in crossing the 
lake, which, computing at two miles an hour, may be 
said to be thirty-five miles direct breadth, and a little 
more than forty-three miles from Cape Luvumba. 

On the 11th of December, after seven hours' pulling. 
we arrived at picturesque Zassi again ; on the 1 2th, at 
the pretty cove of Niasanga; and at 11 a.m. we had 
rounded past Bangwe, and Ujiji was before us. 



Deo. 1871.] OUR CBUISE ON THE TANG AN IK A, 6U 

We entered the port very quietly, without the usual 
fTring" of guns, as we were short of powder and ball, 
As we landed, our soldiers and the Arab magnates came 
to the water's edge to greet us. 

Mabruki had a rich budget to relate to us, of what 
had occurred during our absence. This faithful man, 
left behind in charge of Livingstone's house, had done 
most excellently. Kalulu had scalded himself, and 
had a frightful raw sore on his chest in consequence. 
Mabruki had locked up Marora in chains for wounding 
one of the asses. Bilali, the stuttering coward, a bully 
of women, had caused a tumult in the market-place, 
and had been sharply belaboured with the stick by 
Mabruki. And, above all most welcome, was a letter I 
received from the American Consul at Zanzibar, dated 
June 11th, containing telegrams from Paris as late as 
April 22nd of the same year ! Poor Livingstone 
exclaimed, " And I have none. What a pleasant thing 
it is to have a real and good friend !" 

Our voyage on the Tanganika had lasted twenty- 
eight days, during which time we had traversed ovei 
300 miles of water. 




UJIJI cow, UNYAMWEZI COW, PARIAH DOG, AND FAT-TAILED SHEEP. 



CHAPTER XIV, 



GEOGRAPHICAL AND ETHNOGRAPHICAL REMARKS. 

(Second Series.^ 

Let us now relate, in a chapter specially devoted to 
them, what new geographical and ethnographical facts 
we have discovered since we left Uyanzi, or Magunda 
Mkali, concerning tlie countries of Unyamwezi, Uko- 
nongo, Ukawendi, Uvinza, Uhha, Ukaranga, Ujiji, 
Urundi, Usowa, Ukaramba, Ugoma, Uguhha, Riia, 
and Manyuema. 

The first country for our consideration is U-nya- 
mwezi, which might be pronounced, according to the 
natives, Oo-nya-mwezi. I beg to differ from all 
preceding writers as to the exact meaning of the word, 
Messrs. Krapf and Rebman, to whom the world is in- 
debted for first rousing its curiosity respecting the 
interior of East Africa, translate the word U-nya-mwezi 



OEOQRAPIIICAL AND ETHNOGIiAPUJCAL REMARKS. 51V, 

into '' Country of the Moon " — U being always a prefix 
for " country," nya meaning " of/' and mwezi, " moon.'' 
The erudite Capt. Burton seems incHned to the same, 
opinion ; while Speke unhesitatingly adopts the same 
interpretation. With all due deference to the moi'e 
mature knowledge of Africa which these gentlemen 
possess over me, I would suggest to those interested ii? 
the discussion of nice topics, such as these, that a Kisa-r 
wahili definition has been given to a Kinyamwezi word. 
In the Kisawaliili language, if it were a country of the 
moon, it would be called Umwezi. Unyamwezi is a 
Kinyamwezi word, and cannot be interpreted, from the 
accidental similarity of the last two syllables, with the 
well-known Kisawahili word mwezi, which means 
moon. If we take the Kisawahili standard f)r in- 
terpreting the word U-nya-mwezi, we miglit just as 
well accept the other meaning of the last two syllables 
mwezi, which mean thief, as well as moon, in the 
Kisawahili language. 

Capt. Burton says that Mr. Desborough Coofey 
prefers "lord of the world" for tlie meaning of the 
word Unyamwezi, which lie spells " Monomoe2>:." 1 
prefer Mr. Cooley's interpretation to Capt. Burton's, 
yet I beg to differ with Mr. Cooley also in the precise 
translation. So far as I could ascertain from the 
Wanyamwezi, and Arabs leai'ned in the lore of the 
country, there once lived a king of Ukalaganza — which 
is the original name of the country, and by whicli name 
alone the western tribes know it — whose name was 
Mwezi, who ruled over all the land from Uyanzi to 
Uvinza. He was the greatest king then knowai ; none 
could stand before him in the battle, none ever reigned 
so wisely as he. But, after this great king's death, hig 
sons fought among themselves for the possession of the 



518 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, 

supreme power ; and in the several wars which followed^ 
in the course of time, the districts which the sons liad 
gained became known only by their distinctive names, 
as distinguished from the central and greater portion of 
the country, which still retained its old designation of 
Ukalaganza. But the people who occupied Ukalaganza, 
and who recognized the heir appointed by old Mwezi, 
the king, came to be known by-and-by as children of 
Mwezi, and tbe country as Unyamwezi ; and the other 
districts as Konongo, Sagozi, Gunda, Siuibiri, &c. 
To support this theory, based upon the tradition related 
to me by the old chief of Masangi, which lies on the 
road to Mfuto, I will state that the name of the present 
king of Urundi is Mwezi ; and it is notorious that the 
name of almost every village in Africa is simply 
derived from some ruler, either living or dead. In- 
staiices :— The village of Misonghi is known from 
Kwihaia to Bagamoyo as Kadetamare, the name of 
the cliief ; Capt. Burton can confirm this fact himself, 
having placed it on his map as Kadetamare. The 
district of Nyambwa, in Ugogo, is fast losing its old 
title, and is more extensively known as Pembera 
Pereli, which is the name of the decrepit old Sultan of 
Nyambwa. Mrera, in Ukonongo, is the name of the 
chief, wdiile the ancient designation of the district was 
Kasera. " Mbogo," or '' Buffalo," has also given his 
name to a large and populous district in Ukonongo ; 
then there is Pumburu, the name of a neighbouring 
chief to Mapunda, of Usowa. Uganda is fast giving 
way to the famous name of King Mtesa; and, in a few 
years, a decade perhaps, future travellers will liear 
from the Arabs of the great country called Unyamtesa, 
or Umtesa. No ; I decidedly object to having Unya- 
mwezi interpreted into the poetic " Land of the Moon/ 



GEOGRAPHICAL AND ETIiNOQRAFHlCAL It EM ARKS. oU 

or the ill-meaning " Land of the Thief." Unyannvezi 
simply means the Land of Mwezi. 

Also do I differ most positively with Capt. Burton, 
if he supposes that " Nimeamaye," the country said to 
be sixty days from the Atlantic Ocean by the Dutch 
historian Dapper, can be Unyamwezi. A man travelling 
on horseback could not accomplish the distance from 
the Atlantic Ocean to Unyamwezi, even in 1671 — two 
hundred years ago — when the country extended to 
within ten days of the Tanganika Lake, in sixty days ; 
but a native unencumbered with a load might possibly 
reach Manyuema in that time ; and " Nimeamaye " is 
probably a corruption, caused by misapprehending the 
correct sound of Manyuema, or " Manyuemaye." 

At the present day Unyamwezi extends from east to 
west a rectilineal distance of about 145 miles ; that 
is, from the River Ngwhalah, between Mgongo Tembo 
and Madedita, in E. long. 34°, to Useuye, E. long. 
31° 25', which is considered the western exti'emity of 
Ukalaganza, or Unyamwezi ; and from north to south, 
from the southern extiemity of the Victoria N'Yanza, 
in S. lat. 3° 51', to Gombe River, S. lat. 5° 40', a 
distance of 149 geographical miles, comprising a square 
area of more than 24,500 miles. 

This large area is divided into several districts, such 
as Unyanyembe, Usagari, Ugunda, Ugara, Nguru, 
Msalala, Usongo, Khokoro, L^simbiri, Nasangaro, 
Ugoro, &c. ; of which Unynnyembe is the most 
important in Unyamwezi, both from its central position 
and populousness. The people north of Unyanyembe 
are known as the Wasukuma, and those to the south as 
Watakama. The latter term is seldom used in Unyan- 
yembe, though often by the Wasukuma. 

Taken altogether, Unyamwezi may be said to be the 



620 HOW I FO UND LI VJNG STONE. 

finest country in the whole of East and Central Africa 
It is one grand rolling table-land, with a gentle westeri: 
trend towards the Tanganika, which drains the greater 
part of it. If one were to take a bird's-eye view of ii 
he would see forests, a purple-colored carpet of leafage, 
broken here and there by naked plains and clearings, 
stretching to all points of the horizon, with now and 
then dark heaving masses of rocky hill, rising like 
blunted cones above the gentle undulations, which 
rise and subside over and beyond the horizon, like 
the heavy, exhausted waves of an ocean after a storm. 
Stand upon any coign of vantage you like, on the 
height of some of those great Titanic boulders of 
syenite which crop up above the crest of the hills around 
Mgongo Tembo, or the rocky humps of Ngaraiso, and 
you will behold a scene the like of which you never 
saw before. They are no grand mountains, or sublime 
heights; there is no picturesqueness about it — you 
would call it prosaic, monotonous, perhaps, for you will 
have witnessed the same scene a hundred times before 
you will have arrived in Uyanzi ; bat in tins excessive 
monotony theie is sublimity. The ocean, churned into 
foam and wild waves, is sublime; the ocean, slumbering 
under the equatoiial sun, reflecting the deep blue of the 
firmament — extending without a ruflle you know not how 
far — is sublime ; and so is there sublimity in this view 
of the great, the infinite, apparently endless extent of 
forests in Unyamwezi. The foliage is of all the colors 
of the prism; but as the woods roll away into the 
distance the calm, mysterious haze enwrajjs them in 
its soft shroud ; paints them first a light blue, then 
gradually a deeper blue, until, in the distance, there 
appears but a dim looming ; and on gazing at its faded 
contour we find ourselves falling into a day-dream, as 



{jtEOQRAPEIGAL AND ETHNOQRAPHIGAL REMARKS. 521 

indistinct in its outline as the view which appears on 
the horizon. I defy any one to gaze on such a scene 
long without wishing that his life would fade away as 
serenely as the outUnes of the forests in Unyamwezi. 

We found a species of pisolitic limestone in the 
maritime region ; schist and syenite in alternate lines 
in Ugogo ; but in Unyamwezi the enormous smooth 
sheets which have appeared with bare humps in Uyanzi 
loom up into solid bills— great disintegrated fragments 
and craggy ridges, softened, of course, by the wealth of 
vegetation, which hides the rough and uneven lines 
from human view. 

There are only two rivers worthy of the name in 
Unyamwezi, and those are the Northern and the 
Southern Gombe. The northern river, under the name 
of Kwala, sometimes called Wallah, rises south of 
Rubuga, and after sweeping with a north-westerly curve, 
enters the Gombe north of Tabora — even here a stream 
of some magnitude and importance. With good light 
boats in the latter part of the rainy season, a man 
might easily — eight miles or so from Tabora — embark 
his people, and float down happily enough to the 
Tanganika Lake ; provided, of course, that all the 
tribes were willing A properly-equipped expedition 
miglit work wonders in this way. 

The Nghwhalah River — known to rise north of 
Kusuri, intersecting the Unyanyembe path frequently, 
as one may see as he proceeds towards Tui'a — a few 
miles east of Madedita takes its steady course south- 
west, and passing through Nguru, comes into view 
again in Manyara, and is then known as the Southern 
Gombe, but which has a current oidy during the very 
height of the rainy season. From Manyara it runs 
across Ugala country in a north-by- west direction : and 



522 EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

before its junction with the Malagarazi it receives the 
streams of Mrera and Mtambu, which, after skirting 
the eastern base of the Rusawa Mountains, gHde north- 
easterly across the park lands of Uvenda to the 
Gombe. 

All other streams, wliich are few in Unyamwezi, and 
of no importance, discharge their waters into either the 
Northern or Southern Gombe. The water is gene- 
rally supplied by large pools, or in deep, length}^ 
hollows, which, in India, would be called nullahs, but, 
with Americans, gidlies. Where nullahs and pools 
fail, pits are dug, by which a pale, milky kind of water 
is obtained. This color of the water, to a native of 
Unyamwezi, is considered by him to be a sure sign of 
its goodness ; and he is apt to evince his admiration 
of its qualities, if he is asked whether tlie water is 
good, by the fervent expression, " niiope sana " — 
' Oh, it is quite white ;" by which, of course, you must 
understand that it is very good, if very white. 

The productions of the forests of Unyamv/ezi, as well 
as those of Ukonongo and Uvinza, are similar to those 
of Uyanzi ; and, indeed, such as are common to all 
the tree-clad uplands under or near the equator. 

The most gigantic tree found between Uyanzi and tlie 
Tanganika is the mtamba — sycamore, which is equal in 
sJze to the mighty baobabs of Ugogo. It pi-oduces a 
kind of pleasant fig, wliich, when ripe, is eaten readily 
by the natives. But these sycamores are few and far 
between. Other trees frequent in the forests are known 
b}^ the Kisawahili terms — mtundu, miombo, mkora, 
mkurongo, mbembu, mvule, mtogwe, msundurusi, 
inniuga, mbugu, matonga. 

The natives have ingeniously found uses for all of 
them. The imbite forms rafters, as beautiful as cedar 



GEOGRAPHIQAL AND ETHNOGRAPHICAL REMARKS. 523 

capable of being carved ornamentally. It also forms 
doors and carved pillars, which range along the 
veranda. It emits quite an agreeable perfume, and 
its dark-reddish mahogany-like lines of red and pale 
yellow are very pretty and rich-looking. 

The mkora is a fine large tree, growing into stately 
proportions in the forests of Ugunda and some parts 
of Ukonongo, out of which the natives carve most 
laboriously the kiti, or stool, in such frequent use with 
the elders and chiefs throughout Africa ; as well as 
their huge mortars, in which the dourra, or sorghum, 
grain, and Indian corn is pounded into flour. 

The mkurongo is the ti-ee out of which the pole 
which the natives use as a pestle throughout Central 
Africa for the pounding of the grain is made. It is 
harder and more durable than hickory, and, when 
polished, has a whitish glistening appearance. 

The mbugu supplies the soft useful bark which is 
used by the natives to make cloth. The bark, after 
being well soaked, is pounded, and, after some drying 
and rubbing, presents the appearance of a thick loose 
felt. Rope is also sometimes made of it, but more fre- 
quently it is employed in the manufacture of kirindos, 
or round boxes, like primitive band-boxes, which are 
painted and ornamented with a composition of various 
clays. These kirindos are sometimes very gigantic, 
and are used to store grain, supported above the ground, 
out of the reach of white ants, by a strong structure 
of logs. The bark of the mbugu forms admirable sheds, 
and is often used to form a kitanda, or a rude bed- 
stead, by the fathers of femilies and luxuriously-inclined 
youths. It is out of the bark of this tree that the 
Warori dwelling on the Rufiji construct their bark 
canoes. 



524 BOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

The mvule tree is that out of which the lake tribes 
form their canoes. The largest canoes on the Tanga- 
nika are considerably over sixty feet long. The tree 
attains its greatest size in the ravines of Ugoma, 
opposite Ujiji, on the western shore. Uvira, Urundi, 
and Usowa also possess very many fine specimens of 
it. It is a great work of labor, the cutting down of 
these trees, and the excavating of the enormous logs into 
canoes. It requires over three months' labor before tlie 
canoe may be said to be ready for launching. During i\\Q 
excavation of the huge log the owner m:ikus a series of 
fires, out of the chips, along the upper side of it, and his 
neighbors are called to assist him in the work for a tiifle 
of grain or palm oil. When the canoe is i-eady for 
launching, he brews several pots of pombe, and invites 
all his neighbors to pusli it into the sea ; and, after 
a spurt, they regale themselves with the native beer 
frequently, and again set about their work with renewed 
strength and vociferous shouting. A large canoe may 
be bought with one Imndred and twenty doti.of cloth, 
or, say, a 75-lb. bale ; but the Arabs, or the Wajiji, when 
they proceed to purchase a canoe, generally take with 
them an assortment of goods, such as a dozen pots of 
palm oil, a dozen goats, a number of various cloths 
several hoes, and a number of bags of salt and grain, by 
which the purchase is made with profit. 

The other trees which the Central African forests 
produce are the kolquall, or candelabra tree ; the msun- 
durusi, or copal-tree, frequent in Ukawendi ; the moumbo, 
or palmyra ; the miombo ; the beautiful and fragrant 
mimosa ; the mtundu ; and on the shores of Lake Tanga- 
nika is seen the beautiful Guinea palm tree, called 
mchikidii, and the plantain tree. 

The palm oil is extracted from the fruit of the palm 



ijrEOGRAPEICAL AND ETRNOGBAPUICAL B EM AUKS. 526 

(1 e, which hangs pendent, somewhat hke the date. 
This is pounded and boiled, and, when allowed to cool, 
the oil is collected into great earthen pots, which will 
contain from two to five gallons. Four yards of cloth, 
or a doti, will purchase one of the largest pots full of 
palm oil, which in appearance is like soft, yellow, 
ochre-coloured butter. The Wajiji and others use the 
oil for cooking frequently. 

Out of the same tree, the Guinea palm, is extracted 
an intoxicating liquor, called tembo, which is a far 
more agreeable drink than the pombe, or beer. 

Plantains are abundant also in all the villages 
bordering the lake. The toddy called " zogga " is 
made by pounding the plantains in the huge wooden 
mortar wherein the various grains are also converted 
into flour. 

The cactaceous and aloetic plants are visible all over 
the country, but in the arid plains of Ugogo and 
Southern Uvinza more especially. 

The tamarind trees are frequent throughout the 
forests^ but they attain their greatest growth in Usa- 
gara, and west of Unyanyembe. Tlieir fruit forms a 
gratefid acidified beverage when steeped in water. 

The tamarisks and the several species of acacia 
deserve notice, if one had only space. The latter grow 
everywhere, and are a sore trouble to a caravan, on 
account of their wide-spreading branches. The thorn 
trees and gums are among the most obnoxious to 
travellers. The former species bristle with all kinds of 
hurtful thorns. One of the " wait-a-bit " kind caught 
Selim, my interpreter, by the neck one day when riding 
while sick with dysentery, and tore an ugly wound in 
the neck in alarming proximity to the jugular ^ ein, the 
mark of which he will carry to his dying day. 



526 HOW J FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

Among the fruit-bearing kind of trees are the 
mbembii, or wood peach ; the rnatonga, or nux vomica ; 
the tamarind ; the sing- we, or wood pkim ; the mtogwe, 
or wood apple ; and in Ukawendi there are numerous 
varieties of grapes. But there are scores of species, 
some of which are dangerous, and others innocuous, 
which are indigenous to the soil, whose names or pro- 
perties I could not obtain. 

Among the fruit-trees planted and carefully nourished 
by the Arabs of Unyanyembe in their gardens are the 
papaw, guava, lime, citron^ pomegranate, mango, ba- 
nana, orange. 

The principal food of the several tribes dwelling in 
Unyamwezi and the countries west as far as Lake 
Tanganika consists of matama (Kisawahili), or dourra 
(Arabic), or jowar (Hindostanee), the Linnsean title of 
which is the Holcus sorghum ; bajri (Holcus spicatus) ; 
millet {Panicum italicum) ; maweri, or sesame ; maize, or 
Indian corn. The pulse kinds are numerous, but the 
vetch, the field and large garden beans are most common. 
Rice is plentiful in Unyanyembe and Ujiji ; wheat is 
grown by the Arabs only. 

Sweet potatoes, yams, and manioc are abundant in 
Unyanyembe and Ujiji, and in some pa,rts of Ukawendi. 
Sugar-cane flourishes at Ujiji. 

There is only one harvest, which takes place in April 
on the Tanganika, in May in Unyamwezi, and in June 
in the maritime region. 

Cotton, tobacco, and the castor-oil plant are grown 
everywhere throughout the central regions. Gourds 
and cucumbers are also numerous and plentiful. Indigo 
grows wild. 

Among the shrubs, plants, and grasses indigenous to 
Central Africa may be mentioned the wild thyme and 



OEOORAPHIGAL AND ETHNOGRAPHICAL REMARKS. 527 

sage, the holly and sunflower, bird-pepper, chilies, 
ginger, turmeric, the oleander, gloriosa superba (near 
the Tanganika) ; the poppy-flower (grows wild in the 
neighborhood of villages in Ukawendi), as also wild 
mustard and curry. But in the great forests bordering 
the lake may be seen a hundred varieties of flowering 
shrubs, exhaling an exquisitely sweet fragrance. Among 
the grasses are the hawk-weed, ox-eye, the grass known 
as bhota in India, and whitlow, besides scores of rank 
species, such as the tiger and spear grass. 

The lotus, water, and leafless lilies may be seen 
in the still Gombe lakes, and in the pools of Uka- 
wendi. 

Papyrus and the matete cane margin all the un- 
inhabited spots on the alluvial plains on the shores of 
the Tanganika. The eschinomenae, or the pith tree, 
may be seen nt the mouths of all the large rivers issu- 
ing into this lake. 

As the limits to which I am necessarily restricted in 
a chapter such as this prevent my entering into a 
detailed zoological account of the species of animals 
and birds of Central Africa, my readers will perhaps 
pardon me if I am brief. 

I shall commence with the quadrumanous order, as 
the most highly organized of the brute species. 

The largest of this kind is what is known as the 
Wanderoo baboon. It is distinguished for its great 
size and leonine aspect. From a distance it resembles 
a small b*on, and its hoarse hollow roar in the dense forests 
of Ukawendi serves not a little to heighten the illusion. 
A long greyish mane surrounds the head and covers 
the neck. The hair on its back is of a dark grey, mixed 
with light brown. The tail is long, and ends in a tuft 
It dwells ill the hollows of large trees and in caves. 



528 HOW I FOUND LJVJNGSTONE. 

Tliis was the kind we saw i^oar the sources of the 
Riigufu, but on some of tb.e feeders of the same rivei 
further west we saw large numbers of this baboon, ol 
a true tawny color. 

After this comes the immense dog-faced baboon, a 
description of which I have given in the preceding 
chapter. There are other and smaller species found in 
Ukawendi and Western Ukonongo, with black faces, 
similar to the tota of Abyssinia. They are exceedingly 
nctive, and good climbers. They lead a gregarious 
life, and feed on wild berries, mbembu, or wood peach, 
and insects. 

The larger feline animals which we saw were the 
lion and the leopard, in the forests of Ukawendi. The 
hide of the lion becomes the property of the Sultan. 
The lion inhabits the dark thick belts of timber which 
border the streams, and wherever game is found in the 
park lands this proud beast is also sure to be found. 

The cry of the spotted cyn-hy^na was heard almost 
every night on our journey throughout Africa, especially 
in Utanda and Ugogo. This animal is as large as a 
mastiff, with a most powerful head, indicating great 
strength of jaw. Its color is a dirty tawny mixed with 
grey, and with black spots that seem faded. Its ears 
are large and thick, spotted with black. The dental 
system is similar to that of a dog, but the hyaena has 
three false molars in the upper row, and four in the 
lower. Their teeth are armed with formidable cutting 
points, which enable them to crush the largest bones. 

The jackals we met were similar to our prairie 
coyotes, and their cries had the same sharp yelping 
tones. They are similar to foxes in their muzzles, and 
have thick bushy tails. Their color is of a dark grey. 

Other animals which we met were elephants, rhino- 



GEOORAPHICAL AND ETHNOGRAPHICAL REMARKS, 529 

ceroses, the camelopard, or the giraffe, the zebra, the 
hartebeest, the eland, the buffalo, spring-bok, pallah, 
or water buck, the sable antelope, the brindled gnu, 
the reddish and lead-colored hog and wild boar, the 
hyrax, or coney, the kudu (^Ant, streps iceros), the tiny 
perjmsilla, or blue-buck, and scores of the reit-bok, 
or red -buck (.4. Eliotragus). As I liave already 
described them, it is unnecessary to repeat my observa- 
tions. I may mention here that I have seen numbers 
of prairie dogs, or ground squirrels, on the banks of the 
Rugufu or the Gombe. Of the hippopotami and croco- 
diles we saw numbers, in the Kingani, the Grombe, and 
the Malagarazi Rivers, and tlie Lake Tanganika. 

The domesticated animals are such as are common 
to all countries. The oxen are of two kinds ; that 
wliich we saw in Ugogo, Unyanj^embe, and Uhha, was 
distinguished by a hump between the slioulders, such as 
has the American bison. The other kind, which we saw 
in Ujiji only, was distinguished by long legs, thin body, 
and enormously long horns. 

Sheep are common with all tribes, and are distin- 
guished by broad, fat, heavy tails. Goats are numerous, 
and of various colors. But the finest goats in Africa 
are those of Manyuema, which are short-legged and 
stout-bodied. 

The asses, great numbers of which are found in 
Ubanarama^ are strong and large, but vicious and wild. 

Dogs are numerous, and are seen in every village. 
They are of the true pariah breed, and are a cowardly 
and mangy set. 

Tame cats are also frequent in every village, and 
they must have a fine time of it, as the rats infest every 
house, hut, and tembe. 

The feathered race is very numerous in Central 

2 M 



630 EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, 

Africa. The most common of the birds which we saw 
wore fish-eagles, bustards, kites, vultures, white-necked 
crows, turtledoves, ortolans, saddle-billed storks, on the 
Gombe, the Mpokwa, and the Rugufu : the ibis nigra, 
the ibis religiosa, toucans, wild geese (armed with spurs 
on their wings), wild ducks, black Madagascar ducks, 
and gulls on the Tanganika : paddy birds, thrushes, 
hammer-headed storks, pelicans, lead-colored and tuft- 
headed cranes, divers, kingfishers, and Egyptian geese, 
eared grebes, terns, guinea-fowl, quail, ptarmigan, and 
florican. I also saw some ostriches in Ugogo ; swans 
on Lake Ugombo ; snipe and wagtails on the Tanganika, 
near the Rusizi River ; besides great and little owls, bats, 
barbets, and the bala?nceps and sand-pipers. Others which 
I recognized were hoopoes, parrots, jays, wrens, red- 
wings, golden fly-catchers, and the little egrets. This, 
as you may see, is far too long a list to enter into any 
description of the several species. 

Among tlie reptiles we met were a long green snake, 
the boa, and a little silver-backed snake. Rock lizards 
were innumerable ; tortoise, iguanas, the gymnopus, 
toads, frogs, and terrapin were also met with. 

The insects seen principally w^ere the common house 
flies, mosquitoes, fleas, lice, tsetse, liorse and gadflies, 
enormous beetles, dragon-flies, tarantulas, garden and 
house spiders, yellow scorpions, centipedes, myriapedes. 
caterpillars, pismires, white, red, and black ants. 

The fishes of the Tanganika are of great variety. 

(1.) The first is the silurus, called by theWnjiji singa, 
which grows, according to native report, to four, and even 
six feet in length. The one I sketched was S8i inches 
long, and weighed 10| lbs. in weight, but was considered 
to be a small one. It is an extremely fat fish, of a 
dark-brown color on the back, and light biown, nchned 



OEOGRAPmCAL AND ETIINOGRAPniCAL BEMARKS. 581 

to whiteness, on the belly. This fish is scaleless. It k 
the same kind which we find in the pools and rivers. 
It is caught in the Gombe River by hundreds, is cut 
up and dried, and carried into Unyanyembe for sale 
to the i^rabs, the Mohammedanized negroes, and 
Wasawabili. 

(2.) The next in importance and size is the sangara, 
scaled, considered good for food. The one whicli the 
woodcut represents was 23 inches long, and 15i inches 
round tlie body, and weighed 6^ lbs. 

(3.) Next comes the mvuro, a thick, fleshy fish, 
considered excellent eating. This, also, is scaled. The 
engraving on page 532 represents one 18 inches long, 
15| inches round the body, and weighing 5i lbs. 

(4.) A scaled fish called the " chai," which I sketched, 
was 9| inches long, 4 inches round the body, bad a 
greenish tint on its back, and was light underneath. 

(5.) A scaleless fish, 7 inches long, 4 inches broad^ 
marked with pale inky stripes a quarter of an inch 
broad, belly white, a handsome fish, is very numerous 
in the lake, and large captures of this kind are made 
daily by the fishermen of Ujiji. 

(6.) Another scaleless fish, 6 inches long, with silvered 
belly, had a taste like trout, and is a great favorite. 

(7.) A perch, general size 8 inches long, and 6 inches 
round the body, was a very dry fish, and seldom pur- 
chased except by the poor classes. 

(8.) A short, thick eel, is a fine-flavored fish. The 
one sketched was 17 inches long, and 4 inches round 
the body. 

The above-mentioned species are among the most 
important of the fishes of the Tanganika ; but there is 
another variety, which, though the smallest fish, yet 
contributes more than any other to the food of the 



532 



SOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 





QEOQBAPIllCAL AND ETHNOGRAPHICAL REMARKS. 533 

people, and tliat is the minute '* dogara/* a species of 
white-bait, which is caught in great nets by the thou- 
sand. They are spread out in the sun to dry, or are 
salted, and are in this manner exported even as far as 
Unyanyembe. There are also several varieties of fish 
like the sardines of the French coast, which are caught 
with rod and line, or hand-nets. The markets of Ujiji 
also expose shrimps, and a kind of oyster, for sale. 

The metals known to the tribes under consideration 
are copper and iron. The copper is conveyed from the 
coast and from Rua ; the wrought iron from IJsukimia, 
or the northern states of Unyamwezi, and from Uvira. 
All brass ornaments worn in the far interior are manu- 
factured by the natives from the thick brass wire sold 
by caravans. Though iron ore is abundant — even 
cropping above the ground in scores of places between 
Unyamwezi and Ujiji — yet it is seldom worked ; though 
there are instances, in Ukonongo and Uvinza, where 
the natives smelt the ore, and make their own iron. 

The diseases by which the natives are commonly 
afflicted, west of Unyanyembe, are acute dysentery, 
chronic dysentery, cholera morbus, remittent fever, 
intermittent fever, or ague, typhoid fever, low con- 
tinuous fever, heart disease, rheumatism, paralysis, 
small-pox, itch, ophthalmia, sore throat, consumption, 
colic, cutaneous eruptions, ulcers, syphilis, gonorrhea, 
convulsions, prolapsus ani, umbilical hernia, and 
nephritis. 

But the great and terrible scourge of East and 
Central Africa is the small-pox. The bleached skulls 
of the victims to this fell disease, which lie along every 
caravan road, indicate but too clearly the havoc it makes 
annually, not only among the ranks of the several 
trading expeditions, but also among the villages of the 



534 HOW 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

respective tribes. Some caravans are decimated by it, 
and villages have been more than half-depopulated. 
Dr. Livingstone has saved many a poor life in Africa 
by vaccination ; and it is affliction at witnessing the 
ravages daily made amongst the people that has com- 
pelled him to make an appeal for some vaccine matter 
to be sent to him. 

The remedies used by the people themselves are 
simple herbs, or decoctions of herbs, delivered by the 
" waganga," or medicine-men. The medicinal use of 
the castor-oil plant is not known ; the oil extracted 
from the seeds is used only to smear their heads and 
bodies with. Emetics are obtained from the bark of a 
certain tree, and the Arabs state it to be most powerful. 
For nephritic diseases the waganga compound a medi- 
cine from the root of a plant, and from the leaves of a 
shrub which grows near Unyamwezi, but whose name 
they would never tell me, though I endeavoured to 
purchase it with a cloth. Though I have seen a man use 
it daily for a month, I never observed it had any effect 
on him. Among the Arabs the remedy is gum-mastic, 
boiled in water, and a cupful of the liquid taken every 
evening before retiring, or a cupful of new milk taken 
every morning and evening. For rheumatism the re- 
medy is lying down in the sun, or being rubbed briskly. 
Colic is supposed to be cured by inserting the finger 
down the throat, and causing vomiting. For dysentery, 
warm stones are employed over the abdomen, and to 
the posterior parts. Patients suffering from miasmatic 
fevers fold themselves in cloths, and lie down in the sun 
until perspiration ensues ; but I have seen this treat- 
ment terminate with death among the men of my 
own Expedition. In cases of small-pox, quarantine is 
rigorously enforced, no one venturing near the patients 



OEOQBAPHICAL AND ETHNOQRAPmCAL REMARKS. 535 

except those who have ah-eady suffered from it. Members 
of a caravan attacked by tlie small-pox aie excluded 
from the society of the healthy, and have special sheds 
set apart for them outside of the camp. But the suc- 
ceeding caravans contain several reckless young fellows, 
who thoughtlessly enter within, and in a few djiys after- 
wards begin to feel ill, and to complain of loss of appe- 
tite, pains in the back, and low fever ; and before long 
we know they have become victims, and are in their 
turn ostracised, and if unable to walk are left to die, 
for no settlement will permit them to approach their 
gates, and a caravan cannot halt in the wilderness. 
When thus driven from the face of man as one accursed, 
he seeks the jungle, with his store of food and w^afcer; 
builds his hut, and there rests until his recovery or death. 

Upon leaving the noble park lands and forests of 
Unyamwezi, we find ourselves in Ukonongo, famous for 
its wild w^ood-peach trees, and its fine teak-wood, and 
its broad sheets of iron-ore, which crop out frequently 
as we journey toward the south and west, 'i'he eastern 
part of Ukonongo is but a continuation of the park 
land of Unyamwezi ; but as we approach its western 
frontier, bordering on Ukawendi, enormous lumpy 
ridges rise prominently into view, which serve as a 
watershed to the River Mrera, and the numerous oozy, 
marsliy ravines trending towards the Rikwa Plain. 

It is very pretty and agreeable, and, stretching a 
point, we might say picturesque, the first view we get 
of the blue conical hills, which either rise singly or in 
triplets above the far-reaching plain which, so I was 
informed, extends across the Rungwa River to the 
pastoral lands of the Southern Watuta. Many of the 
feeders of the Rungwa River take their rise just where 
Ukonongo and Ukawendi unite. Several rise in the 



636 BOTV 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONS. 

district of Kasera. I have been informed that the 
Rungwa River is as large as the Malagarazi, and that its 
principal source is in Central Urori. During the rainy 
season this river overflows the plain around it, just 
as the Mukondokwa River inundates the Makata Plain. 
Hence, Speke, on liis map, has a bluish patch, which is 
supposed to represent the Rikwa Lagoon ; but much 
questioning on this point has failed to elicit any 
knowledge of it, save that the plain is covered with 
water during the wet season. 

If it be true that the Rungwa River rises in Central 
Urori, then we must accept the statement that the 
Rufiji, or the Ruhwha River, has its sources south-west 
of Ubeiia, as probable, at a group of mountains which 
may possibly be the same whence the Chambezi takes 
its rise. 

South of Ukonongo is the territory of the Watuta ; 
south-east are the districts of the Warori ; south-west 
are Ufipa and Karungu ; west is Ukawendi ; north is 
Utakama, or the southern provinces of Unyamwezi. 

Ukawendi we find to be an almost uninhabited 
country, with an irregular surface, forested, well drained 
by myriads of fine streams, a fertile and a favored land 
with an abounding fauna and flora. The only settle- 
ments of any importance are those of Mana Msenge, in 
the north ; those of Ngondo and Ton g we, in the west, on 
the Tanganika ; those of Rusawa, in the centre ; Pum- 
buru, in the south, and Utanda, in the south-east. 

The more important rivers are the Rugufu, which, 
rising in the hilly group near Pumburu, flows parallel 
with the lake through a deep valley north, issuing into 
the lake south of the Malagarazi. The next is the 
Loajeri, which, rising between Kagungu and Pumburu 
ranges, issues into the lake near the chief village of 



QEOQRAPIIICAL AND ETHNOORAPHICAL REMARKS, 537 

Drimba. There are scores of such rivers as the Uwe- 
lasia, Sigimga, Mviga, and Kivoe. 

Ukawendi, ranking third in size among the countries 
in the central region, stretches from the Malagarazi 
River, from about S. lat. 5° 10' to about S. lat. 6'' 18'. 
It is bounded on the north by Southern Uvinza and 
the Malagarazi River ; on the east by Ugara and 
Ukonongo ; on the south by Usowa and Ufipa ; and on 
the west by the Tanganika Lake. 

Proceeding north from Ukawendi, we arrive in 
Southern Uvinza, a country much cut up by deep 
ravines, of a mountainous and rugged character, inter- 
sected in all directions by dun-colored lines of naked 
ridges. In the alluvial valley of the Malagarazi are 
numerous salt-pans, out of which the natives extract 
considerable quantities of salt. There are but few 
streams flow through it. Among the special pro- 
ductions are goats and grain. 

Crossing the Malagarazi, we come to a lengthy, 
latitudinal strip of poor country, called Northern 
Uvinza. The soil is poor, nourishing but a sparse 
jungle of gums, thorns, tamarind, mimosa, and a few 
stunted specimens of teak. The salt plains are exten- 
sive, and the possession and exclusive right to these 
are fruitful ^subjects of contention between the two 
great chiefs, Lokanda Mira and Nzogera. 

The Malagarazi at its head-waters is known as the 
Northern Gombe. As it flows through extensive 
Salinas, its waters have a slightly saline taste, but not 
disagreeably so. It falls into the Tanganika, south 
of Ujiji Bunder. I believe it is navigable by boats all 
the way from the lake to Wilyankuru. I know it is 
navigable thus far in the rainy season. 

Northern Uvinza is bounded by the pastoral country 



538 now I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

of Uliba on the nortli ; on the east by Ukalaganza and 
Usagozi, or Western Unyamwezi ; on the south by the 
Malagarazi ; and on the west by Ukaranga. 

Its principal settlements are Mpete, Usenye, Yambeho, 
Siala, Isinga, Nzogera's Island, and Lokanda Mira's 
district. The chief productions are goats, sheep, grain, 
and salt. 

From Uvinza we proceed to Uhha. This latter is 
an immense plain country, similar in appearance to 
our prairies of Nebraska. It is known under the two 
divisions, Kimenyi and Antari Uhha, in its most exten- 
sive sense, is bounded on the north by Ututa, on the south 
and east by Uvinza, on the west by Ukaranga and Ujiji. 

The range of mountains which are said to form the 
divisional line between Uhha and Ututa give birth to 
two streams of note, the Rusugi and R-ugufu. Other 
streams are called Sunuzzi, Kanengi, and Pombwe. 
Mostly all tliese streams that run through Uhha are 
slightly brackish, especially the Pombwe, Kanengi, and 
the Rusugi. 

The denuded plains of Uhha support large herds of 
hump-backed cattle and broad- tailed sheep. The goats 
are also very fine. The soil is fertile, and produces 
fine crops of Holcus sorghum and maize. The climate 
is good, and the heat is tempered by the breezes of the 
Tanganika and the winds of Usagara. 

The small lakes or large pools of Uhha are a 
conspicuous feature. They occupy extensive but 
shallow circular depressions, or basins. Evidences are 
not wanting to prove that at one time or another much 
of Uhha was inundated, and that the valley of the 
Malagarazi River was nothing but a deep arm of the 
Tanganika. An accomplished geologist would find 
subjects of surpassing interest in this region. 



SfEOOPiAPEICAL AND ETIINOCfRAPHICAL REMAnKS, 539 

ProceediPig westward, and crossing the small stream 
Siinnzzi, we arrive in Ukaranga, a country exceedingly 
diversified in its character. North^ as it joins Northern 
Uhha, it is mountainous ; south, it is a lengthy smooth 
slojoe, covered with tall teak trees ; in the centre it 
consists of rolling hills, drained by swift, clear streams 
— a fertile and delightful district. From the east, a 
number of parallel ridges, all tree-clad, strike out at 
right angles westward from the main range which 
separates North-eastern Uhha from Ukaranga, and 
subside suddenly as they approach the alluvial valley 
of the Liuche. 

The trees of Ukaranga are principally teak, the 
mbugu, and bamboo. The climate is exceedingly soft 
and moist. A constant drizzle seems to be pouring 
over the tops of the Ukaranga ridges, whence arise the 
numerous streams that discharge themselves into the 
Liuche. 

From the heights of Ukaranga we descend into the 
Liuche valley, and find ourselves in Ujiji, a district of 
surpassing beauty and fertility, and come in view of 
that mighty inland sea whose shores must from hence- 
forth be considered sacred, for " the place that a good 
man has trod remains hallowed to all time." And, 
indeed, nature has assisted us in the love which we 
now feel for the classic lands bordering the Tanganika. 
No man, however prosaic his nature, can stand on the 
beach of Ujiji, and look westward across the broad 
belt of silver waters at sunset, without being affected, 
in the innermost recesses of his heart, at the display of 
colors which the sun reveals on the face of the heaven 
in which he is set. The ethereal colors come and go 
with the rapidity of magic. They are of gold and 
azure, pink and silver, purple and saffron ; in thin lines 



540 EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

and broad bars, cirri and cumuli are transformed into 
burnished flaming gold ; they reflect their refulgence 
on the gigantic blue-black barrier which bounds the 
Tanganika westward ; they reveal the whole panorama 
of mountains, spread over them lovely rosy hues, and 
bathe them in a flood of silver light. 

The most remarkable tribe in Central Africa are the 
Wanyamwezi. A beau-ideal of a Mnyamwezi to me 
will be a tall long-limbed black man, with a good- 
natured face, always with a broad smile upon it ; 
displaying in the centre of the upper row of teeth 
a small hole, which was cut out when he was a boy, to 
denote his tribe ; with hundreds of long wiry ringlets 
hauging down his neck ; almost naked ; giving me a 
full view of a form which would make an excellent 
model for a black Apollo. I have seen many of this 
tribe in the garb of the freedmen of Zanzibar, sporting 
a turban of new American sheeting, or wearing the 
long dishdasheh (shirt) of the Arab, presenting as fine 
and intelligent an appearance as any Msawahili from the 
Zanguebar coast ; but I cannot rid myself of my ideal. 

A Mnyamwezi is the Yankee of Africa ; he is a born 
trader and traveller. From days immemorial his tribe 
has monopolized the carrying of goods from one 
country to another. The Mnyamwezi is the camel, the 
horse, the mule, and the ass — the beast of burden to 
which all travellers anxiously look to convey his 
luggage from the coast to the far African interior. 
The Arab can go no vK re without his help ; the white 
traveller, bound on an exploring trip, cannot travel 
without him. He is generally found in great numbers 
at Bagamoyo, Konduchi, Kaole, Dar Salaam, and Kilwa, 
waiting to be hired for a long voyage. He is like the 
sailor, having his habitat in certain sailors' boarding- 



aiCOUUAFHIGAL AND ETHNOGRAPHICAL REMARKS. 541 

houses ill great seaport towns ; and, like the sailor, is 
a lebtless rover. The sea-coast to a Mnyamwezi is like 
New York to an English sailor. At New York the 
English sailor can re-ship witli higher pay, so can the 
Mjiyamwezi re-hire himself on the coast, for a return 
trip, at a higher rate than from Unyamwezi to the sea. 
He is in such demand, and during war time so scarce, 
that his pay is great, ranging from thirty-six yards of 
cloth to one hundred yards. A hundred of these human 
hetes de somme will readily cost the traveller 10,000 yards 
of cloth, even as far as Unyanyembe, a three months' 
journey. 10,000 yards of cloth at Zanzibar represent 
$5,000 in gold. But with patience and rigid economy 
the same number may be procured for $3,000. 

The Wanyamwezi, weighted with the bales of 
Zanzibar, containing cottons and domestics from 
Massachusetts, calicoes from England, prints from Muscat, 
cloths trom Cutch, beads from Germany, brass wire 
from Great Britain, may be found on the Lualaba, in 
the forests of Ukawendi, on the hills of Uganda, the 
mountains of Karagwah, ou the plains of Urori, on the 
plateau of Ugogo, in the park lands of Ukonongo, in 
the swamps of Useguhha, the defiles of Usagara, in the 
wilderness of Ubena, among the pastoral tribes of the 
Watuta, trudging along the banks of the Rufiji, in slave- 
trading Kihva — everywhere throughout Central Africa. 

While journeying with caravans, they are docile and 
tractable ; in their villages they are a merry-making 
set ; on trading expeditions of their own they are keen 
and clever ; as Ruga-Ruga they are unscrupulous and 
bold ; in Ukonongo and Ukawendi they are hiniters ; 
in Usukuma they are drovers and iron-smelters ; in 
Lunda they are energetic searchers for ivory ; on the 
coast they are a wondering and awe-struck people. 



642 BOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

The Wiinyfmiwezi, 1 fear, are dying cut, or ihty 
have emigTated to distant parts ; but I base my first 
statement upon the large tracts of their country that 
are desolated, such as Mgongo Tembo, Rubuga, Kigwa., 
Utanda, Mfuto, Masange, Wilyankuru. Such uneasy, 
dissatisfied spirits as Manwa Sera, Niongo, Mirambo, 
and Oseto tend by the constant strife tliey are engaged 
in to materially depopulate Unyamwezi. The hardships 
of travel on the gristle of the race are not favorable 
to its multiplication. Eight out of ten of the bleached 
skulls seen along the paths of commerce in the interior 
are those of the unfortunate Wanyamwezi who have 
succumbed to the perils and privations attending the 
footsteps of every caravan. Slavery, with its abomina 
tions, assists in their demoralization and extermination. 
It is ^ad to think that such people should perish from 
the earth, as the warrior race of the Makololo have, 
even within the memory of man, since Liviugstone first 
sighted Linyanti. What a power in the land might 
not a philanthropic government make of these people ! 
What a glorious testimony to the charity of civilization 
might they not become ! What docile converts to the 
Gospel truths, through a practical missionary, would 
they not make ! 

Great is the power of "uganga" — medicine — in 
Unyamwezi. I was reported to be able to make rain, to 
be able to poison all the wells in the country, to kill all 
Mirambo's people with a medicinal preparation, until I 
took the trouble to deny all such power as was attributed 
to me. At first they would bring their sick to me — the 
ulcerous, the syphilitic, sufferers from the itch and the 
small-pox, the consumptive, and those afflicted with 
dysentery — until they all finally became convinced by 
my earnestness that I could do nothing for them. One 



GEOGRAPHICAL AND ETHNOGRAPniCAL liEMARKS. 543 

old man, suffering from chronic dysentery, bronght me 
a fine fat sheep and a dish of choroko — vetches — for 
medicine to cure his disease. I might liave taken tht 
sheep, and given him a worthless compound, but I told 
him at once that I could do nothing for his sickness. 
I gave him, however, about one hundred grains of 
Dover's powders, and a couple of doti of good cloth to 
cover himself and wife with, but refused his sheep, I 
felt so much for the man's sufferings. 

No limiting expedition of Wanyamwezi starts with- 
out having consuhed the niganga — medicine-man — 
who, for a consideration, supplies them with charms, 
potions, herbs, and blessings. A bit of the ear of a 
zebra, tlie blood of a lion, the claw of a leopard, the lip of 
a buffalo, the tail of a giraffe, the eyebrow of a harte- 
beest, are treasures not to be parted with save for a 
monetary value. To their necks are suspended a bit of 
quartz, polished and of a triangular shape, and pieces of 
carved wood, and an all-powerful talisman in the shape 
of a plant sewn up jealously in a small leathern 
purse. 

The Wanyamwezi as a race are arrant cowards. 
Their caravans steal through Ugogo humbly enough, 
but, when out of that dreaded country, they make a 
great blustering show amongst other tribes. During 
war-time in their country their custom is never to 
engage themselves to caravans. Their chiefs discourage 
all trading enterprises, and the commands of their elders 
are laws. 

The system of government is an hereditary monarchy 
in Unyamwezi. The King is called Mtefni. Except in 
Cnyauyembe, Usagozi, and Ugala, no chief in Unya- 
mwezi deserves that title, though it is given by courtesy 
to the chiefs of districts. The present King of Unya- 



544 HOW I FO UNI) LI VINGSTONE. 

nyembe is Mkasiwa ; Pakalambula is King of Ugara ; 
and " Moto," or Fire, of Usagozi. 

Mkasiwa can raise 3,000 warriors in Unyanyembe 
out of a population of nearly 20,000 people. The 
small districts of Tabora and Kwihara could alone 
supply 1,500 warriors. 

There are some curious customs among the Wanya- 
mwezi. When a child is born the father cuts the caul, 
and travels with it to the frontier of his district, and 
there deposits it under the ground ; if the frontier is 
a stream, he buries it on the banks ; then taking the 
root of a tree, he conveys it on his return, and buries it 
at the threshold of his door. He then invites his friends 
to a feast which he has prepared. He kills an ox, or half 
a dozen goats, and distributes pombe. If twins are born, 
they never kill one, but rather think it a greater bless- 
ing. The mother, when approaching childbirth, hastens 
to the woods, and is there attended by a female friend. 

The marriage ceremonies are similar to those amongst 
the Wagogo. The wife is purchased from her father 
for cows or goats, according to the means of the several 
parties. 

Witchcraft, devoted to evil pur^joscs, is punished 
with death. The same ceremony in vogue among the 
Wagogo, concerning the detection and conviction of 
miscreants, is similar to the custom in Unyamwezi. 
Crimes against the state and the community are also 
punished with death. A detected thief, with the evi- 
dences of his guilt on him, may be either slaughtered 
on the spot, or, according to the judgment of the Mtemi, 
or King, become the slave of the owner of the property 
he has attempted to defraud. 

After death, the Wanyamwezi remove the body 
either into the jungle, or, if a person of importance, 










POT POURRI. 






1. 


Storage of Grain. 


7. 


Billhook. 


1-3. 


Manyuema spear. 
Ujiji si)ears. 


i>. 


Threrr'hing. 


8. 


Leglets. 


14. 


3. 


Small hut. 


9. 


Wristlets. 


15. 


Asi?egai. 


4. 


Pipes. 


10. 


Drum. 


1«. 


Kiraugozi's signal h 


5. 


Native hubble-bubble. 


11. 


Brass-wire ornaments. 


17 


Guitar. 


6. 


\^ ar hatchet. 


12. 


Stool. 


18. 


Musical instrument 



QEOGRAPHICAL AND ETHNOORAPmCAL REMARKS, 545 

bury it in a sitting posture, or on its side, as the 
Wagogo. On the march the body is merely thrown 
aside, and left for a prey to the hya3na, the cleanest 
scaveuQ-er of the forest. The Sultan is buried within 
the village. 

The Northern Wanyamwezi are a very industrious 
people. Their iron they themselves smelt, and manu- 
facture almost all the hoes from the Tanganika to 
Usagara. No caravan returns from Unyanyembe with- 
out purchasing hoes, with which they pay the return 
tribute to the Wagogo. The iron ware thus imported 
serves for a multitude of instruments to the eastern and 
western tribes; from it they manufacture their spears, 
arrowheads, billhooks, and war hatchets. In Unyan- 
yembe may be often seen the native artizan peddling 
his deadly instruments for cloth. Two yards will buy 
a new spear, or a dozen arrows ; four yards of sheeting 
will purchase a first-class bow, ornamented with brass 
and copper wire ; and two yards will purchase a for- 
midable-looking liatchet. This last weapon, as may be 
seen from the illustrations in this book, is similar to 
that used by the Ficts in the stone age, and by the 
Romans and Egyptians in their early historical periods, 
and is uniform with that used from Bagamoyo to San 
Salvador — from Nubia to Kaffir-land. 

The Deity in Kinyamwezi is called Miringu ; in 
Kigogo he is called Midungu ; in KisawahiJi, Mienzi 
Mungu. The Wanyamwezi regard him as the dispenser 
of wealth, and the Creator. He is seldom entreated, 
save for adding to their worldly wealth. When death 
has taken away a member of the family in Uuyamwezi, 
it is said by the relatives of the deceased that the 
*' Miringu has taken him or her ;" or, " he or she is 
lost." " It is God's work." And tlie tone of awe with 

2 N 



546 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

which they speak of it implies also " that it is marvelloua 
in their eyes." 

" Can a maid forget her ornaments, or a bride her 
attire ?'' It seems not in Unyamwezi. From the hour 
that she begins to call for " mamma " her ornaments are 
her constant solicitude. She loves to look at the pretty 
wristlets of red, yellow, white, and green beads wliich 
appear in such contrast against the dark hue of her 
skin ; she loves to twine her fingers through the lengthy 
necklaces of variegated beads that are suspended from 
her neck, or to play with the bead belt that encompasses 
her waist; she even sets them in her hair, and loves to 
be told that they become her. It is a pleasure with her 
to possess a spiral wii-e cinctui-e, even though she 
possesses no garment to be supported by it. She awaits 
with impatience the day when she can be married, and 
have a cloth to fold around her body — until she can 
have authority to dispose of her fowls for the cheap 
tinsel vended by Arab merchants. 

The ladies' tea-parties in Anglo-Saxon lands seem to 
have had an early origin. They were in vogue, or at 
least there were gatherings similar to them, when Egypt 
stood highest in the list of civilized nations. Who has 
studied the pictures of ancient Egypt on the walls of 
recovered Memphis, and has not seen the ladies' social 
circle ? I have seen these symposia in Abyssinia — tliat 
land so tenacious of ancient customs. A ladies' party 
may be seen in Unyamwezi, also; and seldom have I be- 
held anything so approaching to happiness and perfect 
contentment as the faces of the old and young women 
of a Kinyamwezi tembe, as they have gathered together 
near sunset from the various houses to sit and chat 
together of the events of the day, on the very trite 
subjects of interest that a Kinyamwezi social circle can 



QEOGKAPIIJGAL AND ETHNOQRAPEICAL REMARKS 5i7 

have to converse about. Each female has her short 
stool and lier growing daughter by her side, who, while 
the mother chats and smokes with her face radiant with 
contentment, employs her nimble luuids in converting 
her parent's woolly locks into a series of plaits and 
ringlets. The elder females, squatted in a circle, begin 
to recite their experiences, chattering away like swallows : 
one tells how her cow has stopped giving milk ; another, 
how well she has sold her milk to the white man; 
another, of her experiences in the field while she was 
hoeing ; another, of how her master has not yet returned 
from the Kinyamwezi capital, wdiither he had gone with 
some grain to sell. 

While the village matrons indulge in harmless gossip, 
the paterfamilias may be found in the Young Men's 
Gossip Institute, or the Exchange, where the prices 
of things and the politics of the district they live 
in are discussed, with perhaps as much acumen and 
sense as other things are in like places in more 
civilized lands. This public assembly room in a Ki- 
nyamwezi village is called in the dialect " Wanza," or 
" Uwanza," and is generally situated on one side of the 
square area within the village. During idle times — 
and it is seldom there are busy times — they smoke, sit 
on their heels, and have a discussion on perhaps the 
very same topics we have just heard the matrons talk 
about : most probably the topic is the white man who 
has just arrived. We may rest assured that, if it is the 
white man, it is a most interesting subject; though, 
however interesting it is, and however gre;it their 
curiosity to know all about him, they are never so 
impertinent as to doubt the fact of his being a white 
man, or to dispute his statements, as certain people 
calling themselves civilized have been pleased to do. 



548 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

A man has a spear to sharpen, or a sword to decorate, 
or an axe helve to make, or a pipe to smoke, or gossip 
to impart, and he enters the Wanza to do it. If the 
place is deserted he hurries through his work, and seeks 
the group under the large tree almost always found 
in a village, where, under its shade, he can indulge his 
love for intellectual conversation. What the Agora 
was to Athens, and the Exchange is to the modern 
capitals of civilization, the Wanza is to a village in 
Unjamwezi. 

The Wanyamwezi, as may be gathered from the 
above remarks, are addicted to smoking. By glancing 
at the illustrations of the various kinds of pipes it will 
be noticed that they display considerable skill in their 
manufacture, and it will be observed also that the 
style of them is very similar to that of the North 
American Indian pipes. While our Indians employ 
red steatite for their pipes the Wanyamwezi use black 
steatite, which is found in Western Usukuma. But as 
this soft stone is somewhat difficult to obtain they 
manufacture them out of black mud, mixed with finely- 
chopped straw. The tobacco of Unyamwezi is not of 
a superior kind. They manufacture it into the same 
form as the tobacco loaves of Abyssinia. A doti, or 
four yards of cloth, will purchase a three-pound loaf; 
and a pipe made of black steatite, and stem highly orna- 
mented with fine brass or copper wire, may be obtained 
for the same quantity of cloth. 

The natives are also very fond of using bhang with 
their tobacco. Their narghileh is a very primitive 
affair, made out of a gourd and a hollow stick. One or 
two inhalations are sufficient to send any of them into a 
series 6f horrible coughs, which seem to rack their 
frames. They, however, delight in this, for frequently 



QEOQRAPniCAL AND ETHNOGRAPHICAL REMARKS. 548 

they aifect it; but it is impossible to describe tbe 
irritabib'ty and disgust which their noisy, harsh, grating 
cough provokes. 

The Wanyamwezi of Unyanyembe own several herds 
of cattle. In whichever country cattle are seen, one 
may take it for granted that it is seldom invaded. 
Bet^veen the coast and Ujiji, cattle were found only in 
Usagara, Ugogo, Uuyanyembe, and Uhha; all other 
countries reared only goats, sheep, and chickens. Some 
of the wealthier Arabs of Unyanyembe possess large 
herds of cattle, and have as many as forty and fifty 
milch cows, but there are few Wanyamwezi who possess 
more than thirty. A milch cow is worth from twenty 
to thirty doti, or 80 to 120 yards of sheeting ; though 
in Usukuma one may be purchased for from two to four 
doti. Half a gallon of milk is considered good milking 
for a cow ; but this is not often the case : I should say 
the average produce was three pints. I was accustomed 
to have one gallon of milk supplied to me every day 
for ten days for four yards of cloth, given in the shape 
of a kitambi, or a colored cloth. With this supply of 
milk I was accustomed to make my own butter and 
cheese, and in Unyanyembe they were the greatest 
luxuries a white man could have. 

This tribe are, like all negroes, great lovers of music. 
It is true that it is barbarous, and becomes monotonous 
after a while, but the best of their musicians can always 
make it amusing. Many of them are great impro- 
visers ; the latest scandal, or political news or personal 
gossip, is sure, if it is of sufficient public interest, to 
find expression in village music. Within a week after 
the declaration of war by Mirambo, there was not a 
village throughout Unyamwezi which did not at evening 
have Mirambo, somehow or another, mentioned in theii 



650 now I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

songs ; and as tliey were all well-known tunes in that 
part of the country, the name of tin's now famous king 
had been interpolated instead of the one previously 
used. The Musungu, or Muzungu, as it is sometimes 
pronounced, was also a favorite subject upon first 
arrival, but this soon lacked novelty. 

The food of these natives, as indeed of all throughout 
Central Africa, consists of flour of matama — the IIolcus 
sorghum, or tlie Arabic dourra, or dura, converted into 
a kind of thick porridge, which is simply a scalded mess. 
This is accompanied with leaves of garden plants, such 
as the bean and the cucumber-plant, which are boiled 
and mashed up. They seldom eat meat, as it would be 
too expensive, and there are many animals from which 
they are averse. They will eat the foetus and entrails 
with rare relish, and if they can obtain meat at another's 
expense they are very apt to gorge themselves. In my 
caravan, when I succeeded in my hunts, tlie Wanyamwezi 
would sit up all night to finish their portion of meat, 
as if it were a sacred duty with them. The mush of 
America, made of Indian corn, is well known throughout 
all Central Africa. When this humble meal is cooked 
the males of the family assemble around their pot, and 
scooping out a large handful, dip it into the mess of 
greens, or ghee, and cram it into their mouths. The 
females eat separately, it being derogatory to male dig- 
nity to be seen eating with female relatives. 

Very old age is unusual in Central Africa. Grey hair 
and stooping backs are to be seen in almost every village. 
The oldest people I saw were in Ugogo and Uiiya- 
nyembe — ancient, secure, and well-established countries. 
I should estimate the age of Magomba, Sultan of 
Kanyenyi, at near ninety : in 1858 — fourteen years ago 
— Capt. Burton mentions him as old and decrepit. He 



GEOOBAPmCAL AND ETENOORAPHICAL REMARKS. 651 

lives yet, but is unable to walk far without assistance. 
His eldest son, Kisewah, must be considerably ovei 
sixty, and liis youngest son, Mtimdu Ngondeli, near fifty. 
The Saltan of Mizanza, who slew Sny bin Arner, the 
friend of Burton and Speke, in my opinion cannot be 
much under eighty ; and Pembera Pereh, chief of 
Nyambwa, must be of the same age. 

I regard the Wakonongo and the Wa-kawendi as 
belonging formerly to the same race as the Wanya- 
mwezi ; their languages, manners, and customs are 
identical. But when we cross the Malagarazi, and 
enter Uvinza, we find ourselves among different people • 
and in describing the Wavinza's manners and customs 
I include the Wajiji, Wakaranga, Warundi, Wavira, 
Watuta, and Watusi. 

The greeting which we hear upon our arrival in 
Uvinza tells us of new tribes, and new customs, to 
which w^e are about to be introduced. It is a most 
tedious ceremony, a first introduction between two 
Wavinza. As they advance they stretch out both 
hands to one another, uttering the words *' Wake, 
wake ;" then, grasping each other by the elbows, they 
begin to rub each other's arms, saying rapidly, " Wake, 
wake, waky, waky,"ending with grunts of " Huh, huh," 
which imjDly mutual satisfaction. The women greet the 
males — even half-grown youths — by bending their 
backs forward until the tips of their fingers rest on the 
toes of their feet, or in turning their bodies sideways, 
clapping their hands, exclaiming, " Wake, wake, waky 
waky ; Huh, huh ;" and the males reply by clapping 
their hands, and responding with the same w^ords. 

The dress of all these people, if they are not rich 
enough to purchase cloth from travelling caravans, or 
skilful enough in the manufacture of their own cloths, 



552 



now I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 



like the Wajiji and Warundi, consists of a goat-skin^ 
suspended by a knot fastened over the shoulder, and 
falling over one side of their bodies. 

For ornaments they affect the solid brass rings around 
their ankles or wrists, or the kitindi (brass wire, which 
is twisted into a spiral coil). The polished tusks of the 
boar, or a polished piece of thin and curved ivory, are 
favourite ornaments for the neck throughout the dis- 
tricts of Uvinza, Uhha, Ujiji, and Urundi. 




The Wajiji are skilful manufacturers of their own 
cloth, from the cotton which they cultivate, and it is 
similar in texture to the Mexican Serape. They are a 
superstitious race, like the Wakaranga. In Niamtaga, 
near the gate of the village, I saw their tutelar deity, 
which was the carved head of a man in wood, painted. 
The face was colored white, with black staring eyes, 



GEOGRAPHICAL AND ETHNOGRAPHICAL REMARKS, 553 

the figure bad square iiprigbt shoulders, and a kind 
of head-dress painted a yellow color. Each man or 
woman, upon entering at the gate, bowed profoundly 
to the idol, as Roman Catholics do before the image 
of the Blessed Yirgin. 

The Wajiji believe that they have power over the 
crocodiles ; that they are so friendly with those amphi- 
bious reptiles that they can compel them to do whatever 
they wish. There is a report current in Ujiji that there 
is a crocodile, as learned as the seal of Barnum*s Museum 
in New York, which obeys the commands of his friends 
implicitly, even to taking a man out of his house into 
the lake, or to travelling into a crowded market, and 
detecting a thief out of a large assembly of natives. 
The caverns of Kabogo, on the western side of the lake, 
are a horror to the Wajiji, who, whenever they pass 
that terrible place, think to mollify the angry god of 
the lake by throwing beads and cloth into the waters. 
They report that this is necessary, and that the god has 
a preference for white (Merikani) beads ; and the 
Wangwana of Zanzibar and the Arabs must comply 
witli this traditional custom ere the Wajiji will pull 
oars across. In passing Bemba, also, every boat must 
chip a certain portion of the pipe-clay ere it can be 
assured of a fortunate voyage. That it has been a 
custom complied with for generations is evident by the 
enormous excavation they have made in the chalk cliff. 

No more varied customs have I observed anywhere in 
regard to tlie dressing of the hair than I have seen in 
Urundi and Ujiji. Tt is either shaved off entirely, or left 
in diagonal and horizontal lines ; or in combs, ridges, 
tufts, stripes, little curls on the temple and forehead : or 
in front bands, and sometimes in narrow wav}^ or straight 
lines : from wliich we may conclude that the friseur s is 



554 now I FOUND LIVINO STONE. 

a high art in savage as in civilized lands. And in the 
ornamentation of their bodies by tattooing they are 
superior to other tribes. You will find a tattooed wheel 
encircling the navel, and around each bosom ; on the 
arms the tattooing marks are in wavy lines, or con- 
centric folds, or in lines running diagonally across the 
chest to the slioulder ; in bracelets around tlie wrist; 
then from left shoulder to right hip, from riglit shoulder 
to left hip, over the stomach, in a most intricate system 
of Hues wavy and horizontal ; and over the abdomen in 
great blotch pieces, with no design whatever. The 
operation of tattooing, though, must be a painful one. 
if one may judge from the immense blisters raised after 
the punctures. 

Nothing limits the vanity of the negro for ornament 
except poverty. Those able to afford the expense wear 
as many as thirty and forty necklaces of sami-sami, 
Merikani, sofi, or pipe-stem beads, kadunduguru, and the 
pink beads. I refer to the Wajiji and Warundi, more 
especially the latter. Suspended to their necks are the 
thin curved pieces of ivory, hippopotamus teeth, and 
boar tusks ; and at the back of the neck heavy pieces of 
carved ivory. Some wear attached to their necks long 
narrow miniature bells of native iron, twisted iron wire, 
and charms, or white polished stones or shells, as 
amulets. Encircling their wrists are armlets of sami- 
sami or blue mutunda, which latter is a favourite bead ; 
belts of these beads also surround their waists. 

Their clothing consists of a tanned goat, calf, or 
sheep skin, dyed with the reddish porous clay swept down 
the ravines by the rivulets. These hide-garments are 
further ornamented with black lines, spots, and circles, 
after the manner in vogue amongst our American 
Indians. 



GEOORAPTIICAL AND ETENOOBAPHICAL RLMAJRKS. 555 

Like the Wagogo, and perhaps to a greater extent, 
the Warnndi are fond of ochre on their bodies. Besides 
rubbing their bodies with this clay, winch considerably 
lightens the color, they daub their faces, heads, eyelids, 
and eyebrows a deep red with it. 

Their women are in the habit of tying down their 
long purse-like breasts upon their chests with a cord 
twined round their bodies. They carry for defence, or 
from habit, long sticks, which are sometimes decorated 
with a small figure of a lizard, or a crocodile, on the 
head. 

The tribes bordering the lake carry heavy spears for 
close action, or for quartering a man, and light assegai, 
which they are able to throw most accurately fifty and 
seventy yards. The bows are shorter than those used 
by the Wanyamwezi and Wakonongo, but the arrows 
are the same, though more skilfully and tastefully made. 

The Wabembe, or the Wavembe — the cannibals 
who inhabit the rugged range of mountains west of 
the Tanganika, and opposite North-eastern Urundi — are 
a people seldom seen by travellers on the lake. They 
seem to infer, from their own practices, that other 
people eat their kind, and when boats with Arabs and 
Wangwana appear in their vicinity they keep close 
to their own mountain villages. It is said, though 
I do not vouch for the truth of the report, that 
when they have known an Arab merchant to have a 
sickly or a moribund slave, they have offered to pur- 
chase him for grain and vegetables ; that when they 
have seen an unusually fat freedman of Zanzibar, 
they have put their hands to their mouths, and ex- 
claimed, with astonishment, " Chukula^ ngema sana, 
hapal Chumvi mengir — Food, good, indeed, here! 
Salt plenty ! 



55« 



EOW J FOUND IJVISG STONE. 



The Wasaiisi — or Basansi, as Dr. Livingstone thinks 
they should I'c called — are neighbors of the Wahembe, 
and I fear they must be classed with the man-eaters of 
Ubembe. The Wasansi were tliose who at Cape 
Luvimiba made such a disturbance with the Doctoi 
and myself because of the murder of the son of Sultan 
Kisesa by Khamis, the Baluch, and who declared t(^ us 
they never wished to behold another " Murungwana " — 
Zanzibar freeman. Positively, I never beheld such 




DAGGERS AND SPEAR-HEADS. 



excitement in my life as these people exhibited when 
they saw one of my soldiers cutting up a goat for 
distribution. They seemed to be attacked with a kind 
of frenzy at the sight of the meat, such as one might 
expect from any hungry carnivorous animal. Thev 
implored with wild eyes for the smallest portion ; they 
fought among themselves when one of my men threw a 
piece into a crowd ; they eagerly gathered the clotted 



GEOGRAPHICAL AND ETUNOQliAPinCAL 11 EM AUKS 557 

blood of the goat from the grouud, and gazed with an 
esurient avidity at every mouthful of meat a man ate. 
Whatever may be true respecting the man-eating pro- 
pensities of the Wabembe, I feel assured that the Wasansi 
are cannibals. 

The Manyuema are the cleverest manufacturers of 
weapons, as may be seen by the foregoing sketch of 
daggers and spear-heads. 



668 



now 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONK 




VIF.W OF OUE CAMP AT URIMBA. 



CHAPTER XY. 



OUR JOURNEY FROM UJIJI TO UNYANYEMBB. 



We felt quite at home when we sat down on our black 
bear-skin, gay Persian carpet and clean new mats, to 
rest with our backs to the wall, sipping our tea with the 
air of comfortable men, and chat over the incidents 
of the "picnic," as Livingstone persisted in calling our 
journey to the Rusizi. It seemed as if old times, which 
we loved to recall, had come back again, though our 



Dec. l«7l.] OUR JOURNEY TO VNTANYEMBE. 568 

house was humble enough in its aspect, and our servants 
were only naked barbarians ; but it was near this house 
that I had met him — Livingstone — after that eventful 
march from Unyanyembe ; it was on this same veranda 
that I listened to that wonderful story of his about those 
far, enchanting regions west of tlie Lake Tanganika ; it 
was in this same spot that I first became acquainted 
with him ; and ever since my admiration has been 
growing for him, and I feel elated when he informs 
me that he must go to Unyanyembe under my escort, 
and at my expense. The old mud walls and the bare 
rafters, and the ancient thatched roof, and this queer- 
looking old veranda, will have an historical interest for 
me while I live, and so, while I can, I have taken 
pains and immortalized the humble old building by a 
sketch. 

I have just said that my admiration for Livingstone 
has been growing. This is true. The man that I was 
about to interview so calmly and complacently, as I 
would interview any prominent man with the view of 
specially delineating his nature^ or detailing his ojjinions, 
has conqueied me. Shall I tell you what I intended 
to do ? It is true as the gospel. I intended to interview 
him, report in detail what he said, picture liis life and 
his figure, then bow him my " au recolr,'' and march 
back. That he was specially disagreeable and brusque 
in his manner, which would make me quarrel with him 
immediately, was firmly fixed in my mind. Besides, 
he was an Englishman — perhaps a man who used an 
ej^e-glass, through which he would glare at me furo 
ciously or icily — both amounting to the same thing — 
and like the young cornet of the Scinde Horse in Abys- 
sinia, ask me deliberately, after retreating from me 
several paces, " Whom have I the honor to address ?" 



560 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

or like that ancient general at Senafe, Sir , 

who snorted out, " Well, sir, who are you ? What do you 
want here ?" Indeed, the results of my acquaintance 
with English gentlemen were such^ that I should not 
have been surprised if he had said, " Might I ask you, 
sir, if you have a letter of introduction for me ?" But 
what a question this had been on the shores of Lake 
Tanganika ! I would have just ordered a retreat to the 
hill above Ujiji ; there rested for two days^ and then 
returned, to tell the world how I had been snubbed. 
But Livingstone — true, noble Christian, generous- 
hearted, frank man — acted like a hero, invited me 
to his house, said he was glad to see me, and got well 
on purpose to prove the truth of his statement, " You 
have brought new life unto me ;" and when I fell sick 
with the remittent fever, hovering between Hfe and 
death, he attended me like a father, and we ha (j now 
been together for more than a month. Can you wonder 
that I like this man, whose face is the reflex of his 
nature, whose heart is essentially all goodness, whose aims 
are so high, that I break out impetuously sometimes : 
'* But your family. Doctor, they would like to see you, 
oh ! so much. Let me tempt you to come home with me. 
I promise to carry you every foot of the way to the 
coast. You shall have the finest donkey to ride that is 
in Unyanyembe. Your wants — you have but to liint 
them, and they shall be satisfied. Let the sources of 
the Nile go — do you come home and rest ; then, after 
a year's rest, and restored health, you can return and 
finish what you have to do." 

But ever the answer was, " No, I should like to see 
my family very much indeed. My children's letters 
affect me intensely ; but I must not go home ; I must 
finish my task. It is only the want of supplies that 



Djco. 1871.] OUR JOURNEY TO UNYANYEMBE. 561 

has detained me. I should have finished the discovery 
of the Nile by this, by tracing it to its connection with 
either Baker's Lake, or Petherick's branch of the Nile. 
If I had only gone one month further, I could have 
said, ' the work is done/ But Dr. Kirk has kept 
on sending me slaves over and over again ; and he 
ought to know, too, what slaves are. Why he 
should have gone to Banyans for men I can't make 
out." 

Some of these men who had turned the Doctor back 
from his interesting discoveries were yet in Ujiji, and 
had the Government Enfield rifles in their hands, which 
they intended to retain until their wages had been paid 
to them ; but as they had received $60 advance 
each at Zanzibar from the English Consul, with the 
understanding entered into by contract that they should 
follow their master wherever he required them to 
go ; and as they had not only not gone where they 
were required to proceed with him, but had baffled and 
thwarted him, it was preposterous that a few men 
should triumph over the Doctor, by keeping the arms 
given to him by the Bombay Government. I had 
listened to the Arab sheikhs, friends of the Doctor, 
advising them in mild tones to give them up ; I had 
witnessed the mutineers' stubbornness ; and it was then, 
on the burzani of Sayd bin Majid's house, that I took 
advantage to open my mind on the subject, not only 
for the benefit of the stubborn slaves, but also for the 
benefit of the Arabs ; and to tell them thnt it was well 
that I had found Livingstone alive, for if they had but 
injured a hair of his head, I should have gone back to 
the coast, to return with a party which would enable 
me to avenge him. I had been waiting to see Living- 

2 o 



662 ffOW I FOUND LIVINGST NE. 

stone's guns returned to him every dny, hoping that I 
should not have to use force ; but when a month or 
more had elapsed, and still the arms had not been 
returned, I applied for permission to take them, which 
was granted. Susi, the gallant servant of Dr. Living- 
stone — who would have been worth his weight in silver 
if he were not an incorrigible thief — was immediately 
despatched with about a dozen armed men to recover 
them, and in a few minutes w^e had possession of them, 
without further trouble. 

The Doctor had resolved to accompany me to Unya- 
nyembe, in order to meet his stores, which had been 
forwarded from Zanzibar, November 1st, 1870, by the 
British Consul. As I had charge of the escort, it was 
my duty to study well the several routes to Unya- 
nyembe from Ujiji. I was sufficiently aware of the 
difficulties and the responsibilities attached to me 
while escorting such a man. Besides, my own personal 
feelings were involved in the case. If Livingstone 
came to any harm through any indiscretion of mine 
while he was with me, it would immediately be said, 
" Ah ! had he not accompanied Stanley, he would have 
been alive now." 

I took out my chart — the one I had made myself — 
in which I had perfect faith, and I sketched out a 
route which would enable us to reach Unyanyembe 
without paying a single cloth as tribute, and without 
encountering any worse thing than a jungle, by which 
w^e could avoid all the Wavinza and the plundering 
Wahha. And this peaceable, secure route led by 
w^ater, so'^m, along the coast of Ukaranga and Uka- 
wendi, to Cape Tongwe. Arriving at Cape Tongwe, 
I should be opposite the village of Itaga, Sultan Imrera, 



Dec. 1871.] OUB JOUBNET TO UNYANYEMBE. 563 

in the district of Rusawa of Ukawendi; after which we 
should strike my old road, which I had traversed from 
Unyanyembe, when bound for Ujiji. I explained it to 
the Doctor, and he instantly recognised its feasibility 
and security ; and if I struck Imrera, as I proposed to 
do, it would demonstrate whether my chart was correct 
or not. 

We arrived at Ujiji from our tour of discovery, north 
of the Tanganika, December 13th; and from this date 
the Doctor commenced writing his letters to his nume- 
rous friends, and to copy into his mammoth Letts's 
Diary, from his field books, the valuable information 
he had acquired during his years of travel south and 
west of the Tanganika. I sketched him while sitting 
in his shirt-sleeves in the veranda, with his Letts's 
Diary on his knee ; and the likeness on the other page 
is an admirable portrait of him, because the artist who 
has assisted me has, with an intuitive eye, seen the 
defects in my own sketch ; and by this I am enabled to 
restore him to the reader's view exactly as I saw him — 
as he pondered on what he had witnessed during his 
long marches. 

Soon after my arrival at Ujiji, he had rushed to his 
paper, and indited that letter to James Gordon 
Bennett, Esq., wherein he has recorded his thanks ; 
and after he had finished it, I asked him to add the 
word "Junior" to it, as it was young Mr. Bennett to 
whom he was indebted. I thought the letter admirable, 
and requested the Doctor not to add another word to 
it. The feelings of his heart had found expression in 
the grateful words he had written ; and if I judged 
Mr. Bennett rightly, I knew he would be satisfied with 
it. For it was not the news he cared so much about, 
as the grand fact of Livingstone's being alive or dead. 



664 HOW I FO UND LIVING S TONE, 

In this latter part of December he was writing letters 
to his children, to Sir Roderick Murchison, and to Lord 
Granville. He had intended to have written to the 
Earl of Clarendon, but it was my sad task to inform 
him of the death of that distinguished nobleman. 

In the meantime I was preparing the Expedition foi. 
its return march to Unyanyembe, apportioning the balet 
and luggage, the Doctor's large tin boxes, and my own, 
among my own men ; for I had resolved upon per- 
mitting the Doctor's men to march as passengers, 
because they had so nobly performed their duty to 
their master. 

Sayd bin Majid had left, December 12, for Mirambo's 
country, to give the black Bonaparte battle for the 
murder of his son Soud in the forests of Wilyankuru ; 
and lie had taken with him 300 stout fellows, armed 
with guns, from Ujiji. The stout-hearted old chief was 
burning with rage and resentment, and a fine warlike 
figure he made with his 7-foot gun. Before we had 
departed for the Rusizi, I had wished him bon voyage, 
and expressed a hope that he would rid the Central 
African world of the tyrant Mirambo. 

On the 20th of December the rainy season was 
ushered in with heavy rain, thunder, lightning, and 
hail ; the thermometer faUing to 66° Fahrenheit. The 
evening of this day I was attacked with urticaria, or 
** nettle rash," for the third time since arriving in 
Africa, and I suffered a woeful sickness; it was the 
forerunner of an attack of remittent fever, which lasted 
four days. This is the malignant type, which has 
proved fatal to so many African travellers on the 
Zambezi, the White Nile, the Congo, and the Niger. 
Tlie head throbs, the pulses bound, the heart struggles 
painfully, while the sufferer's thoughts are in a strange 



Dec. 1871.] OUR JOURNEY TO UNYANYEMBE. 566 

world, such only as a sick man's fancy can create. This 
was the fourth attack of fever since the day I met 
Livingstone. The excitement of the march, and the 
high hope which my mind constantly nourished, had 
kept my body almost invincible against an attack of 
fever while advancing towards Ujiji ; but two weeks 
after the great event had transpired my energies were 
relaxed, my mind was perfectly tranquil, and I be- 
came a victim. However, as I had never been prone 
to intemperance, or to the indulgence of other vicious 
habits which destroy so many fine constitutions, my 
frame, happily, did not succumb to the repeated attacks 
of the insidious disease. 

Christmas came, and the Doctor and I had resolved 
upon the blessed and time-honored day being kept as 
we keep it in Anglo-Saxon lands, with a feast such as 
Ujiji could furnish us. The fever had quite gone from 
me the night before, and on Christmas morning, though 
exceedingly weak, I was up and dressed, and lecturing 
Feraj ji, the cook, upon the importance of this day to 
white men, and endeavoring to instil into the mind 
of the sleek and pampered animal some cunning secrets 
of the culinary art. Fat broad-tailed sheep, goats, 
zogga and pombe, eggs, fresh milk, plantains, singwe, 
fine corn-flour, fish, onions, sweet potatoes, &c., (fee, 
were procured in the Ujiji market, and from good old 
Moeni Kheri. But, alas ! for my weakness. Ferajji 
spoiled the roast, and our custard was burned — the 
dinner was a failure. That the fat-brained rascal 
escaped a thrashing was due only to my inability to lift 
my hands for punishment ; but my looks were dreadful 
and alarming, and capable of annihilating any one 
except Ferajji. The stupid, hard-headed cook only 
chuckled, and I believe he had the subsequent gratifica- 



5G6 now I FOUND LI VINO STONE. 

tion of eating the pies, custards, and roast that his 
carelessness had spoiled for European palates. 

Sajd bin Majid, previous to his departure, had left 
orders that we should be permitted to use his canoe for 
our homeward trip, and Moeni Kheri kindly lent his 
huge vessel for the same purpose. The Expedition, now 
augmented by the Doctor and his five servants, and 
their luggage, necessitated the employment of another 
canoe. We had our flocks of milch-goats and provision 
of fat sheep for the jungle of Ukawendi, the transit 
of which I was about to attempt. Good Halimah, 
Livingstone's cook, had made ready a sackful of fine 
flour, such as she only could prepare in her fond devo- 
tion for her master. Hamoydah, her husband, also had 
freely given his assistance and attention to this im- 
portant article of food. I purchased a donkey for 
the Doctor, the only one available in Ujiji^ lest the 
Doctor might happen to suffer on the long march from 
his ancient enemy. In short, we were luxuriously 
furnished with food, sheep, goats, cheese, cloth, donkeys, 
and canoes, sufficient to convey us a long distance* 
we needed nothing more. 

The 27th of December has arrived ; it is the day of 
our departure from Ujiji. I was probably about to give 
an eternal farewell to the port, whose name will for 
ever be consecrate in my memory. The canoes — 
great lumbering hollow trees — are laden with good 
things ; the rowers are in their places ; the flag of 
England is hoisted at the stern of the Doctor's canoe; 
the flag of America waves and rustles joyously above 
mine ; and I cannot look at them without feeling a 
certain pride that the two Anglo-Saxon nations are 
represented this day on this great inland sea, in the face 
of wild nature and barbarism. 



Deo. 1871.] OUR JOURNEY TO UNYANYEMBE. 561 

We are escorted to our boats by the great Arab 
merchants, by the admiring children of Unyarawezi, 
by the freemen of Zanzibar, by wondering Wagiihha 
and Wajiji, by fierce Warundi, who are on this day 
quiet, even sorrowful, that the white men are going — 
'' Whither ?" they all ask. 

At 8 A.M. we start, freely distributing our farewells 
as the Arabs and quidnuncs wave their hands. On the 
part of one or two of them there was an attempt to say 
something sentimental and affecting, especially by the 
convicted sinner Mohammed bin Sali ; but though 
outwardly I manifested no disapprobation of his words, 
or of the emphatic way in which he shook my hand, I 
was not sorry to see the last of him, after his treachery 
to Livingstone in 1869. I was earnestly requested to 
convey to Unyanyembe ^' Mengi salaams " to every- 
body, but had I done so, as he evidently desired me 
to do, I would not have been surprised at being re- 
garded by all as hopelessly imbecile. 

We shoved off from the clayey bank at the foot of 
the market-place, wliile the land party, unencumbered 
with luggage, under the leadership of gigantic Asmani 
and Bombay, commenced their journey southward along 
the shores of the lake. We had arranged to meet 
them at the mouth of every river to transport them 
across from bank to bank. 

The Doctor being in Sayd bin Majid's boat, which 
was a third or so shorter than the one under my com- 
mand, took the lead, with the British flag, held aloft by 
a bamboo, streaming behind like a crimson meteor. 
My boat — manned by Wajiji sailors, whom we had 
engaged to take the canoes back from Tongwe Cape to 
Ujiji Bunder — came astern, and had a much taller flag- 
stafif, on which was hoisted the ever-beautiful Stars and 



568 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

Stripes. Its extreme height drew from the Doctor,— 
whose patriotism and loyalty had been excited, — the 
remark that he would cut down the tallest palmyra for 
his flagstaff, as it was not fitting that the British Hag 
should be so much lower than that of the United 
States. 

Our soldiers were not a whit behind us in light- 
heartedness at the thought of going to Unyanyembe. 
They struck up the exhilarating song of the Zanzibar 
boatmen, with the ecstatic chorus — 



Kinan de re re Kitunga, 

rowing away like madmen, until they were compelled 
to rest from sheer exhaustion, while the perspiration 
exuded from tlie pores of their bodies in streams. When 
refreshed, they bent back to their oais, raising the song 
of the Mrima — 

mama, re de mi Ky, 

which soon impelled them to an extravagant effort 
again. It was by this series of ferocious spurts, racing, 
shouting, singing, perspiring, laughing, groaning, and 
puffing that our people vented their joyous feelings, as 
the tliought tilled their minds that we were homeward 
bound, and that by the route I had adopted between 
us and Unyanyembe there was not the least danger. 

We have given the Walia, the slip ! ha, La ! 
The Wavinza will trouble U8 no more ! oh, oh ! 
Mionvu can get no more cloth from us I hy, hy ! 
And Kiala will see us no more — never more ! he, he I 

they shouted with wild bursts of laughter, seconded by 
tremendous and rapid strokes with their oars, which 
caused the stiff old canoes to ouiver from stem to stern. 



Dec. 1871.] OUR JOURNEY TO UNYANYEMBE. 56S 

Our party asliore seemed to partake of our excite- 
ment, and joined in the wild refrain of the mad African 
song. We watched them urging their steps forward to 
keep pace with us, as we rounded the capes and points, 
and rowed aci'oss the hays whose margins were sedge, 
and rush, and reed. The tiny and agile Kalulu, little 
Bilali, and Majwara were seen racing the herds of goats, 
sheep, and donkeys which belonged to the caravan, and 
the animals even seemed to share the general joy. 

Nature, also — proud, wild nature — with the lofty 
azure dome upheaved into infinity — with her breadth 
and depth of vivid greenness and enormous vastness 
on our left — with her immense sheet of bright, glancing 
water — with her awful and intense serenity — she par- 
took of and added to our joy. 

About 10 A.M. we arrived at Kirindo's, an old chief, 
noted for his singular kindness to Dr. Livingstone, 
while he bore animosity to the Arabs. To the Arabs 
this was unaccountable — to the Doctor it was plain : 
he had but spoken kind and sincere words, while all 
the Arabs spoke to him as if he were not even a man, 
least of all a. chief. 

Kirindo's place is at the mouth of the Liuche, which 
is very wide ; the river oozes out through a forest of 
eschinomenae (pith tree). This was a rendezvous agreed 
upon between shore and lake parties, that the canoes 
might all cross to the other side, distant a mile and a 
half. The mouth of the Liuche forms the Bay of 
Ukaranga, so named because on the other side, whither 
we were about to cross our party, was situated the 
village of Ukaranga, a few hundred yards from the lake. 
All the baggage was taken out of the largest canoe, 
and stowed snugly in the smaller one, and a few select 
oarsmen having taken seats, pushed off with the Doctor 



670 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

on board, who was to superintend pitching the encamp- 
ment at Ukaranga ; while I remained behind to bind 
the fractious and ill-natured donkeys, and stow them 
away in the bottom of the large canoe, that no danger 
of upsetting might be incurred, and a consequent gob- 
bling-up by hungry crocodiles, which were all about us 
waiting their opportunity. The flock of goats were 
then embarked, and as many of our people as could be 
got in. About thirty still remained behind with myself, 
for whom my canoe was to return. 

We all arrived safe at Ukaranga, though we got 
dangerously near a herd of hippopotami. The crossing 
of tlie wide mouth (the Lit^JiK being then in flood) 
was effected in about four hours. 

The next day, in the same order as on our departure 
from Ujiji, we pursued our way south, the lake party 
keeping as closely as possible to the shore, yet, when 
feasible, wind and weather permitting, struck off boldly 
across the numerous small bays which indent the shores 
of the Tanganika. The shores were beautifully green, 
the effect of the late rains ; the waters of the lake were 
a faithful reflex of the blue firmament above. The 
hippopotami were plenty. Those noticed on this day 
were colored with reddish rings round the base of their 
ears and on the neck. One monster, coming up rather 
late, was surprised by the canoe making full for him, and 
in great fright took a tremendous dive which showed 
the whole length of his body. Half way between 
the mouth of the Malagarazi and that of the Liuche we 
saw a camp on shore — that of Mohammed bin Gharib, a 
Mtsawahili, who figured often in Livingstone's verl)al 
narrative to me of his adventures and travels as one of 
the kindest and best of the Moslems in Central Africa. 
He appeared to me a kindly disposed man, with a face 



Dec. 1871.] OUR JOURNEY TO UNYANYEMBE, 671 

seldom seen, having the stamp of an unusual character- 
istic on it — that of sincerity. 

The vegetation of the shores as we proceeded was 
truly tropical, each curve revealed new beauties. With 
the soft chalky stone, of which most of the cliffs and 
bluffs are made, seen as we neared the mouth of the 
Malagarazi, the surf has played strange freaks. 

We arrived at the mouth of the Malagarazi about 
2 P.M., having rowed eighteen miles from Ukaranga. 
The shore party arrived, very much fatigued, about 

5 P.M. 

The next day v/as employed in crossing the caravan 
across the broad mouth of ..he Malagarazi to our camp, 
a couple of miles north of the river. This is a river 
which a civihsed community would find of immense 
advantage for shortening the distance between the 
Tanganika and the coast. Nearly one hundred miles 
might be performed by this river, which is deep enough 
at all seasons to allow navigation as far as Kiala, in 
Uvinza, whence a straight road might be easily made to 
Unyanyembe. Missionaries also might reap the same 
benefit from it for conversion-tours to Uvinza, Uhha, 
and Ugala. Pursuing our way on the 30th, and 
rounding the picturesque capes of Kagongo, Mviga and 
Kivoe, we came, after about three hours' rowing, in sight 
of villages at the mouth of the swift and turbid Rugufu. 
Here we had again to transport the caravan over the 
crocodile-infested mouth of the river. 

On the morning of the 31st we sent a canoe with 
men to search for food in the two or three villages that 
were visible on the other side. Four doti purchased 
just sufficient for four days for our caravan of forty- 
eight persons. We then got under weigh, having 



672 HOW I FOUND LIVING ST ONE, 

informed the kirangozi that Urimba was our destination, 
and bidding him keep as closely as possible to the lake 
shore, where it was practicable, but if not, to make the 
best he could of it. From the deboucliement of the 
Rugufu, the head-waters of which we had crossed on our 
random route to Ujiji, to Urimba, a distance of six days 
by water, there are no villages, and consequently no 
food. The shore party, however, before leaving Ujiji, 
had eight days' rations, and on this morning four days', 
distributed to each person, and therefore was in no 
danger of starvation should the mountain headlands, 
now unfolding, abrupt and steep, one after another, 
prevent them from communicating with us. It must 
be understood that such a journey as this had never 
been attempted before by any Arab or Msawahili, and 
every step taken was in sheer ignorance of where the 
road would lead the men ashore. Rounding Kivoe's 
steep promontory, whose bearded ridge and rugged 
slope, wooded down to the water's edge, whose exqui- 
site coves and quiet recesses, might well have evoked 
a poetical effusion to one so inclined, we dared the 
chopping waves of Kivoe's bay, and stood direct for 
the next cape, Mizohazy, behind which, owing to wind 
and wave, we were compelled to halt for the night. 

After Mizohazy is the bold cape of Kabogo — not the 
terrible Kabogo around whose name mystery has been 
woven by the superstitious natives — not the Kal)ogo 
whose sullen thunder and awful roar were heard wlien 
crossing the Rugufu on our flight from the Wahha — 
but a point in Ukaranga on whose hard and uninviting 
rocks many a canoe has been wrecked. We passed 
clo&3 to its forbidding walls, thankful for the calm of 
the Tanganika. Near Kabogo are some very fine 



Deo. 1871.] OUR JOURNEY TO UNYANYEMBE. 673 

mvule trees, well adapted for canoe building, and there 
are no loud-mouthed natives about to haggle for the 
privilege of cutting them. 

Along the water's edge, and about three feet above it, 
was observed very clearly on the smooth face of the 
rocky slopes of Kabogo the high -water mark of the 
lake. This went to show that the Tanganika, during 
the rainy season, rises about three feet above its dry 
season level, and that, during the latter season, evapora- 
tion reduces it to its normal level. The number of 
rivers which we passed on this journey enabled me to 
observe whether, as I was told, there was any current 
setting north. It was apparent to me that, while the 
south-west, south, or south-east winds blew, the brown 
flood of the rivers swept north ; but it happened that, 
while passing, once or twice, the mouths of rivers, after 
a puff from the north-west and north, that the muddied 
waters were seen southward of the mouths, from which 
I conclude that there is no current in the Tanganika 
except such as is caused by the fickle wind. 

Finding a snug nook of a bay at a place called 
Sigunga, we put in for lunch. An island at the mouth 
of the bay suggested to our minds that this was a 
beautiful spot for a mission station ; the grandly sloping 
hills in the background, with an undulating shelf of 
land well-wooded between them and the bay, added 
to the attractions of such a spot. The island, capable 
of containing quite a large village, and perfectly defen- 
sible, might, for prudence' sake, contain the mission 
and its congregation ; the land-locked bay would pro- 
tect their fishery and trade vessels : the fertile groimd 
between the hills and the bay would more than sustain 
a hundred times the number of the population of the 
island. Wood for building theii* canoes and houses is 



674 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

close at hand ; the neighboring country would afford 
game in abundance ; and the docile and civil people of 
Ukaranga but waited religious shepherds. 

From beautiful Sigunga, after a brief halt, we set off, 
and, after three hours, arrived at the mouth of the 
River Uwelasia. Hippopotami and crocodiles being 
numerous, we amused ourselves by shooting at them, 
having also a hope of attracting the attention of our 
shore party, the sound of whose guns we had not 
heard since leaving the Rugufu. 

On the 3rd of January we left Uwelasia, and, passing 
by Cape Herembe, were in the Bay of Tongwe. This 
bay is about twenty-five miles broad, and stretches from 
Cape Herembe to Cape Tongwe. Finding themselves 
so near their destination, Urimba being but six miles 
from Herembe Point, the men of both boats bent them- 
selves to their oars, and, with shouts, songs, and laughter, 
encouraged each other to do their utmost. The flags of 
the two great Anglo-Saxon nations rippled and played 
in the soft breeze, sometimes drawing near caressingly 
together, again bending away, like two lovers coy to 
unite. The tight little boat of the Doctor would keep 
ahead, and the crimson and crossed flag of England 
would wave before me, and it seemed to say to the 
beautiful laggard astern, " Come on, come on ; England 
leads the way." But was it not England's place to be 
in the front here ? She won the right to it by discovering 
the Tanganika ; America came but second. 

Urimba, though a large district of Kawendi, has a 
village of the same name peopled by refugees from 
Yombeh, who found the delta of the Loajeri, though 
the unhealthiest of spots — equal to that of the Busizi — 
far preferable to the neighbourhood of Sultan Pumburu, 
of Southern Kawendi. A good chase by the victors 



Jan. 1872.] OUR JOURNEY TO UNYANYEMBE, 575 

seems to have given a shock to their systems, for the} 
are very timid and distrustful of strangers, and would 
by no means permit us to enter their village, of which, 
to say the truth, I was very glad, after a glance at the 
reeking corruption on which they were encamped. In 
the immediate neighbourhood — nay, for a couple of 
miles on either side — I should suppose that to a white 
man it were death to sleep a single night. Leading the 
way south of the village, I found a fit camping-place at 
the extreme south-east corner of Tongwe Bay, about a 
mile and a half due west of the lofty peak of Kivanga, 
or Kakungu. By an observation taken by the Doctor, 
we found ourselves to be in latitude 5° 54' south. 

None of the natives had heard of our shore party, 
and, as the delta of the Loajeri and Mogambazi extended 
for about fifteen miles, and withal was the most im- 
passable of plr.ces, being perfectly flat, overgrown with 
the tallest of matete, eschinomense, and thorny bush, 
and flooded with water, it was useless to fatigue our 
men searching for the shore party in such an inhos- 
pitable country. No provisions were procurable, for 
the villages were in a state of semi-starvation, the 
inhabitants living from hand to mouth on what re- 
luctant Fortune threw into their nets. 

The second day of our arrival at Urimba I struck off 
into the interior with my gun-bearer, Kalulu, carrying 
the Doctor's splendid double-barreled rifle (a " Reilly,' 
No. 12), on the search for venison. After walking about 
a mile T came to a herd of zebras. By creeping on all- fours 
I managed to come within one hundred yards of them ; 
but I was in a bad spot — low prickly shrubs ; and tsetse 
flies alighting on the rifle-sight, biting my nose, dashing 
into my eyes, completely disconcerted me ; and, to add 
to my discontent, my efforts to disengage myself from 



576 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

the thorns alarmed the zebras, which all stood facing tne 
suspicious object in the bush. I fired at the breast of 
one, but, as might be expected, missed. The zebras 
galloped away to about three hundred yards off, and ) 
dashed into the open, and, hastily cocking the left-liand 
trigger, aimed at a proud fellow trotting royally before 
his fellows, and by good chance sent a bullet through 
his heart. A fortunate shot also brought down a huge 
goose, which had a sharp horny spur on the fore part 
of each wing. This supply of meat materially con- 
tributed towards the provisioning of the party for the 
transit of the unknown land that lay between us and 
Mrera, in Rusawa, Kawendi. 

It was not until the third day of our arrival at our 
camp at Urimba that our shore party arrived. They 
had perceived our immense flag hoisted on a twenty- 
feet long bamboo above the tallest tree near our camp 
as they surmounted the sharp lofty ridge behind 
Nerembe, fifteen miles off^ and had at first taken it for 
an immense bird; but there were sharp eyes in the 
crowd, and, guided by it, they came to camp, greeted 
as only lost and found men are greeted. 

I suffered from another attack of fever at this camp, 
brought on by the neighborhood of the vile delta, the 
look of which sickened the very heart in me. 

On the 7th January we struck camp, and turned our 
faces eastward, and for me, home ! Yet regretfully ! 
There had been enough happiness and pleasure, and 
pleasantest of social companionship found on the shores 
of the lake for me. I had seen enough lovely scenes 
which, siren-like, invited one to quiet rest ; gentle 
scenes, where there was neither jar nor tumult, neither 
strife nor defeat, neither hope nor disappointment, bu-* 
rest — a drowsy, indolent, yet pleasant rest. And only a 



i 



Jan. 1872.] OUR JOURNET TO UNYANYEMBE, 577 

few drawbacks to these. There was fever ; there were 
no books, no newspapers, no wife of ray own race and 
blood, no theatres, no hotels, no restaurants, no East 
River oysters, no mince-pies, neither buckwheat cakes, 
nor anything much that was good for a cultivated palate 
to love. So, in turning to say farewell to the then 
phicid lake and the gi^at blue mountains, that grew 
bluer as they receded on either hand, I had the conrage 
to utter that awful word tearlessly, and without one 
sigh. 

Our road led up through the valley of the Loajeri, 
after leaving its delta, a valley growing ever narrower, 
until it narrowed into a ravine choked by the now 
roaring, l)ellowing river, whose resistless rush seemed 
to affect the very air we breathed. It was getting 
oppressive, this narrowing ravine, and opportunely the 
road breasted a knoll, then a terrace, then a hill, and 
lastly a mountain, where we halted to encamp. As we 
prepared to select a camping place, the Doctor silently 
pointed forward, and suddenly a dead silence reigned 
everywhere. The quinine which I had taken in the 
morning seemed to affect me in every crevice of my 
brain ; but a bitter evil remained, and, though I 
trembled under the heavy weight of the "Eeilly" 
rifle, I crept forward to where the Doctor was pointing. 
I found myself looking down a steep ravine, on the 
other bank of which a fine buffalo cow was scrambling 
upward. She had just reached the summit, and wa-s 
turning round to survey her enemy, when I succeeded 
in planting a shot just behind the shoulder-blade, and 
close to the spine, evoking from her a deep bellow 
of pain. "She is shot! she is shot!" exclaimed the 
Doctor ; " that is a sure sign you have hit her." And 
the men even raised a shout at the prospect of meat. 

2 p 



678 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, 

A second, planted in her spine, brought her to her 
knees, and a third ended her. We thus had another 
supply of provisions, which, cut up and dried over a 
fire, as the Wangwana are accustomed to do, would 
carry thera far over the unpeopled wilderness before us. 
For the Doctor and myself, we had the tongue, the 
hump, and a few choice pieces salted down, and in a 
few days had prime corned beef. It is not inapt to 
state that the rifle had more commendations bestowed 
on it than the hunter by the Wangwana. 

The next day we continued the march eastward, 
under the guidance of our kirangozi ; but it was evi- 
dent, by the road he led us, that he knew nothing of 
the country, though, through his volubility, he had 
led us to believe that he knew all about Ngondo, 
Yombeh, and Pumburu's districts. When recalled from 
the head of the caravan, we were about to descend 
into the rapid Loajeri, and beyond it were three ranges 
of impassable mountains, which we were to cross in a 
north-north-easterly direction, quite out of our road. 
After consulting with the Doctor, I put myself at the 
head of the caravan, and following the spine of the 
ridge, struck off due east, regardless of how the road 
ran. At intervals a travelled road crossed our path, 
and, after following it a while, we came to the ford of 
the Loajeri. The Loajeri rises south and south-east of 
Kakungu Peak. We made the best we could of the road 
after crossing the river, until we reached the main path 
that runs from Karah to Ngondo and Pumburu, in 
Soutliern Kawendi. 

On the 9th, soon after leaving camp, we left the tra- 
velled path, and made for a gap in the arc of hills 
before us, as Pumburu was at war with the people of 
Manya Msenge, a district of Northern Kawendi. The 



Jan. 1872.] OUR JOURNEY TO UNYANYEMBE. 579 

country teemed with game — the buffaloes and zebrns 
were plentiful. Among the conspicuous trees were tlie 
hyphene and borassus palm trees, and a tree bearing a 
fruit about the size of a 600-pounder cannon-ball, called 
by some natives " mabyah,"* according to the Doctor, 
the seeds of which are roasted and eaten. They are 
not to be recommended as food to Europeans. 

On the 10th, putting myself at the head of my men, 
with my compass in hand, I led the way east for three 
hours. A beautiful park land was revealed to us ; but 
the grass was very tall, and the rainy season, which had 
commenced in earnest, made my work excessively dis- 
agreeable. Through this tall grass, which was as high as 
my throat, I had to force my way, compass in hand, to 
lead the Expedition, as there was not the least sign of a 
road, and we were now in an untravelled country. We 
made our camp on a beautiful little stream flowing 
north ; one of the feeders of the Rugufu Eiver. 

The 11th still saw me plunging through the grass, 
which showered drops of rain on me every time I made 
a step forward. In two hours we crossed a small 
stream, with slippery syenitic rocks in its bed, showing 
the action of furious torrents. Mushrooms were in 
abundance, and very large. In crossing, an old pagazi 
of Unyamwezi, weather-beaten, uttered, in a deplorable 
tone, " My kibuyu is dead ;" by which he meant that 
he had slipped, and in falling had broken his gourd, 
which in Kisawahili is " kibuyu." 

On the eastern bank we halted for lunch, and, after 
an hour and a half's march, arrived at another 
stream, which I took to be the Mtambu, at first, from 
the similarity of the land, though my map informed me 

♦ In the Kisawahili tongue, " mabyah," " mbyah," " byah," meaB 
bad, unpleasant. 



580 ROW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

that it was impossible. The scenery around was very 
similar, and to the north we had sighted a similar 
tabular hill to the " Magdala " Mount I bad discovered 
north of Imrera, while going to the Malagarazi, 
Though we had only travelled three and a half hours 
the Doctor was very tired, as the country was exceedingly 
rough. 

The next day, crossing several ranges, with glorious 
scenes of surpassing beauty everywhere around us, we 
came in view of a mighty and swift torrent, whose bed 
was sunk deep between enormous lofty walls of sand- 
stone rock, where it roared and brawled with the noise 
of a little Niagara. 

Having seen our camp prepared on a picturesque 
knoll, I thought I would endeavor to procure some 
meat, which this interesting region seemed to promise. 
I sallied out with my little Winchester along the banks 
of the river eastward. I travelled for an liour or two, 
the prospect getting more picturesque and lovely, and 
then went up a ravine which looked very promising. 
Unsuccessful, I strode up the bank, and my astonish- 
ment may be conceived when I found myself directly 
in front of an elephant, who had his large broad ears 
held out like studding sails— the colossal monster, the 
incarnation of might of the African world. Methought 
when I saw his trunk stretched forward, like a warning 
finger, that I heard a voice say, " Siste, Yenator !" But 
whether it did not proceed from my imagination )r — 
No; I believe it proceeded from Kalulu, who must have 
shouted, '* Tembo, tembo ! bana yango !" " Lo ! an 
elephant ! an elephant, my master 1" For the young 
rascal had fled as soon as he had witnessed the awful 
colossus in such close vicinage. Recovering from my 
astonishment, I thought it prudent to retire also — 




^ 



Jan. 1872.] UUh JOURNEY TO UNTANYEMBE. 581 

especially with a pea-shooter loaded with treacheroua 
saw^dust cartridges in my hand. As I looked heliind, I 
Baw him waving his trunk, which I understood to 
mean, " Good-bye, young fellow, it is lucky for you 
you went in time, for I was going to pound you to a 
jelly." 

As I was congratulating myself, a wasp darted 
fiercely at me and planted its sting in my neck, and for 
that afternoon my anticipated pleasures were dispelled. 
Arriving at camp I found the men grumbling ; their 
provisions were ended, and there was no prospect for 
three days, at least, of procuring any. With the im- 
providence usual with tbe gluttons, they had eaten 
their rations of grain, all their store of zebra and dried 
buffalo meat, and were now crying out that they were 
famished. 

The tracks of animals were numerous, but it being 
the rainy season the game was scattered everywhere ; 
whereas, had we travelled during tbe dry season 
throuo^h these forests our larders might have been 
supplied fresh each day. 

Some time about 6 p.m., as the Doctor and I were 
taking our tea outside the tent, a herd of elepbants, 
twelve in number, passed about 800 yards off. Our 
fundi, Asmani and Mabruki Kisesa, were immediately 
despatched in pursuit. I would have gone myself 
with the heavy ^'Reilly" rifle, only I was too much 
fatigued. We soon heard their guns firing, and hoped 
they were successful, as a plentiful supply of meat 
might then have been procured, while we ourselve> 
would have secured one of the elephant's feet for a nice 
delicate roast ; but within an hour they returned un- 
successful, having only drawn blood, some of which 
they exhibited to us on a leaf. 



u82 HOW J FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

It requires a very good rifle to kill an African 
elephant. A No. 8 bore with a Fraser's shell, planted 
in the temple, I believe, would drop an elephant each 
shot. Faulkner makes some extraordinary statements, 
about walking up in front of an elephant and planting 
a bullet in his forehead, killing him instantly. The 
tale, however, is so incredible that I would prefer not to 
believe it ; especially when he states that the imprint 
of the muzzle of his rifle was on the elephant's trunk. 
African travellers — especially those with a taste for the 
chase — are too fond of relating that which borders on the 
incredible for ordinary men to believe them. Such 
stories must be taken with a large grain of salt, for 
the sake of the amusement they afford to readers at 
home. In future, whenever I hear a man state how he 
broke the back of an antelope at COO yards, I shall 
incline to believe a cipher had been added by a slip 
of the pen, or attribute it to a typographical error, 
for this is almost an impossible feat in an African forest. 
It may be done once, but it could never be done twice 
running. An antelope makes a very small taiget at 
600 yards distance ; but, then, all these stories belong 
by right divine to the chasseur who travels to Afiica 
for the sake only of sport. I have heard young 
officers on the Zanzibar coast, who were but just past 
tlieir teens, relating with an astonishing glibness and 
volubility the tremendous adventures they had had with 
elephants, leopards, lions, and what not. If they shot 
at a hippopotamus in the river, they had killed him ; if 
they had met an antelope near the coast, it was almost 
sure to be a lion, and they had bowled him over ; if 
they had seen an elephant in a zoological garden, it 
was sure to be told that he had been met in Africa, and 
" bagged, sir, without any trouble ; and I have the tusks 



Jan. 1872.] OUR JOUliNEY TO UNYANYEMBE. 588 

at home now, which I can show, if you Hke, some day." 
It is a disease, a mania with some people, that they 
never can relate the positive, literal, exact truth. Tra- 
velling in Africa is adventurous enough as it is, with- 
out any fiction. Mostly all men who were with the 
Abyssinian Expedition will recollect that wonderful 
*' Major" who was accustomed to unfold the dire, the 
terrible, and the extraordinary, in stories by the bushel. 
1 gave that gentleman one day a buffalo skin which I 
had received from Satanta, chief of the Kiowas, near 
Medicine Lodge, Kansas ; yet the next day I heard it 
given out that he had shot the buffalo on an American 
prairie with a pistol bullet. This is only an illustration 
of the imaginary which many travellers love to relate ; 
it is a tendency with some men to exaggerate. South 
and North African hunters are famous for their variety 
of hunting anecdotes, which I consider to have been 
simply flourishes of the pen. 

On the 13th we continued our march across several 
ridges; and the series of ascents and descents revealed 
to us valleys and mountains never before explored ; 
streams rushing northward, swollen by the rains, and 
grand primeval forests, in whose twilight shade no 
white man ever walked before. 

On the 14th the same scenes were witnessed — an 
unbroken series of longitudinal ridges, parallel one 
with another and with Lake Tanganika. Eastward tlie 
faces of these ridges present abrupt scarps and terraces, 
rising from deep valleys, while the western declivities 
have gradual slopes. These are the peculiar features 
of LTkawendi, the eastern watershed of the Tanganika. 

In one of these valleys on this day we came across a 
colony of reddish-bearded monkeys, whose howls, or 
bellowingj rang amongst the cliffs as they discovered 



584 BOW 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE, 

the caravan. I was not able to approach tliem, foi 
they scrambled up trees and barked tlieir defiance 
at me, tlien bounded to the ground as I still persisted 
in advancing ; and they would have soon drawn me in 
pursuit if I had not suddenly remembered that my 
absence was halting the Expedition. 

About noon we sighted our Magdala — the grand 
towering mount whose upright frowning mass had 
attracted our eyes, as it lifted itself from above the 
plain in all its grandeur, when we were hurrying along 
the great ridge of Kusawa towards the " Crocodile ' 
River. We recognized the old, mystic beauty of the 
tree-clad plain around it. Then it was bleached, and a 
filmy haze covered it lovingly ; now it was vivid green- 
ness. Every vegetable, plant, herb, and tree, had sprung 
into quick life — the effect of the rains. Rivers that 
ran not in those hot summer days now fumed nnd 
rushed impetuously between thick belts of might v tim- 
ber, brawling hoarsely in the glades. We crossed many 
of these streams, all of which are feeders of the Rugufu. 

Beautiful, bewitching Ukawendi ! By what shall I 
gauge the loveliness of the wild, free, luxuriant, spon- 
taneous nature within its boundaries? By anything 
in Eurojie ? No. By anything in Asia ? Where ? 
India, perhaps. Yes ; or say Mingrelia and Imeritla. 
For there we have foaming rivers ; we have pic- 
turesque hillocks; we have bold Ijills, ambitious 
mountains, and broad forests, with lofty solemn rows 
of trees, with clean stiaight stems, thi'ough which you 
can see far, lengthy vistas, as you see here. Only in 
Ukawendi you can almost behold tlie growth of ve- 
getation ; the earth is so generous, nature so kind and 
loving, that without entertaining any aspiration for a 
residence, or a wish to breathe the baleful atmosphere 



Jan. 1872.] OUL JOURNEY TO UNYANYEMBE. 585 

longer than is absolutely necessary, one feels insensibly 
drawn towards it, as the thought creeps into his mind, 
that thougli all is foul beneath tlje captivating, 
glamorous beauty of the land, the foulness might be 
removed by civilized people, and the whole region made 
as healthy as it is productive. Even while staggering 
under the pressure of the awful sickness, with mind 
gel ting more and more embittered^ brain sometimes 
reeling with the shock of the constantly recurring 
fevers — though I knew how the malaria, rising out of 
that very fairness, was slowly undermining my con- 
stitution, and insidiously sapping the powers of mind 
and body — I regarded the alluring face of the land 
with a fatuous love, and felt a certain sadness steal 
over me as each day I was withdrawing myself from it, 
and felt disposed to quarrel with the fate that seemed 
to eject me out of Ukawendi. 

On the ninth day of our march from the shores of 
the Tanganika we again perceived our "Magdala 
Mount/' rising like a dark cloud to the north-east, by 
which 1 knew that we were approaching Imrera, and 
that our Icarian attempt to cross the uninhabited jungle 
of Ukawendi would soon be crowned with success. 
Against the collective counsel of the guides, and hypo- 
thetical suggestions of the tired and hungry souls of 
our Expedition, I persisted in being guided only by 
Ihe compass and my chart. The guides strenuously 
strove to induce me to alter my course and strike in 
a south-west direction, which, had I listened to them, 
would have undoubtedly taken me to South-western 
UkoLongo, or North-eastern Ufipa. The veteran 
and experienced soldiers asked mournfully if I were 
detei mined to kill them with famine, as the rv^ad I 
sliould have taken was north-east; but I preferied 



686 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

r 

putting my trust in the compass. No sun shone upon 
us as we threaded our way through the primeval forest, 
by clumps of jungle, across streams, up steep ridges, 
and down into deep valleys. A thick haze covered the 
forests ; rain often pelted us ; the firmament was an 
unfathomable depth of grey vapor. The Doctor had 
perfect confidence in me, and I held on my way. 

As soon as we arrived at our camp the men scattered 
themselves through the forest to search for food. A 
grove of singwe trees was found close by. Mush- 
rooms grew in abundance, and these sulliced to appease 
the gnawing hunger from which the people suffered. 
Had it not been such rainy weather I should have been 
enabled to procure game for the camp; but tlie fatigue 
which I suffered, and the fever which enervated me, 
utterly prevented me from moving out of the camp 
after we once came to a halt. The fear of lions, which 
were numerous in our vicinity, whose terrible roaring 
was heard by day and by night, daunted the hunters so 
much, that though I offered five doti of cloth for every 
animal brought to camp, none dared penetrate the 
gloomy glades, or av/esonie belts of timber, outside the 
friendly defence of the camp. 

The morning of the tenth day I assured the people 
that we were close to food ; cheered the most amiable 
of them with promise of abundant provender, and 
hushed the most truculent knaves with a warning not 
to tempt my patience too much, lest we came to angry 
blows ; and then struck away east by north through the 
forest, with the almost exhausted Expedition dragging 
itself weakly and painfully behind me. It was a most 
desperate position certainly, and I pitied the poor people 
far more than they pitied themselves; and tho'^gh I 
fumed and stormed in their presence when the;^ were 



Jan. 1872.] OUB JOURNEY TO UNYANYEMBE. 587 

disposed to lie down and give up, never was a man 
further from doing them injury. I was too proud oi 
them ; but under the circumstances it was dangerous — 
nay, suicidal —to appear doubtful or dubious of the road. 
The mere fact that I still held on my way according to 
the Doctor's little pearly monitor (the compass) had a 
grand moral effect on them, and though they de- 
murred in plaintive terms and with pinched faces, they 
followed my footsteps with a trustfulness which quite 
affected me. 

For long miles we trudged over smooth sloping 
sward, with a vision of forest and park-land beauty 
on our right and left, and in front of us, such as is 
rarely seen. At a pace that soon left the main body 
of the Expedition far behind, I strode on with a few 
gallant fellows, who, despite their heavy loads, kept 
pace with me. After a couple of hours we wei'o 
ascending the easy slope of a ridge, which promised 
to decide in a few minutes the truth or the inaccuracy 
of my chart. Presently we ari'ived at the eastern 
edge of the ridge, and about ^\q miles away, and 
1,000 feet below the high plateau on which we stood, 
we distinguished the valley of Imrera ! 

By noon we were in our old camp. The natives 
gathered round, bringing supplies of food, and to con- 
gratulate us upon having gone to Ujiji and returned. 
But it was long before the last member of the Expedi- 
tion arrived. The Doctor's feet weie very sore, and 
bleeding from the weary march. His shoes were in a 
very worn-out state, and he had so cut and slashed them 
with a knife to ease his blistered feet, that any man ol 
our force would have refused -them as a gift, no mattei 
how ambitious he might be to encase his feet li la 
Wasungu, 



588 now I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

Asinani, tlie guide, was very much taken aback vvIkmi 
he discovered that the tiny compass knew the way 
better than he did, and he declared it as his soh^mn 
opinion that it could not lie. He suffered niucli in 
reputation from having contested the pahn with tlie 
" little thing," and ever afterwards his boasted knowledge 
of the country was considerably doubted. 

After halting a day to recruit ourselves, we continued 
our journey on the iSth January, 1872, towards Unya- 
nyenibe. A few miles beyond Imrera, Asmani lost tlie 
road again, and 1 was obliged to show it to him^ by 
which I gained additional honor and credit as a leader 
and guide. My shoes were very bad, and it was diffi- 
cult to decide whose were the worst in condition, the 
Doctor's or mine. A gi-eat change had come upon the 
face of the land since I had passed northward en route 
to Ujiji. The wild grapes now hung in clusters along 
the road ; the corn ears were advanced enough to pluck 
and roast for food ; the various plants shed their flowers ; 
and the deep woods and grasses of the country were 
greener than e\'er. 

On the inth we arrived at Mpokwa's deserted 
village. The Doctor's feet were very much chafed 
and sore by the marching. He had walked on foot all 
the way from Urimba, though he owned a donkey ; 
while I, considerably to my shame be it said, had ridden 
occasionally to husband my strength, that I might be 
enabled to hunt after arrival at camp. 

Two huts were cleared for our use, but, just as we 
had made ourselves comfortable, our sharp-eyed fellows 
had discovered several herds of game in the plain west 
of Mpokwa. Hastily devouring a morsel of corn-bread 
with coffee, I hastened- away, with Bilali for a gun- 
bearer, taking with me the famous Reilly rifle of the 



Jan. 1872.1 OUR JOURNEY TO UNYANYEMBE. 589 

Doctor and a supply of Eraser's shells. After plunging 
through a deep stream, and getting wet again, and 
pushing my way through a dense brake, I arrived at a 
thin belt of forest, through which I was obliged to 
crawl, and, in half an hour, I had arrived within one 
hundred and forty yards of a group of zebras, which were 
playfully biting each other under the shade of a large 
tree. Suddenly rising up, I attracted their attention ; 
but the true old rifle was at my shoulder, and " crack — 
crack " went both barrels, and two fine zebras, a male 
and female, fell dead under the tree where they had 
stood. In a few seconds their throats were cut, and, 
after giving the signal of my success, I was soon sur- 
rouiided by a dozen of my men, who gave utterance tc 
their delight by fulsome compliments to the merits of 
the rifle, though very few to me. When I returned to 
camp with the meat I received the congratulations of 
the Doctor, which I valued far higher, as he knew from 
long experience what shooting was. 

When the eatable portions of the two zebras were 
hung to the scale, we found, according to the Doctor's 
own figures, that we had 719 lbs. of good meat, which, 
divided among forty-four men, gave a little over 16 lbs. 
to each person. Bombay, especially, was very happy, 
as he had dreamed a dream wherein I figured promi- 
nently as shooting animals down right and left ; and, 
when he had seen me depart with that wonderful Reilly 
rifle, he had not entertained a doubt of my success, and, 
accordingly, had commanded the men to be ready to 
go after me, as soon as they should hear the reports of 
the gun. 

The following is quoted from my diary : 
January 20th, 1872. — To-day was a halt. On going 
out for a hunt I saw a herd of eleven giraffes. After 



690 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

crossing Mpokwa stream I succeeded in getting within 
one hundred and fifty yards of one of them, and fired 
at it ; but, though it was wounded, 1 did not succeed in 
dropping it, though I desired the skin of one of them 
very much. 

In the afternoon I went out to the east of the village, 
and came to a herd of six giraffes. I wounded one of 
them, but it got off, despite my efforts. 

What remarkable creatures they are ! How beautiful 
their large limpid eyes ! I could have declared on oath 
that both shots had been a success, but they sheered off 
with the stately movements of a clipper about to tack. 
When they ran they had an ungainly, dislocated 
motion, somewhat like the contortions of an Indian 
nautch or a Theban danseuse — a dreamy, undulating 
movement, w^hich even the tail, with its long fringe of 
black hair, seemed to partake of. 

The Doctor, who knew how to console an ardent but 
disappointed young hunter, attributed my non-success 
to shooting with leaden balls, which were too soft to 
penetrate the thick hide of the giraffes, and advised me 
to melt my zinc canteens w^ith which to harden the 
lead. It was not the first time that I had cause to 
think the Doctor an admirable travelling companion ; 
none knew so well how to console one for bad luck — 
none knew so well how to elevate one in his own mind. 
If I killed a zebra, did not his friend Oswell — the South 
African hunter — and himself long ago come to the 
conclusion that zebra meat was the finest in Africa ? 
If I shot a buffalo cow, she was sure to be the best of 
her kind, and her horns were ^orth while carrying 
home as specimens ; and was she not fat ? If I returned 
without anything, the game was very wild, or the 
people had made a noise, and the gamu had been 



Jan. 1872.J OUR JOURNEY TO UNYANYEMBE. 591 

friglitened ; and who could stalk animals alieadj 
alarmed ? Indeed, he was a most considerate com- 
panion, and, knowing him to be literally truthful, I 
was proud of his praise when successful, and when I 
failed I was easily consoled. 

Ibrahim, the old pagazi whose feelings had been so 
lacerated in Ukawendi, when his ancient kibuyu broke, 
before leaving Ujiji invested his cloth in a slave 
from Manyuema, who bore the name of " Ulimengo," 
which signifies the " World." As we approached 
Mpokwa, UHmeugo absconded with all his master's 
property, consisting of a few cloths and a bag of salt, 
which he had thought of taking to Unyanyembe for 
trade. Ibrahim was inconsolable, and he kept lamenting 
his loss daily in such lugubrious tones that the people, 
instead of sympathizing, laughed at him. I asked him 
why he purchn.=?ed such a slave, and, while he was with 
him, why he did not feed him ? Replied he, tartly, 
" Was he not my slave ? Was not the cloth with which 
I bought him mine ? If the cloth was my own, could I 
not purchase what I liked ? Why do you talk so ?" 

Ibrahim's heart was made glad this evening by the 
return of Uliraengo with the salt and the cloth, and the 
one-eyed old man danced with his great joy, and came 
in all haste to impart to me the glad news. " Lo, the 
* World ' has come back. Sure. My salt and my cloth 
are with him also. Sure." To which I replied, that 
he had better feed him in future, as slaves required 
food as well as their masters. 

From 10 p.m. to midnight the Doctor was employed 
in taking observations from the star Canopus, the result 
of which was that he ascertained Mpokwa, district of 
Utanda, Ukonongo, to be in S. latitude 6° 18' 40", 
On comparing it with its position as laid down in my 



592 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

map by dead reckoning, I found we differed by tliree 
miles; I having laid it down at 6° 15' south latitude. 

The day following was a lialt. The Doctor's feet 
were so inflamed and sore that he could not bear his 
shoes on. My heels were also raw, and I viciously cut 
large circles out of my shoes to enable me to move 
about. 

Having converted my zinc canteens into bullets, and 
provided myself with a butcher and gun-bearer, I set 
out for the lovely park land and plain west of Mpokwa 
stream, with the laudable resolution to obtain some- 
thing ; and seeing nothing in the plain, I crossed over 
a ridge, and came to a broad basin covered with tall 
grass, with clumps here and there of hyphevie palm, 
with a stray mimosa or so scattered about. Nibbling 
off the branches of the latter, I saw a group of giraffes, 
and then began stalking them through the grass, taking 
advantage of the tall grass-grown ant-hills tliat I 
might approach the wary beasts before their great eyes 
could discover me. I contrived to come within 
175 yards, by means of one of these curious hummocks; 
but beyond it no man could crawl witliout being 
observed — the grass was so thin and short. 1 took a 
long breath, wiped my perspiring brow, and sat down 
for a while ; my black assistants also, like myself, were 
almost breathless with the exertion, and the high 
expectations roused by the near presence of the royal 
beasts. I toyed lovingly with the heavy Reilly, saw 
to my cartridges, and then stood up and turned, with 
my rifle ready ; took one good^ long, steady aim ; then 
lowered it again to arrange the sights, lifted it up onco 
more — dropped it. A giraffe half turned his body ; for 
the last time I lifted it, took one quick siglit at the 
region of the heart, and fired. He staggered, reeled, 



Jan. 1872.] OUR JOURNEY TO UNYANYEMBE. 593 

then made a short gallop ; but the blood was spouting 
from the wound in a thick stream, and before he had 
gone 200 yards he came to a dead halt, with his ears 
drawn back, and allowed me to come within twenty 
yards of him, when, receiving a zinc bullet tlirough the 
head, he fell dead. 

'''Allah ho, akhharT cried Khamisi, my butcher, 
fervently, "This is meat, master!' 

I was rather saddened than otherwise at seeing the 
noble animal stretched before me. If I could have 
given him his life back I think I should have done so. 
I thought it a great pity that such splendid animals, so 
well adapted for the service of man in Africa, could 
not be converted to some otl er use than that of food. 
Horses, mules, and donkeys died in these sickly regions; 
but what a blessing for Africa would it be if we 
could tame the giraffes and zebras for (he uses of 
explorers and traders ! Mounted on a zebra, a man 
would be enabled to reach Ujiji in one month from 
Bagamoyo ; whereas it took me over seven months to 
travel that distance ! 

The dead giraffe measured 16 feet 9 inches from his 
right fore-hoof to the top of his head, and was one of 
the largest size, though some have been found to 
measure over 17 feet. He was spotted all over with 
large black, nearly round, patches. 

I left Khamisi in charge of the dead beast, while I 
returned to camp to send off" men to cut it up, and 
convey the meat to our village. But Khamisi climbed 
a tree for fear of the lions, and the vultures settled on 
it, so that when the men arrived on the spot, the eyes, 
the tongue, and a great part of the posteriors were 
eaten up. What remained weighed as follows, when 
brought in and hung to the scales : — 

2 Q 



594 



HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 



1 hind leg 










. 134 IbB. 


1 „ 










. 136 „ 


1 fore leg 










160 „ 


1 » 










. 160 „ 


Eibs . 










158,, 


Neck . 










74 „ 


Eiimp . 










. 87 „ 


Breast . 










46 „ 


Liver . 










20 „ 


Lungs . 










12 „ 


Heart . 










. 6 „ 


Total weight of eatable portions . 


. 993 lbs. 


Skin and head, 181 lbs. 





The three days following I suffered from a severe 
attack of fever, and was unable to stir from bed. I 
applied my usual remedies for it, which consisted oi 
colocynth and quinine ; but experience has shown me 
that an excessive use of the same cathartic weakens its 
effect, and that it would be well for travellers to take 
with them different medicines for clearing the bowels, 
and to cause proper action in the liver, such as colo- 
cynth, calomel, resin of jalap, Epsom salts ; and that 
no quinine should be taken until such medicines shall 
have prepared the system for its reception. 

The Doctor's prescription for fever consists of 3 grains 
of resin of jalap, and 2 grains of calomel, with 
tincture of cardamoms put in just enough to prevent 
irritation of the stomach — made into the form of a piU 
— wdiich is to be taken as soon as one begins to feel the 
excessive languor and weariness which is the sure 
forerunner of the African type of fever. An hour or 
two later a cup of coffee, unsugared, and witliout milk, 
ought to be taken, to cause a quicker action. The 
Doctor also thinks that quinine should be taken with 
the pill; but my experience — though it weighs nothing 



Jan. 1872.] OUR JOURNEY TO UNYANYEMBE. SOC 

against what he has endured — has proved to nie tliat 
quinine is useless until after the medicine has taken 
effect. My stomach could never bear quinine unless 
subsequent to the cathartic. A well-known missionary 
at Constantinople recommends travellers to take 
3 grains of tartar-emetic for the ejection of the bilious 
matter in the stomach ; but the reverend doctor 
possibly forgets that much more of the system is 
disorganized than the stomach ; and though in one or 
two cases of a slight attack, this remedy may have 
proved successful, it is altogether too violent for an 
enfeebled man in Africa. I have treated myself faith- 
fully after this method three or four times ; but I 
could not conscientiously recommend it. For cases of 
urticaria, I could recommend taking 3 grains of tartar- 
emetic ; but then a stomach-pump would answer the 
purpose as well. 

On the 27th we set out for Misonghi. About half- 
way I saw (he head of the Expedition on the run, and 
the motive seemed to be communicated quickly, man 
after man, to those behind, until my donkey commenced 
to kick, and lash behind with his heels. In a second, I 
was made aware of the cause of this excitement, by a 
cloud of wild bees buzzing about my head, three or 
four of which settled on my face, and stung me fright- 
fully. We raced madly for about half a mile, behaving 
in as wild a manner as the poor bestung animals. 

As this was an unusually long march, I doubted if 
the Doctor could march it, because his feet were so 
sore, so I determined to send four men back with the 
kitanda ; but the stout old hero refused to be carried, 
and walked all the way to camp after a march of 
eighteen miles. He had been stung dreadfully in the 
head and in the face ; the bees had settled in handfula 



506 EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

in his hair ; but, after partaking of a cup of warm tea 
and some food, he was as cheerful as if he had never 
travelled a mile. 

At Mrera, Central Ukonongo, we halted a day to 
grind grain, and to prepare the provision we should 
need during the transit of the wilderness between Mrera 
and Manyara. 

On the 31st of January, at Mwara, Sultan Ka-mi- 
rambo, we met a caravan under the leadership of a 
slave of Sayd bin Habib, who came to visit us in our 
camp, which was hidden in a thick clump of jungle. 
After he was seated, and had taken his coffee, I asked, 

" What is tliy news, my friend, that thou hast 
brought from Unyanyembe ?" 

*' My news is good, master." 

" How goes the war ?" 

'' Ah, Mirambo is where ? He eats the hides even. 
He is famished. Sayd bin Habib, my master, hath pos- 
session of Kirira. The Arabs are thimdering at the 
gates of Wilyankuru. Sayd bin Majid, who came from 
Ujiji to Usagozi in twenty days, hath taken and slain 
' Moto ' (Fire), the King. Simba of Kasera hath taken 
up arms for the defence of his fatlier, Mkasiwa of 
Unyanyembe. The chief of Ugunda hath sent five 
hundred men to the field. Ough — Mirambo is where ? 
In a month he will be dead of hunger.'* 

" Grreat and good news truly, my friend." 

" Yes — in the name of God." 

" And whither art thou bound with thy caravan ?" 

" Sayd, the son of Majid, who came from Ujiji, hath 
told us of the road that the white man took, that he 
had arrived at Ujiji safely, and that he was on his way 
back to Unyanyembe. So we have thought that if the 
white man could go there, we could also. Lo, the Arabs 



Jan. 1872.] OUR JOURNEY TO UNYANYEMBE, 597 

come by the hundred by the white man's road, to get 
the ivory from Ujiji." 
" I am that white man." 

'' You r 

-Yes." 

" Why, it was reported that you were dead — that you 
fought with the Wazavira." 

** Ah, my friend, these are the words of Njara, the 
son of Khamis. See" (pointing to Livingstone), " this 
is the white man, my father,* whom I saw at Ujiji. He 
is going with me to Unyanyembe to get his cloth, after 
which he will return to the great waters." 

" Wonderful ! — thou sayest truly." 

** What hast thou to tell me of the white man at 
Unyanyembe ?" 

*^ Which white man ?" 

" The white man I left in the house of Sayd, the son 
of Salim— my house — at Kwihara.'' 

** He is dead." 

" Dead !" 

** True." 

** You do not mean to say the white man is dead?" 

'' True— he is dead." 

** How long ago ?" 

" Many months now." 

"What did he die of?" 

" Homa (fever)." 

" Any more of my people dead ?" 

" I know not." 

" Enough." I looked sympathetically at the Doctor 
and he replied, 

" I told you so. When you described him to me as 

• It is a conrteons custom in Africa to address elderly people af 
"Baba" (Father). 



598 T:0 W 1 FO UNO L 1 VING STONE. 

a drunken man, I knew lie could uot live. Men who 
have been habitual drunkards cannot live in this 
country, any more than men who liave become slaves 
to other vices. I attribute the deatli that occurred in 
my expedition on tlie Zambezi to much the same 
cause.'* 

" Ah, Doctor, there are two of us gone. I shall be 
the third, if this fever lasts much longer." 

" Oh no, not at all. If you would have died from 
fever, you would have died at Ujiji when you had that 
severe attack of remittent. Don't think of it. Your 
fever now is only the result of exposure to wet. I 
never travel during the wet season. This time I have 
travelled because I was anxious, and I did not wish to 
detain you at Ujiji." 

" Well, there is nothing like a good friend at one's 
back in this country to encourage him, and keep his 
spirits up. Poor Shaw ! He was a bad man ; but I 
am sorry — very sorry for him. How many times have 
I not endeavoured to cheer him up ! But there was no 
life in him. And among the last words I said to him, 
before parting, were, ' Eemember, if you return to 
Unyanyembe, you die !' " 

We also obtained news from the chief of Sayd bin 
Habib's caravan that several packets of letters and 
newspapers, and boxes, had arrived for me from Zanzibar 
by my messengers and Arabs ; that Sehm, the son of 
Sheikh Hashid of Zanzibar, was amongst the latest 
arrivals in Unyanyembe. The DocUj. also reminded 
me with the utmost good-nature that, according to his 
accounts, he had a stock of jellies and crackers, soups, 
fish, and potted ham, besides cheese, awaiting him in 
Unyanyembe, and that he would be delighted to share 
his good things ; whereupon I was greatly cheered, and, 



Jan. 1872.] OUR JOURNEY TO UNYANYEMBE. 



599 



during the repeated attacks of fever I suffered about 
this time, my imagination loved to dwell upon the 
luxuries at Unyanyembe. I pictured myself devouring 
the hams and crackers and jellies like a madman. I 
lived on my raving fancies. My poor vexed brain 
rioted on such homely things as wheaten bread and 
butter, hams, bacon, caviare, and I would have thouiiht 
no price too high to pay for them. Though so far away 
and out of the pale of Europe and America, it was 
a pleasure to me, during the terrible state of athumia or 
despondency into which I was plunged by ever- recur- 
ring fevers, to dwell upon tliem. I wondered that 
people who had access to such luxuries should ever get 
sick, and become tired of life. I thought that if a 
wheaten loaf with a nice pat of fresh butter were pre- 
sented to me, I would be able, though dying, to spring 
up and dance a wild fandango. 

Though we lacked the good things of this life above 
named, we possessed salted giraffe and pickled zebra 
tongues; we had ugali made by Hal imah herself ; we 
had sweet potatoes, tea, coffee, dampers, or slap-jacks; 
but I was tired of them. My enfeebled stomach, har- 
roAved and irritated with medicinal compounds, with 
ipecac, colocynth, tartar-emetic, quinine, and such things, 
protested against the coarse food. " Oh, for a wdieaten 
loaf!" my soul cried in agony. " Five hundred dollars 
for one loaf of bread !" 

The Doctor, somehow or another, despite the incessant 
rain, the dew, fog, and drizzle, the marching, and sore 
feet, ate like a hero, and I manfully, sternly, resolved to 
imitate the persevering attention he paid to the welfare 
of his gastric powers ; but I miserably failed. 

Dr. Livingstone possesses all the attainments of a 
traveller. His knowledge is great about everything 



600 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, 

concerning Africa — the rocks, the trees, the fruits, and 
their virtues, are known to him. He is also fall of phi- 
losophic reflections upon ethnological matters. With 
camp-craft, with its cunning devices, he is au fait. Hia 
bed is luxurious as a spring-mattress. Each night he 
has it made under his own supervision. First, ho has 
two straight poles cut, three or four inches in diameter ; 
which are hiid parallel one with another, at the distance 
of two feet ; across these poles are laid short sticks, sap- 
lings, three feet long, and over them is laid a thick pile 
of grass ; then comes a piece of waterproof canvas and 
blankets — and thus a bed has been improvised fit for a 
king. 

It was at Livingstone's instigation I purchased milch 
goats, by which, since leaving Ujiji, we have had a 
supply of fresh milk for our teaaiid coffee three times a 
day. Apropos of this, we are great drinkers of these 
welcome stimulants; we seldom lialt drinking until we 
have each had six or seven cups. We have also been 
able to provide ourselves with music, which, though 
harsh, is better than none. I mean the musical screech 
of parrots from Manyuema. 

Half-way between Mwaru — Kamirambo's village — 
and the deserted Tongoni of Ukamba, I carved the 
Doctor's initials and my own on a large tree, with the 
date February 2nd. I have been twice guilty of this in 
Africa : once when we were famishing in Soutliern 
Uvinza I inscribed the date, my initials, and the 
word " Starving !" in large letters on the trunk of a 
sycamore. 

In passing through the forest of Ukamba, we saw 
the bleached skull of an unfortunate victim to the priva- 
tions of travel. Referring to it, the Doctor remarked 
that he could never pass through an African forest, 



Feb. 1872.] OUB JOURNEY TO UNTANYEMBE. COl 

with its solemn stillness and serenity, without wishing 
to be buried quietly under the dead leaves, where he 
would be sure to rest undisturbed. In England there 
was no elbow-room, the graves were often desecrated ; 
and ever since he had buried his wife in the woods of 
Shupanga he had sighed for just such a spot, where 
his weary bones would receive the eternal rest they 
coveted. 

The same evening, when the tent door was down, 
and the interior was made cheerful by the light of a 
paraffin candle, the Doctor related to me some incidents 
respecting the career and the death of his eldest son, 
Robert. Readers of Livingstone's first book, ' South 
Africa,' without which no boy should be, will probably 
recollect the dying Sebituane's regard for the little boy 
" Robert." Mrs. Livingstone and family were taken to 
the Cape of Good Hope, and thence sent to England, 
where Robert was put in the charge of a tutor ; but 
wearied of inactivity, when he was about eighteen, 
he left Scotland and came to Natal, whence he endea- 
vored to reach his father. Unsuccessful in his attempt, 
he took ship and sailed for New York, and enlisted in 
the Nortliern Army, in a New Hampsliire regiment of 
Yolunteers, discarding his own name of Robert Moffatt 
Livingstone, and taking that of Rupert Vincent, that 
his tutor, who seems to have been ignorant of his duties 
to the youth, might not find him. In one of the battles 
before Richmond, he was conveyed to a North Carolina 
hospital, w^here he died from his wounds. 

On the 7th of February we arrived at the Gombe, 
and camped near one of its largest lakes. This lake is 
probably several miles in length, and swarms witli 
hippopotami and crocodiles. 

From this camp I despatclied Ferajji, the cook, and 



602 now I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

Chowpereh to Unyanyembe, to bring tlie letters and 
medicines that were sent to me from Zauzii)ar, and 
meet us at Ugimda, while the next day we moved to 
our old quarters on the Gombe, where we were first 
introduced to the real hunter's paradise in Central 
Africa. The rain had scattered the greater number of 
the herds, but there was plenty of game in the vicinity. 
Soon after breakfast I took Khamisi and Kalulu with 
me for a hunt. After a long walk we arrived near a 
thin jungle, where I discovered the tracks of several 
animals — boar, antelope, elephant, rhinoceros, hippo- 
potamus, and an unusual number of imprints of the 
lion's paw. Suddenly I heard Khamisi say, " Master, 
master ! here is a * simba 1' (lion) ;" and he came up 
to me trembling with excitement and fear — for the 
young fellow was an arrant coward — to point out the 
head of a beast, which could be seen just above the 
tall grass, looking steadily towards us. It immediately 
afterwards bounded from side to side, but the grass was 
so high that it was impossible to tell exactly what it 
was. Taking advantage of a tree in my front, I crept 
quietly onwards, intending to rest the heavy rifle 
against it, as I was so weak from the effects of several 
fevers that I felt myself utterly incapable of supporting 
my rifle for a steady aim. But my surprise was great 
when I cautiously laid it against the tree, and then 
directed its muzzle to the spot where I had seen him 
stand. Looking further away — to where the grass was 
thin and scant — I saw the animal bound along at a 
gieat rate, and that it was a lion : the noble monarch 
of the forest was in full flight ! From that moment I 
ceased to regard him as the " mightiest among the 
brutes ;" or his roar as anything more fearful in broad 
daylight than a sucking dove's. 



Feb. 1872] OUR JOUBNEY TO UNTANYEMBE, 60c 

Tlie next day was also a bait, and unable to contain 
my longing for tbe cbase, where there used to be such 
a concourse of game of all kinds, soon after morning 
coffee, and after despatching a couple of men with 
presents to my friend Ma-manyara, of ammonia-bottle 
memory, I sauntered out once more for the park. 
Not five hundred yards from the camp, myself and men 
were suddenly halted by hearing in our immediate 
vicinity, probably within fifty yards or so, a chorus of 
roars, issuing from a triplet of lions. Instinctively my 
fingers raised the two hammers, as I expected a general 
onset on me ; for though one lion might fly, it was 
hardly credible that three should. While looking 
keenly about I detected, within easy rifle-shot, a fine 
hartebeest, trembling and cowering behind a tree, as if 
it expected the fangs of the lions in its neck. Though 
it had its back turned to me, I thought a bullet might 
plough its way to a vital part, and without a moment's 
hesitation I aimed and fired. The animal gave a tre- 
mendous jump, as if it intended to take a flying leap 
through the tree ; but recovering itself it dashed through 
the underbrush in a dififei*ent direction from that in 
which I supposed the lions to be, and I never saw it 
again, though I knew I had struck it from the bloody 
trail it left; neither did I see or hear anything more 
of the lions. I searched far and wide over the park 
land for prey of some kind, but was compelled to return 
unsuccessful to camp. 

Disgusted with my failure, we started a little after 
noon for Manyara, at which place we were hospitably 
greeted by my friend, who had sent men to tell me that 
his white brother must not halt in the woods, but must 
come to his village. We received a present of honey 
and food from the chief, which was most welcome to ug 



604 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

in our condition. Here was an instance of that friendlj? 
disposition among Central African chiefs when they 
have not been spoiled by the Arabs, which Dr. Living- 
stone found among the Babisa and Ba-ulungu, and in 
Manyuema. I received the same friendly recognition 
from all the chiefs, from Imrera, in Ukawendi, to Unya- 
nyembe^ as I did from Ma-manyara. 

On the 14th we arrived at Ugunda, and soon after 
we had established ourselves comfortably in a hut 
which the chief lent us for our use, in came Ferajji 
and Chowpereh, bringing with them Sarmian and Uledi 
Manwa Sera, who, it will be recollected, were the two 
soldiers sent to Zanzibar with letters and for medicines 
for Shaw's disease ; and who should Sarmian have in 
charge but the deserter Hamdallah, who decamped at 
Manyara, as we were going to Ujiji. This fellow, it 
seems, had halted at Kigandu, and had informed the 
chief and the doctor of the village that he had been 
sent by the white man to take back the cloth left there 
for the cure of Mabruk Saleem ; and the simple chiei 
had commanded it to be given up to him upon his mere 
word, in consequence of which the sick man had died, 
as well as another that I had left in Unyanyembe. 

Upon Sarmian's arrival in Unyanyembe from Zanzi- 
bar, about fifty days after the Expedition had departed 
for Ujiji, the news he received was that the white man 
(Shaw) was dead ; and that a man called Hamdallah, 
who had engaged himself as one of my guides, but who 
liad shortly after returned, was at Unyanyembe. He 
had left him unmolested until the appearance of Ferajji 
and his companion, when they at once, in a body, made 
a descent on his hut and secured him. With the zeal 
which always distinguished him in my service, Sarmian 
had procured a forked pole, between the prongs of 



Feb. 1872.] OVR JOURNEY TO UNYANYEMBE, 606 

which the neck of the absconder was placed ; and a 
oross stick, firmly lashed, effectually prevented him from 
relieviiig himself of the incumbrance attached to him 
so deftly. 

There were no less than seven packets of letters and 
newspapers from Zanzibar, which had been collecting 
during my absence from Unyanyembe. These had 
been entrusted at various times to the chiefs of cara- 
vans, who had faithfully delivered them at my tembe, 
according to their promise to the Consul. There was 
a packet for me from Dr. Kirk, which contained two or 
three letters for Dr. Livingstone, to whom, of course, 
they were at once transferred, with my congratulations 
that he was not quite forgotten by his friend. In the 
same packet there was also a letter to me from Dr. Kirk, 
requesting me to take charge of Livingstone's goods 
and do the best I could to forward them on to him, 
dated 25th September, 1871, five days after I left 
Unyanyembe on my apparently hopeless task. It also 
contained some wild advice about taking an impossible 
route by way of the Ukerewe Lake, but the tone of the 
letter was good-natured and hearty. 

" Well, Doctor," said I to Livingstone, " the English 
Consul requests me to do all I can to push forward 
your goods to you. I am sorry that I did not get the 
authority sooner, for I should have attempted it ; but in 
the absence of these instructions I have done the best 
I could by pushing you towards the goods. The 
mountain has not been able to advance towards 
Mohammed, but Mohammed has been compelled to 
advance towards the mountain." 

But Dr. Livingstone was too deeply engrossed in his 
own letters from home, which were just a year old. 

I received good and bad news from New York, but 



C06 EOW 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

the good news was subsequent, and wiped out all feeli ugs 
tliat might have been evoked had I received the bad 
only. But the newspapers, nearly a hinidred of them, 
New York, Boston, and London journals, were full of 
most wonderful news. The Paris Commune was in 
arms against tlie National Assembly ; the Tuileries, the 
Louvre, and the ancient city Lutetia Parisiorum had 
been set in flames by the blackguards of Saint-Antoine ! 
Frencli troops massacring and murdering men, women, 
and children ; rampant diabolism, and incarnate revenge 
were at work in the most beautiful city in the world! 
Fair women converted into demons, and dragged by 
ruffianly soldiery through the streets to universal exe- 
cration and pitiless death ; children of tender age pinned 
to the earth and bayoneted ; men, innocent or not, 
shot, cut, stabbed, slashed, destroyed — a whole city 
given up to the suinma injuria of an infuriate, reck- 
less, and brutal army ! Oh, France ! Oh, Frenchmen ! 
Such things are unknown even in the heart of bar- 
'barous Central Africa. We spurned the newspapers 
with our feet ; and for relief to sickened hearts gazed 
on the comic side of our w^orld, as illustrated in the 
innocent pages of * Punch.' Poor * Punch !' good- 
hearted, kindly-natured ' Punch !' a traveller's benison 
on thee ! Thy jokes were as physic ; thy innocent satire 
was provocative of hysteric mirth. 

Our doors were crowded with curious natives, whc 
looked with indescribable wonder at the enormous 
sheets. I heard them repeat the words, " Khabari 
Kisungu " — white man's news — often, and heard them 
discussing the nature of such a quantity of news, and 
expressing their belief that the '* Wasungu " were 
" mbyah sana," and very " mkali ;" by which they 
meant to say that the white men were very wicked, 



Feb. 1872.] OUR JOURNEY TO UNTANYEMBE. 607 

and very smart and clever ; though the term wicked is 
often employed to express high admiration. 

On the fourth day from Ugunda, or the 18th of 
February, and the fifty-third day from Ujiji, we made 
our appearance with flags flying and guns firing in the 
valley of Kwihara, and when the Doctor and myself 
passed through the portals of my old quarters I formally 
welcomed him to Unyanyembe and to my house. Since 
the day I had left tlie Arabs, sick and weary almost 
with my life, but, nevertheless, imbued with the high 
hope that my mission would succeed, one hundred and 
thirty-one days had elapsed — with what vicissitudes of 
fortune the reader well knows — during which time I had 
journeyed over twelve himdred miles. The myth after 
which I travelled through the wilderness proved to be 
a fact ; and never was the fact more apparent than 
when the Living Man walked with me arm in arm to 
my old room, and I said to him, " Doctor, we are at 
last at Home !" 




MAKING THE MOST OF A HALT. 



CHAPTER XYI. 



HOMEWARD BOUND. 

Un"YA.nyembe was now to me a terrestrial Paradise. 
Livingstone was no less happy ; he was in comfortable 
quarters, which were a palace to his hut in Ujiji. Our 
store-rooms were full of the good things of this life, 
besides cloth, beads, wire, and the thousand and one 
impedimenta and paraphernalia of travel witli which I 
had loaded over one hundred and fifty men at Bagamoyo. 
I had seventy-four loads of miscellaneous things, the 
most valuable of which were now to be turned over to 
Livingstone, for his march back to the sources of the 
Nile. 

It was a great day with us when, with hammer and 
chisel, I broke open the Doctor's boxes, that we might 
feast our famished stomachs on the luxuries which were 



Feb. 1872.1 HOMEWARD BOUND. 609 

to redeem us from the effect of the cacotrophic dourra 
and maize food we had been subjected to in the 
wilderness. I conscientiously believed that a diet on 
potted ham, crackers, and jellies would make me as 
invincible as Talus, and that I only required a stout 
flail to be able to drive the mighty Wngogo into the 
regions of annihilation, should they dare even to wink 
in a manner that I disapproved. 

The first box opened contained three tins of biscuits^ 
six tins of potted hams — tiny things, not much larger 
than thimbles, which, when opened, proved to be nothing- 
more than a table-spoonful of minced meat plentifully 
seasoned with pepper : the Doctor's stores fell five 
hundred degrees below zero in my estimation. Next 
were brought out five pots of jam, one of which was 
opened — this was also a delusion. The stone jars 
weighed a pound, and in each was found a little over a 
tea-spoonful of jam. Verily, we began to think our 
hopes and expectations had been raised to too high a 
pitch. Three bottles of curry were next produced — but 
who cares for curry ? Another box was opened, and 
out tumbled a fat dumpy Dutch cheese, hard as a brick, 
but sound and good ; though it is bad for the liver in 
Unyamwezi. Then another cheese was seen, but this 
was all eaten up — it was hollow, and a fraud. The 
third box contained nothing but two sugar-loaves ; the 
fourth, candles ; the fifth, bottles of salt, Harvey, 
Worcester, and Reading sauces, essence of anchovies, 
pepper, and mustard. Bless me ! what food were these 
for the revivifying of a moribund such as I was ! The 
sixth box contained four shirts, two pairs of stout shoes, 
some stockings and shoe-strings ; which dehghted the 
Doctor so much when he tried them on that he ex- 
claimed, " Richard is himself again !" " That man," 

2 R 



610 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

said I, " whoever he is, is a friend, indeed." " Yes, 
that is my friend, Waller." 

The five other boxes contained potted meat and «oups ; 
hut the twelfth, containing one dozen bottles of medicinal 
brandy, was gone ; and a strict cross-examination of 
Asmaiii, the head man of Livingstone's caravan, eUcited 
the fact, that not only was one case of brandy missiiig, 
but also two bales of cloth and four bags of the most 
valuable beads in Africa — sami-sami — which are as gold 
with the natives. 

I was grievously disappointed after the stores had 
been examined ; everything proved to be deceptions in 
my jaundiced eyes. Out of the tins of biscuits, when 
opened, there w^as only one sound box; the whole of 
which would not make one full meal. The soups — who 
cared for meat soups in Africa ? Are there no bullocks, 
and sheep, and goats in the land, from which far better 
isoup can be made than any that was ever potted ? 
Peas, or any other kind of vegetable soup, would have 
been a luxury; but chicken and game soups! — what 
nonsense ! 

I then overhauled my own stores. I found some 
fine old brandy and one bottle of champagne still left ; 
though it was evident, in looking at the cloth bales, 
that dishonesty had been at work ; and some person 
happened to suggest Asmani — the head man sent by 
Dr. Kirk in charge of Livingstone's goods— as the 
guilty pai'ty. Upon his treasures being examined, I 
found eight or ten colored cloths, with the mark of 
my own agent at Zanzibar on them. As he was unable 
to give a clear account of how they came in his box, 
they were at once confiscated, and distributed among 
the most deserving of the Doctor's people. Some of 
the watchmen also accused him of having entered into 



Feb. 1872.J HOMEWARD BOUND. 611 

iny store-room, and of having abstracted two or three 
gorah of domestics from my bales, and of having, 
some days afterwards, snatched the keys from the hands 
of one of my men, and broken them, lest other people 
might enter, and find evidences of his guilt. As Asniani 
was proved to be another of the " moral idiots," Living- 
stone discharged hira on the spot. Had we not have 
arrived so soon at Unj'anyembe, it is probable tliat the 
entire stock sent from Zanzibar had in time disappeared. 

Unyanyembe being rich in fruits, grain, and cattle, 
we determined to have our Christmas dinner over 
again in style, and, being fortunately in pretty good 
health, I was enabled to superintend its preparation. 
Never was such prodigality seen in a tembe of Unya- 
mwezi as was seen in ours, nor were ever such delicacies 
provided. 

There were few Arabs in Unyanyembe when we 
arrived, as they were investing the stronghold of 
Mirambo. About a week after our return, " the little 
mannikin," Sheikh Sayd bin Salim — El Wali — who 
was the commander-in-chief of their forces, came to 
Kwihara from the front. But the little Sheikh was 
in no great hurry to greet the man he had wronged 
so much. As soon as we heard of his arrival we took 
the opportunity to send men immediately after the 
goods which were forwarded to the Wall's care soon 
after Livingstone's departure for Mikindany Bay. The 
first time we sent men for them the governor declared 
himself too sick to attend to such matters, but the second 
day they were surrendered, with a request that the 
Doctor would not be very angry at their condition, as 
the white ants had destroyed everything. 

The stores this man had detained at Unyanyembe 
were in a most sorry state. The expenses were prepaid 



312 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, 

for their carriage to Ujiji, but the goods had been 
purposely detained at this place by Sayd biu Salim 
since 18(i7 that he might satisfy his appetite for liquor, 
and probably fall heir to two valuable guns that were 
known to be with them. The white ants had not only 
eaten up bodily the box in which the guns were packed, 
but they had also eaten the gunstocks. The barrels 
were corroded, and the locks were quite destroyed. 
The brandy bottles, most singular to relate, had also 
fallen a prey to the voracious and irresistible destroyers 
— the white ants — and, by some unaccountable means, 
they had imbibed the potent Hennessy, and replaced 
the corks with corn-cobs. The medicines had also 
vanished, and the zinc pots in which they had been 
sijugly packed up were destroyed by corrosion. Two 
bottles of brandy and one small zinc case of medicines 
only were saved out of the otherwise utter wreck. 

I also begged the Doctor to send to Sheikh Sayd, and 
ask him if he had received the two letters despatched 
by him upon his first arrival at Ujiji for Dr. Kirk and 
Lord Clarendon ; and if he had forwarded them to the 
coast, as he was desired to do. The reply to the 
messengers was in the affirmative ; and, subsequently, 
I obtained the same answer in the presence of the 
Doctor. 

On the 22nd of February, the pouring rain, which 
had dogged us the entire distance from Ujiji, ceased, and 
we had now beautiful weather ; and while I prepared for 
the homeward march, the Doctor was busy writing his 
letters, and entering his notes into his journal, which I 
was to take (o his family. When not thus employed, 
we paid visits to the Arabs at Tabora, by whom we 
were both received with that bounteous hospitality for 
which they are celebrated. 



Feb. 1872.] 



EOMEWABD BOUND. 



6i;f 



Among the goods turned over by me to Dr. Living- 
stone, while assorting such cloths as I wished to retain 
for my homeward trip, were — 



First-class American sheeting 

„ Kaniki (blue stuff) 

Medium „ (blue stuff) 

„ Dabwani cloth 

Barsati cloths 

Printed handkerchiefs 

Medium Eehani cloth. 

„ Ismahili „ 

„ Sohari „ 

4 pieces fine Kunguru ^ red check) 

4 gorah Eehani 



Total number of cloths 



Dotl 




Yards. 


285 


= 


1140 


16 


= 


64 


60 


= 


240 


41 


=r 


164 


28 


= 


112 


70 


.= 


280 


127 


= 


508 


20 


= 


80 


20 


= 


80 


22 


=: 


88 


8 


1= 


32 


697 


= 


2788 



Besides : — 

Cloth, 2788 yards. 

Assorted beads, 16 sacks, weight = 992 lbs. 

Brass wire, Nos. 5 and 6, 10 fraslilah = 350 lbs. 

1 canvas tent, waterproof. 

1 air-bed. 

1 boat (canvas). 

1 bag of tools, carpenter's. 

1 rip saw. 

2 barrels of tar. 

12 sheets of ship's copper = 60 lbs. 
Clothes. 

1 Jocelyn breech-loader (metallic cartridge). 
1 Starr's „ „ „ 

1 Henry (16-shooter) „ „ 

1 revolver. 
200 rounds revolver ammunition. 
2000 „ Jocelyn and Starr's ammunition. 
1500 „ Henry rifle ammunition. 

Cooking utensils, medicine chest, books, sextant, canvas 
bags, &c., &c., &c. 

The above made a total of about forty loads. Many 
things in the list would have brought fancy prices in 



614 EOW J FOUND LIVINGSTON t. 

Unyanyerabe, especially the carbines and ammamtion, 
the saw, carpenter's tools, the beads, and wire. Out of 
the thirty-three loads which were stored for him in 
my tembe — the stock sent to Livingslone, Nov. 1, 
1870 — but few of them would be available for his 
return trip to Rua and Manyuema. The Gdij doti 
of cloth which were left to him formed the only 
marketable articles of value he possessed ; and in 
Manyuema, where the natives manufactured their own 
cloth, such an article would be considered a drug ; 
while my beads and wire, with economy, would suffice 
to keep him and his men over two years in those 
regions. His own cloth, and what I gave him, made 
in the aggregate 1,393 doti, which, at 2 doti per day 
for food, were sufficient to keep him and sixty men 696 
days. He had thus four years' supplies. The only 
articles he lacked to make a new and completely fitted- 
up expedition were the following, a list of which he and 
I drew up : — 

A few tins of American wheat-flour. 

„ „ soda crackers. 

„ „ preserved fruits. 

„ ,, sardines. 

„ „ salmon. 
10 lbs. Hyson tea. 
Some sewing thread and needles. 
1 dozen oflBcial envelopes. 
Nautical Almanac for 1872 and 1873. 
1 blank journal. 
1 chronometer, stopped. 
1 chain for refractory people. 

With the articles just named he would have a 
total of seventy loads, but without carriers they were 
an incumbrance to him ; for, with only the nine 
men which he now had, he could go nowhere with 



Fkb. 1872.] HOMEWABD BOUND. Girj 

such a splendid assortment of goods. 1 was there- 
fore commissioned to enHst, — as soon as T reached 
Zanzibar,— fifty freemen, arm them with a gun and 
hatchet each man, besides accoutrements, and to 
purchase two thousand bullets, one thousand flints, 
and ten kegs of gunpowder. The men were to act as 
carriers, to follow wherever Livingstone might desire 
to go. For, without men, he was simply tantalized 
with the aspirations roused in him by the knowledge 
that he had abundance of means, which were totally 
^irreahzable without earners. Ail the wealth of London 
and New York piled before him were totally unavail- 
able to him without the means of locomotion. No 
Mnyamwezi engages himself as carrier during w\ar-time. 
You who have read the diary of my ' Life in Un3^a- 
nyembe' know what stubborn Conservatives the Wanya- 
mwezi are. A duty lay yet before me w^hich I owed 
to my illustrious companion, and that was to hurry to 
the coast as if on a matter of life and death— act for 
him in the matter of enlisting men as if he were there 
himself — to work for him with the same zeal as I would 
for myself — not to halt or rest until his desires should 
be gratified. And this I vowed to do ; but it was a 
death-blow to my project of going down the Nile, and 
getting news of Sir S. Baker. 

The Doctor's task of writing his letters was ended. 
He delivered into my hand twenty letters for Great 
Britain, six for Bombay, two for New Yoik, and one 
for Zanzibar. The two letters for New York were for 
James Gordon Bennett, Junior, as he alone, not his 
father, was responsible for the Expedition sent under 
my command, I beg the reader's pardon for repub- 
lishing one of these letters here, as its spirit and style 



616 EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

indicate the man, the mere knowledge of whose life oi 
death was worth a costly Expedition : — 

Ujiji, on Tanganika, 
East Africa, November, 1871. 

James Gordon Bennett, Jr., Esq. 

My dear Sir — It is in general somewhat difficult to write to one 
we have never seen — it feels so much like addressing an abstract idea 
— but the presence of your representative, Mr. H. M. Stanley, in this 
distant region takes away the strangeness I should otherwise have 
felt, and in writing to thank you for the extreme kindness that 
prompted you to send him, I feel quite at home. 

If I explain the forlorn condition in which he foimd me you will 
easily perceive that I have good reason to use very strong expressions 
of gratitude. I came to Ujiji off a tramp of between four hundred 
and five hundred miles, beneath a blazing vertical sun, having been 
baffled, worried, defeated and forced to return, when almost in sight 
of the end of the geographical part of my mission, by a number of 
half-caste Moslem slaves sent to me from Zanzibar, instead of men. 
The sore heart made still sorer by the woeful sights I had seen of 
man's inhumanity to man raclfcd and told on the bodily frame, and 
depressed it beyond measure. I thought that I was dying on my feet. 
It is not too much to say that almost every step of the weary sultry 
way was in pain, and I reached Ujiji a mere ruckle of bones. 

There I found that some five hundred pounds' sterling worth of 
goods which I had oi'dered from Zanzibar had unaccountably been 
entrusted to a drunken half-caste Moslem tailor, who, after squander- 
ing them for sixteen months on the way to Ujiji, finished up by 
selling ofi" all that remained for slaves and ivory for himself. He 
had "divined" on the Koran and found that I was dead. He had 
also written to the Governor of Unyanycmbe that ho had sent slaves 
after me to Manyuema, who returned and reported my decease, and 
begged permission to sell off the few goods that his drunken appetite 
had spared. 

He, however, knew perfectly well, from men who had seen me, that 
I was alive, and waiting for the goods and men ; but as for morality, 
he is evidently an idiot, and there being no law here except that of 
the dagger or musket, I had to sit down in great weakness, destitute 
of everything save a few barter cloths and beads, which I had taken 
the precaution to leave here in case of extreme need. 

The near prospect of beggary among Ujijians made me miserabla 



Fkb. 1872.] HOMEWARD BOUND. 617 

I could not despair, because I laughed so much at a friend wlio, on 
reaching the mouth of the Zambezi, said that ho was tempted tc 
despair on breaking the photograph of his wife. We could have no 
Buccess after that. Afterward the idea of despair had to me such a 
strong smack of the ludicrous that it was out of the question. 

Well, when I had got to about the lowest verge, vague rumors of 
an English visitor reached me. I thought of myself as the man who 
went down from Jerusalem to Jericho ; but neither priest, Levite nor 
Samaritan could possibly pass my way. Yet the good Samaritan was 
close at hand, and one of m}'- people rushed up at the top of his 
speed, and. in great excitement, gasped out, " An Englishman coming ! 
I see him !" and off he darted to meet him. 

An American flag, the first ever seen in these parts, at the head of 
a caravan, told me the nationality of the stranger. 

I am as cold and non-demonstrative as we islanders are usually 
reputed to be ; but your kindness made my frame thrill. It was, in 
deed, overwhelming, and I said in my soul, " Let the richest blessings 
descend from the Highest on you and yours !" 

The news Mr. Stanley had to tell was thrilling. The mighty 
political changes on the Continent; the success of the Atlantic cables; 
the election of (xeneral Grant, and many other topics riveted my 
attention for days together, and had an immediate and beneficial 
effect on my health I had been without news from home for years 
save what I could glean from a few ' Saturday Eeviews ' and 
'Punch' of 1868. The appetite revived, and in a week I began to 
feel strong again. 

Mr. Stanley brought a most kind and encouraging despatch from 
Lord Clarendon (whose loss I sincerely deplore), the first I have 
received from the Foreign Office since 1866, and information that the 
British Government had kindly sent a thousand pounds sterling to my 
aid. Up to his arrival I was not aware of any pecuniary aid. I came 
unsalaried, but this want is now happily repaired, and 1 am anxious 
that you and all my friends should know that, though uncheered by 
letter, I have stuck to the task which my friend Sir Eoderick 
Murchison set me with " John Bullish " tenacity, believing that all 
would come right at last. 

The watershed of South Central Africa is over seven hundred 
miles in length. The fountains thereon are almost innumerable — 
that is, it would take a man's lifetime to count them. From the 
watershed they converge into four large rivers, and these again into 
two mighty streams in the great Nile valley, which begins in ten 
degrees to twelve degrees south latitude. It was long ere light 



G18 now I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

dawned on the ancient problem and gave me a clear idea ol the 
drainage. I had to feel my way, and every step of the way, and tvas, 
generally, groping in the dark — for who cared where the rivers ran? 
" We drank our fill and let the rest run by." 

The Portuguese who visited Cazembe asked for slaves and ivory, 
and heard of nothing else. I asked about the waters, questioned and 
cross-questioned, until I was almost afraid of being set down as 
afflicted with hydrocephalus. 

My last work, in which I have been greatly hindered from want of 
suitable attendants, was following the central line of drainage down 
through the country of the cannibals, called Manyuema, or, shortly, 
Manyema. This line of drainage has four large lakes in it. The 
foui'th I was nei^r when :»bligod ti> turn. It is from cks to three 
miles broad, and never can be reached at any point, or at any time of. 
the year. Two western drains, the Lufira, or Bar tie Frere's River, 
flow into it at Lake Kamolondo. Then the great River Lomame 
flows through Lake Lincoln into it too, and seems to form the 
western arm of the Nile, on which Petherick traded. 

Now, I knew about six hundred miles of the watershed, and 
unfortunately the seventh hundred is the most interesting of the 
whole ; for in it, if I am not mistaken, four fountains arise from an 
earthen mound, and the last of the four becomes, at no great distance 
off, a large river. 

Two of these run north to Egypt, Lufira and Lomame. and two 
run south into inner Ethiopia, as the Leambaye, or Upper Zambezi, and 
the Kaful. 

Are not these the sources of the Nile mentioned by the Secretary 
of Minerva, in the city of Sais, to Herodotus ? 

I have heard of them so often, and at great distances off, that 1 
cannot doubt their existence, and in spite of the sore longing for 
home that seizes me every time I think of my family, I wish to finish 
up by their rediscovery. 

Five hundred pounds sterling worth of goods have again un- 
accountably been entrusted to slaves, and have been over a year on 
the way, instead of four months. I must go where they lie at your 
expense, ere I can put the natural completion to my work. 

And if my disclosures regarding the terrible Ujijiau slavery should 
lead to the suppression of the East Coast slave trade, I shall regard 
that as a greater matter Dy far than the discovery of all the Nile 
sources together. Now that you have done with domestic slavery for 
ever, lend us your powerful aid toward this great object. This fine 
oountry is blighted, as with a curse from above, in order that th j 



Feb. 1872.] HOMEWARD BOUND. B19 

slavery privileges of the petty Saltan of Zanzibar may not be in- 
fringed, and the rights of the Crown of Portugal, which arc mythical, 
should be kept iii abeyance till some future time when Africa will 
become another India to Portuguese slave-tradei-s. 

I conclude by again thanking you most cordially for your great 
generosity, and am, 

Gratefully yours, 

DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 



To the above letter I have nothing to add — it speaks 
for itseH^; but I then thought it was the best evidence of 
my success. For my own part, I cared not one jot or 
tittle about his discoveries, except so far as it concerned 
the newspaper which commissioned me for the " search." 
It is true I felt curious as to the result of his travels ; but, 
since he confessed that he had not completed what he 
had begun, I felt considerable delicacy to ask for more 
than he could afford to give. His discoveries were the 
fruits of his own labors — to him they belonged — by 
their publication he hoped to obtain his reward, w^hich 
he desired to settle on his children. Yet Livingstone had 
a higher and nobler ambition than the mere pecuniary 
sum he would receive : he followed the dictates of duty. 
Never was such a willing slave to that abstract virtue. 
His inclinations impelled him home, the fascinations of 
which it required the sternest resolves to resist. With 
every foot of new ground he travelled over he forged a 
chain of sympathy which should hereafter bind the 
Christian nations in bonds of love and charity to the 
Heathen of the African tropics. If he were able to 
complete this chain of love — by actual discovery and 
description ot them to embody such peoples and nations 
as still live in darkness, so as to attract the good and 
charitable of his own land to bestir themselves for their 



620 BOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

redemption and salvation — this, Livingstone would con- 
sider an ample reward. " A delirious and fatuous enter- 
prise, a Quixotic scheme !" some will say. Not it, my 
friends ; for as sure as the sun shines on both Christian 
and Infidel, Civilized and Pagan, the day of enlighten- 
ment will come ; and, though the Apostle of Africa may 
not behold it himself, nor we younger men, nor yet oui 
children, the Hereafter will see it, and posterity will 
recognise the daring pioneer of its civilization. 

The following items are extracted in their entirety 
from my Diary : 

March \2th. — The Arabs have sent me as many as 
forty-five letters to carry to the coast. I am turned 
courier in my latter days ; but the reason is that no 
regularly organized caravans are permitted to leave 
Unyanyembe now, because of the war with Mirambo. 
Wliat if I had stayed all this time at Unyanyembe 
waiting for the war to end ! It is my opinion that the 
Arabs will not be able to conquer Mirambo under nine 
months yet. 

To-night the natives have gathered themselves to- 
gether to give me a farewell dance in front of my 
house. I find them to be the pagazis of Singiri, chief 
of Mtesa's caravan. My men joined in, and, captivated 
by the music despite myself, I also struck in, and per- 
formed the *^ light fantastic," to the intense admiration 
of ray braves, who were delighted to see their master 
unbend a little from his usual stiffness. 

It is a wild dance altogether. The music is lively, 
and evoked from the sonorous sound of four drums, 
which are arranged before the bodies of four men, who 
stand in the centre of the weird circle. Bombay, as ever 
comical, never so much at home as when in the dance 



March, 1872.] HOMEWARD BOUND. 621 

of tlie Mrinia, has my water-bucket on his head ; 
Chowpereh — the sturdy, the nimble, sure-footed Chow- 
pereh — has an axe in his hand, and wears a goatskin on 
his head ; Baraka has ray bearskin, and handles a 
spear ; Mabruki, the " Bull-headed," has entered into 
the spirit of the thing, and steps up and down Hke a 
solemn elephant ; Ulimengo has a gun, and is a fierce 
Drawcansir, and you would imagine he was about to do 
battle to a hundred thousand, so ferocious is he in 
appearance ; Khamisi and Kamna are before the drum- 
mers, back to back, kicking up ambitiously at the stars ; 
Asmani, — the embodiment of giant strength, — a tower- 
ing Titan, — has also a gun, with which he is dealing 
blows in the air, as if he were Thor, slaying myriads 
with his hammer. The scruples and passions of us all 
are in abeyance ; we are contending demons under the 
heavenly light of the stars, enacting only the part of a 
weird drama, quickened into action and movement by 
the appalling energy and thunder of the drums. 

The warlike music is ended, and ano flier is started. 
The choragus has fallen on his knees, and dips his head 
two or three times in an excavation in the ground, and 
a choir, also on their knees, repeat in dolorous tones the 
last words of a slow and solemn refrain. The words 
are literally translated : — 

Choragus. Oh-oh-oh I the white man is going home I 

Choir. Oh-oh-oh ! going home ! 

Going home, oh-oh-oh I 

CJioragus. To the happy island on the sea, 

Where the beads are plenty, oh-oh-oh I 

Choir, Oh-oh-oh ! where the beads are plenty, 
Oh-oh-oh ! 



6'J2 EOW I FOUND LIVING bTONK. 

CJioragus. While Singiri has kept us, oh, very long 
From our homes very long, oh-oh-oh I 

Choir. From our homes, oh-oh-oh ! 

Oh-oh-oh ! 

Choragus. And we have had no food for very long— 
We are half-starved, oh, for so long 
Bana Singiri ! 

Choir. For so very long, oh-oh-oh ! 

Bana Singiri-Singiri ! 

Singiri I oh, Singiri ! 

Choragus. Mirambo has gone to war 

To fight against the Arabs ; 
The Arabs and Wangwana 
Have gone to fight Mirambo I 

Choir. Oh-oh-oh ! to fight Mirambo ! 

Oh, Mirambo ! Mirambo I 
Oh, to fight Mirambo ! 

Choragm. But the white man will make us glad. 

He is going home ! For he is going homo, 
And he will make us glad ! Sh-sb-sh ! 

Choir. The white man will make us glad ! Sh-sh-sh I 

Sh sh-h-h sh-h-h-h-h h I 

Um-m— mu — um-m-m — sh ! 

This is the singular farewell which I received from 
the Wanyamwezi of Singiri, and for its remarkable 
epic beauty, rhythmic excellence, and impassioned force, 
I have immortalized it in the pages of my book, as 
one of the most wonderful productions of tiie chorus - 
loving children of Unyamwezi. 

March 13th. — The last day of my stay with Living- 
stone has come and gone, and the last night we shall 
be together is present, and I cannot evade the morrow ! 
I feel as though I would rebel against the fate which 
drives me away from him. The minutes beat fast, and 



Mabch, 1872.] HOMEWAJW JiOUSl). 623 

grow into hours. Our door is closed, and we are both 
of us busy with our own thoughts. What his thoughts 
are I know not. Mine are sad. My days seem to 
have been spent in an Elysian field ; otherwise, why 
should I so keenly regret the near approach of the 
parting hour ? Have I not been battered by successive 
fevers, prostrate with agony day after day lately ? 
Have I not raved and stormed in madness? Have I 
not clenched my fists in fury, and fought with the wild 
strength of despair when in delirium ? Yet, I regret 
to surrender the pleasure I have felt in this mans 
society, though so dearly purchased. And I cannot 
resist the suie advance of time, which flies this night 
as if it mocked me, and gloated on the misery it 
created ! Be it so ! How many times have I not 
suffered the pang of parting with friends ! I wished 
to linger longer, but the inevitable would come — Fate 
sundered us. This is the same regretful feeling, only 
it is more poignant, and the farewell may be for ever ! 
For ever ? And ^' for ever," echo the reverberations 
of a woful whisper. 

I have noted down all he has said to-night ; but the 
reader shall not share it with me. It is mine ! 

I am jealous as he is himself of his Journal ; and I 
have written in German text, and in round hand, on 
either side of it, on the waterproof canvas cover, 
"Positively not to re opened;" to which he has 
affixed his signature. I have stenographed every word 
he has said to me respecting the equable distribution 
of certain curiosities among his friends and children, 
and his last wish about " his dear old friend, Sir 
Koderick Murchison," because he has been getting 
anxious about him ever since we received the news- 



624 EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

papers at Uguiida, when we read that the old man wafe 
suffering from a paralytic stroke. 1 must be sure to 
send him the news, as soon as 1 get to Aden ; and 1 
have promised that he will receive tlie message from 
me quicker than anything was ever received in Central 
Africa. 

" To-morrow night, Doctor, you will be alone !" 

" Yes ; the house will look as though a death had 
taken place. You had better stop until the rains, 
whicli are now near, are over." 

" I would to God I could, my dear Doctor ; but every 
day I stop here, now that there is no necessity for me 
to stay longer, keeps you from your work and home." 

" I know ; but consider your health — you are not 
fit to travel. What is it ? Only a few weeks longer. 
You will travel to the coast just as quickly when the 
rains are over as you will by going now. The plains 
will be inundated between here and the coast." 

" You think so ; but I will reacli the coast in forty 
days ; if not in forty, I will in hfty — certain. The 
thought that I am doing you an important service will 
spur me on." 

March lith, — At dawn we were up, the bales and 
baggage were taken outside of the building, and the 
men ju-epared themselves for the first march towards 
home. 

We had a sad breakfast together. I could not eat, 
my heart was too full ; neither did my companion 
seem to have an appetite. We found something 
to do which kept us longer together. At 8 o'clock 
I was not gone, and I had thought to have been off 
at 5 A.M. 

" Doctor," said I, '' I will leave two men with you, 



March, 1872.] HOMEWARD BOUND, 62b 

who will stop to-day and to-morrow with you, for it 
maybe that you have forgotten something in the luirry 
jf my departure. I will halt a day at Tura, on the 
frontier of Unyamwezi, for your last word, and your 
last wish ; and now we must part — there is no help for 
it. Good-bye." 

" Oh, I am coming with you a little way. I must 
see you off on the road." 

" Thank you. Now, my men. Home ! Kirangozi, 
lift the flag, and March !" 

The house looked desolate — it faded from our view. 
Old times, and the memories of my aspirations and 
kindling hopes, came strong on me. The old hills 
round about, that I once thought tame and uninteresting, 
had become invested with histories and reminiscences 
for me. On that burzani I have sat hour after hour, 
dreaming, and hoping, and sighing. On that col I stood, 
watching the battle and the destruction of Tabora. 
Under that roof I have sickened and been delirious, and 
cried out like a child at the fate that threatened my 
mission. Under that banian tree lay my dead comrade 
— poor Shaw ! I would have given a fortune to have 
had him by my side at this time. From that house I 
started on my journey to Ujiji ; to it I returned as to a 
friend, with a newer and dearer companion ; and now 
I leave all. Already it all appears like a strange 
dream. 

We walked side by side ; the men lifted their voices 
in a song. I took long looks at Livingstone, to 
impress his features thoroughly on my memory. 

" The thing is, Doctor, so far as I can understand 
it, you do not intend to return home until you have 
satisfied yourself about the 'Sources of the Nile/ 

2 s 



626 now I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, 

When yon have satisfied yourself, you will come home 
and satisfy others. Is it not so ?'' 

" That is it, exactly. When your men come back, I 
shall immediately start for Ufipa ; then, crossing the 
Rungwa River, I shall strike south, and round the 
extremit}^ of the Tanganika. Then, a south-east course 
will take me to Chicumbi's, on the Luapula. On cross- 
ing the Luapula, I shall go direct west to the copper- 
mines of Katanga. Eight days south of Katanga, the 
natives declare the fountains to be. Wlien I have 
found them, I shall return by Katanga to the under- 
ground houses of Rua. From the caverns, ten days 
north-east will take me to Lake Kamolondo. I shall 
be able to travel from the lake, in your boat, up the 
River Lufira, to Lake Lincoln. Then, coming down 
again, I can proceed north, by the Lualaba, to the 
fourth lake — which, I think, will explain the whole 
problem ; and I will probably find that it is either 
Chowambe (Baker's lake), or Piaggia's lake." 

** And how long do you think this little journey will 
take you ?" 

" A year and a half, at the furthest, from the day I 
leave Unyanyembe." 

" Suppose you say two years ; contingencies might 
arise, you know. It will be well for me to hire these 
new men for two years ; the day of their engagement 
to begin from their arrival at Unyanyembe." 

" Yes, that will do excellently well.' 

*' Now, my dear Doctor, the best friends must 
part. You have come far enough ; let me beg of you 
to turn back." 

" Well, I will say this to you : you have done what 
few men could do — far better than some great travellers 



Mabch, 1872.] HOMEWARD BOUND. 62? 

1 know. And I am grateful to you for what you have 
done for me. God guide you safe home, and bless you, 
my friend." 

"And may God bring you safe back to us all, ray 
dear friend. Farewell !" 

" Farewell !" 

We wrung each other's hands, and I had to tear 
myself away before I unmanned myself; but Susi, and 
Chumah, and Hamoydah — the Doctor's faithful fellows 
— they must all shake and kiss my hands before I could 
quite turn away. I betrayed myself! 

" Good-bye, Doctor — dear friend !" 

" Good-bye !" 

*' March ! Why do you stop ? Go on ! Are you 
not going home ?" And my people were driven before 
me. No more weakness. I shall show tliem such 
marching as will make them remember me. In forty 
days I shall do what took me three months to perform 
before. 

My friendly reader, I wrote the above extracts in my 
Diary on the evening of each day. I look at them now 
after six months have passed away ; yet I am not ashamed 
of them ; my eyes feel somewhat dimmed at the recollec- 
tion of the parting. I dared not erase, nor modify what I 
had penned, while my feelings were strong. God grant 
that if ever you take to travelling in Africa you will get 
as noble and true a man for your companion as David 
Livingstone ! For four months and four days I lived 
with him in the same house, or in the same boat, or in 
the same tent, and I never found a fault in him. I am 
a man of a quick temper^ and often without sufficient 
cause, I dare say, have broken ties of friendship ; but 
with Livingstone I never had cause for resentment, but 



628 now I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

each day's life with him added to ray admiration for 
him. 

I am not going to inflict on the reader a repetition of 
onr march back, except to record certain incidents which 
occurred to us as we journeyed to the coast. 

March 17 th, — We came to the Kwalah River, which 
a native of Rubuga called Nyahuba, and another Unya- 
huha. Tlie first rain of the Masika season fell on this 
day ; I shall be mildewed before I reach the coast. 
Last year's Masika began at Bagamoyo, March 23rd, 
and ended 30th April. 

The next day I halted the expedition at Western 
Tura, on the Unyamwezi frontier^ and on the 20th 
arrived at Eastern Tura ; when, soon after, we heard a 
loud report of a gun, and Susi and Hamoydah, tho 
Doctor's servants, with Uredi, and another of my men, 
appeared with a letter for " Sir Thomas MacLear, 
Observatory, Cape of Grood Hope," and one for 
myself, which read as follows : — 

" KwiHARA, March 15, 1872. 

" Deak Stanley, 

" If you can telegraph, on your arrival in 
London, be particular, please, to say how Sir Roderick 
is. You put the matter exactly yesterday, when you 
said that I was ' not yet satisfied about the Sources ; 
but as soon as I shall be satisfied, T shall return and 
give satisfactory reasons fit for other people.' This is 
just as it stands. 

'^ I wish I could give you a better word than the 
Scotch one to * put a stout heart to a stey brae ' — (a 
steep ascent) — for you will do that ; and I am thankful 
that, l>efore going away, the fever had changed 



March, 1872.] HOMEWARD BOUND. 621) 

into the intermittent, or safe form. I would not liave 
let you go, but with great concern, had you still been 
troubled with the continued tj[)e. I feel comfortable 
in commending you to tlie guardianship of the good 
Lord and Father of all. 

" I am gratefully yours, 

" David Livixgstone. 

*' I have worked as hard as I could copying obser- 
vations made in one line of march from Kabuire, back 
again to Cazembe, and on to Lake Bangweolo, and am 
quite tired out. My large figures fill six sheets of fools- 
cap, and many a day will elapse ere I take to copying 
again. I did my duty when ill at Ujiji in 1860, and 
am not to blame, though they grope a little in the dark 
at home. Some Arab letters have come, and I forward 
them to you. " D. L. 

" March 16, 1872. 

" P.S. — I have written a note this morning to Mr, 
Murray, 50, Albemarle Street, the publisher, to help 
you, if necessary, in sending the Journal by book 
post, or otherwise, to Agnes. If you call on him you 
will find him a frank gentleman. A pleasant journey 
to you. 

" David LrvixGSTONE. 

" To Henry M. Stanley, Esq., 

Wherever he may be found." 

Several Wangwana arrived at Tura to join our re- 
turning Expedition, as they were afraid to pass through 
Ugogo by themselves ; others were reported coming ; 
but as all were sufficiently warned at Unyanyembe that 



630 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

the caravan would take place positively on the 14th, 
I was not disposed to wait longer. 

As we were leaving Tura, on the 21st, Susi and 
Hanioydah were sent back to the Doctor, while we con- 
tinued our march to Nghwhalah River. 

Two days afterwards we arrived before the village of 
Ngaraiso, into which the head of the caravan attempted 
to enter, but the angry Wakimbu forcibly ejected them. 

On the 24th, we encamped in the jungle, in what 
is called the " tongoni," or clearing. It was a most 
romantic place, as may be gathered from the sketch 
on page 609. 

This region was at one period in a most flourishing 
state ; the soil is exceedingly fertile ; the timber is 
large, and would be valuable near the coast ; and, what 
is highly appreciated in Africa, there is an abundance 
of water. We camped near a smooth, broad hump of 
syenite, at one end of which rose, upright and grand, a 
massive square rock, which towered above several small 
trees in the vicinity ; at the other end stood up another 
singular rock, which was loosened at the base. 

The members of the Expedition made use of the great 
sheet of rock to grind their grain ; a common proceed- 
ing in these lands where villages are not near, or when 
the people are hostile. 

On the 27th of March we entered Kiwyeh. At dawn, 
when leaving Mdaburu River, the solemn warning had 
been given that we were about entering Ugogo ; and as 
we left Kaniyaga village, with trumpet-like blasts of 
the guide's horn, we filed into the depths of an expanse 
of rustling Indian corn. The ears were ripe enough for 
parching and roasting, and thus was one anxiety dis- 
pelled by its appearance ; for generally, in early March, 



March, 1872.] HOMEWARD BOUND. ^ 631 

cai'avans suffer from famine, which overtakes both 
natives and strangers. 

We soon entered the gum-tree districts, and we knew 
we were in Ugogo. The forests of this country 
are chiefly composed of the gum and thorn species — 
mimosa and tamarisk, with often a variety of wild fruit 
trees. The grapes were plentiful, though they were not 
quite ripe ; and there was also a round, reddish fruit 
with the sweetness of the SuJtana grape, with leaves 
like a gooseberry-bush. There was another about the 
size of an apricot, which was excessively bitter. 

Emerging from the entangled thorn jungle, the 
extensive settlements of Kiwyeh came into view ; and 
to the east of the chiefs village we found a camping 
place under the shade of a group of colossal baobab. 

The population of Kiwyeh is composed of Wakimbu 
md Wagogo, iu about equal j)roportions. Old Kiwyeh, 
who lived in the days of S[)eke and Grant, is dead, and 
his young son ici^ns oxer the (hstrict. Though the 
young man's dominiiui is laii' to the eye, and his loyal 
subjects number their cattle by hundi-eds, yet his position 
is a precarious one, for his extreme youtli offers great 
temptations to the Wagogo chiefs about him. 

We had baiely encanqjed when we heard the boom- 
ing, bellowing war horns sounding everywhere, and 
we espied messengeis darting swiftly in every direc- 
tion giving the alarm of war. When first informed 
that the horns were calling the people to arm them- 
selves, and prepare for w^ar, I half suspected that an 
attack was about to be made on the Expedition ; but the 
words '' Urugu, warugu " — (thief! thieves !) — bandied 
about, declared the cause. Mukondoku, the chief of the 
populous district two days to the north-east, where we 



U32 ^ now I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

experienced some excitement when westward-bound, 
was marching to attack the young Mtemi, Kiwyeh, and 
Kiwyeh's soldiers were called to the fight. The men 
rushed to their villages, and in a shoit time we saw 
them arrayed in full fighting costume. Feathers of the 
ostrich and the eagle waved over their fronts, or the 
mane of the zebra surrounded their heads ; their knees 
and ankles were hung with little bells ; joho robes 
floated behind, from their necks ; spears, assegais, knob- 
sticks, and bows were flourished over their beads, or 
lield in their right hands, as if ready for hurling. On 
each flank of a large body which issued fiom the prin- 
cipal village, and which came at a uniform swinging 
double-quick, the ankle and knee bells all cliiniing in 
admirable unison, were a cloud of skirmishers, consist- 
ing of the most enthusiastic, who exerc'ised lliemselves 
in mimic war as they sped along. Cohunn after 
column, companies, and groups from every village 
hurried on past our camp until, probably, there w^ere 
nearly a thousand soldiers gone to the war. This scene 
gave me a better idea than anything else of the weak- 
ness of even the largest caravans which travelled be- 
tween Zanzibar and Unyanyembe. 

At night the warriors returned from the forest ; the 
alarm proved to be without foundation. At first it 
was generally re23orted that the invaders were Wahehe, 
or the Wadirigo, as that tribe are scornfully called from 
their thieving propensities. The Wahehe frequently 
make a foray upon the fat cattle of Ugogo. They 
travel from their own country in the south-east, and 
advance through the jungle, and, when about to ap- 
proach the herds, stoop down, covering their bodies 
with theii- shields of bull-hide. Havino" arrived beiweon 



Makch, 1872.] HOMEWARD BOUND. 633 

the cattle and the hcrdsmeu, they suddenly rise up 
and begin to switch the cattle heartily, and, having 
started them off into the jungle in the care of men 
already detailed for the work, they turn about, and 
plant their shields before them, to fight the aroused 
shepherds. 

On the 30th we arrived at Khonze, which is remark- 
able for the mighty globes of foliage which the giant 
sycamores and baobabs put forth above the plain. The 
chief of Khonze boasts of four tembes, out of which he 
could muster in the aggregate fifty armed men ; yet 
this fellow, instigated by the Wanyamwezi residents, 
prepared to resist our advance, because I only sent him 
three doti — twelve yards of cloth — as honga. 

We were halted, waiting the return of a few friendly 
Wagogo travellers who had joined us, and who were 
asked to assist Bombay in the negotiation of the tribute, 
when the Wagogo returned to us at breathless speed, and 
shouted out to me, " Why do you halt here ? Do 
you wish to die? These pagans will not take the 
tribute, but they boast that they will eat up all your 
cloth." 

The renegade Wanyamwezi who had married into 
Wagogo families were always our bane in this country. 
As the chief of Khonze came up I ordered the men to 
load their guns, and I loaded my own ostentatiously in 
his presence, and then strode up to him, and asked if 
he had come to take the cloth by force, or if he were 
going to accept quietly what I would give him. As 
the Mnyamwezi who caused this show of hostilities was 
beginning to speak, I caught him by the throat, and 
threatened to make his nose flatter if he attempted to 
speak again in my presence, and to shoot him first, il 



634 HOW I FOUND LIVINGS! ONE, 

we should be forced to fight. The rascal was theu 
pushed away into the refir. The chief, who was highly 
amused with this proceeding, laughed loudly at the 
discomfiture of the parasite, and in a short time he 
and I had settled the tribute to our mutual satisfaction, 
and we parted great friends. The Expedition arrived 
at Sanza that night. 

On the 31st we came to Kamyenyi, to tlie great 
Mtemi — Magomba's— whose son and heir is Mtundu 
M gondeh. As we passed by the tembe of the great 
Sultan, the msagira, or chief counsellor, a pleasant grey- 
haired man, was at work making a thorn fence around 
a patch of young corn. He greeted the caravan with 
a sonorous " Yambo," and, putting himself at its head, 
he led the way to our camp. When introduced to me 
he was very cordial in his manner. He was offered a 
kiti — stool — and began to talk very affably. He re- 
membered my predecessors, Burton, Speke, and Grant, 
very well ; declared me to be much younger than any 
of them ; and, recollecting that one of the white men 
used to drink asses' milk (Burton ?), offered to procure 
me some. The way I drank it seemed to give him 
very great satisfaction. 

His son, Unamapokera, was a tall man of thirty or 
thereabouts, and he conceived a great friendship for 
me, and promised that the tribute should be very light, 
and that he would send a man to show me the way to 
Myumi, which was a village on the frontier of Kanyenyi, 
by which I would be enabled to avoid the rapacious 
Kisewah, who was in the habit of enforcing large 
tribute from caravans. 

AVith the aid of Unamapokera and his father, we 
cortrived to be mulcted very lightly, for we only paid 



April, 1872.] 



HOMEWARD BOUND. 



635 



ten doti, while Burton was compelled to pay sixty doti, 
or two hundred and forty yards of cloth. 

On the 1st of April, rising early, we reached Myumi, 
after a four hours' march ; then plunged into the 
jungle, and, about 2 p.m., arrived at a large ziwa, or 
pond, situate in the middle of the jungle , and on the 
next day, at 10 a.m., reached the fields of Mapanga. 
We were passing the village of Mapanga to a resting- 




UNAMAPOKERA. 



place beyond the village, where we might breakfast and 
settle the honga, when a lad rushed forward to meet 
us, and asked us where we were going. Having 
received a reply that we were going to a camping-place, 
he hastened on ahead, and presently we heard him 
t;)lkin,a; to some men in a field on our right. 

In the meantime, we had found a comfortable shady 



(336 HOW 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

place, and had come to a halt ; the men were lecllning 
on the ground, or standing up near their respective 
loads ; Bombay was about opening a bale, when we 
heard a great rush of men, and loud shouts, and, hnme- 
diately after, out rushed from the jungle near by a 
body of forty or fifty armed men, who held their spears 
above their heads, or were about to draw their bows, 
with a chief at their head, all uttering such howls of 
rage as only savages can, which sounded like a long- 
drawn " Hhaat-uh — Hhaat — uhh-uhh," \\ hich meant, 
unmistakably, "You will, will you? No, you will 
not !" — at once determined, defiant, and menacing. 

I had suspected that the voices I heard boded no 
good to us, and I had accordingly prepared my weapons 
and cartridges. Verily, what a fine chance for adven- 
ture this was ! One spear flung at us, or one shot fired 
into this minatory mob of savages, and the opposing 
bands had been plunged into a fatal conflict ! There 
would have been no order of battle, no pomp of war, 
but a murderous strife, a quick firing of breech-loaders, 
and volleys from flint-lock muskets, mixed with the 
flying of spears and twanging of bows, the cowardly 
running away at once, pursued by yelping savages; 
and who knows how it all would have terminated ? 
Forty spears against forty guns — but how many guns 
would not have decamped ? Perhaps all, and I should 
have been left with my boy gun-bearers to have my 
jugular deliberately severed, or to be decapitated, 
leaving my head to adorn a tall pole in the centre of a 
Kigogo village, like poor Monsieur Maizan s at Dege la 
Mhora, in Uzaramo. Happy end of an Expedition ! 
And the Doctor's Journal lost for ever — the fruits ol 
six years' labor ! 



April, 1872.] EOMEWABD BOUND. 637 

But in this land it will not do to fight unless driven 
to the very last extremity. No belligerent Mungo Park 
can be successful in Ugogo unless he has a sufficient 
force of men with him. With ^yq hundred Euro|)eans 
I could traverse Africa from north to soutli, by tact, 
and the moral effect that such a force would inspire. 
Yery little fighting would be required. 

Without rising from the bale on which I was seated, 
I requested the kirangozi to demand an explanation of 
their furious hubbub and threatening aspect ; — if they 
were come to rob us. 

"No," said the chief; "we do not want to stop the 
road, or to rob you ; but we want the tribute." 

" But don't you see us halted, and the bale opened 
to send it to you ? We have come so far from your 
village that after the tribute is settled we can proceed 
on our way, as the day is yet young." 

The chief burst into a loud laugh, and was joined by 
ourselves. He evidently felt ashamed of his conduct ; 
for he voluntarily offered the explanation, that as he 
and his men were cutting wood to make a new fence 
for his village, a lad came up to him, and said that a 
caravan of Wangwana were about passing through the 
country without stopping to explain who they were. 
We were soon very good friends. He begged of me 
to make rain for him, as his crops were su tiering, and 
no rain had fallen for months. I told him that though 
white people were very great and clever people, much 
superior to the Arabs, yet we could not make rain. 
Though very much disappointed, he did not doubt my 
statement, and after receiving his honga, which was 
very light, he permitted us to go on our way, and 
even accompanied us some distance to show us the road 



638 EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, 

At 3 P.M. we entered a thorny jungle ; and by 5 p.m. 
we had arrived at Muhalata, a district lorded over by 
the chief Nyamzaga. A Mgogo, of whom I made a 
friend, proved very stanch. He belonged to Mulowa, 
a country to the S.S.E., and south of Kulabi ; and was 
active in promoting my interests by settling the tribute, 
with the assistance of Bombay, for me. When, on the 
next day, we passed through Kulabi on our way to 
Mvumi, and the Wagogo were about to stop us for the 
honga, he took upon himself the task of relieving us 
from further toll, by stating we were from Ugogo or 
Kanyenyi. The chief simply nodded his head, and we 
passed on. It seems that the Wagogo do not exact 
blackmail of those caravans who intend only to trade 
in their own country, or have no intention of passing 
beyond their own frontier. 

Leaving Kulabi, we traversed a naked, red, loamy 
plain, over which the wind from the heights of Usagara, 
now rising a bluish-black jumble of mountains in our 
front, howled most fearfully. With clear, keen, in- 
cisive force, the terrible blasts seemed to penetrate 
through and through our bodies, as though we were 
but filmy gauze. Manfully battling against this mighty 
** peppo " — storm — we passed through Mukamwa's, and 
crossing a broad sandy bed of a stream we entered the 
territory of Mvumi, the last tribute-levying cliief ol 
Ugogo. 

The 4th of April, after sending Bombay and my 
friendly Mgogo with eight doti, or thirty-two yards of 
cloth, as a farewell tribute to the Sultan, we struck off 
through the jungle, and in five hours we were on the 
borders of the wilderness of "Marenga Mkali''— the 
" hard/' bitter or brackish, water. 



April, 1872.] HOMEWAHD BOUND. 639 

From our camp I despatched three men to Zanzibar 
with letters to the American Consul, and telegraphic 
despatches for the ' Herald,' with a request to the Consul 
that he would send the men back with a small case 
or two containing such luxuries as hungry, worn-out, 
and mildewed men would appreciate. The three mes- 
sengers were charged not to halt for anything — rain or 
no rain, river or inundation — as if they did not hurry 
up we should catch them before they reached the coast. 
With a fervent " Inshallah, ban a," they departed. 

On the 5th, with a loud, vigorous, cheery " Hurrah !" 
we plunged into the depths of the wilderness, which, 
with its eternal silence and solitude, was far preferable 
to the jarring, inharmonious discord of the villages 
of the Wagogo. For nine hours we held on our 
way, starting with noisy shouts the fierce rhinoceros, 
the timid qungga, and the herds of antelopes which 
crowd the jungles of this broad salina. On the 7th, 
amid a pelting rain, we entered Mpwapwa, where my 
Scotch assistant, Farquhar, died. 

We had performed the extraordinary march of 338 
English statute miles from the 14th of March to the 
7th of April, or within twenty- four days, inclusive of 
halts, which was a little over fourteen miles a day. 

Leukole, the chief of Mpwapwa, with whom I left 
Farquhar, gave the following account of the death of 
the latter : — 

" The white man seemed to be improving after you 
left him, until the fifth day, when, while attempting 
to rise and walk out of his tent, he fell back ; from 
that minute he got worse and worse, and in the after- 
noon he died, like one going to sleep. His legs and 
abdomen had swollen considerably, and something, I 



640 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

think, broke within him when he fell, for he cried out 
like a man who was very much hurt, and his servant 
said, ' The master says he is dying.' 

*' We had him carried out under a large tree, and 
after covering him with leaves there left him. His 
servant took possession of his things, his rifle, clothes, 
and blanket, and moved off to the tembe of a Mnya- 
mwezi, near Kisokweh, where he lived for three months, 
when he also died. Before he died he sold his master s 
rifle to an Arab going to Unyanyembe for ten doti 
(forty yards of cloth). That is all I know about it." 

He subsequently showed me the hollow into which 
the dead body of Farquhar was thrown, but I could not 
find a vestige of his bones, though we looked sharply 
about that we might make a decent grave for them. 
Before we left Unyanyembe fifty men were employed 
two days carrying rocks, with which I built up a solid 
enduring pile around Shaw's grave^ eight feet long and 
five feet broad, which Dr. Livingstone said would last 
hundreds of years, as the grave of the first white man 
who died in Unyamwezi. But though we could not 
discover any remains of the unfortunate P'arquhar, we 
collected a large quantity of stones, and managed to 
raise a mound near the banks of the stream to com- 
memorate the spot where his body was laid. 

It was not until we had entered the valley of the 
Mukondokwa River that we experienced anything like 
privation or hardship from the Masika. Here the 
torrents thundered and roared ; the river was a mj'ghty 
brown flood, sweeping downward with an almost resist- 
less flow. The banks were brimful, and broad nullahs 
were full of water, and the fields were inundated, and still 
the rain came surging down in a shower that warned us 



APKI^ 1872.] HOMEWARD BOUND. 641 

of what we might expect during our transit of the 
sea-coast region. Still we urged our steps onward 
like men to whom every moment was precious — as if a 
deluge was overtaking us. Three times we crossed 
this awful flood at the fords by means of ropes tied to 
trees from bank to bank, and arrived at Kadetamare 
on the 11th, a most miserable, most woe-begone set of 
human beings ; and camped on a hill opposite Mount 
Kibwe, which rose on the right of the river — one of the 
tallest peaks of the range. 

On the 12th of April, after six hours of the weariest 
march I had ever undergone, we arrived at the mouth 
of the Mukondokwa Pass, out of which the river 
debouches into the Plain of Makata. We knew that 
it was an unusual season, for the condition of the 
country, though bad enough the year before, was as 
nothing compared to this year. Close to the edge of 
the foaming, angry flood lay our route, dipping down 
frequently into deep ditches, wherein we found ourselves 
sometimes up to the waist in water, and sometimes up 
to the throat. Urgent necessity impelled us onward, 
lest we might have to camp at one of these villages 
until the end of the monsoon rains ; so we kept on, over 
marshy bottoms, up to the knees in mire, under jungly 
tunnels dripping with wet, then into sloughs arm-pit 
deep. Every channel seemed filled to overflowing, yet 
down the rain poured, beating the surface of the river 
into yellowish foam, pelting us until we were almost 
breathless. Half a day's battling against such diffi- 
culties brought us, after crossing the river, once again 
to the dismal village of Mvumi. 

We passed the night fighting swarms of black 
and voracious mosquitoes, and in heroic endeavors to 

2 T 



642 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, 

win repose in sleep, in which we were partly successful, 
owing to the utter weariness of our bodies. 

On the 1 3th we struck out of the village of Mvumi. 
It had rained the whole night, and the morning brought 
no cessation. Mile after mile we traversed, over fields 
covered by the inundation, until we came to a branch 
river-side once again, where the river was narrow, 
and too deep to ford in the middle. We proceeded 
to cut a tree down, and so contrived that it should 
fall right across the stream. Over this fallen tree the 
men, bestriding it, cautiously moved before them their 
bales and boxes; but one young fellow, Rojab — 
through over-zeal, or in sheer madness — took up the 
Doctor's box which contained his letters and Journal 
of his discoveries on his head, and started into the 
river. I had been the first to arrive on the opposite 
bank, in order to superintend the crossing, when I 
caught sight of this man w^alking in the river with 
the most precious box of all on his head. Suddenly 
he fell into a deep hole, and the man and box 
went almost out of sight, while I was in an agony 
at the fate which threatened the despatches. Fortu- 
nately, he recovered himself and stood up, while I 
shouted to him, with a loaded revolver pointed at his 
head, " Look out ! Drop that box, and I'll shoot 

you." 

All the men halted in their work w^hile they gazed 
at their comrade who was thus imperilled by bullet 
and flood. The man himself seemed to regard the 
pistol with the greatest awe, and after a few desperate 
efforts succeeded in getting the box safely ashore. As 
the articles within were not damaged, Rojab escaped 
punishment, with a caution not to touch the box again 



April, 1872.] HOMEWARD BOUND. 648 

on any account, and it was transferred to tlie keeping 
of the sure-footed and perfect pagazi, Maganga. 

From this stream, in about an hour, we came to the 
main river, but one look at its wild waters was enough. 
We worked hard to construct a raft, but after cntting 
down four trees and lashing the green logs together, and 
pushing them into the whirling current, we saw tliem 
sink like lead. We then tied togetlier all the strong 
rope in our possession, and made a line 180 feet long, 
with one end of which tied round his body, Chowpereh 
was sent across to lash it to a tree. He was carried far 
down the stream, but being an excellent swimmer he 
succeeded in his attempt. The bales were lashed around 
the middle, and, heaved into the stream, were dragged 
through the river to the opposite bank, as well as the 
tent, and such things as could not be injured much by 
the water. Several of the men, as well as myself, were 
also dragged through the water; each of the boys being 
attended by the best swimmers ; but when we came to 
the letter- boxes and valuables, we could suggest no 
means to take them over. Two camps were accordingly- 
made, one on each side of the stream ; the one on the 
bank which I had just left occupying an ant-hill of 
considerable height ; while my party had to content 
itself with a flat, miry marsh. An embankment of 
soil, nearly a foot high, was thrown up in a circle 
thirty feet in diameter, in the centre of which my tent 
was pitched, and around it booths were erected. 

It was an extraordinary and novel position that we 
found ourselves in. Within twenty feet of our* camp 
was a rising river, with flat, low banks ; above us was a 
gloomy, weeping sky ; surrounding us on three sides 
was an immense forest, on whose branches we heard 



344 now I FOUND LTVJNO STONE. 

the constant, pattering rain ; beneath our feet was a 
great depth of mud, black and loathsome ; add to these 
the thought that the river might overflow, and sweep 
us to utter destruction. 

In the morning the river was still rising, and an 
inevitable doom seemed to hang over us. There was 
yet time to act — to bring over the people, with the most 
valuable effects of the Expedition — as I considered Dr. 
Livingstone's Journal and letters, and my own papers, 
of far greater value than anything else. While looking 
at the awful river an idea struck me that I might pos- 
sibly carry the boxes across, one at a time, by cutting 
two slender poles, and tying cross sticks to them, making 
a kind of hand-barrow, on which a box might" rest 
when lashed to it. Two men swimming across, at the 
same time holding on to the rope, with the ends of the 
poles resting on the men's shoulders, I thought, would 
be enabled to convey over a 70 lb. box with ease. In a 
short time one of these was made, and six couples of 
the strongest swimmers were prepared, and stimulated 
with a rousing glass of stiff grog each man, with a 
promise of cloth to each also if they succeeded in 
getting everything ashore undamaged by the water. 
When I saw with what ease they dragged themselves 
across, the barrow on their shoulders, 1 wondered that 
I had not thought of the plan before. Within an hour 
after the first couple had gone over, the entire Expedition 
was safe on the eastern bank ; and at once breaking 
camp, we marched north through the swampy forest, 
which in some places was covered with four feet of water. 
Seven hours' constant splashing brought us to Eehen- 
neko, after experiencing several queer accidents. We 
were now on the verge only of the inundated plain of 



April, 1872.] HOMEWARD BOUND, 646 

the Makata, which, even with the last year's rain, was 
too horrible to think of undertaking again in cold blood. 

We were encamped ten days on a hill near Rehenneko, 
or until the 25th, when, the rain having entirely ceased, 
we resolved to attempt the crossing of the Makata. 
The bales of cloth had all been distributed as presents 
to the men for their work, except a small quantity which 
I retained for the food of my own mess. 

But we should have waited a month longer, for the 
inundation had not abated four inches. However, after 
we once struggled up to our necks in water, it was 
useless to turn back. For two marches of eight hours 
each we plunged through slush, mire, deep sloughs, 
water up to our necks, and muddy cataclysms, swam 
across nullahs, waded across gullies, and near sunser, 
of the second day arrived on the banks of the 
Makata River. My people are not likely to forget that 
night; not one of them was able to sleep until it was 
long past midnight, because of the clouds of mosquitoes, 
which threatened to eat us all up; and when tlie horn 
sounded for the march of another dav there was not one 
dissentient amongst them. 

It was 5 A.M. when we began the crossing of tlie 
Makata River, but beyond it for six miles stretched one 
long lake, the waters of which flowed gently towards 
the Wami. This was the confluence of the streams : 
four rivers were here gathered into one. The native>: 
of Kigongo warned us not to attempt it, as the water 
was over our heads ; but I had only to give a hint tc 
the men, and we set on our way. Even the water - 
we were getting quite amphibious — was better than \\w. 
horrible filth and piles of decaying vegetation which 
were swept against the boma of the village. 



G46 BOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

We were soon up to our armpits, then the water 
shallowed to the knee, then we stepped up to the neck^ 
and waded on tiptoe, supporting the children above 
the water ; and the same experiences occurred as 
those which we suffered the day before, until we were 
halted on the edge of the Little Makata, which raced 
along at the rate of eight knots an hour ; but it was 
only fifty yards wide, and beyond it rose a high bank, 
and dry park lands which extended as far as Simbo. We 
had no other option than to swim it ; but it was a slow 
operation, the current was so swift and strong. Activity 
and zeal, high rewards, presents of money, backed by 
the lively feeling that we w^ere nearing home, worked 
wonders, and in a couple of hours we were beyond the 
Makata. 

Cheery and hopeful, we sped along the dry, smooth 
path that now lay before us, with the ardor and 
vivacity of heroes, and the ease and power of veterans. 
We rolled three ordinary marches into one that day, 
and long before night arrived at Simbo. 

On the 29th we crossed the Ungerengeri, and as we 
came to Simbamwenni — the "Lion City" of Useguhha 
— lo ! what a change ! The flooded I'iver had swept 
the entire front wall of the strongly- walled city away, 
and about fifty houses had been destroyed by the torrent. 
Villages of Waruguru, on the slopes of the Uruguru 
Mountains — Mkambaku range — had also suffered dis- 
afctrously. If one-fourth of the reports we heard 
were true, at least a hundred people must have pe- 
rished. 

The Sultana had fled, and the stronghold of Kisa- 
bengo was no more ! A deep canal that he had caused 
to be excavated when alive, to bring a branch of the 



^BiL, 1872.] HOMEWARD BOUND. G47 

Dngerengeri near his city — which was his glory and 
boast— proved the ruio of Simbamwenni. After the 
destruction of the place the river had formed a new 
bed, about 300 yards from the city. But what asto- 
nished us most were the masses of debris wliich seemed 
to be piled everywhere, and the great numbers of trees 
that were prostrate ; and they all seemed to lie in the 
same direction, as if a strong wind had come from the 
south-west. The aspect of the Ungerengeri valley was 
completely changed — from a Paradise it was converted 
into a howling waste. 

We continued our march until we reached Ulagalla, 
and it was evident, as we advanced, that an unusual 
storm had passed over the land, for the trees in some 
places seemed to lie in swathes. 

A most fatiguing and long march brought us to 
Mussoudi, on the eastern bank of the Ungerengeri ; 
but long before we reached it we realized that a terrific 
destruction of human life and property had occuired. 
The extent and nature of the calamity may be imagined, 
when I state that nearly one kindred villages, 
according to Mussoudi's report, were swept away. 

Mussoudi, the Diwan, says that the inhabitants had 
gone to rest as usual — as they had done ever since he 
had settled in the valley, twenty-five years ago — when, 
in the middle of the night, they heard a roar like many 
thunders, which woke them up to the fact tliat death was 
at work in the shape of an enormous volume of water, 
that, like a wall, came down, tearing the tallest trees 
with it, carrying away scores of villages at one iell, 
sure swoop into utter destruction. The scene six days 
after the event — when the river has subsided into its 
normal breadth and depth during the monsoons — is 
simply awful. Wherever we look, we find something 



648 EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

very suggestive of the devastation that has visited the 
country ; fields of corn are covered with many feet of 
sand and debris ; the sandy bed the river has deserted 
is about a mile wide ; and there are but tliree villages 
standing of all that I noticed when en route to Unya- 
nyembe. When I asked Mussoudi where the people had 
gone to, he replied, " God has taken most of them, but 
some have gone to Udoe." The surest blow ever struck 
at the tribe of the Wakami was indeed given by the 
hand of God ; and, to use the words of the Diwan, 
" God's power is wonderful, and who can resist him !" 
I again resort to my Diary, and extract the following : 
April ^Oth. — Passing Msuwa, we travelled hurriedly 
through the jungle which saw such hard work with 
us when going 'o Unyanyembe. What dreadful odors 
and indescribable loathing this jungle produces ! It is 
so dense that a tiger could not crawl through it ; it is 
so impenetrable that an elephant could not force 
his way ! Were a bottleful of concentrated miasma, 
such as we inhale herein, collected, what a deadly 
poison, instantaneous in its action, undiscoverable in its 
properties, would it be ! I think it would act quicker 
than chloroform, be as fatal as piussic acid. 

Horrors upon horrors are in it. Boas above our 
heads, snakes and scorpions under our feet. Land- 
crabs, terrapins, and iguanas move about in our vicinity. 
Malaria is in the air we breathe ; the road is infested 
with ^'hot-water" ants, which bite our legs until we 
dance and squirm about like madmen. Yet, somehow, 
we are fortunate enough to escape annihilation, and 
many another traveller might also. Yet here, in verity, 
are the ten plagues of Kgypt, through which a travellei 
in these regions must run the gauntlet ; 



May, 1872.] HOMEWABD BOUND. 648 

1. Plague of boas. 

2. Red ants, or " hot- water." 

3. Scorpions, 

4. Thorns and spear cacti. 
6. Numerous impediments. 

6. Black mud knee-deep. 

7. Suffocation from the dt3nsity of the jungle. 

8. Stench. 

9. Thorns in the road. 
10. Miasma. 



May Ist. Kingaru Hera, — We heard news of a 
great storm having raged at Zanzibar, which has 
destroyed every house and every ship, — so the story 
runs ; — and tlie same destruction has visited Bagamoyo 
and Whinde, they say. But I am by this time pretty 
well acquainted with the exaggerative tendency of tlie 
African. It is possible that serious loss has been 
sustained, from the evidences of the effects of the storm 
in tlie interior. I hear, also, that there are white men 
at Bagamoyo, who are about starting into the country 
to look after me (?). Who would look after me, I 
cannot imagine. I think they must have some confused 
idea of my Expedition ; though, how they came to know 
that I was looking for any man 1 cannot conceive, be- 
cause I never told a soul until I readied Unyanyembe. 

May Ind. Rosako. — I had barely arrived at the 
village before the three men I despatched from Mvumi, 
Ugogo, entered, bringing with them from tlie generous 
American Consul a few bottles of champagne, a few 
pots of jam, and two boxes of Boston crackers. These 
were most welcome after my terrible experiences in the 
Makata Valley. Inside one of these boxes, carefully 
put up by the Consul, were four numbers of the 
* Herald ;' one of which contained my correspondence 
from Unyanyembe, wherein were some curious typo- 



650 EOW I FO UND LI VING STONE. 

graphical errors, especially in figures and African 
names. I suppose my wiiting was wretched, owing to 
my weakness. In another are several extracts from 
various newspapers, in which I learn that many edi- 
tors regard the Expedition into Africa as a myth. 
Alas ! it has been a terrible, earnest fact with me ; 
nothing but hard, conscientious work, privation, sick- 
ness, and almost death. Eighteen men have paid the 
forfeit of their lives in the undertaking. It certainly 
is not a myth — the death of my two wliite assistants; 
they, poor fellows, found their fate in the inhospitable 
regions of the interior. 

One of these critical articles, which emanated fiom 
the pen of a Tennessee editor, after humorous banter of 
the Expedition, ends as follows : 

" The fate of that Expedition is fixed, and unless Livingstone 
makes his reappearance in civilized society we need never expect to 
hear from that 'Herald' commissioner again. He'll get into some 
other big Makata swamp, and go the way of his hapless dog ' Omar.* 
Sic semper." 

So, while I was travelling in Africa, upon an errand 
that I supposed, in my innocence, wonld have com- 
nended itself to most Christians, there were people 
praying for my failure. It is wonderful what little 
difference exists between civilization and barbarism — 
what a thin line divides some white men from negro 
savages. The latter I have found kind and agreeable 
people when well treated — the sentiment embodied in 
the above extract proves to me what I may expect 
when I reach home. At all events, I have the laugh 
on my side now. If I only live to reach home I may 
have occasion to laugh more. 

One of my letters received from Zanzibar by my 
messengers states that there is an expedition at Baga- 



May, 1872.] HOMEWABD BOUND. 651 

inoyo called the " Livingstone Search and ReHef Expe- 
dition." What will the leaders of it do now ? Living- 
stone is found and relieved already. Livingstone says 
he requires nothing more. It is a misfortune that they 
did not start earlier ; then they might, with propriety, 
proceed, and be welcomed. 

Mai/ 4M.— Arrived at Kingwere's Ferry, but we 
were unable to attract the attention of the canoe 
paddler. Between our camp and Bagamoyo w^e have 
an inundated plain that is at least four miles broad. 
The ferrying of our Expedition across this broad 
watery waste will occupy considerable time. 

Mai/ bill, — Kiiigwere, the canoe proprietor, came 
about IJ A.M. from his village at Gongoni, beyond the 
watery plain. By his movements I am fain to believe 
him to be a descendant of some dusky King Log, for I 
have never seen in all this land the attributes and 
peculiarities of that royal personage so faithfully illus- 
trated as in Kingwere. He brought two canoes with 
him, short, cranky things, in which only twelve of us 
could embark at a time. It was 3 o'clock in the after- 
noon before we arrived at Gongoni village. 

May (jih. — After impressing Kingwere with the 
urgent necessity of quick action on his part, with a 
promise of an extra five-dollar gold piece, I had the 
satisfaction to behold the last man reach my camp at 
3.30 P.M. 

An hour later, and we are en route, at a pace that I 
never saw equalled at any time by my caravan. Every 
man's feelings are intensified, for there is an animated, 
nay, lieadlong, impetuosity about their movements that 
indicates but too well what is going on in their minds. 
Surely, my own are a faithful index to their feelings ; 
and I do not feel a whit too proud to acknowledge the 



C52 now I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

great joy that possesses me. I feel proud to think thai 
I have been successful ; but, honestly, I do not feel so 
elated at that as at the hope that to-morrow I shall sit 
before a table bounteous \\ith the good things of this 
life. How I will glory in the hams, and potatoes, and 
good bread ! What a deplorable state of mind, is it 
not ? Ah, my friend, wait till you are reduced to a 
skeleton by gaunt famine and coarse, loathsome food — 
until you have waded a Makata swamp, and marched 
525 miles in thirty-five days through such weather as 
we have had — then you will think such pabula, food fit 
for gods ! 

Happy are we that, — after completing our mission, 
after the hurry and worry of the march, after the 
anxiety and vexation suffered from fractious tribes, after 
tramping for the last fifteen days through mire and 
Stygian marsh, — we near Beulah's peace and rest ! Can 
we do otherwise than express our happiness by firing 
away gunpowder until our horns are emptied — then 
shout our "hurrahs" until we are hoarse — then, with 
hearty, soul-inspiring " Yambos,'' greet every mother's 
son fresh from the sea ? Not so, think the Wangwana 
soldiers ; and I so sympathize with them that I permit 
them to act their maddest without censure. 

At sunset we enter the town of Bagamoyo. " More 
pilgrims come to town," Avere the words heard in 
Beulah. " The white man has come to town," were 
the words we heard in Bagamoyo. And we shall cross 
the water to-morrow to Zanzibar, and shall enter the 
golden gate ; we shall see nothing, smell nothing, 
taste nothing that is offensive to the stomach any 
moi-e ! 

The kirangozi blows his horn, and gives forth blasts 
potential as Astolpho's, as the natives and Arabs throng 



May, 1872.] HOMEWARD BOUND 658 

aroTind us. And that bright flag, whose stars have 
waved over the waters of the great lake in Central 
Africa, which promised relief to the harassed Living- 
stone when in distress at Ujiji, returns to the sea once 
again — torn, it is true, but not dishonoured — tattered, 
but not disgraced. 

As we reached the middle of the town, I saw on the 
steps of a large white house a white man, in flannels 
and helmet similar to that I wore ; he was young and 
reddish-whiskered ; he had a bright, lively, humorous 
face, while his head was slightly inclined on one side, 
whicli gave him somewhat of a pensive appearance. I 
thought myself rather akin to white men in general, 
and I walked up to him. He advanced towards me, 
and we shook hands — did everything but embrace. 

" Won't you walk in ?" said he. 

" Thanks." 

** What will you have to drink — beer, stout, brandy ? 
Eh, by George ! I congratulate you on your splendid 
success," said he, impetuously. 

I knew him immediately. He was an Englishman. 
It is their habit to do things after that fashion ; but it 
was different in Central Africa. (Splendid success ! 
Is that the view they take of it ? It is better still. 
But how does he know anything about it ? Oh, I forgot. 
My messengers have been talking, I see.) 

" Thanks. I will take anything you like to give 
me. 

" Let's have some beer, boy, quick, or I will knock 
seven d s out of you," said he, in a lively tone. 

It would be useless to relate every detail of the 
conversation that took place between us. He soon 
informed me, in that light, vivacious way peculiarly 
his own, who he was, what he came for, what were hia 



654 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

hopes, Ills ideas, and his feelings upon almost eveiy 
subject. He was Lieut. William Henn, K.N., chiel 
of the Livingstone Search and Eelief Expedition, about 
to be despatched by the Royal Geographical Society t<^ 
find and relieve Livingstone. The former chief, as the 
expedition was at first organized, was Lieut. Llewellyn 
S. Dawson, who, as soon as he heard from my men 
that I had found Livingstone, had crossed over to 
Zanzibar, and, after consultation with Dr. John Kirk, 
had resigned. He had now nothing further to do with 
it, the command having formally devolved on Lieut. 
Herm. A Mr. Charles New, also, missionary from 
Mombasah, had joined the expedition, but he had 
resigned too. So now there were left but Lieut. Henn 
and Mr. Oswald Livingstone, second son of the Doctor. 

" Is Mr. Oswald Livingstone here ?" I asked, with 
considerable surprise. 

" Yes ; he will be here directly." 

" What are you going to do now ?" I asked. 

" I don't think it worth my while to go now. You 
have taken the wind out of our sails completely. If 
you have relieved him, I don't see the use of my going. 
Do you ?" 

" Well, it depends. You know your own orders best. 

If you have come only to find and relieve him, I can 

tell you truly he is found and relieved, and that he 

wants nothing more than a few canned meats, and some 

other little things which I dare say you have not got. 

I have his list in his own handwriting with me. Bui 

his son must go anyhow, and I can get men easily 

enough for him." 

" Well, if he is relieved, it is of no use my going. 
• * ♦ * * ' « 

I thought I should have some good sport, I am ^erj 



May, 1872.] HOMEWARD BOUND, 656 

fond of shooting. I should like to shoot an African 
elej^hant." 

" Ob, Livingstone doesn't want you. He says he has 
plenty of stores — enough to enable him to fiuish up 
comfortably ; and I am sure he ought to know best. 
If he lacked anything, he would have mentioned it in 
the list. Any more than he has got would be an 
incumbrance— he could not get the men to carry them. 
What have you got here ?" 

*' Oh," said he, with a light laugh, *'we have the 
store-room full of cloth and beads. We have over one 
hundred and ninety loads of stores.'* 

" One hundred and ninety loads !" 

" Yes." 

" Why, where could you go with all these loads ? 
There are not enough men on the whole coast to carry 
such a quantity. One hundred and ninety loads ! Why, 
you would require two hundred and fifty men to carry 
them, because you would be obliged to take at least 
fifty supernumeraries !" 

At this time in walked a tall, slight, young, gentle- 
manly man, with light complexion, hght hair, dark, 
lustrous eyes, who was introduced to me as Mr. Oswald 
Livingstone. The introduction was hardly necessary, 
for in his features there was much of what were the 
specialities of his father. There was an air of quiet 
resolution about him, and in the greeting which he 
gave me he exhibited rather a reticent character ; hut 
I attributed that to a receptive nature, wliich augured 
well for the future. A greater contrast than these 
two young men could hardly have been presented. 
One was volatile, redundant, inconsistent, efiervescent, 
boiling over with his uncontrollable vitality, irrepres- 
sibly mercurial, hilarious, and jovial ; the other was 



666 HOW 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

composed, even to a little sternness, unruffled m iiia 
demeanor, demurely staid, with a tranquil, resolute, 
and fixed face, but with flashing eyes, that vivified an 
otherwise immobile expression. Of the two, I should 
have said the latter v/ould have been the fittest leadei 
of an Expedition ; but Henn, if he possessed enduring 
qualities — not such as belong to the physical constitu- 
tion, but the moral courage to bear with fortitude, 
and persevere under constantly recurring calamities, 
fevers, privations, and difficulties — was an eligible com- 
panion, with his elan, high spirits, and bubbling hilarity. 
Livingstone seemed to be able by nature to support 
the burden of responsibility ; while Henn, from his 
natural vivacity and impulsive disposition, seemed yet 
too young for such a charge, though he had acquired 
the quality of manhood. 

** I was telling Lieut. Henn that, whether he goes or 
not, you must go to your father, Mr. Livingstone." 

" Oh, I mean to go." 

" Yes, that's right. I will furnish you with men and 
what stores your father needs. My men will take you 
to Unyanyembe without any difficulty. They know the 
road well, and that is a great advantage. They know 
how to deal with the negro chiefs, and you will have no 
need to trouble your head about them, but march. The 
great thing that is required is speed. Your father will 
be waiting for the things.'* 

** I will march them fast enough, if that is all." 

" Oh, they will be going up light, and they can easily 
make long marches." 

It was settled, then. Henn made up his mind that, 
as the Doctor had been relieved, he was not wanted ; 
but, before formally resigning, he intended to consult 
with Dr. Kirk, and for that purpose he would cross 



May, 1872.] )^OMEWARD BOUND. 657 

over to Zanzibar the next day with the ' Herald ' 
Expedition. 

At 2 A.M. I retired to sleep on a comfortable bed. 
There was a great smell of newness about certain 
articles in the bedroom, such as havresacks, knapsacks, 
portmanteaus, leather gun-cases, &c. Evidently the 
new Expedition had some crudities about it ; but a 
journey into the interior would soon have lessened the 
stock of superfluities, which all new men at first load 
themselves with. 

Ah ! what a sigh of relief was that I gave, as I threw 
myself on my bed, at the thought that, ** Thank God ! 
my marching was ended." 

2 u 



658 HOW I FOUND LITINGaTONK 



CHAPTER XVII. 

VALEDICTORY. 

At 5 P.M., on the 7th of May, 1872, the dhow which 
conveyed my Expedition back to Zanzibar arrived in 
the harbor, and the men, dehghted to find them- 
eelves once more so near their homes, fired volley after 
volley, the American flag was hoisted up, and we soon 
saw the house-roofs and wharves lined with spectators, 
many of whom were Europeans, with glasses levelled 
at us. 

We drew ashore slowly ; but a boat putting off to 
take us to land, we stepped into it, and I was soon in 
presence of my friend the Consul, who heartily wel- 
comed me back to Zanzibar ; and soon after was intro- 
duced to the Rev. Charles New, who was but a day or 
two previous to my arrival an important member of 
the English Search Expedition — a small, slight man 
in appearance, who, though he looked weakly, had a 



May, 1872.] VALEDICTORY. 659 

fund of energy or nervousness in him whicli was 
almost too great for such a body. He also heartily 
congratulated me. 

After a bounteous dinner, to which I did justice in a 
manner that astonished my new friends, Lieut. Dawson 
called to see me — a stalwart young man, splendid 
figure, liandsome appearance, with quick and intelligent 
features, and said : 

" Mr. Stanley, let me congratulate you, sir.*' 

Lieut. Dawson then went on to state how he envied 
me Uiy success ; riow i had *' caKen tne wind out of hia 
sails" (a nautical phrase similar to that used by Lieut. 
Henn) ; how, when he heard from my men that Dr. 
Livingstone had been found, he at once crossed over 
from Bagamoyo to Zanzibar, and, after a short talk 
with Dr. Kirk, at once resigned. 

" But do you not think, Mr. Dawson, you have been 
rather too hasty in tendering your resignation, from the 
mere verbal report of my men ?" 

" Perhaps," said he ; " but I heard that Mr. Webb 
had received a letter from you, and that you and 
Livingstone had discovered that the Rusizi ran into the 
lake — that you had the Doctor's letters and despatches 
with you." 

" Yes ; but you acquired all this information from 
my men ; you have seen nothing yourself. You have 
therefore resigned before you had personal evidence of 
the fact." 

" Well, Dr. Livingstone is relieved and found, as Mr. 
Henn tells me, is he not ?" 

*' Yes, that is true enough. He is well supplied ; he 
only requires a few little luxuries, which I am going to 
Bend him by an expedition of fifty freemen. Dr. Living- 
stone is found and relieved, most certainly ; and I have 



06 > EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

all the letters and despatches which he could possibly 
send to his friends." 

'' But don't you think I did perfectly right ?*' 

" Hardly — though, perhaps, it would come to the same 
thing in the end. Any more cloth and beads than he 
has already would be an incumbrance. Still, you have 
your orders from the Royal Geographical Society. I 
have not seen those yet, and I am not prepared to 
judge what your best course would have been. But I 
think you did wrong in resigning before you saw me ; for 
then you would have had, probably, a legitimate excuse 
for resigning. I should have held on to the expedition 
until I had consulted with those who sent me ; though, 
in such an event as this, the order would be, perhaps, to 
* Come home.' " 

" As it has turned out, though, don't you think I did 
right ?" 

" Most certainly it would be useless for you to go tc 
search for and relieve Livingstone now, because he has 
already been sought, found, and relieved ; but perhaps 
you had other orders." 

" Only, if I went into the country, I was then to 
direct my attention to exploration ; but, the primary 
object having been forestalled by you, I am compelled 
to return home. The Admiralty granted me leave of 
absence only for the search, and never said anything 
about exploration." 

" In your orders, which you say you have, is there 
nothing said as to what you were to do in the event of 
your meeting me ?" 

" Not a word, though they knew it well ; for one of 
the members of the Royal Geographical Society sug- 
gested to me privately that I might possibly be able to 
relieve you. I knew nothing about your expedition 



May, 1872.] VALEDICTORY. 661 

except from your letter to the * Herald ;' but we had 
been informed that you were sick from fever, and pro- 
bably dead. When I arrived here I heard much about 
you, and we heard a report that you had found Living- 
stone the very day we came here ; but we did not pay 
much attention to it. Tt was not until I talked with 
your own men that I came to the conclusion that I was 
not wanted, and therefore resigned." 

« Why did they not mention my name in the instruc- 
tions ? They knew, according to what you say, that 
I was in the country ; and, no matter how poor a 
traveller I may have been, it was a contingency that 
might arise.'" 

*'The truth is, they didn't want you to find him. 
You cannot imagine how jealous they are at home 
about this Expedition of yours." 

" Not find Livingstone ! What does it matter to 
them who finds and helps him, so long as he is found 
and relieved ?" 

This was the first shock I received, and from this 
moment I regarded myself as a doomed man with the 
English people. That anyone should have been so 
inhuman as to desire my failure, because it was an 
American Expedition, was the remotest idea that I 
could have entertained. Until this moment I had never 
given a thought as to how people would regard my 
success or failure. I had been too busily employed in 
my work even to think of such wild and improbable 
things, as that any people would rather hope that Dr. 
Livingstone would be irrecoverably lost than that an 
American journalist should find him. 

But I was n(;t long at Zanzibar before I was tho- 
roughly aware of the animus that prevailed in England 
I was shown clippings from newspapers, wherein several 



662 Z70TT I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, 

members of the Royal Geographical Society had ridi- 
culed the American Expedition ; and one member had 
even gone so far as to say that it required the '* steel 
head of an Englishman *' to penetrate Africa. Dr. Kirk 
had written in a kindly spirit, and had stated that his 
" sole reHance was in me ;" for which I felt grateful, 
and regretted that I was the bearer of a formal letter 
to him fiom Dr. Livingstone. 

That evening I despatched a boy over to the English 
Consulate with letters from the great traveller for Dr. 
Kirk and Mr. Oswald Livingstone. 

I was greeted warmly by the American and German 
residents, who could not have shown warmer feeling 
than if Dr. Livingstone had been a near and dear 
relation of their own. Capt. H. A. Eraser and Dr. 
James Christie were also loud in their praises. It seems 
that botli of these gentlemen had attempted to despatch 
a private expedition to the relief of their countryman, 
but through some means it had failed. They had contri- 
buted the sum of $500 to effect this laudable object ; 
but the man to whom they had entrusted its command 
had been engaged by another for a different purpose, at 
a higher sum. But, instead of feeling annoyed that 1 had 
performed what they had intended to do, they were 
among my most enthusiastic admirers. 

The next day 1 received a call from Dr. Kirk, who 
warmly congratulated me upon my success. He 
never alluded in any way to the contents of the letter 
received from Dr. Livingstone. Bishop Tozer also came, 
and thanked me for the service I had rendered to Dr. 
Livingstone. 

On this day I also discharged my men, and re-engaged 
twenty of them to return to the " Great Master." lV)m- 
bay, though in the interior he had scorned the idea ol 



May, 1872.] VALEDICTORY. 6e3 

money rewards, and though he had systematically, in 
my greatest need, endeavoured to baffle me in every 
way, received, besides his pay, a present of I-IO, and 
each man, according to his merits, from $20 to $50. 
For this was a day to bury all animosities, and condone 
all offences. They, poor people, had only acted accord- 
ing to their nature, and I remembered that from Ujiji 
to the coast they had all behaved admirably. 

I saw I was terribly emaciated and changed when I 
presented myself before a full-length mirror. All con- 
firmed my opinion that I was much older in my 
appearance, and that my hair had become grey. Capt. 
Fraser had said, when I hailed him, " You have the 
advantage of me, sir !" and until I mentioned my name 
he did not know me. Even then he jocosely remarked 
that he believed that it was another Tichborne affair. 
I was so different that identity was almost lost, even 
during the short period of thirteen months ; that is, from 
March 23rd, 1871, to May 7th, 1872. 

Lieut. Henn came to me also on the morning after 
my arrival, and requested permission to see the order 
which I received from Dr. Livingstone, which waa 
g^ranted. I append a copy of the order : 

" Untantembb, 14th March, 1872. 
" I have been subjected to so much loss by the 
employment of slaves in caravans sent to me by H.M, 
Consul, that, if Mr. Stanley meets another party of the 
sort, I beg of him to turn them back, but use his discre- 
tion in the whole matter. 

" David Livingstone." 

" This does not refer to our expedition at all," said 
Lieut. Henn 



664 now J FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

** Of course not," I replied ; " it refers to slave cara- 
vans. With your expedition I have nothing whatever 
to do ; you are perfectly free to go, so far as I am 
concerned. But, if you recollect, you asked me last 
night if Dr. Livingstone was relieved. I answer you 
again that he was, and here are the things" (showing 
him the Doctor's list) " that he says he wants. If you 
think that you ought to go to him, I would advise you 
to go. Anyhow, I should advise you not to sell the 
goods, which I hear you intend doing, until you hear 
from the Eoyal Geographical Society. They may have 
other views for you, since you have gone to such a vast 
expense in preparing the expedition." 

" Oh, I shall resign, and turn the whole thing over 
to young Livingstone." 

" You please yourself. You know your own business 
best." 

" I know what I will do. I shall go with Capt. 
Fraser to Kilima-Njaro, and have some good shooting 
there. New tells me that there's lots of game in that 
country." 

Lieut. Henn went direct from the American Con- 
sulate and formally resigned, and the expedition was 
from this time in the hands of Mr. Oswald Livingstone, 
who made up his mind to sell the stores, retaining 
such as would be useful to his father. But, before he 
sold them, I advised Dr. Kirk that it would be best to 
store them, because the Eoyal Geographical Society 
might wish something to be done in the waj of explo- 
ration. 

" No," said Dr. Kirk, " these goods belong to Dr. 
Livingstone, and, as he does not need them, they can 
be converted into money for him withoui- much loss." 

From the Eev. Charles New, a resident missionary 



May, 1872 ] VALEDICTORY, 665 

on the East Coast of Africa, a few miles west of Mom- 
basah, I obtained a great many particulars respecting the 
collapse of the English expedition. Though he ver- 
bally communicated his remarks, he subsequently em- 
bodied them in the shape of a letter to me. I extract 
such paragraphs as bear on the matter : 

After a long residence in East Africa I was returning to England, 
when, at Zanzibar, I met with the English expedition party. Quite 
unexpectedly, and at the instance of the Council of the Eoyal 
Geographical Society, I was asked to join the expedition. After a 
great deal of consideration, and some hesitation, I did so, acce2)ting 
the position of interpreter and third in command. My agreement, 
drawn up by Lieut. Dawson, ran as follows : — 

" I agree to give my gi*atuitous services in, and to join, the 
Livingstone Search and Relief Expedition, as originally organized 
in England by the Royal Geographical Society, on the following 
understanding — 

*'lst. Should accident incapacitate Lieut. Dawson from continuing 
the command, I ayree to consider Lieut. William Henn the commander 
of the expedition, and to act under him as such. 

" 2nd. Should Lieut. William Henn be also incapacitated, I agree 
to take command, and use my best endeavours to carry out the objects 
of the expedition as laid down in the instructions of the Royal 
Geographical Society." 

That was the agreement I signed. Having joined the expedition, 
I did my utmost to push forward its preparations till all was ready 
and we were to start. Lieut. Dawson, Lieut. Henn, and myself 
crossed the Channel to Bagamoyo, with the goods and guard, with the 
view of engaging wa-pagazi forthwith, and starting without delay. 
On our arrival at Bagamoyo we met three men who had arrived two 
or three days before us, and who were said to have come down from 
the interior from you. We examined them, learning from them 
that you had met Dr. Livingstone at Ujiji ; that you and the Doctor 
had gone together to the north end of tlie lake; had seen the river 
Eusizi running into the lake ; that you had then returned to Ujiji, 
and had thence pushed your way eastward as far as Unyanyembe ; 
that there Dr. Livingstone remained with the view of prosecuting 
further researches, but that you were returning with all speed to the 
coast ; that you had already reached Ugogo, and might be expected it; 
Bagamoyo in two or three days' time. 



066 now I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

Dawson and Henn then expressed their intention of thron-ing up 
the expedition, and of returning to England, on the ^'rouud that you 
had done the work they had come to Africa to do. But that evening 
Lieut. Dawson asked me, if, provided it were deemed necessary to 
send on relief to Dr. Livingstone, I should be willing to take it on. 
I expressed ray readiness to consider such a proposal. Next day 
Lieut. Dawson returned to Zanzibar to consult with Dr. Kirk. Two 
days after 1 received a letter each from Dr. Kirk and Lieut. Dawson. 
Both offered to place the Kelief Expedition in my hands ; Mr. Oswald 
Livingstone consenting to act under ray own guidance, he being 
anxious still to go on to his father. I wrote to Dr. Kirk, expressing 
my readiness to take charge of the Relief Expedition. But, in the 
meantime, Lieut. Henn had changed his mind, and he now insisted 
upon assuming the command. I was obliged to retire in his favour. It 
was hoped, however, that I would act under Lieut. Henn as second in 
command ; and, had it been needful, or even possible, I would have 
done so. 

But the expedition was no longer what it had been as originally 
organized in England : it was become a comparatively insignificant 
trip to Unyanyembe, which any two men, with an ordinary amount of 
real interest in it, and a fair share of pluck and perseverance, might 
have accomplished. That is most certainly the view I took of the 
matter. I therefore retired, on the ground that my services were no 
longer necessary, and that my presence would only complicate a very 
easy task. It is generally thought that I had signed an agi*eement 
to act under Lieut. Henn under any circumstances. This is not the 
case. My agreement was with the expedition as originally organized in 
England, and to serve under Lieut. Henn, provided Lieut. Dawson 
were incapacitated through acccident. But Lieut. Dawson was not in- 
capacitated through a^icident. He resigned ; and his resignation, as 
originally organized, upset, as Dr. Kirk said in his letter to me, all 
previous arrangements, and upon this ground the expedition was 
offered to me. After Lieut. Dawson's withdrawal new arrangements 
had to be made, and each individual was at liberty to go on or 
retire as he pleased. 

But I had other reasons for not accepting a second place in such an 
expedition, under Lieut. Henn. In my opinion he was unfit, and in- 
capable of conducting such an expedition. At starting he had 
declared that his (main object) was for sport — to try his hand at 
shooting buffaloes and elephants. Now such a man, in my opinion, 
was not the man to send to the relief of Dr. Livingstone, and I do not 
think I ought to have been asked to act second ta him ; though, had 
the original expedition stood, I would have gnuo foiwnr 1 at all risks. 



May, 1872.] VALEDICTORY, 667 

Another point: Lieut. Henn had threatened to retire from the 
expedition before we heard anything of your return ; tlius exhibiting 
an instability which augured the worst things in regard to his success 
as commander. Learning that Lieut. Henn had threatened to retire, 
I called upon Dr. Kirk expressly to talk with that gentleman about 
the matter. I pointed out to Dr. Kirk that this state of things 
seriously involved the success of the expedition, and suggested that 
the party be called together, in order to bring about a better under- 
standing between Lieut. Dawson and Lieut. Henn. Dr. Kirk said, 
" No ; do nothing of the kind. Henn will go with you two or three 
days into the country, and then quietly retire." 



We will stop here. I have done a friendly part by 
Mr. New, as I have a high idea of his capabilities for 
his high and noble vocation ; and I am sure he will 
pardon me if I point out, in a friendly, critical way, his 
own little faults. The reader may gather from the 
above letter that affairs stood on no amiable footing 
between Messrs. Dawson, Henn, and New. Indeed, 
from what was current at Zanzibar, a stranger would 
have imagined that the three gentlemen were at 
daggers drawn towards one another ; but this was only 
apparent and superficial— there was no deep hostility. 
It was rather early in the day for a real quarrel to 
have taken place. While they were all united under 
one absolute and firm leader^ trivial antipathies slum- 
bered and were passive ; but, as soon as the leader — 
Lieut. Dawson — retired, a little jealousy appeared, which 
was provoked into activity by the question which Dawson 
asked New, " Whether, in the event of relief being neces- 
sary, he would be willing to take commaud?" Mr. New 
wished to deliberate upon it ; but we must also reinem- 
ber that Mr. Henn desired to do the same thing, as it 
was but a verbal and thoughtless expression he used 
when he said he would ''throw up " the expedition: he 
had not arrived at any final conclusion. After two days* 



668 EOW I FOUND LWINOSTONE. 

deliberation, Mr. New declared his " readiness tc accept 
the command ;'* but^ just at this juncture, Mr. Henn 
expressed his determination to proceed with the relief 
party ; and, as he was second in command, he had the 
option to dispose of that right as he pleased, and the 
several parties conceded it to him, as they were bound 
by contract to do so. Mr. New, however — according to 
his own statement — resigned, and pleaded as an excuse 
that the "expedition was no longer what it had been ;'* 
but Mr. New is inclined to be inconsistent when he 
states its constitution was altered. It is true that the 
former chief had retired ; but, according to his own 
version, he had pledged himself to obey Lieut. Henn — 
if Lieut. Dawson was incapacitated by accident. The 
" accident " — nothing less than my appearance — did 
occur, and Lieut. Dawson incapacitated himself by a 
voluntary resignation, by voluntarily depriving himself 
of the power to command ; therefore, Lieut. Henn had 
the right to command, and Mr. Charles New was bound 
to obey him. " Should accident incapacitate Lieut. 
Dawson from continuing the command^ I agree to 
consider Lieut. William Henn the commander of the 
expedition, and to act under him as such." In this 
agreement there is no mention of original organization. 
Mr. New further adds, that it had become a " com- 
paratively insignificant trip to Unyanyembe, which 
any two men, with an ordinary amount of real interest 
in it, and a fair share of pluck and perseverance, might 
have accomplished." I agree with him there ; and not 
only two, but one could have gone; and accomplished 
the designs of the expedition far better than two 
quarrelsome men. About its comparative insignificance 
I differ with him. I should say it was far more difficult 
for an inexperienced party to take a caravan to 



MAif,1872.] VALEDICTORY. 669 

Gnyauyembe, than for an experienced party to lead 
one from Unyanyembe beyond. By the time the party 
arrived at Unyanyembe, it would have been educated 
in the school of experience, and the after journey would 
be as nothing compared to the first essay in a new field. 
At least, I found it so. I had more trouble in going to 
Unyanyembe with my caravans than I had in all the 
other journeys together. The experience I had ac- 
quired in marching the first half enabled me to accom- 
plish the other journeys with ease and rapidity. If the 
experience of Mr. Charles New, as an African traveller, 
was worth anything, or was even going to be of value 
to a raw party, it was from the coast to Unyanyembe, 
and not from Unyanyembe beyond. 

After reaching Unyanyembe, I should say that 
Lieut. Henn and Mr. Livingstone would have been 
perfectly competent to take the caravan anywhere, 
without Mr. New ; the lessons they had acquired on 
the march would have enabled them to utterly ignore 
him. No ; I should say if Mr. New, '* after a little 
hesitation," agreed to join the party when a man like 
Dawson had charge of it, in order to give it the benefit 
of his experience, and if, after Dawson retired, he con- 
sidered Henn incapable, in the opinion of all right- 
minded men he was more than ever bound to sustain 
both Henn and Livingstone with his experience, until 
he had taught them how to travel without him ; tlien 
Mr. New might have retired, had he wished it, with 
grace and credit to himself. 

Though Henn*s main object might be to shoot buffalo 
and elephant, it does not absolve Mr. New from his 
duty of accompanying, advising, and encouraging him 
in his loyalty — when all sport tailed — to the real and 
principal object of the expedition, to whicb they had 



670 BOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

one and all pledged their support. Lieut. Ilenn luiglil 
have been of an unstable and mercurial disposition by 
nature ; but he proved himself to be more consistent — 
even though his object were sport — in proceeding for 
the second time to Bagamoyo, than Mr. New, who, 
when he returned from Bagamoyo, never returned to 
his duty, but resigned his position, then proffered his 
aid, and again withdrew it ; and all because he was 
offered the command when Henn had not quite decided 
to go, and because, when he did decide to go, the com- 
pidiid was giN^en to him a« a ngnt lo wh.cb ho was 
fairly entitled, and not to the Rev. Charles New. 

It was Mr. New's duty to have gone on under Henn, 
as he had pledged himself to do ; then, if Henn 
should have verified the prediction of Dr. Kirk, he 
could have stepped with honor and credit to himself 
into the command which he seems, by his own account, 
to have so much coveted. 

Though Mr. New does not appear in an enviable 
light in this act of the little comedy of '' How not to 
do it," in the first act hp sliines as something heroic, 
and 1 feel myself admiring him intensely, as a true, 
earnest, and brave-hearted man. After a nine years' 
residence in Africa, he meets, on the eve of dej^arture 
for England, whither he proposes to go for the invi- 
goration of his enfeebled frame, with a I'equest to 
accompany the English Search Expedition as inter- 
preter ; and after a Httle hesitation only, he gives his 
utmost aid, and pledges himself to do the best in his 
power for the furtherance of the charitable mission on 
which the little knot of Englishmen are bound. Until 
he hears from my men that Livingstone is found and 
relieved, he devotes himself to his task with all the 
energy of his nature ; sails from Zanzibar to Mombasah, 



May, 1872.] VALEDICTORY. 671 

and presently returns with twenty soldiers, as guard 
for the expedition ; and through his loyalty and devo- 
tion to his work wins all hearts. Mr. New has left a 
very good impression in Zanzibar among the European 
residents, and their unanimous belief is that, if I had 
not come so soon to the coast, he would have carried 
the large and costly expedition through in fine order. 
I have no hesitation in saying that he was perfectly 
qualified for liis work, from his energetic nature and 
long experience. 

But the great fault of the organization was the 
attempt to assimilate so many uncongenial characters 
into one harmonious unity. Not one member bad the 
least affinity of character with the other. One was 
ambitious, positive, hasty, and inclined to be aggres- 
sive ; another was mercurial, impulsive, inconsistent by 
nature ; another was nervous, energetic, religious, and 
too candid ; the other was reticent, earnest, and deter- 
mined. New and Livingstone would have succeeded 
admirably. Dawson, by himself, would have been 
better than with anybody else. Henn, charged with 
the sole command, would have honorably performed 
his duty, for pluck and honor w^ere the two principal 
ingredients of his character. As a body, uniform 
and harmonious, the elements of cohesion were wanting 
in three of them ; while one would have joined neither 
party, but remained a neutral witness to factions. Had 
they gone tlie party must have quarrelled ; and it 
would have been a worse disgrace than not going at all. 
It was therefore fortunate for the credit of Englishmen 
that my arrival saved their expedition from collapsing 
and being w^recked in the interior. 

Few opportunities present themselves at Zanziba,r 
for departure from the island. H.M.S. 'Magpie' had 



872 BOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

departed the very next morning after my arrival for a 
cruise, and we found afterwards that she had spoken 
the ' Wolverine ' at sea, as was her intention, and liad 
transmitted letters and despatches by that war-vessel 
to Seychelles and England. If it be true, as reported 
to me, that an English man-of-war would not have 
stayed an hour, even, for Dr. Livingstone, I have no 
right to feel aggrieved that she did not wait for me to 
send even a small despatch by her about Livingstone ; 
but at the same time I thought it strange, if a captain 
of a man-of-war could steam his vessel to Bagamoyo 
for a hunting party, that another captain could not stay 
even a few minutes, to take a letter announcing the, 
safety of Livingstone. 

I was told on the authority of an English clergyman 
that even if Dr. Livingstone himself had appeared at 
Zanzibar, a British cruiser could not be detained an 
hour beyond time to convey him away ; but I can 
hardly suppose that the necessary discipline of a 
British man-of-war would not, in such an exceptional 
case, have been relaxed. 

After disbanding my Expedition I set about preparing 
another, according to Dr. Livingstone's request. What 
the English expedition lacked I purchased out of the 
money advanced by Mr. Oswald Livingstone. The 
guns, fifty in number, were also furnished out of the 
stores of the Enghsh expedition by him ; and so were 
the ammunition, the honga cloth, for the tribute to the 
Wagogo, and the cloth for provisioning the force. Mr. 
Livingstone worked hard in the interests of his father, 
and assisted me to the utmost of his ability. He deli v^ered 
over to me, to be packed up, * Nautical Almanacs ' 
for 1872, 1873, 1874; also a chronometer, which was 
m the charge of Dr. Kirk, and which formerly belonged 



May, 1872.J VALEDICTORY. 673 

to Dr. Livingstone. All these things, besides a journal, 
envelopes, note-books, writing-paper, medicines, canned 
fruits and fish, a little wine, some tea, cutlery and table 
ware, newspapers, and private letters and despatches, 
were packed up in air-tight boxes of tin, as well as 
100 lbs. of fine American flour, and some boxes of soda 
biscuits. 

Until the 19th of May it was understood that Mr. 
Oswald Livingstone would take charge of the caravan 
to his father; but about this date he changed his mind, 
and surprised me with a note stating he had decided 
not to go to Unyanyembe, for reasons he thought just 
and sufficient. I ventured to suggest that it was his 
duty to go, since he had come so far as Zanzibar ; but 
it was evident he acted as he thought best ; ana, taking 
into consideration the fact that Dr. Kirk advised him 
not to injure his health, and waste his studies, when 
there was no absolute necessity of his personal super- 
intendence of the caravan, I think he acted quite right 
in resigning. Dr. Kirk was his fathers friend, his 
father's former companion on the Zambezi; and as 
young Mr. Livingstone had abundant faith and con- 
fidence in his judgment, more than he had in his own, 
it was but natural that he should adopt the advice of 
his father's friend. 

Under these circumstances, my duty was to follow 
out the instructions of Dr. Livingstone, in procuring a 
good and efficient leader — an Arab — for leading the 
expedition to Unyanyembe ; and with this view I 
wrote a letter to Dr. Kirk, requesting his infiuence with 
the Sultan. The reply I received from Dr. Kirk reads 
thus: 

2 X 



674 MOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

" British Agency, Zanzibar, 20tli May, 1872. 

" Mr DEAR Sir, 

" Dr. Livingstone's own letter to Seyd Burghash 
has been long ago transmitted and explained to him, 
but I then mentioned that you no longer thoiiglit of 
troubling bim for the responsible head man described. 
Under the altered circumstances, Mr. W. 0. Livingstone 
having abandoned the idea of following his father, I 
shall be only too glad to aid you with the Sultan, and 
shall, if you desire^ at once send, and tell him to pick 
out the proper m^n, whom you will, of course, review, 
and reject or approve, as you think best. 

'' Very truly yours, 
(Signed) " John Kirk/' 

The application of Dr. Kirk to the Sultan for a man 
was unsuccessful, so he subsequently informed me ; and, 
upon receiving this information, I set about looking for 
a leader in another direction, and in a few hours suc- 
ceeded in obtaining one highly recommended from 
Sheikh Hashid, whom I engaged at an advance of $100. 
The young Arab, though not remarkably bright, seemed 
honest and able, but 1 left his further employment after 
reaching Unyanyembe to Dr. Livingstone, who would 
be able to decide then whether he was quite trust- 
worthy. 

On the 25th, Lieut. Dawson, after engaging passage 
in the American barque, ' Mary A. Way,' Capt. Russell, 
for New York, sailed on that day. I supplied him 
with a letter of introduction to a friend of mine in New 
York. We parted on terms of the utmost amity and 
goodwill, as I regarded him as a most chivalrous 
gentleman. 

On the morning of the 26th, Dr. Kirk called at the 



Mat, 1872.] VALEDICTORY, 675 

American Consulate to visit his friend, Mr. Webb, and 
while in the house I took the opportunity of saying to 
him, '' Doctor, I fear I will not be able to despatch the 
expedition to Dr. Livingstone so early as I hoped. If 
the steamer which Mr. Henn, Mr. Livingstone, and 
myself have chartered is obliged to sail before I can 
embark the expedition, I shall have to ask you to take 
charge of it." 

To which Dr. Kirk replied, " If you do, I shall have 
to decline it. I am not going to expose myself 
to needless insult again.* I am not going to do any- 
thing more for Dr. Livingstone in a private capacity. 
Officially I will, as I would for any other British 
subject." 

" Needless insult, did you say, Dr. Kirk ?" I asked. 

"Yes." 

" May I ask what it consists of?" 

*' He blames me for the failure of the caravans to 
reach him, and charges me with having employed 
slaves. If the men did not reach him, how can I 
help it ?" 

" Pardon me. Dr. Kirk, but if you were in 
Dr. Livingstone's place, you would have done so 
yourself. Your best friend would have been suspected 
of coldness — to say nothing else — had you been told, 
time after time, by leaders of caravans, that they had 
been commanded by the Consul to bring you back, and 
on no account to go with you anywhere." 

*' But he could see by the contracts that they had 
been engaged to follow him wherever he chose. If he 
prefers to believe negroes, and half-castes, and doubt 

* Readers interested in this subject may be curious to know what 
this insult was. It refers to Dr. Livingstone's letter to Dr. Kirk, 
dated Ujiji, Oct. 30, 1871.— See Appendix. 



676 HOW I FO UND LIVINGSTONE. 

my word and official communications, he is a fool ; that 
is all I have got to say." 

'* My dear sir, how can Dr. Livingstone help doubting 
tlie contract ? Do not all the men swear to him that 
you liave commanded them to bring him back ? All 
liis entreaties are of no avail, and the whole ends by 
tliein forcing him back from his discoveries. What 
was lie to do, but believe that there was something 
inexplicable in it ? All through the interior he has 
beard the same tale over and over again, that you have 
sent a letter to him, ordering him to come back." 

" I cannot help it. I have written him a letter just 
as good as he sent me." 

" Well," said I, " it won't do for me to leave the 
caravan in Zanzibar. I must send it off myself, then." 

The next day I collected the men together, and as it 
was dangerous to allow them to wander about the city, 
I locked them up in a courtyard, and fed them there, 
until every soul, fifty-seven in number, answered to 
their names. 

In the meantime, through the American Consul's 
assistance, I obtained the services of Johari, the chief 
dragoman of the American Consulate, who was charged 
with the conduct of the party across the inundated 
plain of the Kingani, and w^ho w^as enjoined on no 
account to return until the expedition had started on 
its march from the western bank of the Kingani River. 
Mr. Oswald Livingstone generously paid him a douceur 
for the promise of doing his work thoroughly. 

A dhow having been brought to anchor before the 
American Consulate, I then addressed my old com- 
panions, saying, *^You are now about to return to 
Unyanyembe, to the ' Great Master.' You know him ; 
you know he is a good man, and has a kind heart. He 



May, 1872.] VALEDICTOBT. VII 

is different from me ; he will not beat you, as I have done. 
But you know I have rewarded you all — how I have 
made you all rich in cloth and money. You know how, 
when you behaved yourselves well, I was your friend. 
I gave you plenty to eat and plenty to wear. When 
you were sick I looked after you. If 1 was so good to 
you, the Great Master will be much more so. He has a 
pleasant voice, and speaks kind. When did you ever 
see him lilt his hand against an offender ? When you 
were wicked, he did not speak to you in anger — he 
spoke to you in tones of sorrow. Now, will you 
promise me that you will follow him — do what he tells 
you, obey him in all things, and not desert him ?" 

" We will, we will, my master !" they all cried, 
iervently. 

" Then there is one thing more. I want to shake 
hands with you all before you go — and we part for 
ever ;" and they all rushed up at once, and a vigorous 
shake was interchanged with each man. 

" Now, let every man take up his load !" 

In a short time I marched them out into the street, 
and to the beach ; saw them all on board, and the 
canvas hoisted, and the dhow speeding westward on 
her way to Bagamoyo. 

I felt strange and lonely, somehow. My dark 
friends, who had travelled over so many hundreds of 
miles, and shared so many dangers with me, were gone, 
and I — was left l)ehind. How many of their friendly 
faces shall I see again ? 

On the 29th, the steamer * Africa,' belonging to the 
German Consulate, chartered by Messrs. Henn, Living- 
stone, New, Morgan, and myself, departed from 
Zanzibar for Seychelles, with the good wishes of almosl 
all the European residents on the island. 



678 ffOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, 

On our voyage eastward, we sighted tlie * Mary 
A. Way/ in which poor Dawson had taken passage. It 
wns a matter of wonder to us that Dawson should have 
sailed for England by such a roundabout way. But 
after arriving in England, I saw a letter sent by him 
to the Secretary of the Royal Geographical Society, 
wherein he says : — 

''I should have proceeded by the same route; but, 
though I do not grudge Mr. Stanley his well-earned 
success, it would be distasteful to me, if not to both of 
us, to travel in company ; and opportunities are but 
few from Zanzibar to Europe." 

I cannot imagine the spirit in which this letter is 
dictated. It differs very much from the frank, generous 
nature I took him to have. I can understand, however, 
that it would be distasteful to him to sail with me, if 
any one were guilty of ungenerous and invidious com- 
parisons ; but why it should be distasteful to me, I 
cannot conceive. 

We arrived at Seychelles on the 9th of June, about 
twelve hours after the French mail had departed for 
Aden. As there is only monthly communication 
between Mahe (Seychelles) and Aden, we were com- 
pelled to remain on the island of Mahe one month. 
Messrs. Livingstone, New, Morgan, and myself, hired 
a nice little wooden house, which we called the 
' Livingstone Cottage," while Mr. Henn resorted to 
an hotel. 

My life in Mahe is among the most agreeable things 
"Hiiected with my return from Africa. I found my 
companions estimable gentlemen, and true Christians. 
Mr. Livingstone exhibited many amiable traits of 
character, and proved himself to be a studious, 
thoughtful, earnest man. When at last the French 



May, 1872.] VALEDICTORY. 679 

steamer came from Mauritius, there was not one of out 
party who did not regret leaving the beautiful island, 
and the hospitable British officers who were stationed 
there. Tlie Civil Commissioner, Mr. Hales Franklyn, 
and Dr. Brooks, did their utmost to welcome the 
wanderer, and I take this opportunity to acknowledge 
the many civilities I personally received from them. 

At Aden, the passengers from the south were 
transferred on board the French mail steamer, the 
' Mei-kong,' en route from China to Marseilles. At 
the latter port I was received with open arms by 
Dr. Hosmer and the representative of the ' Daily 
Telegraph ;' and was then told how men regarded the 
results of the Expedition ; but it was not until I arrived 
in England that I realized it. 

Mr. Bennett, who originated and sustained the 
enterprise, now crowned it by one of the most generous 
acts that could be conceived. I had promised Dr. 
Livingstone, that twenty-four hours after I saw hia 
letters published in the London journals, I would post 
his letters to his family and friends in England. In 
order to permit me to keep my plighted word, hia 
agent telegraphed the two letters I received from him, 
by cable, at an expense of nearly £2,000. 



A few more words, and I shall conclude, my dear 
reader. It were, perhaps, more dignified in me if I 
halted here, and wrote fixis to this record of Travels, 
Adventures, and Discoveries ; but there are some 
things which I cannot pass by in silence, and amongst 
them is, the treatment I have received in England. 

The English Press seemed to have been laboring, 
before I arrived in England, under a tissue of errors. 



680 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTOXh'. 

Hardly an African word was correct — dates were all 
wrong — facts were distorted in the most ii] compre- 
hensible manner ; and these seemed to give rise to 
doubts and suspicions. Except a letter from Unya- 
nyembe, despatches on my return to Zanzibar, and my 
letters at Marseilles, I repudiate all else. What I 
have written only will I father. What is published in 
the ' New York Herald,' as my letters and despatches, I 
assert to be correct— except where typographical errors 
have crept in, which were natural, owing to the 
strangeness of the names, and, perhaps, to my own 
handwriting ; which, when a man is suffering from 
fever, is not likely to be very perspicuous or neat. 

But it is an astounding fact, that Enorlish editors felt 
jealous that it had been left to an American corre- 
spondent to discover Dr. Livingstone. Almost all the 
English journals expressed their views upon this point 
ill unmistakable terms, though the principal and most 
respectable did not hesitate at the same time to give 
me a large meed of praise — I refer to the ' Tiuies,' the 
* Daily TLlegraph,' the ' Daily News,' and ' Morning 
Post.'^ 

Gentlemen editors, though I thank you for your 
compHraents to a journalist, yet young, and in no 
way distinguished, in his own humble opinion, I must 
say, frankly, you have no right to feel jealous of me, or 
of any one else. I am only a Special Correspondent, at 
the beck and call of the journal which I have the honor 
to serve. I was bound by my engagements with it to 
proceed to any quarter of the globe wlienever the order 
came. I sought not the distinction of searching after 
Livingstone. When I received the call I was compelled 
to obey, or to resign. I preferred to obey rather than 
to resign. If you have read this book, you will know 



VALEDICTORY, 681 

what became of the mission with which I was entrusted ; 
how it began, and how it ended. 

Neither have you a right, gentlemen, to feel jealous 
of the gentleman who employed me. Africa was as 
much open to you as it was to him. Americans felt as 
great an interest in Dr. Livingstone as Englishmen did. 
As many Americans had read his books as English- 
men had done. Prompted by the desire to satisfy 
the craving which Americans felt in regard to the 
safety of Dr. Livingstone, he conceived the idea of 
despatcliing a "Special" into Central Africa to search 
for him. He had abundant means, and had the will. 
If one Special had refused the errand, anotlier had 
accepted it; there were enough of them at his coin- 
mand. Had each of the permanent employes on his 
journal refused the task, a volunteer from tlit< intelligent 
masses had easily been found, and the results, through 
God's good pleasure, would have been the same as they 
are now — probably better. Had any of you thought of 
accomplishing the task, and willed that it should be 
accomplished, a thousand Englishmen had volunteered 
for it at once, and the same results would have been 
obtained — perhaps Letter. You have all distinguished 
yourselves. The * Times,' in the Crimea, in the Lidian 
Mutiny, and in politics; its title is well known in every 
part of the globe. The ' Daily Telegraph ' has distin- 
guished itself also in a hundred instances, and so has the 
* Daily News.' If the ' New York Herald ' desired to carry 
the enterprise of the Press into the heart of Africa, into 
the domain of fable and mystery, who will gainsay it ? 
If it can afford the cost, why should other journals 
murmur ? It is simply a question of money, which is the 
sinew of all enterprises. With a sufficient supply of it 
all Africa can be explored easily. Not only explored, 



682 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, 

but conquered and civilized. Not only civilized, but 
intersected by railroads from one end to the otber, 
through and through. Why, then, be jealous ? The 
whole world is as open to you as to the ' New York 
Herald; 

Where is the greatness of the deed ? The traveller 
whom I sought was not lost. He was alive. Had he 
been dead, and his papers scattered among the tribes, 
and I had recovered every scrap of jDaper and every 
item of his discoveries, as well as his bones, and 
delivered them to whom they were of value — that had 
been great. What I had the good fortune to accom- 
plish was not so great as it was meritorious, I found 
him ailing, and destitute ; by my mere presence I cheered 
him — with my goods I relieved him. 

Is the fact that I cheered and relieved him a source 
of annoyance to you ? Ah, gentlemen, would you not 
have rendered to him this needful service in like 
manner ? If you witnessed a child fall into the gutter, 
would you not stretch forth a liand to lift him up ? If 
3^ou witnessed honest penury, would you not give 
the wherewithal to relieve it ? If you were in presence 
of weakness, would you not assist it with a portion 
of your strength ? If you saw suffering, would you 
not endeavor to alleviate it ? 

Well, tlien, how did you reward me for doing what 
you would have done yourselves in a like case ? Some 
of you first doubted the truth of my narrative; then 
suspected that the letters I produced as coming from 
him were forgeries; then accused me of sensation- 
alism ; then quibbled at the facts I published, and 
snarled at me as if I had committed a crime. With a 
simple tale — unvarnished, plain, clear, literal truth — you 
could find fault ! What weakness ! What puerility ! 



VALEDICTORY, 683 

But, believe ne or not, Editors and Critics, what is 
related in this hook has transpired even so, to the best 
of my knowledge and belief. 

But what have you to say for yourselves, gentle- 
men geographers? Think you to slay me with your 
unbelief, as you slew James Bruce, Eene Caillie, or 
Faul du Chaillu? Think you to wound me with 
your unkindness, as you wounded the illustrious 
Burton and the gallant Petherick ? You caused the 
world to believe that you were anxious about your 
great Associate. You wished men to believe, during 
the silence that covered him, that you craved to know 
what had become of him. Without aid or counsel from 
you, the mission to find him was begun, carried through, 
and ended, and you were told, "Livingstone is found, 
and reheved : your great Associate is alive, and is 
about to prosecute his discoveries with greater vigor 
than ever." What was your reply ? " There is one 
point on which a little eclair clssement is desirable, 
because a belief seems to prevail that Mr. Stanley has 
discovered and relieved Doctor Livii;gstone ; whereas, 
without any disparagement to Mr. Stanley's enei'gy, 
activity, and loyalty, if there has been any discovery, 
and relief, it is Dr. Livingstone who has discovered and 
relieved Mr. Stanley. Dr. Livingstone, indeed, was in 
clover, while Mr. Stanley was nearly destitute. It is 
only proper that the relative position of the parties 
should be correctly stated. We trust that the expedition 
sent out by the Society will relieve both Dr. Livingstone 
and Mr. Stanley, and enable them to continue the 
researches upon which they are engaged." 

Gentlemen, may I ask, why, if you believed Dr. 
Livingstone " was in clover," you sent out an expedition 
to relieve him ? 



684 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

Wliat did you do when I arrived in England, after yon 
had had the letters from your Associate a week in your 
hands ? Let friendly * Punch ' reply : " The President 
of the Royal Geographical Society, who discovered 
that Livingstone discovered Stanley, and not Stanley 
Livingstone, has at last discovered that Stanley is in 
England. This is not a bad discovery. It seems, 
however, to have been accomplished only after a 
severe effort. Mr. Stanley hears, on the 6th August, 
after having been in England for a week, that the 
Geographical Society has discovered him." Let the 
' Daily Telegraph ' speak : " A serious and honest 
amende is due to Mr. Stanley from the representatives 
of the Royal Geographical Society, for the sake of 
which he (Mr. Stanley) has saved the life of the great 
traveller, and safely brought us all these precious 
documents (letters)." I received a cold letter of thanks 
— du week after I arrived in England. 

How else did you manifest your feelings after you 
heard the good news that your friend was alive ? 
Your Vice-President, instructed by your Council, in- 
vited me to attend a session of the Geographical Section 
of the British Association. I complied with the 
request. But, after I read my paper, and defended 
Livingstone from rather severe criticisms, your Vice- 
President rose, and, in a sweet, smooth, bland voice, 
said, "We don't want sensational stories, we want 
facts." 

What was the sensational story I uttered ? Subsequent 
to the reading of my paper on * Dii^coveries at the 
Northern Head of Lake Tanganika,' Mr. C. R. Mark- 
ham read a paper written by Colonel Grant (the com- 
panion of Speke), which was to the effect that Living- 
stone had conceived a moist extravagant idea when ho 



VALEDICTORY. 685 

believod that he had foiinci the Sources of the Nile 
in 11° S.; that since he (Grant) had not discovered 
traces of gorillas, or cannibals, or of natives eating 
pigs, he could not but think that Livingstone had gof: 
much further west than he supposed. Soon after, 
Dr. Charles Beke rose to give his opinions upon the 
subject, viz., Livingstone's discoveries. Beke was 
certain Livingstone had not discovered the Sources 
of the Nile. The most important objection to this 
theory of the Lualaba being the Nile arose from Dr. 
Schweinfurth's explorations. This eminent botanist 
had discoN ered the Uielle, a large river flowing from 
east to west, in lat. 3° 45', and it appeared that that 
river rose in the Blue Mountains, to the west of 
Albert N'Yanza, and completely cut off the basin of 
the Nile. Sir Henry Eawlinson, after a complimentary 
reference to myself, said that he had strong misgivings 
as to whether Livingstone was upon the Nile basin, and 
that he believed the Lualaba terminated in some grand 
central lake, the discovery of which he sincerely hoj^ed 
would crown Livingstone's labors. 

Now let us analyse the motives which underlie these 
adverse opinions ; we shall then know what value to 
place on them. Colonel Grant was the companion of 
Speke in his famous march to Gondokoro from Zanzibar, 
and he believes implicitly that Speke discovered 
the Nile source in the river issuing from the Victoria 
N'Yanza, and running north-west to a lake, a corner of 
which Sir Samuel Baker subsequently discovered. As 
a friend of Speke's, and as his companion during the 
expedition, the gallant gentleman dislikes to hear any 
other person claiming to have discovered another Nile 
source. It is a piece of chivalrous friendship on his 
part, I will admit ; but what does Colonel Grant know 



68G EOW 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE. 

personally about Speke's source of the Nile ? Let Speke 
himself testify: " I arranged that Grant should go to 
Kamrasi's direct, with the property, cattle, and women, 
taking my letters and a map for immediate despatch to 
Petherick, at Gani, whilst I should go up the river to 
its source or exit from the lake, and come down again, 
navigating as far back as practicable." 

This is evidence to prove that, personally. Grant never 
saw the river issuing out of the Victoria N'Yanza. With 
the utmost good faith and blissful innocence he struck off 
overland about sixty miles to Kamrasi's, whither he went 
like an ordinary messenger to convey Speke's despatches, 
and while he is gone Speke discovers the " Ripon Falls," 
and then marches after Grant to Unyoro. The defence of 
Speke is chivalry j>?ar excellence ; but it is not geography. 
Never was such a costly expedition so barren of results 
as this of Speke and Grant. From merely having seen 
a southern and a northern point of some lake, Speke 
has sketched a large body of water covering an area of 
over 40,000 square miles. 

Because Grant saw neither gorillas, nor cannibals, nor 
people eating pigs, he fancies that Livingstone has been 
much further west than he thought he was. This is absurd. 
I myself saw the cannibals of Ubembe and Usansi, and 
heard of the cannibals of Manyuema from all the Arabs 
at Ujiji. Baker heard of cannibals two hundred miles 
west of Gondokoro. Burton and Speke saw the can- 
nibals of Ubembe. But Livingstone was 4° of longitude 
further west than the western shore of the Tanganika. 
What becomes now of Grant's objections ? As for tribes 
'* eating pigs," almost every tribe throughout Africa 
eats the flesh of wild boar. I have never heard of tribes 
keeping tame pigs ; but Livingstone has seen them, and 
there is every good reason to believe that the Manyuema 



VALEDIGTOliY. 687 

are a superior tribe to any we meet east, near the 
equator. 

Sir Henry Eawlinson, the President of the Royal 
Geographical Society, is an ardent supporter of tlie 
theory that all fresh-water lakes must have an outlet ; 
yet, at the same time, he thinks the great Eiver Lualaba 
terminates in a marsh, or a fresh-water lake, which has 
no outlet. Is not Sir Henry thus a little inconsistent ? 
If all fresh- water lakes must naturally have an efBuence, 
why should the " great inland lake," which is supposed 
to receive the Lualaba, have no effluence ? 

Yet, for the defence of Livingstone after this style, 
Mr. F. Galton, the President of the Geographical 
Section of the British Association, with remarkable 
suavity, charged me with being a sensationalist. 

Why ? Livingstone started to discover the Ngami, 
held on his way dauntlessly, and his efforts were 
crowned with its discovery. Francis Galton undertook 
to discover the Lake Ngami. How he succeeded, let 
his companion, Andersson, relate (Andersson's ' Lake 
Ngami,' page 238): "I must confess that on first per- 
using my friend's (Galton's) narrative, I was somewhat 
startled on coming upon his pleasant assertion that he 
did not much care about reaching the Lake Ngami. It 
is true that, when landing at Walfisch Bay, we had but 
little hope of arriving there ; but at least for my own 
part, I had always conceived the great goal of our 
journey to be precisely the Ngami." Again, see page 
251 : "Galton appeared delighted with the prospect of 
soon returning to civilized life. Though he had proved 
himself to be capable of enduring hardships and fatigue 
as well as any of us, it was evident that he had had 
enough of it." Page 240: ** Our failure (Galton and 
Andersson's) in not reaching the Lake Ngami deeply 



688 EOW I FO UND LIVINGSTONE. 

mortified me." Page 252: ''Not long subsequently 
to his return, the Royal Geographical Society, I was 
happy to learn, bestowed on him their gold medal, as a 
reward for his services in the cause of science." 

I cannot close this book without saying one word for 
the young gentlemen connected with the English 
" Livingstone Search and Relief Expedition." I must 
confess my utter inability to perceive what just grounds 
the Council of the Royal Greographical Society have to 
condemn them for returning. The money which 
supplied their outfit and stores was sul bc "ibed by 
the British public only for the relief of Dr. David 
Livingstone, at a time when they were informed that 
my Expedition had failed ; the advertisement which the 
Council put in the public journals was with the view of 
obtaining volunteer commanders to take the relief up to 
Dr. Livingstone. Messrs. Dawson, Henn, and Living- 
stone were those who were charged with that duty. At 
a meeting of the Society, Lieut. Dawson publicly an- 
nounced that, since the eyes of the British public were 
on him, the knowledge of that fact was all the more 
a stimulus to him to endeavor to clear up the mystery 
attending Livingstone's fate, or to find out his where- 
abouts. These young gentlemen departed from Eng- 
land for Zanzibar with the view of executing faithfully 
the instructions for the search and relief of Dr. Living- 
stone. When the commander arrived at Bagamoyo, 
the initial point on his line of route, he heard that Dr. 
Livingstone was found and relieved, and he hastened back 
to Zanzibar to consult with the British Consul, as he 
was commanded to do ; who advised him that, under 
the circumstances, it was useless for him to continue the 
mission : he heard also through the same medium, cor- 
roborated by a certain postscript in a certain Blue Book, 



VALEDICTORY. 68» 

that Dr. Livingstone was inimical to the geographers at 
home. Whereupon the commander (Lieut. Dawson) 
resigned, because he had been led to believe that his 
presence would be distasteful to Dr. Livingstone. 
Lieut. Henn next undertook to guide tlie relief party ; 
but just as he arrived at the initial point, I appeared 
upon the field in person, and informed him, in reply to 
questions as to whether Dr. Livingstone was in need of 
supplies, that the traveller had all the supplies he 
required, except a few luxuries, and fifty good 
freemen, according to a list which I produced for his 
examination. He also returned to Zanzibar, consulted 
with his friend Dr. Kirk, and resigned the command to 
Mr. Oswald Livingstone. Lastly, this gentleman, who 
is a son of the traveller, undertook to lead a relief 
party to his father. But this young gentleman was 
beginning to suffer from a severe malady, which in the 
opinion of his father's friend Dr. Kirk would totally 
incapacitate him from undertaking such a journey. 
He therefore, though with great reluctance, formally 
resigned. 

In a spirit of candor and fair play, let us see who is 
responsible for the withdrawal and return of the English 
search party. In my humble opinion, it is not Lieut. 
Dawson, nor any of his companions. Tliey were told 
to go and relieve Livingstone, but to consult with 
Dr. Kirk. If Dr. Kirk advised the party not to go 
on, because he thought Dr. Livingstone would dislike 
their presence, the young gentlemen, in my opinion, 
did perfectly right in returning; because he, as chosen 
umpire of their fortunes, had a right to advise them 
to return, if, in his opinion, the fact of their presence 
in Unyanyembe would be objectionable to Dr. Living- 
stone. But I disagree with Dr. Kirk, if he opines that 

2 Y 



69C BOW I FO UND LI VINGSTONE, 

it would be objectionable. I know Dr. Livingstone 
would have welcomed them if the young men came 
to do him a service, and that, so far as he was 
concerned, they might pick up the " threads of 
his work." I agree with him, though, that their 
presence was unnecessary, their relief not required. I 
differ also with Dr. Kirk, that Dr. Livingstone has had 
a quarrel with the Royal Geographical Society, or is 
inimical to its members in any way. During the four 
months I lived with him, I never heard him utter 
a word against the Eoyal Geographical Society. 
Almost all his personal friends are members of this 
same Society. 

But the real and prime cause of the collapse of the 
expedition was the omission on the part of the Council 
to instruct the commander, Lieut. Dawson, what to do, 
in the event of meeting with me with Dr. Livingstone's 
despatches and letters, and receiving the assurance 
that he was well and amply supplied with stores. Had 
they officially admitted that it was possible the 
American Expedition had already succeeded on its 
errand of mercy and charity, and had prepared the 
young men for this contingency, the Council had now no 
need to charge Lieut. Dawson or his companions with 
disloyalty or impotence, nor Lieut. Dawson and his 
gallant companions to feel regret that they voluntarily 
offered their fortunes and their lives in the service of 
the Society. Since the Council omitted this most 
important article of instructions, the members of the 
Council themselves, and they alone, are responsible 
for tlie collapse of the English Search and Relief Ex- 
pedition. 

And now, my dear reader, I must close. I have 
bidden a farewell to the Wagogo, with their wild 



POSTSCRIPT. 691 

effrontery ; to MIonvu, chief of tribute-talcers and blaclc- 
mailers ; to the noisy clatter of the Wavinza ; to the 
inhospitable Warundi ; to the Arab slave-traders and 
half-castes ; to all fevers, remittent and intermittent ; 
to Makata swamps and crocodiles ; to brackish watci\« 
and howling plains ; to my own dusky friends and 
faithful followers ; to the Hero-traveller and Christian 
gentleman, Livixgstoxe ; and to you, Critics, and all 
friends and enemies — ona and all — 1 bid you farewell •! 



POSTSCRIPT. 



I WISH to say that in the course of this book I have 
written some rough things respecting certain geographers: 
and others. If, in so doing, I have touched \\ e 
feelings of any individual, I regret it. My apology is, 
that what I have written is the outcome of my feeh'no-g 
at the time I was writing; I am a travellei' and a 
journalist, more accustomed to rapid writing than to 
polished diction, but I have preferred to let tlieye thouglits 
and impressions stand as they are, and for what they 
are worth, rather than have them edited into a style 
which might have been infinitely better in a liter ny 
point of view, but which would not have beon mine. 

At the very last moment, and when these sheets had 
nearly all been printed off, I was not less gratified tlian 
I confess I was surprised to receive an invitation to 
dine with the members of the Royal Geographical 
Society. Somehow, ever since, and indeed almost 
before, my landing in England, the impression had 
become fixed in my mind that the humble service 
which I have been providentially permitted to render 



692 EOW J FOUND LIVINGSTONE, 

to geographical science in finding out and in rescuing 
the great Explorer, and in bringing to England the 
results of his many years of toil, was a performance 
not welcome to the Royal Geographical Society. That 
impression may have given a tone of bitterness to some 
of the remarks in my book ; with all candour, I am now 
willing to admit, that that impression was unfounded. 
Gieat bodies move slowly : I was impatient ; and, 
doubtless, I was wrong in my hopes and anticipations 
that the story I had to tell would be received at once 
without hesitation and without doubt or cavil. I had 
tliought that for the sake of my story I should have 
been received at once by the Royal Geographical 
Society, but I had not wei^'hed the difficulties which 
necessarily surround the movements of so august and 
scientific a body. The mills of the gods are said to 
grind slowly but surely; in like manner the Royal 
Geographical Society discovered slowly but surely that 
I \vas not a charlatan, and that I had done what I said 
I had done, and ti.en they extended to me the right 
hand of fellowship with a warmth and generosity which 
I shall never forget. I beg now to assure the members 
of the Royal Geographical Society that their recognition 
of my poor services is not the less welcome to me 
because it comes somewhat late. Especially do I thank 
Sir Henry Rawlinson, not only for the kind and 
generous words he spoke of myself, but also for the 
noble and handsome manner in which he withdi'ew a 
remark he once hastily made before he knew me, and 
when he was unaw^are of certain facts which have since 
come to light. I will only add that next to the honor 
which Her Majesty the (^neen of England has done 
me I shall ever treasure the medal of the Royal 
Geographical Society, 



APPENDIX. 



The fotlc;«^r^^ /rx^resting abstracts, taken from the Eoyal Geo- 
grapLical Socie^j's Proceedings, are published with the permission oi 
Mr. Bates, Permanent Secretary, R.G.S. : 

The President read to the meeting the following official 1( Iter, which he 
had received from Lord Clarendon, Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs, in 
reply to his petition urging upon the Government to grant aid to Dr. Livinii- 
stone. He was sure they would all unite with him in returning tlie grateful 
thanks of the Society to Lord Clarendon and her IMajcoty's Government for 
the communication. 

" Foreign Office, ^lay 19, 1870. 

" Sir, — I have lost no time in submitting to my colleagues your ohserva- 
tions upon the position in which Dr. Livingstone is [>laced in consequence of 
his want of momy, and her Majebty's Government have not failed to consider 
all you have urged in favour of a further grant to the distinjjuished traveller, 
viz., that he has strugghd without aid or communication with England for the 
last three years ; that, by the last accounts, lie ha^l reached a point fmrn which 
he can neither advance nor retreat without supplies ; and that the money 
granted to him at his departure being exhausted, further funds are earnestly 
required to provide a fresh equipment and the means of conveying it into the 
interior. 

** I have now great pleasure in informing you that her Majesty's Govern- 
ment are prepared to authorise a grant of £1000 on account of Dr. Living- 
stone's expedition, in the earnest hope that the sum may be the means of 
promoting his return in safety to this country. 

" I am, Sir, your obedient humble servant, 

" Clabendon." 
•* Sir R. L MuRCDisoN, Bart." 

On the 23rd of May, 1870, Sir R. Murchison speaks as follows of hii 
*friend Dr. Livingstone : 

Throughout the past year we have been kept in a state of anxious suspense 
respec<:ing the position of our great traveller Livingstone, and I grieve to close 
this address without being able to offer some encouraging sentences on liiG 
prospect of speedily welcoming him home. At the same time, there is no 



694 APPENDIX, 

cause for despondency as to his life and safety. We know that he has Iccn 

for some time at. Ujiji on the Lnke Tanganyika, whence he wrote home on the 
30th of May last, though unahle to make any movement for want of carriera 
and supplies. These were, indeed, forwarded to him by Dr. Kirk from Ziin- 
zibar, when, alas ! an outbreak of cholera stopped and paralysed the relieving 
party. Recent intelligence, however, has reached the Foreign Office to the 
effect that the pestilence had subsided to so great an extent that we may 
presume the communication between the coast and Ujiji has before now heea 
re-opened. 

The work which still lies before Livingstone lias been often adverted to, 
and it is hoped that he will live to advance to the north end of the Tanganyika, 
and there ascertain if its waters flow into the Albert Nyifnza of Baker. If the 
junction should he proved we may indulge the thought that, informed as 
Livingstone must now be of the actual carrying out of the great project of 
Sir Samuel Raker, he may endeavour to meet his great contemporary. The 
progress of the great Egyptian expedition of Baker having been delayed in its 
outset, we knuw that it only left Khartoum to ascend the White Nile in 
February. Alter reaching Gondokoro, as was expected to be the case, in the 
tirst days of March, some time must necessarily elapse in establishing a factory 
above the upper rapids and beyond the tributary Asua, where the steam 
vessels are to be put together before they are launched on the Nile water, on 
which they are to pass to tl.e great lake Albert Nyanza. As soon, however, 
as a stean)er is on that lake we may be assured that Baker, with his well- 
known energy and i)romptitude, will lose not a moment in the endeavour to 
reach its southern end, in the expectation of there giving hand and help to 
Livingstone. Let us therefore cherish this cheering hope, which would indeed 
he the most happy consummation our hearts can desire. 

The British public will be much better informed than they have been on 
this subject when they examine a recent small work by Mr. Keith Johnston, 
jun. In this pamphlet the author has given a succinct history of all the 
explorations in South Africa, and has also put together from the best autho- 
rities (l^etermann and others) a map which shows clearly to what extent the 
tivers which flow from the southern highlands, on the south and S.S.W. of Lake 
Tangamika, are for the most part independent of that lake, and may p'ove to 
be tributaries of the Congo. On the other hand, the streams which enter the 
Lake Tanganyika through the Lake Liemha of Livingstone, are probably the 
ultimate sources of the Nile itself, while the Kasni and other streams 
which feed the lakes Bangweclo and Moero may be found to issue in the 
Congo. 

If this last hypothesis should prove to be true, the waters which Living- 
stone has been the first to explore will be found to be the sources both of the 
Nile and the Congo. As respects the Nile, however, my sagacious friend 
must feel that until he proves that some of these waters of the Tanganyika 
flow into the Albert Nyanza, the problem in regard to the Nile remains 
unsolved. 

In the meantime the Nile hypothesis of Mr. Findlay and others (that the 
Lake Tanganyika will be found to unite with the Albert Nyanza) is, accord- 
ing to the now estimated relative altitudes of these southern waters, the 
most probable. God grant that the illustrious Livingstone may demonstrate 



APPENDIX, 695 

this to bo the case, and that we shall soon see him at home as the dis- 
coverer of the ultimate sources of both the Nile and the Congo. 

On this important and exciting subject it is gratifying to state that our 
medallist, Dr. P( termann, l.as laid down, on a general map of South Africa 
in the last number of his 'Mittheilungen,* that which he terras a chronological 
sketch of all Livingstone's wonderful and arduous travels from 1841 to 1861). 
In respect to the tributaries of the Congo, the map of Petermann differs hypo- 
thetically from th^t of Mr. Keith Johnston, jun,, inasmuch as he indicates 
that the waters of the Bangweolo, Moero, and Ulenge lakes i^robably point 
to north and by cast; and if this should prove to be the case they also will 
fall into the great Albert Nyanza of Baker. 

In concluding the consideration of this absorbing topic, I rejoice to be 
enabled to state, tliat in consequence of my representing to Lord Clarendon 
the isolated position of Livingstone at Ujiji, where he was without carriers or 
supplies, whilst he was, comparatively, near his ultimatum, the north end of 
the Lake Tanganyika, her Majesty's Government have kindly afi'orded the 
means whereby the great traveller may be efiectively relieved belore he returns 
to his admiring country. 

In the address of the President of the Royal Geographical Society, 
it is stated that great credit is to be assigned to Dr. Beke, Mr. Arrow- 
smith, and Mr. Findlay, for their support on theorttical grounds of 
the great southerly extent of the Nile basin, should the great modern 
problem of the southern watershed of the Nile be solved. 

Credit for theory ! Then, now that Sir R. Murchison, the consistent 
friend of Dr. Livingstone, is dead, and Dr. Beke has retracted his 
support of the above theory, what credit shall be assigned to Dr. Beke 
by Sir H. Rawl nson for the theoretical support this gentleman gives 
to the same watershed being, not that of the Nile, but the Congo's? 

At the 14th Meeting of the Royal Geographical S( ciety, held 
13th of June, 1870, it will be observed that the President of the 
Royal Geographical Society states that no expedition for the search of 
Livingstone had ever been intended. My orders were given me to go 
after Livingstone in October, 1869. The Royal Geographical Society 
then should not charge me with doing that which they intended to do, 
and should not feel anger at my having found him, since I clashed 
not with their duties. 

The rRFSiOKNT, before proceeding to the consideration of the papers that 
were to be reail, explained to the meeting the nature of the succonr that 
had, to the great credit of the Earl of Clart-ndon and her Majesty's Govern- 
ment, been sent to Dr. Livingstone. There had been much misajiprehen- 
sion on the matter, judging from the numerous applications he had received 
from active young men anxious to go in search of i)r. Livingstone, it being 
813 ppot^ed liiat there was an expedition about to start for that purpose from 
this country. No such expedition hud, however^ been intended. Dr. Living- 
stone had been more than three yeai'S and a half in the heart of Africa without 



696 APPENDIX, 

a single European attendant. He (the President) was not sure that the sight 
• 'fan unacclimatised young gentleman sent out from England would not pro- 
>lucea very bad effect upon the Doctor, because, in addition to his other labours, 
iie would have to take care of the new arrival. He had therefore to announce 
that the £1000 which the Government had given will be sent by Mr. Churchill, 
the Consul of Zanzibar, who happens, accidentally, to be in this country, and 
who is going out immediately. He will instruct Dr. Kirk to fit out a similar 
expedition to that which started last year, but which was impeded by an attack 
iA' cholera. The epidemic has greatly subsided, and the only difficulty now is 
U) get to Ujiji, where Dr. Livingstone was when last heard of, unable to move 
forwards or backwards for want of carriers and supplies. It will take two 
months or more for these supplies to reach Ujiji from Zanzibar, therefore 
all anxiety must be put aside for months to come. In about seven or eight 
months good news might be expected, and soon after that he (the President) 
hoped we might see our friend again in his native country. 

Letter from Mr. Churchill, Consul at Zanzibar, concerning 
Dr. Livingstone. 

" Zanzibar, November 18, 1870. 

*'Mt Lord, — After a vast amount of delay, that will appear unnecessary 
to those who are not acquainted with the country, I have succeeded in send- 
ing oft' to Dr. Livingstone a reinforcement of sevtn men, who have engaged to 
place themselves at the disposal of the Doctor, as porters, boatmen, «.Vc., and 
a quantity of beads, clothes, and provisions for his use. He will receive, by 
the same opportunity, the letters and ])apers confided to me by Lord Clan ndon 
and the Geographical Society, together with some wearing apparel sent by the 
Doctor's relatives. 1 am in hopes that these will reach Ujiji m the month of 
Febrnary, but nothing certain can be said about it. In a fntnre despatch I 
will send an accoiint of the expenditure attending this exiedition. News 
was received about a month ago of the arrival at Unyanyenibe, in June last, 
of men and sni>plies sent up in October 18G9 by Dr. Kirk ; seven of the men 
had died of cliolera, and the remainder, having consumed the ]irovisions for- 
warded lor th( m, had, with the advice of the Governor of Unyanyembe, drawn 
upon the supplies oi wiiich they were the bearers lor their subi^iistcTice. This, 
at first sight, appears preposterous; but on consideration it may be explained 
by the lact that, without sup[)lies from some source or other, the progress of 
the caravan would have been sto| jed, and, in the absence of an authority to 
that effect from the Sultan, the Governor of UnyanyLmbc refused to grant th 
necessary subsistence-money. 

"The latest accounts from the interior state that Dr. Livingstone, after 
visiting a place called Manime (Manyuema), had returned to Ujiji." 

The Chairman, in continuation, said the letter from Dr. Kirk, mentioned in 
Sir Roderick Murchison's letter to the Times, was three weeks later in date 
than that of Mr. Churchill, and as he (Dr. Kirk) did not state that Dr. Living- 
stone had really arrived at Ujiji, although deriving his information from the 
same source as Mr. Churchill, it would be seen that the latter had announced 
the event, as it were, by anticipation. Dr. Kirk merely said that a letter 
written in Arabic had been received from ihe Chief of LTnyanyembe, dated 
July, 1870, and stating that Livingstone was expected to arrive in Ujiji at the 
time as the men and stores which were then on their way to the same 



APPENDIX. 097 

place. It also stated that the traveller had been to a distant country called 
Manime. To understand the importance of this communication it was neces- 
sary to refer to the last letter written home by Dr. Livingstone himself. It 
was one addressed to Dr. Kirk from Ujiji, and dated the 30th of May, 1869. 
In it Livingstone said, " As to the work to be done by me, it is only to con- 
nect the sources which I have discovered, from 500 to 700 miles south of 
Speke and Baker's, with their Nile. The volume of water which flows north 
from lat. 12° S. is so large, I suspect that I have been working at the sources 
of the Congo as well as those of the Nile. 1 have to go down the eastern line 
of drainage to Baker's turning-point, Tanganyika, Nyige Chowambe (Baker's?) 
are one water, and the head of it is 300 miles south of this. The outflow of 
this, whether to Congo or Nile, I have to ascertain. The people west of this, 
called Manyema, are cannibals, if Arabs speak truly. I may have to go there 
first, and down Tanganyika, if I come out uneaten, and find my new squad 
from Zanzibar." 

The following is an important letter from Dr. Kirk, written a day 
or 60 after his return from a hunting excursion he made to Kikoka, 
the first camp beyond the Kingani : 

" Zanzibar, 18th February, 1871. 

•'My Lord, — I have the honour to report that, infoimation having reached 
rae, through a native, that the men sent off by Mr. Churchill with stores for 
Dr. Livingstone, as reported in his despatch of the 18rh of November, 1870, were 
still at Bagamoyo, n (^^iist town on the opposite main-land, auii had not taken 
any steps to procure porters and proceed on their journey, I determined, if 
possible, to go myself and see them off. Captain Tucker, commanding H.M.S. 
Columbine^ on my request, kindly offered to place his ship at my disposal for 
this ])urpose. 

'* On reaching Bagamoyo I found that the men referred to were still living 
in the village, while Arab caravans set out on the same journey. It is true 
that porters this year are difticult to obtain, few of the people of Unyamwezi 
having come down in consequence of deaths last year from cholera among 
their friends. 

" However, by using rriy influence with the Arabs I succeeded at once in 
sendmg off all but lour loads, and followed inland one day's journey myself. 
The remaining four loads I arranged on my return were to be taken as far 
as Unyanyembe by an Arab caravan, and thence sent to Ujiji by Said bin 
Salim, the governor. 

" Once fairly oflf on the road, there is little to induce these people to 
delay ; whereas at Bagamoyo, living in good huts among their own people, 
and thinking that there, unknown, they might enjoy themselves and earn 
monthly pay, had I not gone in person they might have loitered yet several 
months. 

" While passing along the trade route on the short excursion I made from 
Bagamoyo we met several caravans on their way from Unyamwezi, Urori, &c. ; 
and by questioning the natives as well as the leaders, found that no news had 
been received lately at XTnyanyembe from Ujiji, and nothing known of Dr. 
Livingstone. All were aware that he had gone on a journey from which he 
had not yet returned up to the latest dates. 

" The country I passed through after crossing the River Kingani was like a 
beautitul park and woodland, full of all sorts of big game, includmg the 
giraffe, eland, zebra, harte-beeste, wild-beeste, &c., some of which I shot not 



698 APPENDIX, 

more than twelve miles from the coast town of Bap^amoyo. The Kinganf 
River was full of hippopotami, and on its hanks wild buffaloes were found. 

" Unlbrtunately, wherever the giraffe exists in numbers this rich and com- 
paratively healthy region is intested by the tsetse fly, so dangerous to cattle 
ind horses. 

" On my return to Bagamoyo I devoted a day to the study of the French 
mission estaV»lishment and iheir management of freed slaves. On this 1 shall 
(io myself the honour to submit a separate report to your Lordship. 

'• Since niy visit four years ago I found the town of Baganioyo to have 
trebled its extent. NTarive huts were fast being replaced by stone buildings, 
and here, as elsewhere on the coast, the trade is rapidly passing into the hands 
ji the Kutchees. 

" John Kirk." 

"DR. KIRK AND DR. LIVINGSTONE. 
« To the Editor of ' The Daily Telegraph.' 

" C8, Portsdown Road, Maida Vale, July 25th, 1872. 

" Sir, — I have read with great interest your correspondent's account of the 
interview he had yesterday at Marseilles with Mr. Stanley, the discoverer of 
Dr. i.iviiigstone, and 1 feel called upon to stand by my triend Dr. Kirk. Let 
me bigin by saving that if there has been any neglect at Zanzibar in conimu- 
nicating with l>r. Livingstone, i, as the political agent and Mer Majesty's 
consul there during the last five years, must sliMre with Dr. Kirk the Ijlame, 
as within that lap>e of linie 1 am responsible for what apathy may have been 
displayed while 1 w;is at my post — viz., upwards of two yeais. 

" During my fiis' stny at Zanzibar (from June, 1807, to April, 1869\it will 
be reineihbered that Dr. L'vingstone was supposed to have been killed ; so 
that very few, if any, letters were sent to Zanzibar for him. I can vouch for 
the lact that no leiters passed through my hands during the whole of that 
time. 

" In compliance with Dr. Livingstone's request, I sent to Ujiji, towards the 
middle of the yi ar 1868, a certain quantity of supplies and me«iicines, but I 
am not awate that any private letters were sent, except those that Dr. Kirk 
an<l 1 wrote to him, lor the reason tlat is mentioned above. On a previous 
occasion Dr. Seward had sent up, via Kilwa, quinine and stores, which were 
to await the Doc'or's arrival at Ujiji. In both these expeditions Dr. Kirk's 
valuable assistance wa>t readily obtained, and I must here bear testimony to 
the great interest that Di. Kirk always took in anything connected with his 
friend Dr. i^.ivingstone. On no occasion did 1 ever perceive the slightest 
indication of jealousy on the part of Dr. Kirk. 

'* Alter my departure from Zanzibar in April, 1869, Dr. Kirk organised a 
further expedition, consisting of fourteen men and a large caravan of supplies, 
to meet the great tr<veller at Ujiji. Cholera intervened and delayed this 
expedition, and out ot the fourteen men only seven reached Unyan}embe, 
There the remaining party appear to have helped themselves out of the 
supplies ; but for this Dr. Kirk surely cannot be blamed ; and, alter all it was 
better that they should have done this than have declared themselves unable 
to proceed on their journt-y ibr want of nuans of subsistence. 

"On my return to Zanzibar in August, 1870, furnished as I was with 
am[)le means by Her Majesty's Government, I prepared a third ex))edition, 
and chose seven men who knew the country in the neighbourhood of Ujiji to 
replace those who were reported to have died ; with instructions to proceed to 
Ujiji, and there to await Dr. Livingstone's arrival ; but the road was unsafe, 
and no caravan would venture up country for a considerable time after the 
expedition was organised, so that it was detained at Bagamoyo until after my 



APPENDIX, 699 

departure on sick leave in the following December. This is the caravan 
mentioned by Mr. Stanley as having left Bagamoyo two days bo fore Dr. Kirk'8 
visit to the coast in the (Mumbine. With it wenttlie letters an 1 parcels tliat 
I ha'l taken out to Zanzibar for Dr. Livingstone. Kirk is said to have made 
shooting the jirimary oliject of his visit to Bagamoyo and to h;ive nciilected 
the caiavjm altogether; but Mr. Stanley's own statement siiows that the 
caravan had already started when Kirk readied that sjiot ; and surely a village 
of 500 inhabitants is r.ot so large that he could iiot learn in ten niinnfes how 
m;ittcrs stood. If, therefore, ht^ went out on a shootmo; excmsioi! with the 
officers of the Colxmhine, he did so knowing that the object < f his jioing to 
Bagamoyo was accomplished. Mr. Stanley's statement would indc d show 
that the simple rumour of Dr. Kirk's approaching arrival liad had the good 
effect of puttinsi the caravan in motion. 

"To those who arc unacquainted with Zanzibar, the statement that eleven 
packages of letters from home, sent to Mr. Staidey in the course ot nine 
months, had reached Ujiji, while in tliree years Dr. Livingstone had not been 
able to receive a single letter, would certainly appear strange; but let rae 
explain that in every likelihood those eleven packages, together with the tele- 
gram, were received at Zanzibar by the same mail, and that they v\cre sent up 
to Ujiji by the same messenger. One caravan may pass throui:h the country 
where another may fail to reach its destination; and the very figlit that 
occurred at Unyanyemlie, in which Mr. Stanley was involved, may have 
Cleared the way for future caravans. But I have only to mention Mr. Stanley's 
own adventures to show the difficulties that sometimes attend caiavans on 
their way to Ujiji ; and if Dr. Livinustone, on the other hand, did not get 
any letters, it is because, as I have shown, no letters were written to him, his 
Iriends believing him to be dead. 

"I ho))e Mr Stanley has given Dr. Kirk the opj)Ortunity of justifying him- 
self; bnt, however this may be, I have felt it my duty to come forward and 
make known to the public, through your columns, the sympathy and friendly 
feeling that Dr. Kirk has always entertained for his old friend and fellow- 
traveller, Dr. Livingstone. 

" I am, Sir, 

"Your obedient humble servant, 

*' Hy. i\ . Churchill." 

Here is a letter which will make Dr. Livingstone smile as it 
makes me. It is from the " moral idiot " Sherif, the half-caste tailor, 
who divined on the Koran that Dr. Livingstone was dead, and upon 
this divination sold the Doctor's goods for ivory : 

(Communicated by the Foreign Office through Lord ENriELD.) 

" Zanzibar, March 10, 1871. 

" My Lord, — I have the honour to forward, in translation, copies of letters 
ust received from Ujiji, from which it will be seen that u[) to five montha 
• go Dr. Livingstone was at a place named Manakoso, and only awaiting the 
men aid supplies sent ofi" by me last year, and that they have now reached 
him, oi at least been forwarded from Ujiji to the place where he is. 

" Jt being now time to close letters for transmission by the present occasion, 
I shall not be able to make inquiry among the Arabs acquamted with these 
parts as to the ^x^sitiou of the places named, but which 1 suppose are on the 
wdstcrn side of the lake. 

«« John Kirk." 



70© APPENDIX. 

(Translation.) 
" To Consul KiBK from Sherif Basheikh bin Ahmed. 

" I have to inform you that on the 15th of Shaban (10th November) a 
messenger came from the people of Menama with letters from the Arabs who 
are there, and one from the Doctor, and these letters were dated the 20th 
Kejib (15th October). 

" In answer to my inquiries they told me that the Doctor was well, althou^jh 
he had been suffering, and that he is for the present at the town of Manakoso 
with Mohamed bin Gharib, waiting for the caravans, being helpless, without 
means and with few followers — only eight men — so that he cannot move 
elsewhere or come down. 

*' We have sent off twelve of our men with American cloth, kaniki, beads, 
sugar, coffee, salt, two pair of shoes, shot, powder, and soap, and a small bottle 
of medicine (quinine). 

"All that he was in need of we have sent to him, and I remain at Ujiji 
awaiting his orders. 

" Dated 20th Shaban, 1287 (15th November, 1870). 

" True translation. John Kirk." 

The following was read : 

Sir HoDERTCK MuEcnisoN communicated that he had received a letter from 
Dr. Kirk, dated 30th April, 1871, in which he stated that although no one 
at Zanzibar had been to Manemeh (the place where Dr. Livingstone was last 
heard of), he had ascertained that it was about a month's journey, say 200 or 
300 miles, west of Tanganyika, and is a thriving ivory mart. 

Dr. Kirk is of opinion that Livingstone had been led thither to examine a 
western lake he had heard of, and into which the waters from Cazembe 
flowed, and to ascertain whether they go to the west and the Congo or to 
the north and Nile basin. He further hopes that if Livingstone should have 
settled the outflow of the Tanganyika he will be satisfied, and leave all the 
rest of the work to future travellers, seeing that he has been out upwards of 
five years and must sorely want rest. 

It is satisfactory to know that abundant supplies are waiting for the Doctor 
at Ujiji on his return. 

Dr. Kirk adds, that as the rains will soon be over he can send any letters 
or parcels to Ujiji in about a month, th9.t is, about the 1st of June. 

The President said he found some difficulty in believing that there was an 
interval of nearly 300 miles between Manakoso and Lake Tanganyika. The 
letter received from Livingstone by the Arabs in charge of his stores at Ujiji 
was only twenty-five days in transit. Now the average rate of travelling in 
those countries was only ten miles a day ; so that, judging from the time 
occupied by the transit of the letters, there could only be an interval of 250 
miles between Ujiji and Manakoso, including the passage of the lake. It was, 
moreover, satisfactory to find that Livingstone was not stationed in an un- 
known cannibal territory, as had been supposed, but in a thriving ivory mart, 
between which and the sea-coast there was a constant trade communication." 

June 26th, 1871. — Sir Henry Eawlinson in his Presidential Address 
under this date, said, among other things relating to geographical 
matters : 



APPENDIX. 701 

With regard also to our other great African explorer, Dr. Livingstone, we 
are still kept in a state of the most paiuful suspense. We learn by the last 
reports from Dr. Kirk at Zanzibar, dated in the middle of August, that the 
Arab merchants with whom Dr. Livingstone had travelled from the south up 
to Mauyemeh, had passed on from that place to Ujiji, and early in the month 
of June were daily expected at Unyanyembe. From Livingstone himself, 
however, no direct intelligence had recently reached Zanzibar, and it was only 
by inference that Dr. Kirk supposed him to be still at Manyemeh. The 
second batch of supplies intended for him had in the mean time passed on 
through Unyanyembe, en route to Ujiji, and Dr. Kirk was anxiously 
awaiting news of the arrival of the American traveller, Mr. Stanley, at that 
place. This gentleman, who is said to be of the true exploring type, left 
Bagamoyo on the coast for Ujiji in February last, and intended to communi- 
cate with Livingstone before proceeding further into the interior, so that we 
must receive before long, from this, if not from any other quarter, some definite 
intelligence of our great traveller's i)resent condition and his plans for the 
future. Those who know Mr. Stanley personally are much impressed with 
his determined character and his aptitude for African travel. His expedition 
is vvell equipped, nnd he enjoys the great advantage of having secured the 
services of ' Bombay,* the well-known factotum of Speke and Grant. He is 
entirely dependent, I may add, on his own resources, and is actuated apparently 
by a mere love of adventure and discovery ; and I need liardly say that if he 
sticceeds in restoring Livingstone to us, or in assisting him to solve the great 
problem of the upper drainage into the Kile and Congo, he will be welcomed 
by this Society as heartily ajid as warmly as if he were an English explorer 
actins; under our own immediate auspices. 

It will be seen from the above that Sir Henry Rawlinson was 
inclined to be C( mplimentary when speaking of me at that date. 

The next letters received about Dr. Livingstone and myself are 
dated 25th and 22nd of September, 1871, and are as follows: 

" Zanzibar, September 25, 1871. 

" Dear Sir Roderick, — You will see, by the account sent to the Foreign 
Office, tliMt difficulties have sprung up in Unyamwezi and cut off Ujiji from 
the coast ; and as it happens no Ujiji news has been received for some time 
back, we may be a long time in getting any certainty of Dr. Livingstone's 
movements. 

"All I can say is, that I lack reports from that place : neither he nor his 
Arab friend Mohamed bin Gharib had arrived ; but there was a story, which I 
think worthless, to the effect that they were both to go round the south end 
by wa > of Wemba. 

♦* I can yet gft no correct account of Manyema : every one knows it, but 1 
find no one who has been there. I have seen people who have crossed the 
Tanganyika from Ujiji, and seen the Manyema caravans setting out, but it 
seems to be rather a new and special line of trade. 

" 1 am glad that the Governor of Unyanyembe is to be removed: he is the 
one on whom the war there is laid, and if he had been killed we should all 
have been belter satisfitd. 

" Mr. Stanley was at Unyanyembe and in the fight, but the Arabs aban- 
doned him ; lour of his men were killed, but he escaped. His prospect of 
getting on is at present small, but I really cannot say where he desires to go 



702 APPENDIX. 

to; he never disclosed his plans here. I sent up letters for Dr. Livinjistote 

uuder liiscMie, and put also the things (of the second lot — the first has reached 
Ujiji,) for IjivingstoDe into his hands. 

"I fancy he will make a point of meeting Livingstone first ; but whether, 
having seen wiiat is best to do, he v/ill push on or come back, 1 cannot say. 
He was ill of fever when he wrote, but has got tolerably well. 

" The men who came down return to-morrow, and ouiht to be there iu 
twenty-five days, for the road is fine, and grass and food |)lenty. 

" Believe me, dear Sir Roderick, yours most sincerely, 

"JohnKibk." 



" Zanzibar, September 22, 18V1. 

" My Lord, — Letters just received by special messengers, who left llnya- 
nyembe about a month ago, inform us of a sad disaster that has befallen the 
Arab settlement there, and that will in all likelihood Btop the road to Ujiji and 
Karague foi' some time to come. 

"All accounts agree as to the main I'acts ; but naturally the letters written 
by Mr. Stanley, an American gentleman, who was on the si)ot, are the most 
circumstantial and reliable. 1 am indebted to Mr. Webb, the American 
Consul here, for some details related in those letters, which will, no doubt, be 
published iu full elsewhere. Briefly the position is this : the Arab colony 
of the interior, whose centre is Unyanyembe, has for some time been led by 
a set of avaricious, unprincipled men, whose acts of extortion, both on natives 
and the poorer Arabs, have for some time back been complained of to Seyd 
Burghash, who is impotent to interfere at such a distance so long as things go 
well for the Arabs. A chief, whose village was one da\'s journey distance on 
the main road to Ujiji and Karague, fell under tiie displejisure of the Unya- 
nyembe setthrs, and his place was attaeked iu due course by a force of abou* 
1500 muskets. Seeing that he could not hold the blockaded village, he retired 
vvitli his followers, and formed an amlnish for the return of the attacking 
party, when laden with ivory and other booty The result was disa.stious to 
the Arabs, and a great many were killed, including teu or twenty of the 
leaders, men of good family here. The Arab reti'cat soon became a rout, and 
much ])roperty was lost. Fortunately Mr. Stanley, who was weak and ill 
from level-, managed to return to Unyan3embe, but he was abandoned by the 
Arabs, whose conduct he speaks of as cowardly in the extreme. 

" Such is the constant state of things in Central Afiica. The road to Ujiji 
will now be shut for a time, and when we may agnin hear of Dr. Livingstone 
is most uncertain. One of the men who came down now says that there was 
a rumour that Mahomed bin Gharib and the white man (Dr. Livingstone) 
would come back from Man^ema by way of Marungu and W'emba. The 
rcijort is worth nothing, 1 consider, but I may as well mention it. 

•' The last lot of things sent by Mr. Churchill had reached Unyanyembe, as 
1 have bel'oie reported; but 1 now learn that the headman, in whoS' charge 
they were, died the day alter setting out ibr Ujiji, and the goods were b]-ought. 
back to Unyanyembe. I have little faith now in the sheikh Saeed bin 
Saliiu, and shall write to Mr. Stanley, who will probably not have been able 
as yet to quit the place, and anthorize him to make such arrangements as he 
can to get the goods torwarded, or if not, to act for me to the hest of his 
judgment in jH-otecting them from plunder; but in such a state of things as 
this it will be most fortunate if they have escaped, and ever reach their 
destination. 

" The messengers will start on their return in a day or two, and should be 



APPENDIX, 703 

able to accom]ilish the journey easily in seventy or seventy-five days, for the 

way so far is open and food plenty. 

"To the Arab ivory trade the present position of aflFairs is most serious; 
they have now settled far up in the country, and collected about them 
thousands of slaves drawn from the country itself; these they cannot do 
without, and yet cannot trust ; they are all armed, and may turn against their 
masters. 

" The chief with whom they are at war is well provide<l with arms, and a 
caravHU of his is now on the way up with several hundred kegs ofpiii 
To stop these people on the way, the Wasagara have been told already to 
attack and phmder them; but this too may be but ihe beginning ol similar 
attacks on Arab caravans ; for the wild tribes, when ouce plunder has been 
encouraged, will care little whom they attack. 

" I have, &c., 

" John Kirk, 

" Acting Political Agent and Consul for Zanzibar. 
•* Earl Granville." 

Captain R. F. Burton said this was not the first time that disturbances 
had broken out between the Arab trading communities and the natives of 
Unyanyenibe and Unyamwezi. The present state of things might continue 
for two or three years; but if Livingstone wished to avoid passing tiirough 
that district there would be no difficulty in his returning by the south of 
Lake Tanganyika. At the same time, a white man like Livingstone, fearless, 
and speaking the native languages, would be able salely to [lass through 
places in which no black man dare venture. He had not the slightest fear 
with regard to Livingstone. He was convinced that the moment anything 
happened to him the news would rapidly spread to the coast, and the Society 
would hear of it almost as if it came by telegraph. 

November 27th — Sir Henry Rawljnson announced that he had a com- 
munication to make to the meeting on another subject in which the Geographical 
Society tuok an equally warm interest — namely. Dr. Livingstone. At the last 
meeting he had occasion to read certain letters which had been addressed by 
r>r. Kirk to our late revered President and to the Government of Bombay, in 
which hedesciibed the accidental outbreak of troubles in Africa which had cut off 
the communication between the sea-coast and Lake Tanganyika. The despatch 
on the same subject addressed by Ur. Kirk to the Foreign Office had since then 
been received, and proved to be a duplicate of that before read, addressed to 
the Government of Bombay. He wished now to announce the measures which 
the Council had that day i)roposed to undertake in consequence of the receipt 
of these letters. It appeared to the Council and himself, now, that the ho[)e 
wliich w'e had of communicating with Dr. Livingstone through Mr. Stanley, 
the American traveller, must for ihe present be abandoned ; and it had become 
consequently their duty to cast about for some other means of reaching him. 
Their intention now was to address the Foreign Office, witii a view of arranging, 
either directly from the Foreign Office or through co-operation betv.'eon the 
Foreign Office and our Society, some means of communicating with the interior 
district where Livingstone was supposed to be. One plan proposed was to send 
native messengers, offering a reward of one hundred guineas to whichever 
would bring back a letter in Dr. Livingstone's handwriting to the sea-coast; 



70t APPENDIX. 

another, recommended by one of our African travellers, was to organise a direct 
expedition headed by some experienced and well-qualified European. Which 
of those two arrangements might be most advisable to pursue would depend 
upon the result of their communication with the Foreign Office ; but the 
Society might rest assured that the Council would leave no means untried of 
ascertaining whether Dr. Livingstone was detained at Manyema, where he has 
been so long reported to be staying, in company with the Arab trader Mohamed 
bin Gharib. 

Mr. HoRMUZD Rassam, on being asked for his opinion, said his experience 
in Abyssinia taught him that the best way to get information from indi- 
viduals at a distance was by sending native messengers. On three different 
occasions he adopted this plan of communicating with the Magdala ca])tives 
from Massowah. He em[)loyed three different messengers — one Christian, 
another a Mohammedan, and a third a native of Western Abyssinia. He sent 
them by different routes, and was perfectly convinced that they were ignorant 
of each other's movements. One of them, it was true, concocted a letter and 
brought it back ; but the other two returned within ten days of the promised 
time with authentic intelligence. Several Arabs at Muscat, who had travelled 
as far as Lake Tanganyika, had assured him that there was no difficulty in 
going up and down with beads and other articles for barter. 

General Rigby felt convinced that the plan recommended by Mr. Rassam 
would entirely fail. In Abyssinia single travellers might go from one distant 
part of the country to another, but on the east coast of Africa tliey could not. 
All travellers must there be accompanied by caravans with a body of armed 
men. The only caravans that performed the journey to the lakes were those 
of traders, to whom the time occupied was of no moment, and if the Society 
de})ended on any single native going in with a caravan and having to wait until 
he could return with another, they might probably have to wait five years or 
more. He was convinced the only means of communicating with Livingstone 
and of rescuing him would be by sending an enterprising English traveller 
from Zanzibar with a small armed party, well provided with supplies. 

Mr. Rassam wished to add that he had communicated by means of mes- 
sengers with chiefs in the distant Galla country, to reach whom a journey of 
thirty or forty days was required. He thought there might be no harm in 
trying both plans. 

The President said the Council had decided first to try the plan of offering 
a reward to native messengers, and if that failed they might then undertake 
the more serious affair of sending an expedition. 

The following correspondence relating to supplies forwarded to 
Dr. Livingstone has been issued from the Foreign Office : 

" Dr. Livingstone to Dr. Kirk. 

*• Ujiji, October 30, 1871. 
" Sir, — 1 wrote on the 25th and 28th two very hurried letters, one for you 
and the other for Lord Clarendon, which were forwarded to Uuyanyembe. I 
had just reached this place, thoroughly jaded in body and mind, and found 
that your agent, Shereef Basha, had sold off all the goods you sent for slaves 
and ivory for himself. He had divined on the Koran and found that 1 was 



APPENDIX, 706 

dead. He also wrote to the Governor of Unyanyembe that he had sent slaves 
to Manyema, who returned and reported my decease, and he wished the per- 
mission of the Governor to sell the goods. He, however, knew from men who 
came from me in Manyema that I was near Ujiji, at Bambarre, and waiting 
for him and supplies; but when my friends here protested against the sale of 
my goods, he invariably answered, * You know nothing about the matter ; i 
alone know that the Consul ordered me to remain one month at Ujiji, and then 
sell off and return.' When I came, he said Ludha had so ordered him. From 
the Banian slaves you sent I learn that Ludha went to All hin Salim bin 
Rashid, a person notoriously dishonest, and he recommended Shereet Basha as 
leader of the caravan. No sooner did he obtain command than he went to 
Muhamad Nassur, who furnished twenty full boxes of soap and eight cases of 
brandy, to be retailed in the course of the journey inland. At Bagimioyo Shereef 
got a quantity of opium and gunpowder irom two Banians there, whose names 
are unknown to me. In their house Shereef broke the soap boxes and stored 
the contents in my bales; the brandy cases were kept entire, and pagnzi em- 
ployed to cany them and the opium and gunpowder, and paid out of my bales. 
The Banians and Shereef had interposed their own trade speculation between 
two Government officers, and thenceforward all the expenses of the journey 
were defrayed out of my sui»plies, and Shereef was able to send back to his 
accomplices five frasilahs of ivory from Unyanyembe, value some £60; the 
p.igazi a.;am paid by me. He was in no hurry to aid me, but spent fourteen 
months in traversing a distance that could easily have been accomplished in 
three. If we deduct two months' detention by sickness, we have still twelve 
months, of which nine were devoted to the i)'ivate interests of the Banians and 
Shereef. He ran riot with my goods, buying the best provisions and drink 
the country afforded ; lived in my tent till it was so rotten and iVill of holes I 
never could use it once ; reuiained two months at three several places retailing 
brandy, opium, gunpowder, and soap, and, these being finished, on reaching 
Ujiji he would go no further. Here it is commonly reported he lay drunk for 
a month at a time, the dura, pombe, and palm-toddy all bought with my fine 
samsau! beads. He issued twenty-four yards of calico per month for himself, 
eight yards ditto for each of his two slaves, eight yards ditto for his woman, and 
eight yards ditto to A wathc, the other headman ; aud when he sent seven of the 
Banian slaves employed by Ludha to me at Bamb.irre he would not allov: me 
more than two liasilahs of the very coarsest bends, evidently exchan<:cd for 
my fine samsams, a few pieces of calico, and, in great mercy, half of the coffee 
and sugar. The slaves came without loads. Shereef finished up, as above 
stated, by selling off all except the other half of the coffee and suiiar and one 
bundle of unsaleable be ids, and four pieces of calico. He went off from this, 
but hearing of disturbances at Unyanyembe, deposited his ivorv in a village 
near to this, and coming back took the four pieces of calico, and I received, of 
all the fine calico and beads you sent, not a single yard or string of beads. 
Awathe, the other headman employed, was a spectator of all the plunder by 
Shereef, from the coast upwards, and never opened his mouth in remonstrance 
or in sending back a report to his employer. He carefully concealed an infir- 
mity from you which prevented him from pi rforming a single duty for me. 
He had his shepa long before he was engaged, and he stated t(^ me that the 
large fleshy growth came up at once on reaching Ujiji. It is not hydn^cele 
but sarcoceie, and his own statement proved that the pain he feigned had 
entirely ceased when a friend of mine, Dugumbe, offered to convey him by 
abort easy stages to me. He refused, from believing that the Banians have so 
much power over us that he will be paid in full for all the time he has been 
devouring my goods, though quite unable to do any duty. Dugumbe also 
offered to convey a ]«cket of letters that was delivered to Shereef here as my 
agent, but when he told him that he was about to start it was not forthcoming 
It was probably destroyed to prevent my seeing the list of goods you sent by 

2 z 



T06 APPENDIX, 

one Hassani to Unyanyembe. With due deference to your judgment, I claim 
all the exjjensres incurred, as set down against me in Ludha's books, from the 
Banians, who by fraud converted a caravan to help me into a gratilication of 
their own greed. Muhamad Nassnr can reveal tlie names of the other I'aniau 
acconiplices of Shereef wno connived in supi)lanting help for me into a trade 
gpeculation ; they ought to pay the slaves sent by Ludha, and let ihcm, the 
Banians, recover from Shereef. I report this case to her Majesty's Government 
as well as to you, and believe that your hands will thereby be strengthened to 
see that justice is done to me and that due punishment be inflicted on the Bani- 
ans, on Shereef", and Awathe, and on the Banian slaves who baffled and tiuvarted 
me instead of fulfilling the engagement entered into in your presence. Jn intrust- 
ing the matter of supplies and men for me to the Banian Ludiia, you seem to 
have been unaware that our Government forbids its servants to employ slaves. 
The commissioner and consul at Loanda, on the West Coast, sent all the way 
to St. Helena for rather stupid servants, so as not to incur the displeasure of 
the Foreign Office by using very clever Portuguese slaves within call. In the 
very trying circumstances you mention, during the visitation of cliolera, and in 
the absence of the instructions I had enclosed to em|)loy I'ree men and not 
slaves, as also in the non-appearance of the checks for money enclosed in the 
lost packet, the call on Ludha was, perha|)s, the easiest course, and 1 trust that 
you will not consider me ungrateful if I point out that it involved a great mis- 
take. Ludha is ])olite cnouiih, but the slave trade, and, indeed, most other 
trades, is carried on chiefly by the money of Banians — British subjects, who 
receive most of the profits, and adroitly let the odium of slaving tail on 
the Arabs. They hate us English, and rejoice more over our failures than 
successes. Ludha sent his own and other Banian slaves, at $60 a year, 
while the usual pay of free men at Zanzibar is from $.5 to $30 a year. He 
will charge enormous interest on the money advanced — it is reported of 20 
or 25 per cent. ; and even supposing Sliereefs statement that Ludha told 
him not to go beyond Ujiji, but after one month sell off all and return, to be 
quite untrue, it is passing strange that every one of the Banian slaves em- 
ployed stou'ly asserted that they were not to follow, but to force me back. 
I had no hold on people who knew that they would not be allowed to 
keep their wages. It is also verj'' remarkable that the objects of your 
caravan should be so completely fru>trated by Banians conniving with 
Slureef almost within the shadow of the Consulate, and neither dragoman 
nor other paid officials under your orders give any information. The cha- 
racters of Ali bin Salem bin Raschid and of his chum Shereef could scarcely 
have been hid from them. Why employ them without characters? 

" Yours very truly, 

" David Livingstone." 

" P.S. — November 16, 1871. — I regret the necessity of bringing the fore- 
going very unpleasant subject before you, but I have just received information 
and letters that make the matter doubly serious. Mr. Churchill informed me, 
by a letter of September, 1870, that her Majesty's Government had most 
kindly sent lOOOZ. for sujiplies to be forwarded to me; some difficulties had 
occurred to prevent 500/. worth from starting, but in the beginning of 
November all were removed. But you had recourse to slaves again, and 
one of the.se slaves now informs me that they remained at Ba;;amoyo foui 
months, or till the end of February, 1871. No one looked near them during 
that time, but a rumour reached them that the Consul was coming, and off 
they started two da3's before your arrival, not on their business, but on some 
private trip of your own. These slaves came to Unyanyen)be in May last, 
and there they say that the war broke out in July, and gave them a good 
excuse to be there still. A whole year has thus been spent in feasting slaves 



J 



APPENDIX. 70t 

on 500;. sent by Govemmant to me. Like the man who was tempted Ic 
desjiair when he broke the ])hoto,:zraph ot his wife, I feel inclined to relin- 
quish the liope of ever getting help from Zanzibar to finish the little vvork 
1 have still to do. I want men, not slaves, and free men are abundant m 
Zanzibar : but if the matter is committed to Ludha, instead of an energetic 
Arab, with some little sui)erintendence by your dragoman or others, I may 
wait twenty years, and your slaves feast and fail." 



** Dr. Livingstone to Dr. Kibk. 

" Unyanyembe, February 20, 1872. 
" My dear Kirk, — As I am sending by Mr. Stanley for fifty freemen 
from Zanzibar to enable me to finish up my work, 1 beg you to favou" 
me with your influence with the Sultan, that he may give me an able 
headman to lead them quickly here, and continue with me till I have 
finished what I have still to do— a man of good character, willing to work 
for me, and on no account to attempt to inflict (sic) any private speculation 
on my expedition. It is necessary to be explicit on this ])oint; but if he 
proves himself a good energetic headman, when we come into the country 
where ivory is abundant 1 shall try to make it worth his while to have 
come by means of my own goods. If he has gone with a caravan previ- 
ously, he will know what duties he owes to the chief of it. We shall see, 
on his arrival here, by the manner in which he has obeyed Mr. Stanley's 
instructions as to the donkeys and men, whether he is qualified to accompany 
me lurtlur. His duty, as you very properly told others, is to do what he is 
ordered, and see that those under him do the same, without reference to the 
customs or practices of any other caravan. 1 wish you to hand over to 
Mr. Henry M. Stanley the sum oi' £500 out of the money placed in your handa 
for my use by her Majesty's Government, to be laid out by him, and you will 
receive his receipt as a sufficient acknowledgment from me. He knows the 
kind of men and necessaries I need, and I am sure your consular influence will 
be used to iielp him to get all I require, and a speedy departure of the party 
inland, ll you received two letters written hastily on the 28th of October, 
1871, as soon as I reached L)jiji,one for you and the other for Lord Clarendon, 
you may have been led to employ Banian or other slaves again instead of free 
men. Do not hesitate ; please at once to discharge them, no matter what 
expense may have been incurred. I have given Mr. Stanley a draft on 
Bombay in case of your having spent all the money (lOCO/.) sent by Govern- 
ment. No slaves must be sent, for all those already employed came full 
of the idea that they were not to follow but force me back, and they 
positively swore (falsely, of course,) that you, the consul, had so instructed 
them. I enclose a receipt for a ])Ocket chronometer from the captain of 
anv man-of-war who may be able an<i willing to lend me one without inter- 
fe\ i^ with the navigation of his own ship; and btfore leaving this and pecu- 
niary matters. 1 would just add that haste is of vital importance, and if any 
other way of getting money quickly suggests itseli", either from Mr. Ytjung or 
from my bankers, Coults & Co., please adopt it, and I hereby engage to refund 
the whole by cheque as soon as Mr. Stanley's men reach Unyan\embe. By 
some newspapers sent by Mr. Webb to Mr. Stanley, I see that you are under 
the impression that goods and packets committed by you to Banians may 
reach Ujiji in about a month alter delivery. 'I'he box packed by you was 
about four years in the way ; goo<ls, and I suppose letters, were sent by 
(me Hassaiu, and totally disappeared. Letters sent by Shereef were fourtctu 



708 APPENDIX. 

months on the way to Ujiji ; one packet of them was destroj-ed. All tlie 
goods were sold off for slaves and ivory. But you were misled to cause Earl 
Granville to say in the House of Lords that all my wants had been supplied. 
1 need not enlarge further than give a bird's-eye view of your last supplies 
through Ludha and slaves. The letters were fourteen months in the way to 
Ujiji, and came only through Mr. Stanley accidentally seeing and seizing them 
for me. The slaves you sent would not accompany him to Ujiji. Why 
j^hould they all have been taught not to follow me ? They told me that 
they lay four months at Bagamoyo. Three bags of beads and one bale of 
cloth disappeared there ; then the two headmen ran riot on the goods here. 
One died of smallpox, and Athman, the survivor, broke the bolt and keys of 
Mr. Stanley's store in open day, and stole his goods. Dismissed. 

" I am, &c., 

" David Livingstone, 
" Her Majesty's Consul, Inner Africa.** 



Dr. Kirk to Earl Granville. 

" Zanzibar, May 9, 1872 
** I HAVE the honour to report that yesterday Mr. Stanley, whose approach 
1 had already announced, entered Zanzibar and placed in my bands letters 
from Dr. Livingstone, of which I herewith iurnish copies. Dr. Livingstone 
having studiously refrained from affording the smallest hint either of his past 
labours during the three years he has been silent, or regarding the new ex- 
plorations he is about to embark on and for which he orders, throuiih Mr. 
Stanley, a grant of fifty armed men, and authorizes an expendittire of 500^., I 
must allow Mr. Stanley, who has been intrusted with the secret, to disclose it in 
ihe way that best suits the interests of his employer. To Mr. Stanley has 
been confided the whole of Dr. Livingstone's diary and notes, with special 
instructions to allow nothing to transpire here as to his route or plans ; and 
letters formerly written, in which some information was given, have been sup- 
pressed or lost. The balance of the Government grant of lOOOZ., placed by your 
Lordship in Mr. Churchill's hands, having been transferred at your directions to 
the Livingstone Search and Relief Expedition, is already at the disposal of Mr. 
\V. 0. Livingstone, who now rejiresents that expedition, the senior members 
having judiciously retired on its being known that Dr. Livingstone was safe 
and within easy access at Unyanyem.be, and in possession of ample stores for 
the years that he still purposes remaining in the country. Mr. Stanley has 
shown me the list of things now ordered through him, almost all of which are 
already in the outfit of the expedition and in the hands of Mr. W. 0. Living- 
stone. The expensive cotton goods and beads already packed for the journey 
will therefore, in all probability, be sold, as we know they are no longer 
aeeded by Dr. Livingstone. In the hands of the expedition there are also 
fifty rifled carbines, that will render unnecessary any fresh outlay on this head 
in arming the fifty men to be selected by Mr. Stanley ; in fact, slave-chains 
ordered by Dr. Livingstone to be provided for the guard, to be used in case of 
their refusing work, as did those whom he before had, are about the only 
things not already purchased, but the conduct of the whole matter as it affects 
the expedition is now in the hands of Dr. Livingstone's own son, and the 
selection of men is jealously placed in Mr. Stanley's hands. The party, at 
Dr. Livingstone's express request, will start off at once in light marching 
order. Tlie bulky correspondence I enclose shows clearly that the agent, 
Shereef Basha., intrusted to convey stores to Ujiji, did so in the most dilatory 



APPENDIX, 706 

and dishonest manner ; but it seems that the trading speculations on the first 
part of the way were chiefly carried on with goods borrowed on the coastj 
■which he mixed with Government stores in order to escape the cost of transit 
He arrived at Ujiji, however, with an ample store of Government goods, which, 
if honestly given up, would have long sufficed for all Dr. Livingstone's wants. 
At Ujiji, thinking that Dr. Livingstone would not return from Manyema, he 
made away with the most valuable, sending only a very little to the Doctor. 

" The second supply forwarded, being a duplicate of the first order, has 
reached Unyanyenibe. This party was first organised and sent off by Mr.. 
Churchill, but the men skulked on the coast until after Mr. Chuicliiirs de- 
parture from Zanzibar, Having reason to suspect that this was the case, I 
first sent a consular servant and followed myself; most of the party had 
started off precipitately on hearing of my approach, but there remained several 
loads which I had personall) to expedite from Bagamoyo. It is however, 
these goods that are now in Dr. Livingstone's hands, and it was re<^arding 
them, on learning war had broken out, that I requested Mr. Stanley, who was 
at Unyanyembe, to act for me in for^varding them to Dr. Livingstone. At 
that time it was not known here that Mr. Stanley had gone in search of 
Dr. Livingstone, for this he L.ad carefully concealed at starting ; but finding a 
white man on the spcjt I requested him to do what he could to push on stores 
intended for a fellow-traveller. Much of Dr. Livingstone's correspondence with 
tiiis office relates to formal charges of slave-holding against several of the most 
important members of the British Indian community. I can vouch for it that 
each man fully understood every word written in the contract; and further, 
that these men, said to be slaves of Banians, declared themselves freed men. 
That these men have turned out badly there can be no doubt; but Mr. Stanley 
tells me that he has been compelled, with his own escort under his eye, to 
march them in slave-chains to prevent similar disasters, and Dr. Livingstone, 
in a paper in his own handwriting, orders chains for such a use for the men 
who now go up to join him. With the old affair of the Johanna men and Dr. 
Livingstone's pecuniary claim against them, 1 shall await your Lordship's 
orders ; but as Johanna is not within my jurisdiction I enclose the paper 
relating thereto in original, I refrain from making any observations on the 
very uncourteous tone of these official letters, or the ungenerous personal in- 
sinuations affecting myself and Mr. Churchiirs conduct, but I shall be ready, 
\vhen required, to answer any point on which your Lordship may call for an 
explanation. I am wholly at a loss to explain why Dr. Livingstone, accredited 
as her Majesty's consul, should not at once have taken the strongest measures 
to put an end to murder, slave- stealing, and robbery, all of which, he saya, 
were openly carried on by Nassick boys — British proteyes — who, if not now 
part of his escort, were at least introduced into the country by him, and at the 
time, in the same camp. If he, on the spot, armed with the consular autho- 
rity, after seeing what he describes, finds himself powerless to interfere, how 
can he expect justice to overtake the accused from this distance, in a region 
not in any way within the power of the Zanzibar Sultan ?" 



(Extract.) 

•• Dr. KiBK to Earl Gbanville. (Received July 22.) 

" Zanzibar, May 18, 1872. 
** I have the honour to report that, on receipt of certain intelligence that 
Dr. Livingstone was at Unyanyembe, distant only thirty days' journey from 
the coast, in good health, and in possession of ample supplies, but without any 



no APPENDIX, 

intention of leaving Africa for the present, Lieutenant Oawsor., leader cf th€ 
'Search and Relief Expedition,' determined that his services as a hydroizrapher 
and skilled surveyor were not required. Dr. Livinfistor.e's son still insistin<ion 
proce<'diiii»; to join his father an<l follow him, and Lieutenant Ilenn, under this 
circumstance, thinking it hardly well to allow him to proceed alone, took 
Conjmand on Lieutenant Dawson retiring. Mr. New, missionary, wiio had 
joined tlie expedition here as interpreter, offered also to o;o, and the new party- 
were ready for a start when Mr. New resigned, on the ground tliat, after 
better refit'Cti(»n, he could not accept a second position. His services were at 
once dispensed with and his resia;nation accepted. Lieutenant Henn, Mr. 
W. 0. Livuiizstone, and the native guard next proceeded to the African main- 
iand, where the goo<1s had already been collected under Lieutenant Dawson. 
The party was ready to start, and perliaps no expedition ever set out under 
better aitspiccs or better fitted ont, when Mr. Stanley, the American news- 
paper correspondent, who a }ear ago had gone oil", reached Marian oyo. Mr. 
Stanley lost no time in assuring Lieutenant Henn that he had written orders 
from Dr. Livin<>st*^)ne to turn any expedition he might meet coming up 
country to him, and informed Lieutenant Henn that he and his jiarty would 
be far from welcome, and their presence only an incumbrance, as he (Mr. 
Stanley) held the Doctor's own orders for a pang of men and the special 
supplies he still required. On returning to Zanzibar, where it was obvious 
from the tenour of L)r. Livingstone's oflficial corresix>ndence that he would not 
welcome the arrival of any assistance unless through Mr. Stanley, his con- 
fidential agent. Lieutenant Henn, necessarily retired, but Mr. W. O. Living- 
stone still persisting in his jnirpose to reach his father at all hazards in 
company with Mr. Stanley's men, the exi>edition stores were transferred to 
his care. Mr. Stanley lost no tmie in applying for the £500 that Dr. Living- 
stone had, in a letter I have already sent in copy, ordered me to deliver over. 
1 informed him that I then held no such funds, all bavin j; been some time 
before made over by your Lordship's orders to the Search Expedition, and that 
the whole responsiliility of the same rested with Mr. W. O. Livingstone. Mr. 
Stanley thereupon destroyed a check of Dr. Livingstone for the sum of £500, 
drawn on Bombay. Mr. W. 0. Livingstone, since perusing his lather's letters, 
refused to accompany Mr. Stanley's party or <:o to his father. He has *:iven 
Mr. Stanley all he needed in stores and money, and the American party left 
yesterday for the coast. I shall here add, as otherwise my conduct may be 
misrepresented, that Mr. Stanley, in order to evade blame if his men did not 
reach Unyauyembe in time, applied to me to see them started oil after his 
departure from Zanzibar. This was positively and at once declined, and I 
informed him that I could not, after what Dr. Livinirstone had done and said, 
act in any but an ofhcial capacity. Mr. W. O. Livingstone has sold off here 
the surjjlus stores of the expedition and will render his accounts to the Koyal 
Geographical Society." 

From the above we see that Dr. Livingstone writes a formal com- 
plaint to Dr. Kirk, and, of course, is obliged to address his friend by 
the formal term of " Sir." He then goes on to relate the results of 
the several caravans sent to him from Zanzibar, and in a postscript 
confesses that he regrets the necessity of writing upon an unpleasant 
fiubject. 

In the letters of Dr. Kirk, which evidently show that he resents 
the complaint, we find him retaliating with the following chargea 
against Dr. Livingstone and myself: 



APPENDIX. 711 

1st. Dr. Livingstone lias " studiously" refrained from affording the 
smallest hint either of his past labours during the three years he has 
been silent, or regarding his new explorations. 

2nd. Mr. Stanley has special instructions to allow nothing to trans- 
pire here as to his (future) route or plans. 

3rd. Letters formerly written in which some information was given 
have been suppressed or lost, 

4th. Mr. Stanley has been compelled to march his men in slave 
chains to prevent similar disasters from those which Dr. Livingstone 
has suffei-cd. 

5th. Dr. Livingstone, in a paper in his own handwriting, orders 
chains for such a use (to prevent disasters) for the men who now go 
up to join him. 

6th. The t(me of the official letters of Dr. Livingstone are un- 
courteous, and the personal insinuations affecting myself and Mr. 
Churcliiirs conduct are ungenerous. 

7th. I wonder that Dr. Livingstone, armed with the consular 
authority, finds himself powerless to interfere to put an end to murder, 
slave-stealing, and robbery, openly carried on by Nassick boys — - 
British jn'ottges. 

8th. Mr. Stanley lost no time in assuring Lieutenant Henn that he 
had written orders from Dr. Livingstone to turn any expedition he 
might meet coming up country to him. 

9th. It is cbvious, from the tenor of Dr. Livingstone's official cor- 
respondence, that he would not welcome the arrival of any assistance 
unless through Mr Stanley, his confidential agent. 

10th. Mr. W. O. Livingstone, since perusing his father's letters, 
refused to accompany Mr. Stanley's party or to go to his father. 

Since Dr. Livingstone is absent, and as I can answer the above 
charges as well as if he were in England himself, and as I am in- 
volved in some of the statements and charges made, it is my duty to 
explain them as correctly as possible. My replies will be made in the 
same order as the statements are made. 

1st. Dr. Livingstone has not studiously refrained from affording 
clues to his futnre plans or his past labours. Time and time again 
he wrote letters — copies of which I have seen in his diary — detailing 
his discoveries. 

2nd. Mr. Stanley never received special instructions to allow 
nothing to transpire as to Dr. Livingstone's future route or plans, 
either fiom Dr. Livingstone or Mr. Bennett, a proof of which is that, 
when the correspondent of the Daily Telegraph came to me at Marseilles 
for information, I freely gave it to him. 

3rd. Letters with information from Dr. Livingstone to Dr. Kirk 



712 APPENDIX. 

and Lord Clarendon, written soon after his arrival in ITjiji, were sent 
by couriers to Unyanyembe and received by Sayd bin Salim. They 
were subsequently " suppressed or lost " between Sayd bin Salim at 
Unyanyembe and the British Consulate at Zanzibar while I was 
travelling with Dr. Livingstone from Ujiji to Unyanyembe. 

4:th. I was only compelled to march the few refractory and deserters 
in chains — men who constantly endangered my Expedition by leaving 
the property on the road, or by mutiny. 

5th. Dr. Livlngtone, according to my suggestions, promised to try 
the moral effect of a chain on the refractory and deserters, as I had 
done. Some means of punishment are as necessary in Central Africa 
for the incorrigible as prisons in civilised lands. 

6th. The tone of the letters of Dr. Livingstone are not uncourteous. 
Discourtesy was never intended ; they are mere formal complaints. 

7th. Dr. Livingstone, Jirmed even with despotic and royal authority, 
unless he had means to enforce it, would be as powerless as with only 
consular authority. He could not punish the British proteges with 
capital punishment or imprisonment in the wilds of Central Africa 
were he armed witli the authonty of all the civilized nations, unless 
he had means to enforce that sublime authority. He could only 
dismiss the miscreants. 

8th. I advise readers to read the chapter entitled " Valedictory." 

9th. It is not obvious, from the tenor of Dr. Livingtone's official 
letters to Dr. Kirk, that he would not welcome any assistance unless 
through Mr. Stanley. Dr. Livingstone was not aware that the British 
public was organising ass 'stance for him. In the absence of this 
knowledge he requested me to do the best I could for him ; but the 
men and stores such as he said he required were sent to him from 
Zanzibar icholhj from English support. 

10th. Mr. W. 0. Livingstone, since perusing his father's letters, did 
not " refuse to accompany Mr. Stanley's party or to go to his father." 
Mr. Livingstone merely withdrew according to the friendly and 
medical advice given to him by Dr. Kirk, that in the then poor state of 
his health, it would have been extremely unwise, if not dangerous, for 
him to attempt reaching Unyanyembe during the worst monsoon that 
ever visited East Africa. 

I conclude with the hope that when Dr. Livingstone returns, the 
feeling which Dr. Kirk seems to ent rtxin for him now will be replaced 
by one more courteous and forbearing, which will tend to re-establish 
the friendly intimacy that formerly characterised the intercourse be- 
tween these two old friends when they travelled and lived together in 
the regions of the Zambezi and Nyassa Lake. On Dr. Livingstone's 
wde I think I may promise a cheery and hearty response to this senti' 



Am: XI) IX. 718 

meat. As for mysolf, nothing would deliglit mo more tliia to sec a 
general shako-liatuls all round. Dr. Livingstone is well aware of the 
sentiments I entertain for him, and Dr. Kirk may rest assured that I 
have a sincere admiration for himself. 

The following is the very latest intelligence (received at the Foreign 
Office on the 19th of October last past) from Dr. Livingstone, and 
goes to prove precisely what I have stated, that he meant no 
discourtesy to Dr. Kirk, or to attack his conduct, and that I judged 
his feelings correctly in the preceding paragraph. 

Dr. Livingstone to Lord Granvillb. 

" Unyanyembe, .Tuly Ist, 1872. 
" My Lord, — It is necessary to recall to memory that I was sub- 
jected to very great inconvenience by the employment of slaves instead 
of freemen. It caused me the loss of quite two years of time, inflicted 
1,800 or 2,000 miles of useless marching, imminent risk of violent 
death four several times, and how much money I cannot tell. Certain 
Banians, Indian British subjects, headed by one Ludha Damji, seem 
to have palmed off their slaves on us at more than double freemen's 
pay, and all the slaves were imbued with the idea that they were not 
to follow, but to fjrce me back. By the money and goods of these 
Banians nearly all the slave trade of this region is carried on. They 
employed dishonest ag3nts to conduct the caravans, and this has led 
to my being plundered four several times. No trader is thus robbed. 
I sent a comi)laint of this to Dr. Kirk, and in my letter of the 14th of 
November last I enclosed a copy, in tiie hope that, if necessary, his 
hands might be strengthened by the Foreign Office in administering 
justice, and I was in hopes that he would take action in the matter 
promptly ; because the Banians and their dishonest agent, Shercef, 
placed a private trade speculation between Dr. Kirk and me, and we 
were unwittingly led into employing slaves, though we all objected to 
Captain Fraser doing the same on his sugar estate. I regret very 
much to hear incidentally that Dr. Kii-k viewed my formal complaint 
against Banians as a covert attack upon himself. If I had foreseen 
this, I should certainly have borne all my losses in silence. I never 
had any difference with him, though we were together for years, and 
I had no intention to give offence now. But the public interest takon 
in this expedition enforces publicity as to the obstacles that prevented 
its work being accomplished long ago. I represented the Banians and 
their agents as the cause of all my losses, and that the Governor here 
is their chief trade agent. This receives confirmation by the fact that 
Shercef, and all the first gang of slaves, are now living comfortably 



714 APPENDIX. 

with liim at !Mfutii, a village about twelve miles distant from the spot 
at which I write. 

" Having, as I mentioned in my above letter, abundant supplies to 
enable me in a short time to make a feasible finish-up of my work, and 
the first and second gangs of slaves having proved so very unsatisfac- 
tory, I felt extremely anxious that no more should come, and requested 
Viv. Stanley to hire fifty freemen at Zanzibar; and should he 
meet a party of slaves coming, by all means to send them back, no 
matter what expense had been incurred. I would cheerfully pay it 
all. I had no idea that this would lead to the stoppage of an English 
expedition sent in the utmost kindness to my aid. I am, really and 
truly, profoundly grateful for the generous effort of my noble coun- 
trymen, and deeply regret that my precaution against another expe- 
dition of slaves should have damped the self-denying zeal of gentlemen 
who have not a particle of the slave spirit in them. As I shall now 
explain, but little good could have been done in the direction in which 
I propose to go ; but had we a telegraph, or even a penny post, I 
should have advised work in another dii'ection that would have pleased 
the Council. 

" A war has been going on here for the last twelve months. It 
resembles one of our own Caffre wars in miniature, but it enriches no 
one All trade is stopped, and there is a general lawlessness all over 
the country. I propose to avoid this confusion by going southwards 
to Fipa, then round the south end of Tanganyika, and crossing the 
Chambeze, proceed west along the shore of Lake Bangweolo. Being 
then in latitude 12 degrees south, I wish to go straight west to the 
ancient fountains reported at that end of the watershed, then turn 
north to the copper mines of Katanga, which are only about ten days 
south-west of the underground excavations. Returning thence to 
Katanga, twelve days south- south-west leads to the head of Lake 
Lincoln. Arrived there, I shall devoutly thank Providence and 
retire along Lake Kamolondo towards Ujiji and home. By this trip 
I hope to make up for the loss of ground caused by the slaves. I was 
forced back from near the confluence of the Lomame with Webb's 
Lualaba. Lomame is the prolongation of Lake Lincoln into the 
lacustrine central line of drainage — Webb's Lualaba. The route in- 
dicated utilizes my return tramp by going round outside, or say south, 
about all the sources together, and this, going back through Manyuema 
to take up the thread of exploration, would not do. It also takes me 
outside the area of the Ujijian or mainland slaving and bloodshed, 
which the Manyuema are learning to revenge. If I retired now, as I 
wish with all my heart I could do with honour, I should be conscious 
of having left the discovery of the sources unfinished, and that soon 



APPENDIX. 715 

some one else would come and show the hollowness of my claim, and 
worse than tliat by far, the Banians and their agents, who I believe 
conspired to baffle me, would virtually have success in their design. 
I alicady know many of the people among whom I go as quite 
friendly, because I travelled extensively in that quarter in eliminating 
the error into which I was led by the Chambeze being called, by the 
Portuguese and others, the Zambesi. I should very much like to 
visit the Basango, who are near my route; but I restrict myself to six 
or eight months to undo the losses I sustained. About live genera- 
tions ago, a white man came to the highlands of Basango, which are 
in a line east of the watershed, lie had six attendants, who all died, 
and eventually their head man, called Charura, was elected chief by 
the Basango. In the third generation he had sixty able-bodied spear- 
men as lineal descendants. This implies an equal number of the 
other sex. They are very light in colour, and easily known, as no 
one is allowed to wear coral beads such as Charura brought except 
the Royal family. A book he brought was lost only lately. The 
interest of the case lies in its connection with Mr. Darwin's celebrated 
theory on the 'origin of species,' for it shows that an improved vaiiety, 
as we whites modestly call ourselves, is not so liable to be swamped 
by numbers as some have thought. 

"Two Mazitu chiefs live near the route. I would fain call and 
obtain immunity for Englishmen such as has been awarded to the 
Arabs of Seyed Majid, but I am at present much too rich to go among 
thieves. At other times I could have gone safely, because, to use a 
Scotch proverb, 'No one can take the breeks of a Highlander.' With 
ordinary success I hope to be back at Ujiji eight months licnce. If 
any one doubts the wisdom of my decision, or suspects me of want of 
love to my family in making this final trip, I can confidently appeal 
for approbation to the Council of the Royal Geographical Society as 
thoroughly understanding the subject. 

"Had it been possible for me to know of the coming of the late 
Search Expedition, I should certainly have made use of it as a branch 
expedition to explore Lake Victoria, for which the naval officers 
selected were no doubt perfectly adapted. The skeleton of a boat 
left here by Mr. Stanley would have served their purpose, and they 
would have had all the merit of independent exploration and success. 
I travelled for a considerable time in company with three intelligent 
Sanheli, who had lived three, six, and nine years respectively in the 
country east of the Victoria Lake, there called Okara, but on this side 
Mkara. They described three or four lakes, only one of which sends 
its waters to the north. Okara seems to be Lake Victoria proper : 
about its middle it gives off an arm eastwards called Kidette, in 



716 APPENDIX. 

whicli many weirs are set and many fish caught. It is three days in 
length by canoe, and joins Lake Kavirondo, which may not deserve 
to he called a lake, but only an arm of Okara. Very dark people 
live on it, and have cattle. The Masai are further east. To the 
south-east of Kavirondo stands Lake Neibash, or Neybash; they 
travelled along its southern bank for three days, and thence saw 
Mount Kilimanjaro, also in the south-east ; it had no outlet. Away 
far to the north of Kavirondo they described Lake Baringo (not Bahr 
Ngo). A river or rivulet, called Ngare na Eogwa, flows into it from 
the south or south-east. Its name signifies that it is brackish. 
Bari go gives forth a river to the north-east, called Ngardabash. 
The land east and north of Baringo is called Burukineggo, and 
Gallahs with camels and horses are reported ; but my informants did 
not see them. I give their information only for what it may be 
worth ; their object was plunder, and they could scarcely be mistaken 
as to the number of lakes where we suppose there is only one. 
The Okara, or Lake Victoria proper, is the largest, and has many very 
large islands in it. I have not the faintest wish to go near it, either 
now or at any future time. In performing my one work I desire to 
do it v/ell, and I think that I may lay claim to some perseverance. 
Yet if ordered to go anywhere else, I should certainly plead ' severe 
indisposition,' or * urgent private affairs.' I have been reported as 
living among the Arabs as one of themselves ; that only means that I 
am on good terms with them all. They often call me the ' Christian, 
and I never swerved from that character in any one respect. 

" An original plan of getting the longitude, which I submit to 
Sir Thomas Maclear, of the Koyal Observatory at the Cape, gives 
27 degrees east as the longitude of the great river Lualaba, in latitude 
4 degrees 9 minutes south. It runs between 26 degrees and 27 degrees 
east, and is therefore not so far west as my reckoning— carried on 
without watch, through dense forests and gigantic grasses— made it. 
It is thus less likely to be the Congo, and T ought to meet Baker on 
it. In reference to the ancient fountains, I already know the four 
rivers that unquestionably do arise near or on the western end of the 
watershed. Mr. Oswell and 1 were told, about 1851, that the Kafue 
and Liambai (Upper Zambesi) arose at one spot, though we were then 
some three hundred miles distant. The two rivers Lomame and 
Lufira come from the same quarter; the only point that remains 
doubtful is the distances of their fountain heads, and this I am very 
anxious to ascertain. I send astronomical observations and a sketch- 
map to Sir 1 homas Maclear by a native. The map is very imperfect, 
from want of conveniences for tracing, and no position is to be con-^ 
sidered settled or published until it is recalculated at the Observatory. 



APPENDIX, 71? 

" There is a good deal of risk in so doing, but not so much danger 
as if I intrusted it to my friend tlie Governor. A former sketch-map, 
a multitude of astronomical observations, and nearly all my letters, 
always disappeared here ; but it is better that they run the risk in 
the hand of a native than go with me over waters innumerable. The 
fear of losing my journal altogether led me to intrust it to Mr. Stanley 
to be kept by my daughter till I return, and I hope it has arrived 
safely. I am waiting here only till my fifty men arrive. The natural 
anxiety I feel for the safety of my son Oswell coming through the 
fever'sli districts between this cold highland and the coast would have 
been threefold increased had the naval gentlemen come. 

" In conclusion, let me beg your lordship to offer my very warmest 
thanks to them, to the Council and Fellows of the Royal Geograi)hical 
Society, and to all who kindly contributed in any way towards so- 
curing my safety. I really feel that no one in this world ought tc 
be more deeply grateful than your most obedient servant, 

" David Livingstone, 
« JELor M<yesty's CoqiiuI, Iimer Africa." 



CONCLUDING CHAPTEE. 



The following correspondence, and especially the last letter, which 
was accompanied by a beautiful and valuable gold snutF-box set with 
brilliants, will be treasured by me as among the pleasantest results 
of my undertaking. 

H. M. S. 

** Foreiofn Office, August 1. 
*SiR, — I am directed by Earl Granville to acknowledjie the receipt of a 
packet containino; letters and despatches from Dr. Livingstone, which you were 
good enough to deliver to her Majesty's ambassador at Paris for transmission 
to this department; and I am to convey to you his Lordship's thanks foi 
takmg charge of these interesting documents. 

*' 1 am, Sir, 

" Your most obedient humble servant, 

** E^F1ELIX* 

"Henby M. Stanley, Esq., New York Herald Bureau, 
" 46, 1? leet IStreet, London.** 



" London, August 2. 
** Henry M. Stanley, Esq., has handed to me to-day the diai y of Dr. Living- 
stone, my lather, sealed and signed by my father, with instructions written on 
the outside, signed by my father, for the care of winch, and for all his actions 
concerning and to my lather, our very best thanks are due. We have not the 
8li<ihtest reason to doubt that this is my lather's journal, and I certily that the 
letters he has brought home are my father's letters, and no others. 

" Tom S. Livingstone.*' 



"August 2, 1872. 
** Sir, — I was not aware until you mentioned it that there was any doubt as 
to the authenticity of Dr. Livingstone's despatches, which you delivered to 
Lord Lyons on tie 31st of July. But, in consequence of what you said I 
have inquired into the matter, and I find that Mr, Hammond, the under* 
secretary of the Foreign C'flice, and Mr. Wylde, the head of the Consular and 
Slave IVade Deianment, have not the slightest doubt as to the genuineness of 
the papers which have been received from Lord Lvous. and which are being 
piiated 



APPENDIX. 



719 



•*I cannot omit this opportunity of expressing to j'ou my admiration of the 
qualities which have enabled you to achieve the ol^ject of your mi.^sion, and to 
attain a result which has been hailed with so much enthusiasm both iu the 
United States and in this country. 

" I am, Sir, 

" Your obedient, 

•• Geanville.** 
•* Henby Stanley, Esq." 



** Foreign OflBce, August 27. 
** Sm, — T have jrreat satisfaction in conveying to you, by command of the 
Queen, her Majesty's high appreciation of the prudence and zeal which you 
have displayed in opening a communication with Dr. Livingstone, and relievmg 
her Majesty from the anxiety which, in common with her subjects, she had 
felt in regard to the fate of that distinguished traveller. 

"The Queen desires m.e to express her thanks for the service you have 
thus rendered, together with her Majesty's congratulations on your having so 
successfully carried on the mission which you fearlessly uuderrook. Her 
Majesty also desires me to request your acceptance of the memorial which 
luxvimpanies this letter. 

**Iam, Sir, 

•• Your most, obedient humble servant, 

"Gbanvillb." 




TBS MEMOBIAk 



GLOSSARY. 



Boma. • 




cnclosura. 


Bubu . 




black beads. 


Diwan • 




elder, chief, or magistrate 


Doti . 




four yards of cloth. 


Dowa. 




medicine. 


Fundo 




ten necklaces, or ten khetes. 


Ghulabio . 




a species of bead. 


Hafde 




a species of bead. 


Hamal , 




carrier. 


Honga 




tribute. 


Ismaliili 




a native name for a particular kind < f . l^iu 


Kadunguru . 




a brick-colored species of bead. 


Kaif-Halek . 




« How do you do ?" 


Kaniki 




a blue cloth manufactured in India, 


Khambi 




camp. 


Khete 




one necklace, or a tenth of a fundo. 


Kichuma-chuma 




« Little Irons," a disease of the liver. 


Kirangozi . 




guide. 


Kitambi • 




a cloth. 


Kiti . 




stool 


Lakhio • 




a pink-colored species of bead. 


Lunghio 




blue beads. 


Lungbio mbamba. 


small blue beads. 


Lungbio rega 


• 


large blue beads. 


M . 


• 


a prefix to denote a person of any country; snob 
as M-jiji, a native of JijL 

3 A 



722 




APPENDIX, 


Many a para . 




elder, or sub-chief. 


Matania , 




IIolcus sorghum, or the Arabic donrra. 


Mbembn 


> • 


forest peach. 


Merikani . 




unbleached domestics manufactured in Amorict„ 


Mganga 




a medicine man, or magic doctor. 


Miezi-Mang 


u 


a Kisawahili term for " God." 


Mtemi 




a torra synonymous with king. 


Mtoni . 




nullah. 


Muliongo 




tributo. 


Mulungu 




a native term for ^ Goa.^ 


Miikimguru 




intermittent fever. 


Mvulia , 




thunder. 


Kgombe , 




a cow. 


Pagazi 




a porter, e; carricre 


Posho 




food. 


Sami-Sami , 




the name of red befic*£. 


Sliamba . 




a field. 


Sliash 




a muslin cloth. 


Sheikh 




& title of courtesy given to an elderly man 


Shukka 




two yards of cloth . 


Sohari 




a kind of colored cloth. 


Simgomazzi 




large glass or china beads of the size of marblei. 


Toiiji- 




the name for a particular kind of cloth. 


U • 




a prefix to denote the country: thus U-jiji sig- 
nifies the country of Jiji. 


Uganga 




medicine. 


Wa- , 




a prefix to denote persons : thus Wa-jiji would 
signify people of Jiji. 


Washensi 




a term of contempt applied to the Eativea. 


Yambo 




"How are youV ' 


Ziwa . 




a pool, or lake. 


Ziwani 




a pond. 



INDEX. 



AMal Kadei, tailor of tlie Expedi- 
tion, 67, 216 ; retirement of, 318 

Abdullali bin Nasib, 165 

Acacia liorrida, 203 

African bridges, 125 

Ali bin Salim, 45, 47, 49 

Aloes, 525 

Ambari, 345, 349 

Amer bin Sultan, type of an old Arab 
Sheikh, 219 

Amram bin Miissood, 271 

Andersen, Mr., on the failure to reach 
Lake Ngami, 687 

Animals, domesticated, of Central 
Africa., 529 

AiLt-hills, remarkable, 362 

Ants, white, destructivcncss of, 170 

Arabs, r.ntipathy to, as slave-traders, 
in Al'rica, 461 

Aranselar, chief butler of the Expedi- 
tion, 67 ; his desperate expedient 
to escape service, 68 

Asmani, giant stature of, 306, 348; 
his murderous deportment, 344 

Austin, Dr., of London, ICO 

Baba (Father), tenr. of courtesy in 

addressing elderly persons, 597 
Baboons, Wanderoo, 527 ; dog-faced, 

528 
Bagamoyo, I'rench Mission Station 

at, 20, 1-3 ; life at, 41 ^ climate of, 

66 
t— to Unyanyembe, distance of, 224 



Bambarre, iyory d^pot, 450 

Bana Mkuba, the " Big Master," 70 

Bang we Island, 479 

Bangweolo Lake, 448 

Banyans, 4 ; keen trading of, 6 ; theii 
influence on African trade, 7 

Baobab, fruit of the, 175 

Baruti, one of Speke's Faithfuls, death 
of, 302 

Beads as currency in the interior, 23 

Bees, attack of, on the caravan, 595 

Beke, Dr., dogmatism of, 468, 685 

Bemba, wooded hills of, 480 

Bennet, Mr. James Gordon, 424; 
Letter to, from Dr. Livingstone, 
617 ; generous act of, in respect to 
Dr. Livingstone's letters, 679 

Benta forest, 324 

Bihawana, 182 

Bikari, cluster of villages, 489 

Birds of Central Africa, 530 

" Bombay," or Mombay, 28, 30, 314, 
345, 487 

Bomboma's village, 277 

Borassus fldbeUifurmi% or Palmyra 
palm, 142 

Brooks, Dr., 679 

Buffalo gnats, 354 

- — herd, 376 

Bunder Salaam, cook of the Expedi- 
tion, 67 

Burial ceremonies, 302 

Burton, Capt., * Lake Eegions of Cen- 
tral Africa,' 1 ; his map of regioo 



724 



INDEX. 



i Bagamoyo, a blank, 85 , expe- 
rience of Banyans, 91 ; iread of 
fever by, 93 ; 517, 519 
Bustard, 337 

Cacti, 525 

Cazembe, King, 444 ; 11a Queen and 

her Amazons, 445 

Chamati Hili, 505 

Chambezi, drainage of, 427 

, Livingstone's difficulty about 

the, 446 

"Charley's** lodging-house at Zan- 
zibar, kindly spirit of its land- 
lord, 3 

Chowpereh, Mgwana soldier, 152, 
348 

Christie, Dr., pliysician to Seyd Bur- 
ghash, 68, 652 

Chufwa fly, 90 

Chuma, Dr. Livingstone's servant, 
409 

Cloth as currency in the interior, 23 

'- Columbine,' H.M.S., 64 

Comoriues, 9 

Oooley, Mr., his unwillingness to give 
up a pet theory, 468, 517 

Oorn-grinding women of Kisemo, 106 

Orocodile, narrow escape of the author 
from, 339 

Customs, curious, of the Wanya- 
mv'ezi, 544 

i;8k,home7. King of, 19 

' Daily Telegraph,' representative of, 
at Aden, 679 

Dar Salaam, port of, 225 

Dawson, Lieut., visit from, con- 
versation as to his resigning com- 
mand of the Search Expedition, 
660 ; misapprehension as to the 
author's feelings towards him, 678 ; 
justification of his action in regard 
to the Search and Kelief Expe- 
dition, 689 

Deity, notions of natives as to, 545 

Dhows, 2 

Dilima Peaks. 94, 288 



Diseases common to the natives, 533 
Dogara, or whitebait, 473, 533 
Donkeys, equipment of, 26; fine 

breed of, in Ubanarama, 212 
** Dowa," medicine, 86 

Earwigs, plague, of at Mpwapwa, 169 

Elephantiasis common in Zanzibar, 
148 

Elephants, herd of, 358 ; difficulty of 
shooting, 582 

Emancipation Proclamation of Abra- 
ham Lincoln, 451 

English press, misconceptions and 
ihaccuiacifcii of, o30 

Esau, Jemadar, 42 

Farquhar, W. L., 26, 39, 67, 145, 156, 
157 ; his death, 291 ; account of, 
639 

Faulkner, Mr., incredible statements 
of, 582 

Fauna of Central Africa, 527 

Ferajji, 350 

Fire-arms, what most suitable to the 
traveller, 62 

Fish of the 1 anganika, 530 

Fish-eagle, 337 

Food of the Arab tribes, 526; of 
Central Africa, 550 

Forest peach, 356 

Forest scenery of Unyamwezi, 322 ; 
sublime aspect of, 520 

Foreign Office, letters from, 616 

Franklyn, Mr. Hales, 679 

Eraser, Capt., 18, 662, 663 

Freiligrath's description of the lion's 
habitat, 368 

French Missionaries, practical cha- 
racter of, 20; Mission Station at 
Bagamoyo, 20, 43 
Fruit-trees, 526 

Gal ton, Mr. F., his designation of the 
author's defence of Dr. Living- 
stone as a sensational story, 468 
684; his failure to reach Lake 
Ngami, 688 

Giraffes, difficulty of killing, 590 



INDEX. 



725 



Qlosnna morsitanSy or tsetse fly, 
87-90 

Great Makata River, 230 

Goma Pass, 151 

Gombe Rivers, North and South, 521 

Grant, Col., 685 

Granville, Lord, letter from, convey- 
ing the thanks of Queen Victoria 
and the announcement of the Royal 
present, 716 

Goodhue, Mr., or " Bana Mkuba," 39, 
70 

Guinea palm, 524 

Haematite, 353 

Half-castes, contemptible character 
of, 6 

Halimah, Dr. Livingstone's cook, 
417 

Hassan, the Mseguhha, 355 

Henn, Lieut., his meeting with the 
author, 653 ; resigns the leader- 
ship, 664 

Herembe, Cape, 574 

Herodotus, his account of the Nile 
sources, 455 

Hindis, Mohammedan, cheating cha- 
racter of, 8 

Hippo})otami, 571 

Honey-bird, 337 ; habits of, 353 

Hon^a, or tribute, 55, 395 

Horner, Pere, 65 

Hosmer, Dr., 679 

Hunter's Paradise, the, 336 

Hysenas, 194, 528 

Ibrahim bin Eashid slain, 293 

Imbiki, 101 

Insects of Central Africa, 530 

Itage village, 373 

Jackals, 528 

Jackson, Gen, Andrew, advice of, 374 

Jako, employ^ of the Expedition, 67, 

165 
Jesuit Mission at Bagamoyo, 20, 43 
Jiweh la ISiiiga district, 209 
Johari, dragoman, 27, 37 ; engaged to 



conduct the caravan convcyiiig 
stores to Dr. Livingstone ^s far as 
the Kingani, 666 

Jumah, 349 

Jungle of Msuwa, its horrors, 648 

Kabogi, Cape, 511 

Kabogo Mountain, singular pheno- 
menon of, 400 

Kadetamare, or Misonghi, village, 144; 
favourable situation of, as mission 
field, 234: 

Kahirigi, boma of, 394 

Kaif-Halek or " How-do-ye-do," this 
letter-carrier, 317 

Kalulu, the boy- slave, 303, 352 

Kamolondo Lake, 450 

Kamyenyi, 635 

Kanengi River, 394, 397 

Kaniyaga village, 630 

Kanjee, 60 

Kanyamabengu River, 507 

Kauyenyi, 190 

Kaole village, 225 

Kaseh, a myth, 260 

Kasera ridge, 364 

Katanga, copi)er mines of, 464 

Kataiigara Islands, 506 

Kaviinba, 507 

Kema Kaguru Mountains, 231 

Khamis bin Abdullah, 267 ; his death, 
293 

Kliamisi, desertion of, 101 ; his nar- 
row escape, 107 ; flogged for deser- 
tion, 108; precis of chaiacter, 349 

Klionze, remarkable globes of foliage 
at, 633 

Kiala, chief, 381 

Kibwe, Mount, 245 

Kigoma Bay, 479 

Kigondo, chief, 137 

Kigwa, 220 

Kigwena River, 488 

Kikoka village, 81, 82 

Kikuma River, 488 

Kilvva, port of, 225 

Kingani River, 78, 81 ; area drained 
by, 226 ; Valley, 77 



726 



INDEX. 



Kingaru village, 94 
Kingwere, the canoe paddler, 79 
Kiora village, 144 ; Peak, 110, 112 
Kirk, Dr., Mr. Stanley's introduction 
to, 12 ; his nonchalance in regard 
to Dr. Livingstone, 14 ; deprecia- 
tory remarks, 15 ; his interview 
with Speke's "Faithfuls," 28; 
tardy visit to Ijagamoyo in refer- 
ence to the " Livingstone caravan," 
64 ; wish that the author should 
explore the Rufiji route, 83 ; ohjec- 
tion to horses in the interior, 99 ; 
congratulates the author on his 
success, 662 ; decides as to the sale 
of part of the stores for Livingstone, 
664 ; advises Mr. O. Livingstone not 
to go on to his father, 673 ; letter 
to the author on securing an effi- 
cient leader from Seyd Burghash, 
674 ; his refusal to act for Dr. Li- 
vingstone except in an ofiBcial ca- 
pacity, 675 

Kirondo, chief, 569 

Kirurumo village, 209 

Kisabengo, chief, a minor Theodore, 
116 

Kiscmo village, 104 ; belles of, 105 

Kisuka village, 495 

Kisigo Eiver, 235 

Kisunwe Pdver, 488 

Kitanda or bedstead, 85 

Kiti defile, 203 

Kitunda Cape, 486 

Kiwyeh, Sultan of, 198 ; village, 630 ; 
population of, 631 

Kiwrima Valley , 113 

Kolquall or candelabra tree, 161, 
g24 

Koiiduchi village, 225 

Krapf and Rebman, Messrs., 516 

Kudu, 341 

Kukumba Point, 508 

Kulabi, 639 

Kusuri or Konsuli, 209 

Kwala or Norih Gombe River, 521 

Kwala Mtoni, 216 

Kwikurkm-a, 261 



Ladies' tea-parties, early origin of, 

546. 
Lares and Penates of the Wazavira, 

367 

Leopard of Central Africa, 528 

Letter of Shaw, 145 ; of Farquhar, 
146 

Leukole, chief, 164; his account of 
Farquhar's death, 639 

Liemba, Lake, 447 

Limestone, pisolitic, 521 

Lincoln, Abraham, lake named after, 
by Livingstone, 451 

Lion and leopard, home of the, Freilig- 
rath's description of, 368 

Lion of Central Africa, 528 

Little Makata River, 230 

Liuche, valley of the, 407 

" Livingstone Cottage " at Mah^ (Sey- 
chelles), happy intercourse at, 679 

Livingstone, Dr., the author's first 
interview with, at Ujiji, 412 ; his 
anxiety for news, 414 ; the low ebb 
of his resources, 418; his early 
rising, 422 ; took the author for an 
emissary of the French Govern- 
ment, 423; his hard fare, 424; 
his sufferings and privations, 425 ; 
revival of his enthusiasm, 427 ; his 
guileless character, 428 ; his phy- 
sical appearance, 429; absurd re- 
port of his marriage, his general 
character and careful observations, 
430; sensitiveness of criticism, 431, 
amiable traits of his character, and 
his Spartan heroism, 432 ; his high 
spirits, inexhaustible humour, and 
retentive memory, 433 ; sincerity 
of his religion, 434 ; his Sunday 
services, 435 ; ability to withstand 
the African climate due to liis tem- 
perate life, 435 ; hisdetermii ation 
to complete his task, spite of all 
difficulties, 436 ; completeness of 
his discoveries, 437 ; summary of 
his experiences, 438 ; int rview 
with King Cazembe, 444; diffi- 
culty as to the Chambezi, 447 



INDEX. 



727 



discovery of Lalse Liemba, 447; 
Investigation of the Lnapula, 448 : 
intervention in behalf of Mahomed 
bin Sail repaid by base ingrati- 
tude, 448 ; exploration of Uguhha, 
449; sufferings at Bambarre, dis- 
covery of the Lualaba, description 
of the beauties of Moero scenery, 
450 ; admiration of Abraham Lin- 
coln, 451 ; his belief that the Lua- 
laba or Webb's Eiver is the true 
Kile, 452 ; his admission that the 
Nile sources have not been found, 
454; his opinion as to the account 
of Herodotus, 455; thwarted by 
the cowardice of his men, 464 ; 
return to Ujiji, dishonesty of Sherif, 
4G5; destitute condition of the 
Doctor, his complaint of the Zan- 
zibar people not sending him free- 
men, 466; his objection to the 
"doctoring" of his despatches at 
home, 467 ; his relations with the 
Royal Geographical Society, 469- 
471 ; improvement of his health from 
more generous diet, contemplated 
cruise on the Tanganika, 472 ; start 
from Ujiji, 479 ; liability to diar- 
rhoea, 483 ; manner of dealing with 
demands for honga, 486 ; loss of 
stores, &c., from Bombay's intoxi- 
cation, 487 ; his unwillingness to 
retaliate on the hostile natives, 
490; his tenderness in sickness, 

497 ; disturbed in bed hy his ser- 
vant Susi in a state of intoxication, 

498 ; his opinion that the Tanga- 
nika must have an outlet, 505 ; 
names the Kavunvweh islands the 
"New York Herald Islets," 510; 
his coolness at the hostility of the 
Wasansi, 512 ; calms them down 
by his gentle bearing and conver- 
sation, 513 ; his resolve to finish 
his task, 560 ; complaint of Dr. 
Kirk's sending only slaves, 561 ; 
resolves to accompany the author 
to Unyanyembe, 562 ; his sufler- 



ings on the road, 587 ; atMpokwa's 
village, 588 ; his value r.s a travel- 
ling companion, 590 ; stung by wild 
bees, 596 ; his qualifications as a 
traveller, 599 ; peaceful recollections 
of his wife's grave, his relation of 
incidents of the life of his son Ro- 
bert, 601 ; arrival at Ugundo, 004 ; 
letters from Dr. Kirk and home, 605; 
welcome to Unyanyembe, 607 ; \^ 
comfortable quarters and in pos 
session of stores, 608 ; wreck of the 
stores detained by Sayd bin Salim, 
612; in possession of four years' 
store of supplies, 613 ; his letter to 
Mr. Bennett, jun., 616; probable 
results of his perseverance in Afri- 
can discovery, 619 ; his last day 
with the author, C22; his inten- 
tions as to the future, 626 ; the 
parting farewell, 627 ; instructions 
to turn back any slave caravan sent 
to his relief, 663 

— — , Mr. Oswald, introduction to, 
655 ; equipment of his proposed ex- 
pedition, 672 ; determines to resign, 
by Dr. Kirk's advice, 673 

, Pvobert Moffatt, incidents of his 

life, 601 

, Mr. T. S., testimony of, to the 

genuineness of the Despatches from 
his father, 615 

Lizard, large, 482 

Loajeri River, 536 

Loeki or Lomani River, 451 

Lualaba or " Webb's River " of Liv- 
ingstone, 450 ; thought by him to 
be the true Nile, 452 

Luapula River, 448 

Lubilash River, 452 

Ludha Damji, 37 

Lufira River, 451 

Luhanga Beak, 493 

Lukomo village, 388 

Luvumba Cape, 511 



Mabruki, cruel treatment of; 2u j 34? 



728 



INDEX, 



Mabunguru Nullah 205 ; River, 
233 

Madedita, 213 

Magala, Mutwaro ox, 494 

Maganga, 86, 94, 100 

Magimda Mkali, 201- 

Mahommed bin Sali, his release by- 
Li vingstcne fnd subsequent in- 
gratitude, 4't3 

Maizun, Mons., 637 

Makata Valley, 127 ; River, 136, 645 ; 
Plain, 641 

Makololo race, extinction of, 542 

Makunibi, chief, 385 

Malagash Inlet, 16, 17 

Malagarazi River, 381, 537 

Manyuema country, people of, 459 ; 
the El Dorado of the Arabs, 460 ; 
sought as slaves, 464 

• tribe, clever weapon manufac- 
turers, 557 

Mapanga, 635 

Marefu, 355 

Marenga Mkali, 162, 172, 638 

Masangi, 277 

Mnsika, or rainy season, 46, 95, 123, 
138, 040 

Matamombo, 162 

Mazitu, marauding propensities of, 
444 

Mbawnla, species of antelope, 366 

Mbembu, or forest peach, 356, 375 

Mbengerenga River, 230 

Mbcgu-tree, 523 

Mdaburu lUver, 233, 630 

Medical appliances used by the na- 
tives, 534 

Medicine for daubing warriors, 280 

Metals known to the tribes of Central 
Africa, 533 

Mfuto, Eastern, 278 

Mganga, medicine-man of Unya- 
mwezi, 543 

Mgongo Tcmbo, or " Elephant's 
Back," 211 

Mgwana, 107 

Mikiseh, 113 

y-on-T-i, Mutware of Kimenyi, 388 



Mirambo, 280; defeated afc Mfulo, 

304 
Misonghi, deserted village, 366 
Mizanza, 191 

Mkambaku range of Speke, 226 
^Ikoia tree, 523 
Mkurongo tree, 523 
Mkuti River, 404 
Mkuyu, gigantic sycamore, 327 
Moero Lake, 447; beauty of the 

scenery, 450 
Mohammed bin AbduUa slain, 293 
Mohammed bin Gharib, 570 
Monkeys, troop of, 370 
Morris, Hon. B. J., 79 
Mpokwa River, 367 
]\Iponda, chief, 441 
Mpwapwa, its fruitfulness, 163; 

Mountains, 154, 166 
Mrera, chief, 358 

, warriors of, 359 

Mrima, portion of country so called, 

224 
Msagara, youthful, the beau-ideal of 

African savage, 248 
Msuwa, 102 
Mtamba sycamore, gigantic size of, 

522 
Mtemi, chief, 333 
Mud-fish, 216 
Mu;:ere River, 496 
Mugeyo village, 493 
Mugihewa territory, 500 
Mukamba, chief, 496 
Mukondoku, chief, 032 
Mukondokwa Range, 151 ; Pass, 230, 

642; River, 151, 230, 1; feeders 

of, 231 
Mukimgu, 486 
Mukunguru, African intermittent 

fever, 86, 119, 130, 325 
Munieha, 203 
Muniyi Usagara, 151 
Musa, chief of the Johanna men, 442 
Murembwe Cape, 489 ; Point, 490 
Muscat Arahs of Zanzibar, 6 
Mussoudi, the Diwan's account of an 

extraordinary flood, 047 



INDEX, 



729 



Musunya Lake, 399 

Muzimu Island, 482,493 

Mvule tree, 524 

Mvumi village, 641 

Mwaru, 357 

Myombo tree, 126 

Mussoud bin Abdullah, 266 

Mussoudi, 109 ; beautiful prospect at, 

no 

" Nazi-Moya " at Zanzibar, 5, 13 

Negroes of Zanzibar, 9 ; character of, 
10 

New, Rev. Charles, introduction to, 
659 ; his accouat of the collapse of 
the English I\clicf Expedition, 615 

« New York Herald " Islets, 510 

Ngaraiso village, 030 

Nghwhalah Hiver, 521, 630 

Nguru Peak, 151, 153 

Niamtaga, 404 

Niasanga village, 482 

Niongo, 357 

Nondo, Speke's runaway, 214 

Nullahs, description of, 232 

Nyabigma island, 484 

Nyambwa, 186 

Nzoe, antelope of Siieke, 366 

"Omar," Mr. Stanley's watch dog, 

85 ; death of, 162 
Pallah buck, 341 
Peach tices, wild, 535 
Penibeia Pereh, Sultan, 184, 187 
Perpusilla, the, 337, 529 
Piaggia, the Italian traveller, 453 
Pisolitic limestone, 94 
Plantains, toddy made from, 525 
Pottery, native, of the Wazavira, 367 

Queen Victoria, letter conveying the 
thanks of Her Majesty and the 
announcement of the Royal pre- 
sent, 616. 

Rawlinson, Sir Henry, 685, 687, 692 
Ras Shangani, " Sandy Point," 13 
Kehenneko village, 142, 641 



Reptiles of Central Africa, 63o 

Rocky Mountains and East African 
chain compared, 246 

Rosako village, 84 

Royal Geographical Society, their 
relations with Dr. Livingstone, 
467; leavened with Cooleyism, 
469 ; their conduct towards th«» 
author, 683 ; their censure of the 
"Search and Rtlief Expedition*' 
undeserved, 688 ; its collapse due 
to their neglect in issuing instruc- 
tions contingent on the author's 
success, 690 

Rua country, 449 ; people, 459 

Rubeho Slopes, 151 ; Peak, 167 

Rubuga, 219 

Rudewa lUver, 140 

Ruiiji, or Ruhwha River, 235 

Rugufu Lake, 400; River, 376, 536 

Ruhinga, chief, 501 

Rusizi River, 495 ; problem of, 476 
delta of, 500 

Saadami, port of, 225 
Said bin Majid, 414 
Salim bin Rashid, 114 
Saline lagoons, oiigin of, 232 
Sultana of Simbamwenni, 116, 131, 

132 
Sami-sami, red beads, 357 
Sawahili, meaning of the term, 224 
Sayf, son of Ali, slain, 293 
Sayd bin Salim's house, 258 
Selim, interpreter, 70 

, the Arab boy, 351 

Sitting on Pombe, 189 

Sentakeyi, Cape, 493 

Shaw, J. W., 26, 32, 39, 66, 70, lib, 

139, 152, 157, 278, 305, 315 ; leaves 

the Expedition, 321 
Shamba Gonera, or, "Gonera's 

Field," good disposition of the 

Indian widow towards the whites ; 

ai)pearance of the place, tratie, &c., 

75 
Sheikh Sayd bin Salim, 266, 268, 612 
• Hamed, 188 



730 



iJWEX. 



Sheikh Ilassid, 22 

Khamis bin Abdullah, 266 

bin Nasib, 266, 297 

Sultau bin Ali, 266 

Thani, 162, 178 

Sherif, Dr. Livingstone's servant, dis- 
honesty of, 465 

Shiza, 220 

Sigungwa, 575 

Shrubs, &c. of Central Africa, 526 

Simbamwenni, 115 ; desolation of, by 
flood, 646 

Sultana of, 120, 131, 132 

Simba, ruler of Kasera, 364 

Simbo, 228, 645 

Khambi, 126 

Simeon Price, Livingstone's servant, 
443 

Sing we, a plum-like fruit, 472 

Slave-trade, 225, 244 

Slave-gang, chained, 104 

Small-pox, terrible scourge of East 
and Central Africa, 533 

Smoking among the Wanyamwezi, 
548 

Sofi beads, 473 

Somalis, 9 

Soor Hadji Palloo, 50, 51, 52, 55, 56, 
57, 100 

Soud, the Arab, 269 

, son of Sayd Inn Majid, 266 

bin Sayd, his attack on Wilyan- 

kuru, 282 ; his death, 283 

Speke, Capt., 227, 517 ; his "Faith- 
fuls," 27 ; treatment of " Bombay " 
by, 28 ; error of, as to altitude of 
Tanganika, 466 

Stanley, Mr., start from Bombay, 1 ; 
landing at Zanzibar, hospitable re- 
ception by Capt. Webb, 3 ; im- 
pressions of the city, 4 ; interview 
with Dr. Kirk, 12 ; organization of 
the expedition, 21 ; visit to the 
Sultan, 36 ; departure from Zanzi- 
bar, 40 ; landing at Bagamoyo, 41 ; 
troublesome experiences, 47 ; visit 
to the " Livingstone caravan," 63 ; 
interview with Dr. Kirk, 65 ; pre- 



parations for departure into the 
interior, ^^ ; difficulties with em- 
ployes, 67; chase after a thief, 
despatch of four caravans, 68; 
apology for egotism, 69 ; de})arture 
of the fifth caravan, led by himself, 
70; members composing it, 71; 
outfit, 72 ; the start, first camp. 
Shamba Gonera, 73, 75 ; crossing 
the Kiugani, 78; hippopotami 
shooting, 80 ; Kikoka village, 82 ; 
map of Bagamoya region, 83 ; halt 
at Rosako, 84 ; " Omar," watch- 
dog, missing, 85 ; formidable num- 
ber of insects, the tsetse-fly, 87- 
90; game hunting, 91; difficulty 
of penetrating an African jungle, 
92 ; camp at Kingaru, 94 ; death 
of the grey Arab horse, and ofience 
given by its interment, 96 ; inter- 
view with the king of Kingaru, 97 ; 
loss of the remaining horse from 
cancer, 99 ; desertion and sick- 
ness, 100; appearance of Ma- 
ganga's caravan, 100 ; march to 
Imbiki, 101 ; reach Msuwa, perils 
of the jungle, 102 ; astonishment 
of the chief, 103; chained slave- 
gang, 104 ; halt at Kisemo, 104 ; 
belles of, 105 ; narrow escape of 
Khamisi, 107 ; flogged for deser- 
tion, 108 ; arrival of Wangwana 
caravan with file of ' 11 eralds,' &c., 
108 ; visit of Kisemo's daughters, 
109; Mussoudi, 109; beautiful 
prospect, 110 ; cross the Un^eren- 
geri. 111 ; start for Mikeseh, 112 ; 
Ulagalla and Muhalleh, 113 ; over- 
take Maganga's caravan, meet with 
Selim bin Kashid, news of Living- 
stone, 114 ; pass town of ISimba- 
mwenni, 115; its fortifications, 116; 
curiosity of the inhabitants, 117; 
four days' halt and overhaul of the 
luggage, 118 ; attack of ague, 119 ; 
visit of ambassadors of the Sultana 
of Simbamwenni, 120; wretched 
encampment gya the Ungerengeri, 



INDEX, 



7IS 



124; difficulty of crossing the 
river, 125 ; Simbo Khambi, Bun- 
der Salaam, the cook, flogged for 
pilfering, 126; Makata Valley, 
127 ; loss of Bombay's equipage, 
123 ; assistance of the Sultana of 
Simbamwenni in its recovery, 131 ; 
her api)ropriation of tribute claimed 
as due, 132 ; intervention of Sheikh 
Thani, 132 ; difficulties of the Ma- 
kata Valley, 135 ; escape and cap- 
ture of Kingaru, 137 ; emerge from 
the swamp Makata, attack of dy- 
sentery, 141 ; halt at Kehenneko, 
142 ; ascent of the Usagara Moun- 
tains, 143 ; Mukondokvva Valley 
and River, 144 ; Kiora, 144 ; camp 
at, illness of Farquhar, 147 ; unsatis- 
factory state of his caravan, 148 ; 
ford of the Mukondokwa River, 
151 ; Madete, Lake of Ugombo, 
153 ; revolt of Shaw and Farqu- 
har, 157 ; Shaw's penitence and 
subsequent attempt at assassina- 
tion, 160 ; departure from Ugumbo, 
161 ; camp at Matamombo, death 
of the dog " Omar," Sheikh lliani 
in clover at Mpwapwa, 162 ; a 
good breakfast and dinner, 163 ; 
Farquhar left to be nursed, 164; 
twelve pagazis engaged, 166 ; 
abundance of earw igs, 169 ; white 
ants, 170 ; Chunyo, badness of the 
water, 172 ; attack of fever, 173 ; 
Ugogo, 174; frantic conduct of 
the population, 176 ; West Mvumi, 
177 ; the Sultan's exorbitant de- 
mand of Konda, 178; Matamburu, 
reasonableness of the Sultan of, 
181 ; Bihiwana, 182 ; attack of in- 
termittent fever, 183 ; Kididimo, 
1 ileak asf)ect and bad water, 184 ; 
Nyambwa, demonstrativeness of 
the ])eople, 186; Mizanza, 191; 
benetit from quinine, visit from 
the Sultan, 192; Little Mukon- 
doku, 194; Mukondoku Proper, 
195; commotion and cowardice, 



196; uproar in the camp, 197; 
debate as to route, 199 ; threatened 
mutiny, 202 ; Munieka, 203 ; Ma- 
bunguru Nullah, 205; Unyam- 
bogi, 206; Kiti, 207; Msalalo, 
Ngaraiso, 208; Kirurumo, greet- 
ing from the villagers, inter- 
view with Sultan bin Mahommed, 
209 ; Kusuri, visit from SheiUh 
Hamed, and party of elephant- 
hunters, 210; halt at Mgongc 
Tembo, 211; Nghwhalah Mtoni, 
abundance of sweet water, 212 ; 
Madedita, tsetse-fly troublesome, 
213 ; reach Unyamwezi territory 
at P^astern Tura, cultivated region, 
213; Nondo, Speke's runaway, 
214; Central Tura, attempted 
night robbery, 214; a thief shot 
dead, pass Western Tura, 215; 
Kwala Mtoni, mud-fish, illness of 
the tailor, Abdul Kader, 216; 
wishes to give up his post, 217; 
Rubuga, desolation of, since Bur- 
ton's visit, 219; meeting with 
Amer bin Sultan, 219; Kigwa, 
wasted condition of, 220; Shiza, 
pastoral aspect of, visit from the 
Sultan, 220; rejoicings in camp 
on reaching Unyanyembe territory, 
221 ; geography and ethnography 
of the country traversed, 223-257 ; 
life in Unyanyembe, 258; break- 
fost and gossip with Sayd bin 
Salim, 259; Kazeh, a myth, 260; 
leave Kwikuru, 261 ; in comfort- 
able quarters, 262 ; visit from the 
Tabora Arab magnates, 264 ; Ta- 
bora, chief Arab settlement in Cen- 
tral Africa, 266 ; attend a council 
of war, 267 ; feast at the close of the 
council ; return to Kwihara, 271 ; 
the Livingstone caravan's halt of 
100 days, 272 ; attack of fever, 273 ; 
preparations for the march, 275; 
warlike demonstration, 277 ; Fast- 
ern Mfuto, illness of Shaw, per^ 
sonnel of the army, 278 ; Umanda, 



732 



INDEX, 



medicine daubing, war harangue, 
280; Zinibizo, attack on the vil- 
lage, 281 ; fate of Soud bin Sayd 
and his Arabs, 283; retreat and 
stormy councils of war, 284 ; fur- 
ther retreat of the Arabs to Tabora, 
288 : serious position of the Expe- 
dition, 289 ; intelligence of Living- 
stone, 290 ; news of death of Far- 
quhar, 291 ; illness of iShaw, attack 
of Mirambo on Tabora, 292; 
Khaniis bin Abdullah, &c., slain, 
293 ; preparations for Mirambo's 
threatened attack on Kwihara, 
295 ; visit to Sheikh bin Nassib, 
297; retreat of Mirambo, 298; 
determination to lead a flying ca- 
ravan to Ujiji, 299 ; apathy of 
Shaw, 300; visit to 'J hani bin Ab- 
dullah, arrival of letters, 301 ; 
death of Barusi, evil reports by the 
Arabs, 302 ; present of a boy- 
slave, 303; defeat of Mirambo at 
Mfuto, 304 ; nursing experiences, 
305 ; farewell feast at Unyanye- 
mbe, 307 ; march to Ujiji com- 
menced by southern route, 310; 
list of '' braves " of the Expedition, 
311 ; Bombay's tender passion, 
313 ; the start, 314 ; Shaw shows 
the white feather, 315 ; Kinya- 
mwezi village, attack of fever, 316 ; 
arrest of runaways, threat of slave- 
chain, 317; Ineseuka, further de- 
sertions, punishment, withdrawal 
of Abdul Kader the tailor, 318 ; 
sickness in camp, adverse appear- 
ances, 319 ; Kasegara, rejoicings 
at 319 ; Kikandu, Shaw's by-play, 
320 ; his withdrawal, 321 ; beauty 
of Unyamwezi forest scenery, 322 ; 
Ugunda, 323; Benta, 324; Ki- 
kuru, the mukunguru or fever, 
325 ; camp at Ziwani, 327 ; gi- 
gantic sycamore, 328 ; Manyara, 
cultivated region, 331 ; difficulty 
of buying provisions, 332 ; visit of 
Mtemi, 333; his astonishment at 



the author's medicine-chest, 3S4; 
Gombe River, its beautiful neigh- 
bourhood, 336; narrow escape 
from a crocodile, suspicious-looking 
natives, 339 ; a peaceful camp- 
scene, 340 ; symptoms of revolt at 
starting onwards, 343 ; murderous 
aspect of Asmani and Mabruki, 
344; Bombay and Ambari in 
chains, the march resumed, sketch 
of the principal men of the Expe- 
dition, 348 ; Ziwani (pool), water- 
less condition of, 352 ; Tongoni, 
abundance of honey-birds, 353; 
Marefu, rumours of war in our 
front, 355 ; march through a forest 
abounding with peach-trees, 356 ; 
Utende village, 356 ; Mwaru, 357 ; 
supix)sed report of Livingstone, 
Mrera's district, wild elephants, 
358; Selim falls ill, 359; start 
from Mrera north-westward, 361 ; 
confidence restored in the camp, 
remarkable ant-hills, 362 ; camp 
in the jungle, 363 ; embassy from 
Simba, 364 ; Uzavira, ruined neigh- 
bourhood of, 366 ; Misonghi, 366 ; 
Mpokwa liiver, deserted village 
near, 367 ; Mtambu stream, its 
beauty, 368 ; attack by a leopard, 
369 ; shot at a wild boar, 370 ; 
proximity of lions, 371 ; Itaga 
village, beginning of troubles, 373 ; 
shortness of provisions, 377 ; 
" Welled Nzogera's " village, abun- 
dant supplies, 379 ; crossing a 
marsh, 380 ; reach the Malagarazi, 
heavy exaction of the chief Kiala, 
381 ; island of Ihata, fresh de- 
mands for ferriage, 382; donkey 
seized by crocodile, 383 ; Uvinza, 
news of Livingstone, 384 ; depar- 
ture from the Malagarazi, 385; 
country of Uhha, halt at Kawan- 
ga, 386 ; halt on the Pombwe 
stream, 388 ; interview with Mion- 
vu, 389 ; exorbitant demand of 
honga, 392; cross the Kanengi 



INDEX, 



798 



&t""P, S?\ ? iLore claims of honga, 
#»6; UpArturo by stealth, 396; 
K^na-O River, 397; cross the 
]l.\»:"igl, CA ni .g a sable shrew, 398 ; 
.os.ko l^-:.simya, 399; Riigufu 
R:\ar, £".£': ogo Mountain, singular 
r;e^\.l::i8^o■l of, 400; Sunuzzi 
6aejm, iO.l ; enter Ukaranga, 402 ; 
beauty of the landscape, 403 ; 
Mkute River, Niamtaga, alarm of 
the people, 404 ; first view of the 
Tanganika, 406; Port of Ujiji in 
view, 407 ; salute announcing the 
approach of the caravan, 408; 
mecstrng o'ith Susi, the ^erv^nt of 
Dr. Livingstone, 409 ; excitement 
of the inhabitants, 410; appear- 
ance of the Doctor, 411 ; the intro- 
duction, 412 ; conversation, 413 ; 
the over-due letter-bag, 365 days 
from Zanzibar, 414 ; budget of 
news, 415 ; intercourse with Li- 
vingstone, 420, et seq. ; suggestions 
as to his future course, 477 ; start 
with Livingstone for cruise on the 
Tanganika, 479 ; pass Bangwe Is- 
land, 479 ; wooded hills of l>emba, 
480 ; camp at Niasanga, 482 ; Ny- 
abigma Island, 484 ; Mukungu, 
486 ; loss of valuables from Bom- 
bay's intoxication, 487 ; hostile de- 
monstrations of the Bikari people, 
490 ; bivouac on the shore disturbed 
by natives, 491 ; round Cape Sen- 
takeyi, and sleep at Mugeyo, 493 ; 
Magala, hospitality of the people, 
visit of the Mutware of, 494 ; ru- 
mours of wars, 494 ; Kisiku, native 
report as to the Rusizi River, 495 ; 
Mugere, delta of the, 496 ; visit 
Mukamba, attacked by fever and 
experience Livingstone's tender- 
ness, 497 ; Mugihevva territory on 
the delta of the Rusizi, 500 ; visit 
of the chief Ruhinga, his geo- 
graphical information, 501 ; explo- 
ration of the Rusizi debouchure, 
6(H; Eukumba Point, enchanting 



scenery near, 508 , halt at Bemba^ 
superstition of the Wajiji, 509: 
' New York Herald Lslets,' so named 
by Livingstone, 510; Cape Lu- 
vumba, hostile aspect of the Wa- 
sansi, 511 ; return to Ujiji, domestic 
and foreign news, 515 ; geographical 
and ethnographical notes, 514 et 
seq. ; preparations for march to 
Unyanyerabe, 562 ; attack of fever, 
564 ; Christmas Day at Ujiji, 565 , 
the departure, 566 ; meet with 
Mohammed bin Gharib, 570; Si- 
gimga, beautiful aspect of, 574; 
spoit at Urhiiba, o75, hooowaixl 
bound, 576 et seq.; an elephant 
herd, 581 ; Ukawendi, luxuriance 
of its vegetation, 584 ; painful 
march to Imrera, 586 et seq.; a 
giraffe shot, 593 ; severe attack of 
fever, the Doctor's prescription, 
594 ; the caravan attacked by bees, 
595 ; Mrera, meeting with caravan 
sent by Sayd bin Ha bib, exchange 
of news, 596 ; encounter a lion, 
600; Ugundu, the deserter Ham- 
dallah retaken, 604 ; receipt of 
letters and newspapers, 605 ; wel- 
come to Unyanyembe, 607 ; stores 
found tampered with, 610 ; a second 
Christmas celebration, 611 ; four 
years' store of supplies turned over 
to the Doctor, 613; commission to 
enlist at Zanzibar fifty freemen as 
his carriers, 615 ; farewell dance of 
natives, 620; choragic adieu of the 
Wanyamwezi, 621 ; last night with 
Livingstone, 622 ; the last walk in 
his company, 625; the farewell, 
627 ; a letter from the Doctor, 628 ; 
Ngaraiso, hostility of the Wa- 
kimbu, 630; Ugogo, warlike de- 
monstrations, 631 ; march of war- 
riors arrayed for the fight, 632; 
Khonze, determined mode of deal- 
ing with the chief successful, 633 ; 
Kan:yenyi, cordial rcce[»tiou by 
the Msagira of, 634; MaDanga, 



734 



INDEX. 



hostile demonstration, 636; asked 
to act as rain-maker, 637 ; Kiilabi, 
experience of a *' peppo," 638 ; 
Marenga Mkali, 639; Mukon- 
dokwa valley, experience of the 
Masika, 640; Makata plain, bat- 
tling with the floods, 641 ; Mviimi 
village, fighting with mosquitoes, 
641 ; the Doctor's despatches in 
danger, 642 ; a perilous ford, 644 ; 
ten daj's' camp at Rehenneko, diffi- 
culties of the march to the Makata 
Eiver, 645 ; arrive at Simbo, cross 
the Unkerengere, and reach Sim- 
bamwenni, its desolated aspect, 
646; Ulagalla, extraordinary de- 
vastation by flood, 647; Msuwa, 
horrors of its jungle, 648 ; Kingaru 
Hera, news of the Zanzibar storm, 
649; Eosako, welcome consign- 
ment from the American Consul, 
649 ; ill-natured criticisms, infor- 
mation as to the "Livingstone 
Search and Eelief Expedition," 
650; Kingwere's ferry, a watery 
waste, four miles broad, 651 ; wel- 
come to Bagamoyo, 652 ; meeting 
with Lieut. Henn, 653 ; introduc- 
tion to Mr. Oswald Livingstone, 
655 ; the march ended, 657 ; wel- 
come at Zanzibar, the American 
Consul and Rev. C. New, 658 ; 
congratulation of Lieut. Dawson, 
discussion as to his resignation, 
599; visit from Dr. Kirk and 
Bishop Tozer, 662 ; change in the 
author's appearance on his return, 
663 ; conversation with Lieut. 
Hem, 664 ; explanations from the 
He? C. New, 665, e^ .<e(7. ; prepa- 
."stions for Mr. 0. Livingstone's 
Expedition; 672 ; his resignation, 
673; soltcticn of an Arab leader, 
674 • parting, with Lieut. Dawson, 
671 1 'BCaSsion with Dr. Kirk on 
the misurtleT standing with Living- 
jjtcnt, 87& ; farewell to old travel- 
^ix^g companions, 666 ; departure 



froa. Zanzibar in the. * Africa,' 
677; reach Seychelles, a month's 
delay at Mahe, agreeable inter- 
course at "Livingstone Cottage,'' 
678; arrival at Aden and Mar- 
seilles, 679 ; a few remarks as tc 
the English Press, 679; and the 
Royal Geographical Society, 683; 
defence of the English Expedition 
against the censure of the Council, 
689 ; honor rendered to the author 
by the Royal Geographical Society, 
691 ; award of the Victoria Medal, 
692. 

Sultan bin Mohammed, 209 

Sultan of Zanzibar, Mr. Stanley's in- 
terview with, 37 

Sunuzzi stream, 401 

Sunset at Ujiji, magnificence of, 539 

Susi, Dr. Livingstone's servant, 409, 
498 

Swaruru, Sultan, 196 

Sycamore, gigantic, 327 

Syed Burghash, Sultan of Zanzibar, 
37,38 

Tabora, 264 

Tagamoyo, massacre of the Wama* 
nyuema by, 463 

Tamarind-trees, 525 

Tamarisks, 525 

Tanganika Lake, first visit to, 406 ; 
cruise on, with Dr. Livingstone, 
479 et seq. 

Tarya Topan, integrity of, 9, 37, 50 

Tembe, the, 253 

Thani bin Abdullah, 266, 301 

, Sheikh, 132 

Thata Inland, 382 

Tongoni, 353 

Tozer, Bp., his residence at Zanzi- 
bar, 5, 19 ; his character and High 
Church practices, 19, 20 ; his con- 
gratulations at the author's success, 
663 

Trade, mode of conducting, in Africa, 
8 

Tsetse fly, 87, 213, 330, 354 



INDEX. 



73f 



Tura, Eastern, 213; Central, 214; 
Western or Tura Perro, 215 

Udoe, cones of, 94 

, picturesque aspect of, and war- 
like character of the people, 240 

" Uganga," or charm, 106 

Ugombo, Lake, 153, 231 ; Peak, 156 ; 
Plain, 167 

Ugiinda village, 323 

Uhha country, geological interest of 
538 ; king of, 387 

Ujiji, magnific^jnce of sunset at, 539; 
port of, 407 

Ukaranga territory, its beautiful as- 
pect, 403, 539 

Ukawendi country, 536, 537, 585 ; 
scenery of, 375 

Ukonongo, 535 

Ukwere, territory of, 226 

Ulagalla district, 113 

Ulimengo, absconding slave, 349, 592 

Unamapokera, friendliness of, 635 

Ungerengeri River, 105, 111, 123, 
647 ; rise of, 227 ; Valley, 110 

Urundi Mountains, 488 

Unyamwezi forest scenery, beauty of, 
322 ; meaning of the name, 516 ; 
territory, 213 

Unyambogi, 206 

Uplands of Africa, health and abun- 
dance in, 234 

Urimba, 575 

Uronga lliver, 230 

Urimba, camp at, 558 

Usagara Mountains, 126, 143 

Useguhha, teiTitory of, 226 

Utende village, 356 

Uvip.za, Suuthorn and Northern, 537 

Uwelasia I\i\rer, 575 

Uyanzi, Magunda Mkali, or " Hot 
Field,'' 257 

Uyoweh, Mirambo of, 267 

Uzavira, village in, 367 

Victoria Medal of the Royal Geo- 
graphical Society awarded to the 
author, 692. 



Wabembe, or Wavembe, tribe of can- 
nibals, 555 

Waganga or medicine men, 244 ; 
filthy war-potion concocted by, 295 

Wagogo tribe, 249 ; villages cf, 214 

Wagtails regarded as birds of good 
omen, 483 

Waguhha tribe, 384 

Wagunda tribe, 324 

Wahumba tribe, 195 

"Wait-a-bit" thorn, 525 

Wajiji tribe, 552 ; superstition, 509 

Wakimbu of Tura, rascality of, 2.14 

tribe, 208 ; villages of, 214 

Wakwere tribe, 238 

Wakonongo, 339 

Wamanyuema, fondness of, for mar- 
keting, 463 

Wami River distinct from the Kin- 
gani, 229 ; available for commerce, 
233 

Wangwana caravan, 108 

village, 219 

tribe, gormandizing of the, 342 

Wanyamwezi tribe, 9, 197; their 
superstitious aversion to antelope 
meat, 366 ; the Yankees of Africa, 
540 

War, council of, 267 

Warfare, tame mode of conducting, 
495 

Wa-Ruga-Ruga, 354 

Warundi tribe, 555 

W».y\wahili tribe, 9, 237 

V/a^^nsi or Basansi tribe, 511 

WftnBguhba territory and tribe, 114, 

Washensb^, 103, 104 

Wavinca tTib«, 385 ; greed of, 384 

Webb, Ci»pt. h\ R., U.S. Consul, his 

hospiW >y and courtesy, 3, 12, 17, 

37 
, IMr., of Nowstead Abbey, 451 : 

river named after him, 451 

, Mrs., 40 

Wagogo, cool impudence of the, 85 

WMuJe, port o^ 225 

WildenieBS, African more favourable 



73« 



INDEX. 



to the traveller than the populated 

country, 205 
Wild-boar, 372 
Wilyankuru, attack on, 282 
Wine, high value of, in the interior, 

25 

Zanzibar city, view of, from the bay, 
harbor, " Charley's " lodging-house, 
3 ; character of the streets and po- 
pulation, trade, " Nazi-Moya,*' 4; 
house of Bishop Tozer, mart of the 
interior, mode of commerce un- 
ehanged for ages, 5; population, 



11 ; filth and unhealthinesa of, 16^ 
inertness induced by, 17; Palac€ 
of the Sultan, 3G 

Island, misconceptions as to 

its character, 1 ; its aspect frcir 
the sea, 2 ; malarious climate, 16 

Zassi River and village, 483 

Zebra, 338 

Zimbizo, attack on the village, 281 

Zimmerman on the benefit of an tm- 
encumbered mind, 433 

Ziwa, or pond, 215 

Ziwani (pool), 327, 352 

Zogga, palm toddy, 487 



LEJ*'32 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS ^ 



029 990 413 1 





